My trusty Svea got "torched" on a recent camping trip, rendering it unusable. Rather than buy a new MSR stove or similar, I used your disassembly and reassembly videos - along with a new wick and cap gasket - to refurbish it to good-as-new condition. I love my old Svea, and it's now crankin' once again. Your videos are nicely done, with good humor thrown in. Thank you!!
Found my way here from CCS after a neighbor gifted me a complete, but beat up Optimus 88 including a Svea 123R...last used 48 years ago! The stove fired right up when I tested it, so I came here to see how everything fits so I can give it a tune up. Great video, man - love the banter. Until watching this, I thought the valve stem was threaded left-handed...so the self-cleaning needle is likely seated way too deep, preventing the stove from shutting off! Edit: Just pulled the jet off mine, and yep - by the method you showed, the self-cleaning rack was started NINE teeth left from the closed position! It would bottom out almost 120 degrees from closed, and "shut off" could only achieved by the needle plugging the jet's orifice from turning the stem full left...but of course it would "candle" for a while and then seep fuel once the flame got blown out. Now it works like it always should have. Thanks for the informative video!
@VWAffe Thanks! Eleven years ago this video was first published here on RUclips and it's helped many, many people get their old stoves up and running correctly ever since. Glad I could help you and others. You can download a (free - no subscription required) manual for your Svea 123R from my website right here: www.berniedawg.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/optimus_123R_manual.pdf Keep the flame burning. 🔥👍BD
@@BernieDawgCinema just wanted to let you know I watched this tonight, June 16, 2024. Was having an issue shutting off the stove as maybe the needle is broke off. There is still a needle. But I was wondering if you could run by the needle adjustment again and another video
@karlfonner7589 ruclips.net/video/ay9iPwA5LRA/видео.html Remove your jet. Remove the cleaning needle by turning the spindle all the way counter-clockwise. Reinstall the jet. Try the stove. If it shuts off fine now, then you have an incorrectly set cleaning needle that is set too deep into the stove and won't allow the valve to close. Reinstall the needle higher (less clicks) in the stove. It may take you several tries to get it right. If the stove doesn't shut off when you close the valve all the way clockwise with no cleaning needle in place, then you have debris keeping the cone of the spindle from seating OR you have a damaged spindle tip. Further work is needed to correct this. On the other hand... if this is a new Svea 123R (purchased new sometime in the last ten years) it's probably just poor workmanship from the factory located in Asia where they are now made. Stick with vintage Swedish stoves instead of the poor quality new stoves now sold by Optimus/Katadyn. Need even more help? Email to bd@berniedawg.com BD
Thanks for putting this video up! I haven’t had my stove apart in years and needed a refresher. I also gained a bit of knowledge besides polishing up what I had!
the best stove ever on top of a mountain in a force 10 gale!! Got caught out once, weather report was wrong, Trangia blew out but this little baby worked a gem.....
Excellent! On the other hand, it is always camping best practice to come down a bit from the summit and find a sheltered spot with some amount of wind break to camp or cook. 👍 BD
I am working my way through all of your Svea 123 rebuild videos. I just "re-discovered" backpacking, and my old stove purchased in 1970. It has been in storage since the late 70's. I had always felt it should be rebuilt before I use it, but I was nervous about doing that until I found your videos. Thank you.
9 years later and this is still a very helpful video. I picked up my first 123r and it was a big help. Still trying to find an earlier 123 but they are uncommon in my area.
@Wesley Blair Thanks! Correct info never goes out of date. Fwiw, I see five+ Svea 123(no R) stoves on eBay at this very moment. Unlikely you'll find them at garage sales and such this long since they went out of production. They'll never go down in price. BD
Yeah, that pencil eraser trick and 4-5 click deal is ACE, mate! I use a 123 now, but my OCD wouldn't let me alone with this 123R have owned for mumble-mumble years and it wasn't working right, it must have lost a click somewhere. Works as it should now. Thanks for the tutorial!
You made my day because when I watch videos like this I usually discover that I don't have the cool version of whatever the subject is. But I have the slanted one! Yeah!
ran some old petrol through mine. ran rough. pulled it apart a bit and ran worse thanks for the video i needed 4 clicks running good now and turns off properly
@@BernieDawgCinema Australia hence the petrol and not gasoline. pulled apart an old 8r a while ago guess i just got lucky putting that needle thing in last time. I like petrol stoves can get that stuff anywhere
While gasoline (petrol) is found everywhere, todays RUG (regular unleaded gasoline) is nothing much at all like it was when your stoves were made. Todays gas has many more additives than in 1980 - additives which your stove just won't burn. Over time they'll bake into a sludge and foul your stove(s) since the stove(s) don't run hot enough to burn them. Plus, at least here in the USA, there's up to 10% ethanol in RUG which has lots less energy. Best thing to run in your stove(s) for their longest life, best burn and trouble-free performance is Coleman fuel, Crown fuel or other similar naphtha stove fuels. Sure, they cost more. But, unless you are living in the woods full time and your stoves are twice daily users, you'll likely spend more on petrol in your car to get the trailhead than you will spend on a whole years of stove fuel. 👍 BD
Thank you Claudio. Although there are some exceptions, most self-pressurizing stoves will use a wick to draw the fuel into the burner. It's pretty cool that they work like that. Glad to help. BD
Hi Bernie. Any idea where to get a replacement graphite bushing for this stove? I'm assuming it would also work for the 123, which is what I need it for. Don't know if the comments section is the appropriate place for asking questions, but couldn't figure out any other way to do it.
@Harley Bootman Oops!! Don’t assume. If you have the Svea 123 (no R) then the spindle is much smaller in diameter, as is the spindle housing, than in the Svea 123R. The Svea 123R and 123(no R) graphites are not interchangeable. Completely different beasts. The tiny graphites for the 123(no R) are made of unobtanium and are mostly rebuilder duplicated by wrapping the shaft of the spindle with graphite tape. But, most folks don’t need to do that since they never actually removed the graphite on the no-R in the first place. Just tighten the no-R spindle nut and you should be good to go in that case. You can get parts in the USA from spinnakerspar. He’s an eBay seller of stove parts and there is a link to him in my Stove Parts Links webpage. The link to that webpage is just below this video in the description box. Lots of other helpful part suppliers at the parts webpage, too. BD
@MrMrBiggles Nope. Not drinking coffee makes no difference. That's because it's a thang called "Essential Tremor" - like Parkinsons, but different. (It still sucks, though). www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/essential-tremor/symptoms-causes/syc-20350534 You're welcome on the video. BD
watched your video on putting new gaskets in my optimus stoves Where can I get the blue Vicom gaskets you showed . I have 45's , 48's 123's , 00's and 111's from my days as a wilderness outfitter. They date back to the 70's and 80's when I was a wilderness trip leader. I used to get my replacement parts from a guy in LA.
The seventies and eighties were 30-40 years ago now. If the fellow in LA you used to get parts from is the one I think he is, I sadly believe he may have passed away. Ebay is the place that's easiest to get gaskets and seals. Just do an eBay search on "Svea stove seals gaskets" and you will get several USA sellers. Or, order parts from Base-Camp in the UK if they still have any remaining and you don't mind the shipping cost and fulfillment lag time. But, even Base-Camp is running short of many items after all these years. The blue Viton gaskets I use in my videos are ones I cut myself from Viton sheet I buy on... yep, eBay. I bought sets of Mayhew concentric hollow punches to cut them with. I make my own seals for stoves I'm repairing or restoring for clients, but I'm not in the business of making/selling gaskets and seals beyond that. Sorry. Metal parts like spindles, jets and the like are also being made as quality reproduction parts by folks in Taiwan, Hong Kong, S. Korea and Japan. Again, eBay is the place to check for these. If you need stove repairs done beyond simple gasket changing or need more help, drop me an email: berniedawgstove@comcast.net BD
I've had a Pak Cook 235 for over 40 years, all this time I thought it was a 123. When on a backpacking trip (25? years ago) it started to burn out through the spindle. I didn't know enough about it to try to repair it but after watching your videos I'm inspired to try. My question; is the graphite packing interchangeable with the Svea? It doesn't look like it's coming apart, I'm going to try it as is but if it still won't seal can I use the 2094?
So, 45 minutes after my last post, rebuild is done & tested. Works great! To think that I could have still been using it all this time... Had a friend give me his older Peak 1 model 400, used it for a few years, then bought a Peak 1 #3024, used it for several years. Currently using a Jetboil Flash, but I'll never give up my old "Svea"! Hope my son will appreciate it...😉
@Gary Dahle Wow! Great Job, there, Gary Dahle! Sorry I had some other life-things going and didn't respond immediately when you posted your comment. Glad you got everything worked out and all is well with your Pak Cook. Success feels goooood. 👍😎 BD
Hey Gary, did you use a graphite strip or were you able to find a graphite seal that was the right diameter. I see stuff for sale, but they're strips you cut up. Thanks.
Not really. It's thick, large diameter 100% cotton cordage as found on 100% cotton floor mop heads. Use synthetic blend cord and the wick will melt into goo inside the stove body. Yuck. BD
@Lorin-GabrielLeaua-fm1lw Asbestos is a controlled substance banned in most parts of the world due to its health effects. Don’t think you can still buy it and it would be foolish to handle it. Original stove wicks were made of spun mineral fiber. That’s a good safe replacement if you can find it in cord form. But, the 100% cotton wick I show in my videos is a good substitute that is accessible to normal people in our modern world. Try it and see. BD
Good job on the 1 & 2 videos. I didn't see you dig into the pressure relief valve on the filler cap. I just purchased a Svea 123r and wondering if this valve needs maintenance. I can't find a tool bit to fit the pentagon hole? Do you have any suggestions?
Thanks, Chris Culp. The SRV and pumpable SRV fuel caps are the subject of another two-part video pair which you can find here: ruclips.net/video/d6SEE1ToCSQ/видео.html and here: ruclips.net/video/a0BRBzuN0g8/видео.html I build custom SRV Penta-Wrenches from scratch. Contact me at berniedawgstove@comcast.net to find out more.
Hi Berniedawg, thanks for all the great videos on the svea123r. I'm having an issue with mine since I bought it new. I had it go from priming to lighting itself which I fixed by retiming the cleaning needle. However I only get a positive shut off.. 10% of the time. It candles for a while. I took out the spindle cleaned the mating surfaces and inspected for any scoring still does it. Debating on picking up a rebuild kit and throwing a new spindle in. Any advice? Also thinking of wrapping the threads with some pink Teflon tape (the one for gas and propane lines). Thanks!
@Christopher Patterson Thanks for your note. There are too many issues here to cover all this in a RUclips comment or to have a running exchange in RUclips comments. I maintain a free "help line" at my business email address. Let's just move this discussion there, please. Thanks! 👍😎 bd@berniedawg.com Talk to you soon. BD
Well... I reckon if it came with one in there, it's the right thing to do to put it back. That makes it like it came from the factory for the next guy. Having it there won't hurt anything and may improve the performance. (Or, at least the makers thought so by putting one in in the first place.) But, it's your stove... and you can do as you like. 👍 (Fwiw, I always put parts back if they were there already. Maybe just me?) BD
You have probably distorted what should be a smooth cone shape on the end of the spindle by using too much force. Brass is soft. More force is not the answer. Pull the spindle out and see if there is a step on the spindle cone. If so, you can spin the spindle in a drill or lathe and try to clean up the cone face with a file or sandpaper while spinning it OR you might just want to get a new spindle to replace it. Base-Camp in England has them. You can find their address on my webpage of stove part suppliers here: www.berniedawg.com/stove-part-supplier-links/ BD
@@BernieDawgCinema Wow, thanks Bernie for your quick and very helpful advice! I will for sure try that out. Thanks for making these videos - it is such a valuable contribution to all of us who are hooked on blue flames !!
@Bert Heideveld The spindle packing around the spindle is made of a compressed graphite. You can get the spindle packings here as Optimus part number 2094: www.base-camp.co.uk/Optimus.html And look at the stove diagram here: www.base-camp.co.uk/exploded%20views/Optimus/123R%20Svea-Climber.htm You can also use a pure graphite ribbon to wrap your own graphite spindle packings. Material specs and how to do that is beyond the scope of RUclips comments. Contact me via email for that. BD
Great tutorials Bernie thank you. I just got two Svea 123R in a trash to treasure day in my town...guy was tossing them out. I watched your turtorials and had to rebuild one. Luckily the box the stoves came in had a complete rebuild kit too. A question please. The graphite packing that goes on the spindle....do you simply take it from the package and place it over the shaft, or unravel it and wrap it. I hope I did it right by just slipping it on over the shaft, but there appears to be paper in between the graphite tape like material. Thank you
If you have the graphite tape material with the paper backing... I remove the paper backing and tightly wrap the spindle shaft with the graphite ribbon. There is usually an adhesive on the back of the graphite ribbon that makes this no so hard to do. If you feel the ribbon is too wide, you can always fold it in half lengthwise as you wrap it around the shaft.The spindle nut will mash the graphite ribbon you've wrapped around the spindle shaft into a nice compressed block when you thread it down into the valve body. Hope that helps.
OK thanks...Dam !!! thought I just slid it onto the shaft. Might have really mucked that up. Do you use the entire roll or just a short section. Crap.....
I have my own roll of graphite tape and I cut lengths from that when I need graphite tape. I've not bought the stuff from the guy on eBay you bought it from, so I don't really know how much you get. I'd suggest using as much of the graphite tape as you can get around the spindle shaft and in the spindle housing as it crushes down pretty small. The paper backing will get pretty hot and will likely burn and cause you leaks and stuff. If you need more help with this, just drop me an email at: berniedawgstove@comcast.net Thanks!
Bernie Dude, Hey, I have a older 123 and am trying to reassemble it. I have cleaned it, put on new tank gasket and just watched you showing the valve reassemble. The kit I got contains theses little round solid gaskets and I don’t know if they go to this stove or a different one. I also replaced the wick. Do you have any ideas or is there only the tank gasket? Thanks, Brad
The "little round solid gaskets" are probably pips for the SRV (safety release valve) fuel cap. Take a look at the fuel cap video here and you'll see what that's about and whether those are SRV pips that you have there. ruclips.net/video/d6SEE1ToCSQ/видео.html BD
If you mean the cleaning needle/rack in the Svea 123R, the stove comes with it and yours should, too. If you messed yours up and you need a new one, you can get one through Base-Camp in the UK. Just use the link for my Parts Suppliers at my webpage: www.berniedawg.com/stove-part-supplier-links/ BD
@MARKIEBANUNCE Looked at some of your videos. You have a Svea 123 (no R) stove. So... you can use a high E string off your guitar to clean the jet since there is no built-in cleaning needle. You can make a handle for the short section of guitar string by using a slip of aluminum from a beer can. Crimp the string in one end and you are good to go as long as you don't do it while the stove is burning. Roofing sheet metal can be used for the same handle if you want one for use with the flame going. BD
Hi, Great video! I need help. I have put new parts in my 123 but after pre-heating there is almost no air/whitegas mix coming out of the burner head. I have replaced all essencial parts. I gave the needle 5 clicks. What can i do to get it runnin? Thanx!
@Jan Vink You should remove the cleaning needle and try the stove without it to make sure the way you’ve set it is not the problem. If the stove was ever used with automobile gasoline, then the passage from the jet to the tank may be clogged with auto gasoline sludge. You can clear that with a thin wire or guitar string. But, if you haven’t rebuilt the fuel cap entirely (I have another video for that), then you probably aren’t developing pressure as you have a pressure leak in the SRV (safety release valve) of the fuel cap. That’s about all we can do in comments at RUclips. For more help beyond this brief note in a severely limited text-only format, just send an email to my help address here: bd@berniedawg.com We’ll get you fixed up and running right. 👍 BD
@Jan Vink If you want to buy a new fuel cap, try Base-Camp in England. If you want to rebuild the fuel cap with new seals, you can get the cap seal from Base-Camp, but will have to buy the SRV pip from someone like eBay's spinnakerspar in the USA. Links to these vendors and many more are at my links page at my website here: www.berniedawg.com/stove-part-supplier-links/ My Optimus/Svea fuel cap rebuilding video is right here: ruclips.net/video/d6SEE1ToCSQ/видео.html BD
Hi there, I may have mentioned I have a Number 7 cooker [a version made for the British armed forces] it's based on the Svea 123R. mine works, but in reverse! when rotated to the right it's full flame, it lowers when turned to the left [anti/counter clockwise] it goes off when the cleaning pin pops out. what would be your advise to correct it? Thanks in advance!
@473specop I have a BM #7, too. It works just like a regular stove is supposed to. = Off when fully to the right, big flame in the middle, cleaning needle extends out when fully to the left. Yours sounds like the cleaning needle is set too low. Remove the cleaning needle. Before you reinsert it, try the stove without it. You should now find it shuts off turning to the right like it's supposed to. Now, reset the needle in the stove as I show in my video and try it again. If the needle is set properly, the stove should now work as intended. Rewatch the video here to see how to do this correctly.. If it doesn't shut off, reset the needle higher (fewer clicks). Try it until you get it right. Usually takes newbies a few tries. Be patient. You can do it. Good luck! BD
@472specop You betcha! And if you need additional help or run into difficulties, it's easy enough to send an email to: bd@berniedawg.com where I can trade photos with you that show what I'm talking about probably better than my words. BD
@@BernieDawgCinema Hi again, well after much fiddling around with 'clicks' it seems I've seated the cleaning needle correctly, I've used it a few times today, Pre-heated and then for the first time in years; ignition, a good flame and it turns off promptly. So a big thank-you from me for your help, Cheers!
Wouldn't it be cool if you could use denatured alcohol in a Svea 123? But, you can't. It won't work. Alcohol mixes with air at a completely different ratio than white gas (Coleman fuel, aka naphtha). White gas is the ONLY fuel you should use in a Svea 123/123R. Avoid RUG (regular unleaded gasoline), too, as modern formulations of RUG are nothing at all like they were back when these stoves were invented by Swedes. RUG will cause clogging and sooting. I know! RUG-clogged Svea 123/123Rs bring me lots of $$$ when I end up repairing them for clients. 🙂 BD
@Maricela Quintero The Svea 123R has been sold for over sixty years and there are millions of successfully running stoves and millions of happy owners out there. While vintage models tend to work better than the made-in-Taiwan new stoves, if you are having trouble it is almost certainly a user issue rather than a stove issue. (IE - your problem not doing things right, not the stove.) Make sure to read the instructions to learn how to run the stove properly and watch my videos on how to light and run the stove. If it still doesn't work for you: bd@berniedawg.com 👍 BD
If you mean the one that appears at 12:45 in the video, that is a BAHCO #9029 6" adjustable wrench. I bought it originally mostly just for the BAHCO name. But, it's a really nice wrench whose jaws hold true parallel. The short length helps to avoid over-torquing. Shop around for the best price as one vendor at Amazon is charging almost $50 and that's too high. BD
I really enjoy your videos but the am trying to find some other info on a Primus 17 it lights has a nice blue flame but blows itself out after about 30 to 40 seconds. Thank you for any help
Could be a Radius 17, or a Monitor 17B, or even a Primus 107? Primus 17 is not a stove that was made unless you've the first ever found. Send some photos to my email in the description box and I can help you figure the number and why it burns as it does. BD
Hi I recently bought a Svea 123 it appears a bit simpler to deal with. I have not filled it yet but it seems that the only Issue it might have that I don't know how to repair is a leak in the fuel valve. could you dismantle one and show maintenance procedures ? I have not been able to find a video that shows this repair being done. Thank you for your time and great videos.
Most of the time just tightening the spindle nut on a Svea 123 or 123R will correct any leakage at the spindle. If you need to replace the worn graphite packing on a Svea 123, (not R), eBay seller "spinnakerspar" both sells graphite tape to remake the packing, and includes a tutorial in their listing how to use it. It's inexpensive and pretty easy. BD
@IthinkthereforeIam OrsoIthought Thanks! The Coleman Peak 1 is well-documented for rebuilding on RUclips and at the Coleman Collectors Forum already. Any video I would do would just be rehashing what is already available and done well. No reason to reinvent the wheel, I reckon. Try some more searching and you should be able get some good information on rebuilding this stove. Good luck and happy camping! BD
@Ma Ni These worked well with automobile gasoline 50 years ago. Today auto gasoline is very different than back 50 years ago. Todays auto gasoline will clog them up pretty fast. Use Coleman fuel, naphtha, MSR Superfuel, Aspen 4T, or Shellite today. Do not use with regular unleaded gasoline for automobiles in these stoves. 👍 BD
I have an 80 that I would like to fettle a bit- but the vaporiser tube is stuck. Do you have any top tips to get it out- or is it just brute force? Being very cautious- don’t want to squash the tank! Also....would it be possible to run it on alcohol? I know it would need a larger jet- .5mm seems to be the right size- would I need to do anything else? I’m very attached to the stove- it belonged to my grandparents - they used it when cycle touring in the 50’s. It runs pretty well on white gas- not quite as smooth as your 123- but not bad for 70years! Thank you- really appreciate your uploads.
@Flinty Knicknacks If by "stuck", you mean the vaporizer is really tight, then, yup, they are supposed to be that way. The tube is attached to the stove with a tapered pipe joint. Question is... why do you feel you need to get in there? Unless the stove has been used with automotive gasoline for a long time and the wick is all fouled with it, there's probably no good reason to take it apart. The Svea 123R has a very stout valve body, so it's hard to mess that up. But, it's easy to break the tube on the 80 unless you have special jigs, tools, etc. These stoves only burn white gas, not alcohol. And, no, a conversion to alcohol will not work as the stove design won't support an alcohol conversion. Best route is to enjoy and care for your grandparents old stove using good quality naphtha (white gas) camp fuel as intended. 👍 BD
Thank you- I had a feeling it was Coleman fuel only. Was just hoping to go a bit ‘greener’. It would only ever have been run on naphtha- not petrol..would have been leaded then as well! 😬. I will leave well alone-I can see the wick - seems fine and runs pretty well. Is the 111 the only stove capable of running on alcohol? Bit of a lump for bicycle touring🥵! I have seen videos of people running MSR stoves on meths - but performance is a bit rubbish and it destroys the aluminium fuel bottle. Thank you so much for your advice and very clear informative videos.
@Flinty Knicknacks Trying to be "green" by worrying about your camp stove fuel is not the best use of your conservation efforts. You can get about 23 continuous hours hours of full blast flame burn time per gallon of Coleman fuel. That's using a stove like an 80 or 123R. More cooking time can be obtained if you are simmering. Simply driving a car or taking a bus to a trailhead will burn several gallons (or way more if in the USA) of gasoline. You're not going to save the world (or even make a tiny dent) by using an alcohol camping stove. That said... the Optimus 111T and 111C stoves can be converted to run alcohol. But! You'll need to carry a third *more* fuel if using alcohol with any stove since alcohol only has two-thirds the energy in it as white gas. (Maybe that's why the performance is rubbish with converted MSR stoves since there is so little heat value in alcohol.) Are there other pressurized stoves that can burn alcohol? Yes, but they are pretty rare collectibles. You'd be better off just getting a Trangia if you want to be green by burning alcohol on a bicycle trip. Or, if you want to be vintage... get a hold of an antique Turm Sport gravity fed alcohol stove. Check eBay and the like for those vintage ones. Make sure you burn pure ethanol, not methanol/ethanol blends or you'll lose even more energy since methanol is even less energetic. (And, don't forget, you'll need to carry more fuel on your bike if using alcohol.) BD
I'm working on an old Svea 123 and a much older I believe Primus stove...not sure because the tank on that one has absolutely no identifying markings or date stamps. It is perfectly smooth and the tank is much smaller diameter than the Svea. ?? Anyhow what would you say should I look for if gas leaks out through the vaporizer no matter where I turn the adjustment to? I used your 5 click method and can see the cleaning needle pop up all the way "open" but gas(liquid) continues leaking. :-( Really enjoy your videos....these stoves bring back my Boy Scout memories.
Hi Chris RUclips comments is not so good for this sort of problem-solving stuff. Best practice is to just drop me an email with a few photos of your mystery stove to: berniedawgstove@comcast.net I'll be happy to help you solve the problem(s) you are having via email. BD
Yes. But you should probably do it yourself. If it’s too hard for you to repair a Svea 123R with all the help I’ve given you and links I’ve provided in the description and at my webpage/other videos, then you should consider a more modern and no maintenance stove that runs on isobutane canisters.
@troyjenkins3886 Good man! You can do it! 👍👏 If you get stuck, there's an email address in the description box below most of my videos where you can get help for free. BD🐾
Excellent video, I bought one of these in the early 70s and it worked perfectly, but after mabey 4 years I thought it would be wise to rebuild it as they sold rebuilding kits where I bought it ( backpackers shoppe in I believe Avon, Ohio, it could be one of those other little cities in the area. It is still there but they don't sell the old parts anymore ), anyway I should have left it alone, but being young and curious I just had to take it apart. It had a large amount of blue thread sealed on it? Anyway after putting it all together, it works, but you can't adjust the flame or turn it off with the key, either let it burn out or smother it, I was so disappointed with myself, but after watching your video I will again attempt to get it right, ( I don't even remember the wick, it must have fallen inside? ) I also bought the pump kit so you could pump pressure instead of priming the stove. I still have the pump and it still seems to work, I can feel the pressure on my thumb when I pump it, but because of how the stove was acting I put the original cap back on. If for some reason I find it too difficult to fix, do you have a service of fixing, and what would it cost? Also if possible, would you know where I can purchase the cap that would allow me to use the pump again? I believe I still have some of the original parts, if I can't fix it, and you would be willing to undertake this operation I would send everything I have. Thanks again for a great video, I did not see the one where you took it apart? And if by chance I can fix it, would you know if the pressure cap is available? And where? Bobby Neuman
Pretty much the answer to your questions is yes. Just drop me a note at: berniedawgstove@comcast.net for the answers in detail and to arrange for service/rebuilding. The disassembly video is right here: ruclips.net/video/LNJSDacuCHQ/видео.html Best wishes on your stove work. BD
Can you safely burn diesel or kerosene in the newest Svea 123? I’m trying to assemble a the best combination of stoves or even just 1 that you recommend for hiking use and also for long term emergency use and would appreciate your suggestions So far I have bought an Emberlit Fireant Titanium stove, weighs only 3 ounces and can burn wood/esbit tabs/trangia alcohol and even tea light candles So all those fuels are covered, now I one or more stoves that use other fuels reliably with basic maintenance, specific stoves I am considering buying (but not all) are Soto Windmaster (purely ‘upright’ canister fuel but very light), Whisperlite Universal (upright canister simmering, inverted canister use but poor simmering, Kerosene and gasoline use in emergencies but poor simmering yet fairly reliable and easy to maintain), Optimus Polaris (same as whisperlite Universal but also marketed to burn diesel, no jets to loose as uses same jet for all fuels, has a simmering spindle but this allegedly increases risk of dirty and gunk building up in the fuel line (compared to whisperlite)but don’t yet understand how to reliably clean out the fuel line as easily as whisperlite universal), Primus Omnilite Ti (the lightest option for backpack carry, the Primus fuel bottles are relatively heavy though, has no shaker jet, would involve the most maintenance of burning liquid fuels in emergencies which is when I would mainly need to burn liquid fuels, fuel line is equally difficult to clean out as Optimus Polaris, many small parts that could easily be lost due to multiple jets for different fuels etc, pump is allegedly unreliable due to some reviews and possibly the least reliable of all the multi fuel stoves that burn canisters and liquids), MSR Dragon fly for involved cooking in long term emergencies (similarly reliable and easy to clean as Whisperlite Universal, only burns liquid fuels but is marketed to burn all liquid fuels except alcohol of course), SVEA 123 (similarly as light as Dragonfly, extremely reliable as few moving parts to fail or lose and no fuel line to clog up, marketed to only burn white gas and gasoline but not diesel or kerosene. I expect to buy the Soto Windmaster at the convenient/light/hiking canister fuel end of the spectrum, also the MSR Dragonfly at the long term emergency liquid fuel cooking end of the spectrum as although needing more maintenance than the SVEA 123 is still very simple to clean (the MSR XGK doesn’t simmer so Dragonfly simmer ability prefered), which leaves 1 of the other 3 multi fuel stoves as the choice I’m struggling to make, the Primus Omnilite Ti, the Whisperlite Universal or the Optimus Polaris? Would really appreciate your advice to avoid ‘buyers remorse’ as all these stoves would need to be purchased online as no stores in my area sell any of these stoves Thanks for any suggestions or corrections to my way of thinking here :)
@ImpermanentHuman No. White gas (aka Coleman fuel, aka naphtha) only. But, it's not a matter of safety. It's a matter of kerosene not being very volatile and not being able to: a) develop pressure in the stove, and, b) the tiny little brass stove not getting or staying hot enough to vaporize the kerosene. As to diesel... no small camping stove will vaporize or burn diesel fuel very well or at all. Too heavy a fuel. Too resistant to vaporizing. Burns (if at all) with a greasy, smoky flame. Clogs up your stove in no time at all. Check on RUclips how many people have videos where they are *successfully* burning diesel in a camping stove. The very few who show themselves trying to burn diesel are pretty comical and will give you a laugh and a half. If it actually worked (it doesn't), there'd be dozens of videos with clear blue flames racking up views and monetizing like crazy. 😄 BD
@@BernieDawgCinema wow you answered before I had time to edit my question :) thanks, but please read my extensive edit as I would really appreciate the help once again...but clearly diesel is waste of effort considering to burn 😆
Also in my area I can’t find Coleman white gas anywhere, so only Gasoline is going to be my ‘emergency’ liquid fuel, so my primary fuels are going to be canister gas, wood, alcohol and then Gasoline only for emergencies due excellent availability but expecting a lot of maintenance 🤔
@ImpermanentHuman Holy Smokes! I think this is well beyond what RUclips comments are designed to handle. For instance, neither of us can trade photos here. Please just drop an email to bd@berniedawg.com , my business stove helpline, for a response to all the questions and all the many ideas you have here. Thanks in advance! BD
Yes. I can cook. Thanks for asking! 😋😎 However, this is a stove channel. Do a search at RUclips for cooking channels. There are a lot of great cooking channels. BD
@Jon Jones Or... buy a replacement windshield ("cage-rack") here: www.base-camp.co.uk/Optimus.html Part number 2100. It'll look better than anything you are likely to build. Or, buy a SIGG Tourist cook kit to go with your windshield-less stove. Check eBay for those. Thousands of 'em were sold once upon a time. BD
My trusty Svea got "torched" on a recent camping trip, rendering it unusable. Rather than buy a new MSR stove or similar, I used your disassembly and reassembly videos - along with a new wick and cap gasket - to refurbish it to good-as-new condition. I love my old Svea, and it's now crankin' once again. Your videos are nicely done, with good humor thrown in. Thank you!!
@Madolin Thank you! And big applause to *you* for getting your old friend back up and running! 👏👏👍👍😎 BD
Thanks, Gary, for making this available again. It has to be one of the most requested and watched stove videos of all time. BradB
Thanks, Brad. I'm getting too old to remake it, so here it is the way it was. Enjoy your stoves!
Found my way here from CCS after a neighbor gifted me a complete, but beat up Optimus 88 including a Svea 123R...last used 48 years ago! The stove fired right up when I tested it, so I came here to see how everything fits so I can give it a tune up. Great video, man - love the banter.
Until watching this, I thought the valve stem was threaded left-handed...so the self-cleaning needle is likely seated way too deep, preventing the stove from shutting off!
Edit: Just pulled the jet off mine, and yep - by the method you showed, the self-cleaning rack was started NINE teeth left from the closed position! It would bottom out almost 120 degrees from closed, and "shut off" could only achieved by the needle plugging the jet's orifice from turning the stem full left...but of course it would "candle" for a while and then seep fuel once the flame got blown out.
Now it works like it always should have. Thanks for the informative video!
@VWAffe Thanks! Eleven years ago this video was first published here on RUclips and it's helped many, many people get their old stoves up and running correctly ever since. Glad I could help you and others. You can download a (free - no subscription required) manual for your Svea 123R from my website right here: www.berniedawg.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/optimus_123R_manual.pdf Keep the flame burning. 🔥👍BD
@@BernieDawgCinema just wanted to let you know I watched this tonight, June 16, 2024. Was having an issue shutting off the stove as maybe the needle is broke off. There is still a needle. But I was wondering if you could run by the needle adjustment again and another video
@karlfonner7589 ruclips.net/video/ay9iPwA5LRA/видео.html Remove your jet. Remove the cleaning needle by turning the spindle all the way counter-clockwise. Reinstall the jet. Try the stove. If it shuts off fine now, then you have an incorrectly set cleaning needle that is set too deep into the stove and won't allow the valve to close. Reinstall the needle higher (less clicks) in the stove. It may take you several tries to get it right.
If the stove doesn't shut off when you close the valve all the way clockwise with no cleaning needle in place, then you have debris keeping the cone of the spindle from seating OR you have a damaged spindle tip. Further work is needed to correct this.
On the other hand... if this is a new Svea 123R (purchased new sometime in the last ten years) it's probably just poor workmanship from the factory located in Asia where they are now made. Stick with vintage Swedish stoves instead of the poor quality new stoves now sold by Optimus/Katadyn.
Need even more help? Email to bd@berniedawg.com
BD
Thanks for putting this video up! I haven’t had my stove apart in years and needed a refresher. I also gained a bit of knowledge besides polishing up what I had!
@SheepDog 68 Fantastic! 👍 BD
the best stove ever on top of a mountain in a force 10 gale!! Got caught out once, weather report was wrong, Trangia blew out but this little baby worked a gem.....
Excellent! On the other hand, it is always camping best practice to come down a bit from the summit and find a sheltered spot with some amount of wind break to camp or cook. 👍 BD
I am working my way through all of your Svea 123 rebuild videos. I just "re-discovered" backpacking, and my old stove purchased in 1970. It has been in storage since the late 70's. I had always felt it should be rebuilt before I use it, but I was nervous about doing that until I found your videos. Thank you.
You're welcome! 👍 BD
Thanks Bernie. My old Svea is now running better than ever
Awesome! Glad it was a help. BD
9 years later and this is still a very helpful video. I picked up my first 123r and it was a big help. Still trying to find an earlier 123 but they are uncommon in my area.
@Wesley Blair Thanks! Correct info never goes out of date. Fwiw, I see five+ Svea 123(no R) stoves on eBay at this very moment. Unlikely you'll find them at garage sales and such this long since they went out of production. They'll never go down in price. BD
Thank you my 123R is up and running like a champ!
Great to hear! Glad the video helped. 👍 BD
Yeah, that pencil eraser trick and 4-5 click deal is ACE, mate!
I use a 123 now, but my OCD wouldn't let me alone with this 123R have owned for mumble-mumble years and it wasn't working right, it must have lost a click somewhere. Works as it should now. Thanks for the tutorial!
I think that in this cup of coffee was something stronger. Great video!
@lemon demon Nope. Just naturally fun-loving and playful. BD
Great strip down and build. Thanks again for sharing buddy!
@BigArch6564 Thanks! Hope it helps. BD
You made my day because when I watch videos like this I usually discover that I don't have the cool version of whatever the subject is. But I have the slanted one! Yeah!
No worries. You be cool! 👍 😎 BD
Def the best breakdown and assembly videos on this stove! Thanks
Wow, thanks!
ran some old petrol through mine. ran rough. pulled it apart a bit and ran worse thanks for the video i needed 4 clicks running good now and turns off properly
Success is good! Bravo! Glad I could be some small part of the success where you are. 👍 BD
@@BernieDawgCinema Australia hence the petrol and not gasoline. pulled apart an old 8r a while ago guess i just got lucky putting that needle thing in last time. I like petrol stoves can get that stuff anywhere
While gasoline (petrol) is found everywhere, todays RUG (regular unleaded gasoline) is nothing much at all like it was when your stoves were made. Todays gas has many more additives than in 1980 - additives which your stove just won't burn. Over time they'll bake into a sludge and foul your stove(s) since the stove(s) don't run hot enough to burn them. Plus, at least here in the USA, there's up to 10% ethanol in RUG which has lots less energy. Best thing to run in your stove(s) for their longest life, best burn and trouble-free performance is Coleman fuel, Crown fuel or other similar naphtha stove fuels. Sure, they cost more. But, unless you are living in the woods full time and your stoves are twice daily users, you'll likely spend more on petrol in your car to get the trailhead than you will spend on a whole years of stove fuel. 👍 BD
Great video. Just what I was looking for. I have a 123R but found a 123 in a scrap yard brass pile. Now I can rebuild it. Thanks Bernie Dawg.
Thanks Gary, it was very interesting video.
I didn´t know this kind of stoves used a wick.
Thank you Claudio. Although there are some exceptions, most self-pressurizing stoves will use a wick to draw the fuel into the burner. It's pretty cool that they work like that. Glad to help. BD
Thanks for this awesome video!
Hi Bernie. Any idea where to get a replacement graphite bushing for this stove? I'm assuming it would also work for the 123, which is what I need it for. Don't know if the comments section is the appropriate place for asking questions, but couldn't figure out any other way to do it.
@Harley Bootman Oops!! Don’t assume. If you have the Svea 123 (no R) then the spindle is much smaller in diameter, as is the spindle housing, than in the Svea 123R. The Svea 123R and 123(no R) graphites are not interchangeable. Completely different beasts. The tiny graphites for the 123(no R) are made of unobtanium and are mostly rebuilder duplicated by wrapping the shaft of the spindle with graphite tape. But, most folks don’t need to do that since they never actually removed the graphite on the no-R in the first place. Just tighten the no-R spindle nut and you should be good to go in that case. You can get parts in the USA from spinnakerspar. He’s an eBay seller of stove parts and there is a link to him in my Stove Parts Links webpage. The link to that webpage is just below this video in the description box. Lots of other helpful part suppliers at the parts webpage, too. BD
Thanks. This video helped
Glad it helped
Could the coffee and shaking hand be connected?🤔 We may never know😊 Thank you for a fantastic video.
@MrMrBiggles Nope. Not drinking coffee makes no difference. That's because it's a thang called "Essential Tremor" - like Parkinsons, but different. (It still sucks, though). www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/essential-tremor/symptoms-causes/syc-20350534 You're welcome on the video. BD
Nice video👍,i have a juwel 33 i have to fix
Good luck!
watched your video on putting new gaskets in my optimus stoves Where can I get the blue Vicom gaskets you showed . I have 45's , 48's 123's , 00's and 111's from my days as a wilderness outfitter. They date back to the 70's and 80's when I was a wilderness trip leader. I used to get my replacement parts from a guy in LA.
The seventies and eighties were 30-40 years ago now. If the fellow in LA you used to get parts from is the one I think he is, I sadly believe he may have passed away. Ebay is the place that's easiest to get gaskets and seals. Just do an eBay search on "Svea stove seals gaskets" and you will get several USA sellers. Or, order parts from Base-Camp in the UK if they still have any remaining and you don't mind the shipping cost and fulfillment lag time. But, even Base-Camp is running short of many items after all these years. The blue Viton gaskets I use in my videos are ones I cut myself from Viton sheet I buy on... yep, eBay. I bought sets of Mayhew concentric hollow punches to cut them with. I make my own seals for stoves I'm repairing or restoring for clients, but I'm not in the business of making/selling gaskets and seals beyond that. Sorry. Metal parts like spindles, jets and the like are also being made as quality reproduction parts by folks in Taiwan, Hong Kong, S. Korea and Japan. Again, eBay is the place to check for these. If you need stove repairs done beyond simple gasket changing or need more help, drop me an email: berniedawgstove@comcast.net BD
I've had a Pak Cook 235 for over 40 years, all this time I thought it was a 123. When on a backpacking trip (25? years ago) it started to burn out through the spindle. I didn't know enough about it to try to repair it but after watching your videos I'm inspired to try. My question; is the graphite packing interchangeable with the Svea? It doesn't look like it's coming apart, I'm going to try it as is but if it still won't seal can I use the 2094?
So, 45 minutes after my last post, rebuild is done & tested. Works great! To think that I could have still been using it all this time... Had a friend give me his older Peak 1 model 400, used it for a few years, then bought a Peak 1 #3024, used it for several years. Currently using a Jetboil Flash, but I'll never give up my old "Svea"! Hope my son will appreciate it...😉
@Gary Dahle Wow! Great Job, there, Gary Dahle! Sorry I had some other life-things going and didn't respond immediately when you posted your comment. Glad you got everything worked out and all is well with your Pak Cook. Success feels goooood. 👍😎 BD
Hey Gary, did you use a graphite strip or were you able to find a graphite seal that was the right diameter. I see stuff for sale, but they're strips you cut up. Thanks.
Is the wick just everyday string ?
Not really. It's thick, large diameter 100% cotton cordage as found on 100% cotton floor mop heads. Use synthetic blend cord and the wick will melt into goo inside the stove body. Yuck. BD
@Lorin-GabrielLeaua-fm1lw Asbestos is a controlled substance banned in most parts of the world due to its health effects. Don’t think you can still buy it and it would be foolish to handle it. Original stove wicks were made of spun mineral fiber. That’s a good safe replacement if you can find it in cord form. But, the 100% cotton wick I show in my videos is a good substitute that is accessible to normal people in our modern world. Try it and see. BD
Good job on the 1 & 2 videos. I didn't see you dig into the pressure relief valve on the filler cap. I just purchased a Svea 123r and wondering if this valve needs maintenance. I can't find a tool bit to fit the pentagon hole? Do you have any suggestions?
Thanks, Chris Culp. The SRV and pumpable SRV fuel caps are the subject of another two-part video pair which you can find here:
ruclips.net/video/d6SEE1ToCSQ/видео.html and here: ruclips.net/video/a0BRBzuN0g8/видео.html
I build custom SRV Penta-Wrenches from scratch. Contact me at berniedawgstove@comcast.net to find out more.
Hi Berniedawg, thanks for all the great videos on the svea123r. I'm having an issue with mine since I bought it new. I had it go from priming to lighting itself which I fixed by retiming the cleaning needle. However I only get a positive shut off.. 10% of the time. It candles for a while. I took out the spindle cleaned the mating surfaces and inspected for any scoring still does it. Debating on picking up a rebuild kit and throwing a new spindle in. Any advice? Also thinking of wrapping the threads with some pink Teflon tape (the one for gas and propane lines). Thanks!
@Christopher Patterson Thanks for your note. There are too many issues here to cover all this in a RUclips comment or to have a running exchange in RUclips comments. I maintain a free "help line" at my business email address. Let's just move this discussion there, please. Thanks! 👍😎 bd@berniedawg.com Talk to you soon. BD
When replacing the wick on a slant key, do I reinstall the brass screen around the wick or can I leave it out?
Well... I reckon if it came with one in there, it's the right thing to do to put it back. That makes it like it came from the factory for the next guy. Having it there won't hurt anything and may improve the performance. (Or, at least the makers thought so by putting one in in the first place.) But, it's your stove... and you can do as you like. 👍 (Fwiw, I always put parts back if they were there already. Maybe just me?) BD
Good video!
Thanks! BD
Mine is not turning completely off, a tiny tiny flame still there. Tried different clicks on the needle. Have to use quite much force on the key..
You have probably distorted what should be a smooth cone shape on the end of the spindle by using too much force. Brass is soft. More force is not the answer. Pull the spindle out and see if there is a step on the spindle cone. If so, you can spin the spindle in a drill or lathe and try to clean up the cone face with a file or sandpaper while spinning it OR you might just want to get a new spindle to replace it. Base-Camp in England has them. You can find their address on my webpage of stove part suppliers here: www.berniedawg.com/stove-part-supplier-links/ BD
@@BernieDawgCinema Wow, thanks Bernie for your quick and very helpful advice! I will for sure try that out. Thanks for making these videos - it is such a valuable contribution to all of us who are hooked on blue flames !!
You are most welcome! Blue flames! Lots of fun without divorce or jail time! 😄 👍 BD
Cool stuff.
Hello. What kind of gasket or sealing material is in the valve? Mine is leaking too badly.
@Bert Heideveld The spindle packing around the spindle is made of a compressed graphite. You can get the spindle packings here as Optimus part number 2094: www.base-camp.co.uk/Optimus.html
And look at the stove diagram here: www.base-camp.co.uk/exploded%20views/Optimus/123R%20Svea-Climber.htm
You can also use a pure graphite ribbon to wrap your own graphite spindle packings. Material specs and how to do that is beyond the scope of RUclips comments. Contact me via email for that. BD
@@BernieDawgCinema Please look here. ruclips.net/video/InHbXT1zNAU/видео.html
Great tutorials Bernie thank you. I just got two Svea 123R in a trash to treasure day in my town...guy was tossing them out. I watched your turtorials and had to rebuild one. Luckily the box the stoves came in had a complete rebuild kit too. A question please. The graphite packing that goes on the spindle....do you simply take it from the package and place it over the shaft, or unravel it and wrap it. I hope I did it right by just slipping it on over the shaft, but there appears to be paper in between the graphite tape like material. Thank you
If you have the graphite tape material with the paper backing... I remove the paper backing and tightly wrap the spindle shaft with the graphite ribbon. There is usually an adhesive on the back of the graphite ribbon that makes this no so hard to do. If you feel the ribbon is too wide, you can always fold it in half lengthwise as you wrap it around the shaft.The spindle nut will mash the graphite ribbon you've wrapped around the spindle shaft into a nice compressed block when you thread it down into the valve body. Hope that helps.
OK thanks...Dam !!! thought I just slid it onto the shaft. Might have really mucked that up. Do you use the entire roll or just a short section. Crap.....
I have my own roll of graphite tape and I cut lengths from that when I need graphite tape. I've not bought the stuff from the guy on eBay you bought it from, so I don't really know how much you get. I'd suggest using as much of the graphite tape as you can get around the spindle shaft and in the spindle housing as it crushes down pretty small. The paper backing will get pretty hot and will likely burn and cause you leaks and stuff. If you need more help with this, just drop me an email at: berniedawgstove@comcast.net Thanks!
Bernie Dude,
Hey, I have a older 123 and am trying to reassemble it. I have cleaned it, put on new tank gasket and just watched you showing the valve reassemble. The kit I got contains theses little round solid gaskets and I don’t know if they go to this stove or a different one. I also replaced the wick. Do you have any ideas or is there only the tank gasket?
Thanks,
Brad
The "little round solid gaskets" are probably pips for the SRV (safety release valve) fuel cap. Take a look at the fuel cap video here and you'll see what that's about and whether those are SRV pips that you have there. ruclips.net/video/d6SEE1ToCSQ/видео.html BD
Where did you get the CLEANING "PIN" my stove is old....given to me and it did not have the tool. Mine is an original 123.....???
If you mean the cleaning needle/rack in the Svea 123R, the stove comes with it and yours should, too. If you messed yours up and you need a new one, you can get one through Base-Camp in the UK. Just use the link for my Parts Suppliers at my webpage: www.berniedawg.com/stove-part-supplier-links/ BD
@BernieDawgCinema
Dude, just found the links and just ordered all the repair gaskets I need
Thank you for responding
@MARKIEBANUNCE Looked at some of your videos. You have a Svea 123 (no R) stove. So... you can use a high E string off your guitar to clean the jet since there is no built-in cleaning needle. You can make a handle for the short section of guitar string by using a slip of aluminum from a beer can. Crimp the string in one end and you are good to go as long as you don't do it while the stove is burning. Roofing sheet metal can be used for the same handle if you want one for use with the flame going. BD
@BernieDawgCinema
Right on Man.
Thanks for looking out
Hi, Great video! I need help. I have put new parts in my 123 but after pre-heating there is almost no air/whitegas mix coming out of the burner head.
I have replaced all essencial parts. I gave the needle 5 clicks. What can i do to get it runnin? Thanx!
@Jan Vink You should remove the cleaning needle and try the stove without it to make sure the way you’ve set it is not the problem. If the stove was ever used with automobile gasoline, then the passage from the jet to the tank may be clogged with auto gasoline sludge. You can clear that with a thin wire or guitar string. But, if you haven’t rebuilt the fuel cap entirely (I have another video for that), then you probably aren’t developing pressure as you have a pressure leak in the SRV (safety release valve) of the fuel cap. That’s about all we can do in comments at RUclips. For more help beyond this brief note in a severely limited text-only format, just send an email to my help address here: bd@berniedawg.com We’ll get you fixed up and running right. 👍 BD
@@BernieDawgCinema I am going to check it. Thanx so much for your quick answer!
@@BernieDawgCinema there is no sludge in the passage from the jet to the tank. So it must be the SRV. Where can i buy these in Europe?
@Jan Vink If you want to buy a new fuel cap, try Base-Camp in England. If you want to rebuild the fuel cap with new seals, you can get the cap seal from Base-Camp, but will have to buy the SRV pip from someone like eBay's spinnakerspar in the USA. Links to these vendors and many more are at my links page at my website here: www.berniedawg.com/stove-part-supplier-links/
My Optimus/Svea fuel cap rebuilding video is right here: ruclips.net/video/d6SEE1ToCSQ/видео.html BD
Hi there, I may have mentioned I have a Number 7 cooker [a version made for the British armed forces] it's based on the Svea 123R. mine works, but in reverse! when rotated to the right it's full flame, it lowers when turned to the left [anti/counter clockwise] it goes off when the cleaning pin pops out. what would be your advise to correct it? Thanks in advance!
@473specop I have a BM #7, too. It works just like a regular stove is supposed to. = Off when fully to the right, big flame in the middle, cleaning needle extends out when fully to the left. Yours sounds like the cleaning needle is set too low. Remove the cleaning needle. Before you reinsert it, try the stove without it. You should now find it shuts off turning to the right like it's supposed to. Now, reset the needle in the stove as I show in my video and try it again. If the needle is set properly, the stove should now work as intended. Rewatch the video here to see how to do this correctly.. If it doesn't shut off, reset the needle higher (fewer clicks). Try it until you get it right. Usually takes newbies a few tries. Be patient. You can do it. Good luck! BD
@@BernieDawgCinema Thank you so much for your advice, I'll do as you advise, thanks again!
@472specop You betcha! And if you need additional help or run into difficulties, it's easy enough to send an email to: bd@berniedawg.com where I can trade photos with you that show what I'm talking about probably better than my words. BD
@@BernieDawgCinema Hi again, well after much fiddling around with 'clicks' it seems I've seated the cleaning needle correctly, I've used it a few times today, Pre-heated and then for the first time in years; ignition, a good flame and it turns off promptly. So a big thank-you from me for your help, Cheers!
@473specop Excellent news! I'm glad I could be of assistance. Have fun! BD
Hi just tuned into your videos can I use denatured alcohol in the sve 123 instead of Colman fuel thanks
Wouldn't it be cool if you could use denatured alcohol in a Svea 123? But, you can't. It won't work. Alcohol mixes with air at a completely different ratio than white gas (Coleman fuel, aka naphtha).
White gas is the ONLY fuel you should use in a Svea 123/123R.
Avoid RUG (regular unleaded gasoline), too, as modern formulations of RUG are nothing at all like they were back when these stoves were invented by Swedes. RUG will cause clogging and sooting. I know! RUG-clogged Svea 123/123Rs bring me lots of $$$ when I end up repairing them for clients. 🙂 BD
Just got my new stove today could not keep it on longer then 10 seconds, bright blue flames when on but then makes noise and turns off.
@Maricela Quintero The Svea 123R has been sold for over sixty years and there are millions of successfully running stoves and millions of happy owners out there. While vintage models tend to work better than the made-in-Taiwan new stoves, if you are having trouble it is almost certainly a user issue rather than a stove issue. (IE - your problem not doing things right, not the stove.) Make sure to read the instructions to learn how to run the stove properly and watch my videos on how to light and run the stove. If it still doesn't work for you: bd@berniedawg.com 👍 BD
Could you please tell me what size adjustable wrench you were using in the video
If you mean the one that appears at 12:45 in the video, that is a BAHCO #9029 6" adjustable wrench. I bought it originally mostly just for the BAHCO name. But, it's a really nice wrench whose jaws hold true parallel. The short length helps to avoid over-torquing. Shop around for the best price as one vendor at Amazon is charging almost $50 and that's too high. BD
Thanks so much - hope to see more videos like this one.
I really enjoy your videos but the am trying to find some other info on a Primus 17 it lights has a nice blue flame but blows itself out after about 30 to 40 seconds. Thank you for any help
Could be a Radius 17, or a Monitor 17B, or even a Primus 107? Primus 17 is not a stove that was made unless you've the first ever found. Send some photos to my email in the description box and I can help you figure the number and why it burns as it does. BD
Hi I recently bought a Svea 123 it appears a bit simpler to
deal with. I have not filled it yet but it seems that the only
Issue it might have that I don't know how to repair is a leak
in the fuel valve. could you dismantle one and show
maintenance procedures ? I have not been able to find
a video that shows this repair being done. Thank you for
your time and great videos.
Most of the time just tightening the spindle nut on a Svea 123 or 123R will correct any leakage at the spindle. If you need to replace the worn graphite packing on a Svea 123, (not R), eBay seller "spinnakerspar" both sells graphite tape to remake the packing, and includes a tutorial in their listing how to use it. It's inexpensive and pretty easy. BD
I found you after I rebuilt my 8r; my second fav is a peak 1, any info on a rebuild for that sweet stove?
@IthinkthereforeIam OrsoIthought Thanks! The Coleman Peak 1 is well-documented for rebuilding on RUclips and at the Coleman Collectors Forum already. Any video I would do would just be rehashing what is already available and done well. No reason to reinvent the wheel, I reckon. Try some more searching and you should be able get some good information on rebuilding this stove. Good luck and happy camping! BD
Thank you! does it work good with bensin/petrol?
@Ma Ni These worked well with automobile gasoline 50 years ago. Today auto gasoline is very different than back 50 years ago. Todays auto gasoline will clog them up pretty fast. Use Coleman fuel, naphtha, MSR Superfuel, Aspen 4T, or Shellite today. Do not use with regular unleaded gasoline for automobiles in these stoves. 👍 BD
@@BernieDawgCinema Thank you!
I have an 80 that I would like to fettle a bit- but the vaporiser tube is stuck. Do you have any top tips to get it out- or is it just brute force? Being very cautious- don’t want to squash the tank! Also....would it be possible to run it on alcohol? I know it would need a larger jet- .5mm seems to be the right size- would I need to do anything else? I’m very attached to the stove- it belonged to my grandparents - they used it when cycle touring in the 50’s. It runs pretty well on white gas- not quite as smooth as your 123- but not bad for 70years! Thank you- really appreciate your uploads.
@Flinty Knicknacks If by "stuck", you mean the vaporizer is really tight, then, yup, they are supposed to be that way. The tube is attached to the stove with a tapered pipe joint. Question is... why do you feel you need to get in there? Unless the stove has been used with automotive gasoline for a long time and the wick is all fouled with it, there's probably no good reason to take it apart. The Svea 123R has a very stout valve body, so it's hard to mess that up. But, it's easy to break the tube on the 80 unless you have special jigs, tools, etc. These stoves only burn white gas, not alcohol. And, no, a conversion to alcohol will not work as the stove design won't support an alcohol conversion. Best route is to enjoy and care for your grandparents old stove using good quality naphtha (white gas) camp fuel as intended. 👍 BD
Thank you- I had a feeling it was Coleman fuel only. Was just hoping to go a bit ‘greener’. It would only ever have been run on naphtha- not petrol..would have been leaded then as well! 😬. I will leave well alone-I can see the wick - seems fine and runs pretty well. Is the 111 the only stove capable of running on alcohol? Bit of a lump for bicycle touring🥵! I have seen videos of people running MSR stoves on meths - but performance is a bit rubbish and it destroys the aluminium fuel bottle. Thank you so much for your advice and very clear informative videos.
@Flinty Knicknacks Trying to be "green" by worrying about your camp stove fuel is not the best use of your conservation efforts. You can get about 23 continuous hours hours of full blast flame burn time per gallon of Coleman fuel. That's using a stove like an 80 or 123R. More cooking time can be obtained if you are simmering. Simply driving a car or taking a bus to a trailhead will burn several gallons (or way more if in the USA) of gasoline. You're not going to save the world (or even make a tiny dent) by using an alcohol camping stove. That said... the Optimus 111T and 111C stoves can be converted to run alcohol. But! You'll need to carry a third *more* fuel if using alcohol with any stove since alcohol only has two-thirds the energy in it as white gas. (Maybe that's why the performance is rubbish with converted MSR stoves since there is so little heat value in alcohol.) Are there other pressurized stoves that can burn alcohol? Yes, but they are pretty rare collectibles. You'd be better off just getting a Trangia if you want to be green by burning alcohol on a bicycle trip. Or, if you want to be vintage... get a hold of an antique Turm Sport gravity fed alcohol stove. Check eBay and the like for those vintage ones. Make sure you burn pure ethanol, not methanol/ethanol blends or you'll lose even more energy since methanol is even less energetic. (And, don't forget, you'll need to carry more fuel on your bike if using alcohol.) BD
I'm working on an old Svea 123 and a much older I believe Primus stove...not sure because the tank on that one has absolutely no identifying markings or date stamps. It is perfectly smooth and the tank is much smaller diameter than the Svea. ?? Anyhow what would you say should I look for if gas leaks out through the vaporizer no matter where I turn the adjustment to? I used your 5 click method and can see the cleaning needle pop up all the way "open" but gas(liquid) continues leaking. :-( Really enjoy your videos....these stoves bring back my Boy Scout memories.
Hi Chris RUclips comments is not so good for this sort of problem-solving stuff. Best practice is to just drop me an email with a few photos of your mystery stove to:
berniedawgstove@comcast.net
I'll be happy to help you solve the problem(s) you are having via email. BD
Do you know of anybody who a person could send one of the old stoves to for repair and service?
Yes. But you should probably do it yourself. If it’s too hard for you to repair a Svea 123R with all the help I’ve given you and links I’ve provided in the description and at my webpage/other videos, then you should consider a more modern and no maintenance stove that runs on isobutane canisters.
@@BernieDawgCinema lol I think i will work on it myself.Thanks for the reply and the helpful videos.
@troyjenkins3886 Good man! You can do it! 👍👏 If you get stuck, there's an email address in the description box below most of my videos where you can get help for free. BD🐾
Excellent video, I bought one of these in the early 70s and it worked perfectly, but after mabey 4 years I thought it would be wise to rebuild it as they sold rebuilding kits where I bought it ( backpackers shoppe in I believe Avon, Ohio, it could be one of those other little cities in the area. It is still there but they don't sell the old parts anymore ), anyway I should have left it alone, but being young and curious I just had to take it apart. It had a large amount of blue thread sealed on it? Anyway after putting it all together, it works, but you can't adjust the flame or turn it off with the key, either let it burn out or smother it, I was so disappointed with myself, but after watching your video I will again attempt to get it right, ( I don't even remember the wick, it must have fallen inside? ) I also bought the pump kit so you could pump pressure instead of priming the stove. I still have the pump and it still seems to work, I can feel the pressure on my thumb when I pump it, but because of how the stove was acting I put the original cap back on. If for some reason I find it too difficult to fix, do you have a service of fixing, and what would it cost? Also if possible, would you know where I can purchase the cap that would allow me to use the pump again? I believe I still have some of the original parts, if I can't fix it, and you would be willing to undertake this operation I would send everything I have. Thanks again for a great video, I did not see the one where you took it apart? And if by chance I can fix it, would you know if the pressure cap is available? And where? Bobby Neuman
Pretty much the answer to your questions is yes. Just drop me a note at: berniedawgstove@comcast.net for the answers in detail and to arrange for service/rebuilding. The disassembly video is right here: ruclips.net/video/LNJSDacuCHQ/видео.html Best wishes on your stove work. BD
Can you safely burn diesel or kerosene in the newest Svea 123?
I’m trying to assemble a the best combination of stoves or even just 1 that you recommend for hiking use and also for long term emergency use and would appreciate your suggestions
So far I have bought an Emberlit Fireant Titanium stove, weighs only 3 ounces and can burn wood/esbit tabs/trangia alcohol and even tea light candles
So all those fuels are covered, now I one or more stoves that use other fuels reliably with basic maintenance, specific stoves I am considering buying (but not all) are Soto Windmaster (purely ‘upright’ canister fuel but very light), Whisperlite Universal (upright canister simmering, inverted canister use but poor simmering, Kerosene and gasoline use in emergencies but poor simmering yet fairly reliable and easy to maintain), Optimus Polaris (same as whisperlite Universal but also marketed to burn diesel, no jets to loose as uses same jet for all fuels, has a simmering spindle but this allegedly increases risk of dirty and gunk building up in the fuel line (compared to whisperlite)but don’t yet understand how to reliably clean out the fuel line as easily as whisperlite universal), Primus Omnilite Ti (the lightest option for backpack carry, the Primus fuel bottles are relatively heavy though, has no shaker jet, would involve the most maintenance of burning liquid fuels in emergencies which is when I would mainly need to burn liquid fuels, fuel line is equally difficult to clean out as Optimus Polaris, many small parts that could easily be lost due to multiple jets for different fuels etc, pump is allegedly unreliable due to some reviews and possibly the least reliable of all the multi fuel stoves that burn canisters and liquids), MSR Dragon fly for involved cooking in long term emergencies (similarly reliable and easy to clean as Whisperlite Universal, only burns liquid fuels but is marketed to burn all liquid fuels except alcohol of course), SVEA 123 (similarly as light as Dragonfly, extremely reliable as few moving parts to fail or lose and no fuel line to clog up, marketed to only burn white gas and gasoline but not diesel or kerosene.
I expect to buy the Soto Windmaster at the convenient/light/hiking canister fuel end of the spectrum, also the MSR Dragonfly at the long term emergency liquid fuel cooking end of the spectrum as although needing more maintenance than the SVEA 123 is still very simple to clean (the MSR XGK doesn’t simmer so Dragonfly simmer ability prefered), which leaves 1 of the other 3 multi fuel stoves as the choice I’m struggling to make, the Primus Omnilite Ti, the Whisperlite Universal or the Optimus Polaris? Would really appreciate your advice to avoid ‘buyers remorse’ as all these stoves would need to be purchased online as no stores in my area sell any of these stoves
Thanks for any suggestions or corrections to my way of thinking here :)
@ImpermanentHuman No. White gas (aka Coleman fuel, aka naphtha) only. But, it's not a matter of safety. It's a matter of kerosene not being very volatile and not being able to: a) develop pressure in the stove, and, b) the tiny little brass stove not getting or staying hot enough to vaporize the kerosene. As to diesel... no small camping stove will vaporize or burn diesel fuel very well or at all. Too heavy a fuel. Too resistant to vaporizing. Burns (if at all) with a greasy, smoky flame. Clogs up your stove in no time at all. Check on RUclips how many people have videos where they are *successfully* burning diesel in a camping stove. The very few who show themselves trying to burn diesel are pretty comical and will give you a laugh and a half. If it actually worked (it doesn't), there'd be dozens of videos with clear blue flames racking up views and monetizing like crazy. 😄 BD
@@BernieDawgCinema wow you answered before I had time to edit my question :) thanks, but please read my extensive edit as I would really appreciate the help once again...but clearly diesel is waste of effort considering to burn 😆
Also in my area I can’t find Coleman white gas anywhere, so only Gasoline is going to be my ‘emergency’ liquid fuel, so my primary fuels are going to be canister gas, wood, alcohol and then Gasoline only for emergencies due excellent availability but expecting a lot of maintenance 🤔
@ImpermanentHuman Holy Smokes! I think this is well beyond what RUclips comments are designed to handle. For instance, neither of us can trade photos here. Please just drop an email to bd@berniedawg.com , my business stove helpline, for a response to all the questions and all the many ideas you have here. Thanks in advance! BD
Is that irony, the lid on the anti seize tin is stuck on
Forest vs trees.
ممتاز
شكرا لك BD
Que combustible usa ese modelo nafta,gasoil o querosen ?? saludos desde Montevideo URUGUAY 🇺🇾
@Luis Papek Hola de los Estados Unidos. Solo use nafta en estas pequeñas estufas. ¡Disfrutar! BD
@@BernieDawgCinema OK,muy amable gracias.😀😀
Can you cook 8Quert
Yes. I can cook. Thanks for asking! 😋😎 However, this is a stove channel. Do a search at RUclips for cooking channels. There are a lot of great cooking channels. BD
Awesome, it now could I BUILD a cage-rack to slip over it?...(that's where I am...lol)
@Jon Jones Or... buy a replacement windshield ("cage-rack") here: www.base-camp.co.uk/Optimus.html Part number 2100. It'll look better than anything you are likely to build. Or, buy a SIGG Tourist cook kit to go with your windshield-less stove. Check eBay for those. Thousands of 'em were sold once upon a time. BD
Thank you sir!!!...(love your work!)
You're welcome and thanks! BD
Things really got out of control at the end...
Carbon-monoxide-induced stove madness. 😁
BernieDawg Cinema hahah! Is that you selling the T58-2 on eBay? I want that stove, but not for $1000+. Hahah
@@jeromebullard6123 Nope. That one's not mine. BD
نريد مكنه نريد بريموس
@abd abd أي بريموس تريد؟
نريد قطعه
@abd abd ماذا تريد ان تقطع؟ ليس رأسي آمل! 🙏 BD