honestly for a beginner i would recommend buy the cheap set, do a cut with each bit so you have a real world example of the result then the ones you are likely to use a lot you buy a decent one of and the ones you might just use once or twice stay in the case in the corner. The reason why is because when people get started out on tools like a router they are overwhelmed by the sheer number of different cutting bits profiles patterns and shapes there are and if you're anything like me you want to have a decent selection that will get you started that way you spend less time waiting for the bit you need to arrive as you discover you need it and more time doing the fun stuff. At the same time you are gaining experience like I said you are finding out first hand which bits do what and which ones you will use the most so you know where to put your money instead of buying a really expensive single hating the cut profile once you use it and wasting the money.
Thats not a bad idea as long as you are ok if the bit messes your edge up. On the cheap ones, if the bearing slips off it digs into your work and you get a gash or a dip in it. It just depends on what you are routing and if you are going to be in trouble if the bit digs into it or not. I wouldn't use it on a nice expensive table top but maybe I'd use one if I'm ripping some base boards.
@@ryry7886 Well It is ultimately dependant on how important what you're doing is and cost vs use and you generally have the right idea. For example I would suggest everyone spend the extra money on lets say a Phillips screwdriver because likely everyone will at some point encounter a screw that is a pain to deal with, so my personal favourites are wera laser tips which I have in PH1 PH2 PZ1 PZ2 which are give or take 9 euro's each or 60 euro's for the set. well I bought the PH1 and 2 first because I see a lot of Phillips screws every day that are difficult to remove (that is important) so I want a screwdriver that is very reliable that I can put a lot of pressure on and it wont cam out and fuck the screw head or break or whatever. However when it comes to PZ I'm typically driving screws in which takes a lot less pressure and I don't use them that much so I can use interchangeable bits which are 10 a penny and got the weras later (I bought a bit set that was branded bosch but it's sadly a rebrand of a generic set however it has lasted daily use for 2 years so far) and that generic set is basically what these router bits are you probably wont use them all but you have them. I would generally recommend everyone get a really good straight cutter with no bearing one with a bearing on top and one with a bearing on the bottom 1 or 2 dovetail cutters in different sizes and maybe a thin slot cutter and that is about it plus you have an emergency backup of all those I mentioned IN this set with those in mind you might pay the cost of this set alone twice and you're pretty much sorted for whatever may come. I do want to point out though, I actually have the yellow version of this set (I think it's the bigger shank size) from amazon, as long as you stone the edges now and then and run the correct feeds and speeds (you can trial and error that tbh) they've actually not given me any problems and those caveats I would apply to any router bit really...I admittedly do not use my router every day so it is tough to say if I did they might break down but again it is not as simple as buy once cry once spend the money on individual pieces that you will use every day for god sake do not waste money on big sexy quality tool sets (for example 200+piece socket sets) only to use less than a quarter of it EVER because then you really will be crying just have a real think and buy them in order of importance and you'll be laughing remember you have your entire life to build up your tool set you don't need to do it all in one day.
Well I bought a Bosch router and some cheap bits in a fancy case. I also have a set of Bosch bits. Both set perform fine and fit the collets fine. I give them a hard time and experience no burning or any problem whatsoever.
@@omarjcool Not true. Climb cuts should only be used in very very light passes to leave a clean finish. You do it on a deeper pass it tries pulling the router along it can cause tear out or the fibers in the wood and it will often burn the wood and make you bobel. If making to deep of a pass it can be dangerous and try to jump out of your hand. Plus it dulls bits using them backwards!!!!! I think maybe you need to go back to shop class or read a freaking manual.
@@omarjcool Well the climb cut made in this film that you was okay with was very wrong. So Don't act like I just reinforced what you said as your statement had Zero detail to when a climb cut might be okay. It certainly was not okay in this video or 95% or the time a router is used..
You can probably almost always get better by buying expensive, but it is not guaranteed nor is it easy to know how much more expensive is sufficient. Buying too cheap or too expensive you end up wasting money.
This bit set is not 1/4" they are slightly under as the mire commin size of 6mm in Asia. They are for palm trimmers (not routers) and so, unfortunately they are 6mm - there is the problem. I live in Asia and I had to buy a collet for 6.3mm bits I purchased in the UK to work in my palm trimmer. Now i have a 6mm collet, 6.3mm collet and 8mm collet to cover all my bits. The bit set reviewed I own (the exact one in the posh case) and when used with the right collet works great. I get burn marks if i use them with 6.3mm collet (if Iforget or if im too lazy to change) but apart from that, for super cheap bits they do great. Used correctly, they do what they are designed for. The problem unfortunately is the retailer advertising them as 1/4 inch and not worrying about the extra 0.3mm. As if this was a manufacturing error!
Yes, that is why the router is wobbling all over the place, you can tell immediately from the cut. He applies the router in a careless haphazard fashion. And why is the plank sticking out like that ? It needs to be better attached along a firm surface rather than outwards. If he was using a more powerful router it would be quite dangerous. So many things wrong with this presentation !
As a new wood worker I bought these cheap a bit sets, I did a bit of due diligence and bought the better reviewed selection. I did this so I know which bits I use most and replace them with more premium bits. And yes, Iv found similar issues to yourself with the set
I have a set of SKIL router bits. They aren’t terrible, the shanks all fit in my collet and tighten down, and they’re reasonably sharp and leave a decent finish. My only complain is the guide bearings aren’t as tight as they could be but I haven’t found they cause a huge issue
IMO if your new to routing the kits are a really good idea. Of course the quality sucks, if you expect quality for peanuts then your a peanut. A lot of people who have just got a router don't really know what router bits they will need. With a kit like this you will discover which ones you find useful and which ones you never use. Then you can go out and spend serious money on good quality bits knowing that you are going to get good use out of them. Also, they give you a good understanding of what the difference is between a cheap bit and a quality bit. I got a kit similar to this (35 bits) and it was a great investment saved me hundreds of dollars because I knew exactly which quality bits to buy for the things I work on..
I got a similar set that I've been using for months and they work great. I've bought a few other single cheap bits and they work great. I'm glad I didn't get screwed.
This is why I learned how to sharpen everything. I've purchased tons of cheap bits and found that on the money you save, some "assembly" may be required. I enjoy sharpening things, it takes alot of time though. You get what you pay for always, especially online.
I agree, cheap items that cut, hurt people. Having said that, there is the that demographic that just cannot afford the beautiful balance of a Diablo. On the econo line I have had good luck with Yonico bits. While they don't stay sharp as long, if you want to be a chipper learn to sharpen (Pick up a 400/100 Sharp Pebble whet stone for 15$). I take a pass over every bit every use, as well as chisels, drill bits, blades etc. If nothing else it cleans it and check for damage that could cause injury. When I use a bit or a blade or chisel I drop it in the sharpen pile. When the wife makes me watch TV, I sit there and sharpen. The Yonico's are about the only cheapies I have had luck with, had some other brands break on first use and not chuck up right. Thought I would share on the Yonico's for those budgeters wanting to run some routes. Cheers Mates!
I got a 1/4 and a 1/2 in shank set. I have had them a while. The 1/4 in is blue and I did have one bearing go out but it lasted for several years and the set around 20 bucks for 24. I recently picked up a yellow set of 35 bits for 36 bucks and I have not used them all but they seem just fine to me. I have several router lock bits and a few other molding like bits I have bought in yellow from amazon and even Just got a 10 piece from Temu outside of the bearing on the one cheap blue set I could not be happier. Of course I use my router in the correct direction for feed and do not do climb cuts down the edge of plywood and blame the bit for the imperfect and burned edge. Look at 2:19 ro 2:24 That is a climb cut you need to feed the board on the other side of the router and go against the grain or rotation of the tool rather
Yeah I bought that exact set too, was when I was first learning what a router did and the different shapes bits made. They lasted about a month and only got used on practice timber (soft wood) no hard wood or expensive types of timber. Went from them to Carbitool bits.Your right good bits make all the difference.
I bought the 15 piece bosch .25 shaft for 69.00 plus tax but I from watching RUclips videos I’ve come to appreciate the reviews. I did buy a yonica set of 15 1/2” bits from the depot and I haven’t used them yet. So I only went by the reviews hopefully they aren’t crap. But as one person said you can replace the ones you use frequently with a quality product.
I have two sets of the yellow ones in both 1/2" and 1/4". They work good for me. I choose ones with reviews that don't have compensated reviews. Saw these red ones and passed them. Not everything in red is good.
Last week my old 1/4" straight router bit wore out after hundreds of feet... Vermont American, IIRC. I bought a Freud, and bang, it broke in the first soft pine board. Got a Yonico, it's done over 100' without a problem. It was razor-sharp, and a little grabby but broke in nicely after 8-10'.
Awesome video! I'm still laughing at "They Suck" At Least you only threw the bit. I do shit like throw my router across the shop. Appreciate you taking the time to give us honest reviews my friend.
Great informative video. So far so good for me. But I didn't buy any of those dime a dozen router bits. I did buy a few bits off of Amazon and so far I have not had any issues. Thanks again, Barry
Plywood is one of the "hardest" materials on your router bits next to mdf...also, try going the correct way when routing, you may get better results....I have thought about buying this exact set, thanks for the heads up
Great Review brother, I bought a nice set of craftsman bits back in the day made in the USA and still are going strong. But they werent' 25.00 LOL.....
Glad I came across this video. I'm looking to purchase some router bits very soon glad I didn't pick up a set like this that I found on eBay. I'm going to be buying a DeWalt router what bits would you recommend? Are the DeWalt bits good? Bosh bits?
so far I am a fan of Whiteside router bits ($15-$30 each depending on bits). I only buy the bits that I want (was going to say need but just couldn't bring my self to lie like that :-)
There are British standard shank sizes 6mm,8mm and 12mm americans standards are 1/4 inch, 1/2 inch etc .. when converting 1/4 inch to mm you get 6.35mm ---and --- > 6mm to inch 0.23622 littlebit less than 1/4 inch 1/2inch to mm you get 12.7mm (not 12mm). :::::::::::::::::---------------------------- I faced the same issue and then I realized this and same with table saw blade Saw Blades:::::::::::------------------------ 10inch amercian standard blades ---- convert to mm you get 254mm 250mm british standard --- convert to inches you get 9.84252inch I think thats why!
I got a set similar to this but in blue, the problems i find with them is most that have bearings on are way off center so the bit wobbles putting ripples in the cut, the straight line cutters are not to bad but mostly all the bits are blunt as a badgers bum or will become blunt if you go to fast with them, the worse one is the dovetail cutter it burns through rather than cut a groove no matter how slow you go, your better off paying more and get a decent set.
I think cheap bits have their place, the straight bits I use for hogging out mortises etc... yeah, I go for the cheapies. It's not accurate work. Anything guided though or for finish purposes like roundovers etc - go for a brand name at least.
I've always spent more money for the Freud router bits and never had a problem. I also have a set of 12 cheaper ones from Rockler but they were still $100.00 for the set and are just ok. I also like shopping at MLCS but again, they are more expensive and have good quality bits. Thanks for sharing. Cheers Clint!
Great review as always. I personally prefer to save up and buy one good "RED" brand router bit for 25.00, 30.00 bucks because I know it will get used, and will perform beautifully. No point in investing in a bunch of cheap bits, many of which you will never use.
I got this router bits too, but the front case are transparent, they looks the same bit. So, i use the straight bit the small size 1/4” i guess, so i slowly trimming on 9mm MDF, suddenly the bit just broke, luckily it didn’t caught me.. and also about the fillet bit, i got the burn marks too and chip cracks on my project.
Good video and advice my first set of router bits were a set. I got at Searrrs for 14 dollars I did Woodworking as a hobby for over 35 years and professionally for 25 despite that Sears set not being Carbide tipped and just HSS and sharpened many times I still have all of them and on very rare occasions will use one of course I now own hundreds of dollars worth of other Carbide tipped ones most of which are Amanda brand that I found is a good product for the price and yes you are correct I do have some router bits I’ve paid in excess of fifty dollars per bit
Just buy a in-between affordable bit set and use it for a while. You'll know after some time what kinds of bits you use the most, once those wear out, just re-buy them in higher quality brands.
Here we have a budget brand that goes for about the equivalent of $50 for 12 bits. A 24 bit set is a little over $100. So undoubtedly not premium, but probably of adequate quality.
Buy a quality bit that's needed for your current project. If you're starting off you're more then likely following a how-to. If your following a how to they'll let you know in the video that size bit you want. Just buy a good quality bit for that specific project and then you'll have it ready for the next time you need it. Unless you're doing more then 5 projects a month that all require different bits i don't see how you'll end up spending a lot of money this way. Most of us are doing this on our spare time and aren't in the workshop all day finding new problems that could be solved with a very specific bit.
Yeah 20 bucks for a ehh case. I got lucky bought a new 2nd hand 36 piece set at a flea market paid less the dollar but they retailed at 4$ each even at that price your getting low grade but as I upgraded I get better ones. Good video man.
I get it. You get what you pay for. But you can only pay for what you can afford and should only pay for what you need. I bought a set of those cheap bits for my cheap router a few years back, and never had any problem. Now, full disclosure, each of those bits has less than five hours on them, and probably won't have all that much more in the future. I occasionally need a router. Occasionally. Never route anything over two feet long. I make a picture frame for my wife once in a while, and I do so kicking and screaming, with much procrastination. Paying fifty bucks for a single bit that gets twenty minutes of use a year doesn't make much sense either.
why are rebate bits so expensive and they don't offer any different guides for them on screwfix or toolstation only want a rebate bit with some different sizes
Expensive bits come in crappy, or no, cases. Send $20 on the cheap Ines to get the good case, then replace then all with Freud, Bosch, etc. Its worth thr $20.
Not all cheap bits on Amazon are bad. I do normally stick to known, good brands, but I've bought several bits of some unheard of brands and have only been seriously disappointed once. With Amazon's great return process, there's no reason not to try some of the lesser known. If you're too lazy to return bad products, that's on you.
That's why I hate buying stuff online Could you try to return stuff it's such a headache I cost you sometimes more money Lisa retailer there's some recourse you take care of him and keep up the great work cheers with a beer
I dont understand why people run into this trap without thinking logical. I dont understand why you complain about these bits. You should already know that anything cheap means it has its flaws !!! So when you buy those kind of cheaps things ( I mean %90 of them) from aliexpress or amazon or whatever, expect them to be a bad product !!! so don't complain about it. It's absolutely your fault !! I was thinking about buying these sets, but then I thought about the risks and gone buying just the ones I need for testing for a cheaper price. And I never buy anything if there is no comment about the product. And if there isn't, I go and check other similar products because they're forged in the same place with other brand name. Well anyway thanks for the video, this is helpful for other people who doesn't know to choose products from the internet ;)
Guys, you know where are you wrong. These router bits are not 1/4 in. These are 6 mm. 1/4 in is 6.35 mm. But you are measuring with caliper in inch and it shows 1/4 in but it's not. Measure in mm and you'll see 6 mm, not 6,35. I bought 1/4 in router bits and they are too big for my one hand Bosch router. For 0.35 mm. You missmatch metric and imperial measures
I don't have unlimited money. I will buy what I can afford. I would never be able to buy the fancy name brand version of every tool or accessory. This video is old, but there are plenty of router bit sets with quite a lot of reviews nowadays, so perhaps there are more options. I can't afford to buy one single bit when a whole case costs the same. So they won't last as long, but I'll get more variety. If you do this for a living, then obviously the high investment cost might be worth it, but not when you're just a regular guy who needs to use a router every once in a while.
Can there be quality tools at "cheap" prices? Yes. But is every tool from the cheap brand going to be that way? No. Harbor Freight makes about a dozen tools where their performance either outshines Snap-on or is great quality enough that mechanics will use - like their 1/2" breaker bar. Same thing with Ryobi, their AirStrike Brad Nailer is among the best in the market. But you have to do your research to figure that out. Why is it that every pro woodworker don't buy 30 bits for $50? Cause they know the bit won't stay as sharp in the long run.
cheap bits for cheap routers.. and there seems to be more and more of them lately... maybe a 6mm collet instead of a 1/4 inch one would grip them, at the end of the day if you buy cheap you cant expect much
Just curious about something if anybody happens to see this why cant he grind the shaft a little to fit or think of a way to bulk up the shaft (Dont know if that would work) I have a set of these shitty bits on the way but I feel like with a little but of determination and a days work they can be made better by the one who owns them
honestly for a beginner i would recommend buy the cheap set, do a cut with each bit so you have a real world example of the result then the ones you are likely to use a lot you buy a decent one of and the ones you might just use once or twice stay in the case in the corner. The reason why is because when people get started out on tools like a router they are overwhelmed by the sheer number of different cutting bits profiles patterns and shapes there are and if you're anything like me you want to have a decent selection that will get you started that way you spend less time waiting for the bit you need to arrive as you discover you need it and more time doing the fun stuff. At the same time you are gaining experience like I said you are finding out first hand which bits do what and which ones you will use the most so you know where to put your money instead of buying a really expensive single hating the cut profile once you use it and wasting the money.
Very sensible comment, thanks
Thats not a bad idea as long as you are ok if the bit messes your edge up. On the cheap ones, if the bearing slips off it digs into your work and you get a gash or a dip in it. It just depends on what you are routing and if you are going to be in trouble if the bit digs into it or not. I wouldn't use it on a nice expensive table top but maybe I'd use one if I'm ripping some base boards.
@@ryry7886 Well It is ultimately dependant on how important what you're doing is and cost vs use and you generally have the right idea. For example I would suggest everyone spend the extra money on lets say a Phillips screwdriver because likely everyone will at some point encounter a screw that is a pain to deal with, so my personal favourites are wera laser tips which I have in PH1 PH2 PZ1 PZ2 which are give or take 9 euro's each or 60 euro's for the set. well I bought the PH1 and 2 first because I see a lot of Phillips screws every day that are difficult to remove (that is important) so I want a screwdriver that is very reliable that I can put a lot of pressure on and it wont cam out and fuck the screw head or break or whatever. However when it comes to PZ I'm typically driving screws in which takes a lot less pressure and I don't use them that much so I can use interchangeable bits which are 10 a penny and got the weras later (I bought a bit set that was branded bosch but it's sadly a rebrand of a generic set however it has lasted daily use for 2 years so far) and that generic set is basically what these router bits are you probably wont use them all but you have them.
I would generally recommend everyone get a really good straight cutter with no bearing one with a bearing on top and one with a bearing on the bottom 1 or 2 dovetail cutters in different sizes and maybe a thin slot cutter and that is about it plus you have an emergency backup of all those I mentioned IN this set with those in mind you might pay the cost of this set alone twice and you're pretty much sorted for whatever may come.
I do want to point out though, I actually have the yellow version of this set (I think it's the bigger shank size) from amazon, as long as you stone the edges now and then and run the correct feeds and speeds (you can trial and error that tbh) they've actually not given me any problems and those caveats I would apply to any router bit really...I admittedly do not use my router every day so it is tough to say if I did they might break down but again it is not as simple as buy once cry once spend the money on individual pieces that you will use every day for god sake do not waste money on big sexy quality tool sets (for example 200+piece socket sets) only to use less than a quarter of it EVER because then you really will be crying just have a real think and buy them in order of importance and you'll be laughing remember you have your entire life to build up your tool set you don't need to do it all in one day.
Well I bought a Bosch router and some cheap bits in a fancy case. I also have a set of Bosch bits. Both set perform fine and fit the collets fine. I give them a hard time and experience no burning or any problem whatsoever.
Burn marks? Looks like wood grain to me. Also, I believe when going around the outside edge, you should be going counter clockwise.
@@omarjcoolthere actually is a “right” direction
@@omarjcool Not true. Climb cuts should only be used in very very light passes to leave a clean finish. You do it on a deeper pass it tries pulling the router along it can cause tear out or the fibers in the wood and it will often burn the wood and make you bobel. If making to deep of a pass it can be dangerous and try to jump out of your hand. Plus it dulls bits using them backwards!!!!! I think maybe you need to go back to shop class or read a freaking manual.
@@omarjcool Well the climb cut made in this film that you was okay with was very wrong. So Don't act like I just reinforced what you said as your statement had Zero detail to when a climb cut might be okay. It certainly was not okay in this video or 95% or the time a router is used..
2:19 Routing the wrong way. Good vid tho
This is what I always say - spend more money on tools and cry once at the checkout line, or buy cheap tools and cry every time you use them.
You can probably almost always get better by buying expensive, but it is not guaranteed nor is it easy to know how much more expensive is sufficient. Buying too cheap or too expensive you end up wasting money.
This bit set is not 1/4" they are slightly under as the mire commin size of 6mm in Asia. They are for palm trimmers (not routers) and so, unfortunately they are 6mm - there is the problem.
I live in Asia and I had to buy a collet for 6.3mm bits I purchased in the UK to work in my palm trimmer. Now i have a 6mm collet, 6.3mm collet and 8mm collet to cover all my bits.
The bit set reviewed I own (the exact one in the posh case) and when used with the right collet works great. I get burn marks if i use them with 6.3mm collet (if Iforget or if im too lazy to change) but apart from that, for super cheap bits they do great.
Used correctly, they do what they are designed for. The problem unfortunately is the retailer advertising them as 1/4 inch and not worrying about the extra 0.3mm. As if this was a manufacturing error!
You're going backward on your cut. Always go against the bit's rotation. Outside cuts are CCW... inside is CW.
Thought I was the only one that noticed that.
I thought so too at first. It's a mirrored shot. The router would have jerked all over if he was climb cutting.
ops lol lol
But wouldn't the lettering on the router ("RIDGID") be back-to-front in a mirrored shot?
Yes, that is why the router is wobbling all over the place, you can tell immediately from the cut. He applies the router in a careless haphazard fashion. And why is the plank sticking out like that ? It needs to be better attached along a firm surface rather than outwards. If he was using a more powerful router it would be quite dangerous. So many things wrong with this presentation !
As a new wood worker I bought these cheap a bit sets, I did a bit of due diligence and bought the better reviewed selection. I did this so I know which bits I use most and replace them with more premium bits. And yes, Iv found similar issues to yourself with the set
I have a set of SKIL router bits. They aren’t terrible, the shanks all fit in my collet and tighten down, and they’re reasonably sharp and leave a decent finish. My only complain is the guide bearings aren’t as tight as they could be but I haven’t found they cause a huge issue
IMO if your new to routing the kits are a really good idea. Of course the quality sucks, if you expect quality for peanuts then your a peanut. A lot of people who have just got a router don't really know what router bits they will need. With a kit like this you will discover which ones you find useful and which ones you never use. Then you can go out and spend serious money on good quality bits knowing that you are going to get good use out of them. Also, they give you a good understanding of what the difference is between a cheap bit and a quality bit. I got a kit similar to this (35 bits) and it was a great investment saved me hundreds of dollars because I knew exactly which quality bits to buy for the things I work on..
I got a similar set that I've been using for months and they work great. I've bought a few other single cheap bits and they work great. I'm glad I didn't get screwed.
This is why I learned how to sharpen everything. I've purchased tons of cheap bits and found that on the money you save, some "assembly" may be required. I enjoy sharpening things, it takes alot of time though. You get what you pay for always, especially online.
I agree, cheap items that cut, hurt people. Having said that, there is the that demographic that just cannot afford the beautiful balance of a Diablo. On the econo line I have had good luck with Yonico bits. While they don't stay sharp as long, if you want to be a chipper learn to sharpen (Pick up a 400/100 Sharp Pebble whet stone for 15$). I take a pass over every bit every use, as well as chisels, drill bits, blades etc. If nothing else it cleans it and check for damage that could cause injury. When I use a bit or a blade or chisel I drop it in the sharpen pile. When the wife makes me watch TV, I sit there and sharpen. The Yonico's are about the only cheapies I have had luck with, had some other brands break on first use and not chuck up right.
Thought I would share on the Yonico's for those budgeters wanting to run some routes. Cheers Mates!
I’ve been wondering about the yonico! Thanks
I got a 1/4 and a 1/2 in shank set. I have had them a while. The 1/4 in is blue and I did have one bearing go out but it lasted for several years and the set around 20 bucks for 24. I recently picked up a yellow set of 35 bits for 36 bucks and I have not used them all but they seem just fine to me. I have several router lock bits and a few other molding like bits I have bought in yellow from amazon and even Just got a 10 piece from Temu outside of the bearing on the one cheap blue set I could not be happier. Of course I use my router in the correct direction for feed and do not do climb cuts down the edge of plywood and blame the bit for the imperfect and burned edge. Look at 2:19 ro 2:24 That is a climb cut you need to feed the board on the other side of the router and go against the grain or rotation of the tool rather
Thanks for the heads up! A bit falling out while running 22k rpm would be pretty damn dangerous,,,, I'm already missing a finger,,, FROM A ROUTER!
Ouch...they can be scary as hell. Especially if you try to dry run a template with dull blade. I've had a few scares myself
Yeah I bought that exact set too, was when I was first learning what a router did and the different shapes bits made. They lasted about a month and only got used on practice timber (soft wood) no hard wood or expensive types of timber. Went from them to Carbitool bits.Your right good bits make all the difference.
I bought the 15 piece bosch .25 shaft for 69.00 plus tax but I from watching RUclips videos I’ve come to appreciate the reviews. I did buy a yonica set of 15 1/2” bits from the depot and I haven’t used them yet. So I only went by the reviews hopefully they aren’t crap. But as one person said you can replace the ones you use frequently with a quality product.
I have two sets of the yellow ones in both 1/2" and 1/4". They work good for me. I choose ones with reviews that don't have compensated reviews. Saw these red ones and passed them. Not everything in red is good.
True that!!
What brands are the best ones?
Last week my old 1/4" straight router bit wore out after hundreds of feet... Vermont American, IIRC. I bought a Freud, and bang, it broke in the first soft pine board. Got a Yonico, it's done over 100' without a problem. It was razor-sharp, and a little grabby but broke in nicely after 8-10'.
Great content! Thanks for looking out for us!
Thanks brother
I guess I'm kinda randomly asking but do anybody know a good place to stream new movies online?
@Darius Princeton I watch on Flixzone. Just search on google for it =)
Harbor Freight is the absolute best place to obtain cheap router bits that work. Cheers!
your first cut was a climb cut with un clamped wood, that's why it was a sloppy cut.
Or a mirrored shot of what he was doing.
@@jestinloveday584 just guessing, but I think it's a climb cut because the text on screen (on tools) isn't flipped.
Awesome video! I'm still laughing at "They Suck" At Least you only threw the bit. I do shit like throw my router across the shop. Appreciate you taking the time to give us honest reviews my friend.
Thanks Jestin!!!
Great informative video. So far so good for me. But I didn't buy any of those dime a dozen router bits. I did buy a few bits off of Amazon and so far I have not had any issues.
Thanks again,
Barry
Any recommendation on the brand that has good quality
Bought the $9.99 set from Harbor Freight. I’ll see what I use and get the Diablo versions of those.
Freud is my go-to brand. I think I read somewhere they actually make their OWN carbide. Solid bits but yeah, pricey. You get what you pay for.
Yes, cheap bits are hit and miss as are cheap routers.
Just FYI. Try routing in the opposite direction than shown in your video.
Thanks for sharing.
Plywood is one of the "hardest" materials on your router bits next to mdf...also, try going the correct way when routing, you may get better results....I have thought about buying this exact set, thanks for the heads up
That sucks that they don't fit in the collet. I guess you get what you pay for. Did you try routing counter clockwise? Did it make a difference?
Not sure as I don't remember, but I did buy a set to replace these from Harbor Freight and really like them a lot. Great price too.
Great Review brother, I bought a nice set of craftsman bits back in the day made in the USA and still are going strong. But they werent' 25.00 LOL.....
This is sooo true! Got a set at harbor freight , and they are the worst, I’d even say unusable. Never again!
Glad I came across this video. I'm looking to purchase some router bits very soon glad I didn't pick up a set like this that I found on eBay.
I'm going to be buying a DeWalt router what bits would you recommend? Are the DeWalt bits good? Bosh bits?
I actually have a video this weekend coming with some of the best router bits ever made. Probably be up on the channel tomorrow 👊👊
I usually get my router bits from bitsbits or rockler. I did use the Ryobi bits for awhile and I don't really have any complaints about those either.
Awesome feedback, thanks Buffalo!
Where can I get spiral compression bits for under $100?
so far I am a fan of Whiteside router bits ($15-$30 each depending on bits). I only buy the bits that I want (was going to say need but just couldn't bring my self to lie like that :-)
I just starting in woodworking and untreated in.toymaking and want good bits what you recommend
Look at the bright side. You got the fancy dancy case, right? Thank you for the review. It is gonna save a lot of people money.
Haha, it is pretty shiney lol.
Do you have a recommendation for bits on amazon or ali Express? Im not living in the us and it seems like the bits here are very very expensive thanks
So what are the router bits brands that you suggest?
Diablo 👊
@@ToolReviewZone Thanks!
There are British standard shank sizes 6mm,8mm and 12mm
americans standards are 1/4 inch, 1/2 inch etc ..
when converting 1/4 inch to mm you get 6.35mm
---and --- > 6mm to inch 0.23622 littlebit less than 1/4 inch
1/2inch to mm you get 12.7mm (not 12mm).
:::::::::::::::::----------------------------
I faced the same issue and then I realized this and same with table saw blade
Saw Blades:::::::::::------------------------
10inch amercian standard blades ---- convert to mm you get 254mm
250mm british standard --- convert to inches you get 9.84252inch
I think thats why!
I say buy a cheap set from harbor freight then buy amana or whiteside bits in singles for the bits you use often.
I got a set similar to this but in blue, the problems i find with them is most that have bearings on are way off center so the bit wobbles putting ripples in the cut, the straight line cutters are not to bad but mostly all the bits are blunt as a badgers bum or will become blunt if you go to fast with them, the worse one is the dovetail cutter it burns through rather than cut a groove no matter how slow you go, your better off paying more and get a decent set.
I think cheap bits have their place, the straight bits I use for hogging out mortises etc... yeah, I go for the cheapies. It's not accurate work.
Anything guided though or for finish purposes like roundovers etc - go for a brand name at least.
I've always spent more money for the Freud router bits and never had a problem. I also have a set of 12 cheaper ones from Rockler but they were still $100.00 for the set and are just ok. I also like shopping at MLCS but again, they are more expensive and have good quality bits. Thanks for sharing. Cheers Clint!
Great review as always. I personally prefer to save up and buy one good "RED" brand router bit for 25.00, 30.00 bucks because I know it will get used, and will perform beautifully. No point in investing in a bunch of cheap bits, many of which you will never use.
Thanks Gregg, and I agree bro👊
Hi brother
What caliper brand do you use?
What bits brand is this one,??there's a lot on amazon. .
I got this router bits too, but the front case are transparent, they looks the same bit. So, i use the straight bit the small size 1/4” i guess, so i slowly trimming on 9mm MDF, suddenly the bit just broke, luckily it didn’t caught me.. and also about the fillet bit, i got the burn marks too and chip cracks on my project.
All my routerbits are a yellow brand and i have Ryobi router. Is it a good fagr
Had the same issue. Ryobi's official bits was great. 🥰 The 100 euro one with 50 pcs..... 😐
Forget the suck. Those things are a safety hazard.
Ok there is another collet insert for the bits that don’t fit. These bits actually work fine. But do whatever floats your boat.
Good video and advice my first set of router bits were a set. I got at Searrrs for 14 dollars I did Woodworking as a hobby for over 35 years and professionally for 25 despite that Sears set not being Carbide tipped and just HSS and sharpened many times I still have all of them and on very rare occasions will use one of course I now own hundreds of dollars worth of other Carbide tipped ones most of which are Amanda brand that I found is a good product for the price and yes you are correct I do have some router bits I’ve paid in excess of fifty dollars per bit
Just buy a in-between affordable bit set and use it for a while. You'll know after some time what kinds of bits you use the most, once those wear out, just re-buy them in higher quality brands.
👍🇬🇧 I have 1/2” shank Trend set. Been ok so far
Good info Clint! Thanks for the video brother.
Thanks Coptool!
Great timing again. I just picked up the Ridgid compact router today. I need some bits. Nice video
Haha, glad I could help bro. Let me know how you like the router!!!
@@ToolReviewZone yeah, I sure will. I have a lot to get to. I still need to give that blade a good run. Thanks again by the way.
@@johnrice9121 you got it buddy!!!
Bought a cheap miter lock bit... 3 days trying everything and no decent joints. I think the cutter are not perpendicular to the shaft.
Nice beginning DIY video on cheap router bits. Good common sense, real world stuff. Thanks!
Thanks Brian!!!
This is how all reviews should be...NO BULLSHIT! Stay away from paid/sponsored reviews. Thanks for doing what you do.
Thanks for the comment righthook!
@@ToolReviewZone Subscribed 👍
@@righthook27 thanks bro and welcome to the channel!👊
For the few bits that works and that case, you got your money's worth.
You had me cracking up with the SUCK's lol great video, I think I'm gonna listen too and not get cheap bits ;) Thanks for posting, good job!
Here we have a budget brand that goes for about the equivalent of $50 for 12 bits. A 24 bit set is a little over $100. So undoubtedly not premium, but probably of adequate quality.
Buy a quality bit that's needed for your current project. If you're starting off you're more then likely following a how-to. If your following a how to they'll let you know in the video that size bit you want. Just buy a good quality bit for that specific project and then you'll have it ready for the next time you need it. Unless you're doing more then 5 projects a month that all require different bits i don't see how you'll end up spending a lot of money this way. Most of us are doing this on our spare time and aren't in the workshop all day finding new problems that could be solved with a very specific bit.
Yeah 20 bucks for a ehh case. I got lucky bought a new 2nd hand 36 piece set at a flea market paid less the dollar but they retailed at 4$ each even at that price your getting low grade but as I upgraded I get better ones. Good video man.
I get it. You get what you pay for. But you can only pay for what you can afford and should only pay for what you need. I bought a set of those cheap bits for my cheap router a few years back, and never had any problem. Now, full disclosure, each of those bits has less than five hours on them, and probably won't have all that much more in the future. I occasionally need a router. Occasionally. Never route anything over two feet long. I make a picture frame for my wife once in a while, and I do so kicking and screaming, with much procrastination. Paying fifty bucks for a single bit that gets twenty minutes of use a year doesn't make much sense either.
why are rebate bits so expensive and they don't offer any different guides for them on screwfix or toolstation only want a rebate bit with some different sizes
Expensive bits come in crappy, or no, cases. Send $20 on the cheap Ines to get the good case, then replace then all with Freud, Bosch, etc. Its worth thr $20.
Not all cheap bits on Amazon are bad. I do normally stick to known, good brands, but I've bought several bits of some unheard of brands and have only been seriously disappointed once. With Amazon's great return process, there's no reason not to try some of the lesser known. If you're too lazy to return bad products, that's on you.
Thanks brother 👍👍
That's why I hate buying stuff online
Could you try to return stuff it's such a headache I cost you sometimes more money Lisa retailer there's some recourse you take care of him and keep up the great work cheers with a beer
Exactly bro
This video would have been more useful if it had been for one of the many sets that have hundreds of reviews in the $20 to $40 range.
What's one more review going to tell you that the last several hundred didn't?
Like button smooshed. Bosch bits are good?
Thanks true-blue!!!
Thank you
Thanks.
Great video and information TRZ Brother
I dont understand why people run into this trap without thinking logical. I dont understand why you complain about these bits. You should already know that anything cheap means it has its flaws !!! So when you buy those kind of cheaps things ( I mean %90 of them) from aliexpress or amazon or whatever, expect them to be a bad product !!! so don't complain about it. It's absolutely your fault !! I was thinking about buying these sets, but then I thought about the risks and gone buying just the ones I need for testing for a cheaper price. And I never buy anything if there is no comment about the product. And if there isn't, I go and check other similar products because they're forged in the same place with other brand name. Well anyway thanks for the video, this is helpful for other people who doesn't know to choose products from the internet ;)
I bought the Kowood 71 piece set. They SUCK. The bits literally came apart when using them for the first time! Buy good bits folks.
Guys, you know where are you wrong. These router bits are not 1/4 in. These are 6 mm. 1/4 in is 6.35 mm. But you are measuring with caliper in inch and it shows 1/4 in but it's not. Measure in mm and you'll see 6 mm, not 6,35. I bought 1/4 in router bits and they are too big for my one hand Bosch router. For 0.35 mm. You missmatch metric and imperial measures
Metric manufacturing standard?
Your router looks cheaper than my bits😂
Get what you pay for!!! Always told spend money on things that make you money!!!
LOVE IT AND LOVE THE INTRO
Thanks buddy 👊
Da la impresión de que no sabes usar tu herramienta, se te mueve muchísimo y dejas un corte defectuosos.
... in US and England is 1/4 (6.35mm) bit... in the rest of the world is 6mm! They look the same, but they are not
I don't have unlimited money. I will buy what I can afford. I would never be able to buy the fancy name brand version of every tool or accessory. This video is old, but there are plenty of router bit sets with quite a lot of reviews nowadays, so perhaps there are more options.
I can't afford to buy one single bit when a whole case costs the same. So they won't last as long, but I'll get more variety. If you do this for a living, then obviously the high investment cost might be worth it, but not when you're just a regular guy who needs to use a router every once in a while.
thanks....
Mail order is a mixed bag for sure....
BTW >Thanks for this video my friend .
i use them for over 16 years, it gets the job done anyways
Yo TRZ! I somehow missed this vid! Hope your having a great day brother!
What's up Amos!!!!!!
Yeah.... I bought a box of cheap bits.... They do indeed suck. They are o.....k..... on pine, sometimes. I'll be buying decent bits from now on.
Can there be quality tools at "cheap" prices? Yes. But is every tool from the cheap brand going to be that way? No. Harbor Freight makes about a dozen tools where their performance either outshines Snap-on or is great quality enough that mechanics will use - like their 1/2" breaker bar. Same thing with Ryobi, their AirStrike Brad Nailer is among the best in the market. But you have to do your research to figure that out. Why is it that every pro woodworker don't buy 30 bits for $50? Cause they know the bit won't stay as sharp in the long run.
cheap bits for cheap routers.. and there seems to be more and more of them lately... maybe a 6mm collet instead of a 1/4 inch one would grip them, at the end of the day if you buy cheap you cant expect much
Just curious about something if anybody happens to see this why cant he grind the shaft a little to fit or think of a way to bulk up the shaft
(Dont know if that would work)
I have a set of these shitty bits on the way but I feel like with a little but of determination and a days work they can be made better by the one who owns them
I bought a cheap vacuum cleaner, it sucks.
That’s pretty bad if 1/64 of an inch would cause your bit to fall out. I’d blame the router.
Harbor freight has a good Set of Router Bits and they work amazing for the price
Good call. Thank you.
Can we say safety hazard? can we say? Amazon pull those bits or my lawyer will
I think they pulled them. I haven't seen them on the channel, but they probably changed their name and called something else now