This guy went backwards down a 30ft wave
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 30 окт 2023
- There is so much craziness happening on this huge Mavericks wave including a surfer going over the falls.
Thanks for watching. I'm Brad Jacobson and I'll sea ya on the sand. 
Спорт
Didn’t ditch in front of the guy dropping in. Much respect!!
Took one for the team
Yes. Please make more videos like this. No one ever reacts to the bystander surfers who pray for their lives to barely make it over those heavy waves only to get obliterated by the next set breaking further out. Ugh! Flashbacks.
Its moments like those where you reevaluate your life choices....
It's unbelievable that these guys make it out alive and then go back again for more.
props to homie for not bailing the board. that alone makes him a legend in my eyes, eating that drop like a beast, icing on top.
Just paddling out in the big surf takes total commitment. Well said.
We've all been there, just not on a monster like that. But a six-foot wave can wreak some havoc on us plebs.
Thoughts and prayers.... for all that's worth.
That's when you are SO happy it's not you..... 😂. Seriously the balls they have combined with an ability to take crap from mother nature... True warriors !
Mad respect for that guy. Pls make more videos like this one.
Thanks for posting. I've never surfed Mavericks, but have put my board on the altar many times at Puerto. This is a perfect example of a little knowledge being a dangerous thing. Most of the guys I know, or talked too, will say the same thing. There are a lot of guys going out that have no business being there. Not to say these fellows don't belong, I don't know them. But the gear that's available, if you have the $$, has allowed too many kooks to jeapoardize other surfer's equipment & health.
I learned to surf in the 70's, before how-to videos/surf schools. It was literally trial by fire. You had to pay your dues & even then you may not reach a level that allowed you to surf big waves. No jet skis, inflateable vests, padding, rescue teams around. If you got in trouble, you had to be able to get yourself out of it, alone. This required us to know our own limitations.
I'm not a big fan of tow-in surfing, but understand it lets you ride waves that aren't makeable. The surfers are able to ride these big waves differently since they have more speed. I appreciate the need for safety, mad respect to the Hui, and hats off to all those chargers out there. I would just ask, if you think your surfing is strong enough to handle Mavericks, Cortes Bank, or Puerto Escondido go on a smaller, paddle out day first. Watching videos is not the same thing as actual experience. There is neither a pause button, nor a rewind on an actual wave.
Thanks again for posting this. Nothing like becoming 'one with the lip' and going over the falls into the washing machine on spin cycle, where you get full rag doll treatment. If you're lucky, you might even get a proper two wave hold down so you can investigate the bottom.
Likewise. Surfed Puerto in the 80’s several times and paid the mandatory dues but never went over the falls on a 30’ plus wave. Most of those guys know each other so ditching a board in front of someone dropping shown the face would probably have its own consequences. Glad to see a post from someone from back in the days before leashes and webcams. Started in ‘66 and still at it.
Thanks brother. Back in the day, the surfing community was much smaller & self-regulating. Localism could be a very serious matter at some breaks, depending on how you handled yourself. Only one time was I involved in a situation that almost came to blows & it's a hysterical but true story.
I lived at Sunset Cliffs & a friend talked me into going up to Del Mar for a session. My crew of 6 made the trek & we walked up & down the beach before paddling out to a nice little left. Occasional tubes (4-6 ft) & a clean long break with an inside section if you built up enough speed. I wondered why we spent so much time walking up & down the beach. Turns out my friend Marty liked to surf up there to pick up somewhat richer women.
Anyway, we were having a fun session. Had the wave almost to ourselves. I was deep in the pit. It was a very late takeoff, but I angled in and started my ride in the barrel. Just as I was about to come out, I see this longboard dropping in on me. He's coming straight down the face & has no hope of making the wave. I yelled "Back off, coming down." but it was too late. WHAMMO !! He knocked me off my board, leashes got tangled & he got pitched towards shore. I was young and pretty angry.
That's not normal for me, so the crew paddled over as I explained to them. They surround the guy & not once did he apologize. One of his friends paddled over, & offered a 1/2 hearted "We don't want any trouble. We're usually alone out here...blah blah blah."
Turns out the kook was named Eddie Vedder & his friend was Jeff Ament. Pearl Jam just hit it big with their album & video "Jeremy." They were in San Diego to film videos for their next album. I knew of them but wasn't a huge fan. Besides I couldn't see Eddie's face, I was staring at his 9.5 ft beginner board dropping in on me. No punches were thrown, but we gave them all a lesson in etiquette. True story, no BS. So, I can say with conviction, "Eddie Vedder is a kook & a dick both." HAHAHA
Glad to hear you are still charging brother. When you had to paddle out on those huge winter days, that eliminated the pretenders from contenders. But with a jetski giving you a ride into the lineup, you catch the wave already standing with plenty of speed, and enough safety gear/people to pick you up after a wipeout. There are some people who can afford to be a 'big wave rider,' without the necessary skills. And money can't buy that. I certainly wasn't directing my comments to you, brother. Keep charging & catch one for this landlocked old man !! @@wavemaker54
Those were my old stomping grounds from '76 to '81. Lived in PB so I regularly surfed from the Cliffs up to Pendleton. Then moved to Seattle which I expected to suck. Found great waves, uncrowded and heaps of fun, whit spectacular views along the Strait of Juan de Fuca especially the Elwha river and the Dump out on the Makah Indian reservation. I'm not sure if surfing is still permitted there because of some clowns ruining places and trashing reservation property. I'll keep at it until I'm no longer able to catch a wave by paddling.@@johnspence9718
All credit to this champion for taking one for the team and not fucking up old mates wave with a loose board to the shins! Respect 🤘
“Yup - that’s me in the lip. You’re probably wondering how I got here…” 😉
please make more videos like this one ❤❤❤
amazing footage and thank you.
I have never been so proud of the human race. Especially big wave riders.
? the human race is blowing it!
We all been there that one time. Maybe 6 feet or 30, the memories are lock for life.
AWSOME. ❤❤❤❤❤ great explanation with visuals.
Thanks!
respect to the dude for staying with his board and not letting it loose to impede others. I Never ditch my board, and have literally torn my rotator cuff trying to hold onto it on big swells.
Taking grinds that includes over the falls is the first thing you better learn because when it's outside, well you better learn ;) Some of the best views and feelings are going over the crest looking down on both sides when it's pumping.
Loved this video
maybe an interview with him that would be epic
Omg poor dude! I was in an 8ft wipeout and that was WAY WORSE than a 6ft wipeout and that was scary this thing is easily 3x that!
The guy getting smoked on the left is having some seaweed withe his tea.
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😅
Im so glad big wave surfing ruined my back so i dont have to surf big waves anymore.
I would literally die in this situation!!! Like seriously the courage these guys have just taken paddling out to the line up😮😢😢 RESPECT 🫡 ✊
I had lack of oxygen panick watching this guy getting shredded by the lips
Good points in isolating guys who were caught in very rough situations and suffered for it. I don't envy guys trying to punch through a huge wave that's already cresting ahead of them as they crawl up the steep face, knowing it's probably hopeless. Bad news.
Yeah, it's slabs out there. I miss home - Santa Cruz (I'm stuck in Florida) Puerto Rico has been the only decent size this month and even that's only been like 5 to 7 feet this month
great breakdown & yea our brother's in a bit of trouble on that one
Not just free-falling 30 feet, but then being pounded by thousands of pounds of falling water. Crazy!
BIG wave surfing is the bravest sport in the world, surpassing sky diving or anything ! It is TOTALLY the person (man) against (actually working with) the EXTREME of nature, with presition.
I hope both guys made it out ok
Put that picture on a poster in front of every break where you don't want a lot of people lol. That is an advertisement AGAINST going surfing lol
Give respect = get respect 🤙🏾
You should make shorts of vids like this! I bet it would help boost your audience
It certainly would
I don’t know how these guys surf waves this big. Going over the falls in 6-8 foot waves sucks and can be extremely scary at times. They do that in multiples. In waves this big you are going to get the snot knocked out of you at least once if you’re actually trying to surf it.
Pure chaos out there. Amazes me how many people charge big waves. Mad respect 🫡
hold downs like that scare me just watching i can surf double over head waves but 30 foot is a whole other level
And all in COLD 🥶 af water!!
How do more not die? These situations must not be as bad as they look.
Yeah, especially when there are people out on a crowded day who don't care or who don't have a clue.
Those situations can bring death, but humans are pretty tuff. We're hard to kill.
@@shockmarkets7384 No, we're not, actually.
It is the legendary Peter Mell's board.
Hurtin' for certain!
I can't even imagine what that looks like coming at you and you're at the very cusp of oh s*** do I ditch do I keep going. The dear God I can't imagine going over the falls like that 30 plus feet holy s***. Crazy it really is got to be just crazy out there. RLTW 3/75
Just saw the newest blog by Jamie OBrian getting picked off by a 3rd reef pipeline set.All da Boyz went down to kiss Neptune's feet.
It's bad enough getting caught in that position on overhead days I can't imagine 30 footers jfc.
I think the technical term for that is Donuts.
Brad, this made me shout oh no out loud. That’s a shit situation to be in
Horrific Hold Down - eee gad
It’s so crowded these days more and more people are dying and this will only increase.
Saw this video 2 days ago!
Yeah but the stories he'll be able to tell 8-P
nice pundit´s review🧐
I just read heaps of the comments and was thinking the same, how the phuc do they survive the beating and hold down! then i remembered that they wear inflatable vests, im gonna watch this one again to see if i can notice a vest on him, but surely its the only way they can survive.
They almost die..and then say more please🤣
Scarry stuff. 30 foot fall and the hold down after that. Then trying to get out of the IZ after when you are spent from trying to stay alive. Let's go big wave surfing it will be fun...
i want to know what happened to the right corner guy lol
He's shopping for waterproof Depends
Well I think he just had to expect one of the most brutal hold downs, and then gathered his thoughts and probably paddled back out. I bet he doesn't ever get himself in that position again.but I'm with you ,it's so unlucky we couldn't see were he ended up.probably five football fields from were he dived that I do believe.ouch that would of been so heavy.....
Yeah mate these things happen in big surf
FILMAGEM,INCRÍVEL😂COM BELOS VISUAIS
6 to 8 ft was my max Hawaii kind something about oxygen I really like
um..... today I did a cartwheel. yeah.
It's big, but you're generous with 30 feet
2ft Hawaiian
Could count that as a "ride"
More videos like this
Lol that sucks
If there's more than 15 ish people out you should surf somewhere else or wait for someone to come in
Been there
I don't understand how people survive that
Carnage
Over the falls! Been there done that.
Me too, but on 12-foot faces not 30-foot!
when was this shot?
Jesus Christ 😮
he died
Sorry for the tough love herein but this situation could be avoided by not paddling back through the drop zone. You got your turn now go around and get inline. I get that there are too many rats in the cage. However if the ride is not worth the crowd then find another spot.
Easier said than done. If it's some reef break, sure makes sense but not with beach breaks like most LA
😢
Paying dues…
If you’re gonna be dumb you got to be tough.
Don't you love those clean up sets ,nobody cares about anyone else next to them its just total self preservation paddling madly,, poor old m8 in the section.gone
30’ Realy! A squatting guy is not 6’. More like 4’ 18’ max. Get the hits. BTW. It’s called “getting sucked over” not backwards. KOOks Out. Can’t even lay on their boards right.
It'd be better if you just played the referenced video all the way through for the people who don't care about the commentary.
not sure why you focused on that one guy, there were 3-4 others that didnt make it over that wave that were lost in the white wash too.
IS small claime........saturist situacion
Poor guy? Just looks like a ton of uneducated and poorly skilled guys in the way with zero awareness of lineups, other people, and surfing skills. Of course a freak set could show up but even a normal set was threatening these guys’ positions. Big waves have gotten way too comfortable for guys who have no business being out there getting in the way.
Jesus is Lord Amen
this guys does not surf
That's some heavy s**t
Big wave circus.