Flats aren't always parallel. If you don't account for this when clamping by the flat then your rails will not be parallel. Clamping by the rail eliminates this issue.
You must have very fine feel on that quill? I like to zero with paper or shim: A small piece of paper is moved back and forth by hand between the cutter and the work. The Z-axis is then lowered until feeling just a enough "bite" on the paper - just like using a feeler gauge. The z-axis is zeroed and then offset equal to the thickness of the paper, or 0.001" less to compensate for compression. This works for zeroing the X and Y-axis too, as long as the cutter is of sufficient diameter to prevent flexing at the tiny loads involved.
The paper is a great idea. I use that in some instances, but the method I use now is to lower the quill to touch the part. Zero the Z and then back off the Z 0.001". Feed the Z 0.0002" (resolution on my DRO) at a time taking a pass over the part. As soon as I see that the tool is cutting I know I am 0.0002" below zero. Cut to proper dimension from there.
+dynosor1 - If you're using Mach3 or other milling software, the electronic zero can be used as well, and using a probe input port, the Z axis will come down slowly, whatever speed you program in, and the very moment it touches your work piece, or, the moment it touches a small plate wired up with the probe, you can physically program it to zero out, and it will bring the tool head up to 1" or whatever you have programmed in. This is the method I use, and if you're interested and run Mach 3, I can send you the code I use for my Z axis offset. Mine is ultra accurate.. you will need a shim or plate wired to work with your CNC controller. Can also work for manual mill with a simple LED circuit. If I worked with manual mills, I would have designed one already.
We have found end mill cuts to provide a superior surface finish and be much less prone to chatter than side cutting. It can be done vertically, but setup is more complicated and is typically done with a large angle plate to minimize chatter. This angle plate will need to be mounted and indicated prior to use. Most guys keep their mill in tram to the vise so a fixture mounted to the vise is more convenient.
Everglades ammo you are a great company! I have and will continue to do business with you guys for years to come!
Thank you!
Thanks. We appreciate your business and the feedback.
There are some very quick. easy and precise ways to set your Z zero to a surface without any risk to the cutter.
I made my fixtures for 2011's, single stacks i just clamp them by the flats, never had any trouble.
Flats aren't always parallel. If you don't account for this when clamping by the flat then your rails will not be parallel. Clamping by the rail eliminates this issue.
You must have very fine feel on that quill?
I like to zero with paper or shim: A small piece of paper is moved back and forth by hand between the cutter and the work. The Z-axis is then lowered until feeling just a enough "bite" on the paper - just like using a feeler gauge. The z-axis is zeroed and then offset equal to the thickness of the paper, or 0.001" less to compensate for compression.
This works for zeroing the X and Y-axis too, as long as the cutter is of sufficient diameter to prevent flexing at the tiny loads involved.
The paper is a great idea. I use that in some instances, but the method I use now is to lower the quill to touch the part. Zero the Z and then back off the Z 0.001". Feed the Z 0.0002" (resolution on my DRO) at a time taking a pass over the part. As soon as I see that the tool is cutting I know I am 0.0002" below zero. Cut to proper dimension from there.
He could also be using the knee for fine feed,
+dynosor1 - If you're using Mach3 or other milling software, the electronic zero can be used as well, and using a probe input port, the Z axis will come down slowly, whatever speed you program in, and the very moment it touches your work piece, or, the moment it touches a small plate wired up with the probe, you can physically program it to zero out, and it will bring the tool head up to 1" or whatever you have programmed in. This is the method I use, and if you're interested and run Mach 3, I can send you the code I use for my Z axis offset. Mine is ultra accurate.. you will need a shim or plate wired to work with your CNC controller. Can also work for manual mill with a simple LED circuit. If I worked with manual mills, I would have designed one already.
Is there a particular reason for machining the rails with the frame horizontal rather than vertical?
We have found end mill cuts to provide a superior surface finish and be much less prone to chatter than side cutting. It can be done vertically, but setup is more complicated and is typically done with a large angle plate to minimize chatter. This angle plate will need to be mounted and indicated prior to use. Most guys keep their mill in tram to the vise so a fixture mounted to the vise is more convenient.
How does the frame bolt to the jig? Could a double stack frame be used?
The frame is held down by the frame rails to ensure both sides are parallel. Yes, 2011 frames work fine on this fixture. Thanks.
Can you mill the slide cuts in the frame (80%) with this? Would it be the ideal setup to do it?
I haven't ever done it, but I don't see any reason you couldn't cut them with this fixture.
This is no good cannot tell whats going on !