About 5 years ago I was testing in a remote site in Australia why a tv channel wasn't working. I pulled a rack mounted transmitter out and was poking around with my meter. Boom. That area of the world didn't have 2 tv channels for a month... All of which to say, it happens to all of us. Love your content.
😂😂Thanks! and thanks for sharing 🙂I did find after some tests today that those MOSFETs were 100% fake, and that was the issue I was having with the 2nd charger!
@@BuyitFixit Hi, I have an EGO CH5500E garden power tool battery charger that appears to turn on and charge, but it is not actually charging the battery, there are four charge indication LED's (25%, 50% 75% and 100%) but it rapidly moves through the lights and shows the battery fully charged even though it isn't. Is this something you would be interested in looking and making a video out of? Regards Rick.
I really loved the IC going "bang"! Even more when you redid the diagnostics and managed to solve the problem. Thanks again for sharing the excellent patience and knowledge.
TAR!! You didn't give a "spoiler alert". 😆 I guess I would have found out eventually. Isn't this guy awesome?! He's at 48.3 10/19/24. He will be over 100K by next spring. IMHO. Be interesting to see. He analyzes with us in real time. Very helpful, to me, for understanding the path of current. (And Voltage!) 🙂
Just when you went to discharge the cap on the secondary side I was shouting to myself - "Nooo - battery still plugged in!". Been there and done that myself before.
😂😂Yes I realised when I was editing what the problem was so added the caption. It was late when I was recording the video, I was pretty tired and full of flu! But it's what happened so it's on the video 🙂👍
Hash Tag Me Too!👍 Didn't want to use an actual hashtag as that may have upset the minorities.🤣🤣🤣 Great vid again, and thanks for reminding me just how pleased I am I don't do this stuff for a living any more. Cheers all 🍺
Cheers 👍Although I did discover why I was having so much hassle with the 2nd charger! I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
I recently started watching your videos. I have a good friend retired from electronics repair but he still dabbles in it. you guys have so much patience . thanks for the videos
😂😂😂It seems so! I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
Unfortunately your channel & expertise is one of the few channels that makes RUclips worth watching! I use the light bulb current limiting properties plus a variac to save many power switching devices. Great Job :-)
Ufff.. I literally jumped out of my seat... 1:08:00 I'm so so glad that little fracture of the new IC didn't fly into your eyes or something... Thank God... phew
I nearly jumped out of my seat too! (or nearly $#!t bricks) as the saying goes 😂😂😂 I did find out why the chips kept blowing up after doing some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
@@BuyitFixit $#!t bricks 🧱 🤣 20 ohms? That’s insane!! Unfortunately when it comes to specifically MOSFETs, AliExpress is the wrong place to go which makes some sellers offer decent ones at a really high price which is a pure rip off.
thanks for being brave and sharing your mistakes. it makes us feel better about when we blow things up in private. I kept saying in my head you should try injecting a low voltage (1-1.5v) at 2-5 amps at that capacitor you measured low ohms at. Then view which component gets hot under thermal camera. That method has been the most successful way to find shorts for me
Thanks 👍On the second charger, my mistake was ordering MOSFETs from Aliexpress! I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
Once again a very educational video. I'm always happy when a Milwaukee tool lands on your workbench. I also own a Milwaukee and you help me a lot with all the tips so that I can repair my tool myself. Thank you. 😃
Spot on! I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
@@BuyitFixit it’s also incredible how much work they put into making a part look like the real deal when it’s really not. And its components we pay next to nothing for anyway. Crazy.
Mick you’re the master, the china fake components strike again I haven’t had much luck with china stuff lately, it’s a well known fact they rub off the original markings and re-label them, They do it with ic’s as well. What an excellent double helping, really enjoyed it glad to got them fixed thanks 🙏 😊
Cheers Gary 👍I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
@@BuyitFixit oh no, so that’s why they failed just leave a bad review, that’s bad it really is well at least you got it sorted out Mick….thanks I enjoyed the long video 😀
If you had selected these out to be challenging, you could not have done a better job. I really admire the way you kept your cool, It could be though; that your not given to using colourful language. Either way you did a fantastic job and your clients will be delighted to have their chargers back working again. Until next time, Mick, Have a great week. You deserve it. Thanks for sharing.
Cheers Brian 👍I was probably using a little colourful language when off camera especially with the 2nd charger! I was really unwell with flu making this one, and it just kept blowing up. I since found out why! I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
@@BuyitFixit I've been caught with fakes from the same place. It's really maddening, spending money, waiting all that time for them to arrive, only to find out they're not what they should be. Hope your feeling better now. Take care of yourself.
I always enjoy watching you fix faulty electronics. And i don't think that you have noticed but if you look at 46:05 you can see the brown wire has been pinched by the case or when tightening the screw. Maybe that was the cause of the fault to begin with.
Cheers 👍I did notice the wire eventually, but not the cause of the problem. The cause seemed to be the switching IC had failed, but then the problem I was having was caused by those MOSFETS. I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
Wow what a trip .... Thank you for showing the mistakes as we all learn from mistakes even if someone else makes them. Well done for not giving up. A really helpful video .... Cheers : )
Thanks 👍I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
I've swapped switching chips at Repair Cafes (diagnosed at previous one and owner then has to buy parts) and then swapped other blown stuff (current sense resistors, bridge diodes, fuses, etc.) and it's always really stressful as you turn it back on even with the dim bulb. Well done on not swearing as it went ballistic!
😂😂😂Thanks. That sounds almost like the next video I'm putting out on Saturday, lots of things blown. It too is a repair cafe job but because our cafe is only on once month it makes more sense for me to take more difficult items home.
@@BuyitFixit I really try to avoid taking things home, but we had to cancel a RC at short notice after paying for room hire. So I'm doing some "home fixing" to cover costs and have a workshop full of GHD hair straighteners!
😂😂😂😂Yes I needed a coffee, and probably a strong drink after doing the second charger! I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
Yeah, unfortunately some components a lot of suppliers don't stock and I've only seen them on Aliexpress. Also the price of shipping on most component suppliers is a minimum of £10 so it's expensive if you're component is only £1 or less. I've only experienced fake or faulty components a couple of times so far..
Thanks 👍Well hopefully you can learn a few things from my videos although I'm no expert I've just messed around with stuff pretty much since I was a kid.
Thanks 👍 I'm only human, we all make mistakes, and things don't always go 100% to plan. On the later charger I found the cause of the problems I was having. I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
Epic, at least you show your blunders. A suggestion when shorting, discharging etc. is to use a resistor probe (less likely to blow things and includes burnt-finger screwup detection).
Cheers Ralph. Yes I've been meaning to make a discharging tool. I thought there wouldn't have been much in that cap, and with it only being low voltage (I wouldn't have been doing it with a mains cap 😂😂😂) on another note I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
@@BuyitFixit A discharger would also help to protect against certain situations (21:57 to 22:00). i believe Learn Electronics Repair (Richard, I think) had a counterfeit batch of power mosfets from AliExpress.
Another great video Bro! Just a suggestion when using the heat gun with questionable curcuit boards, I surround all small components with bluetac, and kapton tape on top of the bluetac, everywhere I do not want heat to go! Just did a PS4 HDMI port replacement with nothing to worry about. A bit of work after to remove bluetac, but IPA does the job very well. Use more bluetac whenever there is a risk, trust me!
LMFIAO When that first chip popped I was just sipping my coffee & I shouldn't have to tell you what happened. Well the lessons we learn the hard way are the ones we don't soon forget. It was a tough fight ma but you won in the end.
I'd be cautious about buying MOSFETS from AliExpress. After recording this I did a couple of tests and the MOSFETS I got from Ali had a 20 ohm Rds(on)! Where it should have been less than an ohm according to the data sheet, so they were fake.
@@BuyitFixit I hope you left a shit review for the seller and or got your money back from Ali. They have been pretty good about refunds on screwups by sellers.
I was telling myself....the battery is still plugged in...too late. I think we've all made mistakes so no worries mate. Too bad about the wasted money at Ali, hope you get refunded. Also hope you get over the Flu bug, no fun doing anything sickly. Two troublesome repairs and you managed success even under the weather, I gotta give you two thumbs up👍👍 Stay safe, stay vigilant. See ya soon.
Cheers mate 👍Yes those MOSFETS are definitely fakes! I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
Thanks 👍I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
Nice one mate. I was worried a bit, long time, no Milwaukee! I learned a while back that the SK series output transistor bricks (Darlingtons) from China are basically a chunk of black epoxy with wires sticking out. None worked. Panasonic, Technics and others used them on HiFi receivers.
Cheers Tom 👍I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
Cheers 👍It was actually the Chinese that created the star, so we'll have to give them credit for that one. I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
58:20 from here, i already confused why you didnt check short for the D4 diode. 😁 from here i took a lesson, checking shorted every Diode type on circuit board 😀
The cause wasn't the diode🙂. The diode blew up because of the replacement MOSFETs. I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms! Bloody fakes...
A lot of work for these 2 fixes. Good on you for persevering. I bought lots of electronic parts from China via ebay 20 years ago, and the Chinese sellers were nearly all honest. Now it has changed to mostly dishonest, just shipping absolute junk pretending to be anything they can silk screen on to it. Very sad that pure greed has overturned honesty. It's time to just no longer buy from them.
Thanks Mike, yes I was pulling my hair out on the last one as I had checked and double checked pretty much every component and it still blew up, then I thought I wonder if it's those MOSFETs turns out it was. I did a test with my component tester (wish I had thought of it at the time) and the Rds(on) on them was 20 ohms! according to the datasheet it is supposed to be around 0.75 Ohms!
Checking of HV primary side was spot on. If you then put a meter on the cold side (so IR LED side) of the optoisolator, you should get 1V on pretty much every SMPS assuming 817 type opto. If you don't, then either it's not switching or feedback circuit (diode, cap, TL431, etc.) has an issue. If it isn't switching, then start with the PWM Vcc. They will often start up (via external resistor or internal power up circuit) but then Vcc will drop if there is an issue with diodes and cap (or resistor in your case) on the Vcc circuit on the auxiliary winding.
@@BuyitFixit Like you, I learn something new with every fix. For instance, if you ever have a single voltage power supply that you want to replace but don't know what voltage it was, you can use a bench supply to put low current DC into the output (with primary disconnected!) and when you see 1V on the opto, that's the designed output voltage. You can also work it out from resistor values and the TL431 datasheet but I find that slower and more error prone. I also use a DC supply to really quickly check primary side. Put (say) 5V onto L and N and you should see that minus two diode drops on the HV cap. Then let cap discharge a little, reverse the supply, and check the voltage again. That's all fuses, connections, NTC inrush limiter, common mode chokes, and the bridge, all checked very quickly. I use a USB battery bank with croc clips and the job is done in less than a minute.
I found this very helpful, thank you for taking us along. I noticed you are using a thermal camera. Do you have any advice regarding what brand is most helpful for the kind of board diagnostics that you do? I'm looking for one that would align with your work flow.
Thank you 👍It depends on what you're after and the usage. The one I was using in the video (Kaiweets KTI-02) is more convenient for me as it's an all in one unit, and has two cameras (one visible and one thermal and can mix both images at a distance for better quality) but perhaps not quite as good for close up stuff as the other one I was using (Infiray p2 pro) but still very usable. The P2 pro comes with a lens for close up work but the disadvantage is that you need a phone to operate it as it's not a stand alone unit. Both units are similarly priced, and both offer a thermal resolution of 256x192 pixels at 25fps.
Thanks 👍😂😂😂I've used it a couple of times. It is just a bulb wired in series with the socket, so it stops a device from drawing too much current. The idea is that if there is a short, instead of it blowing up the device, the bulb just lights up instead. There's a more fancy one here: hackaday.com/2022/11/13/power-up-vintage-electronics-less-unsafely-with-a-dim-bulb-tester/
Cool repairs. Definetely good idea to keep safety glasses on when testing devices out of their case :) Didn't realise the repair cafe is worldwide organization, there seems to be two locations even here in Finland. Not very close to where I live though, but good to learn about it.
Cheers MrJsv👍. I have to wear glasses now anyway for anything less then arms length. On a different note I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
It’s so annoying that you were doing something nice for someone else (trying to repair their stuff), and because someone else wants to make some dishonest money, it caused you time and money. Well done Mick, thanks for adding comments explaining some of the findings/expected values etc.
Thanks 👍Yes those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! I did some tests yesterday and the component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
Great job X 2 ........ I have some 1N60 and similar from a AliExpress store .... I went back to buying from DigiKey .... Some of the times DigiKey doesn't have what I need so I look at Mouser , then RF Parts , I dealt with them many years ago when I had my radio shop ....also CEI out of Dayton Ohio .... I've bought many many parts from there .... I might start sourcing parts from LCSC in Asia ..... I have heard good things about them .... Take Care Mon Ami...
Cheers 👍I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
Cheers mate 👍Those MOSFETs were the cause of all the problems I was having on the 2nd charger. They were 100% fake. I measured them after making the video with the component tester and they measured Rds(on) at 20 Ohms! according to the datasheet it should have been < 1 Ohm!
@@BuyitFixit So somebody had tried to fix the unit with fake one's if I understand what you are saying. Nothing worst that trying to fix a unit that ten people have already tinkered with it. Good job mate. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for showing the distribution of repair cafe's by country. Sucks that there's none in my country though (Australia). Wonder if they exist but we just call them something different, perhaps?
A few chips later made me laugh. Talking about a spider made me remember a love bug taking out a ventilator and the mosfet switching it. The love bug was still making love to the legs of the mosfet. Good fix you Pitbull you. Once you bite in, you never let go. 🤣
Thanks for the nice Video, I have a question ; these brown capacitors is there a wrong way to put them on the board, because the other capacitors have a plus and a minus site.
Doing this on a DIY basis is satisfying, especially given the final result but clearly that charger was beyond economic repair under any other circumstances. You do also illustrate the potential issues with ordering spares from 'overseas' !!! Then again, even getting them from reputable sources can reveal the same problems. Dodgy world we live in.
Thanks for commenting👍Yes probably not economical for a repair shop or whatever, but the idea is to help people like myself who like to tinker figure out how to repair x y z. Which could be literally anything I come across 🙂 I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
@@teneilp It depends, the thermal didn't show a lot with these as not much was getting hot. They are much better for finding things like short circuits as the shorted component would normally get hot when power is applied.
👏👏👏👏👏 Patience is your middle name. I'd have been cursing that Erbauer charger, and I'd probably have smashed it to bits, if it was mine. Fair play to you, will you be telling the owners about the nightmare you had with them, or just saying they're fixed???
Cheers mate 👍I was supposed to be there today, but I've been ill with the flu. Haven't been to great all week but managed to get the video out for today. The problem was the MOSFETs were fake! I measured them with my tester today (should have done it on the video but it was nearly midnight, then I was editing until 4AM). The Rds(on) was 20 Ohm! and it should have been less than 1 Ohm.
@@BuyitFixit Yeah 97% of the electronic components on aliexpress are spurious. They're either complete BS, the production line rejects that are either well outside tolerances, or are complete duds. You're better off sticking with one of the more reputable electronic component distributors for ICs, mosfets and the like TBH. Shit you have MAN FLU... Hope you feel better soon, loads of hot toddys, for medicinal purposes, of course, wink, wink. Her indoors better be looking after you. Have you got a bell to ring when you need something??? 🤣🤣🤣🤣 But seriously, I hope you're felling better soon Mick, nothing worse than being run down and feeling like shite. Also thanks for getting the video out, we needs our weekly does of Buy It Fix It.
It's quite high resistance, so it slowly discharges the capacitor. The lower the resistance the faster it would discharge but it would also get hotter and waste power when it was running.
Is there a way you can or could have tested the mosfet on an oscilloscope or something to visualize what the difference is and why the other two wouldn’t work?
I did on the component tester after making the video and the Rds(on) on the fake mosfets was 20 ohm! It should have been around 0.75 ohms according to the datasheet. I'm actually fixing a component tester for a future video so I'll show this in a future video.
Tip: if you want to more easily read the chip laser markings, rub some thermal paste on top and wipe off. It should stick in the laser engravings and highlight the numbers.
FWIW the weird SMD resistor codes are for the higher precision resistors (E96 and better IIRC), you can't fit enough numbers on the smaller parts so they came up with the letter code ;)
Just a suggestion …. Your mains power socket on the bench both dim bulb and raw mains … Get a 20amp contactor and wire its coil power to a foot switch so you can have more control to switch something on and off briefly.
Thank you 👍I'm not sure if I was using my trinocular setup on this one, but I've recently been using a TOMLOV 4K AF MAX microscope on my more recent videos. Have a look at the last video I did to see the quality of it. There's also a discount code in the video description if you're thinking of getting one.
Cheers 👍I tested them today and the Rds(on) on the AliExpress parts was 20 Ohms! According to the datasheet it is supposed to be around 0.75 Ohms. 100% fakes!
I have a few milwaukee mx fuel batteries that have died if you fancy a challenge. I think the cells are ok but i wouldn't know where to start with the boards
Why don't you put a second switch across the light on the dim bulb tester? Turning the switch on would short the light, hence power the device normally (after having tested with the bulb in-circuit)?
I would recommend not discharging caps by shorting them as it can damage or at least degrade them when they are shorted. I would make a discharge tool from a power resistor around 20 ohms or so at 10 to 15 watts so that you can also deal with the mains caps as well. If possible always cover up a power supply board with something non conductive and non flammable when first powering it up as if a component were to pop you don't want the shrapnel to hit you in the face. I had a close call with a 8 pin dip switching regulator that almost half of the chip decided to explode because I had not caught a solder bridge on the pins of the chip. Luckily the board was facing towards the ground so I did not get hit with the exploded chucks. Also I think that M-tester may be using cloned firmware as it should have stated the ESR of the caps unless there is a way to disable that feature.
Yes, I didn't think the cap had much power left in it, hence just using a piece of solder. I wouldn't have done that with a main cap 😂😂😂Been meaning to build a discharge tool, just not got round to it. The M-Tester usually shows the ESR, but I think it doesn't if it's below a certain value. Good advice about the exploded chunks, luckily I have to wear glasses now when working on anything less then arms length so at least my eyes had some protection 👍
If you want to check if the mains is working you can always feed it with a low voltage ac or dc, then you can measure till where there is the low voltage. It will not activate the primary switcher.
It was flashing with the unit drawing current. The bulb wasn't allowing the full current that the device needed to work, so it was re-setting itself and trying again. If the bulb lit up full and stayed on then we have a short (hope that makes sense).
when you have such low impedance shorts it's way easier to connect on the supply side, inject some voltage with a current limit set and then use a thermal cam or evaporating alcohol to see where the short is.
I don't know what it is about battery chargers but most of the time it just seems they can always throw up a challenge or two. I wish one of those repair cafes were near me I would really like to volunteer and try to fix some things.
Yes, these were a bit more of a challenge, and I thought they would probably be straight forward (ish). The latter charger which kept blowing up I found out why! I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
@@BuyitFixitI guessed they were fake after you mentioned that you put the original back into the board and then things improved. I watched a video fairly recently on another channel, and they too had received fake MOSFETs from Aliexpress, which destroyed another component on the board. It seems that when it comes to MOSFETs at least that Aliexpress might be best avoided due to fakes.
Do you know which scope it is you are using? " Amscope trinocular (clone) with FHD 48MP Camera V8" I have been thinking about getting an Eakins 3.5x45x or 3.5x90x Simul-Focus but I am not sure of the differences.
The dial on the side says 0.7x - 4.5x but then you have the 10x eye pieces so I think that would be 7-45?. I had to add two 0.5X adapters on it for the camera as its WAY too zoomed in (one on the camera side, and one on the bottom of the microscope). If you check my other videos I did a comparison with it against an Adonstar AD409PRO and I was zoomed into a chip without the adapters. You can read the writing on the chips DIE.
😂😂😂😂😂To be fair, it was China's fault. I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
Thanks 👍The only problem with RS etc is the cost of postage. I've often needed a single mosfet or IC which is less than £1 and the cost of the postage from some of these companies is 10x that. The other problem I've found is that they either don't stock the components I need, are out of stock, or you have to buy 50 or 100 of them. I've usually had no problems, and I think this is only about the 3rd time out of all the parts I've ordered that I've had a problem.
With the light bulb.. Which I have seen on Mr. Carsons lab or something... Why not just use a GFCI that will trip the circuit with 5ma between live and ground/neutral? I am looking for ways to make my own repairs safer.. As I did purchase an isolation transformer as well...
I'll probably upgrade the dim bulb tester at some point, it was just thrown together out of necessity at the time. I'm planning on getting an iso transformer at some point, but they also come with risks... sound-au.com/articles/iso-xfmr.htm
@@BuyitFixit They're a great saver of smoke. I"ve added a switch to bypass the lightbulb for a full confidence test (plus there's a 5 amp circuit breaker in the same box as another layer of safety.
a GFCI will trip due to imbalance live to ground/neutral, yes, but a dim bub gives a visual indication of current draw and will limit current if a device is drawing excessive current without an imbalance. The GFCI would still allow high current to pass to the limit of the mains breaker of a malfunctioning device causing more damage. The filament of the bub provides resistance (current limiting) wired in series with the mains. ( some techs use different wattage bulbs) It should be only used as an static input startup indicator. Leaving a dim bulb in series for a properly operating device can cause varied results as both the current and voltage supplied may be reduced. In addition to a dim bulb an inline current/voltage/watt meter is good measure to give an indication of the device under test that it's with proper specs when the dim bulb is by-passed . Both work for me as the cost of an isolation xformer or variac is prohibitive. Great video, Thanks !
I think you may have ben the victim of counterfeit components. They can waste a lot of time and cause great frustration. Nice work getting them both working.
Thanks 👍and yes they were. I tested them after making the video with the component tester and the Rds(on) was 20 ohms! and should have been 0.75 according to the datasheet. I've kept them so I'll show this in a future video as I'm busy repairing a component tester 🙂
Cheers Mike 👍I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
I bet the 10N60 MOSFET(s) you ordered from aliexpress were fake. High voltage was back feeding from the "gate" pin to the chip. That is why D4 also shorted. Did you test the FET in your component tester before fitting it? They might've been dual diodes.
Earlier today I tested a couple with my component tester (wish I had thought at the time of recording but it was late, I had flu, and was up until 4AM editing the video) and the Rds(on) was 20 ohms! According to a few datasheets they should be
I once was troubleshooting a board and was trying to inject power into a part of the circuit so i set my ps to 3.3v, grabbed the leads and plugged them into a cable connector on the board. What i forgot was that i just got done putting a 75v power supply/ charger for a moped and never plugged the leads back into the ps. They were connected to the 75v deal. Which was plugged into the power strip my ps was so the power was on. Placing 75v on a 3.3v rail with no protection. Sounded like popcorn.. cooked the whole board.. traces gone, micro controller blown. Lol. U live u learn..
No mate, schottky diode (high speed rectifier). I'll get back onto your job this week. Was going to do it last week but was been unwell all week with flu.
Experience not quite as riding bucking horse, just Eyes Glued, breathe held, & *Cheers!* Why Bulb Not Light On Try after [1st] chip replace, 1:08:08 tho Did after 2nd? [47:30 ...] questioned [rectangle] component above "D5", looks like 'wart' on top. lol maybe shadow or coating. tho you not worry. OK, just Odd looking. *Great Work!*
Cheers 👍I think the diode going faulty on the 2nd time made the mosfet switch on, or it shorted (as I had it blow up a few times). Seems those parts were fake as I tested them with the component tester yesterday and the Rds(on) was 20 ohms, and according to the data sheet it should have been around 0.75 ohm. I just got a refund from AE.
@@BuyitFixit Diode must have been, tho i counted on light lol Surprised light not on for first, it needed it. Quite the 'Punch' watching things Blow, POP. Glad for Refund, *Grateful for Show.* 8|} Cheers!
About 5 years ago I was testing in a remote site in Australia why a tv channel wasn't working. I pulled a rack mounted transmitter out and was poking around with my meter. Boom. That area of the world didn't have 2 tv channels for a month... All of which to say, it happens to all of us. Love your content.
😂😂Thanks! and thanks for sharing 🙂I did find after some tests today that those MOSFETs were 100% fake, and that was the issue I was having with the 2nd charger!
@@BuyitFixit Hi, I have an EGO CH5500E garden power tool battery charger that appears to turn on and charge, but it is not actually charging the battery, there are four charge indication LED's (25%, 50% 75% and 100%) but it rapidly moves through the lights and shows the battery fully charged even though it isn't. Is this something you would be interested in looking and making a video out of? Regards Rick.
This guy is very patient while fixing broken battery chargers. Well done double fix.
Thank you kindly sir 👍
I really loved the IC going "bang"! Even more when you redid the diagnostics and managed to solve the problem. Thanks again for sharing the excellent patience and knowledge.
Thank you 👍
TAR!! You didn't give a "spoiler alert". 😆 I guess I would have found out eventually. Isn't this guy awesome?! He's at 48.3 10/19/24. He will be over 100K by next spring. IMHO. Be interesting to see. He analyzes with us in real time. Very helpful, to me, for understanding the path of current. (And Voltage!) 🙂
@@jlucasound I'm really sorry. I'll pay more attention when commenting, my bad.
Just when you went to discharge the cap on the secondary side I was shouting to myself - "Nooo - battery still plugged in!". Been there and done that myself before.
😂😂Yes I realised when I was editing what the problem was so added the caption. It was late when I was recording the video, I was pretty tired and full of flu! But it's what happened so it's on the video 🙂👍
@@BuyitFixit Hope you are feeling better now, thank you for giving us a video to watch despite having the flu.
yea I saw it too
Hash Tag Me Too!👍 Didn't want to use an actual hashtag as that may have upset the minorities.🤣🤣🤣 Great vid again, and thanks for reminding me just how pleased I am I don't do this stuff for a living any more. Cheers all 🍺
Thanks for the fireworks show... and a showing of great patience and logic!
Cheers 👍Although I did discover why I was having so much hassle with the 2nd charger! I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
@@BuyitFixit I too have had mixed results with AliExpress FETs, surprisingly, some are very near match.
I recently started watching your videos. I have a good friend retired from electronics repair but he still dabbles in it. you guys have so much patience . thanks for the videos
Thanks 👍🙂
A jack of all trades and a master of fireworks? Well done!
😂😂😂It seems so! I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
Very persistent & it paid off, I would've given up after first 10 minutes
Liked & enjoyed it mate, thanks for sharing
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
@@leedsguyuk Thank you too 👍🙂
Well done,I’m enjoying the challenge you give yourself,keep the videos coming,thanks.
Thanks 👍
I know nothing about electronics but enjoy watching you track down the problems. Thank you👍👍
Cheers 👍Sometimes you get lucky, and sometimes not. These fall into the later category 😂😂😂
Unfortunately your channel & expertise is one of the few channels that makes RUclips worth watching! I use the light bulb current limiting properties plus a variac to save many power switching devices. Great Job :-)
Thank you 👍🙂
Ufff.. I literally jumped out of my seat... 1:08:00
I'm so so glad that little fracture of the new IC didn't fly into your eyes or something... Thank God... phew
lol, me too
I nearly jumped out of my seat too! (or nearly $#!t bricks) as the saying goes 😂😂😂
I did find out why the chips kept blowing up after doing some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
@@BuyitFixit $#!t bricks 🧱 🤣
20 ohms? That’s insane!! Unfortunately when it comes to specifically MOSFETs, AliExpress is the wrong place to go which makes some sellers offer decent ones at a really high price which is a pure rip off.
thanks for being brave and sharing your mistakes. it makes us feel better about when we blow things up in private. I kept saying in my head you should try injecting a low voltage (1-1.5v) at 2-5 amps at that capacitor you measured low ohms at. Then view which component gets hot under thermal camera. That method has been the most successful way to find shorts for me
Thanks 👍On the second charger, my mistake was ordering MOSFETs from Aliexpress! I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
Once again a very educational video. I'm always happy when a Milwaukee tool lands on your workbench. I also own a Milwaukee and you help me a lot with all the tips so that I can repair my tool myself. Thank you. 😃
Thank you very much!
The patience you have is amazing
Thanks, although my wife would probably disagree 😂😂
You brave man, ordering parts from Ali. 100% counterfeit part.
Indeed.
Spot on! I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
@@BuyitFixit it’s also incredible how much work they put into making a part look like the real deal when it’s really not. And its components we pay next to nothing for anyway. Crazy.
You can get good items there but avoid buying from sellers with a bunch of numbers as their store name and not sort by cheapest price.
Love this channel.... You are VERY thorough
Thank you very much 👍
Mick you’re the master, the china fake components strike again I haven’t had much luck with china stuff lately, it’s a well known fact they rub off the original markings and re-label them, They do it with ic’s as well.
What an excellent double helping, really enjoyed it glad to got them fixed thanks 🙏 😊
Cheers Gary 👍I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
@@BuyitFixit oh no, so that’s why they failed just leave a bad review, that’s bad it really is well at least you got it sorted out Mick….thanks I enjoyed the long video 😀
If you had selected these out to be challenging, you could not have done a better job. I really admire the way you kept your cool, It could be though; that your not given to using colourful language. Either way you did a fantastic job and your clients will be delighted to have their chargers back working again. Until next time, Mick, Have a great week. You deserve it. Thanks for sharing.
Cheers Brian 👍I was probably using a little colourful language when off camera especially with the 2nd charger! I was really unwell with flu making this one, and it just kept blowing up. I since found out why! I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
@@BuyitFixit I've been caught with fakes from the same place. It's really maddening, spending money, waiting all that time for them to arrive, only to find out they're not what they should be. Hope your feeling better now. Take care of yourself.
I always enjoy watching you fix faulty electronics. And i don't think that you have noticed but if you look at 46:05 you can see the brown wire has been pinched by the case or when tightening the screw. Maybe that was the cause of the fault to begin with.
Cheers 👍I did notice the wire eventually, but not the cause of the problem. The cause seemed to be the switching IC had failed, but then the problem I was having was caused by those MOSFETS. I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
Allright, thanks for the explanation. Aliexpress is a great way to get components but can be a pain as well because of dishonest sellers.
Yep totally agree 👍
2 great repairs. Well done.
Thanks 👍
Wow what a trip .... Thank you for showing the mistakes as we all learn from mistakes even if someone else makes them.
Well done for not giving up. A really helpful video .... Cheers : )
Thanks 👍I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
I've swapped switching chips at Repair Cafes (diagnosed at previous one and owner then has to buy parts) and then swapped other blown stuff (current sense resistors, bridge diodes, fuses, etc.) and it's always really stressful as you turn it back on even with the dim bulb. Well done on not swearing as it went ballistic!
😂😂😂Thanks. That sounds almost like the next video I'm putting out on Saturday, lots of things blown. It too is a repair cafe job but because our cafe is only on once month it makes more sense for me to take more difficult items home.
@@BuyitFixit I really try to avoid taking things home, but we had to cancel a RC at short notice after paying for room hire. So I'm doing some "home fixing" to cover costs and have a workshop full of GHD hair straighteners!
Holee Mick...those were both tough ones. Congrats on two fixes "Well Done" Cheers and thank you for posting
Cheers Neil 👍
Good work 👍👍
45:10 , yeahh Coffe time 🥰🥰
😱😱
01:08:00 you build a diy rocket base 🤣🤣
😂😂😂😂Yes I needed a coffee, and probably a strong drink after doing the second charger! I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
@@BuyitFixit On many yt channels you see more and more fake components from aliexpress. It's gotten really bad.
Yeah, unfortunately some components a lot of suppliers don't stock and I've only seen them on Aliexpress. Also the price of shipping on most component suppliers is a minimum of £10 so it's expensive if you're component is only £1 or less. I've only experienced fake or faulty components a couple of times so far..
Great fix Mick. I really enjoy your channel.
Thanks 👍
You are Mr. Perseverance! Enjoyed, please keep up the good content production.
Thanks, will do!
Brilliant video, electronics amaze me I wish I knew more about electronics so I could do repairs
Thanks 👍Well hopefully you can learn a few things from my videos although I'm no expert I've just messed around with stuff pretty much since I was a kid.
Gotta hate it when you let some smoke out. Always enjoyable videos.
Thank you 👍
Thanks for another great video, and for leaving the mistakes in, very honest of you. 👍
Thanks 👍 I'm only human, we all make mistakes, and things don't always go 100% to plan. On the later charger I found the cause of the problems I was having. I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
Epic, at least you show your blunders. A suggestion when shorting, discharging etc. is to use a resistor probe (less likely to blow things and includes burnt-finger screwup detection).
Cheers Ralph. Yes I've been meaning to make a discharging tool. I thought there wouldn't have been much in that cap, and with it only being low voltage (I wouldn't have been doing it with a mains cap 😂😂😂) on another note I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
@@BuyitFixit A discharger would also help to protect against certain situations (21:57 to 22:00). i believe Learn Electronics Repair (Richard, I think) had a counterfeit batch of power mosfets from AliExpress.
1:07:41 wise plan seeing what happened (sadly the bulb didn't save you) :) Ik love your long and thorough repair videos
Cheers mate 👍
Another great video Bro! Just a suggestion when using the heat gun with questionable curcuit boards, I surround all small components with bluetac, and kapton tape
on top of the bluetac, everywhere I do not want heat to go! Just did a PS4 HDMI port replacement with nothing to worry about. A bit of work after to remove bluetac,
but IPA does the job very well. Use more bluetac whenever there is a risk, trust me!
Thanks for the tip 👍Glad the PS4 port replacement went well. I remember doing an XBOX series X one a while back, and it was a bit of a pain...
Yeahp, you are not the first to get something from Ali Express that doesn't work....!!! Great video.
Thanks mate 👍
LMFIAO When that first chip popped I was just sipping my coffee & I shouldn't have to tell you what happened. Well the lessons we learn the hard way are the ones we don't soon forget. It was a tough fight ma but you won in the end.
Lmao 😂😂😂👍
Looking forward to this as I have two Makita chargers to fix. Blown fuse, mosfet, and 27v zener on the gate after initial checks.
I'd be cautious about buying MOSFETS from AliExpress. After recording this I did a couple of tests and the MOSFETS I got from Ali had a 20 ohm Rds(on)! Where it should have been less than an ohm according to the data sheet, so they were fake.
@@BuyitFixit I hope you left a shit review for the seller and or got your money back from Ali. They have been pretty good about refunds on screwups by sellers.
I was telling myself....the battery is still plugged in...too late. I think we've all made mistakes so no worries mate. Too bad about the wasted money at Ali, hope you get refunded. Also hope you get over the Flu bug, no fun doing anything sickly. Two troublesome repairs and you managed success even under the weather, I gotta give you two thumbs up👍👍 Stay safe, stay vigilant. See ya soon.
Cheers mate 👍Yes those MOSFETS are definitely fakes! I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
well done amazing how that original moss fit worked I think it might have been that diode
Thanks 👍I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
Smoke and more smoke great, two for the price of one. Oh and a great vid thanks 🤣🤣🤣
😂😂Cheers 👍🙂
Nice one mate. I was worried a bit, long time, no Milwaukee! I learned a while back that the SK series output transistor bricks (Darlingtons) from China are basically a chunk of black epoxy with wires sticking out. None worked.
Panasonic, Technics and others used them on HiFi receivers.
Cheers Tom 👍I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
Awesome, you created a shooting star. It's happened to me as well, makes for a cool video.
Cheers 👍It was actually the Chinese that created the star, so we'll have to give them credit for that one. I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
@@BuyitFixit the FET was actually a piece of chinese fireworks :)
Thanks for the interesting video, I enjoyed it!
Cheers 👍
58:20 from here, i already confused why you didnt check short for the D4 diode. 😁
from here i took a lesson, checking shorted every Diode type on circuit board 😀
The cause wasn't the diode🙂. The diode blew up because of the replacement MOSFETs. I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms! Bloody fakes...
A lot of work for these 2 fixes. Good on you for persevering. I bought lots of electronic parts from China via ebay 20 years ago, and the Chinese sellers were nearly all honest. Now it has changed to mostly dishonest, just shipping absolute junk pretending to be anything they can silk screen on to it. Very sad that pure greed has overturned honesty. It's time to just no longer buy from them.
Thanks Mike, yes I was pulling my hair out on the last one as I had checked and double checked pretty much every component and it still blew up, then I thought I wonder if it's those MOSFETs turns out it was. I did a test with my component tester (wish I had thought of it at the time) and the Rds(on) on them was 20 ohms! according to the datasheet it is supposed to be around 0.75 Ohms!
Heya nice repair yes it's mind boggling wen the new componments don't work as they should do
Thanks 👍Yes they were 100% fakes...
great video you figured it out
Thanks 👍
Checking of HV primary side was spot on. If you then put a meter on the cold side (so IR LED side) of the optoisolator, you should get 1V on pretty much every SMPS assuming 817 type opto. If you don't, then either it's not switching or feedback circuit (diode, cap, TL431, etc.) has an issue. If it isn't switching, then start with the PWM Vcc. They will often start up (via external resistor or internal power up circuit) but then Vcc will drop if there is an issue with diodes and cap (or resistor in your case) on the Vcc circuit on the auxiliary winding.
Cheers for that, and thanks for the tips 👍
@@BuyitFixit Like you, I learn something new with every fix. For instance, if you ever have a single voltage power supply that you want to replace but don't know what voltage it was, you can use a bench supply to put low current DC into the output (with primary disconnected!) and when you see 1V on the opto, that's the designed output voltage. You can also work it out from resistor values and the TL431 datasheet but I find that slower and more error prone. I also use a DC supply to really quickly check primary side. Put (say) 5V onto L and N and you should see that minus two diode drops on the HV cap. Then let cap discharge a little, reverse the supply, and check the voltage again. That's all fuses, connections, NTC inrush limiter, common mode chokes, and the bridge, all checked very quickly. I use a USB battery bank with croc clips and the job is done in less than a minute.
I found this very helpful, thank you for taking us along. I noticed you are using a thermal camera. Do you have any advice regarding what brand is most helpful for the kind of board diagnostics that you do? I'm looking for one that would align with your work flow.
Thank you 👍It depends on what you're after and the usage. The one I was using in the video (Kaiweets KTI-02) is more convenient for me as it's an all in one unit, and has two cameras (one visible and one thermal and can mix both images at a distance for better quality) but perhaps not quite as good for close up stuff as the other one I was using (Infiray p2 pro) but still very usable. The P2 pro comes with a lens for close up work but the disadvantage is that you need a phone to operate it as it's not a stand alone unit. Both units are similarly priced, and both offer a thermal resolution of 256x192 pixels at 25fps.
well done i thought it had got the better of you
😂😂😂So did I at one point. Bloody fake components...
Great video yet again... loved the fireworks 😂. Please tell us more about your dim bulb tester.
Thanks 👍😂😂😂I've used it a couple of times. It is just a bulb wired in series with the socket, so it stops a device from drawing too much current. The idea is that if there is a short, instead of it blowing up the device, the bulb just lights up instead. There's a more fancy one here: hackaday.com/2022/11/13/power-up-vintage-electronics-less-unsafely-with-a-dim-bulb-tester/
Cool repairs. Definetely good idea to keep safety glasses on when testing devices out of their case :)
Didn't realise the repair cafe is worldwide organization, there seems to be two locations even here in Finland. Not very close to where I live though, but good to learn about it.
Cheers MrJsv👍. I have to wear glasses now anyway for anything less then arms length. On a different note I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
@@BuyitFixit Ah, the curse of fake parts. Good thing the original was working after all.
Yes, otherwise I would have probably still been scratching my head over the bloody thing 😂😂😂
It’s so annoying that you were doing something nice for someone else (trying to repair their stuff), and because someone else wants to make some dishonest money, it caused you time and money. Well done Mick, thanks for adding comments explaining some of the findings/expected values etc.
Thanks 👍Yes those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! I did some tests yesterday and the component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
nice work 🙂
Thank you! Cheers!
Been subbed to channel for a while, great fixes in this vid well done!, and always great videos 👍
Thank you 👍🙂
Great job X 2 ........ I have some 1N60 and similar from a AliExpress store .... I went back to buying from DigiKey .... Some of the times DigiKey doesn't have what I need so I look at Mouser , then RF Parts , I dealt with them many years ago when I had my radio shop ....also CEI out of Dayton Ohio .... I've bought many many parts from there .... I might start sourcing parts from LCSC in Asia ..... I have heard good things about them .... Take Care Mon Ami...
Cheers Cajun. Yes these were 100% fake. I got a refund from AliExpress.
Amazing work and fascinating process great job.
I've got a faulty PCB from a model railway shuttle unit is this something you can look at? 😊
Thanks 👍drop me an email at the channels name at out look dot com
You've got more patience than me, that second one would have gone in the bin 😂 😂
Thanks for the video.
Cheers 👍I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
@@BuyitFixit I've had mosfets that were actually BJT's (also from ALiExpress)
That was a juicy one, mate. That surely makes the part's supplier happy. 😂😂 Cheers, mate.
Cheers mate 👍Those MOSFETs were the cause of all the problems I was having on the 2nd charger. They were 100% fake. I measured them after making the video with the component tester and they measured Rds(on) at 20 Ohms! according to the datasheet it should have been < 1 Ohm!
@@BuyitFixit So somebody had tried to fix the unit with fake one's if I understand what you are saying. Nothing worst that trying to fix a unit that ten people have already tinkered with it. Good job mate. Keep up the good work.
@22:00 - I LOLed. That was spectacular!
😂😂😂😂👍
Thanks for showing the distribution of repair cafe's by country. Sucks that there's none in my country though (Australia). Wonder if they exist but we just call them something different, perhaps?
Have a look at the map here: www.repaircafe.org/en/visit/ When you zoom in it shows more. I've just had a look at there's around 40 in Australia 🙂
@@BuyitFixit Thank you for the link. Turns out there is one fairly close to me after all. I'll be looking further into that!
Brilliant video keep going 👏
Thanks 👍
Great job as usual. 👍I enjoyed the fireworks💥
😂😂😂😂Thanks 👍
Thanks for the video!
You're very welcome 🤷♂️
A few chips later made me laugh.
Talking about a spider made me remember a love bug taking out a ventilator and the mosfet switching it.
The love bug was still making love to the legs of the mosfet.
Good fix you Pitbull you.
Once you bite in, you never let go. 🤣
Thanks mate 👍I wish I had time to edit the sponge bob "A few moment later " to "A few chips later" I'll have to get AI or something to make me one 😂😂😂
Thanks for the nice Video, I have a question ; these brown capacitors is there a wrong way to put them on the board, because the other capacitors have a plus and a minus site.
Thanks 👍They are non polarised, meaning you can fit them either way 🙂
Doing this on a DIY basis is satisfying, especially given the final result but clearly that charger was beyond economic repair under any other circumstances. You do also illustrate the potential issues with ordering spares from 'overseas' !!! Then again, even getting them from reputable sources can reveal the same problems. Dodgy world we live in.
Thanks for commenting👍Yes probably not economical for a repair shop or whatever, but the idea is to help people like myself who like to tinker figure out how to repair x y z. Which could be literally anything I come across 🙂 I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
Would it be a good idea to use the thermal camera on these sort of problems.
@@teneilp It depends, the thermal didn't show a lot with these as not much was getting hot. They are much better for finding things like short circuits as the shorted component would normally get hot when power is applied.
👏👏👏👏👏 Patience is your middle name. I'd have been cursing that Erbauer charger, and I'd probably have smashed it to bits, if it was mine. Fair play to you, will you be telling the owners about the nightmare you had with them, or just saying they're fixed???
Cheers mate 👍I was supposed to be there today, but I've been ill with the flu. Haven't been to great all week but managed to get the video out for today. The problem was the MOSFETs were fake! I measured them with my tester today (should have done it on the video but it was nearly midnight, then I was editing until 4AM). The Rds(on) was 20 Ohm! and it should have been less than 1 Ohm.
@@BuyitFixit Yeah 97% of the electronic components on aliexpress are spurious. They're either complete BS, the production line rejects that are either well outside tolerances, or are complete duds.
You're better off sticking with one of the more reputable electronic component distributors for ICs, mosfets and the like TBH.
Shit you have MAN FLU... Hope you feel better soon, loads of hot toddys, for medicinal purposes, of course, wink, wink. Her indoors better be looking after you.
Have you got a bell to ring when you need something??? 🤣🤣🤣🤣
But seriously, I hope you're felling better soon Mick, nothing worse than being run down and feeling like shite.
Also thanks for getting the video out, we needs our weekly does of Buy It Fix It.
yay a new video... was running out of your repair videos to watch.. lol
😂😂😂👍
Hi Mick, a question regarding the bleed resistors across the smoothing capacitor. Why doesn't this create a short?
It's quite high resistance, so it slowly discharges the capacitor. The lower the resistance the faster it would discharge but it would also get hotter and waste power when it was running.
Is there a way you can or could have tested the mosfet on an oscilloscope or something to visualize what the difference is and why the other two wouldn’t work?
I did on the component tester after making the video and the Rds(on) on the fake mosfets was 20 ohm! It should have been around 0.75 ohms according to the datasheet. I'm actually fixing a component tester for a future video so I'll show this in a future video.
Tip: if you want to more easily read the chip laser markings, rub some thermal paste on top and wipe off. It should stick in the laser engravings and highlight the numbers.
Thanks for that 👍🙂
FWIW the weird SMD resistor codes are for the higher precision resistors (E96 and better IIRC), you can't fit enough numbers on the smaller parts so they came up with the letter code ;)
Thanks 👍Yes I was wondering about that. When I searched the 89Y it said it was an EIA-96 code so I was wondering why they used them.
Just a suggestion …. Your mains power socket on the bench both dim bulb and raw mains … Get a 20amp contactor and wire its coil power to a foot switch so you can have more control to switch something on and off briefly.
Put the contactor away from the bench so the clicking doesn't distract you.
Interesting idea, thanks for sharing 👍
Great videos!
May I ask what is your microscope?
Thank you 👍I'm not sure if I was using my trinocular setup on this one, but I've recently been using a TOMLOV 4K AF MAX microscope on my more recent videos. Have a look at the last video I did to see the quality of it. There's also a discount code in the video description if you're thinking of getting one.
@BuyitFixit thanks and I wish you a successful year!
Sir, What is the cleaner you use after soldering to remove flux? Is it alcohol?
Yes 99% Isopropyl Alcohol.
I lked how it sparkled :)
😂😂😂😂👍
Diligence rewarded 😀👍. … does your component tester think the AliExpress parts are the same as the original or are they too specialised to check??
Cheers 👍I tested them today and the Rds(on) on the AliExpress parts was 20 Ohms! According to the datasheet it is supposed to be around 0.75 Ohms. 100% fakes!
I have a few milwaukee mx fuel batteries that have died if you fancy a challenge. I think the cells are ok but i wouldn't know where to start with the boards
Hmm interesting. You can drop me an email at the name of the channel at out look dot com
Why don't you put a second switch across the light on the dim bulb tester? Turning the switch on would short the light, hence power the device normally (after having tested with the bulb in-circuit)?
Yes good idea, I was meaning to do something like that, but it was just thrown together quickly 😂😂😂👍
Shoulda had a bowl of French fries next to you. Great work!
😂😂😂Thanks 👍
Nice one thanks or two should I say.
Cheers 👍
I would recommend not discharging caps by shorting them as it can damage or at least degrade them when they are shorted. I would make a discharge tool from a power resistor around 20 ohms or so at 10 to 15 watts so that you can also deal with the mains caps as well. If possible always cover up a power supply board with something non conductive and non flammable when first powering it up as if a component were to pop you don't want the shrapnel to hit you in the face. I had a close call with a 8 pin dip switching regulator that almost half of the chip decided to explode because I had not caught a solder bridge on the pins of the chip. Luckily the board was facing towards the ground so I did not get hit with the exploded chucks. Also I think that M-tester may be using cloned firmware as it should have stated the ESR of the caps unless there is a way to disable that feature.
Yes, I didn't think the cap had much power left in it, hence just using a piece of solder. I wouldn't have done that with a main cap 😂😂😂Been meaning to build a discharge tool, just not got round to it. The M-Tester usually shows the ESR, but I think it doesn't if it's below a certain value. Good advice about the exploded chunks, luckily I have to wear glasses now when working on anything less then arms length so at least my eyes had some protection 👍
If you want to check if the mains is working you can always feed it with a low voltage ac or dc, then you can measure till where there is the low voltage. It will not activate the primary switcher.
Thanks for the tip 👍
Why was your dim light bulb flashing when you tested the charger. Does ghat not mean you have a short cct on the input?
It was flashing with the unit drawing current. The bulb wasn't allowing the full current that the device needed to work, so it was re-setting itself and trying again. If the bulb lit up full and stayed on then we have a short (hope that makes sense).
Loving ❤️ it❤🎉
Cheers 👍
Now i know why some repaired boards ive seen have sockets all over the place :D
😂😂😂👍
when you have such low impedance shorts it's way easier to connect on the supply side, inject some voltage with a current limit set and then use a thermal cam or evaporating alcohol to see where the short is.
I don't know what it is about battery chargers but most of the time it just seems they can always throw up a challenge or two. I wish one of those repair cafes were near me I would really like to volunteer and try to fix some things.
Yes, these were a bit more of a challenge, and I thought they would probably be straight forward (ish). The latter charger which kept blowing up I found out why! I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
@@BuyitFixitI guessed they were fake after you mentioned that you put the original back into the board and then things improved. I watched a video fairly recently on another channel, and they too had received fake MOSFETs from Aliexpress, which destroyed another component on the board. It seems that when it comes to MOSFETs at least that Aliexpress might be best avoided due to fakes.
Do you know which scope it is you are using? " Amscope trinocular (clone) with FHD 48MP Camera V8" I have been thinking about getting an Eakins 3.5x45x or 3.5x90x Simul-Focus but I am not sure of the differences.
The dial on the side says 0.7x - 4.5x but then you have the 10x eye pieces so I think that would be 7-45?. I had to add two 0.5X adapters on it for the camera as its WAY too zoomed in (one on the camera side, and one on the bottom of the microscope). If you check my other videos I did a comparison with it against an Adonstar AD409PRO and I was zoomed into a chip without the adapters. You can read the writing on the chips DIE.
@@BuyitFixit thanks! Ordered the 90x Eakins on articulated arm. V excited
That second charger failure was a My Mate Vince level bang.
😂😂😂😂😂To be fair, it was China's fault. I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
Entertaining, been in the electronics repair game for yrs, I’d advise against buying spares from anywhere like AE, use a reputable source…
Thanks 👍The only problem with RS etc is the cost of postage. I've often needed a single mosfet or IC which is less than £1 and the cost of the postage from some of these companies is 10x that. The other problem I've found is that they either don't stock the components I need, are out of stock, or you have to buy 50 or 100 of them. I've usually had no problems, and I think this is only about the 3rd time out of all the parts I've ordered that I've had a problem.
With the light bulb.. Which I have seen on Mr. Carsons lab or something... Why not just use a GFCI that will trip the circuit with 5ma between live and ground/neutral? I am looking for ways to make my own repairs safer.. As I did purchase an isolation transformer as well...
I'll probably upgrade the dim bulb tester at some point, it was just thrown together out of necessity at the time. I'm planning on getting an iso transformer at some point, but they also come with risks... sound-au.com/articles/iso-xfmr.htm
@@BuyitFixit They're a great saver of smoke. I"ve added a switch to bypass the lightbulb for a full confidence test (plus there's a 5 amp circuit breaker in the same box as another layer of safety.
a GFCI will trip due to imbalance live to ground/neutral, yes, but a dim bub gives a visual indication of current draw and will limit current if a device is drawing excessive current without an imbalance. The GFCI would still allow high current to pass to the limit of the mains breaker of a malfunctioning device causing more damage. The filament of the bub provides resistance (current limiting) wired in series with the mains. ( some techs use different wattage bulbs) It should be only used as an static input startup indicator. Leaving a dim bulb in series for a properly operating device can cause varied results as both the current and voltage supplied may be reduced. In addition to a dim bulb an inline current/voltage/watt meter is good measure to give an indication of the device under test that it's with proper specs when the dim bulb is by-passed . Both work for me as the cost of an isolation xformer or variac is prohibitive. Great video, Thanks !
@@BuyitFixit thank you. Awesome replies to my post
I love the way you say you've been pulling your hair out for over an hour, I've been pulling my hair out for a week 🤣🤣
😂😂😂😂
I think you may have ben the victim of counterfeit components. They can waste a lot of time and cause great frustration. Nice work getting them both working.
Thanks 👍and yes they were. I tested them after making the video with the component tester and the Rds(on) was 20 ohms! and should have been 0.75 according to the datasheet. I've kept them so I'll show this in a future video as I'm busy repairing a component tester 🙂
Well done, bloomin' chinese fried chips, thanks Mick 😁
Cheers Mike 👍I did some tests yesterday (wish I had of thought at the time of recording) and those MOSFETs from Aliexpress were 100% fakes! The component tester shows them having a Resistance value when switched on of 20 Ohms! According to the datasheets I've looked at it should be around 0.5 Ohms!
@@BuyitFixit OMG hope you got a refund
I've not sorted that yet. I only discovered this yesterday so might do it today.
I bet the 10N60 MOSFET(s) you ordered from aliexpress were fake. High voltage was back feeding from the "gate" pin to the chip. That is why D4 also shorted. Did you test the FET in your component tester before fitting it? They might've been dual diodes.
Earlier today I tested a couple with my component tester (wish I had thought at the time of recording but it was late, I had flu, and was up until 4AM editing the video) and the Rds(on) was 20 ohms! According to a few datasheets they should be
I once was troubleshooting a board and was trying to inject power into a part of the circuit so i set my ps to 3.3v, grabbed the leads and plugged them into a cable connector on the board. What i forgot was that i just got done putting a 75v power supply/ charger for a moped and never plugged the leads back into the ps. They were connected to the 75v deal. Which was plugged into the power strip my ps was so the power was on. Placing 75v on a 3.3v rail with no protection. Sounded like popcorn.. cooked the whole board.. traces gone, micro controller blown. Lol. U live u learn..
Damn that sucks. Easily done though, thanks for sharing 👍
You referred to High speed diode, would that not be a Mosfet?
No mate, schottky diode (high speed rectifier). I'll get back onto your job this week. Was going to do it last week but was been unwell all week with flu.
Experience not quite as riding bucking horse, just Eyes Glued, breathe held, & *Cheers!*
Why Bulb Not Light On Try after [1st] chip replace, 1:08:08 tho Did after 2nd?
[47:30 ...] questioned [rectangle] component above "D5", looks like 'wart' on top. lol
maybe shadow or coating. tho you not worry. OK, just Odd looking. *Great Work!*
Cheers 👍I think the diode going faulty on the 2nd time made the mosfet switch on, or it shorted (as I had it blow up a few times). Seems those parts were fake as I tested them with the component tester yesterday and the Rds(on) was 20 ohms, and according to the data sheet it should have been around 0.75 ohm. I just got a refund from AE.
@@BuyitFixit Diode must have been, tho i counted on light lol Surprised light not on for first, it needed it. Quite the 'Punch' watching things Blow, POP. Glad for Refund, *Grateful for Show.* 8|} Cheers!