57.DIY Boat Building: Not your normal FOAMO!
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- Episode 57 of this Video Series
🚨Attention DIY BOAT BUILDERS or Wanna Be's🚨 Join me in my backyard as I build a boat from scratch using SaltBoatworks.com plans. No experience? No problem! Watch as I transform into a boat-building expert with my own hands. 🛶🏠
From cutting the pieces to gluing them together, I'll show you every step of this exciting DIY fiberglass boat-building process. You won't want to miss a single moment of this thrilling adventure! 🌟
Follow along and learn how to scarify, epoxy, and use traditional boatbuilding techniques to create a one-of-a-kind wooden boat. This is a complex plywood project that will have you hooked from start to finish! 💪
Subscribe and hit the notification bell to stay updated on this incredible DIY boat-building project. Trust me, you won't want to miss a single video! 🎥
How to Build a Plywood Boat, Step by Step Building a Boat, DIY Plywood Boat, Plywood Boat Building, DIY Boat Projects, Boat Kits to Build, How to make a boat. Build a Fiberglass Boat. How to Paint a Boat. Custom Flats Boat Building. Small Boat Building Projects. Wood Fishing Boat Build. DIY Skiff Build
Products I have used (I earn commissions if you buy these products from the link):
Paint and Prep
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Stitch & Glue
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Power Tools
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Tool Accessories
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Boat Fitting & Components
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Deck Drains (90 degree - 1.5" Stainless): amzn.to/3I8rn6p
Shelter
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Wiring Chases and Plumbing
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#commissionsearned
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I thought I was watching some years ago stuff but you literally on it now. Thx man
Yep, still making a little progress here and there. Hoping once the weather cools a little I can make some big strides. Appreciate it.
If you ever do this again, a japanese pull saw is the absolute ticket. Super thin and flexible, cuts through foam like nothing. Super happy to see progress!
Yeah, kind of had to work with the tools I have. After using that little hand saw I knew a longer pull saw would have been cake. Another good tip. Why do I always get these after the fact? Hmmmmm?
An effective alternative is an electric carving knife. The ones with two serrated blades that move opposite each other from the 70s. They eat foam like nobodies business.
My wife freaked when I used her sewing scissors to cut out the templates, I don't think I will have a place to live if I use a kitchen carving knife. But, a cheap replacement one would do the trick.
Getting closer matey
Step by step right? Appreciate it.
I'm looking forward to the end product.
Appreciate it. Me too!
Oscar hope you are ready for the storm coming in. I would think you have quite a bit of lite stuff that needs to be put away. Good luck and glad to see you back.
Yeah we will just have to see. Most of my stuff is in a little work room, but I keep some stuff around the boat. I put some extra lashings on my tent, and it's not supposed to be super bad when it gets up to us, but we will see. We won't know until we know. Appreciate it.
Very cool!
Appreciate it. Thanks for checking it out. Still a ways to go.
Howdy pard looking forward to seeing you hitting the water with YOUR boat
Personally a bit jealous
All in due time I suppose. Appreciate it. Just have to stay on it till it's done. I have to admit, I have thought about the emotions I will experience the first time it goes in the water. Going to be powerful for certain. Don't be jealous. Be happy.
Glad to see you again and getting near the finish line.
I'm one step closer and I am not even sure I'm closer to the finish line than I am the starting line. It is going to take what it takes, and I'll be done when I'm finished I guess. Until then, one bite at a time, right. Appreciate it.
After careful calculations, Oscar, I have concluded the foam will definitely NOT squeak, unless the boat is OUT ON THE WATER!! Being used!! With the sound of the wind and the waves! And people shouting, "I got a fish!" Otherwise, you are safe on the patio. Nice and quiet there. ...peaceful.
Can you email me that money back no squeak guarantee?
Spent a lot of time in bilges when I was an apprentice boatbuilder digging that foam out as it gets water logged and then starts to break down over a few years.
Yes, there is plenty of horror stories about soggy foam. It is my hope that by only putting foam in completely sealed compartments due to the design of the boat, that we can mitigate that process as much as possible. The benefits of flotation in an emergency, and the sound buffering is valuable. Maybe you can help me understand. How can water penetrate foam in a completely sealed, epoxied, fiberglassed compartment? How can moisture, outside of normal air properties, infiltrate a sealed space? Can you help me understand so maybe I can plan better?
@@Bigeaux20 all good mate I worked on commercial fishing boats boat building you have skin fittings movement as in flex which creates hairline cracks deck fixings that haven’t been sealed properly and so forth. But if you have waterproof voids which in theory are airtight the best buoyancy is air for instance try turning a bucket upside down on water full of air and try to push it underwater it will literally float a person.multiply that volume by your internal space and you’ve got more than enough. I:e that’s if you haven’t torn the bottom out on a reef of course 😩
@@Westozmagic yes the other consideration being as this is a skiff is the foam will act as a sound absorber to dampen the echoing in a hollow space. It’s going to give a little more weight of course, but the solid feel, and the noise dampening, along with the emergency flotation should something terrible happen, are my reasons. Good to hear your thoughts. Stick around!
The foam, you’ll find, also insulates and muffles the noise of waves if you have any chop. I did mine a little different but mine didn’t have all the compartments you have. I had the floor glassed in. Drilled 3” holes saving the plugs. Tilted the bow up and starting in the stern, poured the foam in. When it came up to the hole, put the plug back in and put a brick on it. Kept moving forward. At the very front, , you have to have vent holes or it could blow your floor. What you did looks good. More than one way to get’er done👍
Appreciate it. I may put the floor down and fill some of the remaining holes like you did. I was reluctant to do that because I wanted to know the compartments were full and I didn't want to use more than I should, or not enough. Im glad I left some empty compartments to use my trimmings because that would have otherwise been a lot of waste. I've never messed with foam so as with most things here, I have learned a lot about it, and I will be better suited going forward.
One of the main reasons I wanted to fill the floor was for the potential noise. It may not be so bad with so many compartments, but I know with the foam it will deaden the sound, and that's what I was really hoping for.
@@Bigeaux20 stay safe with hurricane coming in.
Been lucky for the last couple. That last one was bad bad.
Man, I hated doing the foam but you made it look easy. Can’t tell if you are foaming over the flexible hose or not but the foam will push it up with a lot of force as it expands if you don’t secure it in place really well. Keep up the great work.
It's certainly something I have been reluctant to tackle, but truth be told, it's much ado about nothing. The little saw just slices through it like nothing. Biggest down side no-one ever talked about is that it's like being at the beach and rolling around in the sand. All those little tiny bubbles get everywhere if you know what I mean. My knees were hamburger from those things getting in my kneepads.
Where I had hoses and pipes I tried to do small batches so that I didn't run the risk of them being moved too much. The compartments I didn't fill yet, I may do after I put the floor down. I still have some figuring to do on that.
I just stumbled on your build. While I applaud your hard work, did you know hard plumbing is strictly forbidden by ABYC Regulations?
The flex and vibration in a boat will cause it to fatigue and crack over time and having it securely epoxied to every stringer and bulkhead will make this even more likely. It’s fine for the wire chases but should not be used to carry water.
Also, you should glass in backer plates and seacocks where those strainers are. You should have two bilge pumps with floats at different heights and make sure you run those hoses up as high as possible and then down to the thru-hull to mitigate the risk of siphon back.
Make sure that there is some room around the gas tank as well. You don’t want it sandwiched in there too tightly, you want a little breathing room around it.
I obviously did not know that hard piping was against ABYC regulations. I may have to look over that and consider my options before I close the floor. I guess there is still possibly time to remedy that. What type of hose is suggested. I think I can swap it out now. This is very helpful.
Those seacocks have backer plates epoxied in as well as at a minimum double layers of 1808 biaxial. Seems you have a mind for redundancy, and I like that approach. How can I justify double bilge pumps in the space I have available and based on the design that isolates each compartment? Tell me if this is wrong that any penetration in one compartment is isolated and can't travel throughout the rest of the vessel. Is it wrong that the biggest risk is an intake of green water, or a rain deluge that exhausts battery capacity? I'm intending battery backups in my plans. Does it factor that this boat will live on a trailer?
Lastly, on the gas tank, it will not be crowded and have room for expansion and/or contraction but will be strapped in place.
Love your insight and recommendations. Keep them coming please.
@@Bigeaux20 I didn’t see any seacocks or backing plates, only the strainers, but perhaps I missed them. I also didn’t see what you were using for sealant, but a good rule of thumb is 3M 5200 on anything below the waterline and 4200 on anything above. Sikaflex also makes excellent sealant, (IIRC 291 is their equivalent to 5200) but isn’t as widely available at brick and mortars.
I would also suggest running the cockpit drains through the hull with scuppers and check valves, that way you aren’t killing batteries to evacuate the water, especially rain water when it’s sitting on a trailer or tied up at a dock.
Two bilge pumps minimum are a good plan on any boat. The bilge is an absolutely awful environment for anything especially electrical plus debris can clog them. The last thing you want is to be out in the water with a pump failure and no backup especially if you are taking on water or are caught in a torrential downpour and have the cockpit draining into the bilge.
Where are the fishbox and live wells draining to? Ideally the fishbox would go to a macerator and overboard, you don’t want that stench building up in the bilge.
Yes, in theory you have compartmentalized everything, but water has a way of getting everywhere. If a compartment fills up and there’s even a pinhole between it and an adjacent one, say a tiny void where the floor meets the bulkhead or tiny spot you missed around any of those hoses/pipes passing through bulkheads and stringers, it’ll find it. As for the type of hose, check the ABYC regulations, they have different specs for raw, fresh, grey and black water. You definitely want to use barbs and two hose clamps like you have been, but I wouldn’t rely on glue on any connections. It’s incredibly strong under normal conditions in a home but a boat is very different, your house doesn’t bounce up/down and slam into waves. All that jarring and vibration will not be good for any glued connections and once the floor is in you’ll have no easy way to inspect or maintain those connections.
With respect to electrical, you want to have a house battery or two, a starting battery and ideally a trolling battery as well. The best way is to isolate each of them and use an automatic charging relay that will connect them to the battery charger or alternator when charging and disconnect them when discharging. Also, a battery switch that can combine them in the event one is dead and you need to draw power from another. ABYC has regulations about wiring as well, but just like plumbing, it needs to be flexible, so you want multi strand everywhere and there shouldn’t be any solid core anywhere.
Outside of the piping I think we are on the same page with most other things. I am looking at replacing the raw water lines. In regards to the electrical, it seems you aren't aware of the plan. I plan at minimum to have a house/starting battery, and two trolling batteries. I will probably add an isolated starting battery with all the relays for charging between the house and starter battery. Standard battery switch off, 1,2, or 1&2 options. The trolling batteries will stay isolated.
All fish boxes, live wells, and drink boxes all drain overboard via through hulls.
Love it!
Meh sha, originally from Berwick... now just north of Tampa...send contact info I will send pics of my build...32'x9'6"x23" aft cabin oyster luggers with a box keel!
Still upside down! Goodonyas!
Keeyaw! Boy you no couyon you for moving from Berwick to Tampa. You can hit me at bigeaux20 at that yahoo dot com. Oyster lugger reminds me of my hometown and the time we would spend around Mobile Bay.
@@Bigeaux20 ha fickin to start work (nites) Houston ship channel (IKR)! Meh I ah boat Capt!
Keep it in the deep parts my friend!
I’m sitting here, wondering if you had to use this boat as a lifeboat after this last hurricane must’ve been fun. Good to see you back to work thanks.
No, we got pretty lucky with this last one. It shifted east and put us on the good side. It got a little windy, but nothing extreme. Maybe got an inch of rain. Never lost power so I slept right through it. Was really worried about the tent, but it held together just fine. Amazed at how tough that thing is. Appreciate it.