I think you need to change your channel name to "make it awesome" cos every video made is impeccable and so knowledgeable.....I'm in south Africa and learnt so much.....I hope you blessed in all avenues and thanks so much for being so happy to share this knowledge with the world
got to say for years people said just weld a nut on , but you are giving out trade secrets with the washer, the washer is the key. awesome work love the channel. keep putting out the great content.
The part of your tip I've always found important is wiggling back and forth, tight and loose. Tightening a stuck fastener slightly before trying to back it off has worked for me many times. Really liking your channel!
New subscriber here. I found your rat rod video and liked it very much. I've watched several other of your videos. I like the way you show methods, music is not too loud, you are not flashing money around just getting it done. I hope your channel really takes off and you can keep this going. Cheers!
Thanks so much man! We're still trying to figure this whole thing out. But like to do it in a way that we would enjoy watching these videos all the way through! Glad to hear your thoughts on music volume. That's what we were hoping for! Thanks for the kind input, and we appreciate you checking us out!
This is absolutely the best way to remove a broken bolt/stud. It amazes me how many people have a MIG and still use left handed drill bits, easy outs, cutting a slot and trying to use a screwdriver etc. All of which may work if you broke a decent bolt/stud while over tightening it, but if it broke trying to undo it, it needs some heat and a decent amount if force. Welding a nut on gives you both. I also like to squirt the nut with a little bit of water just before undoing it. That helps to contract the bolt/stud away from the mating threads. 👍
I use this method quite a bit to extract broken bolts from cylinder heads and engine blocks. Works awesome! I have also found that if you drill a hole in a piece of flat copper you can use that as a guide to keep from welding the stud to whatever piece you are extracting it from.
Been watching Kame It Custom since it showed up on my feed a couple weeks ago. Going back now & watching some of the earlier videos. Learning a lot & love the presentation. I have been a heavy equipment mechanic / welder for a long time, used this method a lot. You can stick weld the same process, using Unichrome 265, it comes in 1/16 & 5/64 & works awesome. It should be available in blister packs from welding supply store, you don't have to buy a bunch. Thanks Karl!
Awesome tips! Thanks! I like to use the washer and nut method. But I only have mig and stick welders. I also use candle wax once the bolt is hot. It's a technique I seen on line. It was a machinist trick. It's supposed to work well with dissimilar metals like aluminum and iron. But I use it whenever I can. The trick is the paraffin doesn't burn off like all other penetrating oils do when you heat up something.
Where am I that’s a good tip that’s a new one I haven’t heard about the candle wax! The washer trick is such a good one so that you can add more heat with a Mig And it’s usually faster than bringing out a tig welder
Never thought of the washer idea very good but I’ve done the welding to a nut many times with a mig . I had broke a stud off in my distributor I brought it to work where I had a Tig to use to get it out . Thanks for your videos
Awesome video! This technique is a lifesaver and much easier than drilling. One technique I've seen for removing a stud broken flush or even inside the hole when all you've got is a mig is using a piece of copper tube that just fits in the hole. The weld won't stick to the copper, and therefore won't damage the threads.
Excellent job---I do this a lot---at the moment the nut cools to dark( but still hot ) I push a candle on it a bit to melt some parrafin wax into the threads--as long as its hot enough to keep wax liquid, parrafin creeps down the threads to provide a bit of lubrication for the method you used of working back and forth to remove stud. Your fav penetrating oil probably works just as well but the wax has been my habit for years.------just found your channel recently---love your vids. Thx.
I always plug weld the nut to the stud, with the mig. I learned it on engine cases, aluminum mostly, and it almost always works well. I had to watch, to see if it changed in the last sixty years. Thanks again.
I dont have tig welder but been wanting to learn one more reason to get one like i really need a reason to buy tools keep up with the good videos i look forward to these
Good vid man!! The only thing Id add is that ill often let it cool after welding, so the bolts as small as its going to be, then soak in your favourite penetrative libation before winding it out. I find it's worth the risk of another messy weld from contamination if i think I've a chance of winding it out first try. I like acetone and atf mix, some swear by it, some swear against it but it works for me! Cheers mate, loving watching your stuff!! Nice one!
I have used this method with tig quite a few times, right down to an M4 screw sheared off in a blind hole in a zinc casting just below the surface, without damaging the tapped hole. My tig is my best tool for getting broken bolts out.
Yep me too man I use it all the time! Just yesterday I stopped in at a buddies motorcycle shop and there is an exhaust studs broke and we’re inside an aluminum cast hole. He didn’t have a tag but are used the washer technique so that I wouldn’t mess up the aluminum. It worked like a charm only took five minutes they had been trying to drill and tap and use easy outs that broke for hours
As others have most certain said, I like the channel and think it should grow in time as your doing very well with the video and editing... easy to listen to. I knew about stick an mig... tig is something I haven't tried but only makes sense that of the three ways possible there are two really good and then mig is fairly good to. I do like a good stick machine and at seventy three doubt that I will get much welding done. I'm going to try and send your link to a few people I know.
My Daddy taught me those many (many) years ago, and have served me well. Glad to see you passing them on. The worst thing that can happen is they break off, and you have to resort to the drill and tap.....Nothing ventured, nothing gained!
Yup exactly! But no matter go deep they break off , it’s usually a tig welder thy can still get them out. You can build up the end of the broken stud precisely and then weld the nut on again. I’ve had to do it this way and may take a few try’s but always get it
Sometimes I’ll quench the fastener with water after welding or just torch heating because the rapid cooling really breaks the rust bond. Works well on removing O2 sensors here in the rust belt.
Awesome vid! I have an induction heating gun, and I LOVE it for stuff like this! Do you not a have a oxy torch? I use 0 or 00 tips to heat something small and fragile like that. What I will also do is, (if I can get to the backside of a fastener), sandblast it to remove all corrosion so that when you try undoing it it won't bind up and break something. This is a great treatment for corroded suspension & steering parts before disassembly or adjustment. Am I correct in thinking that you are using .035 MiG wire as a filler? Of course, since you are using all that heat, why not just heat up the tabs that capture the square nuts, bend them out and remove the nuts for new ones? When you jokingly said " a little bolt to use on something, I thought, "MY GOD...he's even cheaper than I am"!
Ha ha ha I’m glad you got my joke though lol yeah the metal so brittle I didn’t want to bend the tabs I was worried they would break being so old I do have torches But I really like the welding technique for it heats it and add some thing to remove it at the same time
ive also got a broken head stud that was deep in the block, using a piece off copper tube same width as bolt. using extended mig wire in the tube to build up to above the surface.
I have done this myself several times in my profession, it works if you have patients. I use both the nut and also a bolt welded onto the washer. If I have a nub I use a nut and a bolt if I don’t . You have to pump the heat into them for sure! Great videos my fellow gear head🤘🤘
Luv your Great Videos! I always use the Tig Welding technique. Where I work, I remove a lot of the small 3/16" broken exhaust studs, on our Aircraft engine cylinder jugs, but I use Stainless Steel filler rod because it offers slightly more tensile strength over my standard ER80s-d2 rods. I try to use the box end (for quicker back and forth time) when the outside of the welded nut has room. If not, I do turn my wrench opening around for proven better grip (now tha'ts splitting hairs...LOL!) If I feel I do make a little progess (a few turns) then stops, I will either reheat or soak with penetrant (MouseMilk). Again, great video!
At first i was like why isn't he covering up that fender from the MIG sparks. But then realized he's prob going to paint the car anyways. I've used the TIG method on studs and setscrews that were broken off below the surface, with great success. Being able to pinpoint that heat really is key.
The part of welding the washer first then the nut to it is the key to an easier extraction! You have way more chance of actually having a solid weld to the broken bolt or stud then trying to fill the nut cavity. Been using this technique for well over 15 years and it’s gold, even old timers argue that’s it waste of time, but really guys just stop trying to weld a nut directly. I’ll be quicker in the long run.
the furst way i was taught about heating a stuck bolt thats not broken, is to heat the nut or female thread if possible and unscrew it while hot. I can count how many exhaust manifold bolts ive had to do as you did by welding the nut, but with thick metal, the female side needs to be heated more then the bolt us possible so the threads of the bolt dont expand as much, creating a larger gap in the threads.
was doing this with a mig the other night someone I know was removing a water pump in a car ,, 3 of the 5 bolts broke off flush the with engine ,, the engine housing was aluminum .. there was corrosion so I had to clean it up weld a washer then a nut .. some of them had to weld 2 or 3 times . bolts were only like a # 10 or maybe a 12 .. then the frame rail was in the way,, not fun .. another big problem is broken exhaust bolts ,,
Hey Karl, thanks for this tip. A while ago we have had a broken screw in the alumium hub of a pit bike from my sone.I assume welding something on a srew sitting in alumium is not possible. WHat do you think?
Good evening Karl, I do like that trick with the washer. I have seen so many attempts at this and it falls short. What brand and model is your mig welder? Thanks and take care.
It’s a Memco Matic 130. It’s a old version of a miller welder. Same machine as a Miller 130 they are kind of old but I put a new whip on it. Glad you enjoyed the trick! Cheers
I have a Tahoe I would like to make it chop top but I'm not a professional but I would love to practice on it even if I failed at least I got a a good run at it so I can see if I can perfect it what do you think the truck is a 2000 Tahoe super sport
With the MiG welding version....why didn't you weld on the inside of the nut? It would leave the hex sides free for using a socket?....Just curious. Bugger. Never mind I just watched the rest of the video!
Isn't there a way to use our Mig welder to heat up rusted exhaust bolts without welding onto them? I can access both sides of these bolts in a pipe connection. I just can't get them hot enough with a propane torch and don't want to buy an acetylene torch just for this one item!
Karl do you have the (shunting i think its called) vice grips with the cable attached? Sometimes I have to use them for the spot weld machine to zap first weld
@@MakeItKustom : Heat didn’t work on my brake bleed screws, but likely a map gas plumbing torch just wouldn’t do enough to break it free. I’m looking for a mini oxy/acetylene set for such projects.
Sad to see this secret being exposed... Having owned/operated a machine shop for eleven years I found myself at odds with mechanical engineers and others who were taught to use liquid nitrogen and other fantastical/exotic means to shrink the bolt. Only after all that failed did they bring it to me to drill out the fastener and repair the thread. I always had them lay it on the bench and come back later. As soon as they turned their back and stepped out the door I would bring the fastener to a cherry red with what ever means fit the job. I would go back to what I was doing until the fastener cooled. And, probably 95% of the time I was on the phone with the customer telling them it was ready for pick up while I was backing the fastener out using visegrips. The reason this works is the extreme heat swells the fastener which in turn expands the hole and compresses the internal thread by a few tenths. Just enough clearance to do the job. One point I would like to make is in regards to zinc plated fasteners. These need to be kept heated to about 800°F so the zinc stays softened while you back the fastener out. Otherwise the two will essentially be soldered together. After separating, allow to cool, then chase the internal thread with a tap if the plan is to re-use. This is an excellent channel, and seriously... this knowledge needs to be passed down to others. Colleges and tech schools have become nothing more than money grabbing schemes churning out total incompetence with a certificate anymore. Keep up this good work! Looking forward to seeing more videos, and learning more!
Hey, if you're looking to adopt, I'm 43 but willing to call you dad 😁. Jokes aside, used this a lot on my last place of work where corrosion was king...
I don't care if you are tired of hearing how good you are. You are super fantastic good.
Thanks so much Steve! Always makes my day
I think you need to change your channel name to "make it awesome" cos every video made is impeccable and so knowledgeable.....I'm in south Africa and learnt so much.....I hope you blessed in all avenues and thanks so much for being so happy to share this knowledge with the world
got to say for years people said just weld a nut on , but you are giving out trade secrets with the washer, the washer is the key. awesome work love the channel. keep putting out the great content.
Glad you're out here helping the every day hot rodder become more proficient dude, excellent example of a self made craftsman 👍
Thanks man love sharing info on here!
The part of your tip I've always found important is wiggling back and forth, tight and loose. Tightening a stuck fastener slightly before trying to back it off has worked for me many times. Really liking your channel!
Thanks so much Bill! Yes, it’s definitely a key point in getting them out without messing up the thread!
New subscriber here. I found your rat rod video and liked it very much. I've watched several other of your videos. I like the way you show methods, music is not too loud, you are not flashing money around just getting it done. I hope your channel really takes off and you can keep this going. Cheers!
Thanks so much man! We're still trying to figure this whole thing out. But like to do it in a way that we would enjoy watching these videos all the way through! Glad to hear your thoughts on music volume. That's what we were hoping for! Thanks for the kind input, and we appreciate you checking us out!
I find the music distracting. Listening to Karl's commentary is the best part of the video - just like Fitzee!
I have done this with mig. Never thought of building up with tig. Thanks. Great tip. Jeff
You're welcome Jeff! Glad to help!
I have done the welded nut, the addition of a washer to the process is genius. Thanks for the shop tip.
I've removed broken taps with the tig method and lots of Cat exhaust studs. Digging the fellow Canadian content two thumbs up!
Thanks a lot John!
Thanks seen it before but your a better teacher
Thanks Kurt! Some of these tricks Are very simple it’s so valuable when you really need them
Great shop tip, it has saved my bacon before. You guys are doing a great job of presenting stuff
Thanks Brad I appreciate it! I can’t count how many studs removed lol
This is absolutely the best way to remove a broken bolt/stud. It amazes me how many people have a MIG and still use left handed drill bits, easy outs, cutting a slot and trying to use a screwdriver etc. All of which may work if you broke a decent bolt/stud while over tightening it, but if it broke trying to undo it, it needs some heat and a decent amount if force. Welding a nut on gives you both. I also like to squirt the nut with a little bit of water just before undoing it. That helps to contract the bolt/stud away from the mating threads. 👍
Great video. Guys that don't live in a rusty place are much less likely to know about these tricks.
I use this method quite a bit to extract broken bolts from cylinder heads and engine blocks. Works awesome! I have also found that if you drill a hole in a piece of flat copper you can use that as a guide to keep from welding the stud to whatever piece you are extracting it from.
I always clamp my ground to a vice grip if at all possible. Glad you showed it
9:24 there is a face in that weld.
Awesome video though dude. Thanks for the tips.
Been watching Kame It Custom since it showed up on my feed a couple weeks ago. Going back now & watching some of the earlier videos. Learning a lot & love the presentation. I have been a heavy equipment mechanic / welder for a long time, used this method a lot. You can stick weld the same process, using Unichrome 265, it comes in 1/16 & 5/64 & works awesome. It should be available in blister packs from welding supply store, you don't have to buy a bunch. Thanks Karl!
I like the vice grip trick. Great video! 👊👍
Thank you!
Great TIP thanks for sharing, Nice camera work.
Thanks so much, Ron. My wife will be happy to hear that!
That fender and surrounding sheetmetal is really nice!
Ya! It's in great condition!
Awesome tips! Thanks! I like to use the washer and nut method. But I only have mig and stick welders. I also use candle wax once the bolt is hot. It's a technique I seen on line. It was a machinist trick. It's supposed to work well with dissimilar metals like aluminum and iron. But I use it whenever I can. The trick is the paraffin doesn't burn off like all other penetrating oils do when you heat up something.
Where am I that’s a good tip that’s a new one I haven’t heard about the candle wax! The washer trick is such a good one so that you can add more heat with a Mig And it’s usually faster than bringing out a tig welder
Never thought of the washer idea very good but I’ve done the welding to a nut many times with a mig . I had broke a stud off in my distributor I brought it to work where I had a Tig to use to get it out . Thanks for your videos
Awesome video! This technique is a lifesaver and much easier than drilling. One technique I've seen for removing a stud broken flush or even inside the hole when all you've got is a mig is using a piece of copper tube that just fits in the hole. The weld won't stick to the copper, and therefore won't damage the threads.
Excellent job---I do this a lot---at the moment the nut cools to dark( but still hot ) I push a candle on it a bit to melt some parrafin wax into the threads--as long as its hot enough to keep wax liquid, parrafin creeps down the threads to provide a bit of lubrication for the method you used of working back and forth to remove stud. Your fav penetrating oil probably works just as well but the wax has been my habit for years.------just found your channel recently---love your vids. Thx.
Very interesting! I’ve never heard of using wax I’ll definitely give it a shot! Probably doesn’t smell as bad as the oil LOL
Glad to see another old-school candle user. I've had better luck with a cheap dollar store candle than a $20 can of Kroil.
Karl you are so talented and very knowledgeable. Love your videos.
I’m glad you’re digging the videos man!
I always plug weld the nut to the stud, with the mig. I learned it on engine cases, aluminum mostly, and it almost always works well. I had to watch, to see if it changed in the last sixty years. Thanks again.
I did this method about 11 years ago and I was impressed with my skills. Even more awesome that a professional uses this trick!
I dont have tig welder but been wanting to learn one more reason to get one like i really need a reason to buy tools keep up with the good videos i look forward to these
Good vid man!!
The only thing Id add is that ill often let it cool after welding, so the bolts as small as its going to be, then soak in your favourite penetrative libation before winding it out. I find it's worth the risk of another messy weld from contamination if i think I've a chance of winding it out first try.
I like acetone and atf mix, some swear by it, some swear against it but it works for me!
Cheers mate, loving watching your stuff!! Nice one!
Another great tip, your such a born teacher!! Well done
Great tips to remove broken bolts. Thank you very much.
I have used this method with tig quite a few times, right down to an M4 screw sheared off in a blind hole in a zinc casting just below the surface, without damaging the tapped hole. My tig is my best tool for getting broken bolts out.
Yep me too man I use it all the time! Just yesterday I stopped in at a buddies motorcycle shop and there is an exhaust studs broke and we’re inside an aluminum cast hole. He didn’t have a tag but are used the washer technique so that I wouldn’t mess up the aluminum. It worked like a charm only took five minutes they had been trying to drill and tap and use easy outs that broke for hours
Great video 👍 can't imagine how awesome it must be to be working on your dream car! Good for you man, love your channel
Thanks so much, man! It feels amazing to have been the one to get this car! Can't wait to start the build
As others have most certain said, I like the channel and think it should grow in time as your doing very well with the video and editing... easy to listen to. I knew about stick an mig... tig is something I haven't tried but only makes sense that of the three ways possible there are two really good and then mig is fairly good to. I do like a good stick machine and at seventy three doubt that I will get much welding done. I'm going to try and send your link to a few people I know.
Thanks so much for your support Morgan! Glad you’re enjoying the channel
I just started trying tig, but have seen many benefits to it already. Thanks for posting.
Awesome!! Keep up the great work! Thanks for watching
I just love watching you dip your tungsten 🤣🤣🤣 keep up the good work
Happens to the best of us lol
Nice way to get broken studs out have done it my self only with a mig. Have drilled and taped a lot to.
Take care brother👍
Thanks so much man! Same to you 🙏
My Daddy taught me those many (many) years ago, and have served me well. Glad to see you passing them on. The worst thing that can happen is they break off, and you have to resort to the drill and tap.....Nothing ventured, nothing gained!
Yup exactly! But no matter go deep they break off , it’s usually a tig welder thy can still get them out. You can build up the end of the broken stud precisely and then weld the nut on again. I’ve had to do it this way and may take a few try’s but always get it
I used this method for the first time a few weeks back on a seized and broken exhaust stud on my Hypermotard. Worked. Like. A. Charm. ☺️❤️
Right on! I’ve used it so many times on motorcycles when you have to be delicate like that good job
also spray some juice on the bolt after welding! (moovit,deep creep,wd40) Nice trick with the washer also!
Definitely, good call man! Thanks for watching!
Awesome stuff, I'm not even a fabricator but I can definitely learn a whole lot from your vids!
Awesome! Stoked they're helpful!
Thank you! Love the chanel. Keep up the great work.
Great to hear man thank you!
Great video can't imagine how awesome it must be to be working on your dream car! Good for you man, love your channel
It’s definitely a trip! Never thought it would happen this soon in fact I wasn’t sure I would ever own this car but everything happens for a reason!
I like the vice grip trick. Great video!
Thanks man!
Great tips Karl ! Thanks
Thanks Mike! You're welcome
Sometimes I’ll quench the fastener with water after welding or just torch heating because the rapid cooling really breaks the rust bond. Works well on removing O2 sensors here in the rust belt.
Awesome vid! I have an induction heating gun, and I LOVE it for stuff like this! Do you not a have a oxy torch? I use 0 or 00 tips to heat something small and fragile like that. What I will also do is, (if I can get to the backside of a fastener), sandblast it to remove all corrosion so that when you try undoing it it won't bind up and break something. This is a great treatment for corroded suspension & steering parts before disassembly or adjustment. Am I correct in thinking that you are using .035 MiG wire as a filler? Of course, since you are using all that heat, why not just heat up the tabs that capture the square nuts, bend them out and remove the nuts for new ones? When you jokingly said " a little bolt to use on something, I thought, "MY GOD...he's even cheaper than I am"!
Ha ha ha I’m glad you got my joke though lol yeah the metal so brittle I didn’t want to bend the tabs I was worried they would break being so old I do have torches But I really like the welding technique for it heats it and add some thing to remove it at the same time
Really great tip grounding through the vice grip to isolate surrounding material. 👍👍😎👍👍
Thanks man!
ive also got a broken head stud that was deep in the block, using a piece off copper tube same width as bolt. using extended mig wire in the tube to build up to above the surface.
Nice!
Awesome! So helpful.
Thanks again for the tip.
Very nice work,
Thanks so much John!
Excellent video
Thanks so much!
I have done this myself several times in my profession, it works if you have patients. I use both the nut and also a bolt welded onto the washer. If I have a nub I use a nut and a bolt if I don’t . You have to pump the heat into them for sure! Great videos my fellow gear head🤘🤘
Thanks Paul! You’re right about the patients it’s really easy to get ahead of yourself and make a mess
👍🏻thanks again for the tips!
It was my pleasure!!!
Luv your Great Videos! I always use the Tig Welding technique. Where I work, I remove a lot of the small 3/16" broken exhaust studs, on our Aircraft engine cylinder jugs, but I use Stainless Steel filler rod because it offers slightly more tensile strength over my standard ER80s-d2 rods. I try to use the box end (for quicker back and forth time) when the outside of the welded nut has room. If not, I do turn my wrench opening around for proven better grip (now tha'ts splitting hairs...LOL!) If I feel I do make a little progess (a few turns) then stops, I will either reheat or soak with penetrant (MouseMilk). Again, great video!
Awesome additional information! Thanks for the extra insight I appreciate it!
Done this a few times, only with a MIG welder though...Works well in my very limited experience...TIG definitely neater/more accurate..
Yea it’s a life saver isn’t it!
You should do a video on Frenching head lights
Beautiful
Brilliant!
Years ago, as a teenager ...
I had caged nuts.
At first i was like why isn't he covering up that fender from the MIG sparks. But then realized he's prob going to paint the car anyways. I've used the TIG method on studs and setscrews that were broken off below the surface, with great success. Being able to pinpoint that heat really is key.
Great humour!
Thanks Brent!!
Good tip
Thanks Jack!
I weld booger on top of booger with a mig and then use vice grips to twist out broken exhaust manifold bolts.
I know i've found some great content.
Wicked! Glad you dig it, thanks!
🙋🏼♂️muito bom irmão parabéns Amigo pelo trabalho 👍🏻🇧🇷
👊😆🙏
The part of welding the washer first then the nut to it is the key to an easier extraction! You have way more chance of actually having a solid weld to the broken bolt or stud then trying to fill the nut cavity. Been using this technique for well over 15 years and it’s gold, even old timers argue that’s it waste of time, but really guys just stop trying to weld a nut directly. I’ll be quicker in the long run.
Yes! Exactly! It’s got me out of so many jams
Used the same technique to remove a transmission mounting bolt on my 20yr old diesel pickup. The nut was just a bit bigger haha.
Right on it works so well! The heat breaks free in the nut twist it off
Useful!!!
👊🤙👊
Cool 😎
I wish I had those machines today but working underneath the car on your back is brutal
the furst way i was taught about heating a stuck bolt thats not broken, is to heat the nut or female thread if possible and unscrew it while hot. I can count how many exhaust manifold bolts ive had to do as you did by welding the nut, but with thick metal, the female side needs to be heated more then the bolt us possible so the threads of the bolt dont expand as much, creating a larger gap in the threads.
Makes sense!
was doing this with a mig the other night someone I know was removing a water pump in a car ,, 3 of the 5 bolts broke off flush the with engine ,, the engine housing was aluminum .. there was corrosion so I had to clean it up weld a washer then a nut .. some of them had to weld 2 or 3 times . bolts were only like a # 10 or maybe a 12 .. then the frame rail was in the way,, not fun .. another big problem is broken exhaust bolts ,,
I've been wondering how I'd get the busted screws out of the d nuts on my model a rear body cross member.
Hey Karl, thanks for this tip. A while ago we have had a broken screw in the alumium hub of a pit bike from my sone.I assume welding something on a srew sitting in alumium is not possible. WHat do you think?
It should be absolutely possible! In fact Welding does not like to stick to aluminum so it should work just fine try the washer idea if you can
@@MakeItKustom ok, next tim e i'll give it a try ;-)
I suggest using a copper washer when possible.
Interesting! Thanks for the tip
Cool
Thanks Rickey 👊🏼
Those electric glue guns are something else, eh. :)
Good evening Karl, I do like that trick with the washer. I have seen so many attempts at this and it falls short. What brand and model is your mig welder? Thanks and take care.
It’s a Memco Matic 130. It’s a old version of a miller welder. Same machine as a Miller 130 they are kind of old but I put a new whip on it. Glad you enjoyed the trick! Cheers
Thanks for another great video! Did you make that press brake? I didn't see any posts on your insta.
Hey Andre! Yes I did make it! There should be a post in there somewhere. If there isn’t, I will try to dig up some photos!
I have a Tahoe I would like to make it chop top but I'm not a professional but I would love to practice on it even if I failed at least I got a a good run at it so I can see if I can perfect it what do you think the truck is a 2000 Tahoe super sport
With the MiG welding version....why didn't you weld on the inside of the nut? It would leave the hex sides free for using a socket?....Just curious. Bugger. Never mind I just watched the rest of the video!
What tig welder are you using? Is air cooled ok for the hobby?
I’m using a 200 amp ac/dc welder magnum is the brand sold by KMS Tools here. It’s air cooled and great
Isn't there a way to use our Mig welder to heat up rusted exhaust bolts without welding onto them?
I can access both sides of these bolts in a pipe connection. I just can't get them hot enough with a propane torch and don't want to buy an acetylene torch just for this one item!
I don't have a mig or Tig welder all I got is my torch welder I do the same thing it works the same
when I have used this technique I always let the metal cool to the touch ( bare hand)
Karl do you have the (shunting i think its called) vice grips with the cable attached? Sometimes I have to use them for the spot weld machine to zap first weld
I’ll have to look into those!
@@MakeItKustom i think mine were made by spizneigal. Around 40 or 50 bucks
Curious… before wrenching, why not use penetrating oil? Added lubrication.
Great point and it probably would’ve helped a lot but they did come out pretty easy just from breaking the rust with heat.
@@MakeItKustom : Heat didn’t work on my brake bleed screws, but likely a map gas plumbing torch just wouldn’t do enough to break it free. I’m looking for a mini oxy/acetylene set for such projects.
Man you are busy posting all these videos
Some guys do way more than we do! And we are two people lol it’s tough to keep up but we are committed to making this work! Thanks for being here!
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Do a video on removing door hinge bolts that are 60 yrs old,and how to remove broken door hinge bolts...ugh ,those are my nightmare
Ohhhh yea man not an easy fight
Sad to see this secret being exposed... Having owned/operated a machine shop for eleven years I found myself at odds with mechanical engineers and others who were taught to use liquid nitrogen and other fantastical/exotic means to shrink the bolt. Only after all that failed did they bring it to me to drill out the fastener and repair the thread. I always had them lay it on the bench and come back later. As soon as they turned their back and stepped out the door I would bring the fastener to a cherry red with what ever means fit the job. I would go back to what I was doing until the fastener cooled. And, probably 95% of the time I was on the phone with the customer telling them it was ready for pick up while I was backing the fastener out using visegrips. The reason this works is the extreme heat swells the fastener which in turn expands the hole and compresses the internal thread by a few tenths. Just enough clearance to do the job.
One point I would like to make is in regards to zinc plated fasteners. These need to be kept heated to about 800°F so the zinc stays softened while you back the fastener out. Otherwise the two will essentially be soldered together. After separating, allow to cool, then chase the internal thread with a tap if the plan is to re-use.
This is an excellent channel, and seriously... this knowledge needs to be passed down to others. Colleges and tech schools have become nothing more than money grabbing schemes churning out total incompetence with a certificate anymore.
Keep up this good work! Looking forward to seeing more videos, and learning more!
Hey, if you're looking to adopt, I'm 43 but willing to call you dad 😁.
Jokes aside, used this a lot on my last place of work where corrosion was king...
Ha Hah Hah Hah yea this one never gets old
Did you just dip the tungsten in the weld pool 🤣😂🤣😂
Probably lol
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I like the vice grip trick. Great video!
Thanks glad you like it!