One other thing I'd advocate for internal element/heat source - any/all burning will be limited to the element, not caked on to the base of the barrel. Worst case scenario, replace the element rather than trying to scrape the bottom of the barrel.
The easiest boiler for me was an under counter water heater. Good insulation, glass lined and all the fittings are already in place. I pulled the over-temp thermostat and pop-off valve, installed a quality ball valve in the lower fitting, plug in the upper, pulled the inlet side dip tube and changed the heating element over to a 3,000 watt unit. No fabrication required on the boiler. Wash goes in the top inlet fitting and distillate rises into the column attached to the opposing top fitting. It is slow to warm up (2hrs.) but once up to temperature I simply change from 220vac to 110vac on via a switchbox and it's at the perfect heat for my run. I do run a 1.5" reflux column on this still.
+Rick Lafford that's andang good point man. Heard a few people mention this. I need to look into it some more and perhaps give it a go, to show it off.
Another reason to use a thermowell on a boiler i have found. When creating a 100 liter wash or any size for that fact, i will fill the boiler, plug in a kegking temp controller and set it for 50c, take off 10 liters into the fermenter to dissolve my sugar, then add another 50 liters of cold water, then workout what temp i need the rest of the water to get to pitching temp. So rather than having to waiting until temps come down or to heat up , i am ready to go,,,, Hope that made sense
@@lukewarren9593 aluminum is a different animal the usual route is heliarc welding and to be honest that’s outside my knowledge. I do know you can repair aluminum with special rods and flux with a maps gas torch.
With the thermometer and the bottom drain it would make a great HLT. For boiling the wort, you would probably want something with an open top for better cleaning and access.
Where did you get the ports (maybe not the correct term) that the heating elements screw into? I have a welder and found plenty of options for heating elements but I am unclear on where to find the threaded coupler that is actually welded to the keg? Is there a specific search term I should be using to look for them? Thank you for the quality videos about an interesting topic.
Hey Jessy, I've been scrolling through all your videos and I'm in the middle of building my keg still, looking for information how you wired your heating elements into your boiler and power control
I went out and purchased a 15 gallon stockpot and lid brand new and after six months of use it got a heat stress crack in the bottom and that's when I decided to get a beer keg boiler, it's been about a year and no cracks yet.
Still it; Unless you pay $400. or $500. for a Italian or German made industrial stockpot and convert it to a distillation boiler a 15.5 gallon beer keg is the next best thing. I payed about $100. for a Japanese made stockpot on ebay and it didn't last too long.
Great vid. I just went through building my keg boiler and it is a fun process. I've noticed in your last few vids that you are using jump cuts to keep the conversation flow going. It's good but sometimes it's a bit off putting to have no pause where normal speech would have one. Personally I'd rather hear you ramble or make a mistake than have a weird audio jump. My two cents anyway.
I really really need to get around to messing around with some stainless to stainless soldering/brazing. Would be nice to be able to mod my own stuff! Thanks for the honest feedback my man. Honestly, I have been a little rushed etc lately. I have always been fairly heavy on the jump cuts, but I think my editing has gone downhill a little (1.5 to cut a vid togeather instead of 5+ etc). Nice to know that people actually notice it though. Back on the horse soon! Promise ;)
Hi Jesse, great knowledge for the first steps of a beginner. Short question. How long does it take for a 50lt keg boiler to run in pot still mode (spirit run) and how long in full reflux mode (vodka run)
Yeah, sorry mate, just saw this. I did not make this one so I can't say. I have seen instructions for people doing it both ways that yuck said. As he said......PITA
I actually have a couple of corny kegs. I was wondering if I could modify them with a adapter piece or something. So I can still use them as a keg too.
i have few also. problem is the gasket seal on the top. suppose you could weld a plate over the top then ferrule it. ask on home distiller. i bet one of the guys has done a mod on one. i just happened to have two sixth barrels. so, it worked put great
Hey Jesse, great videos, I bought a Guinness keg but the circumference of the port is a little to big for my two inch clamp. I'm just wondering what brand of keg did you use and do you find the ports of different kegs slightly bigger or smaller. Sláinte🇮🇪
I personally find working with gas alot easier. One big reason is I can do it where I don't have electricity is avalible. But personal preference. Do you have any info regarding converting the keg to the boiler?
You mentioned that you would consider 2 * 3 kw elements in the future which would be great to get the wash up to temperature though I feel 3kw would be too high for a pot still (whiskey etc.). are you planning on using a power controller?
You can find fairly low priced decent quality variacs also. I've had 2 SCR controllers fail as the heat sinks couldn't handle the load. Since then I toss the original heat sink and double the size - no problems. The variac doesn't have the same problem.
Thanks mate. I'm building one at present, do you think a single 2400w element would suffice? I don't mind a slower heat up. I'd rather not have to install two at present.
Here in the US all the solder you find in general circulation is lead free but certainly good to look at the labels. No so many of us hobby distillers have a MIG or TIG unit but TIG is the nuts for Al.
The LHBS offered me a 3 inch Fill Port and Cap... after seeing this video (thanks) I asked them about the 4 inch one. Apparently its a tight fit and the positioning the Fill Port needs to be done with clamps on etc to ensure there is enough room for the still clamps etc. So I can see why the edge of the keg has been remove..... not just access but also for fitting. Currently looking into the position of the 3 inch dial Thermometer and well. Any recommendations?
pot still 2" 500 mm column, 90 then 45 down to condenser. will make modular so can add additional height/packing and pos deflag along the lines of CM still
Man that was real impolite of your girlfriend to interrupt the video like that :D. But great video man. Do you have any suggestion on anything we could do for the real bare minimum start no welding needed.
I have a 1/4 keg. I would like to try my hand at distilling. My question regards the minimum amount of wash that be processed in a 1/4 keg, practically speaking. Can I get away with distilling a 1 gallon inventory in a 7.5 gallon 1/4 keg? Or, is the 1/4 keg overkill for this small quantity?
+NappingPup how's it :) and sorry for the slow response man. Biggest issue is he heating. If you are going to use electric you don't want to expose the elements when running. Ie make sure they are "under water". But having the flexibility to go larger is pretty nice man. Also it effectively allows you more precise cuts.
@@StillIt by the way Machinist ran stills for more than 35 year. I don't know how deep got into this craft they can tell you right now if you want to make the best Friday ever learn how to Malt your own grain. Find some old oak barrels never been used for anything nasty àss Jim Beam or Jack Daniels crap and you can make some really good hootch
Heh, Yeah I hear you man. Best bet is to have a chat with all the local craft brewers. Let em know your on the look out. You may just get lucky with a damaged one.
Hi jesse i am planning my boiler build. U have 2 X 2000w elements. How do you plug urs in ie: do u use 2 seperate circuits of 10A or higher. If you use the same circuit for both elements what is the amp rating for that circuit? Cheers
Still It; I was thinking finding a machine shop with a really large diameter lathe and having my keg turned to have the top skirt, the part with the two handles on top of the keg cut off. Just run a cutting tool just above the weld. I saw how kegs are manufactured. They are turned in a automatic welding machine. Now it's just a matter of finding a shop that can do it. Unless you can tell me of a better way to do it.
Still It; I plan on controlling a 5500 watt element with a SCR to bring it up to temp and then using a PID and a 3000 watt element to keep it hot. PS I sure would like to visit NZ I'm in Ohio, USA.
+Thomas edwin nice man, just checking you got the memo about controlling temp though right? PID in manual? It's a awesome place to visit! I guess I should really start showing the place off a bit more seeing as many viewers are from over seas.
Still IT; Yes I got about heating control, I use to live in the country when I was a boy, we had chickens, pigs, horses. Yes, you should post farm videos.
I wouldn't recommend this size of boiler to a beginner. They will want to start with a 3 to 5 gallon stainless steel pot that fits on their stove and attach the head to the lid. There is a lot to be learned in the kitchen on that stove top or in a smaller apartment. Even just testing out recipes if you experiment with 50 gallons at a time, decide your method scorched the lot, you are dumping 50 gallons of 'beer' instead of experimenting with 5 gallons that you dump (still sad). Your fermenter needs to be the same size or larger than your kettle. Then to store the good stuff and the less good stuff that can go back in the next boil, pretty soon the car won't fit in the garage. Much of the beginning beer brewing trade is focused around 5 gallon batches for a lot of good reasons. The keg boiler is really an intermediate step.
Sorry for the slow reply! I think you have a good point. Although this boiler can run all the way down to a 4 gallon run. So if you want to run smaller volumes thats cool. The advantage is that it instantly negates all the problems that come along with a pot, and trying to seal it. Point taken though, it is definitely the deluxe version of a "beginner boiler". And in no means a "must have".
@@VentureWelding not sure if you got an answer or not. But 316L would be your filler metal. Remember to purge the keg with argon before doing your weld to combat porosity on the root.
I seen a number of keg boilers with the 4 inch tri-clamp fitted / welded into the centre of the keg on the vertical. I'm just wondering if there is any advantage to either approach?
+Rod Drysdale yup yup. Up side is you can connect directly to a 4". The up side to having it off to the side is that you can get into the boiler without taking column off the top.
Sorry I wasn't clear, the 4 inch cleaning tr-clamp is welded into the vertical side in the centre of the keg rather than on top. When I think about it you can fill the keg the way yours is setup from the top... makes more sense.
easier to get your arm in to clean or turn nuts if youre using weldless elements. You could also get a clear endcap to see whats going on... I was reading on the forums and boiling the slightly acidic wash in the keg is a perfect way to clean it anyway. In my opinion its more work, id be having the elements fitted to tri clamps to make it easier to take out and clean (in case of scorching). Otherwise CIP with sodium per-carbonate cleaner should be more then enough to clean the keg.
You don't need more then 2kw when you are up and running. Not for this design. But the extra power makes the warm up faster. Right now I wait for about 75 min for it to get up to temp.
No.1Czarnian smaller isn’t necessarily a better way to start. It’s tempting I know! But here’s why I advise to go bigger out of the gate:cuts. The smaller your boiler the tighter your cuts are gonna be. Tiny cuts are hard enough for a seasoned distiller to do well, let alone a beginner. Too many people try to start small and make bad product and quit. Give yourself a chance! 10-15 gallons is about right. Then you have a chance to try and learn and enjoy
awesome! I worked on a farm in Kentucky. he had a non working dairy system. ferruled glass pipe.
Thank you for these videos Jesse! Keep up the great work.
George at Barley and Hops has a very good instructional video on converting a keg to a boiler. Just thought I'd share that for your viewers, Jesse
Nothing like a good Keggle. One of the best upgrades I did when I first started brewing. Cheers!
+Beer By The Numbers yeah man. Worth its weight in gold!
One other thing I'd advocate for internal element/heat source - any/all burning will be limited to the element, not caked on to the base of the barrel. Worst case scenario, replace the element rather than trying to scrape the bottom of the barrel.
Finally getting around to stepping up to a keg still!
made a 5gal pressure cooker still a few years back worked great.
+anvil hammer awesome man. Still using it?
The easiest boiler for me was an under counter water heater. Good insulation, glass lined and all the fittings are already in place. I pulled the over-temp thermostat and pop-off valve, installed a quality ball valve in the lower fitting, plug in the upper, pulled the inlet side dip tube and changed the heating element over to a 3,000 watt unit. No fabrication required on the boiler. Wash goes in the top inlet fitting and distillate rises into the column attached to the opposing top fitting. It is slow to warm up (2hrs.) but once up to temperature I simply change from 220vac to 110vac on via a switchbox and it's at the perfect heat for my run. I do run a 1.5" reflux column on this still.
+Rick Lafford that's andang good point man. Heard a few people mention this. I need to look into it some more and perhaps give it a go, to show it off.
Another reason to use a thermowell on a boiler i have found. When creating a 100 liter wash or any size for that fact, i will fill the boiler, plug in a kegking temp controller and set it for 50c, take off 10 liters into the fermenter to dissolve my sugar, then add another 50 liters of cold water, then workout what temp i need the rest of the water to get to pitching temp. So rather than having to waiting until temps come down or to heat up , i am ready to go,,,, Hope that made sense
That actually makes a whole lot of sense. Basically a giant souse vide!
You can silver solder stainless with a 67% rod with flux around it with great effect.
Does that work for an aluminum keg? I don't know much about welding or brazing, but I know that keg has got to be made out of aluminum.
@@lukewarren9593 aluminum is a different animal the usual route is heliarc welding and to be honest that’s outside my knowledge. I do know you can repair aluminum with special rods and flux with a maps gas torch.
That is so nice, I brew beer and with that it can be used to cook the wort in and ferment and use in the kegerator but ill need 2 of them thank you.
With the thermometer and the bottom drain it would make a great HLT. For boiling the wort, you would probably want something with an open top for better cleaning and access.
@@JeffTheHokie Who cares now its about food to eat at this time.
Temperature gives a very good indication of the % alcohol in the boiler.
Where did you get the ports (maybe not the correct term) that the heating elements screw into? I have a welder and found plenty of options for heating elements but I am unclear on where to find the threaded coupler that is actually welded to the keg? Is there a specific search term I should be using to look for them? Thank you for the quality videos about an interesting topic.
Hey Jessy, I've been scrolling through all your videos and I'm in the middle of building my keg still, looking for information how you wired your heating elements into your boiler and power control
Great video Jesse! I hope that someday soon I have to get a TIG welder:-)>
+Bearded & Bored yeeeeesssssss!!!!!
If you have a welder, than you have a tig welder. Just make your work positive and your lead negative.
I went out and purchased a 15 gallon stockpot and lid brand new and after six months of use it got a heat stress crack in the bottom and that's when I decided to get a beer keg boiler, it's been about a year and no cracks yet.
+Thomas edwin yeah the more I read the more I realize it's the way to go ;)
Still it; Unless you pay $400. or $500. for a Italian or German made industrial stockpot and convert it to a distillation boiler a 15.5 gallon beer keg is the next best thing. I payed about $100. for a Japanese made stockpot on ebay and it didn't last too long.
Great vid. I just went through building my keg boiler and it is a fun process.
I've noticed in your last few vids that you are using jump cuts to keep the conversation flow going. It's good but sometimes it's a bit off putting to have no pause where normal speech would have one. Personally I'd rather hear you ramble or make a mistake than have a weird audio jump. My two cents anyway.
I really really need to get around to messing around with some stainless to stainless soldering/brazing. Would be nice to be able to mod my own stuff!
Thanks for the honest feedback my man. Honestly, I have been a little rushed etc lately. I have always been fairly heavy on the jump cuts, but I think my editing has gone downhill a little (1.5 to cut a vid togeather instead of 5+ etc). Nice to know that people actually notice it though. Back on the horse soon! Promise ;)
If you find a keg make sure its not a S type i got one and its a bitch to get the vaule off as the compresson spring is not on top
Thank you Jesse!
Nice.
Hi Jesse, great knowledge for the first steps of a beginner. Short question. How long does it take for a 50lt keg boiler to run in pot still mode (spirit run) and how long in full reflux mode (vodka run)
How did you cut the hole for the 4 inch ferrule? Great video!
Yeah, sorry mate, just saw this. I did not make this one so I can't say. I have seen instructions for people doing it both ways that yuck said. As he said......PITA
So does this mean you’ll add 10-15 litres of water to your low wines,just before a stripping run in order to avoid burning out an element?
Great vid however you could have shown more footage/ pics of the overall boiler and the legs......
Need piston for thermometer, and install lever liquid for not burning your ten's. ThY
nice description. ive had my keg for a while and still love it. now we need to get you a couple of sixth barrels and you can run thumpers.☺
hahah true that!
I actually have a couple of corny kegs. I was wondering if I could modify them with a adapter piece or something. So I can still use them as a keg too.
i have few also. problem is the gasket seal on the top. suppose you could weld a plate over the top then ferrule it. ask on home distiller. i bet one of the guys has done a mod on one. i just happened to have two sixth barrels. so, it worked put great
Do you run two thumpers in line? Also, what do you charge them with?
i do when i do my rum. other wise i just use one. i usually charge it some of my backset and my highs and lows.
Hello....i wil make something like this and my question to you is :does the mash burn on any time if i use electric heater?
I did miss the reflux part of the built.
Hey Jesse, great videos, I bought a Guinness keg but the circumference of the port is a little to big for my two inch clamp. I'm just wondering what brand of keg did you use and do you find the ports of different kegs slightly bigger or smaller. Sláinte🇮🇪
Hi Jesse, do you still think this is a good starter still, I’ve been considering a 70l Digiboil
Hey Jessy, does stainless or aluminium keg matter? Maybe you could do a video on this☘🇮🇪
Kegs are normally SSteel only
I personally find working with gas alot easier. One big reason is I can do it where I don't have electricity is avalible. But personal preference. Do you have any info regarding converting the keg to the boiler?
George at Barley and Hops has a very good video on converting a keg to a boiler. He and Jesse and I are good friends.
You mentioned that you would consider 2 * 3 kw elements in the future which would be great to get the wash up to temperature though I feel 3kw would be too high for a pot still (whiskey etc.). are you planning on using a power controller?
+Rod Drysdale yup my thoughts exactly! Right now a scr. May change that later on.
You can find fairly low priced decent quality variacs also. I've had 2 SCR controllers fail as the heat sinks couldn't handle the load. Since then I toss the original heat sink and double the size - no problems. The variac doesn't have the same problem.
Thanks mate. I'm building one at present, do you think a single 2400w element would suffice? I don't mind a slower heat up. I'd rather not have to install two at present.
If anyone soliders GOD ALMIGHTY do not DO NOT use lead solider or any lead base stuff, TIN is ok silver is ok TIG or Mig is better
+skeets well said sir!!
Here in the US all the solder you find in general circulation is lead free but certainly good to look at the labels. No so many of us hobby distillers have a MIG or TIG unit but TIG is the nuts for Al.
The LHBS offered me a 3 inch Fill Port and Cap... after seeing this video (thanks) I asked them about the 4 inch one.
Apparently its a tight fit and the positioning the Fill Port needs to be done with clamps on etc to ensure there is enough room for the still clamps etc. So I can see why the edge of the keg has been remove..... not just access but also for fitting. Currently looking into the position of the 3 inch dial Thermometer and well. Any recommendations?
Jesse Your Goat Wants some Loving 😎👍💯🇺🇲🍺
What's the reason for the horizontal 90 degree bend in the drain? Some benefit for the drain to exit off-center?
What's it like trying to clean inside that thing?
If anybody is looking for one of these boilers I just built one and listed it on eBay in the US.
nice and simple, think i will copy Andrews design. have the keg and most of the copper just need to work out a condenser, shotgun or liebig arm.
Awesome man! What still design are you going with?
pot still 2" 500 mm column, 90 then 45 down to condenser. will make modular so can add additional height/packing and pos deflag along the lines of CM still
Epic! That sounds like a solid still man. Hope you are up and running soon!
Do a new equipment video
Man that was real impolite of your girlfriend to interrupt the video like that :D.
But great video man. Do you have any suggestion on anything we could do for the real bare minimum start no welding needed.
I have a 1/4 keg. I would like to try my hand at distilling. My question regards the minimum amount of wash that be processed in a 1/4 keg, practically speaking. Can I get away with distilling a 1 gallon inventory in a 7.5 gallon 1/4 keg? Or, is the 1/4 keg overkill for this small quantity?
+NappingPup how's it :) and sorry for the slow response man.
Biggest issue is he heating. If you are going to use electric you don't want to expose the elements when running. Ie make sure they are "under water".
But having the flexibility to go larger is pretty nice man. Also it effectively allows you more precise cuts.
Hey just wondering what brand keg you boiler is as I'm building one at the moment and having trouble with it leaking
good video
Cheers mate :)
You do not ever braze anyting on a still unless you're not planning on drinking it brass contains lead
Wait what about breast and led???
@@StillIt fixed..... Voice recognition is shit
@@StillIt by the way Machinist ran stills for more than 35 year. I don't know how deep got into this craft they can tell you right now if you want to make the best Friday ever learn how to Malt your own grain. Find some old oak barrels never been used for anything nasty àss Jim Beam or Jack Daniels crap and you can make some really good hootch
Haha yeah mate voice recognition will get you!
Not sure what braze is there. But there is 0 led in it for us here.
Jesse who would one contact for a build this I'm in nz
I cant find a used keg. All of my beer kegs cost me a $30 deposit and are registered so they can keep up with them.
Heh, Yeah I hear you man. Best bet is to have a chat with all the local craft brewers. Let em know your on the look out. You may just get lucky with a damaged one.
Hi jesse i am planning my boiler build. U have 2 X 2000w elements. How do you plug urs in ie: do u use 2 seperate circuits of 10A or higher. If you use the same circuit for both elements what is the amp rating for that circuit?
Cheers
Yeah I use two separate circuts for now.
Thank you mate i really didnt expect such a quick reply enjoy your new family members.
Haha no prob ;)
Do you know if I can MIG weld on a stainless beer keg with stainless wire and still be ok to distill? I do not have a TIG welder.
As long as the shielding gas is alright, I think you'll be ok. If you can get inside you can clean the weld up
Does it have a temperature probe in the keg for running at a constant temperature and also what temperature do you run the still at
Your not going to be able to run a still based on the temp in the pot/keg. Its going to boil at the temp its going to boil at.
How was the top skirt cut off that keg without rupturing the keg and not leaving a nasty jagged cut off edge?
+Thomas edwin how's it man. Andrew from inglishill distillery sorted me out with this bad boy. So I honestly am not sure!
Still It; I was thinking finding a machine shop with a really large diameter lathe and having my keg turned to have the top skirt, the part with the two handles on top of the keg cut off. Just run a cutting tool just above the weld. I saw how kegs are manufactured. They are turned in a automatic welding machine. Now it's just a matter of finding a shop that can do it. Unless you can tell me of a better way to do it.
+Thomas edwin sounds rather intricate my man. Sure it would work though. Yeah I dunno aye.....will have a looksy after I'm done with the this vid.
Any place I can see where the legs are attached mate?
+Naughty Goat Farm you found what you were looking for no?
Still It sure did mate. Awesome.
What elements are you using in your setup??
2x 2kw water heater elements 😀
What kind of heat controller do you use for your elements?
+Thomas edwin just a basic SCR for now man.
Still It; I plan on controlling a 5500 watt element with a SCR to bring it up to temp and then using a PID and a 3000 watt element to keep it hot. PS I sure would like to visit NZ I'm in Ohio, USA.
+Thomas edwin nice man, just checking you got the memo about controlling temp though right? PID in manual?
It's a awesome place to visit! I guess I should really start showing the place off a bit more seeing as many viewers are from over seas.
Still IT; Yes I got about heating control, I use to live in the country when I was a boy, we had chickens, pigs, horses. Yes, you should post farm videos.
+Thomas edwin haha I don't have a farm my man. Just a few chooks now (lambs are gone).
Was thinking of some other cool NZ stuff though :)
I wouldn't recommend this size of boiler to a beginner. They will want to start with a 3 to 5 gallon stainless steel pot that fits on their stove and attach the head to the lid. There is a lot to be learned in the kitchen on that stove top or in a smaller apartment. Even just testing out recipes if you experiment with 50 gallons at a time, decide your method scorched the lot, you are dumping 50 gallons of 'beer' instead of experimenting with 5 gallons that you dump (still sad). Your fermenter needs to be the same size or larger than your kettle. Then to store the good stuff and the less good stuff that can go back in the next boil, pretty soon the car won't fit in the garage. Much of the beginning beer brewing trade is focused around 5 gallon batches for a lot of good reasons. The keg boiler is really an intermediate step.
Sorry for the slow reply!
I think you have a good point. Although this boiler can run all the way down to a 4 gallon run. So if you want to run smaller volumes thats cool.
The advantage is that it instantly negates all the problems that come along with a pot, and trying to seal it.
Point taken though, it is definitely the deluxe version of a "beginner boiler". And in no means a "must have".
That is 15 .5 gallon not 55 gallon.
With those two 2 KW elements how long does it take for a full keg to come to a boil?
+Thomas edwin normally a little over 1hr.
Still It; How much power do you think I need to get a boil going in 1/2 an hour or 20 minutes? Maybe 5500 to 6000 watts?
DID NOT UNDERSTAND THE PLACE YOU GOT YOUR KEG FROM THANKS
why two 3 kilowatt elements and not one big one?
faster to respond to controls
Oh shit ya gotta keep them sheep away from the pigs they will learn to squeal! HAHAHA.
Hey man I am welder wanting to build a keg still, is the 30 l keg OK?
Yes that would work.
Since you're a welder, lemme ask you, which wire would you tig weld this with? What chemical symbol?
@@VentureWelding not sure if you got an answer or not. But 316L would be your filler metal. Remember to purge the keg with argon before doing your weld to combat porosity on the root.
@@jaredchristensen4970 you're a Greek God sir. Thank you
Of course the kiwi has sheep lol
Warowl?
+Sup3rlum ??
some one is calling you @ 5: 30
Where can i pick up. A 4 in Farrel for the top of my keg
How's it mate. What country do you live in?
If your not worried about time I would hit up Ali Express.
I don't get it, my beer keg boiler looks like the same exact beer keg and it holds 58 liters, you say yours holds only 50?
Thomas, silly question, does it say 50L stamped on your keg ?
I seen a number of keg boilers with the 4 inch tri-clamp fitted / welded into the centre of the keg on the vertical. I'm just wondering if there is any advantage to either approach?
+Rod Drysdale yup yup.
Up side is you can connect directly to a 4".
The up side to having it off to the side is that you can get into the boiler without taking column off the top.
Sorry I wasn't clear, the 4 inch cleaning tr-clamp is welded into the vertical side in the centre of the keg rather than on top. When I think about it you can fill the keg the way yours is setup from the top... makes more sense.
+Rod Drysdale ah sorry I thought center and top.
I guess that makes it a lot easier to actually scrub.
easier to get your arm in to clean or turn nuts if youre using weldless elements. You could also get a clear endcap to see whats going on... I was reading on the forums and boiling the slightly acidic wash in the keg is a perfect way to clean it anyway. In my opinion its more work, id be having the elements fitted to tri clamps to make it easier to take out and clean (in case of scorching). Otherwise CIP with sodium per-carbonate cleaner should be more then enough to clean the keg.
Can I put in my 2 cents???
Thats what the comments are for dude! Fire away ;)
the main reason to why old beer kegs are alL go in NZ is cause copper is scarce they have stole it all to buy a ticket to AUSTRALIA
insert NZ sheep joke here :D
Who has one for sale?
Gumtree is your friends :)
How do I get in touch with them?
I just built one and listed it on eBay in the U.S. if anyone is “still” interested.
if you wouldn't talk so much and you wouldn't make faces, I would appreciate your clips. Like this I can't resist till the end.
Bye bye 👍👍👋👋👋👋👍👍
Screw that guy that's the best part of the videos
Ты слышиш тебя мама зовёт
You said that you wont need more than 2kw but you have 4kw and plans to go to 6kw. Wtf lol
You don't need more then 2kw when you are up and running. Not for this design.
But the extra power makes the warm up faster. Right now I wait for about 75 min for it to get up to temp.
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I keep thinking people are insulting me . . . . .
Then I remember I really did have sheep haha 😂
So did you jump right in with stuff this large or did you start on something smaller and work your way up to higher volumes?
+No.1Czarnian that's my first boiler haha.
No.1Czarnian smaller isn’t necessarily a better way to start. It’s tempting I know! But here’s why I advise to go bigger out of the gate:cuts. The smaller your boiler the tighter your cuts are gonna be. Tiny cuts are hard enough for a seasoned distiller to do well, let alone a beginner. Too many people try to start small and make bad product and quit. Give yourself a chance! 10-15 gallons is about right. Then you have a chance to try and learn and enjoy