At least for me, I'm grateful that they do model the base of the feet. It means I can kitbash a corpse or create unique poses with the mini. Imagine you want to lift them up and add a jump pack. I'd rather remove detail I don't need than be lacking the detail I do.
Especially considering Anvil industries are designed to be completely modular. the combined miniatures in this release were an oddity and were made out of the modular pieces
Thank you so much for this video. There's a lot of people reviewing printer models and making tutorial/FAQ videos, not as much information about resins. And I understand that's difficult; usage case and calibration limits the production of that content. However I believe that you made a great presentation of why you like these resins and the coverage of topics and concerns was comprehensive. If my living situation changes in the next year I hope to start printing and this has been very helpful.
As an Artist who has sculpted some miniatures I can say that making the feet flat is the way to go when you are modeling for the end user. Maybe an excuse would be that you can always clip the feet into a base while printing to make them flat but I find many people prefer to kit bash IRL as opposed to inside the 3D software, myself included. It's just more fun and satisfying to assemble some kits by hand. I'm definitely going to buy this resin!
Honestly I have printed about 8kgs worth of stuff with the SUNLU ABS Like standard grey and man its killer stuff. If the toughness resin is somehow better than that I will have to try it out!
I ended up doing that 10 bottles of SUNLU Toughness, and have gone through about 5 litres so far. I find that the pigment they put in it settles and in a couple of cases left residue. Model quality is very good and you'll probably need to adjust your settings if using other resins like their ABS-like, but overall, love it.
I'd be interested to see your take on Siraya Tech Navy Grey. It's pretty tough (certainly tough enough for wargaming), it prints quickly and the results are gorgeous. It also doesn't have problems with getting gummy on the support side, which I found Elegoo ABS-like 2.0 did quite a lot.
Tough Resin Translucent Green is very tough but too flexible for one of my application, however for model train wagon bodies it is amazing. If only I can get supports working properly. Resin leakage took out my Mono 2, waiting for new LCD. The Mono 5s Pro has resin leakage, hmm.
3:10 Laziness. The entire thing is modeled like the Vitruvian man, and then repositioned as needed for variety of poses. smoothing out the feet would be another step in post-proc, probably several hours, and would lead to inconsistent heights across models.
Because not everyone uses a mini exactly how you might, plenty will have a character lying in some other way, or on a flat basing plate without dirt or things as basing. A flat bottomed boot on a metal or concrete slab base looks weird, without the ridges at least visible from the sides. Personally, when I was newer and didn't do much basing, that made my old 3rd/4th edition 40k orks boots look kinda... off... since they were just flat bottomed. Well, if you have detail there, that person can use it to also put in better footprints in snow or other basing materials as well if leaving prints up till the standing position. So overall, it's just got it's uses for many. Reductive work, aka sanding it down or scraping it takes a few extra seconds generally if someone actually cares about, and frankly with feet of most minis size even boots work just fine with half surface area to hold them to a base unless you are REALLY getting rough with the mini, I've got some in interesting poses with a fraction of that surface area that still hold alright with liberal use of glues. And for having two versions, one flat bottomed one not... it's often just impractical. Imagine having people download your files, possibly a gig or so of quality detailed infantry... and then doubling that so you have the versions with flat feet... for most people that's annoying to manage that extra files on their hard drive, takes longer to unzip, copy, organize, probably to just delete one of those groups (most likely the flat footed ones since again, they can just modify to that easily themselves if they ever need), and for download bandwidth costs it's not free doubling the servers amount of data for no increase in profit... And do you think you'd go out of your way to buy, between two sets of mini infantry, the one with the optional flat feet version more than the other one, simply because of that? No... I highly doubt it, you'd just stick with the one you thought looked best in general, since flattening feet is a minor issue if even one, and an easy fix in those odd cases. All this is IMO, but well, you asked.
I see you like the cones. The v3 cones are in beta testing right now if you're interested. They are currently only available on the tff discord server currently until the "official release", but they have some added stuff for dimensional accuracy.
Failing to stick to the build plate. What is "burn time?" I used bottom layer count 10, Bottom exposure 50 seconds, regular exposure 6 seconds. the supports that do work are near impossible to remove (heavy auto supports from Chitubox). There was some kind of thin, translucent, sticky substance in places on the screen and bottom of the FEP.@@OnceinaSixSide
Omg you shouldn't cut towards yourself like that! What do you mean you have more control, and you are able to spread the work evenly across all of the muscles in your hand so that you are not likely to cut yourself?
Professional minis designer here- the thing about things such as soles on boots is simply that, most of the time, those parts are made as an asset for use on multiple model poses and designs, and it's more work to adjust them model-by-model than leave as is. Nothing prevents it being done, but I'd bet it was simply not a step that was thought about among all the other things that have to happen to check a model's pose integrity!
I totally agree as myself being in the 3D sculpt train, unless you know there's gonna be a fix ONE way position done to base I won't make flat surfaces bcs I've modularity and if you have for exemple a running guy one of his foot will be somewhat visible and that extra detail is harder to create than remove :)
another thing to consider is creativity I personnaly really like to add some sort of a padding of milliput under the feets to creat a seemless joint and a cool texure of dirt or whatever terrain I feel like that's a pro tip right there haha
An alternative to the pot base is silicone cooking mats. I got a few super cheap and that’s what I set my plate on when knocking the print off. I just toss them out in the sun and flex them to get the resin off. Hope that helps someone. Cheers
I know people will shout this down, but if your prints are losing flexibility post curing... then in all likelihood the models weren't fully post-cured and the everyday exposure to UV has finished curing the curing process. This is why the whole being able to "over-cure" prints is a nonsense... they don't stop being exposed to UV after you remove them from the curing chamber. It stops when there are no more polymer chains/connections to be made... which is purely based on the resin formula. Obviously UV degradation is also a thing (as with any polymer), but the timescales are very different to those involved in the curing process. At the end of the day the flexibility/resilience of a resin printed model is just a function of the resin you use
As far as I've read it's even better to cure it fully by yourself, as since sun contains much more wavelengths of UV, especially UVB and UVC, resulting polymers can be different that ones for which resin was designed, usually more brittle than if you just cured for very long in your UVA curing machine or flashlight.
For the soles thing; often miniatures will be sculpted as a rigged t-pose and then posed for the final piece. As such, if there's any chance a detail in any pose might be visible, you sculpt it.
The Sunlu ABS is also really durable. Not tried the toughness resin to compare, but Sunlu's ABS it's been better than any other ABS I've tried and def has a fair amount of flex to it. The only downside is that it's a bit more viscous, especially at lower temps so temp control becomes more important.
I just emptied my SUNLU water-washable resin bottle and it’s been very good to me. Sturdy with nice details. The next bottle is the SUNLU ABS water-washable. Hope it’s even better.
As a sculptor, the reason for sculpting the bottom of the feet is simply repeatability. Specifically, I'll sculpt a version that can be posed, and then I can make multiple new poses and versions much easier, and the detail is there if I want to have a raised foot. Admittedly, I do (myself) then trim the bottom of the foot for stability reasons, but I can understand why they wouldn't. Add in the possible use of the model as a casualty, where it wouldn't actually be on a base, and that might help explain it.
Ive heard for years now that sirayatech fast navy grey is the best resin, id be interested in how it compares directly to more modern offering from brands like sunlu.
Forgot where I saw it but it's actually been proven to be safer to cut towards yourself because you have far greater control that way based on the ergonomics and which fine muscle groups are used. The "never cut towards itself" was originally just advice for children and somehow mistakenly became defacto advice.
Rather than saying don't cut towards yourself, I'll say you can get cut resistant thumb sleeves for dirt cheap. Like $5 for a dozen of them. That way you can protect your thumb but still get leverage, and still have the grip and sensitivity of not wearing a full glove.
I can't remember who it is offhand but I seem to recall a company that makes modelling parts and accessories doing an assortment of boot prints; literally little dummy boots that you can press into a material on a diorama to make tracks, kind of like some Scooby Doo bad guy setting a fake trail 🤣 They had variations along the lines of "WW2 German Paratrooper" "Modern Russian Infantry", things like that.
Some people use the models for other things that don't need bases, like dioramas. Now I'm imagining an artist asking for all models to come with a hole so they don't have to break out the drll to put a stick up the butt.
I got 3 bottles of this because it looked great, but im having trouble getting prints from it. I did accidentally get the white so maybe that's my issue, it seems so thick and when I print a cones of calibration there's nothing on the build plate except maybe the first 1-2 layers. I started with the settings I use for tenacious, and then have been increasing exposure time, up to 3.5 seconds, and still nothing on the plate. Did you have to make some major changes to print settings to get these to prints so well?
Hmm, sounds like a delamination issue. These resins needed no adjustments to any settings other than normal layer exposure. How's your resin temperature? Should be around 25c ideally.
@OnceinaSixSide I have a resin chamber heater and keep it around 30c. It's just odd, it's like zero curing is taking place except for the initial burn in layers. I don't have this issue with any other resin. Maybe it's the pigments in the white.
I love you but want to give some constructive criticism. I feel like your title and thumbnail combo was too clickbaity. At first I was going to not watch it just because of that but then I realized it was u who posted it so I just wanted to come in to say that. Thank you for all your good content tho
1:29 Why? Your being safe... Which in Cub scouts to get the knife badge all you had to do is prove you knew how to be safe... Which all it is is never cut towards oneself unless it's on the same hand and always move that figure/thumb with the blade... The only bit you fail is the last bit as for some reason you don't move your thumb away when the knife moves.
I won't tell you not to cut towards yourself (I do it), but I will tell you about "high flexibility cut resistant tape" or "high-friction guard tape" (used a lot by wood carvers, who are also pushing/pulling sharp knives through occasionally unpredictable material - and where I learned about the stuff) that is super cheap (~$6 for 90'/30m), doesn't really get in the way of dexterity, and finger guards made from it can be easily slid off and reused between sessions; it also improves your grip so tiny smooth parts ping out into the void of the studio less often, saving time searching for parts on the floor [which is honestly a bigger help for me than the cut resistance]. It's not as resistant as a kevlar or chain glove, but it also doesn't suck to use like those do. Also worth noting is that it is called tape, but it has not actual adhesive and only sticks to itself - you never have to deal with gooey adhesive residue on your fingers. The only reason I can imagine that more people in the hobby aren't using this is because it's something that people aren't aware exists.
I don't care about you cutting towards yourself. What I DO care about though, IS NOT PINNING YOUR MODELS TO THEIR BASES. How do people think that super glue is enough?!
Is the 2.0 the older version? There’s like 3 different Anycubic resins and i want the strongest, Anycubic tough resin, Anycubic tough resin ultra, or Anycubic tough resin 2.0? So confusing
No the ABS-Like is not as tough. Tough Ultra and Toughness are about on par with one another, with clear Tough Ultra being the best. But it's pretty pricey!
Glad Im not the only one who gets super excited when you prime and give a quick zenithal to a model and go weeeeeee OMG thats awesome! I have been using Sunlu ABS-Like exclusively for a couple of years now and love it, they regularly do discounts, especially on Amazon, gonna have to try the tough resin, maybe as a mix. Bets test for mini's is push it off the table onto a hard floor, did it break?
I am commenting early. When I saw you cutting towards yourself I tamed my inner Karen because of how gorgeously that took to the knife. After years if plastic i have struggled modellinf with resin.
What kind of impact does the flexibility have when it comes to painting the smaller bits? One of the things I've always disliked about the flexible Bones miniatures from Reaper (besides the softer details they often have) is that they can sometimes be TOO flexible, making painting swords and spears a pain -- especially if you want to paint a non-metallic metal style or fine detail work where having the part bounce around from your brush can hinder the process. In other words, since you're trying to show the flexibility on camera, it's hard to tell how much force you're using to make them bend.
Holy hell that clear turned out amazing. And you didn't notice any light bleed or have to do any crazy settings modification to get it to print well? If that stuff works I will use your link and buy that shit NOW. 😂
As a Texan I very much appreciate the car heat test. Currently awaiting a new screen for my Mars 2 Pro, but both of these resins are damn tempting to purchase as well. Just need to finish off my ABS Like 2.0 😅
Have you tried Wargamer resin? I'm very new to the hobby and the only thing I've printed in so far has been more brittle resins, but stuff like difficult to remove supports has been one of the biggest barriers to getting in and painting. Painted up my first set of Dwarf Guilds minis printed from One Page Rules though!
I usually print with the phrozen 4k (due to it being more flexible than the 8k), but i tried the TGM 7 clear, and it was extremely flexible. I might try the clear anycubic resin.
1. I like the knife. What brand is it or where can I find one. 2. Wouldn't those foot ridges allow for more surface contact with the glue? I tend to score areas where I glue any way to let the glue seep in. Edit So glad to see some one taking about sunlu. Have been using it for over a year. Specifically abs like until they came out with that and have been hooked on it since. Id argue its toughness rivals the ones marketed as tough and the bendyness is a high poimt woth it as well. I think for minis thats what we need more than "tough". What happens in a fall ? The mini tends to compress (bend) and break. So if it can take that compression it'll survive. Ive printed big and small. Often donating any misprints to my 6 yr old and they have survived some rough treatment. Would definitely be interested in you applying your big brain to the nylon like. See if im crazy, lucky or correct. 😂.
Judging by its resilience and how it takes a knife, this resin looks really similar to Jamg He Art Engineering resin, which can be picked up for about $31 a liter, or often as low as $25 on sale. Grey Scalp Miniatures did a video on it, and it survived a surprsinging litany of drop tests. It might serve well as a cheaper alternative to this fairly expensive resin.
I got to test SunLu Toughness and now use it exclusively but models get softer in warm weather. You have to cure them at least 3 minutes, which makes them a bit less flexible. I printed top-heavy flying dragons where only the tail is connected to the base and the models collapsed in the summer at about 80 degrees. The actually went nearly back into shape when it cooled off to the upper 60s. On the other hand, the resin is so stretchy you do want it warm and soft to get supports off. And now I think the resin is hardening over time but I can't exactly be sure if it's just me.
That'd be interesting to have a long-run test on the Sunlu. I tend not too bother and print with standard anycubic which does the job. But when I play with my printed ratmen from One Page Rule, when it comes to play AoS, swords, banners or shields tend to brake really easy, so Sunlu can be interesting.
i still want a printer with two wavelengths, so i can print soluble supports AND plastic resin at the same time. quick tip. don't use superglue, use a bed of baking powder and then saturate with superglue when the foot in place. Get massive surface area for bonding, and it will never break. I stopped 3d printing because lychee turned to sh1t, got so frustrated
Does it solve the problem of UV resin softening detail and becoming brittle over time? Whats the gameplan when your minis look like shite in 7-10 years? Just reprint and repaint? I print assemblies and then recast in casting resin which lasts forever.
With the clear vs grey resin, it could be the colouring changing the strength. Because with "natural" traditional ABS vs coloured i find the colours slightly lower strength as well.
As a sculptor, most troop sculpts are sculpted in a T or A poses first to allow for symmetrical sculpting. Then using this base sculpt you pose it in a stance and save, then a new pose and save, etc. So I'm guessing they sculpt the sole not knowing if it will be viewed or not. I'll keep this suggestion and cut mine flat that are not viewable.
please keep cutting towards yourself. I enjoy knowing that if you have a sharp blade and are doing it with the right pressure and atttention...you will never wind up stabbing yourself.
Looking at this since I'm practically at the point of needing more resin, having started out with Water Washable (yeah sue me) that'd snap if I so much as looked at it wrong toughness is a big thing to me and yeah if this stuff can stand up to the rigors of being gamed with I'm definitely interested in buying some.
If You don't want to have problems with cleaning Your tray You can use plastic food foil. It works for me - just take it off the tray after every use and it will looks like new 😊
As a 3d artist, we are lazy. Sculpt mono poses and then pose them. So, instead of deleting the detail on foot that attaches to the base, we are lazy. Flatening the detail will require remodeling fore the height would also change. Too much work.
Ya as a 3d modeler my self, its much more flexible to have everything completed and from there things can be modified. So for example it would be extremely easy to remove geometry after the default model is completed. Where as re-modeling the same part over and over and over for specific instances is completely inefficient and boring. Also i think its a point of preference as well since it would feel more complete that way and has additional benefits.
this is about the result i expected from warping with gun barrels and what not. since posting that comment my friends had pointed me towards a solution of sorts. it involves getting a cheap metal toolbox from Bunnings and some ceramic disc magnets. the magnets are just thin enough to be glued underneath a mini base, so you can keep the minis upright and away from anything pressing against them during transport. you'll want to be a bit more careful for larger models, but from what i've seen it's a really cheap and great way to transport minis.
As a sculptor, the soles are probably still there because the models were probably from a posable base model that the original artist made to reuse multiple times. The artist probably didn't bother to flatten them though because booleans are a bitch to do.
Artist arent designing miniatures in a pose. They are designed in a T pose or A pose. then they're posed later with an IK sustem. much like when you order models from those make your hero sites. So the artist doesn't know what soles are visible or not and it will vary for different poses. and some people will want the sole visible anyway or will use them for other diorama purposes when it's visible.
re the foot details @3:40 we sculpt them because it saves us time, the running guy is the same model just reposed , you dont sculpt a whole new boot, you just copy paste the previous set or take standing guy and repose him into running guy if you setup your build well and , possibly more importantly intended pose is exactly that the sculptor intends for you to use the model is a certain way, but the user... who knows what they do with it , maybe its a kit bash part or perhaps a base corpse or some meme build.. who knows so you sculpt in all the details so it can be used however someone see's fit
you should not cut towards yourself. i dont know why you want us to tell you since you obviously don't listen to anyone, including yourself. lol the soles of the feet give the glue more surface area to bind with. oh and it looks cool. question for you, does the inside of the clear resin cure on the inside with the uv light? my friend uses grey resin, and the models i have had him print for me always seem to crack and leak. ruining the paint job on the model as well as the details. and if i get it on my hands its nasty. the plant tray is brilliant blue2503. gonna go get one.
with that big tup thingy, you could just put it under the plate like you did and just scrape the prints off without removing the print, I've been doing this recently using one scraper to remove and another very big scraper to catch or my hand in a glove, you need a sharpened scraper to do this though as a blunt one will make the parts go flying when you knock into them
The boot - they sculpt a single model and they pose it. They aren't sculpting each model separately. So you sculpt the whole model once, yes depending on pose some details are hidden.
it may be me but i feel like venting the vat chamber is detrimental to the resin quality. these are liquids with tons of volatile chemicals that keep the material thin and stable but will evaporate into the air over time when the liquid is out of the bottle. when a chamber fills up with these fumes the air becomes over saturated with those volatile chemicals and stops evaporating as much. when you vent the air you remove all the fumes out of the air which allows the resin to "dry" faster.
Generally you sculpt before posing, especially on trooper models like those, so its just faster to leave the foot detail you put there for when it is visible.
i like water washable resins, it just makes the cleaning process so much easier, but though resin looks really good when man handeling models on a table
It will literally take you seconds in the slicer software to cut the feet flat before printing if you plan to base them flat, while letting others that don’t plan on basing them flat still have the details they want.
What you use to clean the models also affects how durable they are. Overexposure to IPA turns ABS-like or tough resins more brittle than they should be. My personal go-to right now is Siraya Tech abs-like, navy blue because it comes in 5KG canisters.
I am a 3d artist, normally what I like to do is to do the model in a T pose or same times in an A pose using symmetry do the same details on both sides of the model, and only after I have finished the detail I pose the character on his pose so the details heps on the right part, that after the pose is done I go on the bends parts and remodel part of the details to finish the model so same parts like the both of the feet keep their texture.
so for the feet. i do it because i rig the model with a skeleton at the end and now i can make as many poses as i want and i dont have to worry about adding details later on. but yeah i understand making it flat but it saves me time when making a model.
I'm not printing miniatures, but I find your content valuable. 😊
At least for me, I'm grateful that they do model the base of the feet. It means I can kitbash a corpse or create unique poses with the mini. Imagine you want to lift them up and add a jump pack. I'd rather remove detail I don't need than be lacking the detail I do.
Especially considering Anvil industries are designed to be completely modular. the combined miniatures in this release were an oddity and were made out of the modular pieces
Thank you so much for this video. There's a lot of people reviewing printer models and making tutorial/FAQ videos, not as much information about resins. And I understand that's difficult; usage case and calibration limits the production of that content. However I believe that you made a great presentation of why you like these resins and the coverage of topics and concerns was comprehensive.
If my living situation changes in the next year I hope to start printing and this has been very helpful.
As an Artist who has sculpted some miniatures I can say that making the feet flat is the way to go when you are modeling for the end user. Maybe an excuse would be that you can always clip the feet into a base while printing to make them flat but I find many people prefer to kit bash IRL as opposed to inside the 3D software, myself included. It's just more fun and satisfying to assemble some kits by hand. I'm definitely going to buy this resin!
Add a slot for a magnet on the bottom of your bases and I'm in.
Sunlu runs sales frequently. I got the Toughness resin on sale for less than $30 US before Christmas.
Honestly I have printed about 8kgs worth of stuff with the SUNLU ABS Like standard grey and man its killer stuff. If the toughness resin is somehow better than that I will have to try it out!
I ended up doing that 10 bottles of SUNLU Toughness, and have gone through about 5 litres so far. I find that the pigment they put in it settles and in a couple of cases left residue. Model quality is very good and you'll probably need to adjust your settings if using other resins like their ABS-like, but overall, love it.
I'd be interested to see your take on Siraya Tech Navy Grey. It's pretty tough (certainly tough enough for wargaming), it prints quickly and the results are gorgeous. It also doesn't have problems with getting gummy on the support side, which I found Elegoo ABS-like 2.0 did quite a lot.
I need a water washable tough resin. The alcohol used for cleaning stinks and is a pain in the neck to handle and dispose of.
I got some sunlu toughness and when printing very fine details it can stretch during printing. Also they do it in a 2kg bottle to make it cheaper
I love this resin. Sadly it can't survive heat and urine. They turn very rubbery bendy soft. But its perfect for action figures :D
Tough Resin Translucent Green is very tough but too flexible for one of my application, however for model train wagon bodies it is amazing. If only I can get supports working properly. Resin leakage took out my Mono 2, waiting for new LCD. The Mono 5s Pro has resin leakage, hmm.
3:10 Laziness. The entire thing is modeled like the Vitruvian man, and then repositioned as needed for variety of poses. smoothing out the feet would be another step in post-proc, probably several hours, and would lead to inconsistent heights across models.
Because not everyone uses a mini exactly how you might, plenty will have a character lying in some other way, or on a flat basing plate without dirt or things as basing. A flat bottomed boot on a metal or concrete slab base looks weird, without the ridges at least visible from the sides. Personally, when I was newer and didn't do much basing, that made my old 3rd/4th edition 40k orks boots look kinda... off... since they were just flat bottomed.
Well, if you have detail there, that person can use it to also put in better footprints in snow or other basing materials as well if leaving prints up till the standing position. So overall, it's just got it's uses for many. Reductive work, aka sanding it down or scraping it takes a few extra seconds generally if someone actually cares about, and frankly with feet of most minis size even boots work just fine with half surface area to hold them to a base unless you are REALLY getting rough with the mini, I've got some in interesting poses with a fraction of that surface area that still hold alright with liberal use of glues.
And for having two versions, one flat bottomed one not... it's often just impractical. Imagine having people download your files, possibly a gig or so of quality detailed infantry... and then doubling that so you have the versions with flat feet... for most people that's annoying to manage that extra files on their hard drive, takes longer to unzip, copy, organize, probably to just delete one of those groups (most likely the flat footed ones since again, they can just modify to that easily themselves if they ever need), and for download bandwidth costs it's not free doubling the servers amount of data for no increase in profit... And do you think you'd go out of your way to buy, between two sets of mini infantry, the one with the optional flat feet version more than the other one, simply because of that? No... I highly doubt it, you'd just stick with the one you thought looked best in general, since flattening feet is a minor issue if even one, and an easy fix in those odd cases.
All this is IMO, but well, you asked.
i like your bases but have you consider putting a hole for magnets?
Definitely considering it!
I see you like the cones. The v3 cones are in beta testing right now if you're interested. They are currently only available on the tff discord server currently until the "official release", but they have some added stuff for dimensional accuracy.
Already on it 😎 They will be making an appearance in the next video
Regular Sunlu resin is ok. Good detail but a bit brittle compared to say elegoo ABS like. Just thought I'd share.
My guess is that they're modeling a generic base that can be applied pre-posed skeletons
Hobby knife from bunnings? A man of culture I see
I need a water washable tough resin. Does one exist?
Wargamer by FauxHammer is a water washable though resin for minis
I bought this resin but my prints keep failing. Stuff keeps sticking to FEP. Exposure at 3 seconds is too low?
Failing to stick to the build plate or failing to stick to the supports? If build plate: increase burn in time to improve adhesion.
Failing to stick to the build plate. What is "burn time?" I used bottom layer count 10, Bottom exposure 50 seconds, regular exposure 6 seconds. the supports that do work are near impossible to remove (heavy auto supports from Chitubox). There was some kind of thin, translucent, sticky substance in places on the screen and bottom of the FEP.@@OnceinaSixSide
Hi Guy, Got your A1 Mini yet?!
Not yet, but close!
Clear resins are stronger, but have worse detail. This is just how the chemistry works, similar to how all tough resins absorb water to some extent.
Omg you shouldn't cut towards yourself like that! What do you mean you have more control, and you are able to spread the work evenly across all of the muscles in your hand so that you are not likely to cut yourself?
uh... you should cut away from yourself, that's pocketknife 101.
BABE WAKE UP ONCE IN A SIX SIDE PUT OUT A NEW RESIN VIDEO
OMG BABE I’M AWAKE
Quit nagging me lol
Professional minis designer here- the thing about things such as soles on boots is simply that, most of the time, those parts are made as an asset for use on multiple model poses and designs, and it's more work to adjust them model-by-model than leave as is. Nothing prevents it being done, but I'd bet it was simply not a step that was thought about among all the other things that have to happen to check a model's pose integrity!
I totally agree as myself being in the 3D sculpt train, unless you know there's gonna be a fix ONE way position done to base I won't make flat surfaces bcs I've modularity and if you have for exemple a running guy one of his foot will be somewhat visible and that extra detail is harder to create than remove :)
another thing to consider is creativity I personnaly really like to add some sort of a padding of milliput under the feets to creat a seemless joint and a cool texure of dirt or whatever terrain I feel like that's a pro tip right there haha
An alternative to the pot base is silicone cooking mats. I got a few super cheap and that’s what I set my plate on when knocking the print off.
I just toss them out in the sun and flex them to get the resin off. Hope that helps someone. Cheers
I know people will shout this down, but if your prints are losing flexibility post curing... then in all likelihood the models weren't fully post-cured and the everyday exposure to UV has finished curing the curing process.
This is why the whole being able to "over-cure" prints is a nonsense... they don't stop being exposed to UV after you remove them from the curing chamber. It stops when there are no more polymer chains/connections to be made... which is purely based on the resin formula.
Obviously UV degradation is also a thing (as with any polymer), but the timescales are very different to those involved in the curing process.
At the end of the day the flexibility/resilience of a resin printed model is just a function of the resin you use
Recent cnc kitchen video on hot curing resin was great.
As far as I've read it's even better to cure it fully by yourself, as since sun contains much more wavelengths of UV, especially UVB and UVC, resulting polymers can be different that ones for which resin was designed, usually more brittle than if you just cured for very long in your UVA curing machine or flashlight.
For the soles thing; often miniatures will be sculpted as a rigged t-pose and then posed for the final piece. As such, if there's any chance a detail in any pose might be visible, you sculpt it.
but in that case after the model has been posed why do they not just flatten the detail out on the floor touching sole?
@@Jam-en8rv Extra workflow for no reason?
Sunlu FTW! It’s my go-to based on printability and cost. Glad it got a shoutout.
The Sunlu ABS is also really durable. Not tried the toughness resin to compare, but Sunlu's ABS it's been better than any other ABS I've tried and def has a fair amount of flex to it. The only downside is that it's a bit more viscous, especially at lower temps so temp control becomes more important.
oh yeah abs like is super nice i think aboud putting 20-30% toughniss into the Sunlu abs
I just emptied my SUNLU water-washable resin bottle and it’s been very good to me. Sturdy with nice details. The next bottle is the SUNLU ABS water-washable. Hope it’s even better.
So far the Sunlu Toughness has been really nice. I think a good mix has been 20-30% Toughness with the ABS-like. I wish they had Toughness clear.
I really like sunlu ABS like ... I have switch to just using it ... Price to performance is number 1 that I have used
@@en4cer Yeah its good stuff. I didn't like the bottle of Nylon-Like or PA, just didn't work for models for me.
As a sculptor, the reason for sculpting the bottom of the feet is simply repeatability. Specifically, I'll sculpt a version that can be posed, and then I can make multiple new poses and versions much easier, and the detail is there if I want to have a raised foot. Admittedly, I do (myself) then trim the bottom of the foot for stability reasons, but I can understand why they wouldn't. Add in the possible use of the model as a casualty, where it wouldn't actually be on a base, and that might help explain it.
Ive heard for years now that sirayatech fast navy grey is the best resin, id be interested in how it compares directly to more modern offering from brands like sunlu.
Sirayatech Smokey Black, Build Resin is my miniature goto.
Haven't seen the most important question asked in comments yet, SMH. Crispy details don't matter if the resin tastes bad! Where's the taste test?
😂
Lol i always cut towards myself
Forgot where I saw it but it's actually been proven to be safer to cut towards yourself because you have far greater control that way based on the ergonomics and which fine muscle groups are used. The "never cut towards itself" was originally just advice for children and somehow mistakenly became defacto advice.
I rather split the skin on my thumb cutting towards myself than tip cutting my other hand if i slip or remove too much material
Rather than saying don't cut towards yourself, I'll say you can get cut resistant thumb sleeves for dirt cheap. Like $5 for a dozen of them. That way you can protect your thumb but still get leverage, and still have the grip and sensitivity of not wearing a full glove.
I like texture on boots cuz if you wanna make a little diorama you easaly can do some footprints. But for wargaming its not so great.
I can't remember who it is offhand but I seem to recall a company that makes modelling parts and accessories doing an assortment of boot prints; literally little dummy boots that you can press into a material on a diorama to make tracks, kind of like some Scooby Doo bad guy setting a fake trail 🤣 They had variations along the lines of "WW2 German Paratrooper" "Modern Russian Infantry", things like that.
Love your videos, but watching that cutting demo was literally pain
🔪
opinion on the M5s pro? Cause I'm looking forward to buy it
My favorite printer, I recently spoke about it at length in a video. I can't remember the title but it's in the thumbnail
Some people use the models for other things that don't need bases, like dioramas.
Now I'm imagining an artist asking for all models to come with a hole so they don't have to break out the drll to put a stick up the butt.
seems unnecessary to make your customers do extra work just to cater to a small minority, especially when you make models for wargaming.
@@Jam-en8rv Fair point!
I got 3 bottles of this because it looked great, but im having trouble getting prints from it. I did accidentally get the white so maybe that's my issue, it seems so thick and when I print a cones of calibration there's nothing on the build plate except maybe the first 1-2 layers. I started with the settings I use for tenacious, and then have been increasing exposure time, up to 3.5 seconds, and still nothing on the plate.
Did you have to make some major changes to print settings to get these to prints so well?
Hmm, sounds like a delamination issue. These resins needed no adjustments to any settings other than normal layer exposure. How's your resin temperature? Should be around 25c ideally.
@OnceinaSixSide I have a resin chamber heater and keep it around 30c. It's just odd, it's like zero curing is taking place except for the initial burn in layers. I don't have this issue with any other resin. Maybe it's the pigments in the white.
I love you but want to give some constructive criticism. I feel like your title and thumbnail combo was too clickbaity. At first I was going to not watch it just because of that but then I realized it was u who posted it so I just wanted to come in to say that. Thank you for all your good content tho
Noted. It's hard to switch off the algorithm brain and just make a straightforward title, but I'll try.
you're the best@@OnceinaSixSide
Is your fentilation system to buy? I´m creating one on my own, but I´m heavily struggling with the design process.
It's completely free :) I made a video on it, and there was an update video on the system released right before this video.
@@OnceinaSixSide 😱 did not See it.
Thank you so much!
1:29 Why? Your being safe... Which in Cub scouts to get the knife badge all you had to do is prove you knew how to be safe... Which all it is is never cut towards oneself unless it's on the same hand and always move that figure/thumb with the blade... The only bit you fail is the last bit as for some reason you don't move your thumb away when the knife moves.
they are not 1 liter they are 1 kg, 1kg = 1L is only true for water
Yep☝️I make this error constantly when speaking casually about resins.
I won't tell you not to cut towards yourself (I do it), but I will tell you about "high flexibility cut resistant tape" or "high-friction guard tape" (used a lot by wood carvers, who are also pushing/pulling sharp knives through occasionally unpredictable material - and where I learned about the stuff) that is super cheap (~$6 for 90'/30m), doesn't really get in the way of dexterity, and finger guards made from it can be easily slid off and reused between sessions; it also improves your grip so tiny smooth parts ping out into the void of the studio less often, saving time searching for parts on the floor [which is honestly a bigger help for me than the cut resistance]. It's not as resistant as a kevlar or chain glove, but it also doesn't suck to use like those do. Also worth noting is that it is called tape, but it has not actual adhesive and only sticks to itself - you never have to deal with gooey adhesive residue on your fingers.
The only reason I can imagine that more people in the hobby aren't using this is because it's something that people aren't aware exists.
I don't care about you cutting towards yourself. What I DO care about though, IS NOT PINNING YOUR MODELS TO THEIR BASES. How do people think that super glue is enough?!
Is the 2.0 the older version? There’s like 3 different Anycubic resins and i want the strongest, Anycubic tough resin, Anycubic tough resin ultra, or Anycubic tough resin 2.0? So confusing
Just get Sunlu Toughness. It's cheaper and its amazing
@@OnceinaSixSide I printing firearms lol I need the best
Another question is the ABS like resin stronger than the ultra? Have you ever tested them ?
No the ABS-Like is not as tough. Tough Ultra and Toughness are about on par with one another, with clear Tough Ultra being the best. But it's pretty pricey!
Glad Im not the only one who gets super excited when you prime and give a quick zenithal to a model and go weeeeeee OMG thats awesome!
I have been using Sunlu ABS-Like exclusively for a couple of years now and love it, they regularly do discounts, especially on Amazon, gonna have to try the tough resin, maybe as a mix.
Bets test for mini's is push it off the table onto a hard floor, did it break?
I am commenting early. When I saw you cutting towards yourself I tamed my inner Karen because of how gorgeously that took to the knife. After years if plastic i have struggled modellinf with resin.
What kind of impact does the flexibility have when it comes to painting the smaller bits? One of the things I've always disliked about the flexible Bones miniatures from Reaper (besides the softer details they often have) is that they can sometimes be TOO flexible, making painting swords and spears a pain -- especially if you want to paint a non-metallic metal style or fine detail work where having the part bounce around from your brush can hinder the process.
In other words, since you're trying to show the flexibility on camera, it's hard to tell how much force you're using to make them bend.
I found basic resin also the same clear resin is more durable then color resin, maybe the color pigment effected the durable
Holy hell that clear turned out amazing. And you didn't notice any light bleed or have to do any crazy settings modification to get it to print well? If that stuff works I will use your link and buy that shit NOW. 😂
As a Texan I very much appreciate the car heat test. Currently awaiting a new screen for my Mars 2 Pro, but both of these resins are damn tempting to purchase as well. Just need to finish off my ABS Like 2.0 😅
Have you tried Wargamer resin? I'm very new to the hobby and the only thing I've printed in so far has been more brittle resins, but stuff like difficult to remove supports has been one of the biggest barriers to getting in and painting. Painted up my first set of Dwarf Guilds minis printed from One Page Rules though!
I usually print with the phrozen 4k (due to it being more flexible than the 8k), but i tried the TGM 7 clear, and it was extremely flexible. I might try the clear anycubic resin.
1. I like the knife. What brand is it or where can I find one.
2. Wouldn't those foot ridges allow for more surface contact with the glue? I tend to score areas where I glue any way to let the glue seep in.
Edit
So glad to see some one taking about sunlu. Have been using it for over a year. Specifically abs like until they came out with that and have been hooked on it since. Id argue its toughness rivals the ones marketed as tough and the bendyness is a high poimt woth it as well. I think for minis thats what we need more than "tough". What happens in a fall ? The mini tends to compress (bend) and break. So if it can take that compression it'll survive. Ive printed big and small. Often donating any misprints to my 6 yr old and they have survived some rough treatment. Would definitely be interested in you applying your big brain to the nylon like. See if im crazy, lucky or correct. 😂.
Judging by its resilience and how it takes a knife, this resin looks really similar to Jamg He Art Engineering resin, which can be picked up for about $31 a liter, or often as low as $25 on sale. Grey Scalp Miniatures did a video on it, and it survived a surprsinging litany of drop tests. It might serve well as a cheaper alternative to this fairly expensive resin.
I got to test SunLu Toughness and now use it exclusively but models get softer in warm weather. You have to cure them at least 3 minutes, which makes them a bit less flexible. I printed top-heavy flying dragons where only the tail is connected to the base and the models collapsed in the summer at about 80 degrees. The actually went nearly back into shape when it cooled off to the upper 60s. On the other hand, the resin is so stretchy you do want it warm and soft to get supports off.
And now I think the resin is hardening over time but I can't exactly be sure if it's just me.
That'd be interesting to have a long-run test on the Sunlu. I tend not too bother and print with standard anycubic which does the job. But when I play with my printed ratmen from One Page Rule, when it comes to play AoS, swords, banners or shields tend to brake really easy, so Sunlu can be interesting.
i still want a printer with two wavelengths, so i can print soluble supports AND plastic resin at the same time.
quick tip. don't use superglue, use a bed of baking powder and then saturate with superglue when the foot in place. Get massive surface area for bonding, and it will never break.
I stopped 3d printing because lychee turned to sh1t, got so frustrated
Does it solve the problem of UV resin softening detail and becoming brittle over time? Whats the gameplan when your minis look like shite in 7-10 years? Just reprint and repaint? I print assemblies and then recast in casting resin which lasts forever.
If you haven't already, try Siraya Tech FAST Navy Grey. It's my go to resin: I would like to hear your opinion!
With the clear vs grey resin, it could be the colouring changing the strength. Because with "natural" traditional ABS vs coloured i find the colours slightly lower strength as well.
Have you tried any phozen resins? Their 8k stuff has been great for me but I am wondering if I should consider switching.
As a sculptor, most troop sculpts are sculpted in a T or A poses first to allow for symmetrical sculpting. Then using this base sculpt you pose it in a stance and save, then a new pose and save, etc. So I'm guessing they sculpt the sole not knowing if it will be viewed or not. I'll keep this suggestion and cut mine flat that are not viewable.
please keep cutting towards yourself. I enjoy knowing that if you have a sharp blade and are doing it with the right pressure and atttention...you will never wind up stabbing yourself.
Looking at this since I'm practically at the point of needing more resin, having started out with Water Washable (yeah sue me) that'd snap if I so much as looked at it wrong toughness is a big thing to me and yeah if this stuff can stand up to the rigors of being gamed with I'm definitely interested in buying some.
If You don't want to have problems with cleaning Your tray You can use plastic food foil. It works for me - just take it off the tray after every use and it will looks like new 😊
As a 3d artist, we are lazy. Sculpt mono poses and then pose them. So, instead of deleting the detail on foot that attaches to the base, we are lazy. Flatening the detail will require remodeling fore the height would also change. Too much work.
Ya as a 3d modeler my self, its much more flexible to have everything completed and from there things can be modified. So for example it would be extremely easy to remove geometry after the default model is completed.
Where as re-modeling the same part over and over and over for specific instances is completely inefficient and boring.
Also i think its a point of preference as well since it would feel more complete that way and has additional benefits.
this is about the result i expected from warping with gun barrels and what not. since posting that comment my friends had pointed me towards a solution of sorts. it involves getting a cheap metal toolbox from Bunnings and some ceramic disc magnets. the magnets are just thin enough to be glued underneath a mini base, so you can keep the minis upright and away from anything pressing against them during transport. you'll want to be a bit more careful for larger models, but from what i've seen it's a really cheap and great way to transport minis.
Goddamn and I JUST got another bottle of the ABS-Like Sunlu resin. Ah well, next time.
Shouldn't cut towards yourself - typed without my thumbs as they're covered in thin cuts from my hobby knife
As a sculptor, the soles are probably still there because the models were probably from a posable base model that the original artist made to reuse multiple times. The artist probably didn't bother to flatten them though because booleans are a bitch to do.
Artist arent designing miniatures in a pose. They are designed in a T pose or A pose. then they're posed later with an IK sustem. much like when you order models from those make your hero sites. So the artist doesn't know what soles are visible or not and it will vary for different poses.
and some people will want the sole visible anyway or will use them for other diorama purposes when it's visible.
re the foot details @3:40
we sculpt them because it saves us time, the running guy is the same model just reposed , you dont sculpt a whole new boot, you just copy paste the previous set or take standing guy and repose him into running guy if you setup your build well
and , possibly more importantly
intended pose
is exactly that
the sculptor intends for you to use the model is a certain way, but the user... who knows what they do with it , maybe its a kit bash part or perhaps a base corpse or some meme build.. who knows
so you sculpt in all the details so it can be used however someone see's fit
Thank goodness. You ever try printing 6mm minis on standard resin? It's nearly impossible.
you should not cut towards yourself. i dont know why you want us to tell you since you obviously don't listen to anyone, including yourself. lol
the soles of the feet give the glue more surface area to bind with. oh and it looks cool.
question for you, does the inside of the clear resin cure on the inside with the uv light? my friend uses grey resin, and the models i have had him print for me always seem to crack and leak. ruining the paint job on the model as well as the details. and if i get it on my hands its nasty.
the plant tray is brilliant blue2503. gonna go get one.
with that big tup thingy, you could just put it under the plate like you did and just scrape the prints off without removing the print, I've been doing this recently using one scraper to remove and another very big scraper to catch or my hand in a glove, you need a sharpened scraper to do this though as a blunt one will make the parts go flying when you knock into them
You may want to check CNC Kitchen's video on heating while curing resin prints; the increase in strength seems pretty significant.
Ameralabs TGM-7 resin is super expensive but really good...
Those models are AWESOME!!! I'm so excited that you are able to feature different artists here!
You shouldn't cut towards yourself.
Enjoy your Engagement.
How does it compare to Sirayatech Tenacious? Does it hold details better? Is it less expensive?
Did you have trouble with models flexing during printing?
Would love to see a review of Elegoo's new 3.0 ABSlike
The boot - they sculpt a single model and they pose it. They aren't sculpting each model separately. So you sculpt the whole model once, yes depending on pose some details are hidden.
it may be me but i feel like venting the vat chamber is detrimental to the resin quality. these are liquids with tons of volatile chemicals that keep the material thin and stable but will evaporate into the air over time when the liquid is out of the bottle. when a chamber fills up with these fumes the air becomes over saturated with those volatile chemicals and stops evaporating as much. when you vent the air you remove all the fumes out of the air which allows the resin to "dry" faster.
The are OUT OF THEIR GODDAMN MINDS if Anycubic thinks ill give them 40 Dollars a liter. OnaSS...how does it taste?
Divine
Generally you sculpt before posing, especially on trooper models like those, so its just faster to leave the foot detail you put there for when it is visible.
i like water washable resins, it just makes the cleaning process so much easier, but though resin looks really good when man handeling models on a table
It will literally take you seconds in the slicer software to cut the feet flat before printing if you plan to base them flat, while letting others that don’t plan on basing them flat still have the details they want.
Can you compare this to Sirayatech Tenacious? That's the real competitor imo and it'd be useful to see a side by side
What you use to clean the models also affects how durable they are. Overexposure to IPA turns ABS-like or tough resins more brittle than they should be.
My personal go-to right now is Siraya Tech abs-like, navy blue because it comes in 5KG canisters.
Dude just put on a couple of band aids on your thumb so you wont slice yourself. Double up on padded side to hinder blade slice.
I am a 3d artist, normally what I like to do is to do the model in a T pose or same times in an A pose using symmetry do the same details on both sides of the model, and only after I have finished the detail I pose the character on his pose so the details heps on the right part, that after the pose is done I go on the bends parts and remodel part of the details to finish the model so same parts like the both of the feet keep their texture.
so for the feet. i do it because i rig the model with a skeleton at the end and now i can make as many poses as i want and i dont have to worry about adding details later on. but yeah i understand making it flat but it saves me time when making a model.