Bike mechanic here: Please don't ever use white lithium grease on your bike chain. It will leave a mess and attract dirt and road grime. Your chain will suffer, and you'll be getting grease on anything it happens to touch. Go ahead an use it on any bearings on your bike, but for the love of everything holy, do not apply it to your chain. The only thing worse than that was when a customer used fish oil on their chain.
CAUTION: Also consider operating temperature range when selecting greases. I recently traveled north and found my van sliding door latches not working properly at -5F. After cleaning out the White Lithium Grease, I re-lubed with Super Lube Silicone Grease and problem solved. The working temperature for White Lithium Grease is 0F to 300F; while Super Lube Silicone Grease is -30F to 375F.
The only downside to lithium grease is that over the long haul it tends to "cake" and hardened. Speaking of car battery terminals, back in the 60's when I was a teenager, my next-door neighbor who was a retired mechanic was helping me rebuild and old 50's Desoto and he had me put Vaseline on the terminals to prevent corrosion. It worked great, its cheap, and I had used for years on various cars. Of course, now days you just buy those pre-lubed red and green felt rings to put around the terminal posts.
It's funny you should mention the similarity to dielectric grease. My Dad was one of those guys that did the TV/VCR repairman night school courses, and really took to working with electricity. I remember him using some white lithium to grease a car door hinge, and I asked what the stuff was. Being the chatterbox he was, he talked about all the uses he had seen or used it for. He talked about using it as a temp stand in for dielectric grease quite often in troubleshooting issues. I can't remember the story or ask Dad since he's gone, but I remember him being pleased that he didn't let being out of grease stop him from fixing something.
I knew a old school aircraft a and p tech who swore by the stuff. he used it on batteries and grounds for years and said when he was in the Navy it's one of the few things they were allowed to use that actually works in salty environment on planes.
I was always taught grease on gears and that has served me well. While I use a lot of white lithium from different brands for all sorts of applications like quieting garage door springs, hinges, etc, my favorite lithium grease is Lucas Red "N" Tacky especially when it needs to be tacky, stay in place, and not easily slung around like on exposed gears, packing ratchet gears, or worm drives from electric motors. Throw a few cans of silicone lubricant for car window tracks, wiper "rejuvenation", and sunroofs, and the good old WD-40 the usual uses, and you should be in good shape for most general purpose needs.
The WD-40 Specialist Silicone Lubricant is outstanding IMO. Works great for window seals but also on latches, handles, etc. Seems to stay on a long time.
Red and tacky is great! I also….buy 5 quart Walmart brand 0-20 synthetic. It’s less than $20 For my guns, oil cans, cutting oil. Cheap! 5 quarts last a long time.
My tub of White Lithium Grease was issued to me as a dealership mechanic in 1973 is still above my workbench with the acid brush poked through the lid ! Now that's a long time !
I used to rebuild industrial ammonia refrigeration compressors. We used white lithium grease as a gasket sealant when assembling a compressor. It worked very well and the ammonia gas did not cause it to breakdown. It also made gasket removal super easy. The gasket would just peel right off. Even after years left in place. White lithium grease was the old school stuff for coating battery terminals and car door hinges.
I’ve always been a fan of white lithium grease. Was introduced to it by a neighbor when we were working on my dad’s car. The car repair manual recommended using it as a light coating on door hinges and latches. That way, it would not leave a black streak on your clothing. My son-in-law and I used it as a break-in lube on his engine bearings when we rebuilt it. Because of its zinc content, I believe you can use it on camshaft lobes for initial start-up
Door hinges on the car/truck! That's where I've been using WLG since the 80s. It used to come in a little tube (like threadlock), but nowadays this spray is pretty cool!
I am a fleet mechanic for a public utility in California. Many of our manlift trucks have extendable booms with non conductive hydraulic ribbon hoses running through the boom. The truck manufacturer recommends spraying the ribbon hoses with white lithium grease during my quarterly boom inspections. I suppose this is to protect the ribbon hoses as they rub against the fiberglass boom as it extends and retracts. Sounds like a good recommendation to me since I don't want to replace a hydraulic hose that runs through the center of a 37 foot boom.
I use it on bare motor blocks that I am not going to be able to get to right away. If you pull a head on a motor and have to send out the head for rebuild.. place white lith grease on the bare parts of the block. cleans up great when you need to put the motor back together. keeps moisture and rust at bay.
White lithium grease is fantastic! I always have a can in my tool bag. Silicone spray would be next go to for a dry lubricant. WD-40 I use more as a cleaner then as an lubricant
I used di-electric grease on the battery terminals. Di-electric is silicone based, so it is not harmful to plastics or rubber, but for low-temperature. Lithium grease adheres to metal better and is for high-temperatures so lithium grease seems better to be used on battery terminals because most the terminals are metal and in a hot environment in the engine bay.
I spray white lithium grease on all the moving components (and the tension springs) of my garage door about every 3 or 4 months and it seems to do the trick (for the last 18 years or so anyway). I like that it stays where I spray it instead of dripping down like (regular) WD-40 does (which is awesome for many other situations).
I was a TV and Stereo technician for over a decade starting in the late 60's. British built record changers were assembled with a grease that often didn't make it out of warranty before it had turned into a bubble gum consistency. After cleaning up all the residue of the old lube we reassembled it using Lubriplate brand white lithium grease on gears and slides in the changer, anyplace the manufacturer recommended grease. I occasionally restore a record changer for someone and still reach for the white lithium. For small electric motors my go to has always been turbine oil generally Zoom Spout brand.
Appreciate the info. I'm beginning the restoration of a DUAL 1229 TT and, upon initial inspection of the gears, couldn't help but think of the cosmoline grease sprayed upon the inner door skins of older VW's
Rare, but I use WLG on the wedge slide of my log splitter. It doesn't wash off in the rain like oil, and not as messy as regular grease. It's great as a topping on chocolate ice cream, too! 😎
every motor rebuild I've ever done, I've used white lithium grease on new cams and crank bearings to avoid first-start damage until oil pressure can build. Since i'm changing the oil after the first 500 break-in miles, I'm not worried about it clashing with the motor oil long-term.
That's really great. I had always assumed that white lithium grease was cheap rubbish just because it was everywhere and recommended for seemingly everything. I tend to distrust general purpose products as a rule, but now I know what it's for and how good it is. Thank you!
@@cratecruncher6687 Honestly I run into a lot of stuff at work that comes with white lithium from the factory. After having to replace worn out parts full of dry white chalk I started replacing the stuff with red tacky grease. I change a lot fewer of those parts these days. For things exposed to salt I use silicon brake caliper grease. Maybe I've just been exposed to terrible versions of white lithium but I've not been impressed with any of it.
I using white lithium grease a lot of times as deelectric grease, but one of the number one places I find myself using it is wire connectors. If you have old plastic wire connectors that may be 20+ years old and have shrunken and cracked and are brittle and it’s really hard for you to put enough pressure without breaking them. Once you finally do separate them I love putting a little bit in there and then whenever I go back around to it I never have a problem
I use synthetic oil. If I get a quart low and synthetic is not available is it okay to use regular motor oil or should I buy an extra quart of synthetic oil? About lithium grease and other lubrication do you know anyone that carries small tubes or packets that you may want to keep in your car. to keep in your emergency tool kit? I use petroleum jelly (vaseline). It doesn't seem to hurt anything like plastics or leather and it's available in a small jar.
I remember years ago when my older brother rebuilt an old chevy 8cyl engine. He used white lithium to coat the parts such as rocker arms, lifters and parts that rub together so they will have a temporary lube when you first turn the engine over and start. Gives some lube while the oil is first being pumped through the newly rebuilt engine.
I used to have a special container of WLG where I had mixed in powdered graphite. Which made the grease gray colored. That worked super well on a lot of things for me. But I lost that so now I have to get more graphite power to make up another batch. I greased up an old exercise elliptical machine that my wife used and it was getting awfully squeaky. That graphite and WLG combo worked really nicely and we still use that elliptical. I did my lube job on that twice, probably could use another once I make up a new batch.
I fix a lot of dryers and am looking for an optimal lubricant for the belt idler pulley and drum rollers. Seems like regular greases and oils dry up and eventually make matters worse. Wondering if WLG would be a better choice for this application?
Coming from the stereo and home electronics background, we always used WLG in the plastic and nylon gears on turntables, CD players VCR's and cassette decks...yes, after decades it does dry out and cake up, but its time to clean up and refresh it anyway.
Lol give any kid that stuff now would Challenge there fragile little minds, i did a video on making a mixed cassette tape on a video game some had no idea what cassette even was🤣🤣🤣
Would you use Lucas white lithium grease (multipurpose all weather tube) for a worm gear drive inside a car window regulator motor? It seems like a thin layer of the white grease would work good for this but I think most use the thicker red tacky grease for drive gears.
At 7:56, I would not use White Lithium Grease in lieu of Dielectric Grease. The Zinc in White Lithium Grease is conductive at the molecular level and corrosion is caused by moisture between two dissimilar metals. So, on a Lead battery terminal, if any moisture works its way in, that combination (with some surface electron flow) may have adverse effects. Conductive Grease is thick, lubricates, keeps out moisture, is not high temperature, but improves electrical contact. You would use it only on the battery post parts that comes in contact with the clamps - not all around the connection. Inside slide switches, Conductive Grease is a good choice, it's not too conductive until it gets very thin (like contacts touching) and it also lubricates for smooth operation while keeping moisture off of the contacts. OX-100 (I forget the manufacturer) is available in big box and local hardware stores - usually in the electrical crimp section. Dielectric Grease is thick, keeps out moisture, is not high temperature, and is not electrically conductive. You use it to 'cover' your already connected post/clamps to keep out moisture and thus reduce corrosion. Thermal Grease (looks like White Lithium Grease but is not - it has a lot of Silica in it) is thick, a poor lubricant, moderately high temperatures, and thus thermally conductive (in very thin layers), and is non electrically conductive, but not the best keeping out moisture. Don't use it on battery or switch contacts, it is for electronics (like tranistors) to get a good thermal bond between the device and a heat sink for proper cooling. Grease (in general - but you should be specific, take Molybdenum Grease for example), are usually hydrocarbon based (with various additives), thick, a good lubricant, most formulated for high temperature (like in bearings), keeps out moisture, but it is a poor electrical conductor, and not a good thermal conductor in thin layers. It can be combustible so it is not recommended on electrical applications. So, "Grease" alone means a very viscous (thick) and sticky substance... there are many types of greases, so you must always be specific.
John I do just that mixed with mineral oil. Heat in a steel pot and put in door panels, quarters, trunk, hood etc. Plug all the holes and let it run. Can get some back after some hours when runs out drain. No rust issues. I use a qrt oil, any kind, 1 tube grease, and 2 toilet bowl gaskets. Makes a rust prevention sauce that's not runny, but not hard. I use a small pump or just a vet syringe and .25 hose and stick through access points. Spray with a air, suction type nozzle, or just brush on. If you need thinner use some trans fluid. The Vaseline, baby oil or mineral smells good inside of vehicle. I use the sauce on outside. Fight Pa rust every year. Cheap, easy and very effective. All can be had for 10 bucks. Well before the price hike. Idk now. Did mine last fall. So I can do 2 cars for the price of 1 can of aerosol crap. I use a 10 buck Dollar general electric burner and a old stainless pot that holds 1.5 gallons. Use on logging, Tractors, Trailers, Wood splitter, mowing etc. No repainting for decades now. You never see rust on a old car covered in oil and grease where it's been leaked or sprayed on driving.
I’ve never used dielectric grease on batteries but a starter and alternator rebuilder highly recommended using automatic transmission fluid with or without cotton wadding similar to the battery washers you can buy. I’ve used it and it worked great!
From what I remember growing up in the 50's and 60's, General Motors started using white lithium grease in places that will be very difficult to access after assembly like car door window rollers because it tends to stay where it is used especially vertically.
Can this white lithium grease spray go on shock bearings, where they meet the lower control arm? I think there might be a rubber bushing in there also but maybe it’s metal on metal. Can it be used on there?
Can I use the Lucas white lithium grease in my air tools? They have a mini grease fitting so I got a mini grease gun, just see conflicting reports on what to use.
Red, I use the white lithium spray on grease on the linkage for my bike carb. I've got a bicycle, with a 4 stroke motor on it. This thing came pre-assembled, all I had to do, was actually bolt the engine in, put on the front wheel and the handlebar. The engine is a small 79CC industrial engine, that was designed for some kind of lawn machine. It has a governor on it, that is super sensitive. I spray the linkage on the carb, with the grease, and let the carrier evaporate. It slows down the linkage, so the motor doesn't stall out on fast throttle movements. steve
Yes, I agree. Using regular grease on table saw trunions I find results in a paste of grease and sawdust that soon binds up. Dry lube is the way to go, in my opinion.
I definitely agree also. I live in the high desert and we have a lot of wind and dust blowing that sticks to regular lubes and creates a thick paste that has the opposite effect of lubrication.
I'm not all that excited about white lithium grease but I usually have a couple of cans of it on hand. I do use it for many applications. In damp or wet areas I use a high quality fishing reel grease, one made specifically for saltwater reels, for multiple applications. It tends to be slightly expensive but very effective.
On the battery post, I have cleaned them up and spray hair spray on the post, works great. But I will try the grease next time to see if it works. Baking soda and vinegar or a coke cleans the post.
Good video, you can really see what he is talking about with the purpose of zinc oxide in white lithium when you put it on a trailer hitch, or any other high stress application. the grease will liquidate and go from a cakey foam, to a slick, oily substance. Unlike on a garage door roller, it will not stay in its "foamy state" i dont usually use white lithium on hitches but it worked well
FWIW, I've learned that any handyman should always have both spray and tube versions of white lithium grease AND silicone grease, as well as a dry lubricant like PTFE or graphite, then use each as recommended. (...and a bit of dielectric grease and thermal paste, for electrical repairs.)
Hardest thing for me is figuring out which grease to use where. I bought a tub of green marine grade grease as suggestion of the bike shop for the bottom bracket of my kids bike. Bought a tub of super lube for rebuilding ratchets and have a tub of white lithium grease for the garage door. Been using super lube for everything lately since it’s clear and seems easier to clean up. Is there any quick rules for grease usage ?
There are tons of right greases for the right jobs. Your best bet is to do some googling. Tough to whittle down 15 years of learning into a RUclips comment.
Quick rule? Don’t mix them, once the kids bike is on marine goop, it’s always on marine goop. Same with everything else you got so it often simplifies things if you use a premium multi purpose lube for everything you can and use specialized products only when you have to on the items you need to.
How about so’ Kay (think that’s right) (green can) or Kroil oil (orange can) I tried the kroil after much hype I heard and wasn’t that impressed but what do others think? Is WD-40 good enough for most applications or do we have some PB blaster fan boys 😉
I bought some brand-new motorcycle lifts two weeks ago and the screw type wheel clamp was not lubricated when I bought it so I use some Amsoil white lithium grease in it and it made all the difference in the world. Yes that’s correct Amsoil makes one of the best white lithium grease on the market
What would you recommend for preventing heavy wet snow from clogging up in the chute of a snowblower, silicone (?) , WD-40(?), white lithium grease (?) or something else? Thanks in advance!
I'd say wd-40 but you would just need to apply a light coat before each use. Use it like a cooking spray. It's hydrophobic so not only should it lubricate for a while but it should lift any moisture left behind off the metal. You will need to wipe everything down afterwards though.
I love those integrated straw cans. W was using air duster about 20 years ago to clean dust from a photo developer machine. The straw shot out and went into one of the chemical tanks on the machine. I was a lowly grocery store photo developer, so I had a small heart attack before calling tech support. In short, I don't like the detachable straws one little bit.
I now use Bondic (it cures with UV light) to attach those little straws to the nozzle. When you shoot Bondic with that little UV light, it is extremely permanent. It does not work very well to glue stuff together were the UV light would not penetrate. Like for example, if you tried to glue together two wing halves in a plastic model airplane kit, it would not work because the UV light could not penetrate between the two halves. But Bondic has done wonders for me for a number of applications.
We put it on the chain for the lift system for the popup camper. Had to replace chain because earlier type of lubrication failed. New chain is now lubricated with lithium grease so it will work for a long time.
Nice video. Since you brought up bicycle chains, maybe sometime you could talk about the "dry" lubricants used on bike chains. Are they useful for other things? They give a sort of waxy surface.
Every handyman should know when to use WLG (metal-to-metal) vs Silicone spray (metal/plastic/etc) vs dry lube (aka ptfe) vs penetrant/displacer (wd-40, PB) For electric stuff, instead of the old school Vaseline, silicone grease (e.g. dielectric grease) is good for things like terminals and won’t mess with rubber like Vaseline (petrolatum)
3 in 1 oil always did it for me. I stopped using wd40 products because it’s synthetic and begins to break down, it can also break down the material you put it on depending on what it is. I also feel 3 in 1 lasted longer too
I can't remember the name of it but,there was a wax spray in a red,yellow,blue can and it smelled like cinnamon almost.Some of the best lubricant I've ever used
I prefer synthetic grease like Bel-Ray. It doesn't cake or blow out like lithium grease as well as having a higher temperature rating. Just use it sparingly. It doesn't wash off so you don't want it to sling off.
years ago and old school A&P aircraft mechanic told me about white lithium on battery terminals and it's been my go to since. The only downside is on exposed truck batteries it doesn't last that long. But it's easy to reapply and what commercial truck can't use a shot of grease during a walk around once in awhile anyways.
I also had problems with white lithium grease drying, caking and hardening. I don't use it anymore. Unless someone can tell me of a brand that doesn't do that, I will not use it again.
Boesheild T-9 dry lubricant for bicycle chains, pivots, and cables. Goes on wet, dries to a lube that sheds dirt. It's used a a lubricant / protectant on commercial jet aircraft. Been using it for twenty years on my mountain bikes and I've been a bicycle mechanic for 35 years. Make sure you let it dry on chain for a couple hours before riding.
Back in the late 70's early 80's GM came out with a warning about White Lith Grease. GM told all tech's NOT to use White Lith on any GN door hinges. GM said that the White Lith was making the door hinges slide against each other and that Oil is/was the way to go because Oil allowed the parts to turn/rotate and the door hinges pasted longer. I had a 80 Monza and after heeding the great GM God I never had to put another set in. ( Driver Door go figure)
Mercruiser I/O marine engine gimbal bearings had the same problem. The wrong grease would cause the rollers to slide against the bearing races instead of rotating. Not good when your cruising at 3500 RPM
CRC Power lube for most things.Garage doors, latches, door hinges, tool box rails, pullleys, cables, tool cleaning/protection,etc ,etc, i believe it's cleaner and will take the place of wlg for pretty much anything. Dry lube PTFE for in the house, wood, plastic etc, and where dirt might be an extra problem. Something like 3 in 1 for derusting/cleaning/protection of tools just cuz I have some leftover.
Used lots of the green can of Liquid Wrench spray and Wal-Mart cans of lithium grease, but I can't find either one any more. They were so cheap, too, compared to CRC, etc.
I like that dry silicone/ teflon infused spray... stuffs good for things where white lithium shouldnt.. it wont attract dirt, fling off, great for saws and blades.. vices.. hand tools. Good stuff..
When it comes to battery terminals And Greasing I would Say Vaseline and Dielectric grease or Silicon Grease you can use White Lithium Grease on Battery Terminals But I wouldn't recommend it to much can cause issues @TheDenOfTools
Really appreciate this video. So I have used super white lithium grease for bikes, gocarts, coffee grinders and sliding glass doors. Great stuff! My question is related to a keyboard lube I have been working on. 50%lithium grease, 20%gunoil, 20% wax, ,10%Silicone grease ... is that a good formula for small springs and plastic switches? Will the wax prevent the lithium from eating plastic? (If it's at all a real concern to have)
I've used white lithium grease for bikes in the past but the absolute best thing for them is actually white paraffin wax (the ones use in votive and emergency candles) mixed with Teflon powder. Melt the wax, mix the Teflon powder and dunk a degreased and clean chain in it and wiggle it around to take the air out. After a few minutes, take it out. let it drain and solidify and install. That thing will last you for quite a while without rusting or attracting dirt.
Car battery terminal I have always coated with petroleum jelly. When it gets hot it melts and tends to spread widely but that has not been a problem and I have never seen the kind of corrosion shown in your illustration.
I use the white lithium grease (CRC brand) on the car hood latch, hood and deck/hatch hinges, and the car door hinges. I also spray it on the overhead garage door, rollers, tracks, and the torsion spring.
Bike mechanic here: Please don't ever use white lithium grease on your bike chain. It will leave a mess and attract dirt and road grime. Your chain will suffer, and you'll be getting grease on anything it happens to touch. Go ahead an use it on any bearings on your bike, but for the love of everything holy, do not apply it to your chain. The only thing worse than that was when a customer used fish oil on their chain.
PJ1 chain lube is the only thing I use!
As a teenager in the country and we rode bikes in the dirt all day long, Kro-oil is the best!!
I spray CRC heavy duty corrosioninhibitor, it leaves a waxy finish, won[t attract dirt!
CAUTION: Also consider operating temperature range when selecting greases. I recently traveled north and found my van sliding door latches not working properly at -5F. After cleaning out the White Lithium Grease, I re-lubed with Super Lube Silicone Grease and problem solved. The working temperature for White Lithium Grease is 0F to 300F; while Super Lube Silicone Grease is -30F to 375F.
Super lube makes some of the best stuff.
White Lithium Grease also stripped the paint on my car’s door hinges
I use lithium grease on the metal pole that hold my bird feeder, keeps the squirrels on the slide!
The only downside to lithium grease is that over the long haul it tends to "cake" and hardened. Speaking of car battery terminals, back in the 60's when I was a teenager, my next-door neighbor who was a retired mechanic was helping me rebuild and old 50's Desoto and he had me put Vaseline on the terminals to prevent corrosion. It worked great, its cheap, and I had used for years on various cars. Of course, now days you just buy those pre-lubed red and green felt rings to put around the terminal posts.
Not me, I still use Vaseline.
Silicone grease is basically the same and works great
Always use vaseline, it is also great for priming newly installed oil pumps.
I use Vaseline alot in my garage. Good stuff
Been doing axle grease on battery post from the time I learn to drive
It's funny you should mention the similarity to dielectric grease. My Dad was one of those guys that did the TV/VCR repairman night school courses, and really took to working with electricity. I remember him using some white lithium to grease a car door hinge, and I asked what the stuff was. Being the chatterbox he was, he talked about all the uses he had seen or used it for. He talked about using it as a temp stand in for dielectric grease quite often in troubleshooting issues. I can't remember the story or ask Dad since he's gone, but I remember him being pleased that he didn't let being out of grease stop him from fixing something.
I knew a old school aircraft a and p tech who swore by the stuff. he used it on batteries and grounds for years and said when he was in the Navy it's one of the few things they were allowed to use that actually works in salty environment on planes.
I was always taught grease on gears and that has served me well. While I use a lot of white lithium from different brands for all sorts of applications like quieting garage door springs, hinges, etc, my favorite lithium grease is Lucas Red "N" Tacky especially when it needs to be tacky, stay in place, and not easily slung around like on exposed gears, packing ratchet gears, or worm drives from electric motors. Throw a few cans of silicone lubricant for car window tracks, wiper "rejuvenation", and sunroofs, and the good old WD-40 the usual uses, and you should be in good shape for most general purpose needs.
The WD-40 Specialist Silicone Lubricant is outstanding IMO. Works great for window seals but also on latches, handles, etc. Seems to stay on a long time.
Read the label on your silicone spray, the heavy duty silicone spray by CRC is not for use on plastics.
Red and tacky is great!
I also….buy 5 quart Walmart brand 0-20 synthetic. It’s less than $20
For my guns, oil cans, cutting oil. Cheap! 5 quarts last a long time.
@@losebjughashvili8465 n
@@losebjughashvili8465
Motor oil is a great lubricant, but is not that good for preventing rust, so keep a eye on your firearms.
My tub of White Lithium Grease was issued to me as a dealership mechanic in 1973 is still above my workbench with the acid brush poked through the lid ! Now that's a long time !
You must be getting a little long in the tooth. Have you replaced yours with gear teeth yet?
You should send that to Project Farm to have him test it along with new lithium greases!
Mine too.
I used to rebuild industrial ammonia refrigeration compressors. We used white lithium grease as a gasket sealant when assembling a compressor. It worked very well and the ammonia gas did not cause it to breakdown. It also made gasket removal super easy. The gasket would just peel right off. Even after years left in place.
White lithium grease was the old school stuff for coating battery terminals and car door hinges.
I’ve always been a fan of white lithium grease. Was introduced to it by a neighbor when we were working on my dad’s car. The car repair manual recommended using it as a light coating on door hinges and latches. That way, it would not leave a black streak on your clothing. My son-in-law and I used it as a break-in lube on his engine bearings when we rebuilt it. Because of its zinc content, I believe you can use it on camshaft lobes for initial start-up
Door hinges on the car/truck! That's where I've been using WLG since the 80s. It used to come in a little tube (like threadlock), but nowadays this spray is pretty cool!
I am a fleet mechanic for a public utility in California. Many of our manlift trucks have extendable booms with non conductive hydraulic ribbon hoses running through the boom. The truck manufacturer recommends spraying the ribbon hoses with white lithium grease during my quarterly boom inspections. I suppose this is to protect the ribbon hoses as they rub against the fiberglass boom as it extends and retracts. Sounds like a good recommendation to me since I don't want to replace a hydraulic hose that runs through the center of a 37 foot boom.
I use it on bare motor blocks that I am not going to be able to get to right away. If you pull a head on a motor and have to send out the head for rebuild.. place white lith grease on the bare parts of the block. cleans up great when you need to put the motor back together. keeps moisture and rust at bay.
White lithium grease is fantastic! I always have a can in my tool bag. Silicone spray would be next go to for a dry lubricant. WD-40 I use more as a cleaner then as an lubricant
I used di-electric grease on the battery terminals. Di-electric is silicone based, so it is not harmful to plastics or rubber, but for low-temperature.
Lithium grease adheres to metal better and is for high-temperatures so lithium grease seems better to be used on battery terminals because most the terminals are metal and in a hot environment in the engine bay.
I spray white lithium grease on all the moving components (and the tension springs) of my garage door about every 3 or 4 months and it seems to do the trick (for the last 18 years or so anyway). I like that it stays where I spray it instead of dripping down like (regular) WD-40 does (which is awesome for many other situations).
You can often put the wd-40 straws on other brand cans. I always save a few
True, but that adjustable nozzle on the WD-40 is great.
I was a TV and Stereo technician for over a decade starting in the late 60's. British built record changers were assembled with a grease that often didn't make it out of warranty before it had turned into a bubble gum consistency. After cleaning up all the residue of the old lube we reassembled it using Lubriplate brand white lithium grease on gears and slides in the changer, anyplace the manufacturer recommended grease. I occasionally restore a record changer for someone and still reach for the white lithium. For small electric motors my go to has always been turbine oil generally Zoom Spout brand.
Appreciate the info. I'm beginning the restoration of a DUAL 1229 TT and, upon initial inspection of the gears, couldn't help but think of the cosmoline grease sprayed upon the inner door skins of older VW's
Rare, but I use WLG on the wedge slide of my log splitter. It doesn't wash off in the rain like oil, and not as messy as regular grease.
It's great as a topping on chocolate ice cream, too! 😎
It's a floor wax!? Too!
I tried it on ice cream , I didn't like the taste but it cured my constipation for a month ! Just joking , caution don't try this at home
Would you recommend it for a model 7X-4000 Pleasure Droid?
every motor rebuild I've ever done, I've used white lithium grease on new cams and crank bearings to avoid first-start damage until oil pressure can build. Since i'm changing the oil after the first 500 break-in miles, I'm not worried about it clashing with the motor oil long-term.
I'm pretty sure "engine assembly lube" would be better than WL.
I agree with another poster about it caking up. The downside I have for the spary product is it spatters everywhere & makes a mess.
That's really great. I had always assumed that white lithium grease was cheap rubbish just because it was everywhere and recommended for seemingly everything. I tend to distrust general purpose products as a rule, but now I know what it's for and how good it is. Thank you!
Your instinct was spot on. Most of the stuff is cheap garbage that cakes into chalk and is difficult to clean off.
@@cratecruncher6687 haha agree
@@cratecruncher6687 Honestly I run into a lot of stuff at work that comes with white lithium from the factory. After having to replace worn out parts full of dry white chalk I started replacing the stuff with red tacky grease. I change a lot fewer of those parts these days. For things exposed to salt I use silicon brake caliper grease. Maybe I've just been exposed to terrible versions of white lithium but I've not been impressed with any of it.
I using white lithium grease a lot of times as deelectric grease, but one of the number one places I find myself using it is wire connectors. If you have old plastic wire connectors that may be 20+ years old and have shrunken and cracked and are brittle and it’s really hard for you to put enough pressure without breaking them. Once you finally do separate them I love putting a little bit in there and then whenever I go back around to it I never have a problem
White Li Grease is my go-to for garage door hinges/track lubrication!
Same! The door hinges, track and wheels, and even the garage door opener screw. Makes the door whisper quiet.
I use synthetic oil. If I get a quart low and synthetic is not available is it okay to use regular motor oil or should I buy an extra quart of synthetic oil? About lithium grease and other lubrication do you know anyone that carries small tubes or packets that you may want to keep in your car. to keep in your emergency tool kit? I use petroleum jelly (vaseline). It doesn't seem to hurt anything like plastics or leather and it's available in a small jar.
I remember years ago when my older brother rebuilt an old chevy 8cyl engine. He used white lithium to coat the parts such as rocker arms, lifters and parts that rub together so they will have a temporary lube when you first turn the engine over and start. Gives some lube while the oil is first being pumped through the newly rebuilt engine.
I used to have a special container of WLG where I had mixed in powdered graphite. Which made the grease gray colored. That worked super well on a lot of things for me. But I lost that so now I have to get more graphite power to make up another batch. I greased up an old exercise elliptical machine that my wife used and it was getting awfully squeaky. That graphite and WLG combo worked really nicely and we still use that elliptical. I did my lube job on that twice, probably could use another once I make up a new batch.
Got another item for your shop inventory. It is CRC 2-26, electronic cleaner and lubricant.
I’d like to see what you recommend for firearm lubricant, gun oils.
I fix a lot of dryers and am looking for an optimal lubricant for the belt idler pulley and drum rollers. Seems like regular greases and oils dry up and eventually make matters worse. Wondering if WLG would be a better choice for this application?
Coming from the stereo and home electronics background, we always used WLG in the plastic and nylon gears on turntables, CD players VCR's and cassette decks...yes, after decades it does dry out and cake up, but its time to clean up and refresh it anyway.
Lol give any kid that stuff now would Challenge there fragile little minds, i did a video on making a mixed cassette tape on a video game some had no idea what cassette even was🤣🤣🤣
Would you use Lucas white lithium grease (multipurpose all weather tube) for a worm gear drive inside a car window regulator motor? It seems like a thin layer of the white grease would work good for this but I think most use the thicker red tacky grease for drive gears.
At 7:56, I would not use White Lithium Grease in lieu of Dielectric Grease. The Zinc in White Lithium Grease is conductive at the molecular level and corrosion is caused by moisture between two dissimilar metals. So, on a Lead battery terminal, if any moisture works its way in, that combination (with some surface electron flow) may have adverse effects.
Conductive Grease is thick, lubricates, keeps out moisture, is not high temperature, but improves electrical contact. You would use it only on the battery post parts that comes in contact with the clamps - not all around the connection. Inside slide switches, Conductive Grease is a good choice, it's not too conductive until it gets very thin (like contacts touching) and it also lubricates for smooth operation while keeping moisture off of the contacts. OX-100 (I forget the manufacturer) is available in big box and local hardware stores - usually in the electrical crimp section.
Dielectric Grease is thick, keeps out moisture, is not high temperature, and is not electrically conductive. You use it to 'cover' your already connected post/clamps to keep out moisture and thus reduce corrosion.
Thermal Grease (looks like White Lithium Grease but is not - it has a lot of Silica in it) is thick, a poor lubricant, moderately high temperatures, and thus thermally conductive (in very thin layers), and is non electrically conductive, but not the best keeping out moisture. Don't use it on battery or switch contacts, it is for electronics (like tranistors) to get a good thermal bond between the device and a heat sink for proper cooling.
Grease (in general - but you should be specific, take Molybdenum Grease for example), are usually hydrocarbon based (with various additives), thick, a good lubricant, most formulated for high temperature (like in bearings), keeps out moisture, but it is a poor electrical conductor, and not a good thermal conductor in thin layers. It can be combustible so it is not recommended on electrical applications.
So, "Grease" alone means a very viscous (thick) and sticky substance... there are many types of greases, so you must always be specific.
Can i use white lithium grease to lubricate my clock's mainsprings ?
Greetings!
Is white lithium grease good for handguns and rifles?
The main time I use it is on garage door moving parts, and for that I've got a big squeeze tube of low temperature Lubriplate white lithium grease.
Great video! It’s also recommended for wheelchairs where the wheel attaches via a spindle - keeps it clean and rolling!
John I do just that mixed with mineral oil. Heat in a steel pot and put in door panels, quarters, trunk, hood etc. Plug all the holes and let it run. Can get some back after some hours when runs out drain. No rust issues. I use a qrt oil, any kind, 1 tube grease, and 2 toilet bowl gaskets. Makes a rust prevention sauce that's not runny, but not hard. I use a small pump or just a vet syringe and .25 hose and stick through access points. Spray with a air, suction type nozzle, or just brush on. If you need thinner use some trans fluid. The Vaseline, baby oil or mineral smells good inside of vehicle. I use the sauce on outside. Fight Pa rust every year. Cheap, easy and very effective. All can be had for 10 bucks. Well before the price hike. Idk now. Did mine last fall. So I can do 2 cars for the price of 1 can of aerosol crap. I use a 10 buck Dollar general electric burner and a old stainless pot that holds 1.5 gallons. Use on logging, Tractors, Trailers, Wood splitter, mowing etc. No repainting for decades now. You never see rust on a old car covered in oil and grease where it's been leaked or sprayed on driving.
I’ve never used dielectric grease on batteries but a starter and alternator rebuilder highly recommended using automatic transmission fluid with or without cotton wadding similar to the battery washers you can buy. I’ve used it and it worked great!
I've used dielectric grease on batteries for years. It works well. Dielectric silicone works well too just don't put on too thick.
From what I remember growing up in the 50's and 60's, General Motors started using white lithium grease in places that will be very difficult to access after assembly like car door window rollers because it tends to stay where it is used especially vertically.
I suppose that any grease will work on battery terminals provided that you apply the grease AFTER you tighten down the terminals.
Can this white lithium grease spray go on shock bearings, where they meet the lower control arm? I think there might be a rubber bushing in there also but maybe it’s metal on metal. Can it be used on there?
Can I use the Lucas white lithium grease in my air tools? They have a mini grease fitting so I got a mini grease gun, just see conflicting reports on what to use.
Red, I use the white lithium spray on grease
on the linkage for my bike carb.
I've got a bicycle, with a 4 stroke motor on
it. This thing came pre-assembled, all I had
to do, was actually bolt the engine in, put on
the front wheel and the handlebar.
The engine is a small 79CC industrial
engine, that was designed for some
kind of lawn machine. It has a governor
on it, that is super sensitive. I spray the
linkage on the carb, with the grease, and
let the carrier evaporate. It slows down
the linkage, so the motor doesn't stall
out on fast throttle movements.
steve
Can you take the cap off of WD-40 and put it on a different spray can 🥫? Or is it specifically for WD-40 brand?
I use LPS 3. Wonderful product. Let me know what you think?
I have become a fan of the WD40 Dry Lube for parts being exposed to dirt.
Yes, I agree. Using regular grease on table saw trunions I find results in a paste of grease and sawdust that soon binds up. Dry lube is the way to go, in my opinion.
I definitely agree also. I live in the high desert and we have a lot of wind and dust blowing that sticks to regular lubes and creates a thick paste that has the opposite effect of lubrication.
On batteries terminals I was taught Vaseline, though any grease probably would work fine, keeps air and moisture out.
I'm not all that excited about white lithium grease but I usually have a couple of cans of it on hand. I do use it for many applications. In damp or wet areas I use a high quality fishing reel grease, one made specifically for saltwater reels, for multiple applications. It tends to be slightly expensive but very effective.
I use it in the tube mostly. I can get small ones to fit in places in vehicles and such and keep a big on in my toolbox
On the battery post, I have cleaned them up and spray hair spray on the post, works great. But I will try the grease next time to see if it works. Baking soda and vinegar or a coke cleans the post.
I have used white lithium grease as an engine lube to protect the engine on first startup after a rebuild. I use spray paint for battery terminals.
Is it better than clear synthetic grease?
Good video, you can really see what he is talking about with the purpose of zinc oxide in white lithium when you put it on a trailer hitch, or any other high stress application. the grease will liquidate and go from a cakey foam, to a slick, oily substance. Unlike on a garage door roller, it will not stay in its "foamy state" i dont usually use white lithium on hitches but it worked well
FWIW, I've learned that any handyman should always have both spray and tube versions of white lithium grease AND silicone grease, as well as a dry lubricant like PTFE or graphite, then use each as recommended. (...and a bit of dielectric grease and thermal paste, for electrical repairs.)
What’s the best on squeaky garage doors? And the best place to put the lubricant?
WLG or graphite for interior door hinges??? We always used graphite but would WLG also be a good option???
Could you please do a video about using acetone and transmission fluid as a penetrant to break rusty bolts free?
Hardest thing for me is figuring out which grease to use where. I bought a tub of green marine grade grease as suggestion of the bike shop for the bottom bracket of my kids bike. Bought a tub of super lube for rebuilding ratchets and have a tub of white lithium grease for the garage door. Been using super lube for everything lately since it’s clear and seems easier to clean up. Is there any quick rules for grease usage ?
There are tons of right greases for the right jobs. Your best bet is to do some googling. Tough to whittle down 15 years of learning into a RUclips comment.
Quick rule?
Don’t mix them, once the kids bike is on marine goop, it’s always on marine goop. Same with everything else you got so it often simplifies things if you use a premium multi purpose lube for everything you can and use specialized products only when you have to on the items you need to.
Bike shops around here used to recommend ' Phil's Tenacious Oil.' It came in a light green bottle, and the product was yellow.
@@johnwilliam384 I believe that is made by Philwood, they also make a great grease in a tube as well and it's good.
@@jaxturner7288 What happens when you mix them? OMG, absolutely nothing!
How about so’ Kay (think that’s right) (green can) or Kroil oil (orange can) I tried the kroil after much hype I heard and wasn’t that impressed but what do others think? Is WD-40 good enough for most applications or do we have some PB blaster fan boys 😉
do a video on silicone spray.. and compare it to WLG... i used both on my valve exhaust.. i think i like the silicone better
I bought some brand-new motorcycle lifts two weeks ago and the screw type wheel clamp was not lubricated when I bought it so I use some Amsoil white lithium grease in it and it made all the difference in the world. Yes that’s correct Amsoil makes one of the best white lithium grease on the market
What would you recommend for preventing heavy wet snow from clogging up in the chute of a snowblower, silicone (?) , WD-40(?), white lithium grease (?) or something else? Thanks in advance!
I'd say wd-40 but you would just need to apply a light coat before each use. Use it like a cooking spray. It's hydrophobic so not only should it lubricate for a while but it should lift any moisture left behind off the metal. You will need to wipe everything down afterwards though.
I love those integrated straw cans. W was using air duster about 20 years ago to clean dust from a photo developer machine. The straw shot out and went into one of the chemical tanks on the machine. I was a lowly grocery store photo developer, so I had a small heart attack before calling tech support. In short, I don't like the detachable straws one little bit.
I now use Bondic (it cures with UV light) to attach those little straws to the nozzle. When you shoot Bondic with that little UV light, it is extremely permanent. It does not work very well to glue stuff together were the UV light would not penetrate. Like for example, if you tried to glue together two wing halves in a plastic model airplane kit, it would not work because the UV light could not penetrate between the two halves. But Bondic has done wonders for me for a number of applications.
I just lost a straw somewhere in my engine compartment lol.
We put it on the chain for the lift system for the popup camper. Had to replace chain because earlier type of lubrication failed. New chain is now lubricated with lithium grease so it will work for a long time.
Is it safe to use on plastic?
Nice video. Since you brought up bicycle chains, maybe sometime you could talk about the "dry" lubricants used on bike chains. Are they useful for other things? They give a sort of waxy surface.
Every handyman should know when to use WLG (metal-to-metal) vs Silicone spray (metal/plastic/etc) vs dry lube (aka ptfe) vs penetrant/displacer (wd-40, PB)
For electric stuff, instead of the old school Vaseline, silicone grease (e.g. dielectric grease) is good for things like terminals and won’t mess with rubber like Vaseline (petrolatum)
Graphite for door hinges.
3 in 1 oil always did it for me. I stopped using wd40 products because it’s synthetic and begins to break down, it can also break down the material you put it on depending on what it is. I also feel 3 in 1 lasted longer too
I assemble Can-am Outlanders and Defenders, I use this to spray over the battery and electrical terminals to rid moisture.
Can it be used as an anti-seize?
I use a wax base lube. I like it better doesn't Attract dust and dirt LC wax. Also it doesn't harm Plastics /rubber.
I can't remember the name of it but,there was a wax spray in a red,yellow,blue can and it smelled like cinnamon almost.Some of the best lubricant I've ever used
How about using it as a lubricant for the bolt in rifles and pistols?
I would guess it would get pretty fouled up.
I prefer synthetic grease like Bel-Ray. It doesn't cake or blow out like lithium grease as well as having a higher temperature rating. Just use it sparingly. It doesn't wash off so you don't want it to sling off.
years ago and old school A&P aircraft mechanic told me about white lithium on battery terminals and it's been my go to since. The only downside is on exposed truck batteries it doesn't last that long. But it's easy to reapply and what commercial truck can't use a shot of grease during a walk around once in awhile anyways.
I put wlg on my cot legs when i go camping it keeps the insects and critters from climbing into my bed
I also had problems with white lithium grease drying, caking and hardening. I don't use it anymore. Unless someone can tell me of a brand that doesn't do that, I will not use it again.
No good brand Macgvrs, all the same, it will always dry, I don't use it anymore. (Mechanic for 41 years here)
Boesheild T-9 dry lubricant for bicycle chains, pivots, and cables. Goes on wet, dries to a lube that sheds dirt. It's used a a lubricant / protectant on commercial jet aircraft. Been using it for twenty years on my mountain bikes and I've been a bicycle mechanic for 35 years. Make sure you let it dry on chain for a couple hours before riding.
Back in the late 70's early 80's GM came out with a warning about White Lith Grease. GM told all tech's NOT to use White Lith on any GN door hinges. GM said that the White Lith was making the door hinges slide against each other and that Oil is/was the way to go because Oil allowed the parts to turn/rotate and the door hinges pasted longer. I had a 80 Monza and after heeding the great GM God I never had to put another set in. ( Driver Door go figure)
Mercruiser I/O marine engine gimbal bearings had the same problem. The wrong grease would cause the rollers to slide against the bearing races instead of rotating. Not good when your cruising at 3500 RPM
Thanks 👍 wasn't sure if this was ok for rubber bushings
I'm going to try this on my battery posts (spray) after I've cleaned them.
CRC Power lube for most things.Garage doors, latches, door hinges, tool box rails, pullleys, cables, tool cleaning/protection,etc ,etc, i believe it's cleaner and will take the place of wlg for pretty much anything. Dry lube PTFE for in the house, wood, plastic etc, and where dirt might be an extra problem. Something like 3 in 1 for derusting/cleaning/protection of tools just cuz I have some leftover.
I use a EM grease but I'm working on pumps and electric motors for boilers and chillers.
White lithium grease isn't great for those bearings.
Used lots of the green can of Liquid Wrench spray and Wal-Mart cans of lithium grease, but I can't find either one any more. They were so cheap, too, compared to CRC, etc.
I like that dry silicone/ teflon infused spray... stuffs good for things where white lithium shouldnt.. it wont attract dirt, fling off, great for saws and blades.. vices.. hand tools. Good stuff..
I use WLG on the gears and spindle of my garden hose reel. Love it.
last time i used white lithium grease it said on the can to not use near electronics, which battery terminals are exactly that
I do not believe battery terminals count as electronics.
When it comes to battery terminals And Greasing I would Say Vaseline and Dielectric grease or Silicon Grease you can use White Lithium Grease on Battery Terminals But I wouldn't recommend it to much can cause issues @TheDenOfTools
Amazing vid, I subbed. How do you feel about red n tacky? A lot of drillers I know use it on drill pipe and rigs, both the spray and tube kind.
Really appreciate this video.
So I have used super white lithium grease for bikes, gocarts, coffee grinders and sliding glass doors. Great stuff!
My question is related to a keyboard lube I have been working on.
50%lithium grease, 20%gunoil, 20% wax, ,10%Silicone grease ... is that a good formula for small springs and plastic switches?
Will the wax prevent the lithium from eating plastic? (If it's at all a real concern to have)
It can be used for tar removal?
Do you think this would be good to put a very light coat on the 4 elevation screws on my planer?
How much dust gets in there? If not much then yes, if it gets a lot then use a dry lube like graphite.
Super duper question: can you use white lithium grease in your engine oil?
If not, why not?
I have kept a can of it in my workshop for years .a trick i have learned is to shake the cab well before spraying.
I fluid filmed battery terminals 3 years ago on my 05 Freestyle, no corrosion at all.
I use it on bike parts, like seat posts and other screws and bolts which I will eventually need to remove to remount things.
I've also seen white lithium grease used for bicycle seat posts, handlebar posts, and pedal threads to prevent seizure from metal on metal areas.
I've used white lithium grease for bikes in the past but the absolute best thing for them is actually white paraffin wax (the ones use in votive and emergency candles) mixed with Teflon powder. Melt the wax, mix the Teflon powder and dunk a degreased and clean chain in it and wiggle it around to take the air out. After a few minutes, take it out. let it drain and solidify and install. That thing will last you for quite a while without rusting or attracting dirt.
Where do you get your Teflon powder?
Car battery terminal I have always coated with petroleum jelly. When it gets hot it melts and tends to spread widely but that has not been a problem and I have never seen the kind of corrosion shown in your illustration.
I think anything but nothing will work.
I use the white lithium grease (CRC brand) on the car hood latch, hood and deck/hatch hinges, and the car door hinges. I also spray it on the overhead garage door, rollers, tracks, and the torsion spring.
I use CRC also but it has a strong greasy odor which I do not like.
@@JT_70 I find most lubes have an odor I don't care for. But, it dissipates in a day or two.
Wd40 dry lube is my go to for any of my woodworking equipment. Could be a good choice for ur series
I bought a weather vane was told to by the seller use it on the bearing or 3 in 1 oil