Yup. From the disodium tetraborate (borax) in the Harris flux. Burns off after a bit. An ultrasonic bath of hot water will take it off before use, too. BD
Using proper fuels there should be no soot. NEVER use automotive gasolines with such a stove and you will be soot free for life. But, should cleaning be necessary, just pop it in the ultrasonic cleaner with some solvent. Easy-peasy. BD
@Ismael Cortés 'Mayiiobros' Absolutely not! There is no more heat or fire above the tank with a cap than there is with the flame plate. As with the flame plate, the valve stem of the stove is cooled by the flow of fuel through it from the tank. No additional heating of the stove tank occurs with a cap versus a flame plate. BD
That's an actual 123 like mine! Not a 123R. Blue flame is hotter than yellow flame. It was good to see it go blue the second time around as that means it's getting a good hot flame. How will you attach it to the bell in order to keep it from accidentally coming off or coming loose if it tips a bit? Is there anyplace where one can buy a cap such as you made? I'm not handy, and don't know anyone who is.
@MammaDuck Commercial 3D printed versions of the silent damper caps I have invented/designed (the specs with which I helped this machinist fellow in the video) are available here: shpws.me/DWiP Techniques for securing an aftermarket silent cap to the burner bell are discussed in the cap instructions here: www.berniedawg.com/berniedawg-silent-damper-cap-instructions/ Any other questions you may have I'd be happy to answer via my business email here: bd@berniedawg.com Thanks! 👍 BD
@Dottor B Ha-ha! Yup. That “charm" is cool. But, your backpacking buddies who hike with you and are using those modern silent isobutane canister stoves will give you the stinkeye (and maybe stop inviting you) when they can’t converse without yelling over the scream of your stove at the quiet mountain lake. Then again… nobody says you HAVE to buy one and, good news, you can easily SWITCH back and forth with the flame plate while on the trail to fit circumstances. Win-win. No downside. 😎👍 BD
Nope. It's not solder - it's silver braze filler. Has a melt temperature of around 1300 deg F. A small amount of hot fuel vapor (less than 500 deg F) mixes with lots of room temperature air and flows through the cap to cool it all the time the stove is operating. The flamelets don't touch the metal of the cap, they are isolated by that cushion of fuel/air vapor which draws heat from the metal of the cap. Just like the cooling system in your automobile. These basic thermodynamic principles are why I was able to hand-build and sell hundreds of silent damper caps made from metal tubing and metal sheet a few years back. 👍 BD
@@1LRLRG I understand completely. Confusion about brazing and brazing filler versus solder and soldering is due to the unfortunate but too common misnomer of calling this process "silver soldering" instead of "silver brazing". Here is a nice link to the Harris people who make a range of brazing fillers with various amounts of silver. The technical info tabs can be instructive. www.harrisproductsgroup.com/en/Products/Alloys/Brazing/High-Silver/ Enjoy! BD
agreed the term "silver soldering" is stupid. today, anytime you join metal together with a torch people always assume it's soldering. i totally freaked out a couple of millennial co-workers by oxyacetylene welding together 2 coffee cans using a wire coat hanger as filler rod...
If by your question you mean, "what is the size of the jet aperture (hole)?", both 0.5mm and 0.8mm are incorrect. The jet aperture (hole) for the Svea 123/123R should be 0.23mm for proper performance. If you mean some other thing and I've misunderstood, please give it another try. 🙂BD
@@BernieDawgCinema Perfect thank you! That's why my Svea has low performance, I already bought used, I'm trying to restore it, learning a lot with your videos!!!
I'm not the feller who makes these, but I contacted the feller who does. He says he may have one or two still around. If you drop me an email, I can get you hooked up with the gent. berniedawgstove@comcast.net
![SahBabii - Viking [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/D37cL92JX0I/mqdefault.jpg)
Great review with comparisons of the two burner heads.
Linda peça de bronze.
Cap perfeito.
Gratidão.
@luiscarlosmarques3946 Sim. Obrigado.
Wow the flame plate makes a racket compared to the two burner caps.
Really enjoyed this video.
I really like seeing how you do these.
Thanks for sharing and God bless.
Thanks for watching! BD
i love all things brass and retro, its screams quality, reliability and a culture we seem to be getting father and farther away from.
The yellow orange tinge that burns off is probably sodium out of the residual flux that was left behind inside.
Yup. From the disodium tetraborate (borax) in the Harris flux. Burns off after a bit. An ultrasonic bath of hot water will take it off before use, too. BD
Is there such a need to solder the details? how to clean them, after prolonged use, accumulation inside the soot.
Using proper fuels there should be no soot. NEVER use automotive gasolines with such a stove and you will be soot free for life. But, should cleaning be necessary, just pop it in the ultrasonic cleaner with some solvent. Easy-peasy. BD
Great work
Thanks! I didn't make it. Just brazed it together. BD
The cap does not over heat the gas tank?
@Ismael Cortés 'Mayiiobros' Absolutely not! There is no more heat or fire above the tank with a cap than there is with the flame plate. As with the flame plate, the valve stem of the stove is cooled by the flow of fuel through it from the tank. No additional heating of the stove tank occurs with a cap versus a flame plate. BD
That's an actual 123 like mine! Not a 123R.
Blue flame is hotter than yellow flame. It was good to see it go blue the second time around as that means it's getting a good hot flame. How will you attach it to the bell in order to keep it from accidentally coming off or coming loose if it tips a bit?
Is there anyplace where one can buy a cap such as you made? I'm not handy, and don't know anyone who is.
@MammaDuck Commercial 3D printed versions of the silent damper caps I have invented/designed (the specs with which I helped this machinist fellow in the video) are available here: shpws.me/DWiP
Techniques for securing an aftermarket silent cap to the burner bell are discussed in the cap instructions here: www.berniedawg.com/berniedawg-silent-damper-cap-instructions/
Any other questions you may have I'd be happy to answer via my business email here: bd@berniedawg.com Thanks! 👍 BD
Very cool, but part of the charm of the Svea was that sound!
@Dottor B
Ha-ha! Yup. That “charm" is cool. But, your backpacking buddies who hike with you and are using those modern silent isobutane canister stoves will give you the stinkeye (and maybe stop inviting you) when they can’t converse without yelling over the scream of your stove at the quiet mountain lake. Then again… nobody says you HAVE to buy one and, good news, you can easily SWITCH back and forth with the flame plate while on the trail to fit circumstances. Win-win. No downside. 😎👍 BD
Any chance of drawings of your machined caps?
Maybe. But, can't do that in RUclips comments. :-) berniedawgstove@comcast.net BD
So the stove when it is going will not get the cap hot enough to remelt the solder?
Nope. It's not solder - it's silver braze filler. Has a melt temperature of around 1300 deg F. A small amount of hot fuel vapor (less than 500 deg F) mixes with lots of room temperature air and flows through the cap to cool it all the time the stove is operating. The flamelets don't touch the metal of the cap, they are isolated by that cushion of fuel/air vapor which draws heat from the metal of the cap. Just like the cooling system in your automobile. These basic thermodynamic principles are why I was able to hand-build and sell hundreds of silent damper caps made from metal tubing and metal sheet a few years back. 👍 BD
@@BernieDawgCinema thanks for the prompt response, I'm only familiar with solder so was not sure about properties of braze.
@@1LRLRG I understand completely. Confusion about brazing and brazing filler versus solder and soldering is due to the unfortunate but too common misnomer of calling this process "silver soldering" instead of "silver brazing". Here is a nice link to the Harris people who make a range of brazing fillers with various amounts of silver. The technical info tabs can be instructive. www.harrisproductsgroup.com/en/Products/Alloys/Brazing/High-Silver/ Enjoy! BD
agreed the term "silver soldering" is stupid. today, anytime you join metal together with a torch people always assume it's soldering. i totally freaked out a couple of millennial co-workers by oxyacetylene welding together 2 coffee cans using a wire coat hanger as filler rod...
Hi, what is the original size of the gas injector, 0.5 or 0.8mm? Thank you.(google tradutor)Congratulations of Brasil!
If by your question you mean, "what is the size of the jet aperture (hole)?", both 0.5mm and 0.8mm are incorrect. The jet aperture (hole) for the Svea 123/123R should be 0.23mm for proper performance. If you mean some other thing and I've misunderstood, please give it another try. 🙂BD
@@BernieDawgCinema Perfect thank you! That's why my Svea has low performance, I already bought used, I'm trying to restore it, learning a lot with your videos!!!
@@fechaed Thanks! BD
Are these available to purchase?? Would love to have one for my Svea
I'm not the feller who makes these, but I contacted the feller who does. He says he may have one or two still around. If you drop me an email, I can get you hooked up with the gent. berniedawgstove@comcast.net
Really great work
Good joob goood 👨🔧👨🔧👌