talent and attention to detail. taking a bit more time to get the _right_ tool for the job, using it correctly and not bashing everything is an example of that. 😽👍
Great video and tool tips, and awesome to help out family! Seems like dealers (especially of more expensive marque vehicles) really like to drain their customer's wallets.
Excellent tutorial! And that was a really good explanation of how an impact driver works! I never had much success with an impact driver… Now I’m thinking perhaps that was because I was using a low end impact driver, rather than because the tool concept was overhyped.
I just recently did that with my hazet 1/4 bit ratchet I paid $90 for. Was seriously upset until I found it a week later, was really hard on myself! Some things I could care less about and waste money but if I lose a tool I can’t live with myself.
Just got ripped off on my Audi by not knowing how to work on it/doing research. Some people can afford to pay whatever to maintain a luxury car others just trying to get by. Respect for helping those that don’t have 5000 laying around to waste. I Had to pay $5,000 for new engine. The engine wasn’t rebuilt so the 2.0l problems were instant with the warranty not covering leaks. Whatever that means. $5000 for the engine $550 for the oil filter housing gasket replaced. Still have leaks across the top of the block and a car that’s worth $8,000 max and still not that nice. Over 60k miles I’ve put 2 water pumps, brakes+rotors, alternator, new engine, and the cars still a piece of work and probably needs a lot more. They told me old engine didn’t have compression anymore. Which it just needed an alternator coils, vacuum gasket, upper timing chain cover gasket replaced and I would’ve been fine. “New engine” had 6 month warranty 3 for labor and still had to shell out more cash. I got played heavy by a mechanic who thought audi = money
The cost sounds right for that job, but their lack of proper diag would’ve sent me out too. Maybe they offered the owner the diag fee and then they left? Either way, if the tech fucks up extracting the plug then the car would’ve really had to stay, not surprised they didn’t try
Yeah I’m surprised they we’re draining it from the bottom.. I would have thought they would be oil extracting from the dip tube? Well another save the day video .. I gotta start using that valve grinding compound.. like you refer to. So from my estimation there wasn’t anything wrong with that oil pan why couldn’t you have told this incompetent shop that they stripped out the plug? And they couldn’t have tried to remove it? Looks like the hex insert was rounded out by an impact or electric ratchet because the mechanic didn’t know what they were doing and probably didn’t have the right tool. I agree with all the comments “ it’s getter more and more difficult to find quality and honest shops” dealerships are now referred to as stealerships and INDY shops (not your city) but the independent shops are a gamble. Just a great video as always.. would love a part number on that vintage extraction set 👍🏻
the linear force of the hammer blow is _transformed_ as rotational force, you'd have to hammer away multiple times with a big hammer to break the pan but methinks that you'll probably only mangle the thread before anything else breaks. 😼
Lmaooooo bro are they using a boldozer to take out that oil pan? 5k for labor JESUS Man in todays world with all the internet knowledge and tools at reasonable prices, ill tell you what. I had a air intake boot that had a rip to it, that's where my DIY began... One thing for anyone doing dyi or thinking about it, always do Theral research, and yall its sooo important to get the correct part, and get a good quality part from a reputable brand. One thing you dont go cheap on is the part. Saves you allot of headaches and redoing the whole process and invest in a good obd scanner none of that 50 crap imo. And another thing, on my wifes 2017 vw jetta, 55k waterpump and thermostat started leaking, they quoted lil over 2k... i said sure buddy. 2 hours time, and 1600$ in my pocket. I am eastern european so naturally back home you dont have many shops at all you are the mechanic LOL. But yeah you save allot of money, and you know the job you have done.
Sir I have a 2011 a4 that I have quite a bit of work I have to do. Is there any chance you could email me when you have time and answer some questions I have. Would be more than willing to send pictures and videos of whatever you need to see. I have a code reader (shit icarsoft scanner but it’s better than going to auto zone whenever I have a code to read) plan is to carbon clean, replace intake manifold, replace fuel injectors, replace cat with high flow, new turbo hardware and gaskets, new exhaust manifold hardware and gaskets, stock k03, getting aluminum water pump and new tensioner pulley. Also have new diverter valve going on Would appreciate some guidance from an experienced hand if I run into a tight spot.
The digital dipstick is a liter right? I was at the low on the car/oil level setting. Put 300ml of liqui moly motor oil saver. Engine smoking now and noticing coolant levels draining. Do you think it’s from coolant or adding to much oil? Check Engine lights on
@@NaptownTuner thanks! Will have to take it to a shop and Hope They properly diagnose it. Not many mechanics want to take these on and out time into it. On my 3rd water pump 2 aluminum housing. 1 installed improperly 1 lasted 2 years. Just had engine replaced and noticed engine coolant won’t stay in reservoir. Shop won’t fix there mistake and I wouldn’t trust them to. A good honest fair priced Mechanics ishard to find. Had one person refuse to touch the water pump because they said they can’t warranty a faulty piece that takes 8 hours to repair.
That would be reasonable according to dealer labor and parts, only thing they f’d up was diagnosing correctly before shotgunning the job (maybe they tried selling diagnosis? We don’t know the full story). It’s not a simple unscrew bolts and pull pan in 30 minutes kinda job
I bet the shop could have done this repair but simply wanted to make a huge profit, being that the owner drives a Porsche they probably thought he’s a wealthy snob who can afford to pay $5k
Ok, you got the drain plug to come out. Let's ignore that the vehicle still has an oil leak. I've "did the customer a favor" and got blamed for additional problems. The owner is a relative, who is this person more likely to blame when they DO notice a leak in the driveway, you or a deep pocket shop? If you have worked on a lot of highline vehicles, you have heard "ever since you". The correct repair is to fix the leaks. I don't blame the tech for covering their backside.
When you see an oil leak you note it on the ticket, that covers your backside. They didn’t get paid to diagnose the oil leak, they didn’t diagnose the oil leak, they refused the oil change and quoted the pan based on the plug alone. Maybe it needs one, we’ll find out when I work on it next, it’s not a priority because it’s not bad enough to drip on the floor yet but the valve covers will be done first along with washing the engine. The quote says “may need additional parts”. That’s the shop covering their backside. I’m not saying they are right or wrong, really doesn’t matter to me by other people like to know what happens in these situations. Some shops won’t take any easy risks.
Dealer seem increasingly incompetent to me these days.
This is why talent comes into play in distinguishing a regular dealer tech and someone like Nap...
talent and attention to detail. taking a bit more time to get the _right_ tool for the job, using it correctly and not bashing everything is an example of that. 😽👍
You give a new meaning to Family First. Naptown turner. Now he owes you a good Steak and Beer 🍺.
An oil extractor is much cheaper than $5K.
Great video and tool tips, and awesome to help out family! Seems like dealers (especially of more expensive marque vehicles) really like to drain their customer's wallets.
Excellent tutorial! And that was a really good explanation of how an impact driver works! I never had much success with an impact driver… Now I’m thinking perhaps that was because I was using a low end impact driver, rather than because the tool concept was overhyped.
The valve grinding compound is a cool trick, thanks.
Nice solution, love the use of the impact driver!
Great advice. 👍 I now see a reason to pick up an impact driver.
Love those extractors. I misplaced mine one time and lost my shit for like 3 months until they turned up.
I just recently did that with my hazet 1/4 bit ratchet I paid $90 for. Was seriously upset until I found it a week later, was really hard on myself! Some things I could care less about and waste money but if I lose a tool I can’t live with myself.
Just got ripped off on my Audi by not knowing how to work on it/doing research.
Some people can afford to pay whatever to maintain a luxury car others just trying to get by. Respect for helping those that don’t have 5000 laying around to waste. I Had to pay $5,000 for new engine. The engine wasn’t rebuilt so the 2.0l problems were instant with the warranty not covering leaks. Whatever that means.
$5000 for the engine $550 for the oil filter housing gasket replaced. Still have leaks across the top of the block and a car that’s worth $8,000 max and still not that nice. Over 60k miles I’ve put 2 water pumps, brakes+rotors, alternator, new engine, and the cars still a piece of work and probably needs a lot more. They told me old engine didn’t have compression anymore. Which it just needed an alternator coils, vacuum gasket, upper timing chain cover gasket replaced and I would’ve been fine. “New engine” had 6 month warranty 3 for labor and still had to shell out more cash. I got played heavy by a mechanic who thought audi = money
maybe you also played yourself by buying an audi in the first place? 🤔
@@kittytrail sure.. got a solid 50,000 miles. They are a fun car to drive when they work.
@@benkohout6495 pt barnum was oh so right... 😹
Good video. Look forward to future videos solving the oil leak.
The cost sounds right for that job, but their lack of proper diag would’ve sent me out too. Maybe they offered the owner the diag fee and then they left? Either way, if the tech fucks up extracting the plug then the car would’ve really had to stay, not surprised they didn’t try
Good work.
Good tips.
Keeper coming.
3.2
Great video!
Having worked on cars and as a mechanic in a factory nothing beats the snap on easy outs. More contact area to remove stuck part.
At some point can you do a video on how you would check for boost leaks on a 2.0T? Keep up the great content 🤙
Your the difference between a mechanic and a dealership parts changer nice job
Yeah I’m surprised they we’re draining it from the bottom.. I would have thought they would be oil extracting from the dip tube? Well another save the day video .. I gotta start using that valve grinding compound.. like you refer to. So from my estimation there wasn’t anything wrong with that oil pan why couldn’t you have told this incompetent shop that they stripped out the plug? And they couldn’t have tried to remove it? Looks like the hex insert was rounded out by an impact or electric ratchet because the mechanic didn’t know what they were doing and probably didn’t have the right tool. I agree with all the comments “ it’s getter more and more difficult to find quality and honest shops” dealerships are now referred to as stealerships and INDY shops (not your city) but the independent shops are a gamble. Just a great video as always.. would love a part number on that vintage extraction set 👍🏻
Awesome 💪🏻
Who used the impact wrench on aluminum? Curious. They probably had it set to tighten.
that's a great video...
Nice!
Be careful not to hit to hard it is a aluminum oil pan that could Crack or bend at the plug area
the linear force of the hammer blow is _transformed_ as rotational force, you'd have to hammer away multiple times with a big hammer to break the pan but methinks that you'll probably only mangle the thread before anything else breaks. 😼
@@kittytrail yes you are correct professor ! hens the suggestion to not blow the bottom out of it DA
Lmaooooo bro are they using a boldozer to take out that oil pan? 5k for labor JESUS
Man in todays world with all the internet knowledge and tools at reasonable prices, ill tell you what. I had a air intake boot that had a rip to it, that's where my DIY began...
One thing for anyone doing dyi or thinking about it, always do Theral research, and yall its sooo important to get the correct part, and get a good quality part from a reputable brand. One thing you dont go cheap on is the part. Saves you allot of headaches and redoing the whole process and invest in a good obd scanner none of that 50 crap imo. And another thing, on my wifes 2017 vw jetta, 55k waterpump and thermostat started leaking, they quoted lil over 2k... i said sure buddy. 2 hours time, and 1600$ in my pocket. I am eastern european so naturally back home you dont have many shops at all you are the mechanic LOL. But yeah you save allot of money, and you know the job you have done.
What would have been your 2nd method that you wanted to do ?
I thought the default was for Porsche mechanics to drain fron the top, pumping it out via the dipstick?
No leak, shop was not willing to use too much force on d.p. instead quoted new pan ..
Sir I have a 2011 a4 that I have quite a bit of work I have to do. Is there any chance you could email me when you have time and answer some questions I have. Would be more than willing to send pictures and videos of whatever you need to see. I have a code reader (shit icarsoft scanner but it’s better than going to auto zone whenever I have a code to read) plan is to carbon clean, replace intake manifold, replace fuel injectors, replace cat with high flow, new turbo hardware and gaskets, new exhaust manifold hardware and gaskets, stock k03, getting aluminum water pump and new tensioner pulley. Also have new diverter valve going on
Would appreciate some guidance from an experienced hand if I run into a tight spot.
The 'outre' is palpable-
Why wouldnt you just weld a metal piece with a base you could lock onto and twist?
Simple job really. Men actually try!
The digital dipstick is a liter right?
I was at the low on the car/oil level setting. Put 300ml of liqui moly motor oil saver. Engine smoking now and noticing coolant levels draining. Do you think it’s from coolant or adding to much oil? Check
Engine lights on
You need to figure out where that coolant is going ASAP. If it’s a cracked oil cooler leaking into the engine oil it will wipe your bearings fast.
@@NaptownTuner thanks! Will have to take it to a shop and Hope They properly diagnose it. Not many mechanics want to take these on and out time into it. On my 3rd water pump 2 aluminum housing. 1 installed improperly 1 lasted 2 years. Just had engine replaced and noticed engine coolant won’t stay in reservoir. Shop won’t fix there mistake and I wouldn’t trust them to. A good honest fair priced Mechanics ishard to find. Had one person refuse to touch the water pump because they said they can’t warranty a faulty piece that takes 8 hours to repair.
Now I know why people use dealer services
Last 2 water pumps/coolant didn’t cause smoke from the engine so I’m thinking it’s something with the oil cooler
@@NaptownTuner do you think liqui moly motor oil savers thick viscosity could have caused damage to the engine?
4.369 for labour 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Shops that really don't want to do the job they give a crazy estimate...lol.
That would be reasonable according to dealer labor and parts, only thing they f’d up was diagnosing correctly before shotgunning the job (maybe they tried selling diagnosis? We don’t know the full story). It’s not a simple unscrew bolts and pull pan in 30 minutes kinda job
5000 $ just for that ? hahahahha i make it for 100 hahaha !!!
I bet the shop could have done this repair but simply wanted to make a huge profit, being that the owner drives a Porsche they probably thought he’s a wealthy snob who can afford to pay $5k
>Buys Porsche
>Complains about getting price gouged
Kinda did it to yourself.
Ok, you got the drain plug to come out. Let's ignore that the vehicle still has an oil leak.
I've "did the customer a favor" and got blamed for additional problems. The owner is a relative, who is this person more likely to blame when they DO notice a leak in the driveway, you or a deep pocket shop? If you have worked on a lot of highline vehicles, you have heard "ever since you". The correct repair is to fix the leaks. I don't blame the tech for covering their backside.
When you see an oil leak you note it on the ticket, that covers your backside. They didn’t get paid to diagnose the oil leak, they didn’t diagnose the oil leak, they refused the oil change and quoted the pan based on the plug alone. Maybe it needs one, we’ll find out when I work on it next, it’s not a priority because it’s not bad enough to drip on the floor yet but the valve covers will be done first along with washing the engine. The quote says “may need additional parts”. That’s the shop covering their backside. I’m not saying they are right or wrong, really doesn’t matter to me by other people like to know what happens in these situations. Some shops won’t take any easy risks.