The Truth About Surfing the Wedge

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  • Опубликовано: 17 янв 2025

Комментарии • 493

  • @AskDunceCapDerek
    @AskDunceCapDerek 4 года назад +143

    Awesome!! Loved the footage, info, and jazz- Excellent, Brad!! CheeWhoo!!

  • @rogeeeferrari
    @rogeeeferrari 4 года назад +63

    Grew up surfing there in the late 60's and it was never crowded, of course nobody would ever take a board out back then. There was no such thing as a boogie board, and a short board was 7 foot long. The wedge was so fun, great memories...

    • @FinlessBob
      @FinlessBob 3 года назад +1

      Yep me too. No crowds even on weekends! Now it's insane when it's good.

    • @igenr8
      @igenr8 2 года назад

      Me too. 1964-1967

    • @tr7b410
      @tr7b410 2 года назад

      I remember when Ron Romanowski went out on his knee board-a pioneer.Than Danny Kwock charged the wave & really gave it a legitimate reason to surf it on a fiberglass board.

    • @neon-original
      @neon-original 2 года назад +1

      Don’t know how to surf, these sports are always appealing to me… boogie boards are pretty annoying but it’s all I can use :/

    • @unrealuknow864
      @unrealuknow864 5 месяцев назад +1

      Hardboards ruined the Wedge experience.

  • @jom0bx189
    @jom0bx189 4 года назад +36

    A lot of Endless Summer inspiration here. I love it.

  • @Moondoggy1941
    @Moondoggy1941 4 года назад +47

    When I was working on the peninsula people would ask if the wedge was pumping, I told them that there always to ways to tell.
    1) If there is no parking the wedge is pumping.
    2) If you cannot hear it, it is not.

  • @ahmedkunbargi8096
    @ahmedkunbargi8096 4 года назад +85

    we need more of these endless summer vibe videos. great job, Brad. You even sound like Bruce Brown.

  • @totalt6600
    @totalt6600 4 года назад +77

    I am sure much of my knee pain I owe to an adolescence spent thinking I was immortal, at The Wedge.

    • @BradJacobson
      @BradJacobson  4 года назад +4

      Hahahaha, yep. Thanks for watching

    • @unrealuknow864
      @unrealuknow864 5 месяцев назад +1

      Feeling immortal at the wedge landed me in the hospital for a week with a torn ligament in my neck in 1989. Didn't hit my head on the sand, but the torque from being barreled did it

  • @SkiBroTheHeBro
    @SkiBroTheHeBro 3 года назад +2

    I’m 65 now. Back in my Days we only body served with the famous Duck Fins. From age 14-18. I was a surfer back then had tri fin Stick. Oh yeah they just came out like early 70s with tri fin surf boards. Never saw anyone try to surf the Wedge back then. They may have but I never saw it. Younger surfers are much better these days. Great video nice reminisce. Brings laughter and joy to my heart.

    • @FinlessBob
      @FinlessBob 3 года назад +1

      Same here! I am sure we have met back in the day. I lived there almost :)
      Believe it or not about 5 years ago my brother and I went and body surfed there but it was pretty tame :)

  • @tariqbouzayane4888
    @tariqbouzayane4888 3 года назад +30

    “people have been even killed riding this wave”
    *jazz music continues*

    • @mlackey9812
      @mlackey9812 3 года назад +3

      It's a crap wave (personal knowledge) and yes, about 4 people a summer walk into Newport and leave 'quads' I know of two personally.

    • @jzen1455
      @jzen1455 9 месяцев назад

      Before clicking on the video, I was expecting to hear some hard punk or metal music. The jazz took me aback lol.

  • @tomiday66
    @tomiday66 4 года назад +46

    Memories of the wedge late 60's through early 1970's: Everyone bodysurfed. Duck Feet or Churchills. Takeoff on the side wave and then fly across the peak. Speeding so fast it would rip your fins off and pull down your pants. I learned to tie the fins off to my ankles with boot laces. Left arm straight out in front plaining on the bare hand , right arm back with right hand rudder. Holding on until the last possible moment and then a left shoulder dip and successfully out the back, sweet! Or spectacularly over the falls and coming up with sand in places you didn't know were places. Gawd it was fun! And then the one day they brought down the kid in the wheel chair on his one year anniversary. Sobering.

    • @balaw1980
      @balaw1980 3 года назад +4

      I was there in the mid 60's. You did not mention the wedge takeoff. We would go underwater, kick like hell then pop into the face for a cranking ride down the shoulder.

    • @krisgraves9115
      @krisgraves9115 3 года назад +1

      My mom used to go to the Wedge every weekend when she lived in Redlands as a highschooler, said those days were the best

    • @cybolton302
      @cybolton302 3 года назад

      You described my few experiences perfectly.

    • @FinlessBob
      @FinlessBob 3 года назад

      Same here my friend. late 60-'s and early 70's. I was there almost everyday even just to ride the shore break :)

  • @longrider42
    @longrider42 4 года назад +5

    Rode the Wedge back in 84 on a boogie board. Only did it three times, that was enough for me. Those folks are nuts. And yes I love the movie "Endless Summer" Might watch it since its cold and snowy out where I live right now.

    • @BradJacobson
      @BradJacobson  4 года назад

      Thanks! It was 70 here today. ;)

  • @TheBigbrizzle
    @TheBigbrizzle 4 года назад +58

    Ah man no mention of catching the side wave into the peak! Need to do a part 2 just on that

  • @martinacorry5446
    @martinacorry5446 Год назад +2

    You have to be very good and super experienced to contemplate the huge drop and complete your turn or if you straighten out. Willing to sacrifice your board too. Absolute perfect timing and lightening reactions. I have seen perfect rides on film -- probably 1 for 100 by the best. Not a place to learn ! I f i made it 2 times i would be happy and retire my board. Boogie board fun too with better chances but one still has to have top skill to avoid being pile driven or back smashed on the sand. Dare devils and as touch crazy fits the bill !

  • @MichaelConferPhoto
    @MichaelConferPhoto 3 месяца назад

    Love the narration, conversational, humorous, reminded me of Beach Boys radio promos I have heard from the early sixties. Very Bruce Brown esque with the longer surf clips and the music. Thanks.

  • @docwill184
    @docwill184 3 года назад +2

    Bruce Brown 2.0. Good job; a new fav go-to...

  • @jamesleon2770
    @jamesleon2770 4 года назад +8

    Loving these vids bro,ill probably never surf these waves in real life so this is as good as it gets

  • @rabbisnail
    @rabbisnail 3 года назад +4

    Never surfed a minute in my life but I’m in love with this sport.

    • @faceripper77
      @faceripper77 3 года назад +1

      Im from florida coast and tried a lot but never once rode a wave. But Ive had many dreams of surfing and riding waves. Weird but awesome

  • @richarddyson4380
    @richarddyson4380 4 года назад +4

    Love that cool jazz to accompany an excellent narrative and great footage!

  • @Lotus-Son
    @Lotus-Son 4 года назад +12

    I love the "truth about...." Series you got going. Mainly when it comes to surfing. We make up misinformation in our head from assumptions made from just these edits that only show the highlights without the crowd and sea of cameras and the surroundings around the actual wave/main peak.

  • @pinkcanoe
    @pinkcanoe 4 года назад +5

    Just recently came across your videos. I've watched other videos of people surfing this spot. With that wild wave action it always seemed to me (a non-surfer and now too old to learn) that it was kinda nuts. Surfers rarely seemed to be able to surf a wave without getting pummelled. Looks really brutal and your comments confirm that, well, it is! Thanks for the great commentary as well as the jazz in the background.

    • @BradJacobson
      @BradJacobson  4 года назад

      Thanks for watching. Yes, there are far more wipe outs than successfully risen waves.

  • @AndieZ4U2
    @AndieZ4U2 3 года назад +1

    Although I sure would love to jump on in, I think Ill stand on the shore and TRY to keep my pie hole shut. Wont be easy for this buck wild lion in a china shop. Naturally, eh? I gotta gut feeling you guys and gals are hanging 100 and loving it. I'm overwhelmed with gratitude and thankfulness. We are here to GO GO GO GO GO !

  • @AimeeNolte
    @AimeeNolte 4 года назад +41

    Great video essay - organ trio bkgrnd music was a nice touch.

  • @AskDunceCapDerek
    @AskDunceCapDerek 4 года назад +4

    Loved this!!! Great info, footage, and jazz. Cheewhooo!

  • @chrisfourment3
    @chrisfourment3 4 года назад +8

    You mentioned the insider no one can catch, except the real boogies. That inside one the those days is super fun

  • @reggiebald2830
    @reggiebald2830 4 года назад +1

    Surf & played pre-prohibition (60s), no boards, few 'belly' boards, Dick Dale @ The Rendezvous, cattle on the Irvine hills, the 'downtown' was (is?) Balboa. Still "the prettiest left" (Thank you!); & I haven't been back, so I double appreciate your great work. THANKS!

  • @danielcruz8347
    @danielcruz8347 3 года назад +1

    PRODUCTION MASTERPIECE...FROM INFORMATIVE NARRATION..SIGHTS..AND ESPECIALLY THOSE JAZZ SOUNDS....WEDGE ON.....

    • @BradJacobson
      @BradJacobson  3 года назад +1

      Thank you! I really appreciate the kind words.

  • @joshuabluhm3871
    @joshuabluhm3871 4 года назад +2

    Thx for the video! Beautiful imagery, very nice jazz music and soothing voice!

  • @mwngw
    @mwngw 2 года назад +2

    I thought I was a good swimmer until I tried the Wedge. I'd bodysurfed the outside break at Huntington Beach often during big days, no problem. But hell, us guys decide to go out into the Wedge with our duck feet, maybe an 8' day, 1968. But 15 footers start coming in and I have no idea how I'm gonna get back to shore without getting really effed up. So it lets up a bit and I take an 8 footer....God I got killed. By some miracle I crawled ashore. Never again.

  • @hokozebren
    @hokozebren 4 года назад +3

    Thus is awesome dude, gave me endless summer feels or something. Basic simple but want I wanna see. Thanks dude.

  • @1topskyrocket
    @1topskyrocket 2 года назад +3

    I lived in the Santa Monica area, and I went down there approximately 3 or 4 times, and every time I saw a surfer attempt to take a wave, their surfboard seemed to end up broken.
    You're showing really huge waves at the wedge. They were always about half that size when I was there and more timid but still powerful. I always body surfed.

  • @Monkeyabroad
    @Monkeyabroad 3 года назад +41

    I wish all locals spoke in such a friendly way. My experience with locals is always something like, “GTFOTW you f***ing kook!!”

    • @polyduckwanaland
      @polyduckwanaland 3 года назад +9

      I wipe out 45 feet away from anyone and I still get yelled at. Localism in Rhode Island is tough. Worst part is, I’m a kid. I’m only 14 and these fully grown men have nothing better to do than yell at a kid

    • @_Jake.From.Statefarm_
      @_Jake.From.Statefarm_ 3 года назад +1

      @@polyduckwanaland Just remember what it will teach you when you get older. Getting yelled at sucks when you're new but if you're respectful and stick with it they will respect you. It's like the Military , it sucks getting yelled at but they have reasons for it.. Some places you have to be mentally tough.

    • @douglashanlon1975
      @douglashanlon1975 2 года назад +1

      It's not just locals...I went there in the mid70s and on big days there would be 50 body surfers there and five had enough skill to ride it.
      I remember screaming at the assholes in the way if you aren't trying to catch a wave get the fuck out of the water and watch.
      That left it for me and three locals and we put on a show.

    • @mikelaurence6901
      @mikelaurence6901 2 года назад +3

      Was out at swami's on the biggest day I've ever seen out there spring of 82 I was 16 Shawn Thomson riped all day and was so cool to me when I paddled right out to the out side peak line up Dale Dobson started yelling at me get the F out of here your gonna get killed everybody started scrambling for horizon I flipped Dale the bird Shawn grinned a mile wide I turned around and paddled into the first wave of the set to hoots and hollers got barreled in all three sections paddled right back out to nothing but grinns from all that dude never said a word to me ever again 😜 ever I've never had a better day In my life 🌀

    • @Monkeyabroad
      @Monkeyabroad 2 года назад +1

      @@mikelaurence6901 awesome tales from the tube

  • @spookyfizz
    @spookyfizz 26 дней назад

    Brad read this. I moved from Orange County in 2013. Grew up at Newport Beach it’s my favorite place on earth. Now I’m priced out of living there. Cant move back. Need another 600k. Brad thank you for your content. It brings a tear to my eye, it pulls at my heart.. It really does. You understand what I’m talking about. Thank you. 🙏

  • @clarkewi
    @clarkewi 4 года назад +21

    Well done.

  • @jacksonkerins3037
    @jacksonkerins3037 4 года назад +3

    Grown up near the wedge my whole life. Sister was a lifeguard there as well. She has pulled dozens of people out of the water there with all kinds of injuries. When it gets big it is truly a sight to behold

    • @BradJacobson
      @BradJacobson  4 года назад

      It's insane to watch when it's big. Thanks for watching.

  • @magiccheeseball
    @magiccheeseball 4 года назад +2

    The most entertaining wave to watch that's for sure!

    • @BradJacobson
      @BradJacobson  4 года назад +1

      It's amazing. Thanks for watching.

  • @stevekleinhenz8262
    @stevekleinhenz8262 2 года назад +3

    Body surfed some 5 to 7 ft waves back in 1976! I got pounded by some heavy ones! Great 👍 video

  • @lauriecarter8931
    @lauriecarter8931 3 года назад +3

    To the guys that surf the wedge on big days on surfboards you guys are unbelievably insane it takes alot of skill and Balls to tackle Big Wedge!!!!from West Oz.

  • @Michael-h6q
    @Michael-h6q 15 дней назад

    I stared body surfing the Wedge back in 1963 and the first thing one learned is when to bail out before you get to the shallows. Sometimes as your powering down a wave and your getting to the end the back wash would flip you right over onto about two feet of ocean and then the wave would slam down right on you. Two things I learned was, don't fight the foam and be able to hold your breath. The Wedge is a memory that I've held all my life and I'm glad I did it. The Wedge is Busting.

  • @jeffbauer3425
    @jeffbauer3425 4 года назад +3

    Love your narration Brad. And Especially no crap music in the background.

  • @geraldtarpley3103
    @geraldtarpley3103 2 года назад +3

    I remember when Harley anybody knew about the Wedge except for locals and a few in landers.✌️😎

  • @matthewperkins288
    @matthewperkins288 4 года назад +1

    Brad, great video. The term is reflect not refract. Refraction occurs when a wave changes mediums. Reflection is when a wave bounces off. Diffraction is when a wave bends around something. I LOVE THIS VIDEO THOUGH!!

    • @BradJacobson
      @BradJacobson  4 года назад

      Ahhh, good catch. Didn't think before I spoke. Thanks for watching. Really appreciate it.

  • @arthousefilms
    @arthousefilms 4 года назад +2

    You should do one of these about Fort Point!

    • @BradJacobson
      @BradJacobson  4 года назад +1

      They may put a hit on me for that. Hahahaha. Thanks for watching.

  • @stampscapes
    @stampscapes 3 года назад

    great looking footage on some great days

  • @doghouseriley8696
    @doghouseriley8696 Год назад +1

    Great video. I love the wedge! I stopped off there on my way back from CR in early May and got skunked, which almost never happens. No worries; I'll be back often all summer. WAIT: I just realized who made this video. Strong work, Brad!

  • @jashannon
    @jashannon 2 года назад +2

    Excellent little documentary thank you. and a great collection of videos. I think the only thing you didn't mention was that East Newport beaches have steeper sloped shore breaks. whereas in West Newport they break far out. and the wedge is essentially the very end of East Newport, which is why the slope of the shore is steep. and it's probably even worse of a slope because the wedge beach is up against the harbor jetty. as a youth growing up in Newport, I never did bodyboard or bodysurf at any of the shore breaks. especially the wedge, lol. hitting the sand didn't look like a good idea. I boogie boarded around 44th Street which had a permanent blackball in the summer. but even over there I almost drowned on one rogue hurricane wave that pulled me over the falls upside down by my leash from the boogie board being pulled by the wave. which would be green flag at Nazare, lol. I have no idea how the big wave riders do it. it seems to me they should have small scuba tanks, tee hee. John Wayne became an actor because of getting injured at the Wedge, btw, as it caused him to lose his USC football scholarship. hats off to the East Newport Madmen... p.s. what happened to the body surfers? it used to be primarily a body surfing spot. aka Dirty Old Wedge video.

  • @jimmalmo909
    @jimmalmo909 3 года назад +1

    Screen shot 4:54 where's Jaime?!!! Love your vids Brad! I have been making my own since I got a Super 8 camera back in the early 70's! You are a MASTER!

    • @BradJacobson
      @BradJacobson  3 года назад

      Thanks! Super 8.. that's good stuff.

  • @townshendshean
    @townshendshean 3 года назад +1

    I had a friend who got paralyzed from the waist down there back in the early 1980's.I haven't surfed there since. I used to go WATCH Mike Stewart ride there though...he was amazing!

  • @cudiving2150
    @cudiving2150 4 года назад +2

    Cool video, enjoyed the info on this crazy dangerous spot.

  • @QU1RKONE
    @QU1RKONE 2 года назад

    Great intro and synopsis of the Wedge. Thanks!

  • @nikolasgibson3438
    @nikolasgibson3438 4 года назад +3

    This was so awesome. I now have an odd aspiration to get absolutely worked and pounded.

    • @BradJacobson
      @BradJacobson  4 года назад +1

      Hahahahaha. It's almost guaranteed!

  • @Eddy_zilla
    @Eddy_zilla 4 года назад +8

    Glad you mention bout the parking motorcycle time! I want to go see this soon but not surf it outta my league 😅

    • @BradJacobson
      @BradJacobson  4 года назад

      The parking can get crazy. Thanks for watching

  • @vanceduke5196
    @vanceduke5196 4 года назад +1

    excellent narration

    • @BradJacobson
      @BradJacobson  4 года назад

      Thanks for the kind words. Really appreciate it.

  • @cliffcurtistruth
    @cliffcurtistruth 4 года назад +1

    This used to be my Boogie Board spot back in the late 80s. Every time you get out of the water it feels like your head has been pounded in a boxing match but the waves are so fun we just couldn't resist. The crowd was much smaller back then.

    • @BradJacobson
      @BradJacobson  4 года назад

      The crowds have definitely grown! Thanks for watching.

  • @jacquesbothma6936
    @jacquesbothma6936 4 года назад +40

    SIDENOTE: leave the leash at home.

    • @Brycepsurfer
      @Brycepsurfer 4 года назад +6

      i mean you can wear your leash if you wanna break your board or get strangled😂

    • @wakeupmofoers691
      @wakeupmofoers691 4 года назад +1

      @@Brycepsurfer yes wear leash as a custom not as a lifesaver ? board keeper ?

  • @Moondoggy1941
    @Moondoggy1941 4 года назад +2

    I thought you would talk more about the game-changer at the Wedge, and that is the In and Out wave that brings the Uh and Oh, and watch out for that sandbed. the crowd favorite, I know you touched on it in the beginning.

  • @parabola8933
    @parabola8933 4 года назад +2

    I grew up on 24th Street. Miss that place and the dirty ol wedge.

  • @GregSr
    @GregSr 2 года назад +2

    I grew up in Westminster in the 60's and early 70's. We would ride our bikes to Huntington Beach and spend most of the day body surfing. I knew I lacked the strength (and guts) to take on the Wedge.

  • @StewartGartland
    @StewartGartland 3 года назад

    Terrific piece of surfing movie making. Cool, informative and fun with great footage!!

  • @clarkewi
    @clarkewi 4 года назад +1

    Good narration. I will watch safely from shore.

  • @toddmathis7484
    @toddmathis7484 Год назад +2

    The wedge has produced more paraplegics than anywhere in the world.

  • @stanramseyjr2
    @stanramseyjr2 4 года назад +4

    Favorite place to ride😁🌊

    • @BradJacobson
      @BradJacobson  4 года назад +1

      I totally understand why. Thanks for watching.

  • @ethankohan8278
    @ethankohan8278 4 года назад +8

    Yo I just found your video in my recommended and it’s some good stuff!! Do pipeline next!

    • @BradJacobson
      @BradJacobson  4 года назад

      Thanks! I need to get more footage from there first.

  • @trudyrivich369
    @trudyrivich369 3 года назад

    Great footage! Really fun to watch! So thankful I'm only an observer!!!

  • @bpz89
    @bpz89 4 года назад +1

    I have been loving your channel!

  • @JasonSmith-dd2ms
    @JasonSmith-dd2ms 4 года назад +1

    Fun to watch. Thanks.

  • @jonathansantos2271
    @jonathansantos2271 3 года назад

    Surfs up! Look at the break style that place has. I wonder if that was all in one day action?. Good spot tuning....thanks for keeping that place clean!

  • @stratman9449
    @stratman9449 3 года назад +3

    the Wedge....one of the best places to break your bones.....;-)

  • @paullangan8080
    @paullangan8080 3 года назад +2

    Dude I felt like I was watching a 70's surf movie ala Bruce Brown, thanks bro

  • @TannerMartty
    @TannerMartty 4 года назад +1

    Great video

  • @ifindtrends
    @ifindtrends 4 года назад +1

    Great perspective. Thanks

    • @BradJacobson
      @BradJacobson  4 года назад

      Thanks for watching. More are coming.

  • @Tribblepuppy
    @Tribblepuppy 3 года назад +2

    Grew up on the peninsula in the 60's and 70's, and used to bodysurf the wedge, but not when the monster waves came in. I had a school mate who broke his neck trying to bodysurf the big waves, and that's when I decided that it's not worth the risk.

  • @jakegravad4342
    @jakegravad4342 4 года назад +1

    I watch a lot of American documentaries, and am often disappointed, it’s boring, uninformative, repetitive, but this was EXCELLENT. Highly enjoyable, had a good rhythm, explained all the ins and outs....lm impressed. Well done mate. Thanks.

    • @BradJacobson
      @BradJacobson  4 года назад +1

      WOW, thanks for the kind comments

  • @m.oriley7700
    @m.oriley7700 3 года назад +1

    The Wedge is one of many reasons I'm a happy and proud Newport Beach resident.

  • @isoulsearch411
    @isoulsearch411 4 года назад +1

    Solid Wedge Vid, Bravo

  • @davidbradley3227
    @davidbradley3227 4 года назад +1

    Great vid and narration and music too. I’m subscribing

  • @chrismck27
    @chrismck27 2 года назад +1

    Can you please explain this blackball thing you said that happens at 10am-5am, I’m from Cronulla, Sydney Australia hey and have never heard of this, check out our local reef break aswell called Shark Island if you keen also plus we got a heap of other waves, but loving all your vids buddy, keep up the good work.

  • @spelldeck
    @spelldeck 4 года назад +4

    Never been there heard it's nuts and super heavy. And boards broken on a regular basis. Woould be amazing to catch one of these minsters and make it out.

  • @9nineish
    @9nineish 3 года назад +2

    In our 60’s mY wife and I went out on a small day, just we could have a story to tell. She is a beginner. We survived and thrived. My experience of watching the ocean kept us in a relative calm place but the wedge is powerful. Sandy beach kind of stuff. She earned the bumper sticker, “ Mom would go!”

    • @BradJacobson
      @BradJacobson  3 года назад +1

      That’s an awesome bumper sticker!

  • @ibreakthings4668
    @ibreakthings4668 Год назад

    What a perfect description of the Wedge...

  • @cybolton302
    @cybolton302 3 года назад +1

    Broke my arm there as a kid out on an average day in 1970. (Yes... my left arm!) Lost Churchills there another. The Wedge DOES charge a toll.
    Nice vid, laid back vibe, very Bruce Brown-ish.

  • @henryssurfshowcase
    @henryssurfshowcase 4 года назад +1

    Nice video you have, and commentating !

  • @mchammer5034
    @mchammer5034 4 года назад +1

    Nice video mate love your attitude👌

  • @jfrealestate201
    @jfrealestate201 4 года назад +7

    Great description! Can't wait to watch this wave never visited it before. Is it true Wedge only breaks in the summer, with a SW swell? Who says California wavs never get big or heavy? Stay informed people!

    • @anotherworldviewispossible
      @anotherworldviewispossible 4 года назад +2

      It breaks on anything from SW to SSE... But shape is best from 195° and East of that. It's a "Swell Magnet" - so almost always one of the biggest spots on the Coast in the Summers.

    • @skeptical-of-all1633
      @skeptical-of-all1633 3 года назад +2

      Mavericks yo

    • @LottiDotti76
      @LottiDotti76 3 года назад

      @@skeptical-of-all1633 that's what I was about to say. The first time I saw Mavericks. I tinkled a little. Been out for the Wedge, but never stupid enough to paddle out at Mavericks.

  • @hawaiianseaturtle009
    @hawaiianseaturtle009 4 года назад +52

    “She’s the most beautiful left barrel in the world!”
    *me laughing in pipe*

  • @richardelliott8352
    @richardelliott8352 2 года назад +2

    A broken bone from body surfing in Orange County had John Wayne off the USC football team, but he happened to join the team bus for some extra work on a movie. He had the spare time and interest to hang at the lot, and eventually got noticed . I suspect the wedge, famous for broken collar bones among body surfers, as the most likely spot for this injury.

  • @WeGachaMetal
    @WeGachaMetal 6 месяцев назад +1

    I tried to boogie board here last summer... not pretty. I'll stay in HB. lol

  • @ballerbrosmedia
    @ballerbrosmedia 2 года назад +2

    2:29 I’m the new GoPro kid that just wants to nail a shot lol

  • @isabeljohnson3279
    @isabeljohnson3279 4 года назад

    this is the perfect video for someone to know the wedge!!

  • @goldenacres3269
    @goldenacres3269 4 года назад +1

    The very best rides start from near the jetty, ride the reflection up into the "Spoon" then down the other side. I did that as a kid 55 years ago. Awesome experience. If you are right at the Spoon when the wave comes down off the beach, it can throw you higher than the jetty.

    • @gyro313
      @gyro313 4 года назад

      Golden and your board have to land on the inshore break where my children are body surfing?

    • @goldenacres3269
      @goldenacres3269 4 года назад

      @@gyro313 In boating we say you are responsible for your wake. I guess people should be responsible for their board. The ride I described, I have done bodysurfing with fins, no board. Enjoy your kids and the surf.

  • @drewfinn2
    @drewfinn2 3 года назад

    great commentary...kinda Bruce Brown like in a good way !! Nicely done 😎💯✨🤙🏼🤗

  • @TheRakuman
    @TheRakuman 3 года назад +3

    I love this place! Spent many hours in the surf here. Fortunately I was never injured. My only problem with the wedge is that there is no public restrooms.

    • @Rewiindz
      @Rewiindz 2 года назад

      That’s why there’s an ocean 😉

  • @paulbacon517
    @paulbacon517 3 года назад

    Well narrated
    Bravo

  • @arturomorettmorett9598
    @arturomorettmorett9598 3 года назад

    Dude! This channel is great!

  • @jeffbauer3425
    @jeffbauer3425 3 года назад

    Love the Bruce Brown style .

  • @tommyhofer1176
    @tommyhofer1176 4 года назад +6

    0:54 wedge usually gets better on a southern hemi swell right? I've always thought that because with the short swell interval hurricane swells dont wedge up off the jetty that well

    • @michaelmcconnell7302
      @michaelmcconnell7302 4 года назад +1

      they do but its a little further from the jetty and doesn't double up or drain the backwash the same

    • @anotherworldviewispossible
      @anotherworldviewispossible 4 года назад +2

      Yes and no. Since the Army Corps "Improvement" to the Jetty in 1996 - it likes as much S or SE in the swell as it can get, as far as the shape goes - and that's an angle common with Hurricanes . So Hurricanes tend to have crisper shape and less explosive energy, because of the shorter periods - which can be a good thing. There tends to be less makeable "sidewaves" than on a S. Hemi - but the peaks can be phenomenal. And there's usually a lot of waves, and waves per set, on a good Hurricane swell.
      The other commentor was correct. Often on a Hurricane there's two peaks - one in the preferred usual spot, over by the Jetty, and a "B Peak" over towards Cylinders. That "B-Peak" can have well-shaped A-Frames, that tend to be more user-friendly for board surfing - certainly much better for that, than they are on a S. Hemi.
      If you want to compare Hurricane energy to S. Hemi - look at RUclips videos from the 2014 Hurricane Marie swell, and the July 4 Swell from 2020. They both have their moments, their pluses and minuses.

    • @michaelmcconnell7302
      @michaelmcconnell7302 4 года назад +1

      @@anotherworldviewispossible do you know what exactly they did to the jetty?
      I read that at one point the jetty near Anderson st in Sunset would break like a reverse wedge on a west swell, but the navy added a bunch of sand that breaks up any swell that does make it there.

    • @anotherworldviewispossible
      @anotherworldviewispossible 4 года назад +1

      @@michaelmcconnell7302 The ACE took out what used to look like telephone poles running out to the end of it, and added a bunch more rocks - widening the base, and changing the slope. The sides of the Jetty used to be steeper, sending more sidewave energy back across the peaks, with less energy lost in the explosion onto the Jetty. The shape was much better, before the project, and it used to handle on swells with more SW, as well.

    • @michaelmcconnell7302
      @michaelmcconnell7302 4 года назад +1

      ok I remember the poles but I dont think I started riding wedge until about 97 so the quality if the wave has always been about the same, depending on sand and swell of course.

  • @lichen420
    @lichen420 3 года назад

    The writing, narration, editing, music, and camera do a good job of creating the feel or as an homage to a Bruce Brown film.

  • @xyzct
    @xyzct 4 года назад +19

    Bodyboarding wedges is one of the greatest joys in life.

  • @clifflong1203
    @clifflong1203 3 года назад

    Great video!! Thanks💪👌

  • @Cproductions1319
    @Cproductions1319 Год назад

    I like this series please do spots in San Diego like this…better yet Baja California if you ever come down

  • @williamchristian8705
    @williamchristian8705 4 года назад +2

    I’m 65. In my youth I hit it there in the 70s. I lived on the peninsula in the 80s.
    Shallow is an understatement. It’s like rolling off into sandpaper. I was a good friend of Dave Ellis. We went to HS together. He became a legend there. Also legendary surf guitarist Dick Dale had a house very close to the wedge. He rode his beach cruiser all over the area. I saw him often. Damn good times there.

  • @josharend9001
    @josharend9001 Год назад

    Great vid brother 😎👍 Please do an instructional intro vid to Puerto Escondido would be rad!!!