If you talk about film, any film, you must show some sample images, 4 or 5 is enough, otherwise this is just talk. Tests have been done on HP5+ and the True Speed of the film is 160 asa. The same applies to Tri-X.
Tri-X does in fact include directions and timings for pushing all the way up to 3200. The instructions to push to 800 are to simply underexpose by 1 stop and develop normally with some loss of shadow detail. 1600 and 3200 require push development above that.
True, those are the instructions. I have read the instructions. I was pointing out that I don't like the instructions. I think that they are silly. When one underexposes the film by a stop and then does not change anything about the development time then you are not pushing the film (push meaning change the development time). Basically, the instructions are to not push the film and use the film exposure latitude to get the shot. If it works for you and you like the look, then great keep on shooting that way. However, I was trying to make the point that you or any black and white film shooter should consider shooting HP5+, particularly if you find yourself in situations where 400 is not fast enough, but 800 iso might work. In my experience tri-x is muddy and flat when you (under)expose at 800 iso, while HP5+ at 800 iso has slightly more grain, and contrast. Bottom line: I like the look of HP5+ pushed to 800 iso.
good podcast dude .... interesting. comments and point of views ... I agree .. 800 is good general speed to use .. especially in dark winter days ... I pushed most films to 800 over winter ... tmax - Tri-x and the Ilford offerings ...
Hey Doctor Gregory I just wanted to take out the time to tell you Thank You for everything. And being Me and my son Doctor Thank you for delivering my son that mean a lot to me. Your are the best and wonderful doctor ❤️😊 I could ever think of I appreciate everything you have done for me and my little boy I am going to truly Miss You Doctor Gregory.
HP5 is my go to 35mm, I'm not a 35mm colour film shooter and a roll of Ektar can last for forever. I mainly use it at box speed as I do most films, but I will occasionally push it and I use DD-X to develop it if I do. My usual developer was Rodinal for the longest time, but I had 12 litres worth of D-76 given to me and I am beginning to like it. I like the tonal range of Acros, but it’s nearly twice the price of HP5 plus.
Peter Pandaluki I definitely agree with you for pushed film. I’m blaming my older brother for my preferences, in the mid 70s it was all he could afford and me only in my early teens I couldn’t afford anything except to pay said brother 10p a roll of film. He must have made a fortune out of me as I used a 50:1 dilution.
Tri-X pushes better. When you push, you mainly push the shoulder, that is you skew the exposure curve. You can push the toe too by preflashing just before exposure or make your own flasher a la the ArriFlex. This improves shadow detail a lot and practically gets rid of reciprocity failure.
Кино
If you talk about film, any film, you must show some sample images, 4 or 5 is enough, otherwise this is just talk. Tests have been done on HP5+ and the True Speed of the film is 160 asa. The same applies to Tri-X.
mamiyapress oh no!! They dropped the speed...
Tri-X does in fact include directions and timings for pushing all the way up to 3200. The instructions to push to 800 are to simply underexpose by 1 stop and develop normally with some loss of shadow detail. 1600 and 3200 require push development above that.
True, those are the instructions. I have read the instructions. I was pointing out that I don't like the instructions. I think that they are silly. When one underexposes the film by a stop and then does not change anything about the development time then you are not pushing the film (push meaning change the development time). Basically, the instructions are to not push the film and use the film exposure latitude to get the shot. If it works for you and you like the look, then great keep on shooting that way. However, I was trying to make the point that you or any black and white film shooter should consider shooting HP5+, particularly if you find yourself in situations where 400 is not fast enough, but 800 iso might work. In my experience tri-x is muddy and flat when you (under)expose at 800 iso, while HP5+ at 800 iso has slightly more grain, and contrast. Bottom line: I like the look of HP5+ pushed to 800 iso.
good podcast dude .... interesting. comments and point of views ... I agree .. 800 is good general speed to use .. especially in dark winter days ... I pushed most films to 800 over winter ... tmax - Tri-x and the Ilford offerings ...
Hello. The developer and the dilution you use also have a lot of influence on the grain, contrast and sharp. Hug
Great video 👍
Hey Doctor Gregory I just wanted to take out the time to tell you Thank You for everything. And being Me and my son Doctor Thank you for delivering my son that mean a lot to me. Your are the best and wonderful doctor ❤️😊 I could ever think of I appreciate everything you have done for me and my little boy I am going to truly Miss You Doctor Gregory.
HP5 is my go to 35mm, I'm not a 35mm colour film shooter and a roll of Ektar can last for forever. I mainly use it at box speed as I do most films, but I will occasionally push it and I use DD-X to develop it if I do. My usual developer was Rodinal for the longest time, but I had 12 litres worth of D-76 given to me and I am beginning to like it. I like the tonal range of Acros, but it’s nearly twice the price of HP5 plus.
Mark Harris
I find HP5 in Rodinal a step too far for grain.
Peter Pandaluki I definitely agree with you for pushed film. I’m blaming my older brother for my preferences, in the mid 70s it was all he could afford and me only in my early teens I couldn’t afford anything except to pay said brother 10p a roll of film. He must have made a fortune out of me as I used a 50:1 dilution.
Tri-X pushes better. When you push, you mainly push the shoulder, that is you skew the exposure curve. You can push the toe too by preflashing just before exposure or make your own flasher a la the ArriFlex. This improves shadow detail a lot and practically gets rid of reciprocity failure.
I prefer the grain of HP5 and Tri-X in medium format film. With 35mm the grain is too much for me.