I've just replaced the battery inside my 2006 XC70 alarm unit and this video was helpful - thanks SiRobb. A few quick points that might ease things for others: 1. Replacement battery pack: I searched on-line and found Varta 6/V250H (7.2V 250mA) mentioned as a direct replacement for my car. That information was correct and I bought that pack, which was the same manufacture and, more important, same size as the one removed. I used a modelling knife to remove the terminal connectors for the wiring from the original battery and then cleaned them up before soldering to the new battery. 2. To split open the original casing I decided not to use a Dremel (even with a plastic cutting disc) or a Stanley knife. Instead I used a modelling knife. First, I sanded down the seam between black and grey parts of the casing. Then, I carefully made a few runs around the seam line with a new blade in my knife to give a cut line. Once I had the groove to follow, I cut through the joint in short lengths. There are a couple of locating lugs on the inside of the long sides, which required a slightly deeper cut. This gradual approach provided a clean joint for reassembly. To reassemble I put a few dabs of Superglue around the joint before putting the two halves back together. Although the Superglue wouldn't be any good to reseal the whole joint, it does hold the casing together so that 2cm strips of tape (I used Gorilla tape) can be run around the outside of the seam. 3. The original battery holder had to be 'opened' to get the battery out. I did this by drilling through the grey plastic rivets at one end with a 3mm drill - I drilled right through the casing - and then breaking the joint between the casing and holder. The top strap of the holder is flexible and I could ease the battery out quite easily. After the new battery was installed, I used small round-head self-tappers with a bit of Araldite on the threads to resecure the holder strap to the casing. (The self-tapers were screwed through from the outside of the casing and into the holes drilled in the holder strap).
I've read about this procedure, but this is the first video I've found that details the complete repair. You did a great job explaining each step of the process, including the pitfalls. I'm fortunate that I have all of the tools on hand (including a Dremel and a hot glue gun.) Now I just have to catch a nice day and get dirty. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.
Just wanted to say many thanks for this. This fix worked great. As you said did struggle with the security bolt but as you said I stuck with it and it did finally loosen up. Used a hacksaw to separate the alarm and with careful use that worked perfectly and gave a neat job. Thanks again. Mike
Just another comment to say thank you. I've just completed this job after watching your video (although I replaced the alarm with a new one, rather than trying to repair the old). Alarm message now gone, sunroof working again, no need for any other magic to make this work. That security bolt is the only hard bit, but a did get it off by dremmeling a slot and using a screwdriver. Thanks for sharing!
Great info. Helps to know what the unit is and where it is. Only problem I had is that I couldn't find "7.2v door bell battery" . But after cursing at the computer for 40min. I found it. I found it under "7.2v 320mA car alarm battery" and the only search result i got "Volvo alarm battery 7.2v 330mA". So Now when that comes in I'll see how bad is my circuit board after 21 years of it's life
Dzięki za poświęcony czas, dobra robota. Dzięki tobie naprawiłem szyber dach. Syrena alarmu do wyrzucenia, akumulatorek eksplodował, płytka zalana kwasem, złom. Ale szyber działa , big thanks for you.
well done i have just bought a 07 v70 and this has happened after 1 month so this video is brilliant for the novice as are your others i have viewed many thanks for all your time and effort
Thank you Simon I have just done mine and your video was very helpful .My board luckily was ok as the battery had only recently started to leak. Old battery was putting out 1.6volts after 21 years quite suprising .
My board was pristine when I stripped it. Thought great I'm on to a winner. Fit new battery, took the time to melt the plastic back together so it was almost as new. Put it back together and hey presto exactly the same as before I touched it. It's not that hard to remove but the next time I'm just going to buy a new one. I can't be doing with the messing about. Just my luck.
Car running fine I wasnt sure if the siren unit imobillised the vehicle. Quite a lot of electronic components just to make a noise! On further inspection ( with specs on) the board is us so it will be a trip to the breakers. Thanks again for your help
No problem. The car is immobilised using a chip built into the ignition key and read by an antenna in the ignition barrel so unaffected by the siren module.
Opened it up just to find out that the battery leaked. The board basically started to melt but the connections seemed intact so I decided to clean the board thoroughly with loads of contact cleaner, I've put a £5 RC car battery in and voila! To my surprise it's been absolutely fine for more than 3 weeks already. Well chuffed with that but I keep in mind that it might die in the future due to that leak. But happy for now :)
thank you for this video. a lot of Volvo owners are happy today, because maybe most alarms will be working again, and also getting rid of that stupid pesty alarm system service light required to shut off. I own two Volvos, so I have to do this on both of these
If you do make a mess of cutting Parts like this open you can quite easily repair them I think using a 3d printer pen and gentle use of a low temp soldering iron can restore the casing appearance. I think most are made of ABS aren't they?.
Excellent video. Everything described in good detail for numpties like me. I wouldn't try to do this job at ground level, though - not with my back. I'll show the video to my mechanic and pay him the 2/6d labour to do it. How much to fit a car-lift in my garage?
I haven't had to do this surgery yet (and I refer to it as surgery early in this discussion for a reason) and continue to be astounded at poor packaging practices by many manufacturers. In your opinion, is there the option of simply drilling a hole and pull out the wires using a crochet hood (like they did to my vas deferens - and yes it hurt) to interrupt the wires to attach an external battery pack? It would entail less disassembly and easier to replace the battery in the next 10 years.
A nickel metal hydride battery, abbreviated NiMH or Ni-MH, is a type of rechargeable battery. The chemical reaction at the positive electrode is similar to that of the nickel-cadmium cell (NiCd), with both using nickel oxide hydroxide (NiOOH). see at 8.01 on the side of the battery.
Great video & easy to follow. I bought a standard alarm battery on fleabay for £12 (bargain) first before stripping out old unit. Great idea, but when I cut the old module open it was shot - the acid had rotted the connection pins. Am now trying to figure out if I can simply remove it altogether. It's a 2003 xc70, so not worth nicking.
Thanks for your comment. You can either leave it out completely or put it back and pull the alarm fuse to avoid the possibility of a parasitic drain. Both methods will result in a dash warning at startup and of course there may be insurance implications as your factory security is not working as designed so not something I can recommend.
@@sirobb fully acknowledged. Checked multiple forums, to be advised that leaving the unit out was not recommended (no explanation why, but assumed to relate to Insurance liability). I washed the c**p off the module with a fine brush & contact cleaner but it looks beyond saving; I removed the rotted battery & re-installed the unit. No knock-on problems noted other than the nuisance message remains. I'll put up with it until an opportunity for a working used unit turns up. It's a sad reflection on volvo that the replacements cost so much since it's obviously an inherent design flaw, but I guess that's life. Thanks for the comments & keep up the good work
OK, how does this alternative sound? Instead of replacing the original battery and then entombing it like the old one, just don't install one. Make the battery supply easily replaceable, as this will happen again and again. Solder some long leads to the correct battery terminals on the siren printed circuit board, mark the polarity, drill a hole in the siren's case, seal with RTV and lead the wires to a battery pack installed in the engine bay; five or six alkaline AA cells should do it. The cost should be about $15, depending on where you buy the parts.
Always great informative videos, thank you. My alarm siren has been opened, carefully but getting the six pack varta batteries for the module has been a problem...any advice would be most helpful. Regards,
sirobb Cheers mate. Final question (hopefully): How much space would you guess, do we have available? What would the maximum length of the battery be? I noticed you removed the old case, but how bit is the large case? (haven't removed mine yet to look at it) I found one battery on ebay that is 61mm long. Will it fit?
A local expert at a shop made a battery for me. He combined 4 "button cell" batteries (NiMH) into a battery pack and attached the leads (+/-) I think it is only 4.8 volts, but it has been working fine.
Time for me to try this now. My alarm triggers by itself but has no sound. Hope that means the battery is weak but still alive and not leaking... We'll see
@@Dennis-ud2nh You can pull the siren fuse or deactivate the sensors with the button on the lower central cluster before exiting the car to avoid false alarms in the meantime.
Yep that's the way to fix it . . just a note on attaching plastic case back together I and others use HOT GLUE GUN as this stops water ingress but good video
Cheers Gary. Yes I've heard about the glue gun before and there's two very good reasons why I didn't do the same. The first is I wanted to keep it low tech for people without many tools and secondly I don't have one, lol. To be honest, my gap was pretty large and I'm not sure the glue would have held on it's own without tape. I wish I'd taken longer to find a 3x2.4v pack as it would fit better and the case would be more snug but I guess it's not a beauty contest. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Hi on My 2002 Volvo v70 my Alarm siren circuit board was Black and completely covered in battery acid I tried wiring 6 AA Battery,s to the Alarm to see if it would work and it didn't work so i got a Used Alarm siren that worked and I recently fitted after having Alarm system service required for 8 Years I finally found a siren and the Used alarm siren works and there is no Alarm system service required on the dash and when I installed the alarm I did a configuration of the siren unit on Vida for the siren to work properly Take care
***** one more thing SHEAR SCREW volvo art# 986937 found on www.volvopartswebstore.com/products/Shear-screw/1195542/986937.html price $ 2.69 the shipping fee is to expensive "$48 to sweden
Took mine off and it's a mixture of destroyed circuits covered in battery acid, so threw it in bin , as new ones to expensive for a part that may never be used, used ones will be probably be in the same condition as car getting on bit 😔 just have to ignore the welcome message every switch on.
Great job in using existing parts and not buying new. A rechargeable battery would be great to avoid this problem....hey volvo are you listening? Stay green, recycle and sustain resources.
Great video...Thank you. My box holding the siren was under my windscreen wipers on my c30 as a matter of interest. Lastly, does your warning light go off automatically once you have replaced everything or do you have to reset the warning message if that makes sense. Many thanks
Any immobilizer dash message tips? Hit a curb with R front tire, broke control arm and axle and bent subframe. Dash airbag went off (no passenger in seat) and driver seatbelt tensioner fired. Replaced both front impact sensors, driver seat belt tensioner, dash airbag. Used an Autophix ES610 scan tool to reset faults. Car still won't start, immobilizer and security system service require dash messages. SRS Control module might need reprogrammed even though the scanner doesn't have any SRS faults. I thought I had a problem before with starting and some single wire on starter having corrosion? 2004 Volvo XC70 wagon. in PA , USA.
Autophix ES610 did reset SRS codes, my starter spade terminal wire fell off, hence no crank. Got it started this morning for the first time since the accident !! YAY
@@sirobb UPDATE: wired was popped off on the starter, the wire that gets corroded often on Volvos. And oddly after removing the siren to work on it, my sunroof now works !??!?
I always wanted to get rid of the alarm warning but now I know how much work it is I will accept it irritating me. I originally am from Congleton and my recorded voice sounds very much like yours
My idea is to find a cell phone charger feed it from the car battery then I think I it will be a long time solution but I will do some experiment first the cell phone charger is usually low voltage I think it could work.
Cell phone chargers operate at 5v but the idea of having a battery in the alarm siren module is to ensure that the alarm will sound even if a thief has tampered with the cars wiring or battery. Your 'fix' would leave the car open to increased chance of theft and I doubt a cell phone charger would last very long being permanently connected and exposed to outside temperatures.
You can plug it in and test it before securing everything and putting the wheel arch lining back in place but I don't know of a way to test it without at least removing the old one first.
@@sirobb Thanks SiRobb. What I meant was - can the siren unit be "bench" tested. I thought since it has its own battery (I put a new one) can it be tested? I tried jumping the 3 prongs every which way but no response. Not sure though if thats the way to do it.
Excellent video. I'm gonna tackle this project soon. Quick question though: Why does the alarm sound when you open the door with the key? Never knew it did that. Doesn't seem to make sense? Without the key I get it, but why does the car freak out when it is unlocked with the proper key?
The system needs a signal from a coded remote to activate the alarm and deadlocking so when you unlock using the blade, you could theoretically be anyone who has simply had a key blade only cut for the car so the alarm sounds as a precaution.....it's thinking, "I was set by a remote, so why am I being opened by just a key?" There's no way to scan the key in the door but there's a security antenna around the ignition barrel so when you put the key in the ignition, the system recognises the immobiliser chip and knows a bona fide key is being used and the alarm is silenced. Hope that explains things for you and thank you for the positive comment.
Great, but most times its a waste of time as the circuit board is junk, so new batteries are just useless, but at least unplugging the thing gets the sunroof working again. Why the sunroof is tied in with the alarm system is a mystery
The circuit board is only junked if you don't take action soon enough and you get the dash warning long before your battery has leaked everywhere so heed the warning and your board will be fine.
very good vid SiRobb. May sound like a stupid quiestion but what triggered you knowing you had a bad alarm? Other day my horn went off for no reason when inside the house and blew for 5 minutes till seemingly the fuse blew ( before i could find the book telling me which fuse to pull to stop it ) I have no horn now and it blew another fuse when i put another in. Is the horn unit one in the same as the security alarm or are they 2 seperate units? If one in the same does horn going off on its own consistent with haveing a bad unit ( horn or siren or one-in-the same). Thanks for another good vid
Hi great video have the alarm off my 2004 XC90 unfortunately circuit board has some acid damage! do you know if the car still runs without the siren I have tried the central locking etc all still working the only thing not working is the door warning the red alarm flashing light is also still working. Thanks Brian
Will removing this completely stop the alarm from going off? Im not worried about the error message just want it to stop going off in the middle of the night.
Thank for posting this very informative video, well done! My alarm service warning has been on for many years on my 2003 S80. Do you have any idea whether or not it will affect the sunroof or remote key fobs ultimately? Thanks again!
I have a siren fault and also a drain on the car battery of 540mA when the car is not in use.. The normal drain should only be 40mA. Could the alarm siren fault cause this?
I wouldn't guess with a parasitic drain so test the alternator diode pack first ruclips.net/video/dhf6IdBbE3Y/видео.html Then I would check everything using this method ruclips.net/video/ZCMQE2tgRSE/видео.html
Is this the same procedure for a XC90 D5 2004 reg car because I have the dreaded alarm service required message on my dash come up and it's been over a year so I need to get it fixed and the MAIN STEALER sorry I meant MAIN DEALER wants £425 to fix this issue. What a rip off.
I recently acquired a 2004 xc70 ..like the car - but this "alarm service warning" has been on and my mechanic told me to ignore it. However, 2-3 times in the past 2 months i've had issues with starting it up and needed a jump. I think the main battery is fine - could this issue be draining the main battery? If so, would it help to get a brand new strong battery ? or can I just take out the fuse so it doesn't drain. I'm nor concerned with the alarm system - the vehicle is 18 years old... thanks.
That was a consideration, but as beat up as this thing looks and with the few pennies I paid for it, theft is not real high on my list of worries. What I don't want is to activate the immobilizer. BTW, this all ensues from a non functioning remote entry that the dealer wants $300 to replace. I have nothing against alarms personally.
Sorry maybe I should have been clearer I mean with the siren unit disconected i have ordered a new battery and am waiting on arrival before I rule out the circuit board.
Hi there, i have ordered a new one from Volvo. Us it a case of remove the old, and replace with new without having to take it to the agents to set up on the computer ? They will take + - 5 weeks from order to delivery here in South Africa. Cannot use the remote to lock the car . I removed the fuse to cancel out the alarm and this disconnects remote for opening and locking .
@@sirobb I have been told my unit has arrived from Sweden. Word out there is it must programmed by the agents. I am replacing the module due to age and the normal problems related to batteries leaking and causing the alarm to go off at itermittent intervals. It has to coded is what I am told. I will have it at the agents next week. My son inlaw who works for them has told me this story which I find strange. Will let you know.
Thanks for the video. How did you remove the original security screw/bolt? also, what screw did you use when you put it back? I would think its not necessary to use a security type screw as long as you can match the thread. What do you think? Also, how did you secure the new battery?
The removal of the security screw is explained in the video and I just reused it. You can be as imaginative as you want with securing the battery depending on what size you manage to get. Duct tape, hot glue, battery boxes, plastic bags are all possibilities so long as it is ultimately weatherproof and secure.
is it possible to remove the alarm just by slackening off the 10mm nuts that hold the alarm unit into it's cage rather than hack away with a Dremmel at the security nut holding the cage the alarm sits in?
HI MIKE, quick question, if the battery is dead, will the lamp on the dash still blinking? Mine is not as well as no alarm sound whatsoever, and I was wondering what was the problem?
Hi SiRobb. Thanks for the video. I was wondering what would happen if you had cleaned your old board. Do you think that would solved the problem? (besides replacing the batteries). Thanks!
sirobb Thanks for the reply, it was just a thought as the "one" bolt is the one people are having trouble getting out ;-) I've not looked at my one yet as I've only had it a couple of days but it's one of the faults it has so I will be tackling it soon. I'll let you know how I get on. Thanks for taking the time to make the video, most appreciated
Martin Seaman The bolt isn't torqued very high at all so as long as you can get a grip on it, it'll undo with ease. A small pair of mole grips are ideal if you don't have a Dremel. There's an alternative video by a guy who removes his bumper and headlight to pull the siren out the front and leave the bracket in place.
sirobb It was just the 2 vid's that I saw both of them had to dremmel a slot in the bolt to get it off, I think that would be easier than removing the bumper though, we'll see what happens to my one ;-)
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I've just replaced the battery inside my 2006 XC70 alarm unit and this video was helpful - thanks SiRobb. A few quick points that might ease things for others:
1. Replacement battery pack: I searched on-line and found Varta 6/V250H (7.2V 250mA) mentioned as a direct replacement for my car. That information was correct and I bought that pack, which was the same manufacture and, more important, same size as the one removed. I used a modelling knife to remove the terminal connectors for the wiring from the original battery and then cleaned them up before soldering to the new battery.
2. To split open the original casing I decided not to use a Dremel (even with a plastic cutting disc) or a Stanley knife. Instead I used a modelling knife. First, I sanded down the seam between black and grey parts of the casing. Then, I carefully made a few runs around the seam line with a new blade in my knife to give a cut line. Once I had the groove to follow, I cut through the joint in short lengths. There are a couple of locating lugs on the inside of the long sides, which required a slightly deeper cut. This gradual approach provided a clean joint for reassembly. To reassemble I put a few dabs of Superglue around the joint before putting the two halves back together. Although the Superglue wouldn't be any good to reseal the whole joint, it does hold the casing together so that 2cm strips of tape (I used Gorilla tape) can be run around the outside of the seam.
3. The original battery holder had to be 'opened' to get the battery out. I did this by drilling through the grey plastic rivets at one end with a 3mm drill - I drilled right through the casing - and then breaking the joint between the casing and holder. The top strap of the holder is flexible and I could ease the battery out quite easily. After the new battery was installed, I used small round-head self-tappers with a bit of Araldite on the threads to resecure the holder strap to the casing. (The self-tapers were screwed through from the outside of the casing and into the holes drilled in the holder strap).
I've read about this procedure, but this is the first video I've found that details the complete repair. You did a great job explaining each step of the process, including the pitfalls. I'm fortunate that I have all of the tools on hand (including a Dremel and a hot glue gun.) Now I just have to catch a nice day and get dirty. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.
Thanks for taking the time to comment and I hope your fix goes well.
You dirty, dirty man.
Just wanted to say many thanks for this. This fix worked great. As you said did struggle with the security bolt but as you said I stuck with it and it did finally loosen up. Used a hacksaw to separate the alarm and with careful use that worked perfectly and gave a neat job. Thanks again. Mike
Just another comment to say thank you. I've just completed this job after watching your video (although I replaced the alarm with a new one, rather than trying to repair the old). Alarm message now gone, sunroof working again, no need for any other magic to make this work. That security bolt is the only hard bit, but a did get it off by dremmeling a slot and using a screwdriver. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for commenting and well done on your successful fix. 👍
Great info. Helps to know what the unit is and where it is. Only problem I had is that I couldn't find "7.2v door bell battery" . But after cursing at the computer for 40min. I found it. I found it under "7.2v 320mA car alarm battery" and the only search result i got "Volvo alarm battery 7.2v 330mA".
So Now when that comes in I'll see how bad is my circuit board after 21 years of it's life
Dzięki za poświęcony czas, dobra robota. Dzięki tobie naprawiłem szyber dach. Syrena alarmu do wyrzucenia, akumulatorek eksplodował, płytka zalana kwasem, złom. Ale szyber działa , big thanks for you.
A napisz proszę czy da się cały system alarmowy odłączyć tak żeby auto później odpalało?
Very usefull advice to change batteries ASAP before the batteries spoil the circuit board.. Thaank you very much, good job
quite common yes,, the battery last for 10 years depending of climate then it starts drypping acid inside siren,, done 4 volvos now
well done i have just bought a 07 v70 and this has happened after 1 month so this video is brilliant for the novice as are your others i have viewed many thanks for all your time and effort
Thank you Simon I have just done mine and your video was very helpful .My board luckily was ok as the battery had only recently started to leak. Old battery was putting out 1.6volts after 21 years quite suprising .
every online video should be as detailed as this! thanks!!
My board was still in good shape. I replaced the battery & everything works again. Thanks for the video!
Well done on your fix! 👍
Decent video of the battery replacement, well done sir !
Thank you.
My board was pristine when I stripped it. Thought great I'm on to a winner. Fit new battery, took the time to melt the plastic back together so it was almost as new. Put it back together and hey presto exactly the same as before I touched it. It's not that hard to remove but the next time I'm just going to buy a new one. I can't be doing with the messing about. Just my luck.
Car running fine I wasnt sure if the siren unit imobillised the vehicle. Quite a lot of electronic components just to make a noise! On further inspection ( with specs on) the board is us so it will be a trip to the breakers. Thanks again for your help
No problem.
The car is immobilised using a chip built into the ignition key and read by an antenna in the ignition barrel so unaffected by the siren module.
Brilliant video my daughters just bought the Volvo and there it was the warning light, looks a nice easy fix thanks very much for the information. Jim
Very, very well done. Thank you for posting this excellent instructional video.
No problem and thank you too. Your comment is appreciated. 👍
Thank you.Did mine!s60 d5 2005!
This happened to me about a week ago. Thanks for the information. Great video. This saved me a lot of time, troubleshooting and effort.
This has been an awesome video! Thank you bro, seriously!
Opened it up just to find out that the battery leaked. The board basically started to melt but the connections seemed intact so I decided to clean the board thoroughly with loads of contact cleaner, I've put a £5 RC car battery in and voila! To my surprise it's been absolutely fine for more than 3 weeks already. Well chuffed with that but I keep in mind that it might die in the future due to that leak. But happy for now :)
thank you for this video. a lot of Volvo owners are happy today, because maybe most alarms will be working again, and also getting rid of that stupid pesty alarm system service light required to shut off. I own two Volvos, so I have to do this on both of these
thank you very much for this tutorial- wen I opened mine up I saw that it was beyond repair so no chance of a cheap battery swap but oh well!
If you do make a mess of cutting Parts like this open you can quite easily repair them I think using a 3d printer pen and gentle use of a low temp soldering iron can restore the casing appearance. I think most are made of ABS aren't they?.
really very good - well done for all the detail
Great Video SiRobb- thank you for posting it.
Sei un vero conoscitore gerardo
My inner wing is held on by Torx screws - no drilling required with easy re-assembly. 2003 S60 D5
Excellent video. Everything described in good detail for numpties like me. I wouldn't try to do this job at ground level, though - not with my back. I'll show the video to my mechanic and pay him the 2/6d labour to do it. How much to fit a car-lift in my garage?
very very helpful vid mate , thanks for taking the time to share it with us
You're welcome and thanks.
Good video - many thanks......just got to wait for it to warm up a bit outside before I get started. Cheers.
You're welcome. I hope it all goes to plan.
Great step by step video i shall be attempting this weekend Great work!!
Thanks.
I hope the fix is a success.
Thank for lesson,-tomorrow I'll do the same with my XC-70, because message "alarm system service req appear"/ With this video it will much easy
Excellent video & very useful, thanks
Great vid mate
Awesome video, thank you sirobb.
No problem. Thanks for your support. 👍
SiRobb hello I have a Volvo s 80 I have this warning and engine service what's the best thing to recommend
Grimstorm is
I haven't had to do this surgery yet (and I refer to it as surgery early in this discussion for a reason) and continue to be astounded at poor packaging practices by many manufacturers. In your opinion, is there the option of simply drilling a hole and pull out the wires using a crochet hood (like they did to my vas deferens - and yes it hurt) to interrupt the wires to attach an external battery pack? It would entail less disassembly and easier to replace the battery in the next 10 years.
once again mate --- very useful
Thank you! Great narration and information.
Fantastic repair video. Thank you
Nice work. Thanks.
Thanks, will have to try this on my 2004 XC90
No problem. Easier access on an XC90 too. ruclips.net/video/WIuwPmWABho/видео.html
Thanks a lot, I will try your suggestion.
A nickel metal hydride battery, abbreviated NiMH or Ni-MH, is a type of rechargeable battery. The chemical reaction at the positive electrode is similar to that of the nickel-cadmium cell (NiCd), with both using nickel oxide hydroxide (NiOOH). see at 8.01 on the side of the battery.
jiggery-pokery, I love the British, they are true masters of the English language
Great video & easy to follow. I bought a standard alarm battery on fleabay for £12 (bargain) first before stripping out old unit. Great idea, but when I cut the old module open it was shot - the acid had rotted the connection pins. Am now trying to figure out if I can simply remove it altogether. It's a 2003 xc70, so not worth nicking.
Thanks for your comment.
You can either leave it out completely or put it back and pull the alarm fuse to avoid the possibility of a parasitic drain.
Both methods will result in a dash warning at startup and of course there may be insurance implications as your factory security is not working as designed so not something I can recommend.
@@sirobb fully acknowledged. Checked multiple forums, to be advised that leaving the unit out was not recommended (no explanation why, but assumed to relate to Insurance liability). I washed the c**p off the module with a fine brush & contact cleaner but it looks beyond saving; I removed the rotted battery & re-installed the unit. No knock-on problems noted other than the nuisance message remains. I'll put up with it until an opportunity for a working used unit turns up. It's a sad reflection on volvo that the replacements cost so much since it's obviously an inherent design flaw, but I guess that's life. Thanks for the comments & keep up the good work
Nice work , excellent video.
OK, how does this alternative sound? Instead of replacing the original battery and then entombing it like the old one, just don't install one. Make the battery supply easily replaceable, as this will happen again and again. Solder some long leads to the correct battery terminals on the siren printed circuit board, mark the polarity, drill a hole in the siren's case, seal with RTV and lead the wires to a battery pack installed in the engine bay; five or six alkaline AA cells should do it. The cost should be about $15, depending on where you buy the parts.
You're having to properly weatherproof whatever solution so I don't see any advantage but if you feel it works for you, you should do it.
Always great informative videos, thank you. My alarm siren has been opened, carefully but getting the six pack varta batteries for the module has been a problem...any advice would be most helpful. Regards,
7.2v NiMH 0.32Ah or 320mAh
Ok. Could you recommend any good site to order from? With international shipping. All i can find are RC car batteries.
***** The best place is ebay. They're classed as doorbell batteries.
sirobb Cheers mate. Final question (hopefully): How much space would you guess, do we have available? What would the maximum length of the battery be? I noticed you removed the old case, but how bit is the large case? (haven't removed mine yet to look at it) I found one battery on ebay that is 61mm long. Will it fit?
***** I won't guess at the total space available but 61mm will fit ok.
A local expert at a shop made a battery for me. He combined 4 "button cell" batteries (NiMH) into a battery pack and attached the leads (+/-) I think it is only 4.8 volts, but it has been working fine.
Time for me to try this now. My alarm triggers by itself but has no sound. Hope that means the battery is weak but still alive and not leaking... We'll see
@@Dennis-ud2nh You can pull the siren fuse or deactivate the sensors with the button on the lower central cluster before exiting the car to avoid false alarms in the meantime.
Yep that's the way to fix it . . just a note on attaching plastic case back together I and others use HOT GLUE GUN as this stops water ingress but good video
Cheers Gary.
Yes I've heard about the glue gun before and there's two very good reasons why I didn't do the same.
The first is I wanted to keep it low tech for people without many tools and secondly I don't have one, lol.
To be honest, my gap was pretty large and I'm not sure the glue would have held on it's own without tape.
I wish I'd taken longer to find a 3x2.4v pack as it would fit better and the case would be more snug but I guess it's not a beauty contest.
Thanks for taking the time to comment.
save the drilled out heads from the old rivets and put them on the new ones then you can use normal rivets.
Great video, i have the same issue, but now i know how to fix it :-)
Thx very much !
No problem. I hope it goes well for you.
Hi on My 2002 Volvo v70 my Alarm siren circuit board was Black and completely covered in battery acid I tried wiring 6 AA Battery,s to the Alarm to see if it would work and it didn't work so i got a Used Alarm siren that worked and I recently fitted after having Alarm system service required for 8 Years I finally found a siren and the Used alarm siren works and there is no Alarm system service required on the dash and when I installed the alarm I did a configuration of the siren unit on Vida for the siren to work properly Take care
Most informative many thanks.
Thank you, buddy!
thank you so much for this video it is so helpful
***** one more thing SHEAR SCREW volvo art# 986937 found on www.volvopartswebstore.com/products/Shear-screw/1195542/986937.html price $ 2.69 the shipping fee is to expensive "$48 to sweden
Merci beaucoup
Took mine off and it's a mixture of destroyed circuits covered in battery acid, so threw it in bin , as new ones to expensive for a part that may never be used, used ones will be probably be in the same condition as car getting on bit 😔 just have to ignore the welcome message every switch on.
Great job in using existing parts and not buying new.
A rechargeable battery would be great to avoid this problem....hey volvo are you listening?
Stay green, recycle and sustain resources.
Well said and thank you.
The original is a rechargeable and so is the new one, that's what nimh batteries are.
Thankyou great video
Great video...Thank you. My box holding the siren was under my windscreen wipers on my c30 as a matter of interest. Lastly, does your warning light go off automatically once you have replaced everything or do you have to reset the warning message if that makes sense. Many thanks
Warning light went immediately. No other procedure required.
Great work. Have you disconnected the car battery first?
Any immobilizer dash message tips? Hit a curb with R front tire, broke control arm and axle and bent subframe. Dash airbag went off (no passenger in seat) and driver seatbelt tensioner fired. Replaced both front impact sensors, driver seat belt tensioner, dash airbag. Used an Autophix ES610 scan tool to reset faults. Car still won't start, immobilizer and security system service require dash messages. SRS Control module might need reprogrammed even though the scanner doesn't have any SRS faults. I thought I had a problem before with starting and some single wire on starter having corrosion? 2004 Volvo XC70 wagon. in PA , USA.
Autophix ES610 did reset SRS codes, my starter spade terminal wire fell off, hence no crank. Got it started this morning for the first time since the accident !! YAY
Unusual but well done on the fix.
@@sirobb UPDATE: wired was popped off on the starter, the wire that gets corroded often on Volvos. And oddly after removing the siren to work on it, my sunroof now works !??!?
The Siren and sunroof are linked through the UEM so siren faults can often make the sunroof inoperable.
really helpful. Many thanks
Nice one ☝️
As he said, the security bolt isn’t very right. My 16yr old bolt actually came out with a set of vice grips.
I always wanted to get rid of the alarm warning but now I know how much work it is I will accept it irritating me. I originally am from Congleton and my recorded voice sounds very much like yours
My idea is to find a cell phone charger feed it from the car battery then I think I it will be a long time solution but I will do some experiment first the cell phone charger is usually low voltage I think it could work.
Cell phone chargers operate at 5v but the idea of having a battery in the alarm siren module is to ensure that the alarm will sound even if a thief has tampered with the cars wiring or battery. Your 'fix' would leave the car open to increased chance of theft and I doubt a cell phone charger would last very long being permanently connected and exposed to outside temperatures.
Very good video. I was wondering if the siren module can be tested before installing it back on the car?
You can plug it in and test it before securing everything and putting the wheel arch lining back in place but I don't know of a way to test it without at least removing the old one first.
@@sirobb Thanks SiRobb. What I meant was - can the siren unit be "bench" tested. I thought since it has its own battery (I put a new one) can it be tested? I tried jumping the 3 prongs every which way but no response. Not sure though if thats the way to do it.
I'm not aware of a way to bench test the sirens.
Excellent video. I'm gonna tackle this project soon. Quick question though: Why does the alarm sound when you open the door with the key? Never knew it did that. Doesn't seem to make sense? Without the key I get it, but why does the car freak out when it is unlocked with the proper key?
The system needs a signal from a coded remote to activate the alarm and deadlocking so when you unlock using the blade, you could theoretically be anyone who has simply had a key blade only cut for the car so the alarm sounds as a precaution.....it's thinking, "I was set by a remote, so why am I being opened by just a key?"
There's no way to scan the key in the door but there's a security antenna around the ignition barrel so when you put the key in the ignition, the system recognises the immobiliser chip and knows a bona fide key is being used and the alarm is silenced.
Hope that explains things for you and thank you for the positive comment.
ANYONE HAVE A LINK WHERE TO BUY THESE ON EBAY?
THANK YOU
Great, but most times its a waste of time as the circuit board is junk, so new batteries are just useless, but at least unplugging the thing gets the sunroof working again. Why the sunroof is tied in with the alarm system is a mystery
The circuit board is only junked if you don't take action soon enough and you get the dash warning long before your battery has leaked everywhere so heed the warning and your board will be fine.
@@sirobb I have ignored the warning for several years so I know what I will find. Good video - I just didn't look for it soon enough.
very good vid SiRobb. May sound like a stupid quiestion but what triggered you knowing you had a bad alarm? Other day my horn went off for no reason when inside the house and blew for 5 minutes till seemingly the fuse blew ( before i could find the book telling me which fuse to pull to stop it ) I have no horn now and it blew another fuse when i put another in. Is the horn unit one in the same as the security alarm or are they 2 seperate units? If one in the same does horn going off on its own consistent with haveing a bad unit ( horn or siren or one-in-the same). Thanks for another good vid
Thanks for sharing this video! Could you please also tell what the replacement batteries are called, and size, etc. Need to know what to search for.
Hi great video have the alarm off my 2004 XC90 unfortunately circuit board has some acid damage! do you know if the car still runs without the siren I have tried the central locking etc all still working the only thing not working is the door warning the red alarm flashing light is also still working. Thanks Brian
A defective siren should have no bearing on the starting and running of the engine.
thanks a LOT
Will removing this completely stop the alarm from going off? Im not worried about the error message just want it to stop going off in the middle of the night.
Removing the alarm fuse will stop the alarm arming and can stop certain false alarms otherwise you'll need to remove the siren unit completely.
Thank for posting this very informative video, well done! My alarm service warning has been on for many years on my 2003 S80. Do you have any idea whether or not it will affect the sunroof or remote key fobs ultimately? Thanks again!
Yes!! I have the same problem sun roof stop working
I have a siren fault and also a drain on the car battery of 540mA when the car is not in use.. The normal drain should only be 40mA. Could the alarm siren fault cause this?
I wouldn't guess with a parasitic drain so test the alternator diode pack first ruclips.net/video/dhf6IdBbE3Y/видео.html
Then I would check everything using this method ruclips.net/video/ZCMQE2tgRSE/видео.html
Is this the same procedure for a XC90 D5 2004 reg car because I have the dreaded alarm service required message on my dash come up and it's been over a year so I need to get it fixed and the MAIN STEALER sorry I meant MAIN DEALER wants £425 to fix this issue. What a rip off.
Yes, similar alarm unit and process.
I recently acquired a 2004 xc70 ..like the car - but this "alarm service warning" has been on and my mechanic told me to ignore it. However, 2-3 times in the past 2 months i've had issues with starting it up and needed a jump. I think the main battery is fine - could this issue be draining the main battery? If so, would it help to get a brand new strong battery ? or can I just take out the fuse so it doesn't drain. I'm nor concerned with the alarm system - the vehicle is 18 years old... thanks.
I'd be perfectly happy with no alarm on my 2001 V40. Can I just disconnect the wire harness to the siren?
chris martin I would ask your insurance company first.
That was a consideration, but as beat up as this thing looks and with the few pennies I paid for it, theft is not real high on my list of worries. What I don't want is to activate the immobilizer. BTW, this all ensues from a non functioning remote entry that the dealer wants $300 to replace. I have nothing against alarms personally.
Is it a serious problem that needs to be fixed? Or can I leave it like this? please help
Sorry maybe I should have been clearer I mean with the siren unit disconected i have ordered a new battery and am waiting on arrival before I rule out the circuit board.
Either scenario should make no difference to how the car starts and runs.
Hi there, i have ordered a new one from Volvo. Us it a case of remove the old, and replace with new without having to take it to the agents to set up on the computer ? They will take + - 5 weeks from order to delivery here in South Africa. Cannot use the remote to lock the car . I removed the fuse to cancel out the alarm and this disconnects remote for opening and locking .
If the siren is the cause of the problem, replacing with a new unit has always been plug and play for me.
@@sirobb I have been told my unit has arrived from Sweden. Word out there is it must programmed by the agents. I am replacing the module due to age and the normal problems related to batteries leaking and causing the alarm to go off at itermittent intervals. It has to coded is what I am told. I will have it at the agents next week. My son inlaw who works for them has told me this story which I find strange. Will let you know.
Thanks for the video. How did you remove the original security screw/bolt? also, what screw did you use when you put it back? I would think its not necessary to use a security type screw as long as you can match the thread. What do you think? Also, how did you secure the new battery?
If the board is fried, replacing the battery will not fix it.
@@sirobb Sorry SIRobb. I realized that after fully watching your video. I edited my question.
The removal of the security screw is explained in the video and I just reused it.
You can be as imaginative as you want with securing the battery depending on what size you manage to get. Duct tape, hot glue, battery boxes, plastic bags are all possibilities so long as it is ultimately weatherproof and secure.
to remove the security screw, I tapped sideways it with a cold chisel until it started turning. After about 1 full turn I was able to turn it by hand.
is it possible to remove the alarm just by slackening off the 10mm nuts that hold the alarm unit into it's cage rather than hack away with a Dremmel at the security nut holding the cage the alarm sits in?
I don't believe so. It would not make sense to be able to get around the security screw that easily, right?
Would it fix the issue to be unplug the siren and forget about replacing anything?
+Vladimirs Platacs I pulled the fuse on mine as it filed but still get error message
+Hoopazero Unfortunately, the only way to remove the error message is to fix the problem.
@Tim Lyons Highly doubtful. This is a part of the car - not optional.
fixed my sunroof I just unplugged it by unattaching the passenger fender and it was sitting right there
Could a siren fault also cause a heavy (540mA) load on the battery?
Just got a 2005 volvo v70 and it has the same message and triangle light. What does the triangle light mean? Thanks
Hi is this located on the passenger side of a right hand drive v60
Does the new siren need to be reprogramed?
No
HI MIKE, quick question, if the battery is dead, will the lamp on the dash still blinking? Mine is not as well as no alarm sound whatsoever, and I was wondering what was the problem?
Who is Mike?
@@sirobb sorry, Rob*
Brilliant, will be doing mine ASAP. How difficult is it to do the oil pump seals on the 2.4 V70 (170bhp model))?
How the hell would I know.
question
what could happen if I left the message there?
is there any major consequence?
Major consequences like what?
@@sirobbcar won't close? Or suddenly open at midnight?
Hi SiRobb.
Thanks for the video.
I was wondering what would happen if you had cleaned your old board. Do you think that would solved the problem? (besides replacing the batteries).
Thanks!
Cleaning may have worked but I didn't bother because I was given a perfect board.
If you don't have a spare, cleaning is worth a try I guess.
Would the siron slide out of the cradle by loosening the two bolts while it's in the car?
I'm not sure.
For the sake of just one bolt, I decided to take the whole thing out.
sirobb
Thanks for the reply, it was just a thought as the "one" bolt is the one people are having trouble getting out ;-) I've not looked at my one yet as I've only had it a couple of days but it's one of the faults it has so I will be tackling it soon. I'll let you know how I get on. Thanks for taking the time to make the video, most appreciated
Martin Seaman The bolt isn't torqued very high at all so as long as you can get a grip on it, it'll undo with ease.
A small pair of mole grips are ideal if you don't have a Dremel.
There's an alternative video by a guy who removes his bumper and headlight to pull the siren out the front and leave the bracket in place.
sirobb
It was just the 2 vid's that I saw both of them had to dremmel a slot in the bolt to get it off, I think that would be easier than removing the bumper though, we'll see what happens to my one ;-)
Martin Seaman
Doh, I've sussed it now, it's an anti tamper bolt with no head on it got it now lol ;-)