Cut the label off the box your fasteners come in and throw them in to the bins with the fasteners. It will help you identify parts, and also help you order replacements when you start running low. I find it is quicker than printing a label. I used to think i would come back with a labeler and correctly tag each bin, but that never seems to happen.
Hello Winston, half a year ago you told me, that you will never come to the "dark" side (from your point of view)/ to the 3d printing side, but now you present us a video completely without cnc machining ^^ Welcome to the best side to produce complex parts.
If you want to crank out bins faster, I highly recommend putting on a bigger nozzle. A 0.8 nozzle will print those bins in less than half the time with with increased layer height and extrusion thickness.
Badass man. I will be doing this same thing at work soon as we just ordered a couple shelving units to store and organize all the different sensors and connectors we use while build equipment.
To store the cases buy a “commercial kitchen bun rack”. I bought a 20 tier (20 shelves) one pretty cheap. It’s already on wheels and each tier holds 2 of the Harbor Freight medium bins. Cut a shelf out and the large bins fit perfect. The rack is a little wide to hold the bins, instead of adding wood shelves cut the horizontal bars to the right width and re-tap them. Bam, 40 cases on a beautiful roller cart! I haven’t yet, but may add peg board on the sides to hold additional items.
Hey! Love the content and I finally have something to contribute, even if I’m extremely late to the party. When designing walls like this, it’s useful to keep your nozzle width in mind. Instead of a 1.5mm wall, a 1.2 or 1.6mm wall would’ve been easier and faster to print as those widths are “natively” possible without any trickery from your slicer (assuming you have a standard .4mm nozzle). This isn’t a huge deal though, but something to keep in mind for future projects :)
Another option I saw was there are files that turn your empty spools into organizers. Add a lazy suzan bearing and stack them up as high as you want. Pretty neat.
I coincidentally just designed inserts for the Husky brand storage cases. I went through the same process of figuring out the draft angle and getting a perfect fit. I designed mine to have three tiers inside each of the divider containers, and each level had four compartments (1 compartment now equals 12 smaller divisions!). Awesome work, and I really liked the idea of using your phone's compass to find the draft angle! I think my last post got deleted for having a link to an image of it on imgur.
Would you consider making a workshop tour type video? I think it would be helpful for those of us starting off to see how you might organize things and what you like to have on hand, etc.
I just bought a Stanley Fatmax Deep Pro organiser that looks exactly like that apart from having plastic latches and no rubber seal on the Stanley one. Which I've just found is unsurprising considering Stanley owns Dewalt.
Which one of the Ender 3D printer models are you using? Also what kind for filament are you using? I have been wanting to get a 3d printer and have been looking at Ender products. One of the parts (other than misc. stuff for around the shop) is to make bobbins for guitar pickups. Pickup winding is something that I have wanted to get into as I have been using a shapeoko 3 xxl and fusion 360 to make electric solid body guitars (I'm working on my 3rd one now). Any information along these lines would be greatly appreciated. Great video, I always learn new things watching your videos.
I'm using the Ender 5 Pro, though there are plenty of decent options/variations in the brand's portfolio. Anything with one of the "silent" control boards is worth it. Only other feature that might be desirable is auto bed leveling, though I don't have that on the 5 Pro and it's been fine. Haven't had to touch the leveling after day 1, but I don't move my printer around much. Filament is this stuff: amzn.to/3gYvwNX It's nothing fancy, but it's affordable and so far has worked pretty good. Some people say different additives can affect the performance of the filament, so read the reviews when you shop for filament based on not just brand, but also color.
Lol this comment is super old but I wanted to share my new favorite slicer setting! If you’re using Cura, there’s a setting called “initial layer horizontal expansion” which will automatically eliminate elephants foot! Basically, the first layer is inset from the exterior wall to your chosen degree (I like .25mm), acting as a de facto chamfer. Hopefully you love it as much as I do, it has saved me so much time in post processing!
Don’t model the wall thickness. Model the exterior, draft, shell and then add ribs and other details.they is the right way to go. You can leave the 2 compartments bottoms separate so there is no need for infill between them.
You’ve been missed. You’re videos are really great and I learn so much.
Cut the label off the box your fasteners come in and throw them in to the bins with the fasteners. It will help you identify parts, and also help you order replacements when you start running low. I find it is quicker than printing a label. I used to think i would come back with a labeler and correctly tag each bin, but that never seems to happen.
Very smart, thanks for the tip 😊
Glad you are back.
Hello Winston,
half a year ago you told me, that you will never come to the "dark" side (from your point of view)/ to the 3d printing side, but now you present us a video completely without cnc machining ^^
Welcome to the best side to produce complex parts.
I'm always impressed with your mastery of Fusion 360. Great ideas. Thank you!
If you want to crank out bins faster, I highly recommend putting on a bigger nozzle. A 0.8 nozzle will print those bins in less than half the time with with increased layer height and extrusion thickness.
😱 Actually this is very useful! Thanks!
Good to see you again
FYI: Your files fit the Stanley Fatmax Deep Pro organiser as well. At least the 2-divider "small" one does.
totally geeking on this... organization is my jam.
Weird dimensions bother the heck out of me too Winston
Badass man. I will be doing this same thing at work soon as we just ordered a couple shelving units to store and organize all the different sensors and connectors we use while build equipment.
To store the cases buy a “commercial kitchen bun rack”. I bought a 20 tier (20 shelves) one pretty cheap. It’s already on wheels and each tier holds 2 of the Harbor Freight medium bins. Cut a shelf out and the large bins fit perfect. The rack is a little wide to hold the bins, instead of adding wood shelves cut the horizontal bars to the right width and re-tap them. Bam, 40 cases on a beautiful roller cart! I haven’t yet, but may add peg board on the sides to hold additional items.
Hey! Love the content and I finally have something to contribute, even if I’m extremely late to the party.
When designing walls like this, it’s useful to keep your nozzle width in mind. Instead of a 1.5mm wall, a 1.2 or 1.6mm wall would’ve been easier and faster to print as those widths are “natively” possible without any trickery from your slicer (assuming you have a standard .4mm nozzle). This isn’t a huge deal though, but something to keep in mind for future projects :)
Another option I saw was there are files that turn your empty spools into organizers. Add a lazy suzan bearing and stack them up as high as you want. Pretty neat.
I coincidentally just designed inserts for the Husky brand storage cases. I went through the same process of figuring out the draft angle and getting a perfect fit. I designed mine to have three tiers inside each of the divider containers, and each level had four compartments (1 compartment now equals 12 smaller divisions!).
Awesome work, and I really liked the idea of using your phone's compass to find the draft angle!
I think my last post got deleted for having a link to an image of it on imgur.
Great to have you back!! Can't wait for more content!
Great projekt, Dewalt should produce this item with injection mold.
Great video, always interesting listening to your thought in design process, pros ,& cons. Great to see you back too!
Would you consider making a workshop tour type video? I think it would be helpful for those of us starting off to see how you might organize things and what you like to have on hand, etc.
Nice job Winston!
Glad to see a new video from you. Very useful!
The new Festool Systainer 3 and bins are very nice. Pricey but premium materials. The lid is polycarbonate not a cheaper clear plastic
What a lovely show, thank you!
Great idea! I will too!
I miss your videos soooooo much
About time!! You have been missed!!!!
I'd loveto watch a deeper dive in your 3D printers profile settings, i own a 5 pro too and i'd really like to see what i can do to improve my prints !
I just bought a Stanley Fatmax Deep Pro organiser that looks exactly like that apart from having plastic latches and no rubber seal on the Stanley one.
Which I've just found is unsurprising considering Stanley owns Dewalt.
Which one of the Ender 3D printer models are you using? Also what kind for filament are you using? I have been wanting to get a 3d printer and have been looking at Ender products. One of the parts (other than misc. stuff for around the shop) is to make bobbins for guitar pickups. Pickup winding is something that I have wanted to get into as I have been using a shapeoko 3 xxl and fusion 360 to make electric solid body guitars (I'm working on my 3rd one now). Any information along these lines would be greatly appreciated. Great video, I always learn new things watching your videos.
I'm using the Ender 5 Pro, though there are plenty of decent options/variations in the brand's portfolio. Anything with one of the "silent" control boards is worth it. Only other feature that might be desirable is auto bed leveling, though I don't have that on the 5 Pro and it's been fine. Haven't had to touch the leveling after day 1, but I don't move my printer around much.
Filament is this stuff: amzn.to/3gYvwNX
It's nothing fancy, but it's affordable and so far has worked pretty good. Some people say different additives can affect the performance of the filament, so read the reviews when you shop for filament based on not just brand, but also color.
I need these! Where can we buy? So far I have managed to avoid buying a 3D printer...
I wonder if vacuum forming would work for this application if one needed a lot of them.
Great video, learned a bunch about Fusion 360. Awesome designing. Mahalo for sharing! : )
The eternal question in my mind both for work and for hobbies is do I want to go full Adam Savage or just invest in vidmars.
Are they compatible with the TStak System?
Those look very close to the stanley boxes incl the triangular notches in the lid. Does anyone know of they are the same?
Hello, I would be curious to know the name of the music used for the soundtrack of the video.
11 hours? Yikes
Gotta start cranking up that layer height and extrusion thickness.
Chamfering the side walls where they meet the bottom would avoid any risk of elephant foot.
Lol this comment is super old but I wanted to share my new favorite slicer setting!
If you’re using Cura, there’s a setting called “initial layer horizontal expansion” which will automatically eliminate elephants foot! Basically, the first layer is inset from the exterior wall to your chosen degree (I like .25mm), acting as a de facto chamfer.
Hopefully you love it as much as I do, it has saved me so much time in post processing!
Honestly at $40 it’s not that crazy either! I was expecting at least double that.
Looks like I missed the boat on the 50% off MSRP. :(
Don’t model the wall thickness. Model the exterior, draft, shell and then add ribs and other details.they is the right way to go.
You can leave the 2 compartments bottoms separate so there is no need for infill between them.
👍👍😎👍👍
Hi, fine nonsense indeed 🤓.