To add some info to this.... Reference Honda TSB 20-023. It clearly states to replace the top section and the gaskets to fix this leak. You have to buy the entire part spool valve assembly which includes the lower section below the gasket also. According to the TSB you replace the top section and the gasket and leave the bottom section untouched (basically you don't use the new lower section of the new spool valve). This info is from Honda themselves for this known issue. The TSB lists 0.8 hours to make this repair.
@@autopurlieu I don’t get what you mean by that exactly My point is I feel like you replaced the entire assembly and you didn’t need to. You pointed out where the leak is and Honda states you don’t need to replace the bottom section to fix the leak. Honda also does not sell just the gaskets themselves. So that is forcing you to buy the entire assembly for the gaskets and the top section of the valve.
@@connorgaston9535 this job has been done for awhile now. I can’t go back and re do it again. I found that tbs procedure after I’ve finished this job. I also talked to a friend of mine who works at Honda dealer. In order to not to remove the whole pieces , you must buy the whole oem part (too and bottom) then take the top part only and install it. My video replaces the whole pieces because this is not an OEM part.
My car was leaking similarly. Only replaced the top part of the valve. I used aftermarket part and so far works fine. The cost less than 10th of the oem part. Any way thanks for showing us the full replacement procedure in case required.
I successfully replaced my 1st spool valve watching this video and onto the 2nd one tomorrow… You need to do a valve adjustment after this repair though! Most of the valves should be within spec but it’s part of the OEM repair procedure to include a valve adjustment with the spool valve.
Thank you for making this video so @connergaston9535 could comment and save some of us the headache of ripping the intake out and messing with the valve cover gasket. Saves me so much time knowing I can just replace the lower gasket and the upper assembly instead of doing the lower block too. I get that you didn't know this when making this video as I am sure you wouldn't have replaced the lower had you known.
Update: Worked flawlessly. Installed new gasket in lower and installed entire upper, no more leak and no more check engine light. Thanks for the video.
This is an excellent video!! I feel like I can do it!! I’m not sure about the valve adjustment but there is another video I saw for that that I think I can do it.
Only replace the top half of the assembly!! Do NOT replace the entire unit!!! You only have to replace the top half, and thats 3 bolts to undo and then replace the gaskets with the new, put it back together and you're done 👍 This process is too much to do and requires a valve job
Yes, I use electronic cleaner on mine when I have it, but I used engine degreaser today, sprayed it on, let it sit for 10 minutes, rinsed it off with low pressure water and then hit it with a leaf blower to get all the water out.
II have replaced the top portion of this on my 2008 Odyssey and discovered I have a pretty loud chirping noise under this or near the bank 2 crank shaft pulley. Have you ever heard of this noise being cased by the lower portion?
How likely is a leak from under the assembly itself? Not just the portion with the gaskets, but the actual bottom of the spool valve assembly. Does oil flow under it? I replaced the gaskets (not oem, I know), but while I had the top half off, I noticed that it wasn’t leaking from the area with the gaskets, but seemed like it was farther down if that makes sense. Also, no engine codes from replacing with aftermarket gaskets.
Now that I’ve watched further into the video, the area where you’re talking about putting the sealant on is what I’m referring to. I see now that oil does flow under it.
Even with honda oem spool valve the whole part and gaskets from honda it still dribbles and leaks. I cant seem to get it right any suggestions? Its just barely a dribble.
Hello AutoPurliue; I replaced the spool valve assembly, put the honda bond on it, and put everything back. The car sounds bad and it only stays on for a couple seconds. Do you think that I need to adjust the valves? I double checked everything else and it is in place. The car was fine before this.
I am getting a P302 DTC; Cylinder 2 misfire; makes no sense; I did not touch that side; it was the front spool valve assembly that was replaced. Do you think I need to do a valve adjustment? @@autopurlieu
The valve generally doesn't 'malfunction'. That little rubber gasket dries up and it leaks oil. Due to it's location, that oil drips right down into the alternator below, which ruins the alternator. If the leak gets really bad and/or you don't change your oil often enough, the lack of oil pressure can also cause the valve sensor to trip as cause a CEL.
Could you damage the catalytic converters if not careful when doing this job? Had this exact leak fixed and I hadn't gotten 2 minutes down the road and the van through its first ever check engine light. I had the code read and it was p0420 and p0430 saying hte cats were bad. Never had a problem until I took it into Honda. I have 160,000+ miles.
What year is your Honda? If it is a 2017-19 Pilot/Ridgeline or 2018-19 Odyssey then it's covered under service bulletin SB21-010. Regardless if it is or isn't, P0420 and P0430 are Rear Bank Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) and Front Bank Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2). This is typically due to faulty fuel injectors or a bad cat. The Service Bulletin I mentioned is usually fixed with fuel injectors. I would recommend bringing it to a shop [Honda to check for warranty], and ask them to perform a CAF [Cylinder Air Fuel test], this will determine if your fuel injectors are bad or not. Hope this helped!
@@cody4873 2008 Honda Odyssey EXL. 172,000'ish miles. Got a price of $3,200 to do both bank 1 and bank 2. I decided since the blockage isn't bad and the check engine light is going off and coming on on occassion I'm going to wait to do it this fall when the vehicle has to be inspected. That will give me some time to get the money together and pay cash to fix it. If the van hadn't been literally perfect since I bought it brand new and so darn reliable I wouldn't fix it, but it has been literally the best vehicle I've ever owned....plus it is pretty sentimental to me and my wife since all of our kids have grown up in it and our oldest is now driving it to school.
Honda doesn’t sell just the gaskets . And all the. oEm gasket you see that’s available aren’t original (aftermarket ), they will not fit good perfectly . It will stop the leak but will cause engine code . Replacing the whole piece, will have prevent all that. More work but less worries . I got them in rock auto
Thanks for replying!! My son and I are getting ready to work on his 2010 Accord EX-L 3.5l V6. Should be the same procedure. Sucks that Honda doesn’t just sell the gaskets!!!!
@@royhoriuchi5026 if you wanted to do the easy way but almost the same cost. Buy the whole spool valve from the dealer then just switch out the gaskets. That will be exactly identical and will not throw some code . You guys can do it !
To add some info to this.... Reference Honda TSB 20-023. It clearly states to replace the top section and the gaskets to fix this leak. You have to buy the entire part spool valve assembly which includes the lower section below the gasket also. According to the TSB you replace the top section and the gasket and leave the bottom section untouched (basically you don't use the new lower section of the new spool valve). This info is from Honda themselves for this known issue. The TSB lists 0.8 hours to make this repair.
Thankx for that info. I believe that should be an OEM part so it’s a perfectly match 👍🏽
@@autopurlieu I don’t get what you mean by that exactly
My point is I feel like you replaced the entire assembly and you didn’t need to. You pointed out where the leak is and Honda states you don’t need to replace the bottom section to fix the leak. Honda also does not sell just the gaskets themselves. So that is forcing you to buy the entire assembly for the gaskets and the top section of the valve.
@@connorgaston9535 this job has been done for awhile now. I can’t go back and re do it again. I found that tbs procedure after I’ve finished this job.
I also talked to a friend of mine who works at Honda dealer.
In order to not to remove the whole pieces , you must buy the whole oem part (too and bottom) then take the top part only and install it.
My video replaces the whole pieces because this is not an OEM part.
My car was leaking similarly. Only replaced the top part of the valve. I used aftermarket part and so far works fine. The cost less than 10th of the oem part. Any way thanks for showing us the full replacement procedure in case required.
@@ahmedrasool5 what after market part did you use? The Dorman valve assembly or just aftermarket gaskets?
you are such a great mechanic. you detailed video is 10 times better than many others on the web. thank you
Thank you for your support 🙏
I successfully replaced my 1st spool valve watching this video and onto the 2nd one tomorrow… You need to do a valve adjustment after this repair though! Most of the valves should be within spec but it’s part of the OEM repair procedure to include a valve adjustment with the spool valve.
Excellent vídeo bro. The best explanation I have been searching for, and I have searched a lot.
I’m glad it helped 🙏
Thanks for posting. I've been looking for a video of the rocker arm removal
I hope it helps. Thankx for your support 🙏
Thank you for making this video so @connergaston9535 could comment and save some of us the headache of ripping the intake out and messing with the valve cover gasket. Saves me so much time knowing I can just replace the lower gasket and the upper assembly instead of doing the lower block too. I get that you didn't know this when making this video as I am sure you wouldn't have replaced the lower had you known.
Update: Worked flawlessly. Installed new gasket in lower and installed entire upper, no more leak and no more check engine light. Thanks for the video.
This is an excellent video!! I feel like I can do it!! I’m not sure about the valve adjustment but there is another video I saw for that that I think I can do it.
Only replace the top half of the assembly!! Do NOT replace the entire unit!!! You only have to replace the top half, and thats 3 bolts to undo and then replace the gaskets with the new, put it back together and you're done 👍 This process is too much to do and requires a valve job
Does that dipstick tube come out separately?
is it ok, the hit the alternator with engine cleaner after doing this to clean things up?
Should be fine
Yes, I use electronic cleaner on mine when I have it, but I used engine degreaser today, sprayed it on, let it sit for 10 minutes, rinsed it off with low pressure water and then hit it with a leaf blower to get all the water out.
Brake cleaner 👍
II have replaced the top portion of this on my 2008 Odyssey and discovered I have a pretty loud chirping noise under this or near the bank 2 crank shaft pulley. Have you ever heard of this noise being cased by the lower portion?
Unless you put OEM top with OEM gasket, you won’t have that problem
How likely is a leak from under the assembly itself? Not just the portion with the gaskets, but the actual bottom of the spool valve assembly. Does oil flow under it? I replaced the gaskets (not oem, I know), but while I had the top half off, I noticed that it wasn’t leaking from the area with the gaskets, but seemed like it was farther down if that makes sense. Also, no engine codes from replacing with aftermarket gaskets.
Now that I’ve watched further into the video, the area where you’re talking about putting the sealant on is what I’m referring to. I see now that oil does flow under it.
Also, what are the torque specs on everything once the plenum is off? I can’t find it anywhere.
@@justinyelverton 10mm head bolts torque at 9ft/lbs
12 mm head bolts torque at 16ft/lbs
@@autopurlieu so the rocker arms only torque to 9ft lbs?
@@justinyelverton rocker arms are 17-23ft/lbs
Is ot the same process for the rear bank? Does the valves need to be calibration after repair?
Thank you 🤚🏼
Hi, I* need to do the something on a Pilot 2012. Do you make a great video, very instructional. Thanks!
Thank you
Is there a possibility you can send me all the torque specs for this job as I'm replacing mine this weekend thanks in advance
Was this an OEM spool valve or aftermarket? I have the same issue on my 2011 and was wondering if I can order aftermarket spool valve.
Don’t bother getting aftermarket, aftermarket give engine codes or doesn’t fix the leaks .
Does anybody have torque specs on that v tech plate bolts?
Good evening friend, after doing that work the valves become uncalibrated.
Even with honda oem spool valve the whole part and gaskets from honda it still dribbles and leaks. I cant seem to get it right any suggestions? Its just barely a dribble.
Where did you get the OEM spool valve kit ?
Thank you 👍👍👍
I hope it helped 👍🏽
Hello AutoPurliue; I replaced the spool valve assembly, put the honda bond on it, and put everything back. The car sounds bad and it only stays on for a couple seconds. Do you think that I need to adjust the valves? I double checked everything else and it is in place. The car was fine before this.
What brand spool valve ?
It is a honda spool valve. @@autopurlieuI am getting a check emission system light.
@@gabecolon5976 Honda brand from the dealer ?
You need to be specific on emission check engine light , it could be anything. What’s the code ?
Yes; it is honda brand; I got it from Hondacarpartsdirect.@@autopurlieu I will run the OBii scan and let you know. Thank you for your help.
I am getting a P302 DTC; Cylinder 2 misfire; makes no sense; I did not touch that side; it was the front spool valve assembly that was replaced. Do you think I need to do a valve adjustment?
@@autopurlieu
Does this require a valve adjustment after installation?
It will not affect your valve clearance .
May I ask what usually causes the malfunction of these valves? Thanks
The valve generally doesn't 'malfunction'. That little rubber gasket dries up and it leaks oil. Due to it's location, that oil drips right down into the alternator below, which ruins the alternator. If the leak gets really bad and/or you don't change your oil often enough, the lack of oil pressure can also cause the valve sensor to trip as cause a CEL.
@@daveclark8337 thank you
Could you damage the catalytic converters if not careful when doing this job? Had this exact leak fixed and I hadn't gotten 2 minutes down the road and the van through its first ever check engine light. I had the code read and it was p0420 and p0430 saying hte cats were bad. Never had a problem until I took it into Honda. I have 160,000+ miles.
Try to clear them first. And just double check your work.
It could be an outlier codes
What year is your Honda? If it is a 2017-19 Pilot/Ridgeline or 2018-19 Odyssey then it's covered under service bulletin SB21-010.
Regardless if it is or isn't, P0420 and P0430 are Rear Bank Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) and Front Bank Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2).
This is typically due to faulty fuel injectors or a bad cat.
The Service Bulletin I mentioned is usually fixed with fuel injectors. I would recommend bringing it to a shop [Honda to check for warranty], and ask them to perform a CAF [Cylinder Air Fuel test], this will determine if your fuel injectors are bad or not.
Hope this helped!
@@cody4873 2008 Honda Odyssey EXL. 172,000'ish miles. Got a price of $3,200 to do both bank 1 and bank 2. I decided since the blockage isn't bad and the check engine light is going off and coming on on occassion I'm going to wait to do it this fall when the vehicle has to be inspected. That will give me some time to get the money together and pay cash to fix it. If the van hadn't been literally perfect since I bought it brand new and so darn reliable I wouldn't fix it, but it has been literally the best vehicle I've ever owned....plus it is pretty sentimental to me and my wife since all of our kids have grown up in it and our oldest is now driving it to school.
Why you did not change just the spool gasket?
Also what brand did you use for this? NTK from rockauto or Honda brand?
Honda doesn’t sell just the gaskets . And all the. oEm gasket you see that’s available aren’t original (aftermarket ), they will not fit good perfectly . It will stop the leak but will cause engine code .
Replacing the whole piece, will have prevent all that. More work but less worries . I got them in rock auto
@@autopurlieu Mahle sells the OE Gaskets, Nice Upsell.
Where are you located bro? Can I get my 2016 odyssey fix by you?
I’m having the same exact problem.
NC
Did you have to remove the timing belt? As lifting the rocker arm assembly would lossen it
I didn’t touch the camshaft . You should be fine with it
i desperately need a video on the rear one
Should be the same process but in the opposite side
@@autopurlieu do i still have to put the sealant ? if so which one do you recommend that i can find at local auto shop
@@Apulux use the HondaBond HT. They have it on Amazon too
@@autopurlieu thank you so much!!
@@autopurlieu any alternative that’s just as good though ?
couldnt you have removed that front spool valve without taking off the valve cover?
I replaced the whole piece, not just the gasket and filter
Did you have to do a valve adjustment ?
No I did not.
Did you just do the one side or both?
@@royhoriuchi5026 yes. The other side was dry
Thanks for replying!! My son and I are getting ready to work on his 2010 Accord EX-L 3.5l V6. Should be the same procedure. Sucks that Honda doesn’t just sell the gaskets!!!!
@@royhoriuchi5026 if you wanted to do the easy way but almost the same cost.
Buy the whole spool valve from the dealer then just switch out the gaskets. That will be exactly identical and will not throw some code .
You guys can do it !
❤❤❤
How much for the same job?
Front side is 2.7hr labor time.
Rear side is 3.2hr labor time.
Why you remove everything 🙆🏻♂️
Because that’s what customers wanted to do.