Hi Jer, great idea, as a welder I would advise using unplated nuts, the arc will strike better and you'll get better penetration into the nut, thank you for your videos, your content is always very interesting.
I weld a strip of metal 3/16 or 1/4 thick on inside the length of tube , a few holes in length of tube to weld strip and grind flush , that cuts down on the 80 holes to weld nuts on and now there is threading meat in there , another tip , avoid drilling and taping through that bluish work hardened seam in tubing , use opposite face.
I wouldn't consider rivet nuts expensive, especially considering the time savings . I do appreciate your approach, it's valid and a useful option to have. Your video was entertaining, informative and easy to follow.
Rivnuts lose their grip and spin out, particularly in aluminum. Used as a last resort in the commercial signage industry- always with an additional adhesive, such as Lord's.
Yes, if this is for professional work, it's a waste of time. If it's DIY, it can be handy if purchasing cost budget is the main priority. Always interesting to see new ways of doing things. Also a good method in a pinch of more conventional methods are available.
Young man you did a great job demonstrating your idea on the thin wall square tube. I only wish you the best of luck. You seem smart and willing to work but most importantly you are a thinker, not willing to give up and always willing to figure things out. Thanks for sharing. I wish more young people could learn some lessons from you!!
Very ingenious, the way you improvised a way to position the nuts and then weld them throughout the inside length of a long tube. Very impressive. Thanks for the ideas.
if you want an even sturdier solution weld the nut onto a piece of flatbar, then plug weld the flat bar in similar fashion. The nut could be welded full circumference (much stronger) and you can use multiple plug welds on the flat bar distributing the torque along a great surface area.
Nut plates, or flush mount t-nuts would make this operation easier. Having a flange means you won’t need to reach in through the hole, so can use tig (I don’t have mig) or just flush rivets. Regarding rivnuts: they don’t sit flush (at least the one I have do not). Jer, I have enjoyed your videos for years (bought multiple plans from you and built your grinder). Am so happy you are now posting more frequently!! Keep’em coming!
This is not the technical term for them, but I have used those "countersunk Phillips drive" bolts with the head diameter sanded down using a drill and belt sander so the head is only slightly larger than the hole to hold bolts in place before for welding them on through 4 holes before although it was in a different application (welding on to flat plate that I didn't have full access to the other side and I remember spending probably half an hour or maybe more trying to get the nut in the right place on the other side with a piece of wire wrapped around it before I thought of using a magnet hot glued to a stick to hold it while I threaded the bolt through, after which I realized I could have just hot glued the nut directly to the stick but you know, you think of the good ideas later...)
@@fuckingpippaman It would weaken the push strength of the rivet immensely if you'd countersink such a thin pice of metal. I know, they're mostly meant for pulling forces, but still. It could fall through while assembling if you knock it once. The idea in this video is pretty nice, as even those little tacks can take quite the beating.
Yea, there are plenty of ways to do this without going thru drill bits like candy that are cleaner and easier that cost the same or less than zinc nuts. This video has some bad advice IMO.
Always a good day when you post. I had to do something similar a while back and I just cut the tube in half then welded it back together. As usual your craftsmanship surpasses my brute strength methods.
GENIUS! A solid carbide spade bit is made to drill thin steel. I haven't tried it yet but it is said to leave a burr-free hole on the back side. It is the go-to drill bit for custom-built handsaws.
Great solution! I just put out a similar video that solves the same problem in a little bit different of a way…and boy, oh boy were the rivnut fans unhappy about it! Great job!
Nice idea! FYI you can get Rout-a-Burr bits with a hook shape for deburring inside walls - and they work just fine. I also recommend using integral-flange nuts - they spread out the load more and also give you more material to weld to.
Very cool idea! If the thing you are making is going outside make sure to antiseize the bolts. Nothing sucks more than a captive nut coming loose inside a boxed in thing during disassembly
Harbor freight sells this pop rivet type tool that instead of rivets, it fastens threaded inserts into thin-walled metal like your tubing here. I bought one years ago and have never had a cause to use it yet, but it might work beautifully for this situation. However, your method was brilliant to be able to weld a nut inside a tube like this, inconspicuously cover your tracks, while not getting a speck of weld into the interior threads! You always impress me with your brilliance Jeremy :-)
The rivnuts still have a slim head on the outside of the tube, right? I wanted this to be totally flat on the outside, and of course just wanted to show a solution that doesn’t involve buying a specialty tool that rarely gets used.
@@Jer_Schmidt I'm almost positive they do, just by design like a pop rivet. Your method was clever and much more sturdy than this would be. That said, I've been waiting for years to come up with a use for that damn tool!
@@Jer_Schmidt you can get countersunk head rivnuts that are flush with the surface, and you can install them with a bolt, a nut and a washer. Of course it’s faster with the tool. And you don’t have to drill 3 holes for every fastener.
Clever. The threads sheared on my cheap riv-nut tool, so I bought a quality one and it wasn't cheap. Also manually swaging a large number of riv-nuts can be tiring, so definitely gonna keep this method in mind.
If one does not have access to expensive metal working equipment (i.e. welders, lathe, etc) try a bit of grease on the threads and JB WELD on the face of a flange nut. Use a bolt and jam nut to pull the inside nut tight against the inside surface (tight enough for the flange serrations to indent the metal) and leave for 24 hours. It is not as strong as welding but it is another alternative (that works with dissimilar metals ... example: Steel nut and Aluminum tube).
Great video there! I liked how you showed all the different case scenarios and the use of plug welds to weld the inside nuts reaching from the outside😊
Thanks Jer….. I need to do something like this for a bike rack I have in mind. Thin walled .060 steel square tubing and I thought there’s no way to do this. Yours was the first hit. Great idea and I think I can make this work. Cheers!
Hi, usually for this application I use Rivet Nuts but your approach does give move options and is probably stronger (although labor content is higher). Very impressive. Bye
Weld nuts are another option. Essentially a short bar with an extruded thread, the tab(s) give ample space to weld. The extruded thread is easy to locate in a clearance hole, and works like your modified nut with threads closer to the surface, and a lower profile inside. Now, weld nuts and rivnuts/rivet nuts are often employed in situations where assembly happens ONCE, usually for flat-packed items to be assembled on-site, or limited cycles such as access for replacing a component once or twice. I'd prefer the more solid threads of real nuts for something seeing repeated use. Others have mentioned flange nuts, there's also "heavy" hex nuts, which are basically the next size larger nut with a smaller thread, and there's "heavy jam nuts" which are a combination of larger width, but normal thickness (regular jam nuts are thinner than normal nuts)... So, there's lots to choose from, for thread engagement, width, thickness/clearance, if the standard hex nuts aren't good enough.
Thanks I was aware of several but not all these options you have listed thanks👍. I have also heard riv nuts can loosen over time if exposed to vibration and other forces. Was told Not to use them for side panels on a trailer crate for this reason.
I like your solution. I have the same equipment (mostly) as you, so using what I already have (vs finding specialized nuts & tooling) appeals to me very much. Thanks for posting.
Some great tips. Rivnuts really aren't that expensive though. I use them all the time and 100 M8 Rivnuts cost like a tenner. I think my putter-inner tool was another 20-30 quid, which I guess is a bit of an outlay but not that huge IMO. I'd say that the biggest downside to all the rivnuts I've used is that they don't finish up flush with the outer surface. Although I've seen that you can also get ones designed for a countersunk hole so they do end up flush (still working through my stocks of regular ones but will be getting these next time).
You don't need a setter tool to fix rivnuts, a decent bolt and a socket or spanner will do the job, but it can take a while to get the technique right. I use a power screwdriver to set the smaller ones. But if you are doing lots of them a proper setter is convenient/quicker.
@@bikerfirefarter7280 Before I bought the proper tool this is what I'd do. It works ok, but if the rivnut doesn't sit tight in the hole you risk it becoming loose and spinning part way through crimping the barrel. Adding a stack of greased washers can reduce the torque transferring to the rivnut and that helped a bit, but this was still an issue I ran into sometimes.
I’ve used this method but it was very time consuming ie . Labor intensive. I’ve achieved similar results by over drilling holes, sliding wood backing and then top welding nuts. It provides max clearance on inner tube and was much faster. Great video , thanks for posting. I’m always curious about new ways of getting the work done. Cheers
Great idea, Jer. I've used weld nuts before, but not in this situation, those don't have a coating so would also be suitable for TIG - I think they would work well here.
I must say that your approach is clever, something I don't think I would have ever thought of. However, as others have already noted, it does add a lot of labor. A few years ago, when I purchased a new Ford F-150, I did a lot of projects involving adding/securing items to the truck bed, which is aluminum. I just went ahead and purchased a rivetnut setter, and it has been a wonderful purchase, for which I have no regret. There is no way I could have used your particular method, considering the thin aluminum sheet, sprayed-on bed liner, delicate wiring and hoses (on the underside). For some of my other projects, your approach may be a good solution. Thanks for sharing.
4:00 shows the threads of the long bolt getting alot of splatter on them, most will fall off but some might mess up the threads on the way out, for this type of install i usually weld the nut to a larger washer or sheet of cut metal if its near an edge first, then when you weld in the nut and washer the washer / metal plate covers those two weld holes allowing you to weld horizontal and also stops the spatter from getting the thread of the placement bolt/s as a few have said the rivnut option is a good one, there are a few advantages and some cons, the main con for me on the rivnut is for an application where you would be constantly fixing and refixing items to the unit, there is a chance they can work loose over time and spin but for a one time install they would be fine i usually go the welded method with the nut on a larger pre welded washer / plate great vid
Some tips 1. non serrated flange nut. Extra meat to weld to, less chance for the weld to deform the threads, because it's round, three holes can be made, giving even more power to that connection. Bonus, because of the flange, there's a little more thread too (in most cases, these nuts are slightly taller than normal nuts). 2. shoulder bolt instead of threaded bolt. The shoulder can be matched to a drill thus giving you even more accuracy. 3. Noga RC2000, nuff said. Worth having that tool.
A great option for threads in thin material. You could also use flange nuts and space your weld holes further away from the threads. Great video! Thanks for sharing your ideas.
Thank you for sharing some good tips! I do feel there are some better alternatives, at least if you need to do more than a couple of these. For example there is the blind rivet nut which is a very cheap option. Changing the construction is often a better way to deal with when possible. Maybe a aluminium profile (can't find the right english translation for these) for machinebuilding could be used. There are steel alternatives too. Thank you again for sharing :)
Cool idea! You could also just drill an oversize hole and weld the whole nut or a slice of drilled and tapped round bar in flush with the surface, using a magnet to stop it falling into the hole.
You can unless your trying to do it to M8 nuts and your drill bits top out at 10mm ;) , I need some bigger drill bits. Although I think I have imperial that goes up to 1/2" which would be 12.7mm, which would be large enough for M8 nuts.
I did the idea and usefulness. Drilling access holes to fill and tack nuts in place is slick. I would add something in there about covering the nut with anti-spatter so you don't get a seized bolt after welding the nut in. Rivnuts are not that expensive and you can use a bolt and can install them Without the tool. Though the tool is also not too expensive. I do feel nuts welded in like this would have more holding power than a traditional Rivnut.
Jer, you can get a blade for your deburring tool that is designed to deburr inside edges of holes. You can even get ones that are made to deburr both edges at the same time and just push or pull on it to only get one of the edges.
This is exactly what I need to do to some roof reinforcement on my truck while the headliner is out. I did not think about putting a treads on the flat iron reinforcement so no I will have to JB weld the 12 nuts on before the headliner goes back on. Great video and awesome engineering!
Nice idea. I don't have that bunch of tools. What I Did for a Project similar was , weld a washer to the nut, to have more surface to weld through the drill holes . And for me works very well. Thanks.
It's another tedious step but thinking of this would also make me consider welding a fender washer to the nut first, and then you could just weld the fender washer/nut combo through the plug hole. I think there would be less chance of error in accidentally touching the mig wire and prematurely plugging the hole before a good weld is made. (Note: this is just my hypothesis.)
Here's an idea for free... cut a small cross in the tube, line the nut up on the cross, hammer or press it flush, then weld around it. Grind the weld flush. Might need a tool to hold the nut in position, some sort of tube, but it would need an overlap or a stopping mechanism so that you don't press the nut too far. edit: In fact, even that is too complex. Drill a hole larger than the nut, weld a tripod on to a bolt with the bolt longer than the tripod, thread on the nut, place the tripod on the box section, hold with one hand, weld with the other, detach the tripod and finish weld, or finish weld then detach tripod. So many options, I'm feeling creative. .
I have done that at work where we have a arbor press that's pretty battleship, I dont think my little harbor freight model screwed to a plywood bench could do it for very long
A very ingenious solution. I love watching your approach to problem solving! I wonder in this case if it might not be easier to use a similar approach but instead with a length of flat bar to increase wall thickness. Weld through a series of holes, then drill and tap.
I don't think you need to weld the flat bar. Just drill and tap it before hand and then work your way along the flat bar tightening the bolts in place. But we haven't seen the final use of this item. Once we see that we will have a better idea of what alternate approach may be better. I don't know how to weld so I would try pretty hard to find another way to do it. But For Jer welding is not a big deal so this way seems to make sense. Anyway, looking forward to seeing how this gets put to use!
@Jer Schmidt I thought there might be a weight issue, only reason I could think to go with nuts when there were so many of them. Looking forward to seeing the final project!
Use a Cogsdill deburring tool to remove all the burrs from both the top and bottom side of the holes in one pass. They have a video on their website that show you how it works. This can be done by hand, and I have also used them in my HAAS CNC machine with GREAT success.
I've never welded but i've watched a lot of welding videos and the pro's appear to leave the gas running over the weld when it initially cools to reduce any oxidisation of the weld, what are your thoughts on that as you seem to remove the torch immedaitely :D Thanks
With mig welding you don't need a post flow that is for tig welding. when tig welding you need to keep atmospheric contamination out as the weld pool cools and to keep the electrode clean
The zinc plating will leave you with a weak weld and in such a small area with limited burn time you have no chance of burning of a substantial portion of the zinc. Better to use un-plated nuts or pickle them before use to remove as much zinc as possible.
Yes, uncoated would be better, but this is good enough. I tried putting a bolt in these and hammering on it, and the wall of the tube bends long before the welds break. Plus, under normal use, the bolt is pulling on the nut, not really stressing the welds.
You should look into FRICTION DRILLING (flow drilling / thermal drilling) and TAPPING. All you really need is drill and a tungsten carbide flow drill bit. You can take thin-walled stock and essentially thicken the wall for tapping... no inserts or bolts required.
i did something similar recently. I drilled large enough holes in the tube walls that my turned down nuts (from hex to round) could slide into the holes. Then welded them in, sunken one tube wall thickness so i could tig weld the drilled hole wall to the nut's remaining face as an outside corner joint.
0:20 "rivnuts are very expensive and require specialty tools". BS. You can get a 200 piece rivnut kit for $20 and finish this project with much less time and work. I like the solution you showed and may use it at some point, but you make this look like one of those infomercials where you've created something revolutionary to solve a daunting task that would otherwise be nearly impossible.
Yep I'm a hobbyist and a rivnut tool+dozens of every size were around $80. It's a must have tool for working with thin material especially aluminum. I think it's more believable that a hobbyist would own a rivnut tool than a welder, especially an AC tig machine or a spool gun in order to do this process with aluminum.
Thank you for a very clever video. It is amazing how when a problem looks difficult we automatically think it is impossible when with a little thought everything is possible.
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Hi Jer, great idea, as a welder I would advise using unplated nuts, the arc will strike better and you'll get better penetration into the nut, thank you for your videos, your content is always very interesting.
Yep. Muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) is great for quickly dissolving the zinc plating. I do this all the time.
Not to mention the highly toxic fumes produced from zinc in welding.
You can wire wheel them also to remove plating. I would also recommend spraying bolt with anti splatter and also remove plating.
When done coat the inside with water displacing anti corrosion fluid. Otherwise it will rust - badly.
I weld a strip of metal 3/16 or 1/4 thick on inside the length of tube , a few holes in length of tube to weld strip and grind flush , that cuts down on the 80 holes to weld nuts on and now there is threading meat in there , another tip , avoid drilling and taping through that bluish work hardened seam in tubing , use opposite face.
I wouldn't consider rivet nuts expensive, especially considering the time savings . I do appreciate your approach, it's valid and a useful option to have. Your video was entertaining, informative and easy to follow.
Also compared to the cost of buying a Lathe, Mig Welder and de burring tool the rivnut would be a much cheaper option.
I admire people that can weld well. I cannot. Rivnut is the answer for someone like me.
Rivnuts lose their grip and spin out, particularly in aluminum. Used as a last resort in the commercial signage industry- always with an additional adhesive, such as Lord's.
@@travismiller5548 So how do you weld aluminium nuts inside aluminium square section tube?
Yes, if this is for professional work, it's a waste of time. If it's DIY, it can be handy if purchasing cost budget is the main priority. Always interesting to see new ways of doing things. Also a good method in a pinch of more conventional methods are available.
I feel like this is about to become a solution in search for a problem for me. Extremely elegant.
Just use some Rivet Nuts
Just use a tapped strip.
Don’t research what a weld nut is
@@ag.cousins lol
Ah the comments of smarm. I look forward to their original contributions on their own channels.
Young man you did a great job demonstrating your idea on the thin wall square tube. I only wish you the best of luck. You seem smart and willing to work but most importantly you are a thinker, not willing to give up and always willing to figure things out. Thanks for sharing. I wish more young people could learn some lessons from you!!
Very ingenious, the way you improvised a way to position the nuts and then weld them throughout the inside length of a long tube. Very impressive. Thanks for the ideas.
Excellent process! Added this right to my specialty skill toolbox.
Your level of ingenuity never ceases to amaze me. Well done. Looking forward to the video on this 'upcoming' project.
Forget the rivet nuts, this is a diy solution, well done.
if you want an even sturdier solution weld the nut onto a piece of flatbar, then plug weld the flat bar in similar fashion. The nut could be welded full circumference (much stronger) and you can use multiple plug welds on the flat bar distributing the torque along a great surface area.
I agree, not many fab shops have a lathe , yet often I could use one , over all good work ! Jim
at that rate you could make a box out of flat bar
In this case your suggestion makes as much sense as building one ship above another one... Just clueless SMH
Makes more sense to drill and tap the flatbar, instead of welding a nut.
This is the best video on RUclips for this year.
Nut plates, or flush mount t-nuts would make this operation easier. Having a flange means you won’t need to reach in through the hole, so can use tig (I don’t have mig) or just flush rivets.
Regarding rivnuts: they don’t sit flush (at least the one I have do not).
Jer, I have enjoyed your videos for years (bought multiple plans from you and built your grinder). Am so happy you are now posting more frequently!! Keep’em coming!
This is not the technical term for them, but I have used those "countersunk Phillips drive" bolts with the head diameter sanded down using a drill and belt sander so the head is only slightly larger than the hole to hold bolts in place before for welding them on through 4 holes before although it was in a different application (welding on to flat plate that I didn't have full access to the other side and I remember spending probably half an hour or maybe more trying to get the nut in the right place on the other side with a piece of wire wrapped around it before I thought of using a magnet hot glued to a stick to hold it while I threaded the bolt through, after which I realized I could have just hot glued the nut directly to the stick but you know, you think of the good ideas later...)
there are flush riv nuts. You just countersink slighly the hole
@@fuckingpippaman It would weaken the push strength of the rivet immensely if you'd countersink such a thin pice of metal. I know, they're mostly meant for pulling forces, but still. It could fall through while assembling if you knock it once. The idea in this video is pretty nice, as even those little tacks can take quite the beating.
Yea, there are plenty of ways to do this without going thru drill bits like candy that are cleaner and easier that cost the same or less than zinc nuts. This video has some bad advice IMO.
I like that you showed several ways of acheiving this and your "posh" version at the end, a very cool little system
Thanks for sharing
Always a good day when you post. I had to do something similar a while back and I just cut the tube in half then welded it back together. As usual your craftsmanship surpasses my brute strength methods.
GENIUS! A solid carbide spade bit is made to drill thin steel. I haven't tried it yet but it is said to leave a burr-free hole on the back side. It is the go-to drill bit for custom-built handsaws.
Great solution! I just put out a similar video that solves the same problem in a little bit different of a way…and boy, oh boy were the rivnut fans unhappy about it! Great job!
Thanks for sharing this smart work around Jer 👍🏼, big thank you from South Africa
Nice idea! FYI you can get Rout-a-Burr bits with a hook shape for deburring inside walls - and they work just fine. I also recommend using integral-flange nuts - they spread out the load more and also give you more material to weld to.
I can see numerous times this will come in handy
Very cool idea! If the thing you are making is going outside make sure to antiseize the bolts. Nothing sucks more than a captive nut coming loose inside a boxed in thing during disassembly
Very creative method you came up with. I enjoyed watching your work flow to a solution. Thanks for sharing that with us.
Harbor freight sells this pop rivet type tool that instead of rivets, it fastens threaded inserts into thin-walled metal like your tubing here. I bought one years ago and have never had a cause to use it yet, but it might work beautifully for this situation. However, your method was brilliant to be able to weld a nut inside a tube like this, inconspicuously cover your tracks, while not getting a speck of weld into the interior threads!
You always impress me with your brilliance Jeremy :-)
The rivnuts still have a slim head on the outside of the tube, right? I wanted this to be totally flat on the outside, and of course just wanted to show a solution that doesn’t involve buying a specialty tool that rarely gets used.
@@Jer_Schmidt I'm almost positive they do, just by design like a pop rivet. Your method was clever and much more sturdy than this would be.
That said, I've been waiting for years to come up with a use for that damn tool!
@@Jer_Schmidt Yeah i was thinking the same, and now i use this rivet gun so often. It is a problem solver so many times
@@Jer_Schmidt you can get countersunk head rivnuts that are flush with the surface, and you can install them with a bolt, a nut and a washer.
Of course it’s faster with the tool. And you don’t have to drill 3 holes for every fastener.
Unless they've updated it in the last five years, don't buy the harbor freight one. It failed after the third rivnut.
Thanks for demonstrating this solution outside of your project video. I'll look forward to seeing this in a project.
Necessity is the mother of invention, that will never change. Very cool man.
Love seeing this guy's diy projects. What a great and talented young man!
Clever. The threads sheared on my cheap riv-nut tool, so I bought a quality one and it wasn't cheap. Also manually swaging a large number of riv-nuts can be tiring, so definitely gonna keep this method in mind.
Brilliant idea!!! Lathing the shoulder on the nut even better, well done
If one does not have access to expensive metal working equipment (i.e. welders, lathe, etc) try a bit of grease on the threads and JB WELD on the face of a flange nut. Use a bolt and jam nut to pull the inside nut tight against the inside surface (tight enough for the flange serrations to indent the metal) and leave for 24 hours. It is not as strong as welding but it is another alternative (that works with dissimilar metals ... example: Steel nut and Aluminum tube).
You are a fantastic communicator Well done.
Fantastic tip that I must remember when the situation calls for it. Thank you!!!!
Okay I was going to say "rivnuts," but you addressed that right away. Your solution for the given problem is excellent.
Also, I can't remember the details, but Noga makes a de-burring bit for blind holes. I see it used often on Blondihacks.
Thanks Jer, the screen flash warnings were really useful for me! I really appreciate you adding them.
Very nice I always learn something every time I watch your channel. Great content with no drama.
Great video there! I liked how you showed all the different case scenarios and the use of plug welds to weld the inside nuts reaching from the outside😊
Can't wait to see the upcoming project.
Ur the best, Jer! I love to see your ingenuity on display in every video!
Thanks Jer….. I need to do something like this for a bike rack I have in mind. Thin walled .060 steel square tubing and I thought there’s no way to do this. Yours was the first hit. Great idea and I think I can make this work. Cheers!
Hi, usually for this application I use Rivet Nuts but your approach does give move options and is probably stronger (although labor content is higher). Very impressive. Bye
Thanks for some nice techniques and looking forward to the upcoming project.
Weld nuts are another option. Essentially a short bar with an extruded thread, the tab(s) give ample space to weld. The extruded thread is easy to locate in a clearance hole, and works like your modified nut with threads closer to the surface, and a lower profile inside.
Now, weld nuts and rivnuts/rivet nuts are often employed in situations where assembly happens ONCE, usually for flat-packed items to be assembled on-site, or limited cycles such as access for replacing a component once or twice. I'd prefer the more solid threads of real nuts for something seeing repeated use. Others have mentioned flange nuts, there's also "heavy" hex nuts, which are basically the next size larger nut with a smaller thread, and there's "heavy jam nuts" which are a combination of larger width, but normal thickness (regular jam nuts are thinner than normal nuts)... So, there's lots to choose from, for thread engagement, width, thickness/clearance, if the standard hex nuts aren't good enough.
Thanks I was aware of several but not all these options you have listed thanks👍.
I have also heard riv nuts can loosen over time if exposed to vibration and other forces.
Was told Not to use them for side panels on a trailer crate for this reason.
Nice video. Thank you for showing me something I've never seen done.
Great technique. Thanks
What a innovative idea. Now I need to find a use for this.
I like your solution. I have the same equipment (mostly) as you, so using what I already have (vs finding specialized nuts & tooling) appeals to me very much. Thanks for posting.
Some great tips.
Rivnuts really aren't that expensive though. I use them all the time and 100 M8 Rivnuts cost like a tenner.
I think my putter-inner tool was another 20-30 quid, which I guess is a bit of an outlay but not that huge IMO.
I'd say that the biggest downside to all the rivnuts I've used is that they don't finish up flush with the outer surface. Although I've seen that you can also get ones designed for a countersunk hole so they do end up flush (still working through my stocks of regular ones but will be getting these next time).
Agreed
countersunk rivnuts from Ali for like 10 cents each a bargain
You don't need a setter tool to fix rivnuts, a decent bolt and a socket or spanner will do the job, but it can take a while to get the technique right. I use a power screwdriver to set the smaller ones. But if you are doing lots of them a proper setter is convenient/quicker.
@@bikerfirefarter7280 Before I bought the proper tool this is what I'd do. It works ok, but if the rivnut doesn't sit tight in the hole you risk it becoming loose and spinning part way through crimping the barrel.
Adding a stack of greased washers can reduce the torque transferring to the rivnut and that helped a bit, but this was still an issue I ran into sometimes.
I’ve used this method but it was very time consuming ie . Labor intensive. I’ve achieved similar results by over drilling holes, sliding wood backing and then top welding nuts. It provides max clearance on inner tube and was much faster. Great video , thanks for posting. I’m always curious about new ways of getting the work done. Cheers
Excellent solution to a problem that I've had many times! Thanks
Great idea, Jer. I've used weld nuts before, but not in this situation, those don't have a coating so would also be suitable for TIG - I think they would work well here.
I must say that your approach is clever, something I don't think I would have ever thought of. However, as others have already noted, it does add a lot of labor. A few years ago, when I purchased a new Ford F-150, I did a lot of projects involving adding/securing items to the truck bed, which is aluminum. I just went ahead and purchased a rivetnut setter, and it has been a wonderful purchase, for which I have no regret. There is no way I could have used your particular method, considering the thin aluminum sheet, sprayed-on bed liner, delicate wiring and hoses (on the underside). For some of my other projects, your approach may be a good solution. Thanks for sharing.
Well, that was beautiful! And great job welding those holes in so quickly! I’d be chasing it as I burned through the thin wall material…
4:00 shows the threads of the long bolt getting alot of splatter on them, most will fall off but some might mess up the threads on the way out, for this type of install i usually weld the nut to a larger washer or sheet of cut metal if its near an edge first, then when you weld in the nut and washer the washer / metal plate covers those two weld holes allowing you to weld horizontal and also stops the spatter from getting the thread of the placement bolt/s
as a few have said the rivnut option is a good one, there are a few advantages and some cons, the main con for me on the rivnut is for an application where you would be constantly fixing and refixing items to the unit, there is a chance they can work loose over time and spin but for a one time install they would be fine
i usually go the welded method with the nut on a larger pre welded washer / plate
great vid
Some tips
1. non serrated flange nut. Extra meat to weld to, less chance for the weld to deform the threads, because it's round, three holes can be made, giving even more power to that connection. Bonus, because of the flange, there's a little more thread too (in most cases, these nuts are slightly taller than normal nuts).
2. shoulder bolt instead of threaded bolt. The shoulder can be matched to a drill thus giving you even more accuracy.
3. Noga RC2000, nuff said. Worth having that tool.
I had no idea something like a Noga RC2000 existed. Something else to add to the shopping list.
"non serrated flange nut" I was going to suggest the same thing but I didn't know what they were called! I got them off Dynabolts.
This is why I read the comments section. Thanks for dropping some knowledge.
A great option for threads in thin material. You could also use flange nuts and space your weld holes further away from the threads. Great video! Thanks for sharing your ideas.
You make simple things complicated, blind rivet is the key
*Excellent* tip, thanks! A clever, robust and versatile solution, well done!
Not bad, Herr Schmidt! See me impressed.
Going straight to the playlist of clever stuff
Thank you for sharing some good tips! I do feel there are some better alternatives, at least if you need to do more than a couple of these. For example there is the blind rivet nut which is a very cheap option. Changing the construction is often a better way to deal with when possible. Maybe a aluminium profile (can't find the right english translation for these) for machinebuilding could be used. There are steel alternatives too.
Thank you again for sharing :)
Is "aluminum extrusion" the word you're looking for?
@@JDeWittDIY Jep, that's it.
Well done Jer & that was a great solution for the placement of those nuts. 👍👍
Brilliant, Jer! 😃
Thanks a bunch for the tips!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
For options, look up Noga reversible countersink tools, and self-clinching nuts.
Brilliant, as I’ve come to expect from you!
Thanks
Great tip. Looking forward to the upcoming project :o)
The most surprising was what you said after half a minute. "US HOBBYISTS"... I can't see you as a hobbyist, but as a super professional. 👍🇪🇺🇳🇱
Cool idea! You could also just drill an oversize hole and weld the whole nut or a slice of drilled and tapped round bar in flush with the surface, using a magnet to stop it falling into the hole.
You can unless your trying to do it to M8 nuts and your drill bits top out at 10mm ;) , I need some bigger drill bits. Although I think I have imperial that goes up to 1/2" which would be 12.7mm, which would be large enough for M8 nuts.
Great idea, well explained and presented.
I did the idea and usefulness. Drilling access holes to fill and tack nuts in place is slick. I would add something in there about covering the nut with anti-spatter so you don't get a seized bolt after welding the nut in. Rivnuts are not that expensive and you can use a bolt and can install them Without the tool. Though the tool is also not too expensive. I do feel nuts welded in like this would have more holding power than a traditional Rivnut.
Riv nuts can work loose and then you cannot undo the bolt because the ffnn thing is spinning and laughing at you.
Jer, you can get a blade for your deburring tool that is designed to deburr inside edges of holes. You can even get ones that are made to deburr both edges at the same time and just push or pull on it to only get one of the edges.
Also three holes & welds would prevent moving the bolt breaking the looser attached ones (Fatigue fractures with back & forth bolt movements).
@@chrisharvie-smith486I also think that connection must be stronger. But I don’t know if this method causing bend of tube
Great method, as always. And thanks for putting out a quick update!
It is so great to see your iteration process in solving issues in a build. Thanks for sharing, Jer!
This is exactly what I need to do to some roof reinforcement on my truck while the headliner is out. I did not think about putting a treads on the flat iron reinforcement so no I will have to JB weld the 12 nuts on before the headliner goes back on. Great video and awesome engineering!
Good information and demonstration! Thanks!
Nice idea. I don't have that bunch of tools. What I Did for a Project similar was , weld a washer to the nut, to have more surface to weld through the drill holes . And for me works very well. Thanks.
It's another tedious step but thinking of this would also make me consider welding a fender washer to the nut first, and then you could just weld the fender washer/nut combo through the plug hole. I think there would be less chance of error in accidentally touching the mig wire and prematurely plugging the hole before a good weld is made. (Note: this is just my hypothesis.)
Thanks for sharing. You are a great teacher!
Here's an idea for free... cut a small cross in the tube, line the nut up on the cross, hammer or press it flush, then weld around it. Grind the weld flush. Might need a tool to hold the nut in position, some sort of tube, but it would need an overlap or a stopping mechanism so that you don't press the nut too far.
edit: In fact, even that is too complex. Drill a hole larger than the nut, weld a tripod on to a bolt with the bolt longer than the tripod, thread on the nut, place the tripod on the box section, hold with one hand, weld with the other, detach the tripod and finish weld, or finish weld then detach tripod. So many options, I'm feeling creative. .
I have done that at work where we have a arbor press that's pretty battleship, I dont think my little harbor freight model screwed to a plywood bench could do it for very long
You must be a body tech I am and I've done variations of this repair for years you probably have too
A very ingenious solution. I love watching your approach to problem solving! I wonder in this case if it might not be easier to use a similar approach but instead with a length of flat bar to increase wall thickness. Weld through a series of holes, then drill and tap.
My project is weight sensitive, so I need to keep the material to a minimum. But yeah I can see the flatbar approach being good in some cases.
I don't think you need to weld the flat bar. Just drill and tap it before hand and then work your way along the flat bar tightening the bolts in place. But we haven't seen the final use of this item. Once we see that we will have a better idea of what alternate approach may be better. I don't know how to weld so I would try pretty hard to find another way to do it. But For Jer welding is not a big deal so this way seems to make sense. Anyway, looking forward to seeing how this gets put to use!
@Jer Schmidt I thought there might be a weight issue, only reason I could think to go with nuts when there were so many of them. Looking forward to seeing the final project!
Use a Cogsdill deburring tool to remove all the burrs from both the top and bottom side of the holes in one pass. They have a video on their website that show you how it works. This can be done by hand, and I have also used them in my HAAS CNC machine with GREAT success.
Lol that is 170 USD here one size. They are available in 0.5mm steps. Buy a set for gazillion USD. 🤣
I've never welded but i've watched a lot of welding videos and the pro's appear to leave the gas running over the weld when it initially cools to reduce any oxidisation of the weld, what are your thoughts on that as you seem to remove the torch immedaitely :D Thanks
With mig welding you don't need a post flow that is for tig welding. when tig welding you need to keep atmospheric contamination out as the weld pool cools and to keep the electrode clean
That's a pretty ingenious solution. It's good to see you posting videos again!
I have been trying to figure out a way to do this for about ten years now. Three cheers for the algorithm and your awesome video. Thanks
Learn new ideas with each of your videos, plus you explain things just so well, always with good reasons why.
Thanks Jer!
Holding a piece of steel in your hand while drilling it: a good way to see how busy the local hospital emergency department is that day!
Surprised no one else mentioned this
Great idea! Thanks for sharing!
Genius! Cool idea for so many projects! Thanks for posting!
The zinc plating will leave you with a weak weld and in such a small area with limited burn time you have no chance of burning of a substantial portion of the zinc. Better to use un-plated nuts or pickle them before use to remove as much zinc as possible.
Yes, uncoated would be better, but this is good enough. I tried putting a bolt in these and hammering on it, and the wall of the tube bends long before the welds break. Plus, under normal use, the bolt is pulling on the nut, not really stressing the welds.
May be faster make more massive tack welding on side, like flange nut, before placing it insude tube. And it will be easer weld them together.
And if you _did_ succeed in burning the zinc, then you're breathing it, which isn't good either.
That's some pretty clever stuff Jeremy. Thank you for sharing.
I bought your plans and built my version of your belt grinder. Thank you, Ed.
Un vídeo genial Gracias!
You should look into FRICTION DRILLING (flow drilling / thermal drilling) and TAPPING. All you really need is drill and a tungsten carbide flow drill bit. You can take thin-walled stock and essentially thicken the wall for tapping... no inserts or bolts required.
Well done. Good idea
Well done. Enjoyable video. Thanks for posting.
Great job 👍
Lovely work. Thanks for sharing bro!
Brilliant!
So cool. My brother, who was a welder, died a little over a year ago and he loved watching and doing stuff like this. Wish he could see this one.
What did he die of?
very useful!
i did something similar recently. I drilled large enough holes in the tube walls that my turned down nuts (from hex to round) could slide into the holes. Then welded them in, sunken one tube wall thickness so i could tig weld the drilled hole wall to the nut's remaining face as an outside corner joint.
0:20 "rivnuts are very expensive and require specialty tools". BS. You can get a 200 piece rivnut kit for $20 and finish this project with much less time and work. I like the solution you showed and may use it at some point, but you make this look like one of those infomercials where you've created something revolutionary to solve a daunting task that would otherwise be nearly impossible.
Yep I'm a hobbyist and a rivnut tool+dozens of every size were around $80. It's a must have tool for working with thin material especially aluminum.
I think it's more believable that a hobbyist would own a rivnut tool than a welder, especially an AC tig machine or a spool gun in order to do this process with aluminum.
I am making a bracket tonight and it’s quite different from the long tube problem but the principle works perfectly for my situation. Thanks!
If you can buy flanged nuts this job might be even easier.
Very interesting half of one and how to do this myself. I like the bridge toll pull up tight to the tube. Look forward to the next project.
Rivnuts are cheap AF
Thank you for a very clever video. It is amazing how when a problem looks difficult we automatically think it is impossible when with a little thought everything is possible.