One tip from me: do the handbrake adjustment BEFORE putting the calipers/pads back on. That way the discs can turn without the resistance from the pads, and you have the best chance of getting the two sides perfectly balanced.
You should put everything together take one bolt from wheel and adjust with screw driver until you can't turn wheel by hand then release 2 clicks. That's with hand brake leaver down
@@mindaugasbaltutis7107do you mean putting the wheel back on, removing 1 bolt and then adjusting? I am doing this job today / tomorrow as my calliper on my e92 stuck onto the disc, but people suspect the brake shoe snapped (backing plate corroded = common issue apparently).
George I take my hat off to you (and those similar) who work on the ground with jacks, on unlevel or uneven surfaces and then you do it in the rain and no doubt cool weather. I'm a mechanic here in sunny Melb. Australia (I'm not on the tools anymore thankfully) and I wont swing a spanner unless the conditions are perfect LOL 😂🤣😅 So George thx for your amazing efforts and great vids.
Literally 30 seconds away from my MOT yesterday when the rear end started to make an ungodly racket - decided to take it in anyway, and it failed on the handbrake. Took my disc off to find that one of the quarter-turn spring pins had fallen out of the dust cover and was bouncing around inside the disc! Ended up ordering discs (advisory), pads, shoes, springs, expanders and dust covers. Got to say, that dust cover design is idiotic... who at BMW decided that would be a hub-off job?!🤬
Instead of ‘YOU NEED TO REPLACE THESE ON YOUR BMW NOW’ (which I don’t, I changed them in September), why not call it something that indicates it has something to do with car brakes for people searching for help?
Hello Very good video thank you I have a BMW, X5, E 70, 2012 40d Automatic I have tried to remove the rotor but the break shoes are holding it in place, I have press the handbrake release button But it’s just stuck on Is there a way that I can release these so I can get the rest off and then proceed with the repair? thank you very much
So when you adjust the shoes you set them as close to the drums as possible without touching? As the manual says to back the adjuster off ten clicks after you can’t turn the wheel with the handbrake up one click But doing that seems to leave to much play in the system? I was thinking the shoes need a bit more space so they can sort of wedge themselves in to the drum when you apply the handbrake? Any experience with this? Regards
Always replace the caliper sliders with TORX, if they aren't already Torx; the Allen/hex ones can mash up very easily, and a set of four Torx replacements is less than a tenner off eBay.
My new discs are rubbing on my new shoes, even with the toothed-wheel adjuster backed all the way off... do I need to add some slack on the cable at the handbrake lever?
@@GeorgeAusters It turns out that painted shoes often do not fit properly, even if OEM; the ones in the vid are the better kind - bare metal. My solution was to file the "notches" at each end - where they meet the adjuster and the expander - a couple of mm deeper; you can always take up the extra play with the toothed adjuster and/or cable at the lever (which you will do anyway when you adjust the handbrake at the end).
Oh man you've just saved me like an hour or two of messing around, I didn't even think of filing them so they sit further in. On the first side I installed I shaved a couple of "high spots" off the pads themselves
Hi George done my brakes e90 2months ago my question is about the slide bolts I done lot of research and came to the conclusion that they shouldn’t be greased just cleaned to the bare metal my method was wire wool the reasoning was that when there greased with silicone etc the attract dust anyway not knocking your video I love your content but just thought I’d drop the comment in 👍
@@GeorgeAusters the guide pins actualy should be cleaned only no grease should be used on them as the BMW manual says... the bushes are selflubricating and any grease will over time dammage the bush... also do not use wire wheel to clean them it scratches the hardened layer on top and could cause the pins to start rust.. just clean them with break cleaner and rag.. its good practice to replace the bushes and pins with new ones even the oem ones are very cheap and its the best way to keep them in good condition.
Hi mate, I'm following this guide but I can't find the replacement bolts for the dust shield. I tried Autodoc link you provided but still no luck. Where did you get yours? thanks for the video by the way, it's been a big help :)
Guys idk why BMW suspension gets so rusty like this. I bought a 05 bmw 325xi for 400 and the previous own said that it was taken to a professional that said they can't fix it that they should junk it because the rear wheels were locked up to were you can't drive it. Had it towed to my house, took off the wheel, brakes and tried to remove the rotor. Instantly knew it was the E-Brake because the rotor was stuck. So if you run into this problem check the E brake first.
This video is more like an event reporting what happened instead of showing exactly how to do it. A day journal, so to speak, won't learn diddly if trying to find DIY help.
Would of been nice if you had shown the process of removing the snapped bolt studs aswell. I know it's sometimes a long laborious process but 2 birds with 1 stone hey
So wait, you just changed the handbrake but didnt adjust it? what good comes of it? Also dont you have to release the handbrake from the drivers cockpit before releasing the handbrake on the wheel. Why not show this process? I did it similarly to this video before, and my handbrake hasnt worked since. Videos like that are what bring more harm than benefit.
BMW recommends no grease on the guide pins (in the official manuals), just clean or replace when worn. Pretty funny when most other manufacturers grease the pins. On theory I read was that normal grease make the rubber in the boots around the pins swell and then cause problems. Should be allright with silicone grease though.
@@flinchy-5224 It was available on some site BMW factory repair manuals where it was stated clean or replace the pins, "do not grease" very specifically. E46-era. All kits I've seen with new after market pins for ATE or Bosch style calipers comes supplied with silicon grease, funny xD
"Thoroughly clean all contact points on caliper and brake pad carrier. Clean guide bolts and make sure they slide freely. Do not lubricate guide bolts."
This is a general comment to your BMW technical site. You have a second to none way of explaining things in a comprehensive way. Plain english, no shortcuts without being patronising, a beacon. Is there a way to share our technical tips, tricks and pictures with you, which you can evaluate and maybe use for free in your videoes?
Great video again George. Gotta say i do agree about the thumbnails they do look a bit to spotty kilmer and the other little bald fella esk. You don't need to clickbait your contents far better
Thanks mate. I know my regular viewers tend to watch all of my videos but it’s just how youtube works, if you don’t have a thumbnail and title that draws viewers in then it will get lost and you won’t be rewarded for it👍🏻
FFS. I searched for ' "E60" fit new handbrake shoes '. First hit is an E46. I can't get that 2nd spring on for toffee. It requires far to much force to stretch it.
@@GeorgeAusters It's a massive pain on the E60. The force required to extend the spring far enough is ridiculous. It's greater than the µN that the pliers can give to the spring, so the spring just slips out of the pliers' grip before you can extend it far enough. Must have taken me about an hour and a half eventually to do it. I took one of the location pins out of one of the shoes so that it could rotate slightly towards me and therefore reduce the amount of distance required to stretch the spring. Still needed a lot of swearing.
@@GeorgeAusters I've had to give up for the day on getting the spring on the other side done; it just takes too much force to extend the spring that far. As I said, pliers don't offer enough grip to hold the spring. What a terrible design. I always hated drum brakes, which were on the older cars I owned.
These are a really awful design. Who in their right mind would attach the handbrake shoes to the brake heat shield? On my E46 the screws came out due to rust, and than made the handbrake poor and the shoes rattle around over bumps. Why BMW couldn't just use the rear pads for the handbrake like just about everyone else i don't know, as even when working correctly they are poor.
Your title of video are not professional at all!!! So what now should i go to my car and replace this ASAP?? Videos before was way way more professional. Now you just want more views and subs!!
One tip from me: do the handbrake adjustment BEFORE putting the calipers/pads back on. That way the discs can turn without the resistance from the pads, and you have the best chance of getting the two sides perfectly balanced.
Thats not how you adjust in a bmw though
You should put everything together take one bolt from wheel and adjust with screw driver until you can't turn wheel by hand then release 2 clicks. That's with hand brake leaver down
@@mindaugasbaltutis7107do you mean putting the wheel back on, removing 1 bolt and then adjusting? I am doing this job today / tomorrow as my calliper on my e92 stuck onto the disc, but people suspect the brake shoe snapped (backing plate corroded = common issue apparently).
@@mindaugasbaltutis7107yes, but 7-8 clicks is correct if you will change new shoes. Less cklicks might make damage to shoes
Good video I’m trying to find some boots break like in the video for my bmw 323i. Bout its not easy I chec on Amazon but no results
George I take my hat off to you (and those similar) who work on the ground with jacks, on unlevel or uneven surfaces and then you do it in the rain and no doubt cool weather.
I'm a mechanic here in sunny Melb. Australia (I'm not on the tools anymore thankfully) and I wont swing a spanner unless the conditions are perfect LOL 😂🤣😅 So George thx for your amazing efforts and great vids.
Yep, nothing worse than lying on your back under a car with rust, falling on your face and water running along the driveway down your back hahaha!
@@GeorgeAusters Ha Ha very true Sir
Hello George!Thanks for video 📹
I have a question what do you think about brand RIDEX it's normal quality or will be better ATE or TEXTAR?
Literally 30 seconds away from my MOT yesterday when the rear end started to make an ungodly racket - decided to take it in anyway, and it failed on the handbrake. Took my disc off to find that one of the quarter-turn spring pins had fallen out of the dust cover and was bouncing around inside the disc! Ended up ordering discs (advisory), pads, shoes, springs, expanders and dust covers.
Got to say, that dust cover design is idiotic... who at BMW decided that would be a hub-off job?!🤬
Instead of ‘YOU NEED TO REPLACE THESE ON YOUR BMW NOW’ (which I don’t, I changed them in September), why not call it something that indicates it has something to do with car brakes for people searching for help?
I will do mate thanks👍🏻
Hello
Very good video thank you
I have a BMW, X5, E 70, 2012
40d Automatic
I have tried to remove the rotor but the break shoes are holding it in place, I have press the handbrake release button But it’s just stuck on
Is there a way that I can release these so I can get the rest off and then proceed with the repair?
thank you very much
So when you adjust the shoes you set them as close to the drums as possible without touching?
As the manual says to back the adjuster off ten clicks after you can’t turn the wheel with the handbrake up one click
But doing that seems to leave to much play in the system?
I was thinking the shoes need a bit more space so they can sort of wedge themselves in to the drum when you apply the handbrake?
Any experience with this?
Regards
I just wanted to know how have you managed to put the last spring on 😅
Easy
How I cant get bottom spring on ?
Nice one george - nice to see videos of jobs that we actually need to do to our bmw's...keep up the good work...
Welcome Chris, thanks for the support!
One thing bmw never leave us without , what’s that you ask , simply never ending jobs 🤣 lol great vid George 👍
Hahaha that’s very true!
Whats the part number for the dust sheild bolts?
The one and only bmw expert channel
😅
How do you adjust the handbreak mate? My hand break is loose and rolls on like 5 clicks, do you adjust this on the handbreak its self?
Watch my video how to do it👍🏻
Watch my video how to replace it👍🏻
Always replace the caliper sliders with TORX, if they aren't already Torx; the Allen/hex ones can mash up very easily, and a set of four Torx replacements is less than a tenner off eBay.
Great work
What's the proper name of the tool you used to wind the piston back in?
Just a C clamp or G clamp👍🏻
@@GeorgeAusters are they not wind back pistons?
@@Tots_on_smoke No, you only typically have wind back pistons when the handbrake uses the caliper setup
@@GeorgeAusters Cheers George 👌🏽👍🏽
Where did you get the dust shield bolts/ what is there part no.?
Check realoem.com for part numbers 👍🏻
Great video. Do you have the part number for the splash shield bolts please?
Check realoem.com
Great idea cutting the dust covers.
Very good job and video. Thank you.
Would dirt not get into the hub assembly with that piece cut out?
Maybe could weld it back on after?
It’s more to keep the brake dust in, rather than keeping dirt out👍🏻
My new discs are rubbing on my new shoes, even with the toothed-wheel adjuster backed all the way off... do I need to add some slack on the cable at the handbrake lever?
Yes worth a try
@@GeorgeAusters It turns out that painted shoes often do not fit properly, even if OEM; the ones in the vid are the better kind - bare metal.
My solution was to file the "notches" at each end - where they meet the adjuster and the expander - a couple of mm deeper; you can always take up the extra play with the toothed adjuster and/or cable at the lever (which you will do anyway when you adjust the handbrake at the end).
Oh man you've just saved me like an hour or two of messing around, I didn't even think of filing them so they sit further in. On the first side I installed I shaved a couple of "high spots" off the pads themselves
Hi George done my brakes e90 2months ago my question is about the slide bolts I done lot of research and came to the conclusion that they shouldn’t be greased just cleaned to the bare metal my method was wire wool the reasoning was that when there greased with silicone etc the attract dust anyway not knocking your video I love your content but just thought I’d drop the comment in 👍
If they’re not greased then they’ll struggle to move freely👍🏻
@@GeorgeAusters the guide pins actualy should be cleaned only no grease should be used on them as the BMW manual says... the bushes are selflubricating and any grease will over time dammage the bush... also do not use wire wheel to clean them it scratches the hardened layer on top and could cause the pins to start rust.. just clean them with break cleaner and rag.. its good practice to replace the bushes and pins with new ones even the oem ones are very cheap and its the best way to keep them in good condition.
Guide pin sets come with grease supplied
My rx8 pins one has grease the other is dry with a rubber boot
Iv used pencil lead before that works aswell
did that 10mm bolt really come out that easy?? haha im looking to tackle this job myself , handbrake shoes have fallen loose into the drake disc
Hi George do you have the part numbers for the bolt that hold the dust shield? Thank you
Does anyone know how to do the handbrake mechanism on the bottom of the shoes cuz mine fell off 😂
Hi mate, I'm following this guide but I can't find the replacement bolts for the dust shield. I tried Autodoc link you provided but still no luck. Where did you get yours? thanks for the video by the way, it's been a big help :)
From BMW
Guys idk why BMW suspension gets so rusty like this. I bought a 05 bmw 325xi for 400 and the previous own said that it was taken to a professional that said they can't fix it that they should junk it because the rear wheels were locked up to were you can't drive it. Had it towed to my house, took off the wheel, brakes and tried to remove the rotor. Instantly knew it was the E-Brake because the rotor was stuck. So if you run into this problem check the E brake first.
DO the handbrake shoes need adjustment good clear well explained video
Yes
This video is more like an event reporting what happened instead of showing exactly how to do it. A day journal, so to speak, won't learn diddly if trying to find DIY help.
Bien hecho jorge !!!
I cant help but clean and paint the brake calipers, it just finishes of the job !!
You’ve been hijacked by some beauties George 🏃♂️🏃♂️
They’re all very sad men👍🏻
Hi George, good video.
Thanks mate👍🏻
Would of been nice if you had shown the process of removing the snapped bolt studs aswell. I know it's sometimes a long laborious process but 2 birds with 1 stone hey
Snapped bolt studs?
Getting some much needed tlc this car now youve got it
Yep everything that needed doing has been done👍🏻
Where can I order or find these bolts?
BMW
Lol im not disappointed another thing i need to do.
The shoes need changing, cars not sitting so well on hills.
So wait, you just changed the handbrake but didnt adjust it? what good comes of it? Also dont you have to release the handbrake from the drivers cockpit before releasing the handbrake on the wheel. Why not show this process? I did it similarly to this video before, and my handbrake hasnt worked since. Videos like that are what bring more harm than benefit.
Lovely job that. Good effort
Cheers mate👍🏻
Great info mate
Cheers mate!
Can’t see a way to remove the brake shoe, wish you had shown it on video 😢
You just pop the springs out
@@GeorgeAusters thank you bro! Your videos have kept my project car alive and on a budget haha
But how to remove it?
Just wanted the disassembly and you skipped it.
Love how you dont video putting the last spring in because you know how much of a c@#t it is to get in
The video would be way too long if I recorded that 😂
BMW recommends no grease on the guide pins (in the official manuals), just clean or replace when worn. Pretty funny when most other manufacturers grease the pins. On theory I read was that normal grease make the rubber in the boots around the pins swell and then cause problems. Should be allright with silicone grease though.
Yes I've saw that but personally I don't agree. I've seen a few seized guide pins because they had no grease on them.
When you buy guide pins they are supplied with sillicunt grease
Never saw that in any ISTA instruction. Factory training was also to grease the pin 🤷
@@flinchy-5224 It was available on some site BMW factory repair manuals where it was stated clean or replace the pins, "do not grease" very specifically. E46-era. All kits I've seen with new after market pins for ATE or Bosch style calipers comes supplied with silicon grease, funny xD
"Thoroughly clean all contact points
on caliper and brake pad carrier.
Clean guide bolts and make sure
they slide freely.
Do not lubricate guide bolts."
He changes the handbrake shoes at 9:09
Why don’t you change all the parts?
This is a general comment to your BMW technical site. You have a second to none way of explaining things in a comprehensive way. Plain english, no shortcuts without being patronising, a beacon. Is there a way to share our technical tips, tricks and pictures with you, which you can evaluate and maybe use for free in your videoes?
Thank you Hans, much appreciated! You can email me @ GeorgeAusterberry@gmail.com
Really helpful vid, but when I did the same job on my bmw that double spring was a right bugger!
Yeah much easier to assemble it off of the hub
Great video again George. Gotta say i do agree about the thumbnails they do look a bit to spotty kilmer and the other little bald fella esk. You don't need to clickbait your contents far better
Thanks mate. I know my regular viewers tend to watch all of my videos but it’s just how youtube works, if you don’t have a thumbnail and title that draws viewers in then it will get lost and you won’t be rewarded for it👍🏻
@@GeorgeAusters totally understand mate play them algorithms🎵🎵
FFS. I searched for ' "E60" fit new handbrake shoes '.
First hit is an E46.
I can't get that 2nd spring on for toffee. It requires far to much force to stretch it.
I just done it on my E66 and E87... Process is the exact same.
Use some pliers or a screwdriver
@@GeorgeAusters
It's a massive pain on the E60.
The force required to extend the spring far enough is ridiculous. It's greater than the µN that the pliers can give to the spring, so the spring just slips out of the pliers' grip before you can extend it far enough.
Must have taken me about an hour and a half eventually to do it. I took one of the location pins out of one of the shoes so that it could rotate slightly towards me and therefore reduce the amount of distance required to stretch the spring.
Still needed a lot of swearing.
@@lewis72 Yep just done it on my E66 which is the same
@@GeorgeAusters
I've had to give up for the day on getting the spring on the other side done; it just takes too much force to extend the spring that far.
As I said, pliers don't offer enough grip to hold the spring.
What a terrible design.
I always hated drum brakes, which were on the older cars I owned.
I managed to do the spring with some long nose pliers on my e65👍🏻
😂same mine boss 😁both sides of my e46 330
dust covers are the worst design ever ,how they dont make them in two halves i dont know
Can someone show how to put the last spring on holy fuck
I've been here for 4 hours
Patience👌🏼
Heat is the answer
Might have permanently damaged my springs
But ion it's dark now
Parking brakes are so weak, barely passes mot every year, and yes they are adjusted and new pagid shoes
Your camera doesn't like to focus, at all. xD
🙌🏼
🙌🏼
These are a really awful design. Who in their right mind would attach the handbrake shoes to the brake heat shield? On my E46 the screws came out due to rust, and than made the handbrake poor and the shoes rattle around over bumps. Why BMW couldn't just use the rear pads for the handbrake like just about everyone else i don't know, as even when working correctly they are poor.
👍
Your title of video are not professional at all!!!
So what now should i go to my car and replace this ASAP??
Videos before was way way more professional.
Now you just want more views and subs!!
How is this video any less professional to my previous video?
@@GeorgeAusters haters lol, he most likely drives an Alfa 😂😂😂😂😂
Can't deny the videos are by far the most professional from any bmw channel