This might be a big help for first time expired film shooters. When getting expired film developed, ask the lab to add 1 or 2 stops. Depending on your expired film. 1 stop= 1 decade expired. Also add 1 or 2 stops when shooting. Again depending on your expired film. 1 stop=1 decade expired. Happy shooting🎞📸
@@great8122 Exposure settings go up in certain increments, known as stops. So when you're buying film, you'll have the option to buy 50iso, 100iso, 200iso, 400iso, 800iso, (1600iso used to be available but not anymore), and 3200iso. Each of these is a stop higher than the next one, meaning you'll have a brighter image if you use 400iso than if you use 200iso, assuming all the rest of the settings are kept the same. When you're choosing your shutter speed, that also goes up in stops, so you'll have a 250th of a second, 125th of a second, 60th, 30th, 15th, etc. Each of these is a stop of light higher than the next. Lastly, we have the aperture of the lens.This affects how large the hole that lets light in is, but also how much of your photo is in focus. So you'll have f/1.4, f/2, f/2.4, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, etc. Each of these is a stop of light lower than the next, so f/1.4 is the highest (confusingly), and lets in most light. Different cameras have different settings, for example a lot of lenses have f/3.5, or cameras with 200th of a second, but generally speaking this is how it usually is. If you adjust one setting which results in more or less light coming in, you must also adjust another setting to counteract that. For example, I may decide that since I'm taking a photo of a person rather than a still building, I'll want to move the shutter speed to 125th of a second, rather than a 60th. If I left it there, this would result in an underexposed image, because I'm letting in less light; so I have to adjust the aperture (you can't adjust the iso of a roll of film, so if you're halfway through a roll, your only exposure settings are aperture and shutter speed). If my aperture was f/2, then I'd have to bring it to the next stop down, which is f/1.4. Sometimes, it's not possible to let in more light, often because you're on your highest aperture setting (which confusingly is the lowest number) and you're shooting a moving subject like an animal or a person (people tend to move without realising), or you're shooting handheld. In this case, you'll make a record of how many stops more you need. So for example if you're shooting iso 400 at f/3.5 125s, but you need to be shooting iso 1600 f/3.5 125s, you're shooting two stops underexposed (the stop you're at +2 stops = correct exposure). You then bring it to the film lab and ask them to "push" it two stops. This means they'll keep your film in the developing chemicals for longer, bringing out more detail in the negative, and giving you a properly exposed (if more contrasty and grainy, sometimes with a shift in colour) image. Hope that helps
I used to own a one hour photo processing lab in Ft. Myers Florida. It was very depressing when digital was causing many of the photo labs to shut down. I want to say there is a big difference in quality between digital and analog film. Analog recording is more labor intensive but it is highly more attractive to the human brain. The brain runs on analog signals, digital images and audio looks and sounds similar to analog, but it is not the same. Analog is more related to the brains responses and sensory interpretations. Analog is more natural and believable to the human mind. Our brains run on analog. We are not digital humans. The attraction some humans have for analog creations reflects an emotional reaction. We react to analog quality. Digital might be cheaper and fast but it is fake. Analog resonates more closely to the human mind and sensory stimulus. I am very excited to see this resurgence of analog.
I shot an entire 135-36 Exp roll, of an old 1989 made AGFA AP400 in September 2019. Developed myself using the actual AP-X specs, cause I wasn't able to find the right time specs for the old AP. I really would like to show you some pics, but let's say that they seems photos made 30 year ago, aged not so well. I was born in 1989, and to shoot with a film that has my own age, was amazing. I still have a couple of them to shot, and I think I will use them to make some 'ancient looking' portraits.
I have gotten amazing resulsts from with 1968 polaroid type 47 aka polaroid peel apart roll film, i have found that the older the polaroid film the better results i get.
I found a decades old 400f5 reel of 35mm tri x in my grandparents house. Been shooting at an iso of 10 (5 stops overexposed!) and have received some pretty good results!
I always like to wait for one of those free eBay coupons. Got 2 rolls of expired ektachrome for $1.5. Just look at seller rating, age of film, and where it was stored.
I just got an old EOS Rebel XS from a family member, with 20 year old Kodak Max 800 film loaded, 21 exposures left. I'm not sure how well it's been stored over the past 2 decades, so it'll be interesting to see the results once I get the film finished and developed! I do know that while being brought over to me, it sat in a hot car far a the better part of the day. It's also interesting how high ISO colour film is basically non-existent these days too.
@@potatokitty The Kodak Max 800? Completely unusable. The photos were basically ultra grainy with no colour. It might have been usable as an ISO 100 film, but I didn't expose for that. It was a fun experiment, but at least the camera works fine, and I've shot some really nice photos with it since then.
I have just got a roll of Kodak Max 800 unopened & on the box "Develop before 02/2006". I have a Canon EOS 50 & would be interested to know how you went with that film? Also I just bought a roll of Kodak P3200 Tmax dated (stamped) 11/2022, FYI. I live in Australia.
@@DominicRulikowski Depending on whether the Kodak Max 800 was stored properly (like in a deep freeze), it may be possible to shoot it at ISO 800. But if it's just been sitting on a store shelf for the past 20 years, then it might only be usable as an ISO 200 film to get any good results. Even if I had known how to shoot old film at the time, I don't know if I would have been able to savage my roll. It was already loaded into the camera, and the camera itself likely sat in hot environments for extended periods of time. So my roll was likely cooked long before I got it.
Having recently purchased a few of old Agfa isolette 2's and 3's one of them had a exposed Kodacolor X inside which is c22 process which stopped being made back in 1973 I believe, but I've been told I could be developed with B&W chemicals. I will be interesting to find out when the camera was last used 70's 60's or even the 50's when the camera was made!
What you said about B&W film is not completely true. Old Kodak b&w super8 stock of decades old can still give you perfect results. Ektachrome 160 sound cards from the 80s and 90s are also a lot of fun to play with. Don't forget to find em26 process film for the Ektachrome 160. Those you can process well in e6. Did you ever tried Fujichrome single8 film. R25N is the best :). Although old r25 from the 80s through the 90s can give you green/perfect results depending on storage and your lab.
Thanks for the notes! I have seen some old stuff manage to give great results so there are definitely instances where it's still worth it! I've never personally shot some fo the Fuji Single8, but I've done some research into it before. I know some labs won't process the Ektachrome Sound stuff because it can cause issues with their machines, but it does look like certain labs will take them.
I have a roll of fujichrome 100D that expired in 1991. Apparently it's been cold stored since the camera store bought it. I'm curious as to the results.
@@emilyrivashaven’t shot it yet, but I did shoot a tool I got from the same guy. It was provia from 2002. I shot it at box speed and it turned out beautiful
I don't think you referenced this (might have missed it), but is buying long-expired ISO 100 35mm film a risk - if it's a few decades old, because film becomes less light sensitive, so I'd worry about everything coming out under exposed if my camera won't shoot lower than ISO 100? Not sure if that logic checks out or if I'm just jumping to conclusions? Thanks
Hey Noah -- thank you for all of your informative videos -- slowly working my way through them. So I have developed the bad habit (addiction! please stop me!) of buying vintage cameras -- mostly from shopgoodwill.com -- and so far my hit rate is about 75% of them work well enough to take pictures (even cameras approaching 100 years old) -- but often they come with old film, in the original packaging. Considering how dirty, grungy and odoriferous many of these cameras and accessories are, I am pretty sure that the film has been kept in horrible conditions. So I hesitate to even try any of the really old (20+ years) film. But I have run across a number of rolls of 35mm film from Seattle Film Works (and similar rebranded film) -- and I even remember seeing their ads as a teen -- buy the film and it includes the processing (prints and slides) and they send you another roll of film -- a racket, since it turns out that it was actually repackaged cinema film requiring a specific developing process -- the film is labeled "Process SFW-XL" usually -- and I am pretty sure is the ECN-II/ECN-2 process. So -- my question is, would such film produce *ANY* results if sent to a lab and processed as either C-41 or E-6? Or is that not even worth trying? Thanks!!!
I seem to be able to beat the odds. Shot 26 year old Fuji Velvia 50 in a pinhole camera. Rated it at 25 iso and the film provided shockingly great results.
Ooops -- one other question -- in this video I did not see your recommendations for adjusting exposure when shooting expired film (adjust the camera ISO setting based on how old the film is) -- or requesting that the lab push/pull the film during developing -- to get the "best" results ("best" being subjective, since of course the unexpected is to be expected!!!) -- thanks!!!
I found rolls of 120 Kodak Technical Pan, Kodak Royal X-Pan and Kodak Panatomic X from the late 80s. The seller told me that they were not stored in a cold place, but he did store them in a watertight container. I'm specially interested in the TechPan Roll, do I have any chance of actually getting good results with it, or by this point they are just too unpredictable? Cheers!
Hi noah. Big fan of the channel. I have a roll of kodak ektachrome 400hc that expired in 1993. I don't think it has been cold stored. What would be your recommendation for shooting it? Am I best to overexpose it and shoot at say iso 100 or 50 or should I just shoot it at box speed and see what happens?
Some hardcore shooters will keep their film in the fridge. (Check out Willem Verbeeck's channel). But I've never stored my film in the fridge since I usually consume the film I buy within a few weeks. You can get great results from your film without storing it in the fridge, all the way up to the expiration date, and even beyond.
@@connorbunch3577 I only keep it in the fridge if I don't use it often (sheet film, Polaroid film), or if I plan to keep it longer term because it's been discontinued (literally anything by Fuji at this point, just in case)
I have acquired 9 rolls of Agfa Isopan 135 color negative 100 ASA film, 5 rolls of 36 exp. dated July 1974 & 4 rolls of 20 exp dated July 1975. They are made in Germany and still in metal screw cap containers which are in original boxes. I plan to shoot one roll with bracketing adding 2, 3 & four stops to compensate for age. Are there any guidelines for shooting film this old (47/48 years old)?
@@c.nobody yes indeed im on Instagram and allot of it is on there and Flickr and deviantart and i have a lomohome on lomography.com. just search my name on any of those 1conocla5t.
The development method is wrong. For example: Don't use Process C41 with the film, Old Negative. You should use the process (AGFA-CNs) as it works at a temperature of 20 ° C, thus keeping the remaining layers of emulsion in good condition without being exposed to heat with the process (C41) operating at a temperature of 38 ° C. I am sure that the results will be much better and the proportion of color interference in the image will decrease and the color transfer will decrease significantly. Likewise with black and white films, you need a dual developer dedicated to old films, which was a formula invented by the photographic scientist Mr. Crowley, that restores a complete pause from the dead emulsion.
It’s okay as long as you have some time in between removing from a fridge and then shooting. So a chance for the temperature to return to room temp. Also for short periods of time you don’t necessarily need to keep it in a fridge. I usually store my stuff in a fridge if I’m not going to use it for say a couple weeks or even months.
I recently bought a S8 camera (Canon 814 XL) and discovered this amazing channel while looking for S8 info, I'm falling in love with the format. Anyways, the camera that I got came with an unopened cartridge of Afga Moviechrome A40. Based on this video, I guess it's not worth shooting and developing it? (it'll be 45€ + 15 digitize)
I wouldn't recommend it. Because Super 8 processing is such a premium service it does make it hard to really want to experiment with all those old old stocks. It's up to you though of course because you never know what could come of it. Those old color reversal stocks aren't always the most reliable and that particular film is probably between 30-35 years old now.
@@AnalogResurgence I remember Agfa Moviechrome being super grainy when compared to Kodak Super8 films available in early 1990´s. I remember this film stock was discontinued about that time. Which process it was, I don´t remember. Those times Super8 cartridges were normally sold with developing included - at least in Western Europe.
Super 8 film in general if over-hyped and the prices mirror this. Expired ektachrome 100D for over $100?? Any expired slide film should be rather cheap, but people who enjoy the stock or devleop it in specific ways to make it look better , which then hypes the stocks. I see ektachrome 64T ( which people who've a lot of experience with it say it isn't all that desirable due to its high grain and strange saturation) go for $85 PER CARTRIDGE and up. The prices i've seen are absolutely sickening and it's extremely frustrating as the majority of the stock around is being sold by these people.
Also should mention that this rule dosent work for everyone, some expired film's can be shot at box speed and some need overexposure. This is why it's important to buy multiple rolls and bracket your exposure each scene.
So, I found a sealed box of Kodacolor II, expired 1982. it was unfortunately stored in a warm environment though. Being ISO 100 would I want ISO 25 or 12 to shoot on?
For something like that it's going to be unpredictable no matter what you shoot it as because of the age and storage. I would say ISO 25 might be okay, but there's no telling how it could turn out really until you shoot it!
@@AnalogResurgence thanks for the reply! Yeah, I'll be holding onto it for the time being but I do hope to shoot it someday, maybe unpredictable can end up rather cool haha
It also really depends on the brand of the film how well or bad it ages. In my experience, Kodak film ages poorly, 3M/Ferrania film ages really well. Interestingly enough, film that uses old developing processes like ORWO 9165, Agfa AP 41, Ektachrome E4 or Kodachrome K14 age better than film developed in current processes like E6 or C4. A friend of mine got some really decent pictures out of 1960´s colour slide and colour negative films, developed in original chemistry. By the way: Kodachrome gives immaculate black and white slides most of the time! You just need to process it correctly. Here is a link to the process: aphognext.com/forum/index.php/Thread/38701-Kodachrome-zu-brillantem-SW-Umkehr-Film-entwickeln/
Had this happen with a Kodak Gold vs. Ilfocolor 126 film, both shot with the same Kodak Instamatic. The Ilfocolor roll aged quite well, with interesting contrasts and reddish brown hues, while Kodak Gold shots looked very dark and lifeless, with half the roll having indistinguishable shapes in near total darkness instead of photos.
@@materiagrezza9331 Yes, that´s in line with my experiences. Kodacolor II ages especially afwul I think. Kodak Gold does better, but as it´s the successor of Kodacolor II, there are similarities...
If it’s for the older cameras or even the Spectra. The battery for the camera is in the film pack and like other batteries these batteries will eventually die rendering your film unusable. Don’t use expired instant film like that. I have tried and the chemicals forming the emulsion just dry up.
person xie the battery is probably dead but you could transfer the whole pack to a new cartridge (if you buy a new pack of film). But it should go without saying instant film from 20years ago might not yield the ‘best’ results b/c the chemicals may have dried up at least partially
![Guide to Expired Polaroid Film [Instant Breakdown]](/img/1.gif)
"can give you unexpected results"
that's why I want use expired film
right. im hoping for some nice light leaks.
This might be a big help for first time expired film shooters. When getting expired film developed, ask the lab to add 1 or 2 stops. Depending on your expired film. 1 stop= 1 decade expired. Also add 1 or 2 stops when shooting. Again depending on your expired film. 1 stop=1 decade expired. Happy shooting🎞📸
What does stop mean?
@@great8122 Exposure settings go up in certain increments, known as stops. So when you're buying film, you'll have the option to buy 50iso, 100iso, 200iso, 400iso, 800iso, (1600iso used to be available but not anymore), and 3200iso. Each of these is a stop higher than the next one, meaning you'll have a brighter image if you use 400iso than if you use 200iso, assuming all the rest of the settings are kept the same.
When you're choosing your shutter speed, that also goes up in stops, so you'll have a 250th of a second, 125th of a second, 60th, 30th, 15th, etc. Each of these is a stop of light higher than the next.
Lastly, we have the aperture of the lens.This affects how large the hole that lets light in is, but also how much of your photo is in focus. So you'll have f/1.4, f/2, f/2.4, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, etc. Each of these is a stop of light lower than the next, so f/1.4 is the highest (confusingly), and lets in most light.
Different cameras have different settings, for example a lot of lenses have f/3.5, or cameras with 200th of a second, but generally speaking this is how it usually is.
If you adjust one setting which results in more or less light coming in, you must also adjust another setting to counteract that. For example, I may decide that since I'm taking a photo of a person rather than a still building, I'll want to move the shutter speed to 125th of a second, rather than a 60th. If I left it there, this would result in an underexposed image, because I'm letting in less light; so I have to adjust the aperture (you can't adjust the iso of a roll of film, so if you're halfway through a roll, your only exposure settings are aperture and shutter speed). If my aperture was f/2, then I'd have to bring it to the next stop down, which is f/1.4.
Sometimes, it's not possible to let in more light, often because you're on your highest aperture setting (which confusingly is the lowest number) and you're shooting a moving subject like an animal or a person (people tend to move without realising), or you're shooting handheld. In this case, you'll make a record of how many stops more you need. So for example if you're shooting iso 400 at f/3.5 125s, but you need to be shooting iso 1600 f/3.5 125s, you're shooting two stops underexposed (the stop you're at +2 stops = correct exposure). You then bring it to the film lab and ask them to "push" it two stops. This means they'll keep your film in the developing chemicals for longer, bringing out more detail in the negative, and giving you a properly exposed (if more contrasty and grainy, sometimes with a shift in colour) image.
Hope that helps
What if I shoot The film with the added stops? (Like shotting 100 iso at 25) Do I need to ask for The film to be pushed in developing as well?
I used to own a one hour photo processing lab in Ft. Myers Florida. It was very depressing when digital was causing many of the photo labs to shut down. I want to say there is a big difference in quality between digital and analog film. Analog recording is more labor intensive but it is highly more attractive to the human brain. The brain runs on analog signals, digital images and audio looks and sounds similar to analog, but it is not the same. Analog is more related to the brains responses and sensory interpretations. Analog is more natural and believable to the human mind. Our brains run on analog. We are not digital humans. The attraction some humans have for analog creations reflects an emotional reaction. We react to analog quality. Digital might be cheaper and fast but it is fake. Analog resonates more closely to the human mind and sensory stimulus. I am very excited to see this resurgence of analog.
I shot an entire 135-36 Exp roll, of an old 1989 made AGFA AP400 in September 2019.
Developed myself using the actual AP-X specs, cause I wasn't able to find the right time specs for the old AP.
I really would like to show you some pics, but let's say that they seems photos made 30 year ago, aged not so well.
I was born in 1989, and to shoot with a film that has my own age, was amazing.
I still have a couple of them to shot, and I think I will use them to make some 'ancient looking' portraits.
You're like the Ken Burns of informative youtube content
I have gotten amazing resulsts from with 1968 polaroid type 47 aka polaroid peel apart roll film, i have found that the older the polaroid film the better results i get.
I found a decades old 400f5 reel of 35mm tri x in my grandparents house. Been shooting at an iso of 10 (5 stops overexposed!) and have received some pretty good results!
I always like to wait for one of those free eBay coupons. Got 2 rolls of expired ektachrome for $1.5. Just look at seller rating, age of film, and where it was stored.
I live in saskatchewan and have never heard of film rescue before thank you for the info!
I just got an old EOS Rebel XS from a family member, with 20 year old Kodak Max 800 film loaded, 21 exposures left. I'm not sure how well it's been stored over the past 2 decades, so it'll be interesting to see the results once I get the film finished and developed! I do know that while being brought over to me, it sat in a hot car far a the better part of the day.
It's also interesting how high ISO colour film is basically non-existent these days too.
How did it turn out?
@@potatokitty The Kodak Max 800? Completely unusable. The photos were basically ultra grainy with no colour. It might have been usable as an ISO 100 film, but I didn't expose for that. It was a fun experiment, but at least the camera works fine, and I've shot some really nice photos with it since then.
I have just got a roll of Kodak Max 800 unopened & on the box "Develop before 02/2006". I have a Canon EOS 50 & would be interested to know how you went with that film? Also I just bought a roll of Kodak P3200 Tmax dated (stamped) 11/2022, FYI. I live in Australia.
@@DominicRulikowski Depending on whether the Kodak Max 800 was stored properly (like in a deep freeze), it may be possible to shoot it at ISO 800. But if it's just been sitting on a store shelf for the past 20 years, then it might only be usable as an ISO 200 film to get any good results.
Even if I had known how to shoot old film at the time, I don't know if I would have been able to savage my roll. It was already loaded into the camera, and the camera itself likely sat in hot environments for extended periods of time. So my roll was likely cooked long before I got it.
Having recently purchased a few of old Agfa isolette 2's and 3's one of them had a exposed Kodacolor X inside which is c22 process which stopped being made back in 1973 I believe, but I've been told I could be developed with B&W chemicals. I will be interesting to find out when the camera was last used 70's 60's or even the 50's when the camera was made!
I really appreciate these videos!
Informative posting! Kodachrome RIP, Sadly.
What you said about B&W film is not completely true. Old Kodak b&w super8 stock of decades old can still give you perfect results. Ektachrome 160 sound cards from the 80s and 90s are also a lot of fun to play with. Don't forget to find em26 process film for the Ektachrome 160. Those you can process well in e6. Did you ever tried Fujichrome single8 film. R25N is the best :). Although old r25 from the 80s through the 90s can give you green/perfect results depending on storage and your lab.
Thanks for the notes! I have seen some old stuff manage to give great results so there are definitely instances where it's still worth it! I've never personally shot some fo the Fuji Single8, but I've done some research into it before. I know some labs won't process the Ektachrome Sound stuff because it can cause issues with their machines, but it does look like certain labs will take them.
I have a roll of fujichrome 100D that expired in 1991. Apparently it's been cold stored since the camera store bought it.
I'm curious as to the results.
hi! how did the photos turn out? do you recommend buying expired film from the 90s?
@@emilyrivashaven’t shot it yet, but I did shoot a tool I got from the same guy. It was provia from 2002. I shot it at box speed and it turned out beautiful
Avoid kodachrome: says the guy that usually sits by a table with serveral kodachrome products in front of him.
I don't think you referenced this (might have missed it), but is buying long-expired ISO 100 35mm film a risk - if it's a few decades old, because film becomes less light sensitive, so I'd worry about everything coming out under exposed if my camera won't shoot lower than ISO 100? Not sure if that logic checks out or if I'm just jumping to conclusions? Thanks
What about APS? Its a dead somewhat expired format that is fun to shoot and labs such as the darkroom still develop the film.
Hey Noah -- thank you for all of your informative videos -- slowly working my way through them. So I have developed the bad habit (addiction! please stop me!) of buying vintage cameras -- mostly from shopgoodwill.com -- and so far my hit rate is about 75% of them work well enough to take pictures (even cameras approaching 100 years old) -- but often they come with old film, in the original packaging. Considering how dirty, grungy and odoriferous many of these cameras and accessories are, I am pretty sure that the film has been kept in horrible conditions. So I hesitate to even try any of the really old (20+ years) film. But I have run across a number of rolls of 35mm film from Seattle Film Works (and similar rebranded film) -- and I even remember seeing their ads as a teen -- buy the film and it includes the processing (prints and slides) and they send you another roll of film -- a racket, since it turns out that it was actually repackaged cinema film requiring a specific developing process -- the film is labeled "Process SFW-XL" usually -- and I am pretty sure is the ECN-II/ECN-2 process. So -- my question is, would such film produce *ANY* results if sent to a lab and processed as either C-41 or E-6? Or is that not even worth trying? Thanks!!!
Great stuff!
I seem to be able to beat the odds. Shot 26 year old Fuji Velvia 50 in a pinhole camera. Rated it at 25 iso and the film provided shockingly great results.
You have a very good channel :)
Ooops -- one other question -- in this video I did not see your recommendations for adjusting exposure when shooting expired film (adjust the camera ISO setting based on how old the film is) -- or requesting that the lab push/pull the film during developing -- to get the "best" results ("best" being subjective, since of course the unexpected is to be expected!!!) -- thanks!!!
I found rolls of 120 Kodak Technical Pan, Kodak Royal X-Pan and Kodak Panatomic X from the late 80s. The seller told me that they were not stored in a cold place, but he did store them in a watertight container. I'm specially interested in the TechPan Roll, do I have any chance of actually getting good results with it, or by this point they are just too unpredictable? Cheers!
Hi noah. Big fan of the channel. I have a roll of kodak ektachrome 400hc that expired in 1993. I don't think it has been cold stored. What would be your recommendation for shooting it? Am I best to overexpose it and shoot at say iso 100 or 50 or should I just shoot it at box speed and see what happens?
brilliant video
Just bought 50 expired super 8 film, well 17 b&w and 33 color film, for really cheap so i really hope they will still look good
where did you bought them from?
@@pedromjlopes secondhand website from my country, they ended up not being usable tho, the film was completely brown
I recently started using 35mm film as a complete beginner, should I keep the film in the fridge ? I do this with my Polaroid instant film
Some hardcore shooters will keep their film in the fridge. (Check out Willem Verbeeck's channel). But I've never stored my film in the fridge since I usually consume the film I buy within a few weeks. You can get great results from your film without storing it in the fridge, all the way up to the expiration date, and even beyond.
@@connorbunch3577 I only keep it in the fridge if I don't use it often (sheet film, Polaroid film), or if I plan to keep it longer term because it's been discontinued (literally anything by Fuji at this point, just in case)
I have acquired 9 rolls of Agfa Isopan 135 color negative 100 ASA film, 5 rolls of 36 exp. dated July 1974 & 4 rolls of 20 exp dated July 1975. They are made in Germany and still in metal screw cap containers which are in original boxes. I plan to shoot one roll with bracketing adding 2, 3 & four stops to compensate for age. Are there any guidelines for shooting film this old (47/48 years old)?
I've had allot of fun shooting expired 120 slide film and cross processing it. I've gotten some really amazing unique images doing that.
1CONOCLA5T that’s awesome! is there anywhere I can check out your work?
@@c.nobody yes indeed im on Instagram and allot of it is on there and Flickr and deviantart and i have a lomohome on lomography.com. just search my name on any of those 1conocla5t.
Really like you channel!
The development method is wrong.
For example: Don't use Process C41 with the film, Old Negative. You should use the process (AGFA-CNs) as it works at a temperature of 20 ° C, thus keeping the remaining layers of emulsion in good condition without being exposed to heat with the process (C41) operating at a temperature of 38 ° C.
I am sure that the results will be much better and the proportion of color interference in the image will decrease and the color transfer will decrease significantly.
Likewise with black and white films, you need a dual developer dedicated to old films, which was a formula invented by the photographic scientist Mr. Crowley, that restores a complete pause from the dead emulsion.
Welp I wish I'd read this before buying a pack of slide film that expired 30 years ago
I have a BH 141B camera and a flip 8. How do you shop for discount 16mm 2perf and flip 8mm?
Is it ok to take film in and out of the fridge? Like if I travel, get out of fridge, leave on minibar and take out etc
It’s okay as long as you have some time in between removing from a fridge and then shooting. So a chance for the temperature to return to room temp. Also for short periods of time you don’t necessarily need to keep it in a fridge. I usually store my stuff in a fridge if I’m not going to use it for say a couple weeks or even months.
I recently bought a S8 camera (Canon 814 XL) and discovered this amazing channel while looking for S8 info, I'm falling in love with the format. Anyways, the camera that I got came with an unopened cartridge of Afga Moviechrome A40. Based on this video, I guess it's not worth shooting and developing it? (it'll be 45€ + 15 digitize)
I wouldn't recommend it. Because Super 8 processing is such a premium service it does make it hard to really want to experiment with all those old old stocks. It's up to you though of course because you never know what could come of it. Those old color reversal stocks aren't always the most reliable and that particular film is probably between 30-35 years old now.
@@AnalogResurgence Any 35mm film that mimics Kodachrome?
@@AnalogResurgence I remember Agfa Moviechrome being super grainy when compared to Kodak Super8 films available in early 1990´s. I remember this film stock was discontinued about that time. Which process it was, I don´t remember. Those times Super8 cartridges were normally sold with developing included - at least in Western Europe.
What program do you use to make your graphics? Love the channel.
Graphics and editing are all done by myself in Premiere Pro (editing) and After Effects (graphics) with some photoshop when I need it.
@@AnalogResurgence Thanks for the speedy reply! I'm really trying to learn After Effects.
Super 8 film in general if over-hyped and the prices mirror this. Expired ektachrome 100D for over $100?? Any expired slide film should be rather cheap, but people who enjoy the stock or devleop it in specific ways to make it look better , which then hypes the stocks. I see ektachrome 64T ( which people who've a lot of experience with it say it isn't all that desirable due to its high grain and strange saturation) go for $85 PER CARTRIDGE and up. The prices i've seen are absolutely sickening and it's extremely frustrating as the majority of the stock around is being sold by these people.
You forgot the fact of the batteries on Polaroid 600 film. No matter in how good condition the chemical is, the batteriy is gonna be messed up!
how do you know this stuff??
what do you do for work???
Also should mention the general rule to overexposed +1 stop for each decade the film (BW/c41) is expired.
bwvids this is ridiculous and one of the most ignorant myths in film
Also should mention that this rule dosent work for everyone, some expired film's can be shot at box speed and some need overexposure. This is why it's important to buy multiple rolls and bracket your exposure each scene.
drinking game: take a shot each time Noah says unpredictable
This was an asshole move, I'm a huge fan of the channel, sorry xD
Even tho I have Kodak vision 3 color negative film should I still put it in the refrigerator?
For long term storage yes!
So, I found a sealed box of Kodacolor II, expired 1982. it was unfortunately stored in a warm environment though. Being ISO 100 would I want ISO 25 or 12 to shoot on?
For something like that it's going to be unpredictable no matter what you shoot it as because of the age and storage. I would say ISO 25 might be okay, but there's no telling how it could turn out really until you shoot it!
@@AnalogResurgence thanks for the reply! Yeah, I'll be holding onto it for the time being but I do hope to shoot it someday, maybe unpredictable can end up rather cool haha
It also really depends on the brand of the film how well or bad it ages. In my experience, Kodak film ages poorly, 3M/Ferrania film ages really well. Interestingly enough, film that uses old developing processes like ORWO 9165, Agfa AP 41, Ektachrome E4 or Kodachrome K14 age better than film developed in current processes like E6 or C4. A friend of mine got some really decent pictures out of 1960´s colour slide and colour negative films, developed in original chemistry.
By the way: Kodachrome gives immaculate black and white slides most of the time! You just need to process it correctly. Here is a link to the process: aphognext.com/forum/index.php/Thread/38701-Kodachrome-zu-brillantem-SW-Umkehr-Film-entwickeln/
Yea thats definitly true, it really is the wild wild west especially if you're buying it online
Had this happen with a Kodak Gold vs. Ilfocolor 126 film, both shot with the same Kodak Instamatic. The Ilfocolor roll aged quite well, with interesting contrasts and reddish brown hues, while Kodak Gold shots looked very dark and lifeless, with half the roll having indistinguishable shapes in near total darkness instead of photos.
@@materiagrezza9331 Yes, that´s in line with my experiences. Kodacolor II ages especially afwul I think. Kodak Gold does better, but as it´s the successor of Kodacolor II, there are similarities...
I like you
nice channel :) just found it
If I shoot a 400 speed film that expired 10 years ago and left in a camera bag. Do I set the iso to 200?
I would even go 100, you never know how it’s going to look after that time!
is it safe to store them with food in the fridge?
Yes!
@@AnalogResurgence thanks! is it okay also to store expired film in the fridge with food?
I have 20 year old Polaroid film, and the dark slide don’t even eject
If it’s for the older cameras or even the Spectra. The battery for the camera is in the film pack and like other batteries these batteries will eventually die rendering your film unusable. Don’t use expired instant film like that. I have tried and the chemicals forming the emulsion just dry up.
person xie the battery is probably dead but you could transfer the whole pack to a new cartridge (if you buy a new pack of film). But it should go without saying instant film from 20years ago might not yield the ‘best’ results b/c the chemicals may have dried up at least partially