At least for me, I'm grateful that they do model the base of the feet. It means I can kitbash a corpse or create unique poses with the mini. Imagine you want to lift them up and add a jump pack. I'd rather remove detail I don't need than be lacking the detail I do.
Especially considering Anvil industries are designed to be completely modular. the combined miniatures in this release were an oddity and were made out of the modular pieces
An alternative to the pot base is silicone cooking mats. I got a few super cheap and that’s what I set my plate on when knocking the print off. I just toss them out in the sun and flex them to get the resin off. Hope that helps someone. Cheers
Professional minis designer here- the thing about things such as soles on boots is simply that, most of the time, those parts are made as an asset for use on multiple model poses and designs, and it's more work to adjust them model-by-model than leave as is. Nothing prevents it being done, but I'd bet it was simply not a step that was thought about among all the other things that have to happen to check a model's pose integrity!
I totally agree as myself being in the 3D sculpt train, unless you know there's gonna be a fix ONE way position done to base I won't make flat surfaces bcs I've modularity and if you have for exemple a running guy one of his foot will be somewhat visible and that extra detail is harder to create than remove :)
another thing to consider is creativity I personnaly really like to add some sort of a padding of milliput under the feets to creat a seemless joint and a cool texure of dirt or whatever terrain I feel like that's a pro tip right there haha
I know people will shout this down, but if your prints are losing flexibility post curing... then in all likelihood the models weren't fully post-cured and the everyday exposure to UV has finished curing the curing process. This is why the whole being able to "over-cure" prints is a nonsense... they don't stop being exposed to UV after you remove them from the curing chamber. It stops when there are no more polymer chains/connections to be made... which is purely based on the resin formula. Obviously UV degradation is also a thing (as with any polymer), but the timescales are very different to those involved in the curing process. At the end of the day the flexibility/resilience of a resin printed model is just a function of the resin you use
As far as I've read it's even better to cure it fully by yourself, as since sun contains much more wavelengths of UV, especially UVB and UVC, resulting polymers can be different that ones for which resin was designed, usually more brittle than if you just cured for very long in your UVA curing machine or flashlight.
Thank you so much for this video. There's a lot of people reviewing printer models and making tutorial/FAQ videos, not as much information about resins. And I understand that's difficult; usage case and calibration limits the production of that content. However I believe that you made a great presentation of why you like these resins and the coverage of topics and concerns was comprehensive. If my living situation changes in the next year I hope to start printing and this has been very helpful.
I've used Anycubic Tough Resin for over a year, and I can absolutely say it is my go-to for my hobby shop and my etsy. The prints don't snap when I try to get them off the plate, they cure nicely, and are durable enough to survive a trip through USPS or UPS to anyone who buys physical prints. Absolutely worth the price.
The Sunlu ABS is also really durable. Not tried the toughness resin to compare, but Sunlu's ABS it's been better than any other ABS I've tried and def has a fair amount of flex to it. The only downside is that it's a bit more viscous, especially at lower temps so temp control becomes more important.
I just emptied my SUNLU water-washable resin bottle and it’s been very good to me. Sturdy with nice details. The next bottle is the SUNLU ABS water-washable. Hope it’s even better.
For the soles thing; often miniatures will be sculpted as a rigged t-pose and then posed for the final piece. As such, if there's any chance a detail in any pose might be visible, you sculpt it.
Rather than saying don't cut towards yourself, I'll say you can get cut resistant thumb sleeves for dirt cheap. Like $5 for a dozen of them. That way you can protect your thumb but still get leverage, and still have the grip and sensitivity of not wearing a full glove.
I ended up doing that 10 bottles of SUNLU Toughness, and have gone through about 5 litres so far. I find that the pigment they put in it settles and in a couple of cases left residue. Model quality is very good and you'll probably need to adjust your settings if using other resins like their ABS-like, but overall, love it.
I’ve been using Sunlu resins for a while now at work for some projects. I’ve found for mini’s, a 60/40 Sunlu ABS to Sunlu thougness works really well. I’m printing Imperialis mini minis and having a blast.
That'd be interesting to have a long-run test on the Sunlu. I tend not too bother and print with standard anycubic which does the job. But when I play with my printed ratmen from One Page Rule, when it comes to play AoS, swords, banners or shields tend to brake really easy, so Sunlu can be interesting.
most slicers have a cut feature that you can use to cut off the part of the foot. By having it the miniature can be used in more positions such as being hanged or climbing.
Silicone trays for food or shoes, are great. I got 2 of them that fit right between the printer and the edge of the table, they're much easier to clean since they are flexible
As a Texan I very much appreciate the car heat test. Currently awaiting a new screen for my Mars 2 Pro, but both of these resins are damn tempting to purchase as well. Just need to finish off my ABS Like 2.0 😅
You posed the question - why am I watching your videoß I don't print minatures and never will - it's not my thing. I'm still thinking about buying a resin printer (I already do FDM) and I know, thanks to you, which one is on top of my list - thank you. To answer your question - I like your presentation style, and you don't appear to obsessed with pixel sizes (unlike most others). The "organic" way that you made this video was both entertaining and educational for me. The detailed depth about the resin was very interesting. Thanks
As a sculptor, the reason for sculpting the bottom of the feet is simply repeatability. Specifically, I'll sculpt a version that can be posed, and then I can make multiple new poses and versions much easier, and the detail is there if I want to have a raised foot. Admittedly, I do (myself) then trim the bottom of the foot for stability reasons, but I can understand why they wouldn't. Add in the possible use of the model as a casualty, where it wouldn't actually be on a base, and that might help explain it.
I won't tell you not to cut towards yourself (I do it), but I will tell you about "high flexibility cut resistant tape" or "high-friction guard tape" (used a lot by wood carvers, who are also pushing/pulling sharp knives through occasionally unpredictable material - and where I learned about the stuff) that is super cheap (~$6 for 90'/30m), doesn't really get in the way of dexterity, and finger guards made from it can be easily slid off and reused between sessions; it also improves your grip so tiny smooth parts ping out into the void of the studio less often, saving time searching for parts on the floor [which is honestly a bigger help for me than the cut resistance]. It's not as resistant as a kevlar or chain glove, but it also doesn't suck to use like those do. Also worth noting is that it is called tape, but it has not actual adhesive and only sticks to itself - you never have to deal with gooey adhesive residue on your fingers. The only reason I can imagine that more people in the hobby aren't using this is because it's something that people aren't aware exists.
re the foot details @3:40 we sculpt them because it saves us time, the running guy is the same model just reposed , you dont sculpt a whole new boot, you just copy paste the previous set or take standing guy and repose him into running guy if you setup your build well and , possibly more importantly intended pose is exactly that the sculptor intends for you to use the model is a certain way, but the user... who knows what they do with it , maybe its a kit bash part or perhaps a base corpse or some meme build.. who knows so you sculpt in all the details so it can be used however someone see's fit
Ive heard for years now that sirayatech fast navy grey is the best resin, id be interested in how it compares directly to more modern offering from brands like sunlu.
I am commenting early. When I saw you cutting towards yourself I tamed my inner Karen because of how gorgeously that took to the knife. After years if plastic i have struggled modellinf with resin.
Some people use the models for other things that don't need bases, like dioramas. Now I'm imagining an artist asking for all models to come with a hole so they don't have to break out the drll to put a stick up the butt.
with that big tup thingy, you could just put it under the plate like you did and just scrape the prints off without removing the print, I've been doing this recently using one scraper to remove and another very big scraper to catch or my hand in a glove, you need a sharpened scraper to do this though as a blunt one will make the parts go flying when you knock into them
I can't remember who it is offhand but I seem to recall a company that makes modelling parts and accessories doing an assortment of boot prints; literally little dummy boots that you can press into a material on a diorama to make tracks, kind of like some Scooby Doo bad guy setting a fake trail 🤣 They had variations along the lines of "WW2 German Paratrooper" "Modern Russian Infantry", things like that.
so for the feet. i do it because i rig the model with a skeleton at the end and now i can make as many poses as i want and i dont have to worry about adding details later on. but yeah i understand making it flat but it saves me time when making a model.
i like water washable resins, it just makes the cleaning process so much easier, but though resin looks really good when man handeling models on a table
Glad Im not the only one who gets super excited when you prime and give a quick zenithal to a model and go weeeeeee OMG thats awesome! I have been using Sunlu ABS-Like exclusively for a couple of years now and love it, they regularly do discounts, especially on Amazon, gonna have to try the tough resin, maybe as a mix. Bets test for mini's is push it off the table onto a hard floor, did it break?
If You don't want to have problems with cleaning Your tray You can use plastic food foil. It works for me - just take it off the tray after every use and it will looks like new 😊
For texture on the boots, I'd guess they might be modelled on both feet then the model would be rigged and posed so they can sell multiple poses of the same mesh in a pack without remodelling the foot for any poses that aren't making contact with the ground. It's a simple job to go back in and flatten them but it'd probably be relatively low priority.
I got to test SunLu Toughness and now use it exclusively but models get softer in warm weather. You have to cure them at least 3 minutes, which makes them a bit less flexible. I printed top-heavy flying dragons where only the tail is connected to the base and the models collapsed in the summer at about 80 degrees. The actually went nearly back into shape when it cooled off to the upper 60s. On the other hand, the resin is so stretchy you do want it warm and soft to get supports off. And now I think the resin is hardening over time but I can't exactly be sure if it's just me.
this is about the result i expected from warping with gun barrels and what not. since posting that comment my friends had pointed me towards a solution of sorts. it involves getting a cheap metal toolbox from Bunnings and some ceramic disc magnets. the magnets are just thin enough to be glued underneath a mini base, so you can keep the minis upright and away from anything pressing against them during transport. you'll want to be a bit more careful for larger models, but from what i've seen it's a really cheap and great way to transport minis.
Honestly I have printed about 8kgs worth of stuff with the SUNLU ABS Like standard grey and man its killer stuff. If the toughness resin is somehow better than that I will have to try it out!
The heatwave in Sydney recently was killer. 40 degrees in Sydney, that’s literal torture for any miniature, even if it was PLA or injection mould. I’m impressed they held up as well as they did
please keep cutting towards yourself. I enjoy knowing that if you have a sharp blade and are doing it with the right pressure and atttention...you will never wind up stabbing yourself.
With the clear vs grey resin, it could be the colouring changing the strength. Because with "natural" traditional ABS vs coloured i find the colours slightly lower strength as well.
Looking at this since I'm practically at the point of needing more resin, having started out with Water Washable (yeah sue me) that'd snap if I so much as looked at it wrong toughness is a big thing to me and yeah if this stuff can stand up to the rigors of being gamed with I'm definitely interested in buying some.
I actually bought my First 3 Bottles of the clear one After your first Video and i fkn love this stuff. I printed a bunch of fiddly Ghouls from Fleshcraft Studios and my Usual Loots and Artisan Guild stuff.. Yesterday my second batch of 3L arrived and i wont go back to my old go to (Sunlu ABS Like Solid Beige). Cuz my stuff is now so durable and the Details are damn crisp
Forgot where I saw it but it's actually been proven to be safer to cut towards yourself because you have far greater control that way based on the ergonomics and which fine muscle groups are used. The "never cut towards itself" was originally just advice for children and somehow mistakenly became defacto advice.
As an Artist who has sculpted some miniatures I can say that making the feet flat is the way to go when you are modeling for the end user. Maybe an excuse would be that you can always clip the feet into a base while printing to make them flat but I find many people prefer to kit bash IRL as opposed to inside the 3D software, myself included. It's just more fun and satisfying to assemble some kits by hand. I'm definitely going to buy this resin!
As a sculptor, most troop sculpts are sculpted in a T or A poses first to allow for symmetrical sculpting. Then using this base sculpt you pose it in a stance and save, then a new pose and save, etc. So I'm guessing they sculpt the sole not knowing if it will be viewed or not. I'll keep this suggestion and cut mine flat that are not viewable.
I see you like the cones. The v3 cones are in beta testing right now if you're interested. They are currently only available on the tff discord server currently until the "official release", but they have some added stuff for dimensional accuracy.
I'd be interested to see your take on Siraya Tech Navy Grey. It's pretty tough (certainly tough enough for wargaming), it prints quickly and the results are gorgeous. It also doesn't have problems with getting gummy on the support side, which I found Elegoo ABS-like 2.0 did quite a lot.
Not a miniature designer but I think you inadvertently answered your own question regarding the detailed feet bottoms. For units with multiple poses, the base model is designed once and then posed. So it would actually be more work to modify the feet for only the poses where the feet are flat to the ground.
Tough Resin Translucent Green is very tough but too flexible for one of my application, however for model train wagon bodies it is amazing. If only I can get supports working properly. Resin leakage took out my Mono 2, waiting for new LCD. The Mono 5s Pro has resin leakage, hmm.
Generally you sculpt before posing, especially on trooper models like those, so its just faster to leave the foot detail you put there for when it is visible.
I always make a final Boolean cut into feet so there's flat connection points for the base. Only reason too not do it is, its a mounted model and the soles are visible, or its a raised foot.
Ya as a 3d modeler my self, its much more flexible to have everything completed and from there things can be modified. So for example it would be extremely easy to remove geometry after the default model is completed. Where as re-modeling the same part over and over and over for specific instances is completely inefficient and boring. Also i think its a point of preference as well since it would feel more complete that way and has additional benefits.
Have you tried Wargamer resin? I'm very new to the hobby and the only thing I've printed in so far has been more brittle resins, but stuff like difficult to remove supports has been one of the biggest barriers to getting in and painting. Painted up my first set of Dwarf Guilds minis printed from One Page Rules though!
3:10 Laziness. The entire thing is modeled like the Vitruvian man, and then repositioned as needed for variety of poses. smoothing out the feet would be another step in post-proc, probably several hours, and would lead to inconsistent heights across models.
I am a 3d artist, normally what I like to do is to do the model in a T pose or same times in an A pose using symmetry do the same details on both sides of the model, and only after I have finished the detail I pose the character on his pose so the details heps on the right part, that after the pose is done I go on the bends parts and remodel part of the details to finish the model so same parts like the both of the feet keep their texture.
Judging by its resilience and how it takes a knife, this resin looks really similar to Jamg He Art Engineering resin, which can be picked up for about $31 a liter, or often as low as $25 on sale. Grey Scalp Miniatures did a video on it, and it survived a surprsinging litany of drop tests. It might serve well as a cheaper alternative to this fairly expensive resin.
Two things i would like to know is 1. Do they mix well with other resins like ST tenacious and 2. Does the flexing break/crack the paintjob when it bends.
i still want a printer with two wavelengths, so i can print soluble supports AND plastic resin at the same time. quick tip. don't use superglue, use a bed of baking powder and then saturate with superglue when the foot in place. Get massive surface area for bonding, and it will never break. I stopped 3d printing because lychee turned to sh1t, got so frustrated
As a 3D miniature sculptor I can speculate they do not do the feet out of laziness. It takes 5 seconds in a program like Blender to straighten the soles or whatever other component needs to be flat against the base. I suspect they make 1 model, rig it and then re-pose it each time differently, but to keep work to a minimum they do not bother with fixing the sole because if you want to do a global change on all of their boots normally you would do it once and the changes would reflect on all models, but if you do 1 miniature with custom soles that means they are no longer part of their "parent" object, therefore any changes you make you will have to do it for each unique miniature and will it would become time consuming. It is a little complicated to explain properly...
I've moved to using sunlu exclusively, their ABS resin in 10 bottle lots gosts me €17 a bottle so its a no brainer. any pigment is gonna effect the durability as its a suspension of pigment particles in the resin
It will literally take you seconds in the slicer software to cut the feet flat before printing if you plan to base them flat, while letting others that don’t plan on basing them flat still have the details they want.
I got 3 bottles of this because it looked great, but im having trouble getting prints from it. I did accidentally get the white so maybe that's my issue, it seems so thick and when I print a cones of calibration there's nothing on the build plate except maybe the first 1-2 layers. I started with the settings I use for tenacious, and then have been increasing exposure time, up to 3.5 seconds, and still nothing on the plate. Did you have to make some major changes to print settings to get these to prints so well?
Hmm, sounds like a delamination issue. These resins needed no adjustments to any settings other than normal layer exposure. How's your resin temperature? Should be around 25c ideally.
@OnceinaSixSide I have a resin chamber heater and keep it around 30c. It's just odd, it's like zero curing is taking place except for the initial burn in layers. I don't have this issue with any other resin. Maybe it's the pigments in the white.
On the cutting towards yourself - If you take a little time and instead of 'pushing' with your fingers instead rotate your hand, you will get exactly the same effect, it'll look similar, but it will be substantially safer because you aren't moving the knife towards yourself, just sawing with it. Let the knife do the work. On the modeling front, for infantry you usually model one leg and foot, mirror it, then rig it so you can pose it - reducing detail on the feet is an extra step for each pose. Probably a worthwhile extra step, but still an extra step.
seriously, it's so cringy. this guy doing something obviously stupid and just says "thanks for the engagement dummies luls". maybe, there can be younger people or inexperienced people watching your videos and learning really stupid bad habits from someone who makes a living making content... such cringe.
Hey brother! Been using the anycubic regular tough resin and man alive what a product! I can’t wait to try the ultra! I’ve been wondering though if you can mix a standard with the tough resin to try and maximize strength and cost…
Because not everyone uses a mini exactly how you might, plenty will have a character lying in some other way, or on a flat basing plate without dirt or things as basing. A flat bottomed boot on a metal or concrete slab base looks weird, without the ridges at least visible from the sides. Personally, when I was newer and didn't do much basing, that made my old 3rd/4th edition 40k orks boots look kinda... off... since they were just flat bottomed. Well, if you have detail there, that person can use it to also put in better footprints in snow or other basing materials as well if leaving prints up till the standing position. So overall, it's just got it's uses for many. Reductive work, aka sanding it down or scraping it takes a few extra seconds generally if someone actually cares about, and frankly with feet of most minis size even boots work just fine with half surface area to hold them to a base unless you are REALLY getting rough with the mini, I've got some in interesting poses with a fraction of that surface area that still hold alright with liberal use of glues. And for having two versions, one flat bottomed one not... it's often just impractical. Imagine having people download your files, possibly a gig or so of quality detailed infantry... and then doubling that so you have the versions with flat feet... for most people that's annoying to manage that extra files on their hard drive, takes longer to unzip, copy, organize, probably to just delete one of those groups (most likely the flat footed ones since again, they can just modify to that easily themselves if they ever need), and for download bandwidth costs it's not free doubling the servers amount of data for no increase in profit... And do you think you'd go out of your way to buy, between two sets of mini infantry, the one with the optional flat feet version more than the other one, simply because of that? No... I highly doubt it, you'd just stick with the one you thought looked best in general, since flattening feet is a minor issue if even one, and an easy fix in those odd cases. All this is IMO, but well, you asked.
Holy hell that clear turned out amazing. And you didn't notice any light bleed or have to do any crazy settings modification to get it to print well? If that stuff works I will use your link and buy that shit NOW. 😂
The boot - they sculpt a single model and they pose it. They aren't sculpting each model separately. So you sculpt the whole model once, yes depending on pose some details are hidden.
1:29 Why? Your being safe... Which in Cub scouts to get the knife badge all you had to do is prove you knew how to be safe... Which all it is is never cut towards oneself unless it's on the same hand and always move that figure/thumb with the blade... The only bit you fail is the last bit as for some reason you don't move your thumb away when the knife moves.
At least for me, I'm grateful that they do model the base of the feet. It means I can kitbash a corpse or create unique poses with the mini. Imagine you want to lift them up and add a jump pack. I'd rather remove detail I don't need than be lacking the detail I do.
Especially considering Anvil industries are designed to be completely modular. the combined miniatures in this release were an oddity and were made out of the modular pieces
An alternative to the pot base is silicone cooking mats. I got a few super cheap and that’s what I set my plate on when knocking the print off.
I just toss them out in the sun and flex them to get the resin off. Hope that helps someone. Cheers
Professional minis designer here- the thing about things such as soles on boots is simply that, most of the time, those parts are made as an asset for use on multiple model poses and designs, and it's more work to adjust them model-by-model than leave as is. Nothing prevents it being done, but I'd bet it was simply not a step that was thought about among all the other things that have to happen to check a model's pose integrity!
I totally agree as myself being in the 3D sculpt train, unless you know there's gonna be a fix ONE way position done to base I won't make flat surfaces bcs I've modularity and if you have for exemple a running guy one of his foot will be somewhat visible and that extra detail is harder to create than remove :)
another thing to consider is creativity I personnaly really like to add some sort of a padding of milliput under the feets to creat a seemless joint and a cool texure of dirt or whatever terrain I feel like that's a pro tip right there haha
BABE WAKE UP ONCE IN A SIX SIDE PUT OUT A NEW RESIN VIDEO
OMG BABE I’M AWAKE
Quit nagging me lol
I know people will shout this down, but if your prints are losing flexibility post curing... then in all likelihood the models weren't fully post-cured and the everyday exposure to UV has finished curing the curing process.
This is why the whole being able to "over-cure" prints is a nonsense... they don't stop being exposed to UV after you remove them from the curing chamber. It stops when there are no more polymer chains/connections to be made... which is purely based on the resin formula.
Obviously UV degradation is also a thing (as with any polymer), but the timescales are very different to those involved in the curing process.
At the end of the day the flexibility/resilience of a resin printed model is just a function of the resin you use
Recent cnc kitchen video on hot curing resin was great.
As far as I've read it's even better to cure it fully by yourself, as since sun contains much more wavelengths of UV, especially UVB and UVC, resulting polymers can be different that ones for which resin was designed, usually more brittle than if you just cured for very long in your UVA curing machine or flashlight.
Thank you so much for this video. There's a lot of people reviewing printer models and making tutorial/FAQ videos, not as much information about resins. And I understand that's difficult; usage case and calibration limits the production of that content. However I believe that you made a great presentation of why you like these resins and the coverage of topics and concerns was comprehensive.
If my living situation changes in the next year I hope to start printing and this has been very helpful.
Sunlu FTW! It’s my go-to based on printability and cost. Glad it got a shoutout.
I've used Anycubic Tough Resin for over a year, and I can absolutely say it is my go-to for my hobby shop and my etsy. The prints don't snap when I try to get them off the plate, they cure nicely, and are durable enough to survive a trip through USPS or UPS to anyone who buys physical prints. Absolutely worth the price.
Those models are AWESOME!!! I'm so excited that you are able to feature different artists here!
The Sunlu ABS is also really durable. Not tried the toughness resin to compare, but Sunlu's ABS it's been better than any other ABS I've tried and def has a fair amount of flex to it. The only downside is that it's a bit more viscous, especially at lower temps so temp control becomes more important.
oh yeah abs like is super nice i think aboud putting 20-30% toughniss into the Sunlu abs
I just emptied my SUNLU water-washable resin bottle and it’s been very good to me. Sturdy with nice details. The next bottle is the SUNLU ABS water-washable. Hope it’s even better.
So far the Sunlu Toughness has been really nice. I think a good mix has been 20-30% Toughness with the ABS-like. I wish they had Toughness clear.
I really like sunlu ABS like ... I have switch to just using it ... Price to performance is number 1 that I have used
@@en4cer Yeah its good stuff. I didn't like the bottle of Nylon-Like or PA, just didn't work for models for me.
I use texture paint for my bases a lot of time. I think the tread on the boots would help that grab more.
For the soles thing; often miniatures will be sculpted as a rigged t-pose and then posed for the final piece. As such, if there's any chance a detail in any pose might be visible, you sculpt it.
but in that case after the model has been posed why do they not just flatten the detail out on the floor touching sole?
@@Jam-en8rv Extra workflow for no reason?
I'm not printing miniatures, but I find your content valuable. 😊
Rather than saying don't cut towards yourself, I'll say you can get cut resistant thumb sleeves for dirt cheap. Like $5 for a dozen of them. That way you can protect your thumb but still get leverage, and still have the grip and sensitivity of not wearing a full glove.
I love the Sunlu ABS-like resin, been amazing for my minis. Seeing other options including their toughness is great
I ended up doing that 10 bottles of SUNLU Toughness, and have gone through about 5 litres so far. I find that the pigment they put in it settles and in a couple of cases left residue. Model quality is very good and you'll probably need to adjust your settings if using other resins like their ABS-like, but overall, love it.
I’ve been using Sunlu resins for a while now at work for some projects. I’ve found for mini’s, a 60/40 Sunlu ABS to Sunlu thougness works really well. I’m printing Imperialis mini minis and having a blast.
That'd be interesting to have a long-run test on the Sunlu. I tend not too bother and print with standard anycubic which does the job. But when I play with my printed ratmen from One Page Rule, when it comes to play AoS, swords, banners or shields tend to brake really easy, so Sunlu can be interesting.
I got some sunlu toughness and when printing very fine details it can stretch during printing. Also they do it in a 2kg bottle to make it cheaper
most slicers have a cut feature that you can use to cut off the part of the foot. By having it the miniature can be used in more positions such as being hanged or climbing.
Silicone trays for food or shoes, are great. I got 2 of them that fit right between the printer and the edge of the table, they're much easier to clean since they are flexible
As a Texan I very much appreciate the car heat test. Currently awaiting a new screen for my Mars 2 Pro, but both of these resins are damn tempting to purchase as well. Just need to finish off my ABS Like 2.0 😅
You posed the question - why am I watching your videoß
I don't print minatures and never will - it's not my thing.
I'm still thinking about buying a resin printer (I already do FDM) and I know, thanks to you, which one is on top of my list - thank you.
To answer your question - I like your presentation style, and you don't appear to obsessed with pixel sizes (unlike most others).
The "organic" way that you made this video was both entertaining and educational for me. The detailed depth about the resin was very interesting.
Thanks
Add a slot for a magnet on the bottom of your bases and I'm in.
As a sculptor, the reason for sculpting the bottom of the feet is simply repeatability. Specifically, I'll sculpt a version that can be posed, and then I can make multiple new poses and versions much easier, and the detail is there if I want to have a raised foot. Admittedly, I do (myself) then trim the bottom of the foot for stability reasons, but I can understand why they wouldn't. Add in the possible use of the model as a casualty, where it wouldn't actually be on a base, and that might help explain it.
I won't tell you not to cut towards yourself (I do it), but I will tell you about "high flexibility cut resistant tape" or "high-friction guard tape" (used a lot by wood carvers, who are also pushing/pulling sharp knives through occasionally unpredictable material - and where I learned about the stuff) that is super cheap (~$6 for 90'/30m), doesn't really get in the way of dexterity, and finger guards made from it can be easily slid off and reused between sessions; it also improves your grip so tiny smooth parts ping out into the void of the studio less often, saving time searching for parts on the floor [which is honestly a bigger help for me than the cut resistance]. It's not as resistant as a kevlar or chain glove, but it also doesn't suck to use like those do. Also worth noting is that it is called tape, but it has not actual adhesive and only sticks to itself - you never have to deal with gooey adhesive residue on your fingers.
The only reason I can imagine that more people in the hobby aren't using this is because it's something that people aren't aware exists.
re the foot details @3:40
we sculpt them because it saves us time, the running guy is the same model just reposed , you dont sculpt a whole new boot, you just copy paste the previous set or take standing guy and repose him into running guy if you setup your build well
and , possibly more importantly
intended pose
is exactly that
the sculptor intends for you to use the model is a certain way, but the user... who knows what they do with it , maybe its a kit bash part or perhaps a base corpse or some meme build.. who knows
so you sculpt in all the details so it can be used however someone see's fit
Ive heard for years now that sirayatech fast navy grey is the best resin, id be interested in how it compares directly to more modern offering from brands like sunlu.
Sirayatech Smokey Black, Build Resin is my miniature goto.
I am commenting early. When I saw you cutting towards yourself I tamed my inner Karen because of how gorgeously that took to the knife. After years if plastic i have struggled modellinf with resin.
Some people use the models for other things that don't need bases, like dioramas.
Now I'm imagining an artist asking for all models to come with a hole so they don't have to break out the drll to put a stick up the butt.
seems unnecessary to make your customers do extra work just to cater to a small minority, especially when you make models for wargaming.
@@Jam-en8rv Fair point!
with that big tup thingy, you could just put it under the plate like you did and just scrape the prints off without removing the print, I've been doing this recently using one scraper to remove and another very big scraper to catch or my hand in a glove, you need a sharpened scraper to do this though as a blunt one will make the parts go flying when you knock into them
I like texture on boots cuz if you wanna make a little diorama you easaly can do some footprints. But for wargaming its not so great.
I can't remember who it is offhand but I seem to recall a company that makes modelling parts and accessories doing an assortment of boot prints; literally little dummy boots that you can press into a material on a diorama to make tracks, kind of like some Scooby Doo bad guy setting a fake trail 🤣 They had variations along the lines of "WW2 German Paratrooper" "Modern Russian Infantry", things like that.
so for the feet. i do it because i rig the model with a skeleton at the end and now i can make as many poses as i want and i dont have to worry about adding details later on. but yeah i understand making it flat but it saves me time when making a model.
i like water washable resins, it just makes the cleaning process so much easier, but though resin looks really good when man handeling models on a table
Glad Im not the only one who gets super excited when you prime and give a quick zenithal to a model and go weeeeeee OMG thats awesome!
I have been using Sunlu ABS-Like exclusively for a couple of years now and love it, they regularly do discounts, especially on Amazon, gonna have to try the tough resin, maybe as a mix.
Bets test for mini's is push it off the table onto a hard floor, did it break?
If You don't want to have problems with cleaning Your tray You can use plastic food foil. It works for me - just take it off the tray after every use and it will looks like new 😊
For texture on the boots, I'd guess they might be modelled on both feet then the model would be rigged and posed so they can sell multiple poses of the same mesh in a pack without remodelling the foot for any poses that aren't making contact with the ground. It's a simple job to go back in and flatten them but it'd probably be relatively low priority.
i just picked up the swallowtail from gaahleri. i think its a newer version of your airbrush. excited to try out its fan cap.
I got to test SunLu Toughness and now use it exclusively but models get softer in warm weather. You have to cure them at least 3 minutes, which makes them a bit less flexible. I printed top-heavy flying dragons where only the tail is connected to the base and the models collapsed in the summer at about 80 degrees. The actually went nearly back into shape when it cooled off to the upper 60s. On the other hand, the resin is so stretchy you do want it warm and soft to get supports off.
And now I think the resin is hardening over time but I can't exactly be sure if it's just me.
this is about the result i expected from warping with gun barrels and what not. since posting that comment my friends had pointed me towards a solution of sorts. it involves getting a cheap metal toolbox from Bunnings and some ceramic disc magnets. the magnets are just thin enough to be glued underneath a mini base, so you can keep the minis upright and away from anything pressing against them during transport. you'll want to be a bit more careful for larger models, but from what i've seen it's a really cheap and great way to transport minis.
ah shoot, I ordered some of this resin based off your last video - next time I'll use your link #thankyou
Honestly I have printed about 8kgs worth of stuff with the SUNLU ABS Like standard grey and man its killer stuff. If the toughness resin is somehow better than that I will have to try it out!
Sunlu runs sales frequently. I got the Toughness resin on sale for less than $30 US before Christmas.
The heatwave in Sydney recently was killer. 40 degrees in Sydney, that’s literal torture for any miniature, even if it was PLA or injection mould. I’m impressed they held up as well as they did
please keep cutting towards yourself. I enjoy knowing that if you have a sharp blade and are doing it with the right pressure and atttention...you will never wind up stabbing yourself.
With the clear vs grey resin, it could be the colouring changing the strength. Because with "natural" traditional ABS vs coloured i find the colours slightly lower strength as well.
Thank goodness. You ever try printing 6mm minis on standard resin? It's nearly impossible.
Would love to see a review of Elegoo's new 3.0 ABSlike
You may want to check CNC Kitchen's video on heating while curing resin prints; the increase in strength seems pretty significant.
Looking at this since I'm practically at the point of needing more resin, having started out with Water Washable (yeah sue me) that'd snap if I so much as looked at it wrong toughness is a big thing to me and yeah if this stuff can stand up to the rigors of being gamed with I'm definitely interested in buying some.
I actually bought my First 3 Bottles of the clear one After your first Video and i fkn love this stuff.
I printed a bunch of fiddly Ghouls from Fleshcraft Studios and my Usual Loots and Artisan Guild stuff..
Yesterday my second batch of 3L arrived and i wont go back to my old go to (Sunlu ABS Like Solid Beige).
Cuz my stuff is now so durable and the Details are damn crisp
Lol i always cut towards myself
Forgot where I saw it but it's actually been proven to be safer to cut towards yourself because you have far greater control that way based on the ergonomics and which fine muscle groups are used. The "never cut towards itself" was originally just advice for children and somehow mistakenly became defacto advice.
I rather split the skin on my thumb cutting towards myself than tip cutting my other hand if i slip or remove too much material
I use a mixture of Sunlu Tough and Sunlu Water washable for my minis at 25/75. I found that its tough enough and also still water washable.
What do you do with all that contaminated water?
@@joker56281 I leave it outside to evaporate
As an Artist who has sculpted some miniatures I can say that making the feet flat is the way to go when you are modeling for the end user. Maybe an excuse would be that you can always clip the feet into a base while printing to make them flat but I find many people prefer to kit bash IRL as opposed to inside the 3D software, myself included. It's just more fun and satisfying to assemble some kits by hand. I'm definitely going to buy this resin!
As a sculptor, most troop sculpts are sculpted in a T or A poses first to allow for symmetrical sculpting. Then using this base sculpt you pose it in a stance and save, then a new pose and save, etc. So I'm guessing they sculpt the sole not knowing if it will be viewed or not. I'll keep this suggestion and cut mine flat that are not viewable.
I see you like the cones. The v3 cones are in beta testing right now if you're interested. They are currently only available on the tff discord server currently until the "official release", but they have some added stuff for dimensional accuracy.
Already on it 😎 They will be making an appearance in the next video
i like your bases but have you consider putting a hole for magnets?
Definitely considering it!
I'd be interested to see your take on Siraya Tech Navy Grey. It's pretty tough (certainly tough enough for wargaming), it prints quickly and the results are gorgeous. It also doesn't have problems with getting gummy on the support side, which I found Elegoo ABS-like 2.0 did quite a lot.
Not a miniature designer but I think you inadvertently answered your own question regarding the detailed feet bottoms. For units with multiple poses, the base model is designed once and then posed. So it would actually be more work to modify the feet for only the poses where the feet are flat to the ground.
Great video as always brother. Great lookin resin. Doesnt seem to have yellowed at all. I need to try it.
Cheers! Yeah these resins are epic. Keep an eye out for the next video, I run the new cones beta 😁
Tough Resin Translucent Green is very tough but too flexible for one of my application, however for model train wagon bodies it is amazing. If only I can get supports working properly. Resin leakage took out my Mono 2, waiting for new LCD. The Mono 5s Pro has resin leakage, hmm.
Generally you sculpt before posing, especially on trooper models like those, so its just faster to leave the foot detail you put there for when it is visible.
I always make a final Boolean cut into feet so there's flat connection points for the base. Only reason too not do it is, its a mounted model and the soles are visible, or its a raised foot.
I need a water washable tough resin. The alcohol used for cleaning stinks and is a pain in the neck to handle and dispose of.
Ya as a 3d modeler my self, its much more flexible to have everything completed and from there things can be modified. So for example it would be extremely easy to remove geometry after the default model is completed.
Where as re-modeling the same part over and over and over for specific instances is completely inefficient and boring.
Also i think its a point of preference as well since it would feel more complete that way and has additional benefits.
Have you tried Wargamer resin? I'm very new to the hobby and the only thing I've printed in so far has been more brittle resins, but stuff like difficult to remove supports has been one of the biggest barriers to getting in and painting. Painted up my first set of Dwarf Guilds minis printed from One Page Rules though!
3:10 Laziness. The entire thing is modeled like the Vitruvian man, and then repositioned as needed for variety of poses. smoothing out the feet would be another step in post-proc, probably several hours, and would lead to inconsistent heights across models.
I am a 3d artist, normally what I like to do is to do the model in a T pose or same times in an A pose using symmetry do the same details on both sides of the model, and only after I have finished the detail I pose the character on his pose so the details heps on the right part, that after the pose is done I go on the bends parts and remodel part of the details to finish the model so same parts like the both of the feet keep their texture.
Sunlu used to have 3 bottle and 6 bottle bulk deals. Guess that is only for standard now 🤔
i imagine the difrence is that the clear can cure further through.
Can you use the slicer to cut that bottom part of the foot off before slicing it?
I found basic resin also the same clear resin is more durable then color resin, maybe the color pigment effected the durable
Judging by its resilience and how it takes a knife, this resin looks really similar to Jamg He Art Engineering resin, which can be picked up for about $31 a liter, or often as low as $25 on sale. Grey Scalp Miniatures did a video on it, and it survived a surprsinging litany of drop tests. It might serve well as a cheaper alternative to this fairly expensive resin.
Sunlu is really racking up wins lately. You should do a video of their abs like vs their tough resin.
If you haven't already, try Siraya Tech FAST Navy Grey. It's my go to resin: I would like to hear your opinion!
Two things i would like to know is 1. Do they mix well with other resins like ST tenacious and 2. Does the flexing break/crack the paintjob when it bends.
Mixes well, just tested this yesterday. Paint does not crack when bending (tested that in this video).
I love this resin. Sadly it can't survive heat and urine. They turn very rubbery bendy soft. But its perfect for action figures :D
i still want a printer with two wavelengths, so i can print soluble supports AND plastic resin at the same time.
quick tip. don't use superglue, use a bed of baking powder and then saturate with superglue when the foot in place. Get massive surface area for bonding, and it will never break.
I stopped 3d printing because lychee turned to sh1t, got so frustrated
As a 3D miniature sculptor I can speculate they do not do the feet out of laziness. It takes 5 seconds in a program like Blender to straighten the soles or whatever other component needs to be flat against the base.
I suspect they make 1 model, rig it and then re-pose it each time differently, but to keep work to a minimum they do not bother with fixing the sole because if you want to do a global change on all of their boots normally you would do it once and the changes would reflect on all models, but if you do 1 miniature with custom soles that means they are no longer part of their "parent" object, therefore any changes you make you will have to do it for each unique miniature and will it would become time consuming. It is a little complicated to explain properly...
I've moved to using sunlu exclusively, their ABS resin in 10 bottle lots gosts me €17 a bottle so its a no brainer.
any pigment is gonna effect the durability as its a suspension of pigment particles in the resin
lol I cut toward myself too... and I cut my thumb all the time!
Goddamn and I JUST got another bottle of the ABS-Like Sunlu resin. Ah well, next time.
It will literally take you seconds in the slicer software to cut the feet flat before printing if you plan to base them flat, while letting others that don’t plan on basing them flat still have the details they want.
Hobby knife from bunnings? A man of culture I see
I got 3 bottles of this because it looked great, but im having trouble getting prints from it. I did accidentally get the white so maybe that's my issue, it seems so thick and when I print a cones of calibration there's nothing on the build plate except maybe the first 1-2 layers. I started with the settings I use for tenacious, and then have been increasing exposure time, up to 3.5 seconds, and still nothing on the plate.
Did you have to make some major changes to print settings to get these to prints so well?
Hmm, sounds like a delamination issue. These resins needed no adjustments to any settings other than normal layer exposure. How's your resin temperature? Should be around 25c ideally.
@OnceinaSixSide I have a resin chamber heater and keep it around 30c. It's just odd, it's like zero curing is taking place except for the initial burn in layers. I don't have this issue with any other resin. Maybe it's the pigments in the white.
On the cutting towards yourself - If you take a little time and instead of 'pushing' with your fingers instead rotate your hand, you will get exactly the same effect, it'll look similar, but it will be substantially safer because you aren't moving the knife towards yourself, just sawing with it. Let the knife do the work.
On the modeling front, for infantry you usually model one leg and foot, mirror it, then rig it so you can pose it - reducing detail on the feet is an extra step for each pose. Probably a worthwhile extra step, but still an extra step.
seriously, it's so cringy. this guy doing something obviously stupid and just says "thanks for the engagement dummies luls". maybe, there can be younger people or inexperienced people watching your videos and learning really stupid bad habits from someone who makes a living making content... such cringe.
Hey brother! Been using the anycubic regular tough resin and man alive what a product! I can’t wait to try the ultra! I’ve been wondering though if you can mix a standard with the tough resin to try and maximize strength and cost…
Now I'm curious as to how these compare to abs like resins that have been around for quite some time
Definitely a cut above your ABS-likes. Can bend these tough resins a lot more before they fail
Because not everyone uses a mini exactly how you might, plenty will have a character lying in some other way, or on a flat basing plate without dirt or things as basing. A flat bottomed boot on a metal or concrete slab base looks weird, without the ridges at least visible from the sides. Personally, when I was newer and didn't do much basing, that made my old 3rd/4th edition 40k orks boots look kinda... off... since they were just flat bottomed.
Well, if you have detail there, that person can use it to also put in better footprints in snow or other basing materials as well if leaving prints up till the standing position. So overall, it's just got it's uses for many. Reductive work, aka sanding it down or scraping it takes a few extra seconds generally if someone actually cares about, and frankly with feet of most minis size even boots work just fine with half surface area to hold them to a base unless you are REALLY getting rough with the mini, I've got some in interesting poses with a fraction of that surface area that still hold alright with liberal use of glues.
And for having two versions, one flat bottomed one not... it's often just impractical. Imagine having people download your files, possibly a gig or so of quality detailed infantry... and then doubling that so you have the versions with flat feet... for most people that's annoying to manage that extra files on their hard drive, takes longer to unzip, copy, organize, probably to just delete one of those groups (most likely the flat footed ones since again, they can just modify to that easily themselves if they ever need), and for download bandwidth costs it's not free doubling the servers amount of data for no increase in profit... And do you think you'd go out of your way to buy, between two sets of mini infantry, the one with the optional flat feet version more than the other one, simply because of that? No... I highly doubt it, you'd just stick with the one you thought looked best in general, since flattening feet is a minor issue if even one, and an easy fix in those odd cases.
All this is IMO, but well, you asked.
Cool. Thank you for sharing. 👍
My anxiety at 3:51 steadily rose while he was cutting that boot piece..
Have you tried any phozen resins? Their 8k stuff has been great for me but I am wondering if I should consider switching.
Holy hell that clear turned out amazing. And you didn't notice any light bleed or have to do any crazy settings modification to get it to print well? If that stuff works I will use your link and buy that shit NOW. 😂
The boots are probably presulpted assets, when building the model they drag, drop and join them to whats being worked on.
The boot - they sculpt a single model and they pose it. They aren't sculpting each model separately. So you sculpt the whole model once, yes depending on pose some details are hidden.
opinion on the M5s pro? Cause I'm looking forward to buy it
My favorite printer, I recently spoke about it at length in a video. I can't remember the title but it's in the thumbnail
Did you have trouble with models flexing during printing?
Are you going to release your bases in squares?
1:29 Why? Your being safe... Which in Cub scouts to get the knife badge all you had to do is prove you knew how to be safe... Which all it is is never cut towards oneself unless it's on the same hand and always move that figure/thumb with the blade... The only bit you fail is the last bit as for some reason you don't move your thumb away when the knife moves.
How does it compare to Sirayatech Tenacious? Does it hold details better? Is it less expensive?