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great result. It may be best to wire the bathroom exciters in reverse polarity if you play the same music on the other in wall exciters. I say that because the excitors are mirroring each other and are out of phase and are cansuling the mass movement.
Logan, I agree, and have done exactly that. I will cover that issue in a followup video. Thanks for catching that. What made that super easy for me, is the fact that all of the wires go down the wall into the basement where they go into amplifiers. That is where I reversed the polarity of the bathroom side only. That way the two sides will augment each-other when run together.
Great Idea!! From what I've learned, the speaker panels should be free-floating like hanging on wires to get best results (and loudness). It looks like your dry wall is rigidly bolted to the back beams. Doesn't it have a bad impact on the performance?
Without a doubt, this was my initial concern. Which was a large part of why I wanted to "test' this concept. It works remarkably well, despite that concern. I suspect If I were to A/B compare the wall to a light, stiff, floating panel, the panel would likely require far less power, and have a wider frequency band.
If you didnt want to bleed into another room do you think lining the inside of the wall with thick rubber and recessing the studs so everything makes contact with the rubber would work?
Without question that would reduce or eliminate the bleeding effect into other rooms. If I were building from scratch, I would do a number of things to reduce bleed, including double studs, one set for each room, along with SONOpan, available at Home Depot, These things are remarkable at reducing sound transfer, if you can get to a Home Depot (in Canada), go in just to see their demonstration. It is impressive. The product is made in Canada. I am not sure if it is available in US stores or not. Certainly, any and all traditional acoustic reduction strategies would help. In this case, I used none of them at all.
Carlito, It is a great idea. I'm glad I tried it and will do it again and again. The results are unexpectedly good, and very affordable (IF) your wall is already open.
I have a question. If you're talking 5.1 surround sound for example, how do you deal with separation? I find it hard to believe that you can get any high frequencies out of it..out of drywall. There's just so much mass there. So now, I have to try it. I'm going to go for a dot-1 arrangement for LF. We shall see.
That is a good question. As for high frequency, my ear says there is plenty of it. If I were critical, I might say that the sound is a bit bright actually. But that speaks to the lack of bass. The cool factor is through the roof here. It is a must try. If the money is not an issue and time and effort is not an issue, definitely do a 5.1 setup. As for channel separation: I wouldn't be concerned. Naturally you will lay it out with thought. Put the left front to the left... on the front wall, as you would, and so on with the natural position of all speakers. Your center will bleed to the left and right, however, your left will surely sound like it is on the left, as will all channels. You should still get great channel steering and separation; I suspect. One small tip: use the bass management built into your AVR to ensure that ALL bass gets redirected to the subwoofer. Do this by labeling all channels as SMALL. This will also reduce the power load going to each exciter, greatly reducing potential for blowing them. Embrace the cool... and go for it!
That is an interesting idea. Of course the biggest impact of the Bass Shakers, is the tactile affects on the body through direct contact to the surface. This makes the Floor ideal. I do wonder what would happen in a wall..? It would have to produce low frequency sound.... Likely cause some cracks through the greater distance traveled to make high volume, low frequency sound though.
I used an hdn8 exciter (not my favourite )and screwed it onto the stud timber,this gave a strong output down to 40hz ,i tested this by moving the exciter around the stud wall ,and found an increased output when mounted on the stud !! i posted a recording over on diy audio ,a study of DMLs as a fullrange driver, of me moving the exciter around the dry wall. the sound was impressive for as you say, A WALL, using only one 50watt exciter . obviously my tests were on the outside of the wall, did you think of using a bass shaker type of exciter? steve,
I did think about using some bass shakers inside the wall as well. I own a few, still in their packaging. But chose not to only because of the unknown factors. With that said, I still can and probably will mount some bass shakers under the floor in that same area and make them part of the wall’s speaker system so they work together. The floor is unfinished below which would make this easy. One challenge I see with putting an audio exciter on the stud, inside the wall, is mounting it on such a way that it’s movement is still perpendicular with the wall surface, so that the wall still shakes forward and back; in phase as they do now. Great idea for my next wall. Stay tuned for bass shakers in the floor
I noticed in your other videos that you have cross beams with space to maybe mount and test bass shakers(probably too late now)I would mount them in the centre of the wall at the ends of the cross beams next to the vertical stud. The use of a separate amp to drive these would help balancing the sound. Or turn up the bass when the friends come around🤣 I look forward to seeing your friends reaction to your wall of sound. Did you try listening to the exciters full range on the wall before using the bass blockers ? Steve.
@@sedge3813 it is too late now to install a base shaker inside the wall, however I will be installing two under the floor to compliment this system. I never did try the audio exciters full range before installing the bass blockers. I fear blowing them and they would be irreplaceable inside the wall, so to prevent that from happening I became narrow minded about their need. I do have more audio exciters on order for comparisons testing, which will include with and without blockers. The purpose of the new test is to compare a 'traditional' DML panel to the sound of the wall to see which sounds better. Stick around for that.
Yes, I’m fact a friend of mine who has heard the wall keeps badgering me to put multiple in the ceiling. The luxury there is; most people have access to the backside of their ceiling through the attic. Should be an easy way to get great sound… everywhere. An added benefit is, there they should prove even more reliable over the years. In drywall, being a vertical surface; all I can do is hope that they don’t lose their adhesion. The 3M tape they come with is exceptional though. YES… give it a try!
I did film their initial reaction, but had a technical flaw in the recording. When I attempted to recreate the scene and rerecord, they just wanted to get to the game, and their reactions were no longer sincere and shocking, as they have already experienced it, and the shock was lost and insincere. I will film the scene when new players join the game in the future. For decades, I have hosted the same players.
I had to give you a thumbs down, because you talk way too much just gets the point I’ve watched three of your videos, and still have not heard the speakers thumbs down you wasted time of my life
IVE WATCHED TWO OF YOUR VIDEOS AND ALL YOU DO IS YAP YAP YAP
Thanks for watching!
I’ve got lots to say; that’s why I made some videos.
Be sure to subscribe and hit the bell icon so you don’t miss what I have to say next… you’re gonna love it!
3 videos on these, and no test we can hear. Why? Ridiculous.
@@derekneu6524 Great point... I will do a follow up, specifically featuring its sound demo.
great result. It may be best to wire the bathroom exciters in reverse polarity if you play the same music on the other in wall exciters. I say that because the excitors are mirroring each other and are out of phase and are cansuling the mass movement.
Logan, I agree, and have done exactly that. I will cover that issue in a followup video. Thanks for catching that. What made that super easy for me, is the fact that all of the wires go down the wall into the basement where they go into amplifiers. That is where I reversed the polarity of the bathroom side only. That way the two sides will augment each-other when run together.
Great Idea!! From what I've learned, the speaker panels should be free-floating like hanging on wires to get best results (and loudness). It looks like your dry wall is rigidly bolted to the back beams. Doesn't it have a bad impact on the performance?
Without a doubt, this was my initial concern. Which was a large part of why I wanted to "test' this concept. It works remarkably well, despite that concern. I suspect If I were to A/B compare the wall to a light, stiff, floating panel, the panel would likely require far less power, and have a wider frequency band.
@@consumertechcheck Thanks!
If you didnt want to bleed into another room do you think lining the inside of the wall with thick rubber and recessing the studs so everything makes contact with the rubber would work?
Without question that would reduce or eliminate the bleeding effect into other rooms. If I were building from scratch, I would do a number of things to reduce bleed, including double studs, one set for each room, along with SONOpan, available at Home Depot, These things are remarkable at reducing sound transfer, if you can get to a Home Depot (in Canada), go in just to see their demonstration. It is impressive. The product is made in Canada. I am not sure if it is available in US stores or not. Certainly, any and all traditional acoustic reduction strategies would help. In this case, I used none of them at all.
Gang stalker device 😂 they hate my sports parlays
Where is that coming from?!? Who said that?’!?
Great work!!!!
Thank you…
It was fun!
And I’m happy with the results
I really like the idea👌 a wall.. and a speaker, now you have a "speaking wall" 💪💪👍👍👍😂😂😂
Carlito, It is a great idea. I'm glad I tried it and will do it again and again. The results are unexpectedly good, and very affordable (IF) your wall is already open.
I have a question. If you're talking 5.1 surround sound for example, how do you deal with separation? I find it hard to believe that you can get any high frequencies out of it..out of drywall. There's just so much mass there. So now, I have to try it. I'm going to go for a dot-1 arrangement for LF. We shall see.
That is a good question. As for high frequency, my ear says there is plenty of it. If I were critical, I might say that the sound is a bit bright actually. But that speaks to the lack of bass. The cool factor is through the roof here. It is a must try. If the money is not an issue and time and effort is not an issue, definitely do a 5.1 setup.
As for channel separation: I wouldn't be concerned. Naturally you will lay it out with thought. Put the left front to the left... on the front wall, as you would, and so on with the natural position of all speakers.
Your center will bleed to the left and right, however, your left will surely sound like it is on the left, as will all channels. You should still get great channel steering and separation; I suspect.
One small tip: use the bass management built into your AVR to ensure that ALL bass gets redirected to the subwoofer. Do this by labeling all channels as SMALL. This will also reduce the power load going to each exciter, greatly reducing potential for blowing them.
Embrace the cool... and go for it!
Put some bass shakers in the wall too
That is an interesting idea. Of course the biggest impact of the Bass Shakers, is the tactile affects on the body through direct contact to the surface. This makes the Floor ideal. I do wonder what would happen in a wall..? It would have to produce low frequency sound.... Likely cause some cracks through the greater distance traveled to make high volume, low frequency sound though.
I used an hdn8 exciter (not my favourite )and screwed it onto the stud timber,this gave a strong output down to 40hz ,i tested this by moving the exciter around the stud wall ,and found an increased output when mounted on the stud !!
i posted a recording over on diy audio ,a study of DMLs as a fullrange driver, of me moving the exciter around the dry wall.
the sound was impressive for as you say, A WALL, using only one 50watt exciter .
obviously my tests were on the outside of the wall, did you think of using a bass shaker type of exciter?
steve,
I did think about using some bass shakers inside the wall as well. I own a few, still in their packaging. But chose not to only because of the unknown factors.
With that said, I still can and probably will mount some bass shakers under the floor in that same area and make them part of the wall’s speaker system so they work together. The floor is unfinished below which would make this easy.
One challenge I see with putting an audio exciter on the stud, inside the wall, is mounting it on such a way that it’s movement is still perpendicular with the wall surface, so that the wall still shakes forward and back; in phase as they do now.
Great idea for my next wall.
Stay tuned for bass shakers in the floor
I noticed in your other videos that you have cross beams with space to maybe mount and test bass shakers(probably too late now)I would mount them in the centre of the wall at the ends of the cross beams next to the vertical stud.
The use of a separate amp to drive these would help balancing the sound.
Or turn up the bass when the friends come around🤣
I look forward to seeing your friends reaction to your wall of sound.
Did you try listening to the exciters full range on the wall before using the bass blockers ?
Steve.
@@sedge3813 it is too late now to install a base shaker inside the wall, however I will be installing two under the floor to compliment this system. I never did try the audio exciters full range before installing the bass blockers. I fear blowing them and they would be irreplaceable inside the wall, so to prevent that from happening I became narrow minded about their need.
I do have more audio exciters on order for comparisons testing, which will include with and without blockers. The purpose of the new test is to compare a 'traditional' DML panel to the sound of the wall to see which sounds better.
Stick around for that.
The 40W one costs $55-$75 CAD. What a bummer. Should only be $35 based on the exchange rate.
Finding a Canadian distributor would be nice… I bet you, of the old school radio shack was still in place today, they’d carry these…
Could you put them in the ceiling?
Yes, I’m fact a friend of mine who has heard the wall keeps badgering me to put multiple in the ceiling. The luxury there is; most people have access to the backside of their ceiling through the attic. Should be an easy way to get great sound… everywhere. An added benefit is, there they should prove even more reliable over the years. In drywall, being a vertical surface; all I can do is hope that they don’t lose their adhesion. The 3M tape they come with is exceptional though.
YES… give it a try!
what about the poker round? Are they all camera shy? I want to see their reaction 🙂
I did film their initial reaction, but had a technical flaw in the recording. When I attempted to recreate the scene and rerecord, they just wanted to get to the game, and their reactions were no longer sincere and shocking, as they have already experienced it, and the shock was lost and insincere. I will film the scene when new players join the game in the future. For decades, I have hosted the same players.
Wow that's pretty cool! But I don't really understand? You just dry-walled speakers into the wall???
I 'hid' Audio Exciters inside the wall by sticking them to the backside of the drywall. They shake the drywall; making great sounding music!
@@consumertechcheck OH WOW! So you are saying the wall is ACTUALLY a speaker then!!
very nice
Thanks
now...make a haunted house project.. The walls are talking.. at different volume... fog machine and all the stuff..
That’s fantastic..!
😃😃😃😆😆😆 thisss wallll isss actualy speakerrrrr .
It actually is... and it is the coolest thing ever..!
I like the way you explain it. I look forward to do it myself
now for once i agree with american construction compared to eu construction bc many if over 90% of all homes here is solid and not drywall like that
I had to give you a thumbs down, because you talk way too much just gets the point I’ve watched three of your videos, and still have not heard the speakers thumbs down you wasted time of my life
Yep, same here. Want to hear them.
@@derekneu6524 I will do a follow up featuring their demo.
Dude, we’re hear to see how the product works. You talk way too much. 20 seconds of the exciters playing and 19:58 seconds of blah blahhhh
Scouts Honor... I will do a follow up video demonstrating the sound. I will limit any explanation to 30 seconds.
stop talking and show us.....
I’m going to do a follow up video where I talk much less and show how the wall sounds…