Big shot out to you from Jamaica love it love it love yr honesty u said u r not a mechanic but u got the job done like a real mechanic that is how 90% of man house garage should look do it yourself with a little reading up and get it done great great kooooool
Spot on vid mate, I'm just about to do a similar job on my 04 vogue. I have some PU adhesive that I'm going to squeeze into the bushings to stiffen up the suspension for the MOT and will paint the arms whilst I'm at it. I also have a split CV Boot kit to fit. I'm looking at a full days job to do it myself.
Great video thanks. Im about to upper and lower sonit was great to see someone else do it. Im a mechanic but still like to check what ithers have done before attempting new jobs to see if there are any tricks etc to make it easier or faster.
Don't torque the wheel nuts with the wheel off the ground; I've seen studs get broken off doing that. And torque the nuts across in a star pattern rather than sequentially.
If the hex socket in the top of the ball rounds out put your jack under the arm and use it to apply pressure, forcing the ball joint to hold in the socket and allowing you to get the nut on or off. You can do the same by pinching the bolt with a set of pump / groove lock pliers but using the weight of the vehicle to your advantage is easier. Its unusual for them to spin as they're often tight enough when new to be OK when properly seated and rusted in place when you're trying to remove old ones.
A very nice job, and it did not rain! I have wondered for some time if this could be what was causing the rattle , I know this is at the front, but rattles do have the effect of appearing at the other end of the vehicle. How can this joint got so bad since the last MOT? I think you need a bigger jack. Did you have to disconnect the battery, or did you just reset the computer with your magic box? Chris B.
If you can pull the fuse the electronic suspension, it will help heaps. As per the other comments about torsion bars. Be careful jacking up with blocks of wood if they fall or break apart, that Jack is going to cause some big damage.
Thanks for the kind words! If I've helped in some way then I'm happy! Not a huge RUclipsr but like to save people time and money! The torque I used was 80Nm. This link is helpful... workshop-manuals.com/landrover/l322-b/torque_wrench_settings/front_suspension/
What prompted you to change the lower arm? Was it an mot failure, or did you feel something was amiss whilst driving? Am experiencing a shudder on braking, and wondering if my fault could be a lower arm issue or possibly a track rod end.
I've never done it this way for the L322. Since there is plenty of access under them even when on it's wheels I've always preferred to start the vehicle - to allow the air suspension to kick in and return the vehicle to it's operating level and then fix the bolts. That's broadly reflective of the LR workshop manual, albeit that doesn't specifically require you to return the suspension to operating height before tightening.
All right im lost, you showed play in a different ball joint (tie rod end) at the start of the vid... say your going to fix it then replace the lower balljoint?
Part bought from: Euro Car Parts (UK) - Lemforder Suspension Arm (Front Axle Left or Right Lower) Product Code: 615670045 www.eurocarparts.com/p/lemforder-suspension-arm-615670045
@@GrooveOn hot the arm i can get that for 27 quid from maltings i was asking about the nuts and bolts in case i needed to get new ones i supose maltings will sell them. thanks
Well this man's theory is wrong because when these vehicles are built they are built in a factory up off the ground, so therefore when you don't tighten the control arm like thee other your car might sag.
Big shot out to you from Jamaica love it love it love yr honesty u said u r not a mechanic but u got the job done like a real mechanic that is how 90% of man house garage should look do it yourself with a little reading up and get it done great great kooooool
you are a gentleman ! thanks for the kind words =, give me a thumbs up !
@@GrooveOn I tried to give u more than 1 thumbs up but won't go through lol dwl koooool
Top Tip Mate use a ring spanner !
Spot on vid mate, I'm just about to do a similar job on my 04 vogue. I have some PU adhesive that I'm going to squeeze into the bushings to stiffen up the suspension for the MOT and will paint the arms whilst I'm at it. I also have a split CV Boot kit to fit. I'm looking at a full days job to do it myself.
Great video thanks. Im about to upper and lower sonit was great to see someone else do it. Im a mechanic but still like to check what ithers have done before attempting new jobs to see if there are any tricks etc to make it easier or faster.
Don't torque the wheel nuts with the wheel off the ground; I've seen studs get broken off doing that. And torque the nuts across in a star pattern rather than sequentially.
If the hex socket in the top of the ball rounds out put your jack under the arm and use it to apply pressure, forcing the ball joint to hold in the socket and allowing you to get the nut on or off. You can do the same by pinching the bolt with a set of pump / groove lock pliers but using the weight of the vehicle to your advantage is easier. Its unusual for them to spin as they're often tight enough when new to be OK when properly seated and rusted in place when you're trying to remove old ones.
+1 to this tip. Easy to put a bottle jack underneath to do this, also works for installing and aligning droplinks.
A very nice job, and it did not rain! I have wondered for some time if this could be what was causing the rattle , I know this is at the front, but rattles do have the effect of appearing at the other end of the vehicle. How can this joint got so bad since the last MOT? I think you need a bigger jack. Did you have to disconnect the battery, or did you just reset the computer with your magic box? Chris B.
Top tip.
Always wire brush the bolt threads before you spray with WD-40.
I feel like this does not get said anywhere near enough for just how important it is for getting a stubborn or crusty bolt off.
@@benfrancis4896Absolutely right Ben 👍
If you can pull the fuse the electronic suspension, it will help heaps. As per the other comments about torsion bars. Be careful jacking up with blocks of wood if they fall or break apart, that Jack is going to cause some big damage.
Excellent! Thanks
Glad it helped, thanks if you subscribed
Thanks man !
No problem!
Great video! Really informative and great instruction from you.
Is there a torque setting for lower arm bolt?
Thanks for the kind words! If I've helped in some way then I'm happy! Not a huge RUclipsr but like to save people time and money!
The torque I used was 80Nm. This link is helpful... workshop-manuals.com/landrover/l322-b/torque_wrench_settings/front_suspension/
Should it be in the driving position before tightening the bush end up, then its in the mid position not twisting to much to the offroad position.
Hi… I just changed on my 2010 vogue and after 3 months started to knock again.. any tips to sort out?
what is the torque spec on that control arm bolt to the chassis?
What prompted you to change the lower arm? Was it an mot failure, or did you feel something was amiss whilst driving? Am experiencing a shudder on braking, and wondering if my fault could be a lower arm issue or possibly a track rod end.
I could feel a jolt when I pressed the brake, so I started to investigate mate
Nice job
Appreciate that mate, I try and get straight into the video, anything you'd recommend I'd do different let me know👍
@@GrooveOn Alright, got it. Any plans to make a next video about changing the engine oil and fuel filter?
Aren’t you supposed to measure
the center of the hub To the top
of the fender liner
Before tightening the lower control arm? I believe is 18.36mm
I've never done it this way for the L322. Since there is plenty of access under them even when on it's wheels I've always preferred to start the vehicle - to allow the air suspension to kick in and return the vehicle to it's operating level and then fix the bolts. That's broadly reflective of the LR workshop manual, albeit that doesn't specifically require you to return the suspension to operating height before tightening.
Did the old arm make the brakes pull slightly
@@Shadowman444w no mate, not related
All right im lost, you showed play in a different ball joint (tie rod end) at the start of the vid... say your going to fix it then replace the lower balljoint?
The play I had was lower control arm only.
More l322 vidz
Anything in particular?
good job, can you put on here what new bolt code and the nut for the bush end thanks. so i can order some thanks phil donny
Part bought from: Euro Car Parts (UK) - Lemforder Suspension Arm (Front Axle Left or Right Lower) Product Code: 615670045
www.eurocarparts.com/p/lemforder-suspension-arm-615670045
@@GrooveOn hot the arm i can get that for 27 quid from maltings i was asking about the nuts and bolts in case i needed to get new ones i supose maltings will sell them. thanks
@@philfish6619 you can reuse the existing bush bolt and nut, as we as the small sensor fixing. the new ball joint nut will be supplied with arm mate
Did you have to get an alignment after replacing that part
Yes, it's always a great idea to check alignment after working on suspension components
I would get a larger 3 ton trolley jack for lifting these beasts.
Definitely I am getting one
I have a 3 ton heavyweight trolley jack. 2 6ton stands and 3 ton ramps when playing with the l322 and P38. Enjoyed your video. Very clear and precise.
You need a better bigger jack.
Nothings EVER easy on a range rover.
I call 'em ratchets.
That’s a ratchet the socket is what you attached to it
Well this man's theory is wrong because when these vehicles are built they are built in a factory up off the ground, so therefore when you don't tighten the control arm like thee other your car might sag.
The subframes are assembled in a jig at the factory that allows the bushings etc to be at road level so he was right to lower it first then tighten.
ratchet
Oh yeah, ratchet!