I have seen other carburetor rebuilds but didn't seem to be the right one for my 2012 Polaris 400 ho four wheeler . This is the one that I have on mine . Thank you for putting this how to video on the internet . It is very informational , not only do you explain it well but do an awesome job . It is people like yourself that makes it easy for the DIY guys to be able to fix their four wheeler and save a ton of money in the process on repairs . Thanks again
I used this walk-through today, after my '08 400HO suddenly started pouring fuel out the bottom of the carb while plowing snow. Exact issue was described perfectly. Waited a week for a mild rebuild kit to get started. Was pleasantly surprised with the Pine-Sol treatment. Fired right up, ran smooth and no more fuel loss. Looking forward to another couple yrs of quality use. Really appreciate the content and smooth presentation. 👍
First off...awsome video as I have a 2004 Sportsman with pretty much the same carb, but not a HO model. FYI I was removing the carb and had everything disconnected that needed to be, except after loosening the choke nut attaching the choke assembly to the carb, I could not pull out the choke plunger assembly! The choke itself would not fully engage prior to taking of the carb, so I had an issue I haven't seen yet on other videos. I was scared to pull on the cable too hard and break off the head of the cable and then I may never get the choke plunger out. I sprayed carb cleaner into the are where the choke plunger goes into the carb, but no luck. It wasn't until I sprayed carb cleaner into the larger hole located on the top side in front of the butterfly did it pop out. Just thought I'd share in case someone else runs into this issue. Thanks for the great video again!
@@MyThaiDays-rx9ts Nice, actually choke plungers getting seized is a common problem on bikes that have sat for a while. Moisture corrodes them and sometimes you have to replace the carb. Good job!
Just had to tell ya...this morning I had a carb just like this (500 magnum) that was a head scratcher. I’ve only had this issue on one other Polaris. Issue was jet block orings. Off idle stumbling was happening and mixture screw didn’t make a difference where I turned it. Harbor Freight viton oring kit to the rescue. 2 new orings and back to normal.
Nice. Nice. Nice. Got a killer deal on a MINT 01 Sport 400 thats been sitting in a garage for literally 17 yrs. and it starts right up but spills fuel. Figure its a stuck float. But why Im really glad I watched is the PINE SOL trick. That said, every thing in this video is PRO Material. Hot Damn, down to the garage I go! Thank you for it brother.
@@TepcoCycleRepair Did a quick clean on the carb, just to get it running while I waited for the rebuild kit. Float stuck as I assumed, pilot clogged. Rode it a couple times and it did leak a small amount of fuel. Got the rebuild kit and did the complete overhaul > and sure enough the the needle seat O ring is totally maimed...came out in 2 pieces. Thanks again for the greatest carb video Ive ever seen! She runs absolutely beautiful now.
I have the same carb on my 500 sportsman and cannot get the cv slide to open ive had completely apart 5 times and everything is clean and now rebuilt all new needle seat jets the whole 9 except for the diaphragm which seems to be fine and I do have it seated right im lost as to why I cannot get any vacuum or why it won't lift by itself. If I put my finger in while it running and lift it it runs awesome. But same deal 96 sportsman 500 sat outside for almost 15 years and only has 900 miles on it. I'm stumped
Very detailed instructional video. Would the same process apply to a 2010 Polaris Sportsman 500 H.O.? Mine has been sitting for about three years and I was able to get it running, but it is leaking out the bottom where the vent overflow is located. So I'm thinking a rebuild should fix it. Anything for me to look out for?
When I rebuilt mine same year I removed the plug and the screw only turned in 1/4 turn?? aren't they usually 2 to 2 3/4 turn initially.... BTW great video
Yes, usually 1-2.5. 1/4 would be a sign for a leaner pilot jet. It might have just vibrated over the years possible. There is a stock setting in the manual, I would set it there.
Do you need to get a new "cap" for over the mixing screw (the one you drilled and removed)or do you just leave that off from here on out? Didnt know if it could vibrate lose and out
I use name brand Pine Sole at 100% at first and as it evaporates I add water. The less it's diluted the shorter time it needs. On heat full strength it only needs about 10-15 min. It's aggressive on some aluminum so just keep an eye on it, some aluminum will turn black if you leave it in to long.
@@TepcoCycleRepair thanks man I was finally able to get it loose. Now my problem is that I’ve cleaned the carb (which wasn’t dirty or gummed up) I can get the ranger to start with the air filter off but as soon as I put the cap back on over the air filter it dies. It’s a new air filter and double checked to make sure it’s the right one. Any ideas where I should look next?
@@andrewdunemn1873 Is your choke/enricher back on and closed all the way? Sounds like it's rich. If the choke is slightly on it will cause a rich condition, then the slight restriction from the air filter will make even richer which could cause a no start or stall.
Only if it's on the fuel side (engine side) of the carb. If it's an air screw it will have a broader tip and a spring. Your 500 definitely should have a spring, washer and oring or it will suck air through. It's #31, 32, and 33 of the parts diagram for your bike.
Awesome video ! my carb is set a 3.25 . Do you have any good advice on the pilot jet not breaking free ? the passage for the screwdriver is pretty small
Don't strip it! Clean all the gas out the use a torch to heat the pilot passageway so it will expand slightly. If you strip it, you'll have to drill it and use an easy out.
thank you ... i whant to buy carporutor like this and fuel .. i have polaris 400 2010 ranger ..... pleas you can tell me from where i can puy it in usa
Heated, it works much quicker and better. Don't leave it in to long it will oxidize some metals. I usually do it for 30-40 min checking it about mid way through.
I'm using a T-handle Snap on ratcheting screw driver with a #2 Snap on bit, it's really nice. Snap on has them made by another company, you can find the T handle on line for much cheaper. The bit has small teeth on it that works great. A JIS tip would be perfect though.
Interesting...never tired pinesol. I’m a simple green guy. Few things... 1) float pin and float needle seat removal: get a small pair of side cutters to grab/pinch between the pin head flange and tower. Just fulcrum a little and it will pull right out. Also us these cutters to pinch seat and fulcrum upward. 2) Float needle seat oring: get the viton oring kit from HF. It has a few sizes that are real close to oem. Roll them up a set of needle nose jaws to stretch a little before installing for some. They work for a variety of needle seats. 3) While at HF get a set of paint gun cleaning brushes. Lots of good brushes that are useful cleaning carbs 4) Put a dab of grease on boss on diaphragm cap. Helps spring from wear/rust. Nice work. Very thorough. Again one of the better cleaning/ rebuilding videos I’ve seen so far.
I did mean to ask, the brass tube that is right next to the pilot jet on my carb is clogged, does this passage need to be unclogged or is it normally closed off?
@@ericparadise813 Yes, it could do several things like not open all the way or open all the way and not close. It will have waves in the rubber if it's messed up. A good way to check it is to pull the carb and use your finger to lift the slide all the way up then see if it smoothly drops back down. Do that several times and also make sure it slides up smoothly. If it sticks up even one time, or has trouble sliding up smoothly, it needs to be replaced.
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I have seen other carburetor rebuilds but didn't seem to be the right one for my 2012 Polaris 400 ho four wheeler . This is the one that I have on mine . Thank you for putting this how to video on the internet . It is very informational , not only do you explain it well but do an awesome job . It is people like yourself that makes it easy for the DIY guys to be able to fix their four wheeler and save a ton of money in the process on repairs . Thanks again
Awesome, glad I could help. Thanks for watching!
I used this walk-through today, after my '08 400HO suddenly started pouring fuel out the bottom of the carb while plowing snow. Exact issue was described perfectly. Waited a week for a mild rebuild kit to get started. Was pleasantly surprised with the Pine-Sol treatment. Fired right up, ran smooth and no more fuel loss. Looking forward to another couple yrs of quality use. Really appreciate the content and smooth presentation. 👍
Awesome, thanks for the comment and glad I could help.
This was an absolutely fantastic video. Probably the best carb video I have seen
First off...awsome video as I have a 2004 Sportsman with pretty much the same carb, but not a HO model. FYI I was removing the carb and had everything disconnected that needed to be, except after loosening the choke nut attaching the choke assembly to the carb, I could not pull out the choke plunger assembly! The choke itself would not fully engage prior to taking of the carb, so I had an issue I haven't seen yet on other videos. I was scared to pull on the cable too hard and break off the head of the cable and then I may never get the choke plunger out. I sprayed carb cleaner into the are where the choke plunger goes into the carb, but no luck. It wasn't until I sprayed carb cleaner into the larger hole located on the top side in front of the butterfly did it pop out. Just thought I'd share in case someone else runs into this issue. Thanks for the great video again!
@@MyThaiDays-rx9ts Nice, actually choke plungers getting seized is a common problem on bikes that have sat for a while. Moisture corrodes them and sometimes you have to replace the carb. Good job!
Just had to tell ya...this morning I had a carb just like this (500 magnum) that was a head scratcher. I’ve only had this issue on one other Polaris. Issue was jet block orings. Off idle stumbling was happening and mixture screw didn’t make a difference where I turned it. Harbor Freight viton oring kit to the rescue. 2 new orings and back to normal.
Very impressed with the video and the conversations, thanks!
Nice work. Can’t believe there aren’t more likes! Thanks for the video
Thanks for watching!
Nice. Nice. Nice. Got a killer deal on a MINT 01 Sport 400 thats been sitting in a garage for literally 17 yrs. and it starts right up but spills fuel. Figure its a stuck float. But why Im really glad I watched is the PINE SOL trick. That said, every thing in this video is PRO Material. Hot Damn, down to the garage I go! Thank you for it brother.
Check that float needle seat oring if it's still leaking after you clean it up. Good find!
@@TepcoCycleRepair Did a quick clean on the carb, just to get it running while I waited for the rebuild kit. Float stuck as I assumed, pilot clogged. Rode it a couple times and it did leak a small amount of fuel. Got the rebuild kit and did the complete overhaul > and sure enough the the needle seat O ring is totally maimed...came out in 2 pieces. Thanks again for the greatest carb video Ive ever seen! She runs absolutely beautiful now.
@@micahjared8082 Freekin awesome! Good job!
Thanks for the video. Good instructions and quality
very informative video, many thanks just what I need at the moment for my 2012 400HO Ranger - over fuelling!!! Thank you
I have the same carb on my 500 sportsman and cannot get the cv slide to open ive had completely apart 5 times and everything is clean and now rebuilt all new needle seat jets the whole 9 except for the diaphragm which seems to be fine and I do have it seated right im lost as to why I cannot get any vacuum or why it won't lift by itself. If I put my finger in while it running and lift it it runs awesome. But same deal 96 sportsman 500 sat outside for almost 15 years and only has 900 miles on it. I'm stumped
Awesome video by the way thanks
Very detailed instructional video. Would the same process apply to a 2010 Polaris Sportsman 500 H.O.? Mine has been sitting for about three years and I was able to get it running, but it is leaking out the bottom where the vent overflow is located. So I'm thinking a rebuild should fix it. Anything for me to look out for?
Same thing, be sure to replace the needle seat o-ring.
When I rebuilt mine same year I removed the plug and the screw only turned in 1/4 turn?? aren't they usually 2 to 2 3/4 turn initially.... BTW great video
Yes, usually 1-2.5. 1/4 would be a sign for a leaner pilot jet. It might have just vibrated over the years possible. There is a stock setting in the manual, I would set it there.
Is there a part 2 where you put it back on?
Do you need to get a new "cap" for over the mixing screw (the one you drilled and removed)or do you just leave that off from here on out? Didnt know if it could vibrate lose and out
@@barrybode2352 The spring keeps it in place, you don't need the tamper proof cap.
P.s may I ask what ratio or pine sol your using? That was awesome how clean that came out and I'd like to adopt your recipe and way of cleaning
I use name brand Pine Sole at 100% at first and as it evaporates I add water. The less it's diluted the shorter time it needs. On heat full strength it only needs about 10-15 min. It's aggressive on some aluminum so just keep an eye on it, some aluminum will turn black if you leave it in to long.
@@TepcoCycleRepair ok cool thanks for your reply. Now just to get that slide to open and work right.
What did you use to get the choke cable loose? I can’t seem to get anything to fit between the housing of the carb and the fitting.
It shouldn't be tight, I usually use a long needle nose straight on to get it loose, then use my fingers or the needle nose.
@@TepcoCycleRepair thanks man I was finally able to get it loose. Now my problem is that I’ve cleaned the carb (which wasn’t dirty or gummed up) I can get the ranger to start with the air filter off but as soon as I put the cap back on over the air filter it dies. It’s a new air filter and double checked to make sure it’s the right one. Any ideas where I should look next?
@@andrewdunemn1873 Is your choke/enricher back on and closed all the way? Sounds like it's rich. If the choke is slightly on it will cause a rich condition, then the slight restriction from the air filter will make even richer which could cause a no start or stall.
great vid .does every carb have a spring and washer on the mixture screw I did not see that on my 01 sportsman 500 ho? and thanks
Only if it's on the fuel side (engine side) of the carb. If it's an air screw it will have a broader tip and a spring.
Your 500 definitely should have a spring, washer and oring or it will suck air through. It's #31, 32, and 33 of the parts diagram for your bike.
@@TepcoCycleRepair thank you I found the spring on my floor and washer and o ring
Awesome video ! my carb is set a 3.25 . Do you have any good advice on the pilot jet not breaking free ? the passage for the screwdriver is pretty small
Don't strip it! Clean all the gas out the use a torch to heat the pilot passageway so it will expand slightly. If you strip it, you'll have to drill it and use an easy out.
@@TepcoCycleRepair that’s kinda what I was thinking but I may have rubbed off the size stamped on the jet . Thanks for the reply .
What about putting the cover back on the mixing screw can you do that where's the or you don't need it once it's out
No, don't need to put it back in. The mixture screw needs to be accessible in case it needs adjustment.
Did you have to adjust the idle mixture screw or was it good at 3.25?
Yes, It was good at 3.25
thank you ...
i whant to buy carporutor like this and fuel .. i have polaris 400 2010 ranger ..... pleas you can tell me from where i can puy it in usa
Try this one.
amzn.to/3OV4mXj
@@TepcoCycleRepair thanks allot
Did you have the pine - sol heated up or cold?
Heated, it works much quicker and better. Don't leave it in to long it will oxidize some metals. I usually do it for 30-40 min checking it about mid way through.
What kind of screwdriver are you using here to crack off the screws?
I'm using a T-handle Snap on ratcheting screw driver with a #2 Snap on bit, it's really nice. Snap on has them made by another company, you can find the T handle on line for much cheaper. The bit has small teeth on it that works great. A JIS tip would be perfect though.
Interesting...never tired pinesol. I’m a simple green guy. Few things...
1) float pin and float needle seat removal: get a small pair of side cutters to grab/pinch between the pin head flange and tower. Just fulcrum a little and it will pull right out. Also us these cutters to pinch seat and fulcrum upward.
2) Float needle seat oring: get the viton oring kit from HF. It has a few sizes that are real close to oem. Roll them up a set of needle nose jaws to stretch a little before installing for some. They work for a variety of needle seats.
3) While at HF get a set of paint gun cleaning brushes. Lots of good brushes that are useful cleaning carbs
4) Put a dab of grease on boss on diaphragm cap. Helps spring from wear/rust.
Nice work. Very thorough. Again one of the better cleaning/ rebuilding videos I’ve seen so far.
I did mean to ask, the brass tube that is right next to the pilot jet on my carb is clogged, does this passage need to be unclogged or is it normally closed off?
Im not exactly sure what tube it is so I can't give you a good answer. Send me a picture through the email in my about page and I'll take a look.
What happens if you get carb cleaner on that diet frame
It can warp it and not let it operate properly.
Would it make it go slow at full throttle?
And can I save it or just get a new one
@@ericparadise813 Yes, it could do several things like not open all the way or open all the way and not close. It will have waves in the rubber if it's messed up. A good way to check it is to pull the carb and use your finger to lift the slide all the way up then see if it smoothly drops back down. Do that several times and also make sure it slides up smoothly. If it sticks up even one time, or has trouble sliding up smoothly, it needs to be replaced.
Awesome thank you very much