Hi guys! I'll be trying out a new format over the next couple of videos. The goal is to make POV as interactive and insightful as possible 🤙 Let me now what you think of it!
@@Spider2029 Thanks a lot! Really appreciate your comment. I’m glad you liked the video! Crossing my fingers for you mate, hope you’ll get good waves 🤙
BTW I don't want to be that guy that tells you something every video, but there is one thing that stands out to me. You're defintely using the face and bottom turn for more speed now, and that's lovely to see, but it seems to me - and again I may be wrong here - that you're applying a somewhat similar technique to your top turns as your bottom turns, in that you're carving both, putting your weight into the turn (beautifully, I might add). But the bottom turn and top turn are (usually, although your technique is perfectly valid if it's what you want, like a big roundhouse carving cutback is an example) usually very different. This is because on the bottom turn, 1) you have the whole ocean under you and can press down on it as hard as you want and it will push back at you and deliver speed, 2) you have speed and therefore good balance, and 3) you can take any line you want, it's a big blank page and whatever you choose they all get you down the line. But on the top turn, 1) it's a thin little wall of water, inches think, yes it's throwing itself forward fine, but it has no support behind it, 2) you have spent a lot of your speed to get up there so your balance is in more jeopardy and so you have to choose your turn by what speed and balance and position you have at the time, and 3) it's a thin wall not a big floor, it is taking a line that - regardless of what line you'd like to take because of your speed and balance - a line that you have to respect and follow. Putting all those together, in backwards order, 3) when you are on your bottom turn looking up at the coming lip, everything is about deciding your line for the top turn, and hitting the lip at the precise point you want to aim for to deploy the full top turn, 2) positioning yourself, the board and the wave so that it makes a perfect kebab as you do the top turn, a kebab of the board between you and the lip and if you look down the kebab stick you are DIRECTLY over the board and the board is directly on the lip in that kebab line; and 3) as you hit the lip, you pull your legs up towards yourself, allowing the lip to now have to push ONLY the board and not you, because you have in effect kind of jumped a little away from the board, but you do not lose the board because the lip is now able to push the light board back into your moving-away feet.... this also loads your legs like a spring now, which as you lose touch with gravity instead of falling you can now extend your legs again through the second part of your turn to stay in contact with the wve and board as you manovere into the next position get get support again. This position may be a hard turn away with/from the lip ti get the board back under you, or if your turn is less up-and-down and more down-the-line you might want to keep your board pointing down the line and use the last of your upward velocity to rise above the board again and once you are above, extend your legs again as the board regains the face (or does a floater). I may have some of this wrong, I'm just casually trying to explain how it feels for me. I think because you are carving the lip, you are forced to turn hard to regain contact with the wave force soon enough and it's difficult to get over your board again if you carve (leans out) so it is always a strong cutback (to bring the board under you again). In short, if you make yourself light during your top turns and stay in line with (kebab) or above your board (counting centrifugal force as 'above') you will not be so forced to turn hard to regain your balance and can choose to do more down the line turns. Now I have written waaaaaay more than I intended. It was hard to explain :P And remember I could be very wrong. Forgive me if I am. And forgive me please if I am spoiling your learning experience - just let me know you'd rather learn by experience, I won't be offended at all. Learning by experience is beautiful and really you don't want to rush it too much. It's just that you are so open and so keen, I couldn't help sharing. :P
@@greatbriton8425 Hi mate thanks so much for taking the time to put this all down! I really appreciate it. Tips like this really help me (and maybe others) progress faster. I completely agree with you on the fact that I’m doing a lot of carves, and very little snaps. I think that’s because it takes a bit of time (as in, years) finding the pocket and being comfortable with staying right where the wave is breaking. I’m still rushing down the line a lot. Surfing primarily fast and hollow beach breaks does not help 😂 Is the mini snap at 8:04 similar to what you are describing? I’m really happy you wrote this comment because I think I now understand why I’m burying the rail on a lot of my top turns. I’m carving too hard and leaning back too much, with too little speed. Please keep those comments coming 🙏 I think I’m getting better with this, but you’ll have to tell me if you think that’s the case in future videos 🤙
@@maximebesson Hey that's very nice of you to reply and take the time to engage! I appreciate it! I actually spent a couple of minutes analysing 8:04 before I wrote my original comment because it does stand out as a very nice snap off the lip (I don't see it as mini at all, it was cool), but I decided to still write to you because though it's close to what I'm talking about it's still in the (perfectly legitimate) scope of carving. First of all let me be more clear that I'm not talking about snaps. With a snap you can keep your legs pretty much half flexed the whole time (as I think you might be doing), because you are supported by the board the whole time. Your front foot does lift weight off and turn the board with the lip pushing it round - this part is similar to what I am describing - but your body weight is still fully supported throughout via your back foot. If you pause and step through 8:03.5 to 8:03.7 you can see how hard your back foot is pushing into the body of the wave. At 8:03.6 if you imagine the kebab stick of centrifugal force, it is pointing down the line - you, the board and the distant shore/far end of the wave are in a line, with the lip line entirely all to the right hand side of the centrigual force line. The only return force keeping you on your board is the centrifugal force of the turn under your heel, so you HAVE to turn hard to get the board back under you before gravity takes over. Which is all perfect if the snap is what you want. What I'm talking about is where you need to beat a fast section and can't afford to take the time for a snap. So, just as you aim down the line with your bottom turn, you can also aim down the line with your top turn, if you make youself light as a feather. (I'll call this antigravity for now and explain it later.) This enables you to not HAVE to bury the rail and turn hard to support your weight, so in planning the turn you won't have to turn UP vertically into the lip and snap back DOWN vertically again, but you can plan to drive ALONG the lip, horizontally, keeping your speed going down the line. With this approach, you are going to aim your drive up the face of the wave much more diagonally, in fact your board can stil be pointing nearly pretty much down the line, while your up-the-face velocity puts the the kebab stick at 90 degrees to what the snap's kebab stick was, pointing from the front of the wave thru you and the board to the back of the wave for the drive, and then when gravity is about to catch up with you either 1) reverting to the quick snap to save yourself, or 2) take a more pre-planned approach of a soft turn down again, which requires you to preemptively use some of your remaining front-of-wave-to-back-of-wave kebab stick velocity before it runs out to let your body rise above your board before your antigravity fails, and then you can do 2a) a floater if the wave breaks under you or 2b) if the wave does not break under you, simply slip off the lip sideways and resume riding with your weight supported and carry on driving down the line. Maybe I'll draw some pictures, if YT will let me post a link, I might test that out. There is also option 3) (which is my favourite manoevre, I'm not sure what it's called, but it's kind of a very late option 1), you stay with the lip as it throws you out and you don't turn your board down into the wave, but just around into the air under you, and land with the lip in front of the wave. Like you're a small kid and your dad (the wave) is throwing you itno the pool. Huge fun. You can see this dirving line in very very basic form if you ride a wave like this: as if you are a grandad on a longboard on a 2 foot wave, you only point down the line, but you lean gently enough to let your board slide to the bottom of the wave and when you reach the bottom you lean the other way gently so your board rises with the wave and meets the lip and falls with the lip, and repeat. Looking from the far end of the wave your board is like a missile doing a simple spiral. Of course with a bigger wave your board will not handle being thrown out with the lip so you have to employ options 1) 2) or 3) and at the higher down the line speeds they all require antigravity so you can stay up there longer and have more options. What I mean by antigravity is the motion of pulling BOTH your legs in allowing your WHOLE board to be pushed by the lip and then extending your legs again while you rejoin with riding your board again by one of those options. I could be talking absolute garbage so take my words with a big spoon of salt. :) Owing to life circumstances I never got to spend much time with other surfers talking about these things, so I just learned by myself. Now let me see if I can post a link. If I can, I will post pictures to try and make it clear.
@@greatbriton8425 No worries, I’m loving the conversation! I must admit though, I’m not entirely sure I understand what you are describing. Are you talking about things like check snaps, floaters and re entries? Where you are trying to create lift in order to conserve momentum down the line. As opposed to carves/snaps/cutbacks, where you have time to go vertically and push hard into the turn? Because what you are describing with bending your legs towards you sounds to me like you are trying to create lift (with the arms and shoulders going up too). If that’s not it, I’d surely appreciate a link or terms to look up on google/youtube to visualise what you’re talking about! I feel like the hardest thing in surfing (as Zach said below) is knowing where to press down into a hard vertical turn, and where to create lift and speed down the line. Basically, reading every section just right 🤙
@@maximebesson I went back and rewatched every wave of the video to make sure I hadn't lost the plot. Unfortunately I don't know what it's called. I wouldn't exactly call it creating lift, though that MAY be the term for it. But it's not about getting yourself up higher, it's more about absorbing the lip's energy into your legs instead of doing a turn, and using that energy by extending your legs for the turn a second later. This absorption mode take half a second of continuing down the line using the lip. With all the moves you mentioned, snap, floaters, re-entries, yes those do need lift (except floaters sometimes). But what if you simply want to carry on driving down the line (any which way you can)? I think I can find an example at 11:58. You go near vertical and punch through the lip and turn round on your back foot. What if, instead of being so vertical and punching through the lip, you earlier aim at the lip which is also curling further down the line, coming to it at angle, and instead of punching through it, you stay balanced on both feet on your board and suck up your feet just as you hit the lip? This should keep you driving on the lip, flying across it as it were, not making a turn yet. Now you turn your board a little bit to go down again, but still down the line, extending your legs as you do so for that control that you need. In an aeroplane this would be a 45 degree roll as you hit the lip, then an unroll and descent. In all your turns, without exception, and this may be exactly what you want to do, your weight is backfooted, whether you are sideslipping (eg 0:56), snapping, cutting back or getting up onto the foamy bit. This means you always do a hard turn, and sometimes fall. This may simply be deliberate, but because the waves are fast, I would have expected sometimes for you to keep going, doing sweeping top turns like bottom turns. And that kind of top 'turn' has balanced foot weight and requires the legs to take in the lip energy because otherwise you punch through the lip or must snap around. If you are at the gym standing in front of a bench and jump onto the bench with both feet and jump off again, your balance is always on both feet and you absorb the shock by tucking your knees up. It's similar to that, except it is your board's velocity from the bottom turn back into the face of the wave that carries you up to the 'bench', the only part you still have to do is 'absorb the shock' - then you stand there/ride the wave for second before you must fall back down (unless you allow your velocity to carry you right up into a standing position on top of the wave, similar to 2:13 except not backfoot weighted or leaning back but keeping up with your board and keeping it horizontal so you don't steer off the lip. I really hope I'm not wasting your time with this, you are too kind to me. :)
@@greatbriton8425 Alright I think I know where you’re going with this! So what you are talking about are definitely not “turns” (by my definition). And you are absolutely right, I am always either pumping (which is not what you are talking about either) or doing a hard turn with my weight shifting onto my back foot. I am almost never staying above my board, with the weight evenly distributed on both feet. Which I should very well be doing on a lot of occasions to conserve momentum down the line and get longer rides for sure! If you have time, I have a video named “Surfing Until My Arms Fall Off” and at 5:36 on this video, I think I am doing something similar to what you are describing. It was a lightning fast wave and after many pumps, I kind of trimmed the lip without shifting my weight on the back foot too much (I still did it a little bit). Is that what you are talking about? It is similar to the sideslipping you mention in this video at 0:56. But with less weight on the backfoot. Anyways, thanks for pointing this out. Made me realise I am always going vertically for a turn, and often end up either caught up behind the section while the wave is still perfectly rideable, or out the back of wave because I have buried my tail too much! Definitely an interesting thing to talk about and try and improve upon 🤙
@@maximebessonI would consider myself expert on the snow and no slouch after that first turn on the surfboard. Holy crap though, I've only ever actually found the pocket a handful of times. I'm land locked to the Rockies, but given an honest effort to surfing. Surfing is more than a sport or hobby. It seems like it takes a life commitment to understand. A tourist can enjoy a long boy in the breakers, I have, but carving the glassy face of a perfect wave, let alone getting barreled is literally a life-pursuit. I have a lot of respect for surfers like yourself, but until I can do it every day, I gave surfing up for getting barreled by shore breakers on the boog.
@ Well how true is that! Surfing really does demand the highest commitment if you really want to make good progress. That’s mainly because the playing field is forever changing and you only get a few seconds of gliding time every session (if you’re lucky!). I personally see a lot of similarities with skiing/snowboarding though, as in you guys are also heavily dependant on the conditions. And you’re probably chasing the perfect day just as much. That off trail light powder must be the same high as perfect glassy waves. And even though you guys get a lot more riding time out of any condition, it is generally a lot more seasonal than surfing (depends where you live I guess). So my respect also goes out to the snow guys like you mate, we’re all just riding slopes 🤙
@ True words, brother. Utterly different in some respects, exactly the same in others. Finding yourself in the perfect moment to seize a glassy long break and flying through untouched blower powder are exactly the same rush and unity with the natural world. I just hiked 2500 vertical ft at 6AM to get first tracks down the face at sunrise after a 16" storm. I have met plenty of surfers who push themselves to the same lengths for the perfect moment of beauty and power. Hope I can get out to the ocean soon, but I'm glad we both find peace exactly where we are.
Hi guys! I'll be trying out a new format over the next couple of videos. The goal is to make POV as interactive and insightful as possible 🤙
Let me now what you think of it!
I am loving this format! You're taking us with you on your journey!
The interactive piece is something that’s missing from so many surfing videos. This is great!
Super happy you’re liking it mate! Will continue doing for sure, thanks for your feedback 🤙
Like it!! Good insights! I would say you are way above average with your skill 🚀
@@PippoLux Happy you liked it mate! Thanks for your comment, still a long way from advanced in my opinion 🤙
Absolutely ripping, mate! Love this new format, looking forward to watching more. :)
Thanks for your support mate, they’ll be many more coming soon! Happy you liked it 🤙
Great video dude, I enjoyed these waves as much as you did. You gave me hope we'll see some good waves in Mediterranean sea soon 🤞
Best!
@@Spider2029 Thanks a lot! Really appreciate your comment. I’m glad you liked the video!
Crossing my fingers for you mate, hope you’ll get good waves 🤙
the format is great. happy for you mate. keep going
Thanks for your comment! I’ll keep going for sure, thanks for following the journey 🤙
Love your vids mate
Stoked you’re enjoying it! Loving your support 🤙
So sick
Thanks mate!! Glad you liked it 🤙
Amazing video babe 🤙🏼💕
Thanks babe ❤️
BTW I don't want to be that guy that tells you something every video, but there is one thing that stands out to me. You're defintely using the face and bottom turn for more speed now, and that's lovely to see, but it seems to me - and again I may be wrong here - that you're applying a somewhat similar technique to your top turns as your bottom turns, in that you're carving both, putting your weight into the turn (beautifully, I might add). But the bottom turn and top turn are (usually, although your technique is perfectly valid if it's what you want, like a big roundhouse carving cutback is an example) usually very different. This is because on the bottom turn, 1) you have the whole ocean under you and can press down on it as hard as you want and it will push back at you and deliver speed, 2) you have speed and therefore good balance, and 3) you can take any line you want, it's a big blank page and whatever you choose they all get you down the line. But on the top turn, 1) it's a thin little wall of water, inches think, yes it's throwing itself forward fine, but it has no support behind it, 2) you have spent a lot of your speed to get up there so your balance is in more jeopardy and so you have to choose your turn by what speed and balance and position you have at the time, and 3) it's a thin wall not a big floor, it is taking a line that - regardless of what line you'd like to take because of your speed and balance - a line that you have to respect and follow. Putting all those together, in backwards order, 3) when you are on your bottom turn looking up at the coming lip, everything is about deciding your line for the top turn, and hitting the lip at the precise point you want to aim for to deploy the full top turn, 2) positioning yourself, the board and the wave so that it makes a perfect kebab as you do the top turn, a kebab of the board between you and the lip and if you look down the kebab stick you are DIRECTLY over the board and the board is directly on the lip in that kebab line; and 3) as you hit the lip, you pull your legs up towards yourself, allowing the lip to now have to push ONLY the board and not you, because you have in effect kind of jumped a little away from the board, but you do not lose the board because the lip is now able to push the light board back into your moving-away feet.... this also loads your legs like a spring now, which as you lose touch with gravity instead of falling you can now extend your legs again through the second part of your turn to stay in contact with the wve and board as you manovere into the next position get get support again. This position may be a hard turn away with/from the lip ti get the board back under you, or if your turn is less up-and-down and more down-the-line you might want to keep your board pointing down the line and use the last of your upward velocity to rise above the board again and once you are above, extend your legs again as the board regains the face (or does a floater). I may have some of this wrong, I'm just casually trying to explain how it feels for me.
I think because you are carving the lip, you are forced to turn hard to regain contact with the wave force soon enough and it's difficult to get over your board again if you carve (leans out) so it is always a strong cutback (to bring the board under you again).
In short, if you make yourself light during your top turns and stay in line with (kebab) or above your board (counting centrifugal force as 'above') you will not be so forced to turn hard to regain your balance and can choose to do more down the line turns.
Now I have written waaaaaay more than I intended. It was hard to explain :P And remember I could be very wrong. Forgive me if I am. And forgive me please if I am spoiling your learning experience - just let me know you'd rather learn by experience, I won't be offended at all. Learning by experience is beautiful and really you don't want to rush it too much. It's just that you are so open and so keen, I couldn't help sharing. :P
@@greatbriton8425 Hi mate thanks so much for taking the time to put this all down! I really appreciate it. Tips like this really help me (and maybe others) progress faster.
I completely agree with you on the fact that I’m doing a lot of carves, and very little snaps. I think that’s because it takes a bit of time (as in, years) finding the pocket and being comfortable with staying right where the wave is breaking. I’m still rushing down the line a lot. Surfing primarily fast and hollow beach breaks does not help 😂
Is the mini snap at 8:04 similar to what you are describing? I’m really happy you wrote this comment because I think I now understand why I’m burying the rail on a lot of my top turns. I’m carving too hard and leaning back too much, with too little speed.
Please keep those comments coming 🙏 I think I’m getting better with this, but you’ll have to tell me if you think that’s the case in future videos 🤙
@@maximebesson Hey that's very nice of you to reply and take the time to engage! I appreciate it! I actually spent a couple of minutes analysing 8:04 before I wrote my original comment because it does stand out as a very nice snap off the lip (I don't see it as mini at all, it was cool), but I decided to still write to you because though it's close to what I'm talking about it's still in the (perfectly legitimate) scope of carving.
First of all let me be more clear that I'm not talking about snaps. With a snap you can keep your legs pretty much half flexed the whole time (as I think you might be doing), because you are supported by the board the whole time. Your front foot does lift weight off and turn the board with the lip pushing it round - this part is similar to what I am describing - but your body weight is still fully supported throughout via your back foot. If you pause and step through 8:03.5 to 8:03.7 you can see how hard your back foot is pushing into the body of the wave. At 8:03.6 if you imagine the kebab stick of centrifugal force, it is pointing down the line - you, the board and the distant shore/far end of the wave are in a line, with the lip line entirely all to the right hand side of the centrigual force line. The only return force keeping you on your board is the centrifugal force of the turn under your heel, so you HAVE to turn hard to get the board back under you before gravity takes over. Which is all perfect if the snap is what you want.
What I'm talking about is where you need to beat a fast section and can't afford to take the time for a snap. So, just as you aim down the line with your bottom turn, you can also aim down the line with your top turn, if you make youself light as a feather. (I'll call this antigravity for now and explain it later.) This enables you to not HAVE to bury the rail and turn hard to support your weight, so in planning the turn you won't have to turn UP vertically into the lip and snap back DOWN vertically again, but you can plan to drive ALONG the lip, horizontally, keeping your speed going down the line.
With this approach, you are going to aim your drive up the face of the wave much more diagonally, in fact your board can stil be pointing nearly pretty much down the line, while your up-the-face velocity puts the the kebab stick at 90 degrees to what the snap's kebab stick was, pointing from the front of the wave thru you and the board to the back of the wave for the drive, and then when gravity is about to catch up with you either 1) reverting to the quick snap to save yourself, or 2) take a more pre-planned approach of a soft turn down again, which requires you to preemptively use some of your remaining front-of-wave-to-back-of-wave kebab stick velocity before it runs out to let your body rise above your board before your antigravity fails, and then you can do 2a) a floater if the wave breaks under you or 2b) if the wave does not break under you, simply slip off the lip sideways and resume riding with your weight supported and carry on driving down the line. Maybe I'll draw some pictures, if YT will let me post a link, I might test that out. There is also option 3) (which is my favourite manoevre, I'm not sure what it's called, but it's kind of a very late option 1), you stay with the lip as it throws you out and you don't turn your board down into the wave, but just around into the air under you, and land with the lip in front of the wave. Like you're a small kid and your dad (the wave) is throwing you itno the pool. Huge fun.
You can see this dirving line in very very basic form if you ride a wave like this: as if you are a grandad on a longboard on a 2 foot wave, you only point down the line, but you lean gently enough to let your board slide to the bottom of the wave and when you reach the bottom you lean the other way gently so your board rises with the wave and meets the lip and falls with the lip, and repeat. Looking from the far end of the wave your board is like a missile doing a simple spiral. Of course with a bigger wave your board will not handle being thrown out with the lip so you have to employ options 1) 2) or 3) and at the higher down the line speeds they all require antigravity so you can stay up there longer and have more options.
What I mean by antigravity is the motion of pulling BOTH your legs in allowing your WHOLE board to be pushed by the lip and then extending your legs again while you rejoin with riding your board again by one of those options.
I could be talking absolute garbage so take my words with a big spoon of salt. :) Owing to life circumstances I never got to spend much time with other surfers talking about these things, so I just learned by myself.
Now let me see if I can post a link. If I can, I will post pictures to try and make it clear.
@@greatbriton8425 No worries, I’m loving the conversation!
I must admit though, I’m not entirely sure I understand what you are describing.
Are you talking about things like check snaps, floaters and re entries? Where you are trying to create lift in order to conserve momentum down the line. As opposed to carves/snaps/cutbacks, where you have time to go vertically and push hard into the turn?
Because what you are describing with bending your legs towards you sounds to me like you are trying to create lift (with the arms and shoulders going up too).
If that’s not it, I’d surely appreciate a link or terms to look up on google/youtube to visualise what you’re talking about!
I feel like the hardest thing in surfing (as Zach said below) is knowing where to press down into a hard vertical turn, and where to create lift and speed down the line. Basically, reading every section just right 🤙
@@maximebesson I went back and rewatched every wave of the video to make sure I hadn't lost the plot. Unfortunately I don't know what it's called. I wouldn't exactly call it creating lift, though that MAY be the term for it. But it's not about getting yourself up higher, it's more about absorbing the lip's energy into your legs instead of doing a turn, and using that energy by extending your legs for the turn a second later. This absorption mode take half a second of continuing down the line using the lip. With all the moves you mentioned, snap, floaters, re-entries, yes those do need lift (except floaters sometimes). But what if you simply want to carry on driving down the line (any which way you can)?
I think I can find an example at 11:58. You go near vertical and punch through the lip and turn round on your back foot.
What if, instead of being so vertical and punching through the lip, you earlier aim at the lip which is also curling further down the line, coming to it at angle, and instead of punching through it, you stay balanced on both feet on your board and suck up your feet just as you hit the lip? This should keep you driving on the lip, flying across it as it were, not making a turn yet. Now you turn your board a little bit to go down again, but still down the line, extending your legs as you do so for that control that you need. In an aeroplane this would be a 45 degree roll as you hit the lip, then an unroll and descent.
In all your turns, without exception, and this may be exactly what you want to do, your weight is backfooted, whether you are sideslipping (eg 0:56), snapping, cutting back or getting up onto the foamy bit. This means you always do a hard turn, and sometimes fall. This may simply be deliberate, but because the waves are fast, I would have expected sometimes for you to keep going, doing sweeping top turns like bottom turns. And that kind of top 'turn' has balanced foot weight and requires the legs to take in the lip energy because otherwise you punch through the lip or must snap around.
If you are at the gym standing in front of a bench and jump onto the bench with both feet and jump off again, your balance is always on both feet and you absorb the shock by tucking your knees up. It's similar to that, except it is your board's velocity from the bottom turn back into the face of the wave that carries you up to the 'bench', the only part you still have to do is 'absorb the shock' - then you stand there/ride the wave for second before you must fall back down (unless you allow your velocity to carry you right up into a standing position on top of the wave, similar to 2:13 except not backfoot weighted or leaning back but keeping up with your board and keeping it horizontal so you don't steer off the lip.
I really hope I'm not wasting your time with this, you are too kind to me. :)
@@greatbriton8425 Alright I think I know where you’re going with this!
So what you are talking about are definitely not “turns” (by my definition). And you are absolutely right, I am always either pumping (which is not what you are talking about either) or doing a hard turn with my weight shifting onto my back foot. I am almost never staying above my board, with the weight evenly distributed on both feet. Which I should very well be doing on a lot of occasions to conserve momentum down the line and get longer rides for sure!
If you have time, I have a video named “Surfing Until My Arms Fall Off” and at 5:36 on this video, I think I am doing something similar to what you are describing. It was a lightning fast wave and after many pumps, I kind of trimmed the lip without shifting my weight on the back foot too much (I still did it a little bit). Is that what you are talking about?
It is similar to the sideslipping you mention in this video at 0:56. But with less weight on the backfoot.
Anyways, thanks for pointing this out. Made me realise I am always going vertically for a turn, and often end up either caught up behind the section while the wave is still perfectly rideable, or out the back of wave because I have buried my tail too much! Definitely an interesting thing to talk about and try and improve upon 🤙
Easily the most difficult part of surfing.
@@zachb8012 Really is! Everything happens so fast when you’re up and riding 😅
@@maximebessonI would consider myself expert on the snow and no slouch after that first turn on the surfboard. Holy crap though, I've only ever actually found the pocket a handful of times. I'm land locked to the Rockies, but given an honest effort to surfing. Surfing is more than a sport or hobby. It seems like it takes a life commitment to understand. A tourist can enjoy a long boy in the breakers, I have, but carving the glassy face of a perfect wave, let alone getting barreled is literally a life-pursuit. I have a lot of respect for surfers like yourself, but until I can do it every day, I gave surfing up for getting barreled by shore breakers on the boog.
@ Well how true is that! Surfing really does demand the highest commitment if you really want to make good progress. That’s mainly because the playing field is forever changing and you only get a few seconds of gliding time every session (if you’re lucky!). I personally see a lot of similarities with skiing/snowboarding though, as in you guys are also heavily dependant on the conditions. And you’re probably chasing the perfect day just as much. That off trail light powder must be the same high as perfect glassy waves. And even though you guys get a lot more riding time out of any condition, it is generally a lot more seasonal than surfing (depends where you live I guess). So my respect also goes out to the snow guys like you mate, we’re all just riding slopes 🤙
@ True words, brother. Utterly different in some respects, exactly the same in others. Finding yourself in the perfect moment to seize a glassy long break and flying through untouched blower powder are exactly the same rush and unity with the natural world. I just hiked 2500 vertical ft at 6AM to get first tracks down the face at sunrise after a 16" storm. I have met plenty of surfers who push themselves to the same lengths for the perfect moment of beauty and power. Hope I can get out to the ocean soon, but I'm glad we both find peace exactly where we are.