Such a charming young family and yes we all do this - lying under our Land Rovers with a rattle can or paint brush - I Dinitrol mine - inside chassis the first year outside chassis the next - bumper and cross member too
I treated my 1996 Defender to a new Galvanised chassis. They don't last forever and rot from the inside. This one looks like an almost new chassis and in Switzerland at least you are not near the ocean and salt.
For how long do you have your galvanised chassis? We try to take care of it but winter isn't good for us in Switzerland as they add loads of salt to roads.
@@offtrackfamily I can't really answer that because my LR was stored in UK while I was working in Switzerland for some years. A normal ungalvanised Defender chassis I have found to need welding after 10 years with salty roads. This is my second Defender needing a new chassis and it has not really been used since I had the new chassis fitted. It depends how clean you keep it inside and out. I had a Lotus which had very light chassis thin gauge steel and that lasted 30 years with only paint, but it was not so exposed as a Defender and water could not easily get inside it. Most seem to rot from the inside.
Bonjour …✌️ I have to admit … I was LAUGHING 😂 when I first looked at the shot/view … of you and your Family under the vehicle scraping …👍😜 What’d beautiful family activity …😂😂😂 Nevertheless… good Job 👏
OTF. Downunder we use fisholene oil for inside metal cavities like the doors dear ! Exterior ferrous metal treatment is also the "ICT R-10" rust converter product ? V.
Good video great team work. Just curious why you painted the rust encapsulater on clean painted parts as it doesn't work through paint and is just wasteful ? Having done the good work go and check Gwyn Lewis 4x4 as they do some excellent wheel arch protection panels that prevent road and off-road grime getting to key points like the rear cross member the tubular jacking point in front of the rear wheel arch and the front outrigger behind the front wheel arch. The kit comes with extended mudflaps as well. I have fitted this kit to my 90 and it keeps the worst of the Scottish road and off-road grime off of the most vanrable chassis parts.
I was wondering the same, currently doing a Discovery 1 I'm using a product from Metaflux to convert the rust, BUT it must only be applied to rust and also needs keying before paint, same as you surprised they put it over paint as it won't key and dries almost like varnish which isn't a good finish for paint to adhere too 🤔🤷🏻♂️
Never ending dirty work , really happy to see the kids trying to help .
Always good to get them involved ;)
Such a charming young family and yes we all do this - lying under our Land Rovers with a rattle can or paint brush - I Dinitrol mine - inside chassis the first year outside chassis the next - bumper and cross member too
Thanks for your message and sharing what you do :)
What a big job done. That is what aweits me and some welding to just to fix my hand. Cheers 🍻
Thanks! It's best to take care of it before it's too late :)
You treat your LAND ROVER DEFENDER very well congratulations 👏👏👏
thanks
Pas de chance pour la mauvaise météo à la fin, mais du super travail, et tout le monde s'y met 🥰
Merci pour cette vidéo
Merci! :)
I treated my 1996 Defender to a new Galvanised chassis. They don't last forever and rot from the inside. This one looks like an almost new chassis and in Switzerland at least you are not near the ocean and salt.
For how long do you have your galvanised chassis? We try to take care of it but winter isn't good for us in Switzerland as they add loads of salt to roads.
@@offtrackfamily I can't really answer that because my LR was stored in UK while I was working in Switzerland for some years. A normal ungalvanised Defender chassis I have found to need welding after 10 years with salty roads. This is my second Defender needing a new chassis and it has not really been used since I had the new chassis fitted. It depends how clean you keep it inside and out. I had a Lotus which had very light chassis thin gauge steel and that lasted 30 years with only paint, but it was not so exposed as a Defender and water could not easily get inside it. Most seem to rot from the inside.
Bonjour …✌️
I have to admit …
I was LAUGHING 😂 when I first looked at the shot/view … of you and your Family under the vehicle scraping …👍😜
What’d beautiful family activity …😂😂😂
Nevertheless… good Job 👏
Haha Thanks! :)
What a fantastic video. damm weather spoilt it for you, over here in England it would have also. Well done, that is one very loved Land Rover..
Thanks! :)
I was wondering where you were Girl - glad you are safe
:) no worries!
Very determined indeed. Wonderful work l hope to buy a Landrover one day . Thanks
Thanks for your message!
Keep up all the great videos.
Thanks!
VERY GOOD WORK
Thanks
Hoping to do this this summer. Thanks for the useful input 😎👍
Thanks! Need a few days, but happy when it's done :)
Great video, congratulations
thanks
Who loves, cares.. 🥰
:)
OTF. Downunder we use fisholene oil for inside metal cavities like the doors dear ! Exterior ferrous metal treatment is also the "ICT R-10" rust converter product ? V.
thanks for sharing what you use Downunder :) The exterior treatment is a rust converter, yes
Brunox held a few months, before the rust came back. Do you plan to do this once a year?
Even with the salty winter roads the Brunox we used was good for about 3 years. So no we don't do this once a year.
What were you brushing on at 5:10?
Yes we put converter on most parts of the chassis because we couldn't see much under there and didn't want to miss out on any rust.
What are the wheels and tyres you have please? I have a 110 SW & like the look of your wheel set up. Thanks 🙂
Toyo MT open country 285 75 r16
Where is the place with the self wash box with the lift? Here in Solothurn i don't have so one.
It s in Geneva
I search also one in Solothurn one with lift 😅
Did you found something?
Salut, super travail, c'est quoi le produit pulvériser ? Il sert a quoi et où on le trouve ? Merci
c est de la peinture en spray pour faciliter le travail par rapport à une pose au pinceau.
Elle a quoi comme particularité ?
C'est une peinture conçue pour l'extérieur et pour le métal.
Beau travail en famille. Pourrais-tu donner les noms des produits utilisés.
Merci! J'ai ajouté dans la description :)
Hi what paint did you use on top of the rust converter please ..great stuff guys .
Similar to Hammerite, black paint for steel
Good video great team work. Just curious why you painted the rust encapsulater on clean painted parts as it doesn't work through paint and is just wasteful ? Having done the good work go and check Gwyn Lewis 4x4 as they do some excellent wheel arch protection panels that prevent road and off-road grime getting to key points like the rear cross member the tubular jacking point in front of the rear wheel arch and the front outrigger behind the front wheel arch. The kit comes with extended mudflaps as well. I have fitted this kit to my 90 and it keeps the worst of the Scottish road and off-road grime off of the most vanrable chassis parts.
I was wondering the same, currently doing a Discovery 1 I'm using a product from Metaflux to convert the rust, BUT it must only be applied to rust and also needs keying before paint, same as you surprised they put it over paint as it won't key and dries almost like varnish which isn't a good finish for paint to adhere too 🤔🤷🏻♂️
Thanks! To be sure we wouldn't miss out on any rusty little bits, couldn't see much lying under there. Not the best workshop 😅.
Or.. you could it my way??? Takes a bit longer though 🤓🤓
Haha 😄
Not overly sure why you need to rust proof a galvanised steel?
it isn't galvanised