Thank you very much for your comments, the 200-500mm works great with the Z6II and I plan on doing a video soon on how I've set-up my Z6II for bird photography
Thanks for the Z6ii AF setups for birds. We won't have long to wait for the Z6iii if the rumors are true - that should be a beast for bird photography. Smaller and cheaper than the Z8/Z9.🙃
Thank you Charles for you teaching skills Soon I am going to do air show using Z6ii 200-500 mm Love to hear from you some setting tips to get better results with your latest related videos I appreciate your consideration and support
Thank you asking, here's a couple of videos to help you out. How To Photograph planes at Airshows ruclips.net/video/Xrlrm_z0DJg/видео.htmlsi=jsOSrHdtZ5mYjz8n Airshow Photography with Nikon Z6II ruclips.net/video/zsVX8_Uw9AA/видео.htmlsi=BF6VHDMo1gCuREnm
Subscribed. I think this will be a video I watch more than once. I appreciated the focus on bird photography. Not many around at this time of year near Toronto, but that will change… .
Thanks for the sub! and there'll be many more videos on Bird Photography in 2023 as this is what I will be focusing most of my attention on in the coming year.
Hi Charles Thanks for all your great videoes Today was my first day using Nikon Z6II and Nikon 200-500 mm. Its for birds - stills and in the future when the are flying. I tried with some Of your settings using it for U2 and U3. Lets say U2: F5.6. Shutterspeed. 800. Auto ISO. Now….nornally I would use S-AF mayby C-AF. And wide S…. But I am really confused because you as a proof use 4 different settings at time. Could you please help me with some “standard” settings for U2 stills and U3 for when they are flying 🙏🙏 Best regards Thomas
Okay, so here's what I've programmed in U2! Shutter speed: 1/1600, I adjust this if it's a small bird like a swallow or Wren then 1/2000, the smaller the bird the faster you want to have your shutter speed to freeze the bird. Aperture: F5.6 If there are a couple of birds close together, then I'll increase it to F8 ISO: Set to Auto-ISO always Focus Mode: Single Point If I'm beside a lake and there's like an Egret walking around I may use Wide-Area (Small) Metering: Center-Weighted White Balance: Natural Light Auto Shutter Release Mode: I use Continuous High Ext:, you can use Continuous High, but that only gives you 5.5fps. Picture Control: I used to use Portrait, but now use Pop 3. I find that using Pop 3 is better as I sometimes shoot Raw + JPG at the same time for my RUclips Videos, and Pop 3 gives me great colours. Picture Control Settings do not affect your Raw file. ----- Watch this video as well Wildlife Photography 12bit or 14bit raw ruclips.net/video/rgR72SYCR3s/видео.htmlfeature=shared
Hi Charles Thanks for your answer and details for settings. I must admit that I tried with my Nikon z50 and 200-500 mm. Today the Sun were there. I have made my settings for U1 and U2. No Wind….I Saw some ducks and a small bird almost 4-5 m from me. F5.6 tried also with 7.1. Shutterspeed 1250 and tried 2000. Auto ISO which were 400….but also 4000….when there were more trees But still okay with Sun. No one was okay. Very blurry and not Sharp enough. It was on Tripod. I am really frustrated. Best regards Thomas
With Dynamic it's important to lock focus on the center point. The other points are in case the subject moves off the center point (but the center point has the most weight to it). Once you lock focus and maintain focus, the object can move around within the 9 points. Obivously it can be fooled by other things within the 9-pint grid, which is why it's important to lock focus (and hold focus if you need to while you recompose your shot). I also found Auto Area AF to be the worst of the 4, seconded by single point (at least in my experience). Single point is fine if the subject isn't moving or it moves in a predictable pattern that you can track (say an animal walking), but I found the Dynamic AF (9-point) to work best for me because as long as I can keep the subjectys' eye or head within the 9-pints (once I lock focus) it does a good job. I would also venture to say that AF Area Small or Wide would be better than just regular Auto Area AF (I see a lot of people think that Auto Area AF is better but in fact I think this makes the camera work harder because it's trying to track across the entire frame, whereas the smaller areas limit where the camera is looking. Obviously there is a caveat to this that you have to keep the subject within the focus area (wide or small) whereas with Auto Area AF you can be a little more loose about framing, but I found it's not as good especailly if you lose focus or there is an obstruction. So in a way I sort of disagreee on the Auto Area AF because you're giving too much control to the camera and it may find something else to focus on as I have seen even the Z6 II's AF can pick up the wrong subject. With theo ther modes the camera is less likely to pick up on something else (using Dynamic 9 point again you have to be very careful in how you're locking focus, yes it can lock focus on something else accidentally but if you can stick with the subject, then it shouldn't (at least this is my experience). The one thing I will say is that the Z6/Z7 series is OK for wildlife photography for subjects that have a predictable path and/or that are not moving too fast. It's when they're moving, especailly in unpredictable manners that is where the system starts to fail, and the cameras like the Z8 and Z9 are superior in this regard (or a DSLR). Since all of these models (except the Z50/Z5/Z6/Z7 lack the traditional 3D AF and cross-type AF points). Not sure if the Z8 and Z9 have the cross-type points, but they must have something similar to it along with the re-inclusion of the 3D AF we had back in the DSLRs, which is what sort of sets those two off from the rest and I feel provides a better experience. With some practice and patience the Z6/Z7 can be used but your hit rate may be lower than it would be with one of the newer bodies.
Thank you for your detailed response. I also don't recommend Auto-AF, and like I stated in the video I prefer using Dynamic AF, but have found that if I'm shooting from a low position at a bird on the water that the AF gets confused at times and even though the center point is on the bird, the AF will lock onto a closer point. I choose Single point when a bird is in foliage that is very close to it, that way I'm sure that I get a lock on the bird and not the surrounding area which has happened in the past.
Very informative. I have recently purchased Z6ii. One question i have, why in Z6ii unable to see the green box when the focus is locked. Will we still get good photos even when the box shows red. Sorry may be a silly question. In D7500 in LV i am always seeing a green box when focus is achieved. Not in the viewfinder as in Z6ii. So basically in Z6ii no green box when in LV and viewfinder and in D7500 in view finder. Am i missing something. Thanks.
Okay, so if you're using AF-C you will not see a green square, but if you use AF-S you will. So AF-S lets you only take one photo at a time, where as AF-C lets you take multiple photos at a time.So if you want to make sure that all the photos you take in AF-C are in focus you will have to go into the menu a1 and set focus instead of release, that way the camera will not take a photo unless the subject is in focus.
Thanks for asking this question, the green in-focus box is only visible when you are in AF-S Mode. Has the focus locks for 1 photo. but if you're in AF-C which is auto-focus Continuous, then it can't show the green box as the focus is continuously adjusted by the camera
Hello! I'm having a massive problem with Z6 II and I would be pleased if you can answer on that. I shooted with Nikon D500 for 2,5 years and it was amazing camera. I switched it to Z6 II because D500's shutter was too loud for some cases. Especially eagles etc. are afraid of loud shutter if you are shooting from a hide. Anyway: my biggest problem is that in Z6 II you can't switch on a different focusing mode by pressing AF-ON -button. I'm giving you an example: with D500 I tend to use GrP as my main setting and by pressing AF-ON I got single point focus mode. I had situations where I was shooting a bird in flight and it went inside branches/grass, so I had to press just one button and change my focus point. With Z6 II I have lost many photos, because I can't switch the focus point so fast. Fastest way is to press fn1 or fn2 and roll the wheel on camera. I would definitely need the same AF-ON -possibility in Z6 II, but I haven't figured out how to do it. Do you know is it even possible, and if not, how on earth have Nikon managed to remove that feature?
If the AF-ON -button is set to back-button focus then that is all it can do. To my knowledge the only way you can change the focus mode, like Single point to Dynamic AF is through the I Menu, which s the way I do it and only takes a few seconds.
Hello I have in the F2 button the setting to change AF modes , while pressing F2 with the front dial I can change to AFC or AFC , and back dial the Focus Modes, maybe this will help, and it is very fast. Also in my A7iV it is possible to disable some focusing modes (called focus limit) and this would make going through the menus faster if some of the options are removed, but didn’t try it on the Z6ii if it is possible.
@@gboyer78 yes i am using fn-buttons with same purpose, but the problem is that even that fn2 + rolling a wheel could be too slow with very fast situations. I would like to change focus point with af-on -button but it's impossible
Great Video, I have a Z6 and Z9 and even with the Z9 you have to be very selective with The AF selections. Nikon Build its focus system on the basis of the DSLR focus system. If you have a very good understanding of the Nikon DSLR focus system the same logic applies to the Z series with the new options of subject and eye detection. This even with the so called fail proof Sony system is not fail proof. It just adds complexity. The Z6ii is a great camera and chasing other brands just to think AF will give you better pictures, save the money, ask me I was there chasing other systems for better images of focus, back to Nikon and again realising that great images comes from creating opportunities and better skills and not leaving the work to the camers.
You still need to do all those things but you won't get the shots with a crap tracking system, you must not have chased Sony or Canon which have far superior tracking
When a bird is in a tree with one or two branches in front of it, my Z6 focuses on the branches. When there's trees in the background it locks on to the background . Very frustrating. Missing many great photo opportunities because of focus issues. Any suggestions for best mode birds in trees?
Unlike Nikon, Canon and Sony does not have to fumble with the auto focus modes and juggle which we should use. In Canon just choose bird eye auto focus and press the button. One button. done. Nikon where is the Z9 type of auto focus in my Z6ii ? Nikon executives still has the DSLR mirrored mentality. fail.
That maybe so, but everyone who buys the Nikon Z6Ii should know that it doesn't have Bird-Eye Autofocus. I bought the Z6II fully knowing that it didn't have that feature, but I still bought it as for me the D500 was no longer suitable for my photography needs where as the Z6II had 90% of what I wanted at a price point I could afford.
@@CharlesNPhotography Hello Charles, I just wanted to share that I really really enjoy using the Z6ii and the 200-500 ( i bought used for $800US) Me and my friend debate all the time when a new camera body comes out, with that said: the Z6ii is very well built and more fun to shoot with than my Sony or Canon. Sometimes it is a challenge to target focus from the camera but when i manually turn the focus ring quickly to test my skills and capture that image...there is an amazing satisfaction. BTW the images coming out of the Nikon is noticeably superior. I had to prove to myself and test them. Nikon Z6ii had much better colors straight out of the camera. That is not subjective; it is a fact to me. cheers.
Thanks for the video. I’ve been shooting my Z6ii for 2 years now and have always struggled with BIF. I’ve tried all the same things you outlined here in your video. I’ve come to the conclusion that the 200-500 lens with the FTZ is possibly the wrong combination. The lense focuses too slowly. I am about to try a Nikon workshop with native Z lenses to see how that goes. I am also looking at F mount lenses that are faster like a 300 2.8 or the like. They are getting affordable now used from KEH.
@@adammacsween3230 It's true regarding BIF but with larger birds it's not that difficult. With smaller it's a challenge but i have had great success'. My large birds track well and come out sharp. i.e. Pelicans 100 yds away. Mind you, I also use a Canon R3 and Sony A1 (now sold)... at the end of the day, I have great fun with my Z6ii but would much appreciate the Z9 engine or better.
Thank you, Charles. This was quite helpful. There are so many aspects to the science of getting shots in focus - your breakdown was spot on!
My pleasure and glad that this tutorial was of help to you 😉🙏
Luckily came across your channel. I do have the z6ii- recently purchased the nikkor 200-500-so glad you put this video together-very informative,
Thank you very much for your comments, the 200-500mm works great with the Z6II and I plan on doing a video soon on how I've set-up my Z6II for bird photography
Love the video, thx. I get the best results with DyNamic-area AF @5.5fps birds in flight against blue skies.
Great to hear that
Thanks for the Z6ii AF setups for birds. We won't have long to wait for the Z6iii if the rumors are true - that should be a beast for bird photography. Smaller and cheaper than the Z8/Z9.🙃
Fingers crossed!
Thank you Charles for you teaching skills
Soon I am going to do air show using Z6ii 200-500 mm
Love to hear from you some setting tips to get better results with your latest related videos
I appreciate your consideration and support
Thank you asking, here's a couple of videos to help you out.
How To Photograph planes at Airshows
ruclips.net/video/Xrlrm_z0DJg/видео.htmlsi=jsOSrHdtZ5mYjz8n
Airshow Photography with Nikon Z6II
ruclips.net/video/zsVX8_Uw9AA/видео.htmlsi=BF6VHDMo1gCuREnm
@@CharlesNPhotography your prompt answer is greatly appreciated, thank you
@samgabor100 You're welcome
Subscribed. I think this will be a video I watch more than once. I appreciated the focus on bird photography. Not many around at this time of year near Toronto, but that will change… .
Thanks for the sub! and there'll be many more videos on Bird Photography in 2023 as this is what I will be focusing most of my attention on in the coming year.
Great video thank you , really helpful . I have kept it and shared also. Good luck
So nice of you and thanks for sharing!🙏
Hi Charles
Thanks for all your great videoes
Today was my first day using Nikon Z6II and Nikon 200-500 mm.
Its for birds - stills and in the future when the are flying.
I tried with some Of your settings using it for U2 and U3.
Lets say U2: F5.6. Shutterspeed. 800. Auto ISO.
Now….nornally I would use S-AF mayby C-AF.
And wide S….
But I am really confused because you as a proof use 4 different settings at time.
Could you please help me with some “standard” settings for U2 stills and U3 for when they are flying 🙏🙏
Best regards
Thomas
Okay, so here's what I've programmed in U2!
Shutter speed: 1/1600,
I adjust this if it's a small bird like a swallow or Wren then 1/2000, the smaller the bird the faster you want to have your shutter speed to freeze the bird.
Aperture: F5.6
If there are a couple of birds close together, then I'll increase it to F8
ISO: Set to Auto-ISO always
Focus Mode: Single Point
If I'm beside a lake and there's like an Egret walking around I may use Wide-Area (Small)
Metering:
Center-Weighted
White Balance:
Natural Light Auto
Shutter Release Mode:
I use Continuous High Ext:, you can use Continuous High, but that only gives you 5.5fps.
Picture Control:
I used to use Portrait, but now use Pop 3. I find that using Pop 3 is better as I sometimes shoot Raw + JPG at the same time for my RUclips Videos, and Pop 3 gives me great colours.
Picture Control Settings do not affect your Raw file.
-----
Watch this video as well
Wildlife Photography 12bit or 14bit raw
ruclips.net/video/rgR72SYCR3s/видео.htmlfeature=shared
Hi Charles
Thanks for your answer and details for settings.
I must admit that I tried with my Nikon z50 and 200-500 mm.
Today the Sun were there.
I have made my settings for U1 and U2.
No Wind….I Saw some ducks and a small bird almost 4-5 m from me.
F5.6 tried also with 7.1. Shutterspeed 1250 and tried 2000. Auto ISO which were 400….but also 4000….when there were more trees But still okay with Sun.
No one was okay. Very blurry and not Sharp enough.
It was on Tripod.
I am really frustrated.
Best regards
Thomas
With Dynamic it's important to lock focus on the center point. The other points are in case the subject moves off the center point (but the center point has the most weight to it). Once you lock focus and maintain focus, the object can move around within the 9 points. Obivously it can be fooled by other things within the 9-pint grid, which is why it's important to lock focus (and hold focus if you need to while you recompose your shot). I also found Auto Area AF to be the worst of the 4, seconded by single point (at least in my experience). Single point is fine if the subject isn't moving or it moves in a predictable pattern that you can track (say an animal walking), but I found the Dynamic AF (9-point) to work best for me because as long as I can keep the subjectys' eye or head within the 9-pints (once I lock focus) it does a good job. I would also venture to say that AF Area Small or Wide would be better than just regular Auto Area AF (I see a lot of people think that Auto Area AF is better but in fact I think this makes the camera work harder because it's trying to track across the entire frame, whereas the smaller areas limit where the camera is looking. Obviously there is a caveat to this that you have to keep the subject within the focus area (wide or small) whereas with Auto Area AF you can be a little more loose about framing, but I found it's not as good especailly if you lose focus or there is an obstruction. So in a way I sort of disagreee on the Auto Area AF because you're giving too much control to the camera and it may find something else to focus on as I have seen even the Z6 II's AF can pick up the wrong subject. With theo ther modes the camera is less likely to pick up on something else (using Dynamic 9 point again you have to be very careful in how you're locking focus, yes it can lock focus on something else accidentally but if you can stick with the subject, then it shouldn't (at least this is my experience).
The one thing I will say is that the Z6/Z7 series is OK for wildlife photography for subjects that have a predictable path and/or that are not moving too fast. It's when they're moving, especailly in unpredictable manners that is where the system starts to fail, and the cameras like the Z8 and Z9 are superior in this regard (or a DSLR). Since all of these models (except the Z50/Z5/Z6/Z7 lack the traditional 3D AF and cross-type AF points). Not sure if the Z8 and Z9 have the cross-type points, but they must have something similar to it along with the re-inclusion of the 3D AF we had back in the DSLRs, which is what sort of sets those two off from the rest and I feel provides a better experience. With some practice and patience the Z6/Z7 can be used but your hit rate may be lower than it would be with one of the newer bodies.
Thank you for your detailed response. I also don't recommend Auto-AF, and like I stated in the video I prefer using Dynamic AF, but have found that if I'm shooting from a low position at a bird on the water that the AF gets confused at times and even though the center point is on the bird, the AF will lock onto a closer point. I choose Single point when a bird is in foliage that is very close to it, that way I'm sure that I get a lock on the bird and not the surrounding area which has happened in the past.
Very informative. I have recently purchased Z6ii. One question i have, why in Z6ii unable to see the green box when the focus is locked. Will we still get good photos even when the box shows red. Sorry may be a silly question. In D7500 in LV i am always seeing a green box when focus is achieved. Not in the viewfinder as in Z6ii.
So basically in Z6ii no green box when in LV and viewfinder and in D7500 in view finder.
Am i missing something. Thanks.
Okay, so if you're using AF-C you will not see a green square, but if you use AF-S you will. So AF-S lets you only take one photo at a time, where as AF-C lets you take multiple photos at a time.So if you want to make sure that all the photos you take in AF-C are in focus you will have to go into the menu a1 and set focus instead of release, that way the camera will not take a photo unless the subject is in focus.
@@CharlesNPhotography Thanks so much .
Thanks for asking this question, the green in-focus box is only visible when you are in AF-S Mode. Has the focus locks for 1 photo. but if you're in AF-C which is auto-focus Continuous, then it can't show the green box as the focus is continuously adjusted by the camera
do you like to use image stabilization when shooting birds with this camera?
I have image stabilisation (VR) set to Sport Mode on my Nikon 200-500mm f5.6 lens, so image stabilisation on the Z6II is greyed out
This was excellent thank you
You're very welcome and glad you enjoyed it 🙏
Best setting AF in static objects --> CAF single point AF, dynamic objects ---> CAF wide area ( small ) 🤔
Thanks for sharing
Hello! I'm having a massive problem with Z6 II and I would be pleased if you can answer on that.
I shooted with Nikon D500 for 2,5 years and it was amazing camera. I switched it to Z6 II because D500's shutter was too loud for some cases. Especially eagles etc. are afraid of loud shutter if you are shooting from a hide.
Anyway: my biggest problem is that in Z6 II you can't switch on a different focusing mode by pressing AF-ON -button. I'm giving you an example: with D500 I tend to use GrP as my main setting and by pressing AF-ON I got single point focus mode. I had situations where I was shooting a bird in flight and it went inside branches/grass, so I had to press just one button and change my focus point.
With Z6 II I have lost many photos, because I can't switch the focus point so fast. Fastest way is to press fn1 or fn2 and roll the wheel on camera. I would definitely need the same AF-ON -possibility in Z6 II, but I haven't figured out how to do it. Do you know is it even possible, and if not, how on earth have Nikon managed to remove that feature?
If the AF-ON -button is set to back-button focus then that is all it can do. To my knowledge the only way you can change the focus mode, like Single point to Dynamic AF is through the I Menu, which s the way I do it and only takes a few seconds.
Hello I have in the F2 button the setting to change AF modes , while pressing F2 with the front dial I can change to AFC or AFC , and back dial the Focus Modes, maybe this will help, and it is very fast. Also in my A7iV it is possible to disable some focusing modes (called focus limit) and this would make going through the menus faster if some of the options are removed, but didn’t try it on the Z6ii if it is possible.
@@gboyer78 yes i am using fn-buttons with same purpose, but the problem is that even that fn2 + rolling a wheel could be too slow with very fast situations. I would like to change focus point with af-on -button but it's impossible
Great Video, I have a Z6 and Z9 and even with the Z9 you have to be very selective with The AF selections. Nikon Build its focus system on the basis of the DSLR focus system. If you have a very good understanding of the Nikon DSLR focus system the same logic applies to the Z series with the new options of subject and eye detection. This even with the so called fail proof Sony system is not fail proof. It just adds complexity. The Z6ii is a great camera and chasing other brands just to think AF will give you better pictures, save the money, ask me I was there chasing other systems for better images of focus, back to Nikon and again realising that great images comes from creating opportunities and better skills and not leaving the work to the camers.
Spot on, and thank you so much for your reply. Many people these days expect the camera to do all the work for them.
You still need to do all those things but you won't get the shots with a crap tracking system, you must not have chased Sony or Canon which have far superior tracking
When a bird is in a tree with one or two branches in front of it, my Z6 focuses on the branches. When there's trees in the background it locks on to the background . Very frustrating. Missing many great photo opportunities because of focus issues. Any suggestions for best mode birds in trees?
In those instances, you should use single point focus, as I've found that dynamic af isn't reliable when a bird has branches very close to it
Yes go with Canon or Sony
Charles, Get yourself a Z9 and start experiencing outstanding autofocus performance.
Sure, just send me AU$9,000 and I'll use it next week 😆. Has I'm not able to afford one.
I really hope the Mark 3's address this issue.
Yes, I hope so as well, but I won't be upgrading.
This reminded me that I forgot to set my camera on continuous mode maybe that’s why I wasn’t getting the bird in flight photos 😂😂😂
Yes, you really need to be continuous AF for BIF
Unlike Nikon, Canon and Sony does not have to fumble with the auto focus modes and juggle which we should use. In Canon just choose bird eye auto focus and press the button. One button. done. Nikon where is the Z9 type of auto focus in my Z6ii ? Nikon executives still has the DSLR mirrored mentality. fail.
That maybe so, but everyone who buys the Nikon Z6Ii should know that it doesn't have Bird-Eye Autofocus. I bought the Z6II fully knowing that it didn't have that feature, but I still bought it as for me the D500 was no longer suitable for my photography needs where as the Z6II had 90% of what I wanted at a price point I could afford.
@@CharlesNPhotography Hello Charles, I just wanted to share that I really really enjoy using the Z6ii and the 200-500 ( i bought used for $800US) Me and my friend debate all the time when a new camera body comes out, with that said: the Z6ii is very well built and more fun to shoot with than my Sony or Canon. Sometimes it is a challenge to target focus from the camera but when i manually turn the focus ring quickly to test my skills and capture that image...there is an amazing satisfaction. BTW the images coming out of the Nikon is noticeably superior. I had to prove to myself and test them. Nikon Z6ii had much better colors straight out of the camera. That is not subjective; it is a fact to me. cheers.
Thanks for the video. I’ve been shooting my Z6ii for 2 years now and have always struggled with BIF. I’ve tried all the same things you outlined here in your video. I’ve come to the conclusion that the 200-500 lens with the FTZ is possibly the wrong combination. The lense focuses too slowly. I am about to try a Nikon workshop with native Z lenses to see how that goes. I am also looking at F mount lenses that are faster like a 300 2.8 or the like. They are getting affordable now used from KEH.
@@adammacsween3230 It's true regarding BIF but with larger birds it's not that difficult. With smaller it's a challenge but i have had great success'. My large birds track well and come out sharp. i.e. Pelicans 100 yds away. Mind you, I also use a Canon R3 and Sony A1 (now sold)... at the end of the day, I have great fun with my Z6ii but would much appreciate the Z9 engine or better.
@@j.kimmer1509 I am curious why you sell A1😂