The insulation may not do what you want. The radiant part only works when you have an air gap over the reflective surface otherwise it just acts as a conductor. The foam core has an R value of 5 per inch.
If you have any air gap between the insulation and the steel you WILL get condensation form. There are special paints that are designed to deal with the issue but they are very expensive....one solution that works extremely well is to glue a closed cell foam directly to all the steel surfaces. This prevents any moisture being able to form on the steel behind your insulation and eventually cause corrosion. Remember steel boats rust from the inside out. Once you have a bonded costing of closed cell foam you can use a number of products to provide more thermal insulation value.....but pleae check that the product you use can not hold water.....
The 3 tc is ok if you can stop it from bubbling, on metal next to impossible, polyurethane spray on for cool storage and freezers is by far the most effective method for the job , plus when wiring your boat you can cut channels for conduit to lay in and run wires through it with inspection points every so often, this way you keep everything neat and tidy and easier to maintain, hopefully you will read the comments before you advance to far , reading the comments has been a real eye opener, you are lucky having so many switched on people following you , keep up the great work all the best from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺
I would guess that you are well into it with your electric cabling, but you should consider large conduit with a permanent draw wire for future upgrades, Just a thought. All looking good though.
I used a similar product to this in a steel boat but what I did was I attached it to the back of the interior as it went in so there was an air gap to the hull all the wiring was there and it worked as an extra moisture barrier between the cabin interior and hull. I could remove parts of the interior to inspect the hull. This is also great for the floor as the hull and bilge are uninsulated but the bottom of the floor sole was insulated, this was great for beer can's stored under the floor. What you have done works but this is for others following you far less cutting when attaching to the back of the modular interior pieces. Yes I an sure you will hate me for this suggestion now. With steel boats (I have had two) you need to let the water get down to the bilge and not be trapped between surfaces or fairing compound. I learned that from my first boat I called it Jessica after an ex, she was always demanding money and mistakes or forgetting to do or check something was expencive, just like the boat and both had beautiful lines and every imperfection was hidden. Anyway both Jessica's had to go as I wanted something better but cheaper so not as finished and I did the work. Much better yacht and it was never named after an ex :D
😂😂 Smart to name your new boat after something that has more longevity. We did consider doing that as well but the company 3TC instructed us to apply it this way. That being said, all of these wonderful suggestions in the comments have us thinking and we are scheduling a call with their engineers to clear up these questions. We will definitely do the same as you did with the floor. We want to have some cool storage in the bilge as well. And let's see after the call what we will do with the hull! Thanks for your great feedback!! Super helpful! Cheers ⛵️🙏
Wow, the 3TC is so easy to cut making the job less time consuming. You guys are doing a great and thorough job on Lahakai, she'll be your home for the future and can't wait to see her sailing. Thanks for sharing, really exciting episode!
It's very interesting right?? It's so flexible and durable. We were able to install it and remove it very easily. Let's see how this space tech holds up! Thanks for tuning in as always!! Cheers
@@lahakai Actually, I think your video production has been excellent from the very first episode. One (or both) of you must have some media experience. Your scripts are well-designed. The editing and transitions are top notch. The narration is very professional. The episodes flow very naturally, which is difficult to accomplish. The graphics are imaginative. I thoroughly enjoy every episode you publish. Thank you for sharing your journey. Sorry you have had to endure so many bumps in the road. Can't wait to see what you do with this blank canvas.
3M adhesive spray works well on that insulation for stuff that needs extra support. They also have a wire type insulation hanger, that just jams between wood rafters, but figure that would scratch the paint. Think just a dab of spray on the corners would hold the rood stuff in place.
Great suggestion! We are looking into a way to adhere it without being destructive to the paint if we do want to check behind it. We'll look into this. Thanks!
How cool! We haven’t seen these before. Almost certain they are not available in Brazil but we will look them up. Maybe we can install them in our next refit 😉
I'm wondering if the insulation shouldn't be glued on its entire surface to the boat to avoid empty spaces between the insulation and the hull, where the condensation will appear and moisture will start the rust. That will ruin all your efforts. Maybe better would be the foam sprayed on the hull directly. or just use waterproof contact glue on the entire surface of the insulation. Good luck with your project! Greetings from Poland.
Было бы хорошо, ставить все провода в гофрированной трубы чтоб на будущее иметь возможность менять их без разборки ))) я бы так сделал , но у вас и так всё прекрасно, мне очень нравится как получается!! Молодцы 😊❤
Да! Спасибо! Мы будем делать это. Пока мы просто измеряли все провода, чтобы увидеть, куда они идут. Затем мы подобрали нейтральные провода и теперь посмотрим, какого размера и какие провода нам нужны и где. Мы хотим хорошо согласовать это с Mobili Mare, чтобы у нас было несколько точек доступа к проводам после того, как они установят древесину. Спасибо, что следите за мной!! (Мы используем Google Translate, поэтому извините, если что-то не так).
I have a question. The insulation is against the hill so you still have an air space so you will still get condensation. Can the condensation run down into the bilge or will the stringers hold it? If so you have a problem. It would have been easier to leave the air gap and finish the interior with insulated panels???
Good question because this was the original issue the boat had and the main reason it had so many issues. All of the longitudinal stiffeners that we replaced were predrilled to allow water to pass in case of moisture and such. The ones we didn't replace were drilled as well. We will call the company again to hear what their suggestions on this or if their product helps reduce or eliminate condensation as well. Thanks for your help!! Cheers!
Just a thought. Have you spoken to odd life crafting or artic alluring sailing. ( or alluring artic sailing)They both have steel boats. One is in the Caribbean and the other is in the Artic. I’m sure they both have insights into this issue.
We are friends with Odd and ask them advice every now and then. They have been very helpful! We'll see what happens if we send a message to Arctic alluring as well! Cheers
Yes, the company says this can work for fiberglass boats, residential housing, RVs, freezer trucks, you name it. Once we're in the water we will give a full review on the performance so look out for that in the future!
That's a lot of work... insulation and the wiring..... But then you will always know where the wires are going and for which installation they are meant. It is incredible what you already reached restoring the rusting hull into Lahakai. And a great thank you for the glimpse of the Ocean Race boats. Those are a very different kind of boat. I'm wondering if sometimes in the far future somebody will convert one of those into a cruising boat, just like Matt in the The Duracell Project www.youtube.com/@TheDuracellProject Until then I will enjoy seeing those boats in a few weeks while I'm at vacation near Århus in Denmark.
Não se usa isolamento térmico abaixo da linha d’água, pois a temperatura da água sempre vai estar acima de zero. A não ser que vocês pretendam fazer como o Amir Klink que projetou seu barco para ser congelado tanto dos lados como embaixo dele.
You do realize that there's a certain type of spray foam to use for insulation purposes. The white/yellow stuff in a can isn't what's supposed to be used. Here in America the spray foam insulation is the best thing to use if you can afford it. It blocks all 3 forms of heat or cold transfer. This is how in humid places like Florida they can have a very efficient home and same goes with cold climates. I wouldn't use blanket insulation aka fiberglass, wool,recycled blue jeans etc due to the mold issue. I live in the northern midwest area of America where we have 4 seasons and my information is based upon what I've read and what I've experienced
Hi, please don't insulate under the waterline. Insulate under sole . Seal frames using neoprene layer on frames before fixing wood preframe . Just so you know credentials ,I'm a boat builder of 35 yrs , building steel boats . I CMarine Services UK Southampton registered with companies House. In doning under waterline your hold water and damage won't be visible until to late. Held water can rot a 6 mm plate in 2 yrs , epoxyed as well
Thanks for your feedback! So we knew about the waterline rule before but we were in doubts about it because this is a new product and it claims to essentially stop conduction and be completely waterproof. We're going to contact the manufacturers and talk to their engineers to get more info but any insights on this is welcome!
I hate it when people use that false term of "measure twice and cut once," because it never seems to work for me. My motto is, measure 3 times, then give the bloody tape to my son, because I'm gonna stuff it up anyway! 🤣🤣🤣
Hey guys. I’m building a steel boat from scratch. You insulate the bottom of your sole, not the hull below waterline. What if you get a puncture below the waterline? Your insulation will prevent you from sealing the hole. Also, don’t run wiring between the ribs and hull. What if you bump a rock? It will cut your cables.
Thanks for the advice! We were looking into some of the reasonings behind why people don't insulate below the waterline, so we are happy you wrote here. Our questions was if it was just not to allow the insulation to be damp or wet and since this is waterproof we were in doubts where to put it. But your explication makes perfect sense! We're making adjustments! Also for the wires, check out our episode today, we're working on this as well! Thanks again, cheers!
Is not this a question of where you would like condenzation to happen…? Where you sail and how you handle the water that then is produced? Keep in mind that that many materials used for boat building have isolating abilities (such as wood, and any core material) very different from steel with workshop as a heat conductor. Most of these boats have no added insolation…
We looked this up and it’s very interesting! Looks like the technology is still developing huh? We assume this would cost a pretty penny here in Brazil 😬
its will be dangerous to place the electric cables between the hull and the rips, if there coms pressure from water or you have an incident the cables can be squeezet and perhaps will be destroyed.
![How we made our Sailboat's Engine 50% quieter - [Ryan's Tech Corner]](/img/1.gif)
Steel and aluminium can get you galvanic corrosion. Don't insulate below the water-line. Insulate the floor instead. Great job. Love the channel👍
The insulation may not do what you want. The radiant part only works when you have an air gap over the reflective surface otherwise it just acts as a conductor. The foam core has an R value of 5 per inch.
If you have any air gap between the insulation and the steel you WILL get condensation form. There are special paints that are designed to deal with the issue but they are very expensive....one solution that works extremely well is to glue a closed cell foam directly to all the steel surfaces. This prevents any moisture being able to form on the steel behind your insulation and eventually cause corrosion.
Remember steel boats rust from the inside out.
Once you have a bonded costing of closed cell foam you can use a number of products to provide more thermal insulation value.....but pleae check that the product you use can not hold water.....
The 3 tc is ok if you can stop it from bubbling, on metal next to impossible, polyurethane spray on for cool storage and freezers is by far the most effective method for the job , plus when wiring your boat you can cut channels for conduit to lay in and run wires through it with inspection points every so often, this way you keep everything neat and tidy and easier to maintain, hopefully you will read the comments before you advance to far , reading the comments has been a real eye opener, you are lucky having so many switched on people following you , keep up the great work all the best from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺
I would guess that you are well into it with your electric cabling, but you should consider large conduit with a permanent draw wire for future upgrades, Just a thought. All looking good though.
Congrats guys, Lahakai will look amazing!
Thanks so much! Best is yet to come 😉
I used a similar product to this in a steel boat but what I did was I attached it to the back of the interior as it went in so there was an air gap to the hull all the wiring was there and it worked as an extra moisture barrier between the cabin interior and hull. I could remove parts of the interior to inspect the hull. This is also great for the floor as the hull and bilge are uninsulated but the bottom of the floor sole was insulated, this was great for beer can's stored under the floor.
What you have done works but this is for others following you far less cutting when attaching to the back of the modular interior pieces. Yes I an sure you will hate me for this suggestion now.
With steel boats (I have had two) you need to let the water get down to the bilge and not be trapped between surfaces or fairing compound. I learned that from my first boat I called it Jessica after an ex, she was always demanding money and mistakes or forgetting to do or check something was expencive, just like the boat and both had beautiful lines and every imperfection was hidden.
Anyway both Jessica's had to go as I wanted something better but cheaper so not as finished and I did the work. Much better yacht and it was never named after an ex :D
😂😂 Smart to name your new boat after something that has more longevity.
We did consider doing that as well but the company 3TC instructed us to apply it this way. That being said, all of these wonderful suggestions in the comments have us thinking and we are scheduling a call with their engineers to clear up these questions. We will definitely do the same as you did with the floor. We want to have some cool storage in the bilge as well. And let's see after the call what we will do with the hull!
Thanks for your great feedback!! Super helpful! Cheers ⛵️🙏
yeah, boats and women are like that...demanding and expensive. In life it seems that going for an older model does not cost as much (boats and women)
Wow, the 3TC is so easy to cut making the job less time consuming. You guys are doing a great and thorough job on Lahakai, she'll be your home for the future and can't wait to see her sailing. Thanks for sharing, really exciting episode!
It's very interesting right?? It's so flexible and durable. We were able to install it and remove it very easily. Let's see how this space tech holds up! Thanks for tuning in as always!! Cheers
3tc seems like a nice product to work with. Love the progress. 👍😎
You two are amazing, luv watching your videos. 😊😊😊😊😊🇬🇧👍🏻
Loving your channel and the high video production values.
Thanks so much! We're working hard to always improve our quality! We're so glad you are liking our videos 🙌🙏
@@lahakai Actually, I think your video production has been excellent from the very first episode. One (or both) of you must have some media experience. Your scripts are well-designed. The editing and transitions are top notch. The narration is very professional. The episodes flow very naturally, which is difficult to accomplish. The graphics are imaginative. I thoroughly enjoy every episode you publish. Thank you for sharing your journey. Sorry you have had to endure so many bumps in the road. Can't wait to see what you do with this blank canvas.
One more awsome video... can't wait to see this boat float... but one step at a time... 💙
Little by little right! Then we will celebrate with a BBQ when she's in the water 😉😉
@@lahakai we will also celebrate our house soon i hope...
3M adhesive spray works well on that insulation for stuff that needs extra support. They also have a wire type insulation hanger, that just jams between wood rafters, but figure that would scratch the paint. Think just a dab of spray on the corners would hold the rood stuff in place.
Great suggestion! We are looking into a way to adhere it without being destructive to the paint if we do want to check behind it. We'll look into this. Thanks!
kinetic switches could reduce wiring considerably. Available for 12/24vdc.
How cool! We haven’t seen these before. Almost certain they are not available in Brazil but we will look them up. Maybe we can install them in our next refit 😉
pull a strong line along with the wires in case you have to add more power.
I respect your absolutely no shortcuts approach.
🙏 We're learning a lot on the way and trying to steer in the right direction! Cheers!
the electrical cable is not piped so that it is safe there will be no short circuit. the ship's body is made of iron
I'm wondering if the insulation shouldn't be glued on its entire surface to the boat to avoid empty spaces between the insulation and the hull, where the condensation will appear and moisture will start the rust. That will ruin all your efforts. Maybe better would be the foam sprayed on the hull directly. or just use waterproof contact glue on the entire surface of the insulation.
Good luck with your project! Greetings from Poland.
i hope you are going to remove the wire between the hull plate and frame because if you take a hit it will cut those wire like a pair of wire cutters
Было бы хорошо, ставить все провода в гофрированной трубы чтоб на будущее иметь возможность менять их без разборки ))) я бы так сделал , но у вас и так всё прекрасно, мне очень нравится как получается!! Молодцы 😊❤
Да! Спасибо! Мы будем делать это. Пока мы просто измеряли все провода, чтобы увидеть, куда они идут. Затем мы подобрали нейтральные провода и теперь посмотрим, какого размера и какие провода нам нужны и где. Мы хотим хорошо согласовать это с Mobili Mare, чтобы у нас было несколько точек доступа к проводам после того, как они установят древесину. Спасибо, что следите за мной!! (Мы используем Google Translate, поэтому извините, если что-то не так).
With the hard chines of the hull do you have any idea what your hull speed will be?
I like your fortitude. Keep it up.😇. 🚣🏼♂️
will you have problems with dissimilar metals where the insulation is covered with tin??
nice idol🎉
Looks nice in silver
Rather futuristic right?! 😄
I have a question. The insulation is against the hill so you still have an air space so you will still get condensation. Can the condensation run down into the bilge or will the stringers hold it? If so you have a problem.
It would have been easier to leave the air gap and finish the interior with insulated panels???
Good question because this was the original issue the boat had and the main reason it had so many issues. All of the longitudinal stiffeners that we replaced were predrilled to allow water to pass in case of moisture and such. The ones we didn't replace were drilled as well. We will call the company again to hear what their suggestions on this or if their product helps reduce or eliminate condensation as well. Thanks for your help!! Cheers!
Just a thought. Have you spoken to odd life crafting or artic alluring sailing. ( or alluring artic sailing)They both have steel boats. One is in the Caribbean and the other is in the Artic. I’m sure they both have insights into this issue.
We are friends with Odd and ask them advice every now and then. They have been very helpful! We'll see what happens if we send a message to Arctic alluring as well! Cheers
Don’t worry guys, this will all be worth it when you’re chilling in your rust free, well insulated boat on a Caribbean beach!
Oh, that would be wonderful!! We'd love to be in the Caribbean right now! 😆 soon soon!!
Can it be used in fiberglass boats.?
Yes, the company says this can work for fiberglass boats, residential housing, RVs, freezer trucks, you name it. Once we're in the water we will give a full review on the performance so look out for that in the future!
That's a lot of work... insulation and the wiring..... But then you will always know where the wires are going and for which installation they are meant. It is incredible what you already reached restoring the rusting hull into Lahakai.
And a great thank you for the glimpse of the Ocean Race boats. Those are a very different kind of boat. I'm wondering if sometimes in the far future somebody will convert one of those into a cruising boat, just like Matt in the The Duracell Project www.youtube.com/@TheDuracellProject
Until then I will enjoy seeing those boats in a few weeks while I'm at vacation near Århus in Denmark.
Não se usa isolamento térmico abaixo da linha d’água, pois a temperatura da água sempre vai estar acima de zero. A não ser que vocês pretendam fazer como o Amir Klink que projetou seu barco para ser congelado tanto dos lados como embaixo dele.
Do you need to stick the stuff on with something?
We are looking into this! For now we were just cutting everything to size.
Estão a colocar lã de vidro como isolamento?
The insulation looks great my only concern is the aluminium foil on the outside of the insulation against the steel hull
You do realize that there's a certain type of spray foam to use for insulation purposes. The white/yellow stuff in a can isn't what's supposed to be used. Here in America the spray foam insulation is the best thing to use if you can afford it. It blocks all 3 forms of heat or cold transfer. This is how in humid places like Florida they can have a very efficient home and same goes with cold climates. I wouldn't use blanket insulation aka fiberglass, wool,recycled blue jeans etc due to the mold issue. I live in the northern midwest area of America where we have 4 seasons and my information is based upon what I've read and what I've experienced
Hi, please don't insulate under the waterline. Insulate under sole . Seal frames using neoprene layer on frames before fixing wood preframe . Just so you know credentials ,I'm a boat builder of 35 yrs , building steel boats . I CMarine Services UK Southampton registered with companies House. In doning under waterline your hold water and damage won't be visible until to late. Held water can rot a 6 mm plate in 2 yrs , epoxyed as well
Thanks for your feedback! So we knew about the waterline rule before but we were in doubts about it because this is a new product and it claims to essentially stop conduction and be completely waterproof. We're going to contact the manufacturers and talk to their engineers to get more info but any insights on this is welcome!
You should really think about the impact of condensation.
👍👍👍✨️❤️
Why so thin isolation?
I've been looking into aerogel insulation! Might be worth to check out!
😃😃😃👍💪🤛🤛🤛
I hate it when people use that false term of "measure twice and cut once," because it never seems to work for me. My motto is, measure 3 times, then give the bloody tape to my son, because I'm gonna stuff it up anyway! 🤣🤣🤣
Hey guys. I’m building a steel boat from scratch. You insulate the bottom of your sole, not the hull below waterline. What if you get a puncture below the waterline? Your insulation will prevent you from sealing the hole. Also, don’t run wiring between the ribs and hull. What if you bump a rock? It will cut your cables.
Thanks for the advice! We were looking into some of the reasonings behind why people don't insulate below the waterline, so we are happy you wrote here. Our questions was if it was just not to allow the insulation to be damp or wet and since this is waterproof we were in doubts where to put it. But your explication makes perfect sense! We're making adjustments! Also for the wires, check out our episode today, we're working on this as well! Thanks again, cheers!
I hate to tell you all this, that insulation below waterline will cause very bad condensation and you will ruin the boat. Trust me I know.
Is not this a question of where you would like condenzation to happen…? Where you sail and how you handle the water that then is produced? Keep in mind that that many materials used for boat building have isolating abilities (such as wood, and any core material) very different from steel with workshop as a heat conductor. Most of these boats have no added insolation…
Aerogel insulation is the answer for your boat in order to avoid thermal bridges…
We looked this up and it’s very interesting! Looks like the technology is still developing huh? We assume this would cost a pretty penny here in Brazil 😬
E as legendas em português?
Ola Alberto tudo bem? Estamos fazendo, logo estará disponível e te avisamos. Obrigada
você pode colocar a traduçao automica da legenda no parametros, funciona bem
Ola Alberto, legendas ativadas. Muito obrigada por assistir :)
That has almost zero R value
Жаль что вы не бросили эту некрасивую лодку
its will be dangerous to place the electric cables between the hull and the rips, if there coms pressure from water or you have an incident the cables can be squeezet and perhaps will be destroyed.
We haven’t installed any wires yet. We just measured them and calculated placement. Finding the right conduits are next!