Something to consider is that deposits are usually the result of the PCV system in modern cars which routes spent exhaust gases into the intake manifold as opposed to venting them to atmosphere. Another issue is that over the shelf oils have low magnesium content and poor detergency. Over time, this collects on the throttle body, flows down the intake runners and hardens on the piston crowns as carbon deposits. In a 12:1 engine, this raises compression and invites preignition and knock which will pull timing and affect performance. One solution is to install a catch can to trap the vapors from the PCV while still maintaining proper vacuum and PCV functionality. The other is to use an oil that has high magnesium content and detergency so that any oil landing in the intake doesn't create carbon buildup. I use a custom blended 8.5W-35 that has the same level of detergency as diesel oil. I've used it in all of my cars for the last 7 years and even without a catch can, my throttle body stays clean which means the intake is as well.
Wow, that’s some awesome info! Do you custom blend the oil yourself then? Pretty cool. I did end up going with an air intake system that vents to atmosphere which has helped a little. And switching to full synthetic oil with decent ratings probably helped a bit.
@@MartyMotoring Hey Martin! I don't blend any oils myself. I work with a professional tribologist at BND Automotive, a small company based in Ohio that's big in the Mopar community that I came from, on all of my blends. He has millions of miles of used oil analysis showing how his oil and fuel additives can reduce wear to near zero levels in a variety of different gas and diesel powered engines. The blend he made specifically for me takes into account that with high mileage, there is seal degradation and some deposits that have been created. As a result, the additive package specific to my IS is designed to scrub the deposits from the intake and literally clean the engine internals to reduce any harmful deposits that resulted from using off the shelf oils that sinter at lower temperatures. I also use his fuel additive, Aces IV, which increase the octane of any fuel by 9 full numbers, not 9 points. This allows me, if I choose to run a less expensive fuel and still achieve the same level of knock resistance to ensure I get full timing. I still run 93 due to the detergency that it offers as it's cheap insurance to get the maximum octane I can on something running 12:1 compression. With an octane effect of 102 and increased upper cylinder lubricity I get max potential and performance at all times. The owner, Brian Schubert, is great to work with and will take the time to understand your specific needs. The best part is that this is PROVEN oil that can go 2 years or 15,000 miles between oil changes. At a cost of $130 for 2 years, it's less expensive than the $240 you'd spend on store bought synthetic over the same amount of time and more effective. Used oil analysis (UOA) substantiates this with millions of miles of data. I've been using Brian's products in all of my vehicles since 2014 and would never use anything else. Unfortunately, most people see it as snake oil. For those of who use Brian's products, we know they're the best. If you want your car to survive, you can run off the shelf oil. If you want it to operate at optimum condition, then his stuff is definitely worth a look. You can find more info here: www.bndautomotive.com As an FYI, I don't get any kickbacks or discounts. I have no skin in the game other than helping people see what's proven to be the best.
Andy Moraitis; wow! What a post. I am using 0w-40 with Liquimoly MOS2 additive and have been satisfied with it. Do you have any UOA’s of the virgin oil or a UOA of your used oil to get a look at the additive package of the oil you’re using?
FYI please make sure you use throttle body cleaner that is safe on modern throttle body (CRC brand is safe). The reason why is that modern throttle bodies have a really thin coating that harsh chemicals can eat away.
I had to get my alternator replaced last year too! So far the only thing that has gone wrong. I cleaned my throttle body when I changed my spark plugs for pre-100k maintenance, currently at 98k miles. You should change your plugs too with your mileage!
A couple cool Canucks, I wish i had a friend like Steve but I am just not cool. I will definitely F this job up on my own it always happens easy to take apart and it's never the same after I put it back together... Damm ! Have a nice day guys.
Marty!! Make a video about your headlights and what kind of system you have behind them because the ALL of the aftermarket ones say “not compatible with HID or xenon bases” that all ‘07 IS’s have from factory. Yours are either LED or extremely bright halogens. Just make a video showing your headlights because i want to put aftermarket ones on mine to go with my aftermarket tail lights but want to see what setup you have. Thank you!
I can make a video about them, sure! They say that - because you can’t reuse the HID in the halogen projectors. I used an LED low beam since it’s white light and less heat. You also lose AFS, unfortunately. Good video idea!
+Marty Motoring I want those lights, I bought a used 2010 model, & everytime I see a 2011 too 2013 model I wanna shoot myself. cuz.I love the front lights..!!
If anyone knows pls help, I cleaned the maf sensor and started the car, it threw a check engine code with p0102 and p0113, then I drove it and revved it to 3k and started miss firing, I disconnected the battery for a few minutes and cleaned it again, after that no codes popped up and drove fine, does disconnecting the battery before disconnecting anything electrical wise will reset the ecu? I never had a problem with my g37 disconnecting and cleaning both throttle body and maf even spark plugs
Can I just disconnect the wiring harness to the throttle position sensor and then manually open the butterfly to clean it? (Is250) I don't want to completely remove the TB and the butterfly won't open by pressing the gas peddle while car is in the "on" position like some people say to do with an electronic throttle body. So will disconnecting the wire be safe to then manually open it
Try resetting the idle. 1. Start car until normal operating temperature is reached. 2. Turn car off 3. Put ignition in "on" position 4. Turn to "off" 5. Start car 6. Put park brake on and put your foot on the brake. 7. Put car into Drive 8. Let car idle for 3 or 4 mins. DONE
I’m confused!! Are you supposed to open it and force your fingers into the butter fly? I thought that was something bad to do for electronic controlled throttle bodies ?
I have not. I wasn’t planning to since it’s a sealed unit and people have only mentioned issues after changing it out...not sure if there is any benefit at this mileage.
I just had my car with 170k miles in at Lexus of Knoxville and they told me tranny and rear diff fluids can just keep going as long as not leaking. Mine shifts fine and runs like new.
Marty, love the channel! Question though, did you replace the throttle body gasket as part of this cleaning? I'm going to tackle this myself this weekend and want to be sure i have one if you are supposed to.
Thanks, Scott! I did not, since the metal all looked good and round rubber gasket looked great still and doesn’t get ruined or anything like those other cardboard gaskets.
Hey marty can you give a link or make a video on what to look out for when buying the 2010 is 250 awd they are priced pretty good now and i always wanted a lexus
Fantastic video! Keep em coming. Lexus told me the same thing about my idle when I got the new panels installed but I’ve been lazy to clean it, but now I’ll do it. One question though, what brand cleaner did you used?
Mario Thank you! I try to make one every weekend since I work in the week and it gets dark so fast. They pointed it out to me too when I was in for the alternator. I planned to use Carb Cleaner but Steve had some Brake Kleen spray that worked fine.
Marty, im looking to buy a 2007 350 and the owner told me that his engine burns oil and many others do too. Checking on club lexus, I see that this is true. Does your IS burn oil? How does it affect performance? Other than changing the PCV valve, what can be done about the problem?
Spyglass I’ve heard that. My oil level never changes though, and I change mine every 3000 miles. The performance hasn’t decreased at all for me. I’m hoping that changing my alternator and PCV valve is all I need to do for a while.
Spyglass my car burns 1.5 quarts during my 3.5k oil change intervals. I changed the PCV valve and nothing happened. On the forums it seems as if its a regular thing. Most burn and a rare few dont. Let me know if you find something else!
Dale Curiel ever had any trouble with emissions because of the oil burn? Also do you ever notice a faint smell (when you step outside the car) after idling?
My alternator went out too. First one from ebay was defective so i purchased another and is working but now my car has a winding noise. Sounds like a baby supercharger. You experiencing the same thing with your new one?
I haven’t experienced that...sounds like a grounding issue? There is a natural whine from the transmission but I know what you mean - my old Subaru had an alternator whine.
If it's an audible electrical wine then it could be a simple grounding issue but if it sounds anything like the whine of a supercharger then I would inspect the trans and diff
Hi bro i wanna ask what do your suggestions about lexus rc 350 spoilers i want a spoiler and i like the one on the lexus rcF but iam afraod that i won't work so what other spoilers do you suggest for me and thank you
You won’t get the backside clean and the cleaner could go into the intake manifold which is not good. Definitely recommend removing it to clean it properly....Just remove the airbox, a few bolts and 2 vacuum lines, easy stuff, even I did it. Good luck!
@@MartyMotoring If you do, please make a DIY video as the clublexus forums doesn't really have clear pictures on how to do it. Can't tell where the hoses are running in and out from. Thanks!
@@MartyMotoring Definitely should do a video on installing one. Only seen 1 video here on utube and it's not really a DIY. Guy already had installed it. XD They are fairly inexpensive. Can find them on eBay for $23-$45 shipped I got a $23 shipped rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F253772710449 all aluminum one without that clear plastic tube on the side. Those tend to fail with time due to heat.
Something to consider is that deposits are usually the result of the PCV system in modern cars which routes spent exhaust gases into the intake manifold as opposed to venting them to atmosphere. Another issue is that over the shelf oils have low magnesium content and poor detergency. Over time, this collects on the throttle body, flows down the intake runners and hardens on the piston crowns as carbon deposits. In a 12:1 engine, this raises compression and invites preignition and knock which will pull timing and affect performance.
One solution is to install a catch can to trap the vapors from the PCV while still maintaining proper vacuum and PCV functionality. The other is to use an oil that has high magnesium content and detergency so that any oil landing in the intake doesn't create carbon buildup. I use a custom blended 8.5W-35 that has the same level of detergency as diesel oil. I've used it in all of my cars for the last 7 years and even without a catch can, my throttle body stays clean which means the intake is as well.
Wow, that’s some awesome info! Do you custom blend the oil yourself then? Pretty cool. I did end up going with an air intake system that vents to atmosphere which has helped a little. And switching to full synthetic oil with decent ratings probably helped a bit.
@@MartyMotoring Hey Martin! I don't blend any oils myself. I work with a professional tribologist at BND Automotive, a small company based in Ohio that's big in the Mopar community that I came from, on all of my blends. He has millions of miles of used oil analysis showing how his oil and fuel additives can reduce wear to near zero levels in a variety of different gas and diesel powered engines. The blend he made specifically for me takes into account that with high mileage, there is seal degradation and some deposits that have been created. As a result, the additive package specific to my IS is designed to scrub the deposits from the intake and literally clean the engine internals to reduce any harmful deposits that resulted from using off the shelf oils that sinter at lower temperatures.
I also use his fuel additive, Aces IV, which increase the octane of any fuel by 9 full numbers, not 9 points. This allows me, if I choose to run a less expensive fuel and still achieve the same level of knock resistance to ensure I get full timing. I still run 93 due to the detergency that it offers as it's cheap insurance to get the maximum octane I can on something running 12:1 compression. With an octane effect of 102 and increased upper cylinder lubricity I get max potential and performance at all times.
The owner, Brian Schubert, is great to work with and will take the time to understand your specific needs. The best part is that this is PROVEN oil that can go 2 years or 15,000 miles between oil changes. At a cost of $130 for 2 years, it's less expensive than the $240 you'd spend on store bought synthetic over the same amount of time and more effective. Used oil analysis (UOA) substantiates this with millions of miles of data. I've been using Brian's products in all of my vehicles since 2014 and would never use anything else. Unfortunately, most people see it as snake oil. For those of who use Brian's products, we know they're the best. If you want your car to survive, you can run off the shelf oil. If you want it to operate at optimum condition, then his stuff is definitely worth a look.
You can find more info here: www.bndautomotive.com
As an FYI, I don't get any kickbacks or discounts. I have no skin in the game other than helping people see what's proven to be the best.
Andy Moraitis; wow!
What a post. I am using 0w-40 with Liquimoly MOS2 additive and have been satisfied with it. Do you have any UOA’s of the virgin oil or a UOA of your used oil to get a look at the additive package of the oil you’re using?
FYI please make sure you use throttle body cleaner that is safe on modern throttle body (CRC brand is safe). The reason why is that modern throttle bodies have a really thin coating that harsh chemicals can eat away.
I had to get my alternator replaced last year too! So far the only thing that has gone wrong.
I cleaned my throttle body when I changed my spark plugs for pre-100k maintenance, currently at 98k miles.
You should change your plugs too with your mileage!
Shot by Kumar man all our is350’s got the same thing goin on. I got my plugs on my way and ima end up getting some new tein struts soon as well
Seems to be a common issue haha. I need to do spark plugs as well
Always replace with the denso alternator!
I am having idle issues after replacing my alternator..i wonder if i need to rebuild the original Alternator?
@@rewindcouture3300 true
Thanks for upload! Lexus IS 2nd Gen - best car ive ever owned!
Should you do the intake clean like your buddy mentioned, then the throttle body? Great video, really nicely done.
A couple cool Canucks, I wish i had a friend like Steve but I am just not cool. I will definitely F this job up on my own it always happens easy to take apart and it's never the same after I put it back together... Damm ! Have a nice day guys.
I cleaned my MAF sensor and it seemed to have done the trick.
Replaced mine. Paid $1000 to a mechanic mines high rpms not as smooth shifting as should be. I’m 183k…
Excellent video Marty. Definitely do a video for the PCV valve replacement. 👍
PCV is on the driver side valve cover I think it’s a 17mm and I always use penetrating oil to take off any hoses
You should clean the MAF sensor at the same time, super easy to do, and that can also affect your idle
Yup, I did that before the video, thinking that was the issue. This cleaning definitely improved idle 😎
Do you use the same can to clean the maf sensor ?
Marty!! Make a video about your headlights and what kind of system you have behind them because the ALL of the aftermarket ones say “not compatible with HID or xenon bases” that all ‘07 IS’s have from factory. Yours are either LED or extremely bright halogens. Just make a video showing your headlights because i want to put aftermarket ones on mine to go with my aftermarket tail lights but want to see what setup you have. Thank you!
I can make a video about them, sure! They say that - because you can’t reuse the HID in the halogen projectors. I used an LED low beam since it’s white light and less heat. You also lose AFS, unfortunately. Good video idea!
+Marty Motoring I want those lights, I bought a used 2010 model, & everytime I see a 2011 too 2013 model I wanna shoot myself. cuz.I love the front lights..!!
Lark Thomas These are just aftermarket ones that can work on any model, mine is an old 2007! Lol so it’s an easy upgrade
Marty Motoring
Have you had any problems with them? I saw some reviews that said they get condensation buildup
@@skj468 No problems at all
Can you do a proper video for changing trans fluid and filter for the IS?
Nick Lehman Hoping to soon!
when I took mine off it was definitely a lot cleaner but I do practically floor it everywhere so that helps lol
I do too 😂 Unfortunately with the design of the recirculating lines and crankcase (and my mileage) it built up pretty badly I guess lol.
If anyone knows pls help, I cleaned the maf sensor and started the car, it threw a check engine code with p0102 and p0113, then I drove it and revved it to 3k and started miss firing, I disconnected the battery for a few minutes and cleaned it again, after that no codes popped up and drove fine, does disconnecting the battery before disconnecting anything electrical wise will reset the ecu? I never had a problem with my g37 disconnecting and cleaning both throttle body and maf even spark plugs
Can I just disconnect the wiring harness to the throttle position sensor and then manually open the butterfly to clean it?
(Is250)
I don't want to completely remove the TB and the butterfly won't open by pressing the gas peddle while car is in the "on" position like some people say to do with an electronic throttle body.
So will disconnecting the wire be safe to then manually open it
My is250 idle rough at stop lights. Going to try this to see if it’ll change anything.
Try resetting the idle.
1. Start car until normal operating temperature is reached.
2. Turn car off
3. Put ignition in "on" position
4. Turn to "off"
5. Start car
6. Put park brake on and put your foot on the brake.
7. Put car into Drive
8. Let car idle for 3 or 4 mins.
DONE
Crazy prayingmantis thanks! I will try this. Also when setting the e brake do I hold down the brake while waiting the 3-4 mins?
@@jangzo
The only reason to hold down the brake is as a safety precaution to prevent the car moving, because it will be in drive.
Crazy prayingmantis thanks!
I’m confused!! Are you supposed to open it and force your fingers into the butter fly? I thought that was something bad to do for electronic controlled throttle bodies ?
I though the same thing. No though that would mess up the calibration
Did you end up spraying intake cleaner down the intake to help burn up all the gunk from the video?
I did not have any on hand when we filmed the video. I’d like to do that in the future though!
can you clean the throttle without removing it? also when should you change sparkplugs? lexus maintenance recommends at 60k and 120k.
Yes you can I did it without taking it out but makes cleaning it as a whole a bit mite annoying
I thought you werent supposed to move the butterfly valve manually on electronic throttle bodys?
Good video!! Have you changed your Transmission fluid? I know a flush is not good to do. But a drain and fill is good.
I have not. I wasn’t planning to since it’s a sealed unit and people have only mentioned issues after changing it out...not sure if there is any benefit at this mileage.
@@MartyMotoring Thanks for the info. I guess I won't change it either.
I just had my car with 170k miles in at Lexus of Knoxville and they told me tranny and rear diff fluids can just keep going as long as not leaking. Mine shifts fine and runs like new.
Better lighting plz fam from beginning 🧤💚
Marty, love the channel! Question though, did you replace the throttle body gasket as part of this cleaning? I'm going to tackle this myself this weekend and want to be sure i have one if you are supposed to.
Thanks, Scott! I did not, since the metal all looked good and round rubber gasket looked great still and doesn’t get ruined or anything like those other cardboard gaskets.
Hey marty can you give a link or make a video on what to look out for when buying the 2010 is 250 awd they are priced pretty good now and i always wanted a lexus
This may help: ruclips.net/video/tmt0OxHQEtY/видео.html
What did you use to clean the MAF??? The CRC MAF cleaner say DO NOT use on Karmann vortex MAF’s that are on “most Lexus vehicles”???
OLD Lexus vehicles. It says right on the sensor what it is, and that’s not what it is.
I did this and there’s a coolant by pass on it ,did u jusr clamp it down or let the car cool down
What are your wheel and tire brand and specs if you don't mind telling
Of course! They are OptionLab R716 in 18x8.5 front and 9.5 rear, 35 offset, and 225/40 front, 245/40 rear
Appreciate it!!
Where can I buy the light? The link is not in the description 😭
Fantastic video! Keep em coming. Lexus told me the same thing about my idle when I got the new panels installed but I’ve been lazy to clean it, but now I’ll do it. One question though, what brand cleaner did you used?
Mario Thank you! I try to make one every weekend since I work in the week and it gets dark so fast. They pointed it out to me too when I was in for the alternator. I planned to use Carb Cleaner but Steve had some Brake Kleen spray that worked fine.
My Lexus has been having issues with accelerating some times after running it for a while. I wonder if this would help.
Marty, im looking to buy a 2007 350 and the owner told me that his engine burns oil and many others do too. Checking on club lexus, I see that this is true. Does your IS burn oil? How does it affect performance? Other than changing the PCV valve, what can be done about the problem?
Spyglass I’ve heard that. My oil level never changes though, and I change mine every 3000 miles. The performance hasn’t decreased at all for me. I’m hoping that changing my alternator and PCV valve is all I need to do for a while.
Spyglass I’m not sure what could be done besides just changing the oil often and checking the seals
@@MartyMotoring gotcha. thanks for the help
Spyglass my car burns 1.5 quarts during my 3.5k oil change intervals. I changed the PCV valve and nothing happened. On the forums it seems as if its a regular thing. Most burn and a rare few dont. Let me know if you find something else!
Dale Curiel ever had any trouble with emissions because of the oil burn? Also do you ever notice a faint smell (when you step outside the car) after idling?
My alternator went out too. First one from ebay was defective so i purchased another and is working but now my car has a winding noise. Sounds like a baby supercharger. You experiencing the same thing with your new one?
I haven’t experienced that...sounds like a grounding issue? There is a natural whine from the transmission but I know what you mean - my old Subaru had an alternator whine.
If it's an audible electrical wine then it could be a simple grounding issue but if it sounds anything like the whine of a supercharger then I would inspect the trans and diff
hiya did you have to do a throttle body re-learn after that marty cheers mate
Nope - resetting the ECU by unplugging the battery helped.
You can just clean the pcv valve with degreaser and compressed air...
Damn I need to get my spark plugs changed soon, hopefully they don’t need to remove my Megan strut. The Lexus dealer
I need to do spark plugs too!
Marty Motoring
Yes u have to remove the strut tower intake has to come off and replace upper intake gaskets and cooper fuel lines washers
Should take about 2 hrs by hand and 1 1/2 with cordless tools
Have to remove the entire damn intake manifold. Lexus made it a real biatch to do a simple spark plug change.
Hi bro i wanna ask what do your suggestions about lexus rc 350 spoilers i want a spoiler and i like the one on the lexus rcF but iam afraod that i won't work so what other spoilers do you suggest for me and thank you
You have really nice headlights. Where did you get it Marty?
Thanks! I have VIPMotoz. Aftermarket Headlights (VIPMotoz) - Lexus IS 250/350/F ruclips.net/video/n1rdPE2H6NQ/видео.html
You disconnected all cables, there is no error? you don't have to do adaptation?
Should adapt itself
I confirm. I disconnected all cables and cleaned them. Adaptation itself after 15 minutes
Hi Marty, have you had your car on the dyno? I'm curious as to the gains with intake & exhaust. Do you have it chipped? Thanks man
Hey there! I haven’t had it on the dyno but would like to soon, just to see what it actually makes. I don’t have any chips or tunes or anything
Rear diff oil should be changed each 24k miles or 48 months....
I’m not sure mine has ever been changed with 166k miles 🤦♂️
If anyone could answer, it would be appreciated. Do I have to remove throttle body to clean, or can I keep it on?
You won’t get the backside clean and the cleaner could go into the intake manifold which is not good. Definitely recommend removing it to clean it properly....Just remove the airbox, a few bolts and 2 vacuum lines, easy stuff, even I did it. Good luck!
To do this properly the throttle body has to be removed. if you're not going to clean it in full then there's no point in doing it.
@@MartyMotoring Do the vacuum lines have fluid and do they need to be pinched?
NICE!
Why does it die on the first time? Any theory behind it?
toyota
Love your videos mate.
BUT you really can use better lighting in your videos
Thanks! Yup my camera screen would look bright, but the lighting was bad in the recording. I’ve since upgraded cameras and software.
What wheels are those??
OptionLab R716
Did you use brake cleaner to clean the throttle?
Carb and Choke Cleaner
How is the alternator after like 11 yrs under warranty?
I’m not sure if mine was ever replaced until I did it in 2017
Good video!
how did you get warranty on an 07? I have an old IS too... I need that! lmao
Freedom Drive warranty! Got it through a dealer
@@MartyMotoring even if my car is an 08' with high miles?
Did you replace the gasket?
No reused
@@MartyMotoring thanks 👌🏻
Marty do a facelifting video !!
anyone know if there is a LSD for the is350
Tony ren the frs/brz/86 fits right in I’ve heard
Mario i hope this is true. I would love a lsd
Oil catch can would help greatly more with that gunk ;)
Definitely something I want to look into! Maybe a future video ;)
@@MartyMotoring If you do, please make a DIY video as the clublexus forums doesn't really have clear pictures on how to do it. Can't tell where the hoses are running in and out from. Thanks!
@@MartyMotoring
Definitely should do a video on installing one. Only seen 1 video here on utube and it's not really a DIY. Guy already had installed it. XD
They are fairly inexpensive. Can find them on eBay for $23-$45 shipped
I got a $23 shipped
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F253772710449
all aluminum one without that clear plastic tube on the side. Those tend to fail with time due to heat.
What is mean for sound
whats that whining noise?
I also had to change my alternator on this car. Must be a weak point
MrMusicweekly Seems most owners have! They are made by Denso for Toyota, so they must just wear out over time 🤷♂️
Had the same issue as well but my car is running fine after the replacement
@@PResmejor mine went @ 90k miles also luckily was close to my home and my mechanic is close also so the battery lasted the drive there
Aye I have that snap on torch
I need to get one - it works perfectly
What's size of ur rims 19?
They are 18s 😎
its corona time
You could have cleaned it in situ really ? Just open butterfly with fingers and clean with a rag soaked in carb cleaner
2:42 That is very dirty buddy,....... New ones look snow white clean....CHANGE IT man....
Ali This is the blue F Sport filter, not the white paper stock one 👍
@@MartyMotoring is the blue one less thick? What's the difference...?
Ali it’s actually thicker and a mesh, so cleanable and reusable