Great vid keep em coming. I've heard about the earplugs in the diff and I was like what the hell are earplugs going to do🤔🤔🤔🤔. Wasn't until I watched this wrenching vid it clicked, I was thinking of the foam earplugs 😫😫😫😫
It's an easy thing to do. At first, when I heard of the idea, I thought the same, but after looking around it clicked for me. Thanks for the comment. AJ
I love that you factor in the cost of the maintenance on these cars, and some common sense alternatives. I just don't see that on other channels, please keep that up! Like grease, a lot of these companies like to upsell grease, at crazy prices! Cow RC comes to mind, at the end of the day, it's just grease. I can get a can of Red n' Tacky at the auto parts store for a fraction of the money I would pay for a few ounces of Udder Butter
I keep a bottle of 500 k and silicone earplugs mix the two and get the mix I’m comfortable with... like to get it almost locked but with some play ... great for all around bash ... I don’t drive my RCs to destroy them just to enjoy them ... thanks for the great info...👍👍👍
You may be able to help me. I'm a basher with a 6s Mojave all off-road. I ordered a locker spool foe the rear but may have messed up? Don't think I will like (after watching too many vids🤣) Can I just put the locker in the center and maybe run 1million in rear and 500k front? Thanks.
Great example for the use of silicon earplugs. I never really put a cost to the diff oils and compared that to the earplugs. I personally haven’t dabbled in the use of ear plugs in the diffs but have heard of many people using them like yourself. I’m currently satisfied using different oils for bashing but since I don’t race yet I don’t really need such a stiff rear diff
Correct, the ear plugs do work for many situations, but using the right diff oils is actually the better way to go; if you can afford it. Being a tinkerer at heart, I like being able to dabble in these kinds of experiments. I'm glad you saw the value in trying such a path. AJ
OMG With only this one video u made me to subscribe to yr channel. What a great explanation!! And I love your way of express the stuff!!!! Thx for being there man!!!
The Lucas white lithium grease I just started using it and man that is some freaking awesome stuff thanks for the advice AJ keep doing what you doing God bless you.
It is a bit out, as we are upgrading the studio and workshop at the moment. But as soon as we get space setup, the vid will be coming. Shouldn't be long. AJ
Hey, guys, just to let you know, we do have a Typhon 6s Brutal Review heading your way, but it may be a bit before we post it. So hang in there and I hope you Subscribe.
I've been working on diffs my whole life my grandpa started the business 100 years ago and my father took over and now my father has taught me everything so I was thinking I could start making diff parts for RC cars. We have been making differential parts for cars for 50 years and I am into the RC hobby so it would be a good thing to start making differential parts on all these machines we have. If you have any ideas of what we could make stronger let me know. I have a workshop in Australia full of manual and CNC machines
I had a thought on that. The Losi Lasernut and the DB Pro for that matter, both suffer from an ill designed center diff. If you could build a replacement for those rigs but offer several variants such as selling it dry, or giving the customer the choice of having the diff shipped with whatever weight oil they choose, might be an avenue to start with. Also, building slippers for the center diff cars that are adjustable, that too might be a huge market to get into. For example, placing a slipper into my Arrma 6s cars would definitely be something I would like to try. Along those lines, marketing the shims for purchase would be a great thing. More people than I care to mention have no idea where to locate the correct shims for their particular vehicles. Would it be possible to put together a shim pack with various shims? That too might be an avenue worth pursuing. Thanks for asking.
@@AJJAMStudios well I have made steel parts for my jlb cheetah. So I could make any parts for any RC car if you need me to. And yes I could make shims up if you need.
Excellent video man. I don't own a Typhon but I know more about them now. And this helped me decide to use silicon ear plugs to tighten the diffs in my Tamiya TXT-1, which has non-sealed open diffs, to be more of an all rounder in bashing and crawling. Thanks!
I used the suspension, arm and shafts from the Mojave and it came very good and very strong also the I used limited slip diff in the center I am also to put one in the front although while you start purchasing parts it get expensive job!
Yes its my freind using this metode like you bro But he dont giving me this metode ar seecret Now you ar answer me what i serching in 5 years bro Thanks so much
FWIW, fluid dynamics dictate you must account for any mechanical items plus fluid volume, (in this case, earplugs are technically a fluid), in order to not overfill your vessel. That sun gear displaces more than you think, and ideally, you don’t want to be pushing that ring gear down that much, as all the pressure will be transferred to the path of least resistance. Take a little more fluid out, make sure the sun gear and ring gear sit perfectly on the case, screw it up, then weigh it.
Hi AJ, I watch and like all your videos, you’re great and very smart. I want to get that wheelie bar you have on this Typhon 6s for mine can you post a link or give me a some more info on it please thank you pal… keep up the awesome content 👍
@AJ... if I'm starting with a clean diff, I'm assuming I have to add in some diff oil then then the ear plugs. What weight and how much diff oil should I start with? Like 10k and 1/4 of the diff cup? Thanks. Best explanation on the ear plugs I've seen yet. I've only seen guys using them in the center diff.
I find the stock oil works just fine. You can tune it from there. Remember, as you add plug pieces it will force the oil out, so 50% full should do, but if you are just adding a little resistance you might want a bit more. As you add pieces the silicone will displace the appropriate amount of oil. Small pieces of silicone seem to work best. In the video you saw me more or less locking mine up, so begin slowly and add small chunks. This allows the gears to integrate the plugs properly. Also, take the time to work the diff so the mixture is even. Best of luck. I hope it works to your satisfaction. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios Thanks AJ. Starting with a clean diff. No oil. But I do have 3 bottles lying around. 10k, 30k, and 50k. Ordering the ear plugs now. Actually $9.99 for 18 pairs.
@@AJJAMStudios Ended up snapping my pins behind sun gears into 3 pieces, so I completely cleaned out my diff cup. Doing the McMaster Carr tool steel pin upgrade.
Great vid. I noticed on my TT pro, when I put the 500k in my centre diff I started to strip my hexes alot. Possibly also because I increased the punch too much and run road tyres on tarmac mostly out fromt of my house. I am going back to 100k centre diff fluid and and also going to try thicker hexes also to grab more wheel. Anything you can suggest to help me stop stripping hexes and wasting my wheels.
Are you using stock drive shafts? If so that probably won’t hold up for very long, I get the idea but I’d try using red n tacky with the diff packed Full. Great video!
Hello, another great video. the silicone ear plugs you use, do you need to be looking for a specific type, or just any soft moldable silicone ear plug will work?
Really like your channel. Because of covid 19 outbreak in Vietnam, I can’t get the diff oil. So is this ok if I use motorcycle oil to substitute for the silicone diff oil?
It is worth a try. Worst case, it may not work as well, but all you would have to do is clean it out if it doesn’t. I would try it. It sounds like fun to me. Thanks for asking. AJ
Earplugs are way how to make Typhon undriveable tank on rc track. For bash, it does not matter. But for serious handling, some proper oils has to be inside. For example 20/30/10K. Depend on the track.
Your videos are the best, really informative. Can you do this to the EXB LSD? Or would you need to convert it to an open diff first with the shim kit? Was just wondering after what you said about the Mojave on the block vid, with having it set up open diff. Seems to be very high maintenance with the LSD, cheers
@@AJJAMStudios Thanks for the info, what would you suggest is the best option for EXB Mojave after having run your one for a while? Also do you know if its possible to run a standard diff from the RTR BLX Mojave in the EXB, or do you just have to go the shim kit route? Cheers
Hi Ajay - QUESTION: Ive bought a new V5 Typhon and also a new Hobbywing EzRun Max6 4985SL 1650Kv Brushless 160A Motor and ESC Combo. Running a 21T Pinion, Stock Spur... To get her to handle well, ( like driving, not jumping ) Would you still recommend these Oil weights bro? or Something different to try? Thanks buddy.
try some nlgi4 (not waterpump grease) high temp grease or 5 if you can find it, its like wax and will thicken the faster the gears move, would proably give a much better result. open (ish) at low speed locked at high speed
whathever i try, hot glue, playdoh, silicon ear plugs EVERYTHING, it just starts to dissapear from the diff and the gears get unjammed again. what am i doing wrong? iam putting as much as possible in there yet the diff unlocks fully at around 15 minutes of run time!
I’ve never considered that as an option as it generally hardens somewhat over time. Let me know how it works please. I would be interested in clean out later and performance. Thanks.
Not the outcast but we have a notorious (that one belongs to Nate). For a stunt truck it rocks, but I like the mid to long chassis cars so, since I’ve had time with one, it is not too likely you’ll see one in my collection. Remember, we only get the ones that turn us on. We don’t spend our money on RC’s just because they exist. That said, thanks for asking. 😎👍
Hey men, how are you? I have a Traxxas Maxx 4s and wanted to do standing backflips. This car has three differentials: front, center and rear. In fact, the center is also at the back. They explained to me that for this, the center differential is more important, and I need to use silicone earplug on it. Ok, but if I want to use a thicker silicone (500k) in the rear differential, would that increase my rear wheel torque a little more?
First off, thanks for asking us. Secondly, the rear fluid will only affect the posi type action and not really change the rear torque much. Sure, it will a bit, but the real winner is the center diff. Lock that beast down and you'll notice a substantial difference in your thrust rating. Add to that a heftier motor and you'll go nuts. Also, if you tighten your rear diff, you'll notice a bit more even traction for going forward, but the car will corner differently. I guess squirrely would best describe it. But that's an acceptable outcome for us here - we like squirrely. We hope this helps. Let us know if there are any more questions we can help you with. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios Imagine, I'm the one who appreciates the excellent and so quick response. I understand perfectly and then everything is confirmed for the central differential, ok, I'll lock up. I just didn't understand the squirrely part, because I'm Brazilian and there are no squirrels here hahaha kkk xD
It seems as if you used the wrong screws when you put it back together. I'm guessing they are the same as the case screws as you haven't had any issues?.
I did go over this at the end of the video, but to sum it up for you, connecting the axels through a locked mechanism means the tires run at a more even rate. This means one of the tires will have to skid slightly to make a turn - providing we are talking about the rear or front diffs. The center diff is altogether different. Getting back to the rear diff for example: this means that when you make a corner the rear tires will fight the turn slightly - dependent upon how stiff you make your diff. This fighting feeling allows the rear to skid - or break loose- easier, bringing the car around and helping to control understeer - the pushing of the front tires or not being able to keep the turn tight and controlled. However, if you over-stiffen the diff it can cause oversteer and bring the rear of the car around on you much, much easier, causing spin outs and such. This is the balance point you will have to find. It will be a combination of stiff and smooth - a tuning point unique to each car, plus, there are usually three diffs in each car and they all require different settings to accomplish the tuning phase. This is a subject that has deep ramifications due to the individual driving the car, the driving style of that person, and type of car being discussed. Plus, and I have to stress this point, what works well for someone else may not work at all for you; it all depends upon your car and driving style. So tuning your car for best performance will require trial and error until you get the handling and performance you are looking for. AJ
Yes we have and it does work. It can be a bit hard to clean out afterward but it functions well enough. It can be a bit harder on the drive cups however due to the additional stress it imparts on them. Thanks for asking. 😎👍
Correct. If you rinse your diff completely out, the ear plugs lock everything up. The trick is balancing the oil with the ear plugs. Thanks for the comment. AJ
Have you been able to get around to the EXB diffs video? I ask as I'm current rebuilding my Outcast 6s EXB. I also have anotber question.. I have a very built arrma Big Rock that is running 6s. Everything intern is upgraded. My headache is the dang drive shafts. I strip the factory CVD's and I've tried the upgraded CVDs but they jus barely fit on my (typhon A arms) widened big rock. Do you know of any good aftermarket alternatives driveshafts? I'm willing to mod it to fit anything at this point but I'm tired at throwing money at the wall. Any suggestions?
I've been toying with an idea- heating up petroleum jelly and pouring it in the diff as a very thick oil, to be as tight as possible (near lock), but still able slip a bit and give on bad landings etc. Has anyone ever tried it or even thought about it? Is it even viable? Or would it be a total non-starter?
I think I’ll try that. As far as I know no one has tried that yet. I have been toying with the idea of using similar substances such as magic lube and things of that nature but I haven’t thought of the petroleum jelly part. Good idea. Hopefully it won’t be a nonstarter and we’ll be able to put it on the channel so you can see the results. Thanks, AJ.
Why wouldn’t you simply use some super thick silicon oil, something like 50k or 100k oil will be as viscous as honey, or even more so. Also, there’s no issue with the jelly losing viscosity as it heats up. Silicon oil is made specifically for the purpose at hand. And, of course, you can very easily mix and match your own preference for viscosity. If you, for example, wanted 75k, just put in a 50/50 mix of 50k and 100k and the end result is a viscosity of 75k.
I haven't tried it, still just an idea. I obviously know petroleum jelly melts (that's why I said heat it and pour it), which is both good and bad- you can just pour it in a diff so it's totally full and will become almost solid after cooling, but because it melts if it's not able to hold the spider gears still (locked) it will indeed melt, or it could melt just from the friction of the bearings or motor heat transferred through the aluminum chassis. But then again, how much would it affect the performance if it did melt? It would still be packed full and could work like a viscous coupling (like a torque converter in an automatic transmission). I have a feeling that a RC diff completely filled with melted petroleum would do better than the small amount of that axle grease looking stuff that comes in many new cars. Another potential problem could come from unequal heating causing pockets of melted petroleum while the rest stays solid, which in my mind could be a bigger problem (no lock around the spiders and no fluid dynamics in the rest of the diff). All that being said, there's no way to know without trying, and if it works, Vaseline is much cheaper and more common than those super thick specialty "bazillion weight" Diff fluids, and I guess you wouldn't need to let it sit overnight to settle before squeezing the cover back on.
@@AJJAMStudios I didn't see any of the replies until now. Did you ever try it? I would love to see, and I still think about it and wonder if it could work.
Stiffening up the center diff will help you with your hole-shot, but it comes at a cost. The more power you throw at the rear, the easier it will be to spin out during acceleration. However, with good pavement to hook up to this can be overcome with throttle tuning. As far as the rear diff goes, posi is king for drag racing. Even power to the rear is what helps real drag cars control the power sent to the rear wheels during the launch. Personally, I think the center diff should be stiffened with diff oils instead of the silicone plugs, but for this reason, I find the oils to be easier to tune for consistency. Example: Let's say you want to drag race your 4wd rig, alright? In my experience, I would set my oils up like this, 30K front, 50K rear, 500K center. This will give you the hole-shot, but leave you in control of the car as it accelerates. Of course, this is all contingent upon the surface you're running on. High traction? Low traction? Oil spots in the way? All these things have an affect upon the handling. I would play with the numbers a bit, 30K and such, but keep the layout, loose in the front, medium in the rear, and stiff in the center. This layout should help. Let us know how it works for you. 😎👍
Quick question - why not buy one container of the thickest oil and one container of the thinnest oil and then simply use math to create whatever thickness you want...?
That would work too, but knowing the thickness you actually need would be easier. If you're going to buy oils, then it would make sense to get the oils you need right off the bat. Keep in mind, mixing oils can be tricky and hard to duplicate. Then again, using this method takes a little patients too. Thanks for your comment. AJ
That’s definitely one way to handle it. But it does sound a little permanent to me. I like the ability to reopen the diff and change how the set up is, even in the differentials that I’ve locked up. However, I’m glad this works for you. Thanks for sharing. AJ
Is there a way to put power into the wheel on the ground and not into the wheel off the ground when I free wheel it on my centre diff in my hsp flying fish lowrider rc car with out locking the diff
You can thicken the fluid without locking the differential down and that may help. Finding the right thickness takes some trial and error for your application. I hope this helps.😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios when I stop the wheel that's off the ground the one on the ground spins and then it starts to move its like it need brakes to stop it so the one on the ground will spin and move the car while in 3 wheel motion when I jam the wheel off the ground it moves and 3 wheeling
Shoot I just got a $1.25 silly puddy to throw into my diff instead of 20mil that traxxas calls for lol well I take that back I'm adding it to the old stuff to sniffing it up a bit since I swapped internals I had less oil (clay) to put in the new set so I'm compensating with silly puddy haha used it in my old 2wd 10th scales before a d it worked great, not sure what it'll do in this bigrig!
There is really only one way to find out; test it. It will work or it won't, but you can always rebuild the diff if things go sideways. Please, let me know how it works, and of course, what rig you try it in. Thanks for commenting. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios will do! Probably be a couple weeks as I'm working on my electric gokart a little bit each day (can't stay in the floor long because it kills my back) lol
@Vape N Clash lol mybad man, I have this thing called a life so I got busy and forgot all about it lol I did buy a brand new center diff and fixed it all up lol. I've used it in 2wd rustlers and stampedes with great results!
Battery life is dependent upon amp draw. Without the ability to bleed off torque to the front wheels the ESC pulls more power from the battery. This shortens the run time of the car. Stiffening the center diff draws more amps. Gearing also plays a role in run time. Check out our 101 series, I think it would help. Thanks for asking 😎👍
True. There are many ways to simplify the process. I'm aware of the widening to allow simpler installation, but the demo was to show it "can" be done without doing so. Thanks for the comment.
I don't understand the benefit to looking rear diff. Center diff with ear plugs yes. Do like the time you must have put in to make a really clean video.. I really like 50k in front , 500k or ear plug center. 30k rear. I will have to try locking rear on the build I'm working on now.
Locking the rear makes the RC more able to act more like a stunt rig. For standard bashing it probably would not help much. It’s a setup for stunting. Thanks for commenting 😎👍
lol love hack man i ant buying any sillycon oil for my car ether i mix up my own crap from grease and additives but thats a car guy with a crazy engineering thinking heck their is a can of Molybdenum disulfide in the tool cabinet just for custom blending stuff.funny thing silcon ant really used in any tool gears so i figure their ant no way its that good for wear.May be its a so called safe oil is way its used or may be its to jerk up the price and increases wear on gears i have no clue as to why its used
![Eminem - Fuel (feat. JID) [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/t5H_CewqpKA/mqdefault.jpg)
As a technician,I love the idea u shared for more experiences…thanks bro!!!
Great vid keep em coming. I've heard about the earplugs in the diff and I was like what the hell are earplugs going to do🤔🤔🤔🤔. Wasn't until I watched this wrenching vid it clicked, I was thinking of the foam earplugs 😫😫😫😫
It's an easy thing to do. At first, when I heard of the idea, I thought the same, but after looking around it clicked for me. Thanks for the comment. AJ
I love that you factor in the cost of the maintenance on these cars, and some common sense alternatives. I just don't see that on other channels, please keep that up! Like grease, a lot of these companies like to upsell grease, at crazy prices! Cow RC comes to mind, at the end of the day, it's just grease. I can get a can of Red n' Tacky at the auto parts store for a fraction of the money I would pay for a few ounces of Udder Butter
True. Don't forget, there are different types of grease, and some are better suited for the RC world than others. Right on. Thanks for the comment.
I keep a bottle of 500 k and silicone earplugs mix the two and get the mix I’m comfortable with... like to get it almost locked but with some play ... great for all around bash ... I don’t drive my RCs to destroy them just to enjoy them ... thanks for the great info...👍👍👍
You may be able to help me. I'm a basher with a 6s Mojave all off-road. I ordered a locker spool foe the rear but may have messed up? Don't think I will like (after watching too many vids🤣)
Can I just put the locker in the center and maybe run 1million in rear and 500k front? Thanks.
Great Idea. I will be trying this for sure....
Great example for the use of silicon earplugs. I never really put a cost to the diff oils and compared that to the earplugs. I personally haven’t dabbled in the use of ear plugs in the diffs but have heard of many people using them like yourself. I’m currently satisfied using different oils for bashing but since I don’t race yet I don’t really need such a stiff rear diff
Correct, the ear plugs do work for many situations, but using the right diff oils is actually the better way to go; if you can afford it. Being a tinkerer at heart, I like being able to dabble in these kinds of experiments. I'm glad you saw the value in trying such a path. AJ
Awesome.... I'm gonna try it out.... thanks for sharing....
Love the academic approach, great video. Thanks!😊
You sold me on the ear plugs, just ordered a set. And you have yourself a new subscriber. Very informative, great vid!
Awesome! Thank you!
Another amazing video!!!! I’m learning so much!!
Thanks for another great video! They're really informative.
Glad you like them!😎👍
OMG With only this one video u made me to subscribe to yr channel. What a great explanation!! And I love your way of express the stuff!!!! Thx for being there man!!!
Awesome! Thank you!
Thanks for the great instructional video. Glad that I subscribed.
Glad it was helpful!
The Lucas white lithium grease I just started using it and man that is some freaking awesome stuff thanks for the advice AJ keep doing what you doing God bless you.
I'm glad we could help 😎👍
Looking forward to your EXB diff video 🤗
It is a bit out, as we are upgrading the studio and workshop at the moment. But as soon as we get space setup, the vid will be coming. Shouldn't be long. AJ
Keep up the good work brother. Don't change up The style of your vids. 👍🏾
Copy that. Thanks for the comment. 😎👍
Absolutely love all the videos helped me tremendously
Glad we could help 😎👍
Hey, guys, just to let you know, we do have a Typhon 6s Brutal Review heading your way, but it may be a bit before we post it. So hang in there and I hope you Subscribe.
Subscribed
I've been working on diffs my whole life my grandpa started the business 100 years ago and my father took over and now my father has taught me everything so I was thinking I could start making diff parts for RC cars. We have been making differential parts for cars for 50 years and I am into the RC hobby so it would be a good thing to start making differential parts on all these machines we have. If you have any ideas of what we could make stronger let me know. I have a workshop in Australia full of manual and CNC machines
Wow. Do you intend upon working solely on Diffs? Or are you considering other parts as well? By the way...Thanks for the comment. AJ
I had a thought on that. The Losi Lasernut and the DB Pro for that matter, both suffer from an ill designed center diff. If you could build a replacement for those rigs but offer several variants such as selling it dry, or giving the customer the choice of having the diff shipped with whatever weight oil they choose, might be an avenue to start with. Also, building slippers for the center diff cars that are adjustable, that too might be a huge market to get into. For example, placing a slipper into my Arrma 6s cars would definitely be something I would like to try. Along those lines, marketing the shims for purchase would be a great thing. More people than I care to mention have no idea where to locate the correct shims for their particular vehicles. Would it be possible to put together a shim pack with various shims? That too might be an avenue worth pursuing. Thanks for asking.
@@AJJAMStudios well I have made steel parts for my jlb cheetah. So I could make any parts for any RC car if you need me to. And yes I could make shims up if you need.
Awesome. Do you have a web site I could visit?
I can’t find an aluminium diff housing for a hpi trophy flux that would be a god send.
Really appreciate yr channel.👍
Thank you so much 😀
"and this is how you put down your pliers" 😂 25:42
Excellent video man. I don't own a Typhon but I know more about them now. And this helped me decide to use silicon ear plugs to tighten the diffs in my Tamiya TXT-1, which has non-sealed open diffs, to be more of an all rounder in bashing and crawling. Thanks!
its a way to lock diffs but at the end I go with the oil as its much easier to remove them as the earplugs.
true
Good people rite here love the content
I used the suspension, arm and shafts from the Mojave and it came very good and very strong also the I used limited slip diff in the center I am also to put one in the front although while you start purchasing parts it get expensive job!
Yes its my freind using this metode like you bro
But he dont giving me this metode ar seecret
Now you ar answer me what i serching in 5 years bro
Thanks so much
I’m glad we could help 😎👍
FWIW, fluid dynamics dictate you must account for any mechanical items plus fluid volume, (in this case, earplugs are technically a fluid), in order to not overfill your vessel. That sun gear displaces more than you think, and ideally, you don’t want to be pushing that ring gear down that much, as all the pressure will be transferred to the path of least resistance. Take a little more fluid out, make sure the sun gear and ring gear sit perfectly on the case, screw it up, then weigh it.
Hi AJ,
I watch and like all your videos, you’re great and very smart. I want to get that wheelie bar you have on this Typhon 6s for mine can you post a link or give me a some more info on it please thank you pal… keep up the awesome content 👍
I like your multi drawer bench setup.
Thank you.
@AJ... if I'm starting with a clean diff, I'm assuming I have to add in some diff oil then then the ear plugs. What weight and how much diff oil should I start with? Like 10k and 1/4 of the diff cup? Thanks. Best explanation on the ear plugs I've seen yet. I've only seen guys using them in the center diff.
I find the stock oil works just fine. You can tune it from there. Remember, as you add plug pieces it will force the oil out, so 50% full should do, but if you are just adding a little resistance you might want a bit more. As you add pieces the silicone will displace the appropriate amount of oil. Small pieces of silicone seem to work best. In the video you saw me more or less locking mine up, so begin slowly and add small chunks. This allows the gears to integrate the plugs properly. Also, take the time to work the diff so the mixture is even. Best of luck. I hope it works to your satisfaction. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios Thanks AJ. Starting with a clean diff. No oil. But I do have 3 bottles lying around. 10k, 30k, and 50k. Ordering the ear plugs now. Actually $9.99 for 18 pairs.
@@AJJAMStudios Ended up snapping my pins behind sun gears into 3 pieces, so I completely cleaned out my diff cup. Doing the McMaster Carr tool steel pin upgrade.
Thanks AJ! Love you vids man! 2 thumbs up on this one.
Thank you 😎👍
Did you have a video on how to widen the Typon 6s?
I use mine for on road..id like to widen it.
Thank you
Great vid. I noticed on my TT pro, when I put the 500k in my centre diff I started to strip my hexes alot. Possibly also because I increased the punch too much and run road tyres on tarmac mostly out fromt of my house. I am going back to 100k centre diff fluid and and also going to try thicker hexes also to grab more wheel. Anything you can suggest to help me stop stripping hexes and wasting my wheels.
Are you using stock drive shafts? If so that probably won’t hold up for very long, I get the idea but I’d try using red n tacky with the diff packed Full. Great video!
Good to know. Thanks. AJ
Hello, another great video. the silicone ear plugs you use, do you need to be looking for a specific type, or just any soft moldable silicone ear plug will work?
We haven’t noticed much difference between them. If you find any that do not work please let us know.
Really like your channel. Because of covid 19 outbreak in Vietnam, I can’t get the diff oil. So is this ok if I use motorcycle oil to substitute for the silicone diff oil?
It is worth a try. Worst case, it may not work as well, but all you would have to do is clean it out if it doesn’t. I would try it. It sounds like fun to me. Thanks for asking. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios appreciate your answer
Earplugs are way how to make Typhon undriveable tank on rc track. For bash, it does not matter. But for serious handling, some proper oils has to be inside. For example 20/30/10K. Depend on the track.
Good info. Thanks 😎👍
Your videos are the best, really informative. Can you do this to the EXB LSD? Or would you need to convert it to an open diff first with the shim kit? Was just wondering after what you said about the Mojave on the block vid, with having it set up open diff. Seems to be very high maintenance with the LSD, cheers
I would definitely run no LSD if you’re going to try this. It’s hard on the components and defeats the plates. Thanks for asking 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios Thanks for the info, what would you suggest is the best option for EXB Mojave after having run your one for a while? Also do you know if its possible to run a standard diff from the RTR BLX Mojave in the EXB, or do you just have to go the shim kit route? Cheers
Hi Ajay - QUESTION: Ive bought a new V5 Typhon and also a new Hobbywing EzRun Max6 4985SL 1650Kv Brushless 160A Motor and ESC Combo. Running a 21T Pinion, Stock Spur... To get her to handle well, ( like driving, not jumping ) Would you still recommend these Oil weights bro? or Something different to try? Thanks buddy.
try some nlgi4 (not waterpump grease) high temp grease or 5 if you can find it, its like wax and will thicken the faster the gears move, would proably give a much better result. open (ish) at low speed locked at high speed
Awesome idea. Thanks. AJ
Can you use shock oil as differential fluid? I can’t seem to find any locally
I’ve done it myself. Lubrication is better than dry. But the diff will have little to no resistance. I hope this helps.
Thanks sir
whathever i try, hot glue, playdoh, silicon ear plugs EVERYTHING, it just starts to dissapear from the diff and the gears get unjammed again. what am i doing wrong? iam putting as much as possible in there yet the diff unlocks fully at around 15 minutes of run time!
What about using silicone caulking instead of ear plugs? You can get a whole tube of that for like 6 or 7 dollars
I’ve never considered that as an option as it generally hardens somewhat over time. Let me know how it works please. I would be interested in clean out later and performance. Thanks.
@AJJAMStudios have you heard of anyone trying this, if it was myself I would put some out for it to cure before using it inside the diff
Seems like this could cause gears to strip instead of transferring power to other wheels like its designed to do
Ok , so I like your view . However , you double talked the sledge but then put it behind the UDR !! The UDR!? I subbed anyway ! 😮
why would you want this slower to turn what are the bennys, thanks wouldnt it put more stress on the motor
Do you not like the outcast 6s?? I ha e one and I'd like to see what the possibilities are with it.. thanks sir. Awesvids
Not the outcast but we have a notorious (that one belongs to Nate). For a stunt truck it rocks, but I like the mid to long chassis cars so, since I’ve had time with one, it is not too likely you’ll see one in my collection. Remember, we only get the ones that turn us on. We don’t spend our money on RC’s just because they exist. That said, thanks for asking. 😎👍
Understood sir. Thank you for replying back to me. You're awesome
Do u use blue lok tite when tightening all the bolts back down?
For the bolts into metal, yes.
My hand are fucked up with stains from the grease I actually thought about wearing gloves 🧤 Will it hurt to use 3 in 1 oil in my differentials
It will work but you cannot change the viscosity for tuning. Your diffs will basically be open diffs using that oil. Gloves certainly do help. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios what do you mean by open diff what will it do
Check out differentials 101 in the 101 playlist. That should answer your questions. Thanks for asking. 😎👍
Hey men, how are you? I have a Traxxas Maxx 4s and wanted to do standing backflips. This car has three differentials: front, center and rear. In fact, the center is also at the back. They explained to me that for this, the center differential is more important, and I need to use silicone earplug on it. Ok, but if I want to use a thicker silicone (500k) in the rear differential, would that increase my rear wheel torque a little more?
First off, thanks for asking us. Secondly, the rear fluid will only affect the posi type action and not really change the rear torque much. Sure, it will a bit, but the real winner is the center diff. Lock that beast down and you'll notice a substantial difference in your thrust rating. Add to that a heftier motor and you'll go nuts. Also, if you tighten your rear diff, you'll notice a bit more even traction for going forward, but the car will corner differently. I guess squirrely would best describe it. But that's an acceptable outcome for us here - we like squirrely. We hope this helps. Let us know if there are any more questions we can help you with. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios Imagine, I'm the one who appreciates the excellent and so quick response. I understand perfectly and then everything is confirmed for the central differential, ok, I'll lock up. I just didn't understand the squirrely part, because I'm Brazilian and there are no squirrels here hahaha kkk xD
If it works it works right. A silicone ear plug can’t do harm.
true that.
How do you run your xmaxx?
Does anyone know of any aftermarket drive cups that will fit that aren't made from cast steel like these are? The Vitavon Cups are too thick btw.
My brushless all wheel drive doesn’t work I took it apart and my screws keeping coming a loose
More Information?
Will that be the same for the rtr trl getting the diff out
Yes
You do really good videos
It seems as if you used the wrong screws when you put it back together. I'm guessing they are the same as the case screws as you haven't had any issues?.
The question is, how a locked/stiff diff affects the steering?
I did go over this at the end of the video, but to sum it up for you, connecting the axels through a locked mechanism means the tires run at a more even rate. This means one of the tires will have to skid slightly to make a turn - providing we are talking about the rear or front diffs. The center diff is altogether different. Getting back to the rear diff for example: this means that when you make a corner the rear tires will fight the turn slightly - dependent upon how stiff you make your diff. This fighting feeling allows the rear to skid - or break loose- easier, bringing the car around and helping to control understeer - the pushing of the front tires or not being able to keep the turn tight and controlled. However, if you over-stiffen the diff it can cause oversteer and bring the rear of the car around on you much, much easier, causing spin outs and such. This is the balance point you will have to find. It will be a combination of stiff and smooth - a tuning point unique to each car, plus, there are usually three diffs in each car and they all require different settings to accomplish the tuning phase. This is a subject that has deep ramifications due to the individual driving the car, the driving style of that person, and type of car being discussed. Plus, and I have to stress this point, what works well for someone else may not work at all for you; it all depends upon your car and driving style. So tuning your car for best performance will require trial and error until you get the handling and performance you are looking for. AJ
If my rear end on my tamiya truck, tt01e keeps sliding out on corners will this help ?
No. Selecting the proper may help though. Lighter should be better. The hack is for larger cars used in bashing mostly.
Have you ever try it on kraton 6s or outcast 6s?!
Yes we have and it does work. It can be a bit hard to clean out afterward but it functions well enough. It can be a bit harder on the drive cups however due to the additional stress it imparts on them. Thanks for asking. 😎👍
I like your idea but it wont work if you flush the whole diff oil
Correct. If you rinse your diff completely out, the ear plugs lock everything up. The trick is balancing the oil with the ear plugs. Thanks for the comment. AJ
Honey, have you seen my toothbrush?
Have you been able to get around to the EXB diffs video? I ask as I'm current rebuilding my Outcast 6s EXB. I also have anotber question.. I have a very built arrma Big Rock that is running 6s. Everything intern is upgraded. My headache is the dang drive shafts. I strip the factory CVD's and I've tried the upgraded CVDs but they jus barely fit on my (typhon A arms) widened big rock. Do you know of any good aftermarket alternatives driveshafts? I'm willing to mod it to fit anything at this point but I'm tired at throwing money at the wall. Any suggestions?
And do u have an Amazon link to the earplugs?
The video on that is called the LSD diff rebuild. Also, search silicone ear plugs and you should find some. Thanks for asking 😎👍
I've been toying with an idea- heating up petroleum jelly and pouring it in the diff as a very thick oil, to be as tight as possible (near lock), but still able slip a bit and give on bad landings etc. Has anyone ever tried it or even thought about it? Is it even viable? Or would it be a total non-starter?
I think I’ll try that. As far as I know no one has tried that yet. I have been toying with the idea of using similar substances such as magic lube and things of that nature but I haven’t thought of the petroleum jelly part. Good idea. Hopefully it won’t be a nonstarter and we’ll be able to put it on the channel so you can see the results. Thanks, AJ.
@@AJJAMStudios did this fail? Petroleum melts at temp no?
Why wouldn’t you simply use some super thick silicon oil, something like 50k or 100k oil will be as viscous as honey, or even more so. Also, there’s no issue with the jelly losing viscosity as it heats up. Silicon oil is made specifically for the purpose at hand. And, of course, you can very easily mix and match your own preference for viscosity. If you, for example, wanted 75k, just put in a 50/50 mix of 50k and 100k and the end result is a viscosity of 75k.
I haven't tried it, still just an idea. I obviously know petroleum jelly melts (that's why I said heat it and pour it), which is both good and bad- you can just pour it in a diff so it's totally full and will become almost solid after cooling, but because it melts if it's not able to hold the spider gears still (locked) it will indeed melt, or it could melt just from the friction of the bearings or motor heat transferred through the aluminum chassis. But then again, how much would it affect the performance if it did melt? It would still be packed full and could work like a viscous coupling (like a torque converter in an automatic transmission). I have a feeling that a RC diff completely filled with melted petroleum would do better than the small amount of that axle grease looking stuff that comes in many new cars. Another potential problem could come from unequal heating causing pockets of melted petroleum while the rest stays solid, which in my mind could be a bigger problem (no lock around the spiders and no fluid dynamics in the rest of the diff). All that being said, there's no way to know without trying, and if it works, Vaseline is much cheaper and more common than those super thick specialty "bazillion weight" Diff fluids, and I guess you wouldn't need to let it sit overnight to settle before squeezing the cover back on.
@@AJJAMStudios I didn't see any of the replies until now. Did you ever try it? I would love to see, and I still think about it and wonder if it could work.
I do drag racing with my typhon will this help or hurt my takeoff? I like the detail of your videos
The 6s version or 3s?
@@AJJAMStudios 6s
Stiffening up the center diff will help you with your hole-shot, but it comes at a cost. The more power you throw at the rear, the easier it will be to spin out during acceleration. However, with good pavement to hook up to this can be overcome with throttle tuning. As far as the rear diff goes, posi is king for drag racing. Even power to the rear is what helps real drag cars control the power sent to the rear wheels during the launch. Personally, I think the center diff should be stiffened with diff oils instead of the silicone plugs, but for this reason, I find the oils to be easier to tune for consistency. Example: Let's say you want to drag race your 4wd rig, alright? In my experience, I would set my oils up like this, 30K front, 50K rear, 500K center. This will give you the hole-shot, but leave you in control of the car as it accelerates. Of course, this is all contingent upon the surface you're running on. High traction? Low traction? Oil spots in the way? All these things have an affect upon the handling. I would play with the numbers a bit, 30K and such, but keep the layout, loose in the front, medium in the rear, and stiff in the center. This layout should help. Let us know how it works for you. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios thanks man I'll let you know thanks for all you do in the rc community
I'm glad I could help. AJ
Quick question - why not buy one container of the thickest oil and one container of the thinnest oil and then simply use math to create whatever thickness you want...?
That would work too, but knowing the thickness you actually need would be easier. If you're going to buy oils, then it would make sense to get the oils you need right off the bat. Keep in mind, mixing oils can be tricky and hard to duplicate. Then again, using this method takes a little patients too. Thanks for your comment. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios 👍
Super glue works best for diff lock up
That’s definitely one way to handle it. But it does sound a little permanent to me. I like the ability to reopen the diff and change how the set up is, even in the differentials that I’ve locked up. However, I’m glad this works for you. Thanks for sharing. AJ
It is but the cool thing about it is when it's heated it will slip
Is there a way to put power into the wheel on the ground and not into the wheel off the ground when I free wheel it on my centre diff in my hsp flying fish lowrider rc car with out locking the diff
You can thicken the fluid without locking the differential down and that may help. Finding the right thickness takes some trial and error for your application. I hope this helps.😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios when I stop the wheel that's off the ground the one on the ground spins and then it starts to move its like it need brakes to stop it so the one on the ground will spin and move the car while in 3 wheel motion when I jam the wheel off the ground it moves and 3 wheeling
Shoot I just got a $1.25 silly puddy to throw into my diff instead of 20mil that traxxas calls for lol well I take that back I'm adding it to the old stuff to sniffing it up a bit since I swapped internals I had less oil (clay) to put in the new set so I'm compensating with silly puddy haha used it in my old 2wd 10th scales before a d it worked great, not sure what it'll do in this bigrig!
There is really only one way to find out; test it. It will work or it won't, but you can always rebuild the diff if things go sideways. Please, let me know how it works, and of course, what rig you try it in. Thanks for commenting. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios it'll be in the center diff of my xmaxx!
Please let me know how that works. I'm genuinely interested. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios will do! Probably be a couple weeks as I'm working on my electric gokart a little bit each day (can't stay in the floor long because it kills my back) lol
@Vape N Clash lol mybad man, I have this thing called a life so I got busy and forgot all about it lol I did buy a brand new center diff and fixed it all up lol. I've used it in 2wd rustlers and stampedes with great results!
Is this good for drag racing
I have not tried it on our drag cars. Full sized cars lock the diffs for racing so it might. I wish I could help more. Thanks for asking 😎👍
One of my biggest fears was to get to the diffs.
Check this vid out. It should help also. ruclips.net/video/BeEd5_s6e2E/видео.html
why does it drain the battery quiker
Battery life is dependent upon amp draw. Without the ability to bleed off torque to the front wheels the ESC pulls more power from the battery. This shortens the run time of the car. Stiffening the center diff draws more amps. Gearing also plays a role in run time. Check out our 101 series, I think it would help. Thanks for asking 😎👍
Just unscrew the standoffs nut no more pain to put it everything bavk
True. There are many ways to simplify the process. I'm aware of the widening to allow simpler installation, but the demo was to show it "can" be done without doing so. Thanks for the comment.
I just use a bit of WD40 with me ear plugs and have never had an issue.
Good to know. Thanks. 😎👍
😺✌🏻
Bottles here in canada is 15$
Is that for every weight of oil?
@@AJJAMStudios yes every single one but in amainhobbies(united states) its 7.50$ a bottle idk where you got 25-35$
Anyone tried this on indoor 2x4 sc ??
Not that I'm aware of. We haven't.
I haven't raced rc cars for 35 years. What happened to adjustable ball diffs?
They seem to have fallen by the wayside. I haven’t seen one in years. 👍
That's expensive earplugs...I bought some at Walmart for 6$. Just a heads up!
Thank you for the heads up 😎👍
I don't understand the benefit to looking rear diff. Center diff with ear plugs yes. Do like the time you must have put in to make a really clean video.. I really like 50k in front , 500k or ear plug center. 30k rear. I will have to try locking rear on the build I'm working on now.
Locking the rear makes the RC more able to act more like a stunt rig. For standard bashing it probably would not help much. It’s a setup for stunting. Thanks for commenting 😎👍
bob ross vibes
lol love hack man i ant buying any sillycon oil for my car ether i mix up my own crap from grease and additives but thats a car guy with a crazy engineering thinking heck their is a can of Molybdenum disulfide in the tool cabinet just for custom blending stuff.funny thing silcon ant really used in any tool gears so i figure their ant no way its that good for wear.May be its a so called safe oil is way its used or may be its to jerk up the price and increases wear on gears i have no clue as to why its used
your watch looks tight as hell on your wrist
Boney wrist.
That oil is "grease", they are not the same thing.
Imagine that
Who spends 75$ on differential oil need his head checked, sorry😀 The earplug thing works on bashers but fr race cars its a big NO.