How To Convert Quill Stem To Threadless Stem With Adapter On Vintage Bike
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- I show how to remove an old quill stem and install a threadless stem with a threadless stem adapter. This is a circa 1990 Trek 1000. I've already upgraded/updated a bunch of stuff on this vintage bike.
Here is the threadless stem adapter I used:
www.amazon.com/...
BTW, the reason I cut the quill stem in this video was for ease and cost. I could have kept the stem, but I would have had to remove the handlebar tape on one side, remove the shifter/brake lever, remove the handlebars. And then later after reinstalling the handlebars, I would have had to remount the shifter/brake lever, and retape the handlebars. New tape would have cost $15-20. OR I could have just cut the old stem. So I chose to cut the old stem.
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What kind of stem did you use?
Thanks so much. I plan on doing this to my 20 year old Rockhopper next week and give it a try before dropping money on a new bike. BTY, I had the same Trek 1000, bought back in 1990 back in the day.
What is exactly fit in that 22.2mm front adapter stem, what size of handle stem that fit that my bike is bmx
Hi RJ....can one paint his cassets is it safe
@@ofentsemodisanehybridathle4896 Probably not a good idea.
Yo RJ. Every time I look up a "how to" when I'm working on my bike, I always find your videos. I can't count the number of times your videos have helped me out. I love learning to work on my own bike, and I've been able to save a ton of money restoring my 90's road bike from the ground up, thanks to your videos.
What I do is add RJ bike guy to my search because he for will have a video on what you are looking for 😂
2:10 Before Dremeling the old stem, probably going to want to work it loose from the forks. On old bikes the quill stem probably isn't going to slide right out 2:46 this easy. Once you Dremel and break the bars out, it's going to be even more difficult to work the stem loose from the bike. Very glad this video was here. It was a helpful eye opener to the process.
Other than Saving Time, i couldn't really understand WHY he Mullored the Old Stem, i Love Working on my Bikes, and the Longer it takes the more Enjoyment i have.
Great video and instructions. I just replaced the quill from my 35 year old Cannondale. I used these instructions, but I have one comment. I couldn't break the old stem with a screwdriver opening it. My handlebar diameter are butted down from 1" to .875", so I was able to slide the handlebars to the smaller area and I used a pair of slip-jaw pliers to collapse the old stem, which easily snapped. Thanks for giving me the confidence to permanently "wreck" a piece of my old bike! The entire process took about 30 minutes, which included getting out the tools, setting up the work area, and putting it all away after.
I would have preferred not to destroy the old stem. But it was that or trash the handlebar tape which was relatively new.
Old style quill stems - one of the most beautiful parts of a vintage bicycle.
Yuck. (Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.)
I agree...
Beautiful? Yeah. Just as beautiful as they are useless
Yes, especially those Cinelli and Nitto quill stems.
The new one is uglier
This video helped out so much. I was freaking out cause I have a threaded stem and I was afraid I was going to have to buy the fork, spacers, etc. Which would cost me a fortune but now that I see how simple this is I'd only have to spend around 80$ or less :D
I made this modification to a vintage bike. It helped me to figure out the best stem length for that bike. Now that I know the best stem length was 80mm, I bought a deda elementi quill stem, with bolts to undo a face plate! - underneath. It looks way better than the quill stem adapter and stem combo!
You've helped me again. Saved my 28 year old Cannondale Criterium frame that was used as a triathlon bike with old goose neck and Profile Aero III bars and updated and converted it to a gravel bike with Ultegra 6700 groupset and Mavic Kysrium wheels.
Mavic Ksyrium gang here!
Bike "mechanic": Yeah, gonna have to unwrap the bars, remove all the brake/shifter cables & housing, remove a brake lever and then slide the bar out
RJ: dremmle mek stem go brrrrrrrrr
I'm going to be "that" guy. I was told to avoid putting grease on the quill, just spread it around in the fork so you reduce the risk of grease getting between the stem and clamping area on the adapter. I saw you put grease on the quill adapter then slide the stem onto the adapter, if not careful you can get grease underneath the stem which might cause it to slide loose. I really like your videos. I probably watch at least one a week, even if I'm not farting around on my bikes.
I was having this very issue we’re the whole headset was moving without moving the fork with slight blunt force. I ended up wiping the grease off the tip and tightening the heavens out the the quail adapter
Love the 1000 aluminum series of Trek bikes, they are workhorse bikes. I have a Trek 1420 and a Trek 1400. I did the same thing to my 1420 going to a threadless stem just because I wanted to keep the reach that was recommended to me at a bike fit. Good job, your videos are invaluable.
Enjoyed the vid, after some researching i finally found what i was seeking. I purchased an older bike and i also wanted to upgrade the stem and handle bars. Im glade i stopped to view ur vid because you basically went over the details required to complete the upgrade thx for sharing! 👍
Hey R.J. I needed a tutorial on how to use threadless stem adapters on my Ross 14 speed, which needs 20.8. And there are 20.8 adapters. So here, you cover how to do it. Thanks. Great series.
I were agonizing between threaded and threadless forks (considering to replace threaded coil suspension forks on kids tourer). I were thinking I have to choose version when buying forks but now I see I can get threaded version and reuse existing headset and adjustable threaded stem (which has detachable faceplate). If I ever would want to go for threadless stem I would only need this adapter thing. Thank you again!
I've used these adapters in the past and can be found on e-bay for like 5-10 bucks. Just change one on a Trek 3500 that has a threaded 1 inch. But I put on a Hussefelt stem and handlebar. Oh ya bad ass bike now!
Old school style quill stems look a lot nicer if you want the bike to look vintage but so much easier to get the bar where you want 'em if you can play with different lengths, rises, flip 'em, etc.
I have had good success preventing galvanic corrosion between steel and aluminum by applying Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket. It goes on brown and sticky and does not dry out.
thank soo much for this i have been trying other vids but they were not clear and i learnt well from you i really apriecate it thanks!!
I got 3 of those old white Ritchey saddles , love 'em
The best of both worlds: The adjustability of a quill stem and the convenience of thread-less stem. Good video.
Thanks, it worked pretty well here. The only thing is, my old stem was one of those with the front brake cable going through it, so I had to cut the the thick tip of the cable and disconnect it from the triangle before going on with the procedure. I had some trouble to put the cable back, but that's because I'm inexperienced, but I somewhat managed it.
Been wondering if this is possible/how to do it, looks like it's actually pretty easy! Thanks for the video!
Its very easy. Too easy honestly.
I watch you changing the stem 10 times and I did it on my cannondale cad 3 now it looks really cool thanks.
Nice and clear, thanks. About to replace the awful adjustable quill stem on my dad's hybrid and replace with with a threadless one. Not a job I've needed to do before and will probably never need to do it again.
And you're actually wearing shoes in this one! Good work, RJ ;-)
Thanks for the tutorial, I think I will use such an adaptor for my next project too, because it offers you a wide range of flared gravel bike dropbars
LBS: it'll take us a little while to do this, we gotta untape it and take the brake levers off, install it and then redo all the tape and levers...
RJ: I got this dremmel tool...
When I saw you cut the stem, I cried. I am trying to reverse my upgraded vintage bike back to its original state, but I have difficulty to get a quill stem. :D
ebay. Lots of them.
@@RJTheBikeGuyYep, but they'll get more expensive the rarer they get;va situation not helped by you wrecking a perfectly usable component. What a waste.
You can find an endless amount of quill stems for 5-20 bucks used. New ones from 25 ->. Really don’t see the problem
@@TheMusicrunner Presumably when he does a video on changing a tyre he'll bin the whole wheel as he can't be bothered to remove the old one and the tube!
The point is it was totally wasteful and lazy.
@@Penfold-zr2be Well, the other option is to waste the bar tape which is more expensive so...
I love how just sawed the old one off. I really didn't want to go through all that unwrapping!
Some people were irritated that I cut the stem. The tape would have cost $15-20 to replace. And I didn't really care about the stem.
RJ The Bike Guy Those fools have never watched a youtube video of someone unwrapping bar tape, then rewrap it, or even done it themsleves :P
Dude, thanks for all the videos. I stumbled on your channel a few days ago, and have found it to be an amazing resource! Keep it up!
Great videos sir and nice trek 1000. My first road was early 90s 1000, it was too big so sold it and got 2005 trek 1000c. Had it for 4 years and recently sold it. Now have 2013 1.5 trek. had a few other steel and alum road bikes which some i sold to friends (that got into cycling) and some online. I've always liked the trek designs n geometry. I hope you keep posting "how to videos" there really helpful. Ignore all the negative comments, they have nothing better to do than self-destruct. We call them haters. ✌
great video.I have some butterfly bars i have on my new bike which i find are convienient for hand positions and for putting mirrors etc.The old bike is a similar stem to this where have to slide the bars out.I can do this as they are straight bars but thanks for showing the process and for the stem adaptors.Anyone criticizing should go and pay a bike mechanic instead of moaning about free advice.
Perfect video, thanks! Please take no notice of the negative comments, let them waste their time anally retaining an obsolete piece.
thanks so much! just bought myself an old apollo raceline, and am in desperate need of a shorter and higher stem. This answered all my questions.
when I install a quill adapter I insert a shim that has slits into it that goes over the adapter but I put the spacers on it first. then I insert the adapter and place another shim into the stem fitting. doing it this way helps the adapter grip the inside of the forks steerer tube a lot better so the bars wont twist that easy.
Adjustable threaded quill stem is also a good idea, it's a bit heavier and a bit more expensive but it allows to adjust position at any time with just an allen wrench.
Love seeing your videos pop up on searches; always learn a bunch. Thanks!
Thanks for this. Gonna probably buy a cheap MTB with a quill stem, then replace it and change the forks!
just bought the exact same model bike from craigslist! very help video, thanks
RJ, the Stem terminator !
I always want to say thanks your videos are so helpful and interesting.
That awesome, I have no idea they made that adapter.
It look beautiful
That's a good tip..
Just cut that old stem..
Why save it.. when you got no use for it..plus spent extra dollars for new tape and all the extra hassle ?
Just cut the thing!
allis common sense there
You don't need a quill adapter, just a long enough fork and the appropriate size stem (usually 1 inch for old bikes that used threaded quill stems), or you can use a shim
Do these threadless adapters allow you to raise them for more height or must you push them all the way down in the headtube?
+ForbinColossus You can raise them, though they look wierd that way. You can also get a steeper angled threadless stem.
Is it important to take it apart every now and then to clean and apply fresh grease? if so how often should that be done?
If it feels rough, slow, loose, or whatever. Maybe if the bike is just old.
If anything happens with my old foldie's stem or headtube, I might have to do this.
Good to know that this specific Profile Design adapter still exists 11 years later! There are cheaper Chinese-made adapters, but would you really trust those in exchange for being slightly more expensive?
Unlike the haters I'm glad you cut through that stem. Going through the stuck quill stem right now. If and when I get it out I'm going to spend all day smashing it to pieces with a hammer #therapy :D
Did you see this video? ruclips.net/video/7GvN7w386U0/видео.html
I have another stuck stem on a bike I am working on now. I am going to try some different stuff to get it out.
+RJ The Bike Guy Yes I have been watching that video with great interest! I currently have it sitting upside down soaking in penetrating oil. I'd be very interested in any new methods you come up with
I am going to try boiling water and letting it heat/cool.
Can't believe he cut through it. Not a hater but I think that was lazy.
Thanks for the run through
Updating an old Bridgestone
Thanks for the video - very helpful.
Have you thought about spray painting the chrome bearing/fork nuts black underneath, make them a little less visible?
Tempted to do this to my wife's bike - the threadless stem looks a lot neater in my opinion.
Good job.
I love your vids RJ! Another great one. I’ve got a 7/8” quill stem on my old norco. Would this adapter still work?
That is called 1". (the steer is 1") And yes.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Thank you! You're a legend.
How do you know what size your stem is? I’ve been looking on replacing mine but don’t know what size to buy.
Would you be able to put spacers under the stem in order to raise the height? As it stands, it's a bit too low for me on my bike, or would the best be to get a stem that has a lot of rise in it?
Spacers don't fit well on most of these. But you can raise it like a regular quill stem. It just looks goofy.
I recommend every 6 months loosen and pull up the stem re grease and drop back in and tighten up. Just to maintain ease of removal etc
dude your videos are great thanks for all the help.got a restoration of my own and hope it looks as good as your does when its finished keep up the good work
Hey RJ I just came across this video. Great video. I have a vintage Schwinn Le Tour that needs some Wheels front and back. Can you recommend a set of wheels for me that will be appropriate size and and good strength with being to pricey. Everywhere I look everybody only has 700 size wheels.
how do I know the threadless stem fit on my bike?
awesome Video! I literally have the exact bike you do. And might fully restore it now. cheers
Go for it!
i guess i have to saw off my old quill stem because i dont think i'd want to take off my bar tape and shifters, slide the bars out and THEN reinstall everything. Aint nobody got time for that. Anyways helpful video! thanks shyflirt1
can you tell me what kind of stem &where you got it? Thank you.
It's a Bontrager. It came from another of my bikes when I replaced the stem. I think I originally got it at my local bike shop. Check ebay. You can get stems there pretty cheap.
thank you .Great videos!
Hello, as explained in other of your videos, I am designing a tilting rickshaw,... in the past I have had to deal with bicycles where it was almost impossible to keep the alignment of the wheel with the handlebar.... the question is, as in my design this part is subjected to stronger stress... (perhaps 10 times more)... how would you suggest to proceed, so to prevent loosing the alignment of the assembly... (the part in this case will be located in the rear of the vehicle, some 40 cm away from the bottom bracket)
Really appreciate your videos for us all, you helped me allot.
Thank you for this it helped me out a bunch on my craigslist Giant OCR find
This made my decision that much easier. May I ask what stem you used in the video?
Shrug. Just a threadless stem I had lying around. It needs to match the handlebar diameter. The other side is 1 1/8"
Rj men thank you bra....you channwl is my favorite.....am a champion cycle repairer becouse of your channel
Good tip on cutting the stem. There's a million bikes like that set out for the garbage, not like that stem has any value.
Good video. I'd cut the old stem too. That old stem is not some rare piece and worth much like some make it sound to be.
What?
Am I the only one crying over the quill stem. 😢
I have been trying to find a quill stem to convert my old roadster to a more aggressive and classic looking fixie and it just breaks my heart to see you cut through one. 😅😅😅
Nice work! Mine is an alloy Trek Alpha Series 1000 (circa late 90's, early millennia) that I'm converting to disc brakes. I saw your video with the adapters, but if a fork with tabs can be used, it's preferable to adapters. Understandably, newer headsets are thicker now, but was wondering if you had any ideas about marrying new forks to an older frame?
Great video, thanks RJ. Can you (or anybody) provide a link or name for that white rear-wheel support you are using to keep the bike upright?
Not really. It's an indoor trainer with the resistance part removed. Some one discarded it, and I claimed it.
Ha! Not surprising based on some of your other videos. Thanks for the response. Best wishes this holiday season!
Is there an easy way to install a threaded stem into a modern threadless bicycle? Or is that more costly?
You would have to replace the fork, headset, and stem.
@@RJTheBikeGuy thank you for the reply. This and the video was very helpful.
Can you put a spacer below the stem with this kind of adaptor?
Maybe.
What kind of grease did you use/recommend?
+Zalenski I typically use marine grease which doesn't break down when exposed to water.
I did the same conversion on my Vintage cannondale. Instead of cutting I just used a flat head screw driver and pried it up. Sacrifice play.
I knew you would have a video on this. Thanks so very very much!
Hahaha all these people commenting on you ditching the old stem. It's not vintage and it's up to the owner what he does with his stuff.
Hi, great video! May I ask though, would a black powder coated adapter be more resistant to said galvanic corrosion compared to a polished one like what you used?
Probably depends on the coating. The plain aluminum parts are clear anodized. Often colored aluminum parts are just anodized with dye.
can we convert ahead stem to quill?
No.
Didnt find some small fork to fit in so this is what I did. But my adapter is measured 22.2mm , it is so old lol.
I didn't even know such a thing existed I just bought a old nishiki to turn into a single speed. this will work great. I would cut this down as well it's not like it to a high dollar item or a rare campy model or something
Nice explanation and very good video skills too.
Thanks, I want to do the same thing and was a bit unsure!!!
I love how you say not important but cosmetic with regards to keeping the logo the right way up when you're taking out a rather attractive quill stem and swapping for that ugly contraption. However as you said it's functional and the video is well done and clearly explained so I'm not hating.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I like the look of threadless stems.
You are the best RJ !! Hey could I at the same time install a new head set for thread less steerer tube? as a 1" head set right?
Awesome, I have the same bike and need to replace my stem to adjust to my ride height. Awesome and thanks for the link.
I'll add a comment , as... , why not..
my stem is too short so looking for options on a commuter rather than a roadbike. If we use these adaptors can the stem be raised. With a quill for example you can pull it up out of the frame a bit. With modern fork \ headsets you can mess about with spacers. These adaptors do not have any vertical adjustment capable ?
thank you Sir.
Very well and understandable explained
Great video!
Could I use this adapter plus threadless stem to secure the old threaded headset with worn-out threads on the lowest of the two threaded headset rings? Bearings are still fine, so don't want to replace the whole headset. (So what I actually want is to secure the old fork and headset almost in the way a normal threadless fork and headset are being secured.)
The vintage goose stem is nicer and beautiful looks and durable than the treadless new stem.
The problem I have with this specific adapter is that it does not sit all the way into the steerer tube, but I suppose that's an issue with having a smaller frame. The other thing? They don't come in black. I'm actually putting this on something similar, a 92 1400, and the red with black and chrome looks a bit funky. I just really hate the exposed bit below the stem itself.
I think I may try the Origin8 one, all of the cheap chinese no name ones I have tried have been so poorly manufactured so I think it may be better getting one from an actually known company.
Exactly what i needed.Thanks! :)
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Vintage bikes have handlebar stems that are 25.4-26.0-26.4mm in diameter. Where did he get a threadless stem adapter that would accommodate one of these handlebars? I haven't seen a current model stem adapter that is anything but 31.8mm. He should have spent some time on this question.
The adapter doesn't connect to the handlebars. It's the threadless stem. They make threadless stems for 25.4 and 26mm. Not sure about 26.4.
My mistake! I meant to say that vintage handlebars are 25.4-26.0-26.4mm (old Cinelli standard) in diameter and that the only modern stems I'd seen only accept 31.8mm handlebars. After my comment, with a little more research, I found that some companies do make a threadless handlebar stem that accepts 26.0mm handlebars. And, of course, there are shims that will allow a 26.0mm handlebar to be used with a threadless stem that is intended for handlebars with a 31.8mm diameter.
I need to reread my posts more carefully in the future.
I have an excellent handlebar from the early '90s that I would like to use if possible. Its diameter is 26.4mm and I wonder if a threadless stem intended for 31.8mm handlebars would accept this handlebar plus shims that would increase the effective handlebar diameter to maybe 32.0mm would be practical. Any thoughts?
To further clarify: I'm talking about shims that are intended for a 26.0mm bar that bring the bar's effective diameter to 31.8mm. With a bar that has a 26.4mm diameter, the shims would bring the effective diameter to, maybe, 32.0mm.
Find a solution, or use a different handlebar.
I would love to keep my quill stem, and replace the threaded fork, but I find it very hard to find 1 inch threaded fork, regardless it is carbon or steel or aluminium. Can I perhaps make a threadless to threaded?
1" threaded forks are very common. Not sure why you can't find them.
Would you be able to re-use the old brakes if you would put modern handlebars on when converting quill stem to threadless?
Usually yes.
I have a specialized rockhopper think it's a 95 I want to change the steam would this work for my bike?
Probably.
What are advanfages and disadvanfages of threadless stem over quill stem?
Can't you replace the entire fork or are the newer ones too big in size???
The diameter of the steerer tube on most threaded forks is 1". The diameter on a threadless fork is 1 1/8". So not only would you need to replace the fork, but also the headset...if you can find one to fit.
RJ, can you get the new stems that fit older handlebar diameters?
Probably.
Hi, Thank you for the video. Does this make the stem stiffer?
Depends on the before and after stems. If they are the same stiffness, it doesn't make a difference.