I took several REW measurements with my back two subs in my theater room and they both performed better by simply facing them towards the back wall vs facing inwards.
I certainly felt the same way! 😂 I’m sitting here questioning everything that I have experienced. I found that if I turn the speaker facing the wall with thin foam absorption panel, it not only increases the output, but as stated, decreases the higher frequency distortion from chuffing and mechanical driver noise.
Hi Matt - I know you have a lot of tutorials coming, but do you think you can consider adding a tutorial about best tuning tips for sealed subs, ported mains, large open concept home? My equipment suffers from lack of dedicated listening space (802d4, dual SB16’s, etc), so I’d like to configure best I can in the family room… thanks!
Facing a wall is ok if you consider there are subs designed with woofers facing the ground and definitely not having 6 inches of clearance (could be true for highest spl subs). Very viable option with subs over 2 feets deep turning them 90 degrees.
I'm buying my first house on Monday (merry Christmas to me >)) and my living room is open to the dining with a pass-through to the kitchen. My bedrooms are too small to use as a home theater as I have now. The main room, not including the kitchen is roughly 11x17 with a patio door on the short side. I plan on putting a smallish area rug in front of my sofa, but the rest of the floor is hardwood. Will I need bigger main speakers to fill the room with sound? Currently have RP600M2s. Are my 2 12" ported subs going to be sufficient (SPL-120, RP-1200SW)?
Wouldn't the SBIR cancellation be the main thing to worry about, and occur at the quarter wave distance from the wall in question? Meaning moving the driver closer to the wall pushes SBIR cancellation higher, and further out above the frequency band of the sub? A speaker one meter from the boundary would have the lowest frequency dip at 85Hz or so, and higher when closer? Other than that, for practical reasons, I'd say the driver will nearly always be the most vulnerable part of a sub, and better protected facing a wall? It just seems a very good idea to me.
Indeed. Either, ... 𝘣𝘰𝘶𝘯𝘥𝘢𝘳𝘺 𝘭𝘰𝘢𝘥, or utilize 𝘴𝘦𝘭𝘦𝘤𝘵𝘪𝘷𝘦 𝘮𝘰𝘥𝘦 𝘤𝘢𝘯𝘤𝘦𝘭𝘢𝘵𝘪𝘰𝘯, ... which is absolutely valid, yet quite challenging due to summation/superposition variables. (or pursue a full SBA, baffle wall, w/fully damped rear boundary)
Placebo effect already tells me anyone who moves their subwoofer after watching this video will immediately think they hear an improvement. If you have measurement equipment and free time you don't need to watch these videos because you can identify your own problems/solutions without needing a guru to tell you what works in theory. So my point is stop watching these videos and buy a measurement microphone or go by ear and quit chasing the dragon.
I took several REW measurements with my back two subs in my theater room and they both performed better by simply facing them towards the back wall vs facing inwards.
Sealed subs?
Prettier to look at the sub driver vs looking at the amp plate :)
I was scared to click this video since I face my subwoofers toward the wall. Now I'm glad I clicked it :D
I certainly felt the same way! 😂 I’m sitting here questioning everything that I have experienced. I found that if I turn the speaker facing the wall with thin foam absorption panel, it not only increases the output, but as stated, decreases the higher frequency distortion from chuffing and mechanical driver noise.
Hi Matt - I know you have a lot of tutorials coming, but do you think you can consider adding a tutorial about best tuning tips for sealed subs, ported mains, large open concept home? My equipment suffers from lack of dedicated listening space (802d4, dual SB16’s, etc), so I’d like to configure best I can in the family room… thanks!
But having the port wind hit my face feels like you’re watching in 4D! Haha
Facing a wall is ok if you consider there are subs designed with woofers facing the ground and definitely not having 6 inches of clearance (could be true for highest spl subs). Very viable option with subs over 2 feets deep turning them 90 degrees.
I'm buying my first house on Monday (merry Christmas to me >)) and my living room is open to the dining with a pass-through to the kitchen. My bedrooms are too small to use as a home theater as I have now. The main room, not including the kitchen is roughly 11x17 with a patio door on the short side. I plan on putting a smallish area rug in front of my sofa, but the rest of the floor is hardwood. Will I need bigger main speakers to fill the room with sound? Currently have RP600M2s. Are my 2 12" ported subs going to be sufficient (SPL-120, RP-1200SW)?
lol thought u were Caleb Denison when the video started. Thought u had him in the studio for a video. Thats actually a good idea.
Wouldn't the SBIR cancellation be the main thing to worry about, and occur at the quarter wave distance from the wall in question? Meaning moving the driver closer to the wall pushes SBIR cancellation higher, and further out above the frequency band of the sub? A speaker one meter from the boundary would have the lowest frequency dip at 85Hz or so, and higher when closer? Other than that, for practical reasons, I'd say the driver will nearly always be the most vulnerable part of a sub, and better protected facing a wall? It just seems a very good idea to me.
Indeed.
Either, ... 𝘣𝘰𝘶𝘯𝘥𝘢𝘳𝘺 𝘭𝘰𝘢𝘥, or utilize 𝘴𝘦𝘭𝘦𝘤𝘵𝘪𝘷𝘦 𝘮𝘰𝘥𝘦 𝘤𝘢𝘯𝘤𝘦𝘭𝘢𝘵𝘪𝘰𝘯, ... which is absolutely valid, yet quite challenging due to summation/superposition variables.
(or pursue a full SBA, baffle wall, w/fully damped rear boundary)
Placebo effect already tells me anyone who moves their subwoofer after watching this video will immediately think they hear an improvement. If you have measurement equipment and free time you don't need to watch these videos because you can identify your own problems/solutions without needing a guru to tell you what works in theory. So my point is stop watching these videos and buy a measurement microphone or go by ear and quit chasing the dragon.