Returned here after a yearand found an important tip. Use the key light as a reference for setting your fill light. I always thought of them separately, so I never considered doing that as an option. Makes all the sense in the world now. For you other slow learners out there, try watching some older vids too see what you might have missed. Thanks Nathan
Great Nathan, I have been using these tips for a while now, especially to speed up PS. I also, and you probably already have done this, have made a template for the F keys on my keyboard with actions assigned to F2 thru F12 such as 50/50 Amb Blend is F3, F2 aligns all layers, F9 does a Particular Sky Swap, F10 Flattens all Layers, etc. This has tremendously sped up my workflow as have all of your advice on window pulls etc. I really appreciate you, Nathan! Thank you!
Great refresher Nathan, thank you! Great books, I have them all on my iPad and take them along with me and have setup my actions too. The one on one sessions you spent with me really helped to explain the process. My photography has improved immensely and more efficiently with your guidance, so thank you.
Nathan, thank you for your work. I use the Godox TT600 with the Xpro1 on Nikon D750. I need a better remote than the IR remote from Nikon. Your remote, I assume fits in the hot shoe. I can't put both, the remote and the Xpro 1 for the flash in the one hot shoe. Am I missing something?
You're very welcome Gary. Those are some of the basics covered in amzn.to/3X27zXj And I also show a variety of mounting options, as well as triggers and their configs in my online course, here's a link to that too if you want to check it out: prointeriors.nathancool.com/
Thank you Nathan! So I had an idea and I think another great useful thing you could make to sell alongside your book series is some kind of “cheat sheet” for your photography methods. Like standard starting points for exposure settings for interiors, exteriors, flash shots, window pulls, twilight photography, etc. Just a bunch of random important points and tips that would be great for beginners or just people who need a quick reference. Just an idea. Hope all is well! :)
Thank you for tip regarding Lightroom preferences. I just checked mine and the color space was set to ProPhoto RGB instead of sRGB. Can you explain why you recommend sRGB over the default ProPhoto RGB option? Thank you!
I talk about this in my REP series: sRGB is what Internet browsers and many devices are limited to, and when printing you won't find ProPhoto's broad gamut/space. I'll have more on this coming up, but for now I'd suggest download e-books #1 and #2 (interiors and advanced editing) to understand the workflow and more on color spaces, here's a link if you'd like to check them out: amzn.to/3ysZ5wK
I spend so much time on site trying to find angles to eliminate the haze on the windows. A flash reflection is easy to take care of but sometimes entire windows are just hazed out with flash.
If you're seeing haze in the windows, lower flash power. I often shoot a few window pulls at varying flash power, and as I talk about in the books, take a repair shot just in case.
Thanks Nathan! Absolutely loved this video. There was a lot of embarrassing moments in it while remembering different mistakes I've been making (but slowly working my way out of). This video will be such a great guide going forward with different points. Is it your lighting book that talks about equivalencies for flashes? That's one detail that I'm really struggling with and spending a lot of extra time on site as a result
@@NathanCoolPhoto Perfect, thanks! Just ordered it. BTW, I recently recreated the action in your fast flambient editing video. It's absolutely perfect for the way I've been exposing images, and has sped things up SO much
Hi Nathan, when I manually change the power of my speed light flash, it doesn't change the power on the trigger. The opposite is true, so I have to go back and change the power on the trigger. I hope that's clear! Just a point of clarification, I've seen in your book Mastering flambiante Photography the setting you talk about on the trigger, but it doesn't work. The trigger is a Godox XPro C and the speed light a Godox V860II. Is there any adjustment to be made? Thanks a lot!
@@NathanCoolPhoto Hi Nathan, sorry for the delay. I think the problem must have been with my speedlight as it has just broken down. I'll find another one and test it.
Great tips!! I didn't even know about the compression setting between Lr and Pr. They run a lot smoother more! Thanks! 😎🤙
Returned here after a yearand found an important tip. Use the key light as a reference for setting your fill light.
I always thought of them separately, so I never considered doing that as an option. Makes all the sense in the world now.
For you other slow learners out there, try watching some older vids too see what you might have missed.
Thanks Nathan
Thanks Nathan! Great refresher!
Great Nathan, I have been using these tips for a while now, especially to speed up PS. I also, and you probably already have done this, have made a template for the F keys on my keyboard with actions assigned to F2 thru F12 such as 50/50 Amb Blend is F3, F2 aligns all layers, F9 does a Particular Sky Swap, F10 Flattens all Layers, etc. This has tremendously sped up my workflow as have all of your advice on window pulls etc. I really appreciate you, Nathan! Thank you!
Love your enthusiasm! Great tips.
Great refresher Nathan, thank you! Great books, I have them all on my iPad and take them along with me and have setup my actions too. The one on one sessions you spent with me really helped to explain the process. My photography has improved immensely and more efficiently with your guidance, so thank you.
this is awesome. Thank you.
I have that exact Benro Head and LOVE IT! Thanks for the tips.
Thank you, Nathan. Quite possibly your most helpful tutorial ever! PS.. I should have listened to you about CamRanger :)
Great stuff!
Nathan, thank you for your work. I use the Godox TT600 with the Xpro1 on Nikon D750. I need a better remote than the IR remote from Nikon. Your remote, I assume fits in the hot shoe. I can't put both, the remote and the Xpro 1 for the flash in the one hot shoe. Am I missing something?
You're very welcome Gary. Those are some of the basics covered in amzn.to/3X27zXj And I also show a variety of mounting options, as well as triggers and their configs in my online course, here's a link to that too if you want to check it out: prointeriors.nathancool.com/
Thank you Nathan! So I had an idea and I think another great useful thing you could make to sell alongside your book series is some kind of “cheat sheet” for your photography methods. Like standard starting points for exposure settings for interiors, exteriors, flash shots, window pulls, twilight photography, etc. Just a bunch of random important points and tips that would be great for beginners or just people who need a quick reference. Just an idea. Hope all is well! :)
Thank you for tip regarding Lightroom preferences. I just checked mine and the color space was set to ProPhoto RGB instead of sRGB. Can you explain why you recommend sRGB over the default ProPhoto RGB option? Thank you!
I talk about this in my REP series: sRGB is what Internet browsers and many devices are limited to, and when printing you won't find ProPhoto's broad gamut/space. I'll have more on this coming up, but for now I'd suggest download e-books #1 and #2 (interiors and advanced editing) to understand the workflow and more on color spaces, here's a link if you'd like to check them out: amzn.to/3ysZ5wK
I spend so much time on site trying to find angles to eliminate the haze on the windows. A flash reflection is easy to take care of but sometimes entire windows are just hazed out with flash.
If you're seeing haze in the windows, lower flash power. I often shoot a few window pulls at varying flash power, and as I talk about in the books, take a repair shot just in case.
How are you changing the settings on the actual camera? Is that done with the RF controller too?
Manually, I talk about the entire setup in detail in my interiors e-book, here's a link if you'd like to check that out: amzn.to/3dYoJBK
Thanks Nathan! Absolutely loved this video. There was a lot of embarrassing moments in it while remembering different mistakes I've been making (but slowly working my way out of). This video will be such a great guide going forward with different points. Is it your lighting book that talks about equivalencies for flashes? That's one detail that I'm really struggling with and spending a lot of extra time on site as a result
Thanks! Yes, lighting guide here's the link if you want to check that out: amzn.to/3yC9O87
@@NathanCoolPhoto Perfect, thanks! Just ordered it. BTW, I recently recreated the action in your fast flambient editing video. It's absolutely perfect for the way I've been exposing images, and has sped things up SO much
Would a polarizer filter get rid of the window glares?
Nope, no need. But you could certainly try it :)
Hi Nathan, when I manually change the power of my speed light flash, it doesn't change the power on the trigger. The opposite is true, so I have to go back and change the power on the trigger.
I hope that's clear! Just a point of clarification, I've seen in your book Mastering flambiante Photography the setting you talk about on the trigger, but it doesn't work.
The trigger is a Godox XPro C and the speed light a Godox V860II. Is there any adjustment to be made? Thanks a lot!
At this point I'd need to have a private Zoom session to go through this with you. You can email me at Nathan@NathanCool.com for price and schedule.
@@NathanCoolPhoto Hi Nathan, sorry for the delay. I think the problem must have been with my speedlight as it has just broken down. I'll find another one and test it.
Thanks, I wonder when you do the split image flash pop(one for each side), can it be done with only 1 flash?(without the flash near the camera)
Nope, I explain in more detail in my lighting guide, here's a link if you'd like to check that out: amzn.to/3yC9O87
8:55 what is a flash equivalence?
Thanks
See amzn.to/3BI7Fdj