1911 Build 4 - Part 1 - Matrix Precision Decking jig
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Starting my new build. Build 4 will be a .45 ACP 1911, and will feature a Clark/Para ramped barrel. Next Part will show frame cutting for a ramped barrel.
I am using a Matrix Precision Parts Filing jig in this video to deck the 1911 builders frame.
Watched all your 1911 build series and feel that I learned a lot. The videos are excellent. Thank you for putting your knowlege on you tube for guys like me!
I am learning as I go as well. Thank you for watching
MosinVirus is back! Great to see you're still doing this kind of thing man, good luck on build 4
Thank you. have you seen Part 2 yet?
When a beginner builder is using this jig, would you recommend layout fluid to make sure the builder is filing even and not missing a piece at all or suffice to say that a measurement or two with a decent quality caliper would be good enough for this procedure? Nice work as always!
The decking jig has really hard guides and you should be filing until the file no longer grabs the frame anywhere but is instead gliding on the rails. This is the only way to really ensure that the deck is truly flat and even.
You are an inspiration. This is my 4th time watching a build of yours. Not in order. Do you ever answer e-mails from amateurs trying to replicate your work? This build is the most similar to what I want to do.
Clayton Sunley I am an amateur myself, and I do try to answer every question I get. my email is Mosin.Virus@gmail.com. send pics, questions, etc.
A piece of leather wrapped halfway round the jig would also protect it.
Agreed.
Nice video. Thanks. What files did you use in the process of filling down that deck?
I use whatever flat files I have. The smoothest one is #4
Ola amigo qual um preço de um Freeman dessa 1911
Não posso vender minhas pistolas, mas só as peças custarão cerca de US $ 1.200 se você optar pela qualidade.
👍👍
Спасибо
How did you come up with the finish deck height. After using the decking jig? After decking my 1911. I'm already at .349. Without finish sanding
I don't finish sand until after the rails are cut with the Matrix Jig because it relies on the deck height. Once the rails are cut I finish sand the deck.
@@MosinVirus ok I'm cutting the rails tomorrow
sir, I really love ur skills! keep it up.
Thank yoy very much. more to come soon. planning on doing another video tomorrow or day after.
why did you cut the barrel seat first? wont that make it to shallow now???
Most if not all steel frames come with the barrel seat already cut, but they require decking. Aluminum frames don't need to be decked but require a barrel seat to be cut.
@@MosinVirus most aluminum frames may work without decking but I have always taken that extra step even prior to buying the first regular size jig. didn't notice till i bought full dust cover jig about the seat being cut. I have not yet done a steel frame but every aluminum one I have done have all been out of spec some just a hair other to the point that they ruined the stealth arms jig cart. Now I use all matrix jigs and just wondered prior to using the full dust cover jig but have since used it then cut seat and all came out to exact specs well as exact as a hand tool gunsmith came come. thanks for answering
Did your blueing it? or is it other?
I used melonite finish which is nitrocarburizing.
Você fabrica frame
No. There are companies that do that.
What size file did u use
For decking? It was just a simple flat file.
I'm interested in building an 80% frame, but I would like to avoid purchasing this jig if possible, since there will be a rail cutting jig and hole jig I'll already need which would be almost 300$. With a flat surface and some sand paper could I get the two surfaces to the proper height? Are the oversized rails parallel or would I need the jig because the rails arent already perfectly straight? Thanks for the great videos
You can get by without using a decking jig. But Matrix makes a combo hole drilling and decking jig. How parallel or straight the top of the frame is depends on the frame. I have decked one frame without using a jig. Checked if the top was flat, and at 90° to sides. Measured the deck height (should be 0.450" from Center of Slide Stop hole or .002" lower when in spec). Calculated the difference, scribed the line below the top to serve as a guide all around the deck, then proceeded to file and later flat sand to the line.
So forgive my ignorance, but do all the 1911 builders frames need decking or are they producing some with oversized dimensions to file? and out of curiosity; if you are using the Matric rail cutting jig what Jig are you using/do you suggest on a Stainless 1911 builders Frame for a Barrel cutter?
Muddy79Ford usually there will be two types of frames. One with a deck in spec but it will need a barrel seat to be cut, and the other that will need a deck to be cut to spec but it will already have a barrel seat.
did you carved everything yourself except the barrel?
No, most of the parts are made by manufacturers. I just fitted them together.
When sanding, are you using crocus cloth or sheet sandpaper? What grit?
Just sheet sandpaper. I think it was probably 220 grit, and if I needed to go higher it would have been 320 and 400.
Hey man! You couldn't have picked a better time to start a 1911 build using this frame. I was wondering about the matrix decking jig and now have no worries about buying one. Couple questions, first, which files were you using and the second is, are you going to use the phantom jig to cut the rails? You are a great gunsmith and have followed all of your builds and even the Tokarev refinishing a couple years ago. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge! BTW 1911 builders has frames on sale right now. SS 5" government frame $160
Thank you. I will be using the new Matrix Rail Cutting Jig for this and a 2011 frame. I will have two side by side builds going in December. I was using my old file, which is why it took longer. you could use any flat file with the decking jig. The jig worked really well. I was impressed.
very nice jig, what I fail to understand is why aren't he craftsman using the draw-filing technique? It is a bit slower but it produces a flater cleaner, smoother surface. Pushing a single cut file back and forth has a tendancy to create rounded uneven edges. The time difference is insignificant considering what the job is. Great work. Beautiful results.
Thank you. I use both techniques usually.
well i build my first 1911 and i have a question
on feeding a round the barrel gets pushed up and causes friction against the slide as it goes forward
is my barrel link the wrong length ? its having problems feeding because of the friction
Jamie Howell you can check your link for correctness by pushing the barrel back with your hand on the muzzle. when the barrel drops out of slide lock and sits on the barrel seat, you should see a gap of about .010-.015" between the top of the barrel and slide. this would tell you that the link is not too long. now, take the slide stop out enough for you to be able to turn it downwars so it is simply hanging down toward the trigger guard, push the slide stop pin back in but let the slide stop hang down. In the same condition, when you firmly press the barrel back into the vertical impact surface on the frame, the slide stop should be free to dangle. this will tell you that the link is not too short. Before you go replacing links, you should also check your upper lug engagement. it should be .040-.045". write me an email to Mosin.Virus@gmail.com and let me know what you found out. also attach pictures and I will try to help.
interesting
I hand fit my fram and slide and I always buy caspian frames and slides
is this tool worth it just to go around ffl transfer? I checked the price of the frames 80 percent and its almost the price of an ffl frame and sometimes even more.
if I could buy finished frames through FFL I would. But in my state I can't buy frames by themselves. Another example of bad gun control.
I love your work and I've been watching every single video to the end but I was just wondering just for a helping hand I have a have a Kimber compact 22LR that was given to me by a family member and for some reason I've been having issues with it so I broke it down down and now it's a bear frame And when I looked into it it was very rusty all the parts needed to be removed. But by any way chance just wondering that's wondering if there is any way possible or any information that you can provide for me is to where or how to buy a by a 1911 22LR Parts kit for a bear 1911 bottom frame please and thank you.
Hello, and thank you. You could definitely reach out to Kimber to see if they will cover it under warranty, and if not, try Brownells.
@@MosinVirus Thank you very much and I will keep on watching your videos to learn more and thank you for the information information and the heads up Much love my friend and be safe out there as well.😇😇😊😊💯💯
@@justinbush2870 thank you. Will do my best. Same to you and yours!
good vds man always seen and watched your vidsgot a hand for ars looking o try a 1911... new sub for sure
Johnny Gomez thank you very much. I will make more videos soon. Trying to get my Air Conditioner fixed.
9:11 why not just file tangent to the radius using smoothe side sliding on frame?
Because they were going to be removed anyway when the rails are cut.
Is this jig necessary or is it just for precision purposes
Dre Rasta The frames I use come with too tall of decks and dust covers. The rail cutting jig I use (Matrix Precision) relies on deck height for proper rail placement, so the deck has to be precisely lowered before the rail cutting jig is used. obviously this doesn't apply to frames with shorter decks, in which case either the deck is already in spec, or if shorter than spec, a shim must be used when cutting rails to position the frame at the appropriate height in the rail cutting jig.
I was looking the 1911 "Build" kit (1911builders.com/collections/416r-stainless-steel-kits/products/copy-of-1911-80-full-size-aluminium-5-build-kit-with-phantom-fixture). It appears to contain both this jig and the phantom one you use below. What is making me scratch my head is "ok which jig contains the holes for the drilling that needs to occur".
Actually it seems the kit you linked has the new decking jig. It has the hole drilling guides as well. Only I don't see the phantom jig anywhere in the pictures. The Matrix rail cutting jig is there and the decking jig. Unless they are calling one of those the phantom jig.
Oh I see. They used to sell the kit with Phantom jig. Now they have it with Matrix jig. Some of the description still references the Phantom jig. The Matrix jig is so much better. Yes, look at the picture of the decking jig. You will notice the hole guides on it.
Where do you get your frames, slides and other parts?
CORZER0 1911 builders and vytamenc for frames. Tr-enabling for slides, Brownells for parts.
so, you just file until you hit the rails right? I'm under the impression that I have to measure and freehand, which seems like the opposite of a jig...but I'm an idiot.
@@MosinVirus yeah but the rails are "supposed" to be the right height right?
@@greedfox7842 on the decking jig, yes.
Nice jig, but ...
The height from the centerline of the slide stop hole should be .450" - .005". The hole is .201", so half is .1005". That means the deck height from the top of the hole should be .3490" to .3495". Your result is .003" too low (per the notation at 8:47 of the video).
Correct.
So did You go too low
It wasn't an issue, but I was out of spec.
Приятно слышать Русский акцент.
Да уж, тяжело избавиться.
where are you getting your frames from? all my frames are alum, i'd like to get a steel one, as well as this jig i think.
EDIT: also would like to know, are you hand stamping your markings and serial numbers? or are you having them laser etched?
laser engraved. I get my frames from 1911builders. Same frames are available at range18, etc.
+MosinVirus Any problems fitting beavertail grip safeties to these steel frames?
hi, the gun is made of aluminum or stainless steel? Greetings from Russia.Moscow.
Konstantin Gmyzin Эта рамка из 4140. затвор из нержавейки.
ок.
ok
great video buffalo arms trading has a beautiful 80% steel frame with checker front of frame .it's needs the deck to be done and the side rails I know how to do everything except the decking . but check out there frames they look great and the price is great also
+Michael Mendez thank you. I will check them out. Wouldn't be surprised if those are the same frames
+MosinVirus your welcome
Great video I just subscribed. Is this a steel frame? I just bought a steel frame and I had no idea of the steel frame would be this much harder as I'm finding out.
Yes, this is a steel frame, and yes, much harder than aluminum to work on. Matrix Precision rail cutting jig has no issues cutting steel though.
@@MosinVirus I already ordered the phantom jig with an extra cutter so I'm going to have to make that work.
Are you still building things like this? I still need to order a decking jig I didn't know I needed it
Aluminum frames usually come with in-spec decks, but need a barrel seat cut. Steel frames usually have barrel seats, but need to be decked. The Phantom Jig can cut steel, and it is a good idea to have extra cutters on hand. Just make shallower passes and definitely use cutting oil.
As far as my video making, I am taking a break for the house remodel. It is basically done so I will resume making more videos and will likely start another channel for woodworking to keep it separate. 80% builds aren't likely for me since California basically made it illegal.
Looking to do my 1st 1911 and I found your videos. Will I need a filing jig and a decking jig? or just pick one?
I assume you are going with 80% frame. Some don't need to be decked. But if you are going with a Matrix decking jig they make one that Is for both decking and hole drilling. Rail filing/stoning jig is a plus but not necessary.
@@MosinVirus thanks for responding. Yes Im going with a 80 percent frame. Im new to it all and not sure on where to start. Do you have a video that has information on a simple 1st time build and whats needed for completion?
I don't think I put a video like that together. I do have one for the tools I use . Maybe that will help.
always love your work. there is real courage in taking a file to an expensive item and having confidence to know you will figure it out. Much respect.
Thank you very much. I am currently filing the bridge of the frame to allow a ramped barrel to be used. Video will come tomorrow.
speaking of courage, I will be posting a video with the scariest (so far) attempt I have made.
Do you or do you not consider your self a gun smith
+luise cobian I do not. I am a hobbyist. It will take a lot of learning and experience before I would consider myself a gunsmith.
+Thomas Harrell yes, the jig is wonderful.
What if I started cutting the rails will it still work ?
Isaias Garcia if you have a frame with a taller deck than it should be and you cut the rails using the Matrix Rail Cutting jig before putting the deck in spec, that frame is no longer useable.
MosinVirus what is we used the stealth arms jig for the rails and cut them first ?
Great video again. quick question - how did you did your writing /stamping of your name and s/n. Look very professional.
+jviz4u I actually went to a laser engraver. The information was engraved to .015" depth. It is a really nice deep engraving.
look up Micro Laser Welding Inc. that is who engraved my frames. $40 per frame.
Very nice job. Hope to see you and you creations @ local range/s soon.
+jviz4u If you go to Angeles range, I am there pretty often. Email me at Mosin.Virus@gmail.com and let me know next time you go.
where did u get the jig
From Matrix Precision. But they are also available from 1911 builders and other sites.
why does your 80% frame require this and do all of them?
because these frames have higher decks to produce another action required to finish, while they have barrel seats already milled.
+MosinVirus hey thanks, I am looking for something new after the ar15 80%. kicking around the 1911. What can you get a shooter grade parts kit for?
+crabsfree I don't know for sure, but I have seen people build these for around $600. I usually go for very specific parts though so mine run about $1200
Wow you work fast
I do what I can.
I figured out what I did wrong. I cut the rails two high. and the barrel hits the slide instead of dropping down to rest on the barrel seat. I had to trim down the inside of the slide to allow it to drop all the way down
Jamie Howell that doesn't sound right. can you elaborate?
The bottom of the barrel lug was riding on the inside of the slide instead of resting on the barrel seat so when the slide goes forward it was causing extra friction
Jamie Howell interesting.
Also there was tool marring on the inside. I had to fix. The kit was a brand new gi kit still in cosmoleen bags
What jig did you use to drill the remaining holes and do you need to have a high end drill press?
Also I know you drilled your sig by hand would you recommend that or a drill press for a 1911 I have the decking jig that has the drill holes? Sorry I’m asking so much just trying to figure how to drill these four holes.
Drill press will allow for a more accurate 90° hole. I am pretty good at feeling the position of the drill bit to guide hole, but I wouldn't recommend doing it by hand to others. If your jig has guides on both sides, drill one side of the frame from each side, then run the drill bit at high speed and run it through both sides. To make sure they line up.
I don't remember if the decking/drilling jig has guides on both sides.
Also, if you have to drill through both sides of the frame from one side, when you clear the first side, use very light pressure when the drill bit touches rhe other side so it doesn't slip to the side.
Great, now I know how you decked your frame. I did`t see this video earlier. Great work as usual MV ! Like I said in your new rail cutting video this is how I`m decking mine right now. Once again now that I`v seen this I have a lot of confidence in the decking jig..Thanks, AJ
It definitely makes things easier. before I would simply measure up from the already cut rails with Phantom Jig, trace lines from the rails and deck to the lines. thus jig is much better.
+MosinVirus I used this jig today for the first time and WOW I`m impressed. It does a great job. I`m just taking my time and letting the file do all the work. It brought the deck down to .348...I`ll probably bring it down another .001 by hand to really clean it up. The way i worked he file I could leave it the way it is, it`s that clean, but I think I`ll make it really nice with 600grit.
Nice. Sounds like it is working out for most people. Have you thought about posting videos of your progress?
+MosinVirus HAHA ! No videos for me. I would like to but I don`t think I have what it takes for holding peoples attention. Everyone would make fun of me and my fragile ego would`t be able to handle it. I know my limits..LOL
+TWISTEDSTRINGS69 could always just put a series of pictures together into a build progress video.
Nice
Thank you
Okay this probably sounds like a dumb question but i want to double check. Can you file it down to .348 before getting the slide or do you need to take a measurement of the slide first? I know you need it for cutting the rails. I haven't gotten my slide yet and i want to do some prep work before it comes in. Also i bought an 80% frame from remsport and this is one seriously high end forged frame blank. Looks to be on par with the 1911 builders frame. Only thing is you have to deck it and cut the barrel seat. Seriously can't find a tool mark anywhere, its consistent on both sides and it has the dimple where it was rockwell hardness tested.
Very nice! They are pretty good frames from what I hear. When considering the height of the deck you should not really think about the slide, but instead focus on spec. So I would say deck the frame now. How are you planning to cut the rails? If you are using a Matrix Precision jig (it relies on deck height) I would advise to deck the frame and don't sand it down until after the rails are cut. That will ensure the rails are in the correct place on the frame. Then you can sand down the file marks out of the top of the deck.
@@MosinVirus yes im using the matrix precision decker and rail cutter. Almost got the decking done. I pulled the frame out of the decker slightly early because i wasn't getting consistency across the frame. Im at .347 front on both sides and .354 on the back at both sides, if my digital caliper is correct. Im questioning its quality right now. Haha
@@MosinVirus looks like the remsport frames aren't compatible with the matrix precision rail cutter. The windows cut into the side of the frame are oval, basically the mount only makes contact on one side of the frame. Everytime i try to tighten the mount down the rear of the frame shifts off the car. Ugh
@@slinkyrobb can you send me a pic? Mosin.virus@gmail.com
You can only measure at the slide stop pin hole for the deck height of .348-.350". How are you measuring at the rear of the frame?
Здравствуйте! Скажите, в различных видео о 1911 пистолет снимают с затворной задержки в каких то случаях поддерживание затвора, а в каких то случаях с помощью "слайд-стопа". Ведь конструктивно они одинаковы, а с затворной задержки снимают по разному. Или они и конструктивно немного отличаются?
Все зависит от того для чего и как подогнан пистолет. Если все в стандарте то затвор можно спускать не удерживая. Если шептало и пружины отложены для более легкого и короткого спуска, то при сбросе затвора без сдерживания может произойти спуск ударного механизма. Это только когда пистолет пустой и без обоймы, то есть ничего не тормозит затвор. Если происходит такой спуск, носик шептала будет поврежден когда курок упадет на носик шептала предохранительным вырезом.
*отлажены
@@MosinVirus Ух ты!!! Ясно. Даже подумать не мог... СПАСИБО!!!
@@dlkravcov1973 это если я правильно понял вопрос. Если вопрос был только о методе спуска затвора, то это не имеет значения, можно ухватить затвор и оттянуть назад (в котором случае затворная задержка будет оттолкнута затвором вниз) и отпустить затвор, или можно опустить затворную задержку и тем самым отпустить затвор.
@@MosinVirus Нет-нет. Вы всё правильно поняли и объяснили. Просто я думал, что возможно конструктивно есть некое отличие между некоторыми 1911 которое не всегда позволяет снять затвор с задержки без слайд-стопа...
Я думал, что у одних поддёрнув затвор назад клавиша затворной задержки опускается, а у других нет...
вопрос только один-нафига все это?
Что всё это? Зачем делать? Можно поконкретнее сформулировать вопрос?
ну да.что,зачем и для чего все.просто с английским не в ладах
+Алексей Кулешов ну так это совсем другое дело. Просто интересно работать с металлом и в конце иметь сделанный своими руками пистолет. Причем довольно хороший пистолет. видео я делаю для того чтобы поделиться всем процессом, сделать обзор приспособлений и инструмента, и наконец показать что это возможно в "домашних условиях".
+Алексей Кулешов ну так это совсем другое дело. Просто интересно работать с металлом и в конце иметь сделанный своими руками пистолет. Причем довольно хороший пистолет. видео я делаю для того чтобы поделиться всем процессом, сделать обзор приспособлений и инструмента, и наконец показать что это возможно в "домашних условиях".
+Алексей Кулешов а насчет приспособления в этом видео, оно позволяет точно подпилить верх рамки до положенных размеров. Рамки которые я покупаю подлежат дополнительной подгонке и доработке. Они сделаны на 80 процентов, и поэтому не подлежат контролю как оружие.
FYI - Using a small fine mill file, I was able create flat spots on the rods in my Matrix Precision decking jig.
good to know. Your file must be harder than the inserts.
+JB S their new jig apparently has replaceable rod inserts.