Very Expensive Battery Charger - Shop Couldn't Fix It, Can I?
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- Опубликовано: 29 мар 2024
- A Viewer called Matt asked if I would take a look at a very expensive GYS100.20 battery charger. He had taken it to a repair shop but they couldn't fix it. Let's see if I can figure out what's wrong and hopefully repair it!
I'm not an expert, but I do enjoy trying to fix things.
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#electronics #electronicsrepair #repair
Faulty GYS100.12
Faulty GYS 100.12
Faulty GYS Battery Charger
GYS Battery Charger Repair
GYS Battery Charger Blank Display
Repairing a GYS Battery Charger
GYS battery charger fix
Fixing a GYS battery charger 
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Well Mick, what can I say, you’re an absolute genius, you really really are. I don’t think I can ever thank you enough. Thanks also for strengthening the connector with the hot glue, hopefully this will help for the future. You’re right, it is in and out of our vans all day everyday and the vibrations while in transit couldn’t have helped. Seems strange how it would decide to pick on that one connector lol. I think it needs a BuyItFixIt sticker on the top of it so I can tell the story to everyone that sees it and asked 😊
Again thanks a bunch. Skills like yours are far and few between.
Take care. Regards Matt
Cheers Matt 👍I'll get it packaged up for you 🙂
@@BuyitFixit Thanks Mick! 👍🏻
Can you give us a backstory on what you believed first issue noticed?
Like Was the screen gone and then you sent off or it had other issues for it to believed broken. Because it seems weird to me that the screen wasn't diagnosed properly but the main board was touched?
@@tdkyt46 that was the original failure, the blank screen. The back light could have packed up some time ago and I wouldn’t have noticed to be honest. Got it out one day and it beeped but didn’t turn on. Stripped the lid off and could see damage to the board and put the lid back on and that’s how it stayed for a few months and then I researched local electronic repair company’s and manage to find a TV repair shop and spoke with them and they said they could look but it wouldn’t be a quick turn around which I was fine with as I understand high workloads. Left it with him, after approximately 3 months I rang to be told he couldn’t repair it. Once I spoke with Mick I then removed the lid again to take pictures and that’s when I could see the signs of soldering to the main board etc. It was then reassembled and the next person to strip was Mick.
Good to know, I have one of these myself.
By the look of it, those standoffs for the display don't hold it very securely so there will be some stress on the connector, I would imagine more so from being wheeled across a workshop on a diag cart that it would be installed in a mobile tech's van.
Maybe the answer would be to use the same length standoffs but with threaded ends and nylon nuts - but your modified connector looks stronger than the original.
"Fanless technology", but the first thing I noticed when the cover came off was the fan at the left side...
Apparently only a limited part of the device is fanless .......... 🙂
Yes 😂😂😂😂
😂😂😂Yes only the inside part.. (although there wasn't any vents).
There's a space in there, so it's "fan less", as in fewer fans!
Yeah, I'm not a fan of that either. That must be why they call it fanless technology.
This channel, along with 'Mend It Mark', are head and shoulders above the rest in what is becoming an increasingly crowded genre. I truly marvel at the level of skill, knowledge and resourcefulness of these two gentlemen. And not a hint of ego. Thank you and long may it continue.
Thanks Garry 👍🙂
100% agree with you Garry.
This channel is good ,but mend it mark is on another level@mattsmalley5780
Shocked that it was actually the display was the whole problem… nice job and repair.
Thanks 👍
Mick, I could sit by your side for hours watching and learning. Saving pieces of equipment with sometimes no more than a few pennies of solder or a simple plastic connector. Simply amazing.
Thanks! Well if you're up in the Northwest, I volunteer at the local repair cafe which is on the first Saturday of every month 😂😂👍
No problem with the bridged diodes at the beginning of the video? Surprised it was a display connector and that you found the fault so quickly, you're good brother. I'm always impressed by your talent, much appreciated. Great video, well done. See you next time.
Thanks Terry, I assumed the diodes were supposed to be bridged, probably by a track underneath, and the previous repairer just touched them with the iron. Thanks again 🙂
Love how it says fan less design and then you open it and sitting right in front of the first components you look at sits a fan 😮…lol
Yes, perhaps this one slipped through quality control with a fan installed by mistake😂😂
Just as I came to the end of watching every episode of bigclive, the algorithm gods present me with hours more content to watch til the early hours. Love the channel - it’s the right amount of detail, professionally shot without any of the faff and waffle. Now firmly subscribed! 31, UK
Thanks Charlie, I do try and put a lot of work into my videos, and constantly try to improve. Thank you for your feedback.. 'and resume..' 😂
That relay makes a wholly satisfying ping, as an aside.
Yes it does 😂😂😂😂
Pretty good fault finding. I wouldn't have suspect the display board immediately!
Thanks 👍I thought I'd start there and work back, could have been no power going to it but I wasn't sure where the power rails were that feeds it.
I swear these connectors are made with candlewax the way they melt if you go near them with an iron.
What I do, is stick a pin-header into the socket to keep the pins aligned and soak up any excess heat. WHEN the plastic melts, the header stops the pins wandering.
Good tip 👍I don't usually have an issue with them. The one I used was from when I built an RGB LED music sequenced Christmas light show a few years back (video on here from about 5 years ago) it was quite a big project and took me around 4 months.
Excellent detective work. Enjoyed every moment of it. Thanks!
It's funny how the other tech tried to remove parts that had nothing to do with the problem, and you looked at them and said, "Let's look at the display." Genius!! It seems to me that critical thinkers are a thing of the past anymore. Not too many people can think their way through a problem like you.
Another great repair from the Master!
Thanks Ron👍, well it was the display that wasn't working so I thought I'd start there and work backwards as the device seemed to have power, and the keypad seemed to function because it made a beep when pressing the button 🙂
Its like when you drop a car off at a shop and they have it for a month just to charge you 900$ for a buncha parts that didnt fix the issue so you take it to another shop and they find and fix a broken wire for a few bucks. But then you have other problems from the “new” stuff the other shop said you needed and now you cant get any refund or return parts because you took it to another shop arguing that the other shop broke the parts they just put in.. lol.
Sounds pretty accurate 😂😂👍
Sounds like you've been watching South Main Auto! The previous shop fired the parts cannon at that truck, to the tune of $900. Still not repaired. Eric O found a corroded wire in a module connector at the rear of the truck. Sheesh, there are a bunch of hack mechanics and technicians out there. Thanks for a great video Mick, you aced another one.
Thanks mate 👍
My first words to local shops that bring me their problem jobs are "where are the original parts?" You know, the ones that weren't faulty in the first place.
They are learning now, don't throw away old parts until you know it's a good repair.
Sometimes, they have made the right call but they've sourced a part that doesn't quite perform to spec (or doesn't perform at all!)
I have some really good customers though... if they're not sure, they won't fire the cannon, they send it to me for diag.
Its amazing how many people who work with electronics that are able to find faults but unable to rectify them, it makes me wander if they even know what they are doing in the first place?
Hmmm, I don't really work with electronics, and I don't really know what I'm doing 😂😂😂Perhaps that's an advantage 🙂
Superb job! I'm pleased that you went to the display quite quickly as I had a feeling the machine was powering up and beeping because no battery was attached. I was hoping you may measure output first to see if was just a display issue but never suspected it would be the socket. I think your replacement socket and repair is more robust than the original 👍
Many thanks! Yes it seemed like it should have been displaying something because it beeped so I thought it might have no power to the display or something. I didn't expect it was going to be the socket either!
Great fault finding as always Mick 👍
Thanks Vince 👍
There is no better feeling than to repair something that shops cannot, well done, walk tall
Thanks Nigel👍
Brilliant 💯
Cheers George 👍
Damn fine work, sir.
Thank you 👍
You can do it mate!!!Cheers from Sydney Australia.
Thanks mate 👍
Great diagnosis and repair! 👍
Thank you 👍
Chalk up another fix for the board .............. Great repair as always Mon Ami , Happy Easter to ya'll ........
Thanks Cajun 👍🙂
Nice one, Mick. Another cracking success for the channel. Thanks for sharing.
Cheers Brian 👍
Cleaver man good presentation 👏
Appreciate it!
Great fix. thanks Mick 😀
Cheers Mike 👍
Nice to watch thanks
Thanks for your feedback 👍
Hi always good to watch u get on with it
Thanks 👍
24:00 I think those four clip in white plastic standoffs do not offer enough mechanical support and that is why it failed.
Could well be the case 👍
Of course they don't. Should've used M3 nuts and bolts. Those plastic standoffs are absolute crap.
The charger is made for stationary use or to sit on a cart with wheels so it's not surprising.
yet another great find the fault and fix video,top man!!! 5*
Thanks 👍
Brilliant.
Cheers 👍
Brilliant device, use mine daily
Well done what an interesting video thanks
Thanks Duncan 👍
The display would have been the FIRST thing I would have looked at to make sure that the cable connections were OK. Also when you put the plastic glue as a physical brace to the socket, as I would have also done that on both sides. But apart from then few points, you went through it in a logical manner 👍🏽
Also one of the FIRST things that I had seen was that fan at the side of the unit.
Thanks, yes 'Fanless' unless you look inside 😂😂
great idea for the connector replacement!
Thanks, it was just what I had laying around. We live in a quite remote area so I need to be resourceful at times 🙂👍
good job😄
Thanks 👍
Another great video. I feel really chuffed for you when you sort out these large array of issues with random electrical items. Top Job👍
Thanks Darren 👍
Great find with the connector. But I really dislike unleaded solder. The joints always look dry and the wetting is terrible. Surely some flux would have helped on this job?
Thanks 👍The light on the microscope also casts shadows at times which makes some joints look worse than they actually are when viewed at a different angle. Yes I'm not a fan of unleaded either!
Awsome, easy fix on this one. ❤
Cheers Christopher 👍
Excellent work as always sir
It's a pleasure to watch you work!!!
1:39, ah, there's your problem, "Made in France".
I mean we're all familiar with the disco light display on the back of a Renault, or Citroen, where all the lights flash and/or flicker once the indicator is activated??
You just can't trust them, I mean it says "Fan Less Technology" on the outside of the cabinet, but guess what's the first thing you see when you take off the top cover... A fan!!! Mon Dieu as the French say, Mon Dieu...🤣🤣🤣🤣
Thanks mate 👍Mon Dieu 😂😂😂
@@BuyitFixit to be honest I can't believe a company manufacturing garage equipment, especially "high end" equipment didn't think to add some sort of mechanical support to that display socket during manufacturing. A blob or two of silicone glue, or at the very least a few lines of hot melt glue, to give it a fighting chance at least. Like these things are dragged around from vehicle to vehicle, bashed off benches, etc.
That's just piss poor design...
Yeah, thats what i thought.
@@generaldisarray Actually these chargers are really good and reliable, VAG uses them as standard in all dealer shops. There is also a secret power supply mode if you read the manual.
Note that there are absolutely no carry handles on the device?
This particular model is NOT made to be dragged around in a VAN or bashed off benches, it's made to be sitting in a diagnostic cart with a laptop or wall mounted with a bracket. GYS sell other models with carry handles that are of course completely full of mechanical supports and vibration mitigation.
@@mrfrenzy. Even in a cart it's going to be subject to vibration, etc as the diagnostic cart is wheeled around.
It's just common sense that you'd mechanically support a component like that socket
Hi,' THE MAN' wins again. Many thanks from Nr Chester
Cheers 👍
Was expecting this to be tiny components as the issue, to then find out what a nice simple repair it was (albeit with a bit of leg bending). That fixer of everything plaque is very justified :) Nice video as always!
Thanks 👍🙂
An incredible amount of hard work and knowledge went into making this. Sincere thanks for sharing this, really appreciated.
My pleasure!
Your abilities simply amaze me, love what you do. USA
Thanks mate 👍
Congrats!
Thanks 👍
That was a good lesson in not assuming anything . I was thinking that the usb port could power the display /controller separately from the charger . Thanks 😊
Thanks 👍🙂
When the case was opened and I saw the conformal coating over everything, I thought..
OH NO!!
That stuff is such a pain when it comes to fault finding and servicing.
Totally agree 👍I fixed quite a few Milwaukee tools on my earlier videos and most of the boards are covered in it.
actually going for the display was a real good hunch , these circuits do impress more than look easy to fix , but you found it
Thanks 👍🙂
No proper trained technicians employed now. I remember we had thousands of spare parts for everything. Even masses of mechanical parts for tape cassettes.. Disposable age arrived and killed it.
Yes agree. TV and electrical repair shops are now mainly a thing of the past, or very few and far between.
Fantastic Repair !!! You would think at that price they would have fitted a Stronger Connector to it.
Thanks 👍 or better supported the screen with nuts + bolts and standoffs
Well done Mick, Another terrific video and repair. I would not have thought that connector would do that - bizarre. I have a Bowens flash head (Strobe) with a fault on the modelling lamp circuit which similarly was sent away for repair only to be told that the replacement boards arn't available anymore which they knew but still accepted it and charged £35.00 handling. It is great to see someone who works around issues and actually can repair stuff. Sadly no one else seems interested in repairing my Bowens GM500Pro :( and its a bit out of my league lol mains stuff - shivers
Thanks Steve, what is the unit for? You can always drop me an email. It's the channel's name at out look dot com.
I'm from France. This battery charger is used a lot in car shop in France.
Thanks for sharing 👍
What a legend, Mick the fix lol, An absolutely brilliant fix maybe the other shop screwed up the socket? I would of thought it was robust enough to take a few knocks, those pins looked like it had been forced which had snapped them?
My guess is somebody moved it and smacked the display into something ir was moving some other object near the PS and ran that into it.
Cheers Gary 👍I think if it was being "thrown into a van" or vibrations from being transported around in a van every day might have caused some kind of metal stress fatigue over time.
@@BuyitFixit very possible Mick
attention to detail wins the day and not panicing that its a mcu controlled power factor corrected smps with no schematics!
i would tend to get into negative headspace about that, and that looks like what happened with the previous tech too -you can see they absessed about the smpsu section
not quite finished though ,still that burn up and missing smd to think about , it could be mosfet gate drive shaping and thatll take days to weeks to cause a shorted mosfet + all the other damage that causes
Thanks 👍I think it just looked like decoupling. I had it running for 4 hours after the video and it still ran fine. I think the main issue was just the display.
Nice work Mick. I'm wondering if there was another fault on it that the previous fixer might have worked on, but while working on that they've buggered the display... Good fix that matey, well done.!
Thanks Marc 👍Perhaps the cap blew and the other repairer touched up the diodes and MOSFET which may have looked a bit dry. Then when the unit still didn't work gave up. I think the cap wouldn't make a lot of difference as it just looked like a decoupling cap, and there was another one in parallel with it. If he had looked at the display perhaps he may have found the problem I found too.
Note if it was pin 7 - 10 that were 'broken' that may have been by design because they are not used in 4 bit operation of the display (which is quite common to reduce the data lines required). Interface is a standard Hitachi HD44780 AFAICT
Yes, Hitachi HD44780 interface. Pins 12 (D5),13 (D6),15 (BL Anode) were broken and pin 16 (BL Cathode) was a dry joint. If you look at the PCB they all have traces going to them which then go to pull-up resistors 19:30 , so I guess they were using the 8 bit data mode.
@@BuyitFixit sorry, wasn't trying to be a smart ass... I like you I think was a bit surprised at the failure mode of the connector pins. Thanks!
No worries mate 👍Yes I was surprised at the failure mode too. I think it was more luck that I found it so quickly, although I probably would have found it eventually after testing the metering the lines from the display to the MCU.
Good job and i like your repairs........the screen and the control board under screen are a complete system on its own and u could have tested by just plunging in a USB cable ....it would be the same powering up a adrino board with its screen screen
Thanks 👍I did briefly plug the USB into the PC but I didn't record that part. It didn't seem to do anything. It didn't power up the board / display anything on the screen or enumerate as a device on the PC, so perhaps it needs to be in some kind of "bootloader" mode like the AVerMedia video capture device that I repaired.
You should have known: there is a little red white and blue warning label one it... ;-)
😂😂😂😂😂👍
It stands out how little you are actually measuring. Can you find the problem most of the time just inspecting the board? I'm a hobby electronics tinkerer and like trying to fix things like this myself. As a mather of fact i got one of these at my work that's broken.
A lot if it is observing what the device is doing. The fact that it beeped when powering it on suggested that it was getting power and the microcontroller was working and should have probably been displaying something. If it had not of beeped then I would have started at the power input side and worked through.
After having to do a "firmware update" on my car, that required me to keep the engine running for almost 3 hours, to ensure the battery doesnt go flat during it, I was wondering to myself "I wonder if there was something like a battery charger that could plug into the mains and keep the battery charged, without the engine running, while the ECU updates.
Then a few hours later, this video drops, indirectly answering my question. Yes, yes there is.
WOW 3 hours! It's almost like they were downloading a new XBOX game into it!
That’s exactly what these support units are for, it can deliver up to 100amps for as long as the programming/diagnostics is taking place 👍🏻
You can get a car battery smart/trickle charger for around 50-100usd
Hello.
Some vehicles go to sleep if the engine is not running, and the GPS may stop receiving power. It is safer to update with the engine running.
amazing
Thank you! Cheers!
Ah the joy's of lead free solder!
Yep
I wondered why you'd zero in on the zero ohm "resistor" as a failure component to test. Surely they've got pretty simple innards, just there to bridge tracks.
I've had them fail quite a few times. They are often used as fuses too. See the Wingscapes Birdcam video I did a while back for instance.
Oh, GYS. Bought a GYSPack jumpstart/flashlight/tire inflator combo long ago, the inflator died first - compressor got stalled and the motor shaft broke off. Then the "18Ah" lead-acid battery died so I replaced it with 30Ah LiFe assembly. The only surviving original parts are the flashlight and battery clamps.
Seems the make decent battery clamps then 😂😂😂
They certainly made this to be repaired!
Nice and easy to get into, although getting a screwdriver in to remove the display was a bit of an issue.
For the amount this costs, you would expect the display connector to be through hole and the display mechanically held in place _properly_ with M3 nuts and bolts, not those useless cheap crappy plastic stand offs. Even my cheap component tester that has the same 20x4 character display has the display connector pins soldered through the board.
Good point, very true 👍
Amazing repair and interesting device 👍 so it’s like a fancy battery charger that can also power the car electrics with no battery present 😃
Yes, I think so, although I just fix stuff and haven't actually used one before 😂😂
quick thinking on bending the legs, nice video
Thanks 👍
year's ago we had a TV brand called PYE it was one off the earliest colour TV , my father even paid for extended warranty over a period of the the TV would play up. the service man came out many times and fixed it & sometime later the same problem would occur, so one while my parents were out I removed the back cover it had 4 or 6 circuit board & a cathode ray tube. so I unplugged all of the boards and inspected the PCBs I found on each board about 10 components not soldered properly in place, so I got my 15watt solder iron & solder & resolder the components then replace the PCBs plugged them in accordingly replace the back cover power the TV up & hey presto it worked better than before. it lasted 20 more years, I think what happened was in those days workers would fit components then another worker would solder they would get paid X amount of $ to complete then got paid so much per 10 to 20 TV sets completed. to get the bonuses they would rush the job & not doing a good job the QA man would check them to quickly.
Great story Wayne👍yes I remember PYE my parents had one when I was a kid 🙂
I can watch clever people all day
Thanks 👍🙂
I just place a mirror in front of myself,,,,Do`es that count ...He`s a clever guy ,,
Over priced faulty equipmenr possibly? Thanks for the look.Always enjoy.
No
@@Coolcarting howso?
The GYS Flash 100amp battery charger/supports are widely used in automotive testing/tuning industry, probably not so much in home use as it's a bit overkill for the average home garage, it's not overpriced if you use it everyday for work, I had one for years with no problems, as a mobile tuner, worth every penny of the £600 I bought it for, all my equipment paid for itself many times over with the income they generated.
@@antc1609 thankyou.
You need some smaller solder and a thinner iron tip!
I've got some thinner solder, I find smaller tips don't transfer enough heat though. I normally use a slightly bigger one!
Genius
Cheers 👍
For such an expensive unit, one would think that the design would be better. Great job as always. Did you figure out what that was between pins 1 and 2 of the wide ribbon cable? It looked like there was something stuck between the two solder joints.
Thanks 👍I think it was just a scrape on the board where the connector had been removed.
Great video as usual...can I ask what soldering iron/flux you're using and bought where? Thanks again.
Thanks 👍Check the video description. I've put a list of most of the tools I use in there 😉👍
Some people I assume not garages use HP server PSU's modified for this purpose. Which are 12V output altered to give 13.8V.
I could see that working.
luck or not, problem found in a few minutes ❤❤❤
Thanks 🙂👍
3:27 upper left hand corner. Massacre!
😂😂😂
Nice repair, but I wonder if one of the mosfets in the PSU is not heatsinked properly? Seems like someone else worked on one of them, and the heatsink may not be touching the mosfet properly anymore. Might be worth checking out?
Thanks 👍 I doubt they got enough heat on that to remove it (as that was one of the things mentioned). I think they just touched up the legs with an iron.
These chaps made the board look like a crepe design. A couple of road markers could have changed intercontinental attitudes re holidays abroad. Hang, jjust say , “ follow this sign”, and “a thank you “, would be forthcoming. Remember that the battle of avincourt, was you versus you😂.
😂😂😂
Good show, an expensive device saved from landfill. Surprised that the connector pads hadn't ripped off the PCB. Not a fan of these devices. PS, I didn't know you were Australian.
Definitely saved from LandFill. After the previous repairer (if you can call him that looking at the state of the board) gave up I thought it was game over. Mick’s skills to the recuse.
Thanks Ralph 👍Australian? lol
Good repair👀👍👍👍🍻 and a intresting tool
A tipp,,, 23:25 The hot glue doesn't last long. The glue hardens after a while and breaks.
A better choice is silicone.
Depends on what you'd call a while, or hard. I still got glue sticks from over 20y ago, not hard, doesn't break and still use it.
@@BrainHurricanes the hot glue here in germany is after the cool down hard not soft. Over the time , mechanical stress causes it to separate from the workpiece. Ive seen often. In the 80's,90's in the consumer devices there are a lot on the connectors. Meanwhile you will see silicone. Escpecially at the capacitors..
@@Lightrunner. Could be, it doesn't sound like regular hobby hot glue that I know of. The glue used in the video you can melt over and over again. What I do believe is that if the thing glued isn't degreased it will release over time.
I'm afraid he won't understand unless you say "Silikin" 😅
Yes a silly cone is one of those things you see along the roadside 😂😂😂
That was an odd fault. The display looked to be pretty well supported.
Maybe a low quality connector from the factory and it didn't take much knocking about to break the pins?
Yes, I was surprised by the connector being broken. I thought it was just a few dry joints or no power getting to the LCD and was quite surprised as you seen when I started re-soldering the pins!
Another fantastic result, genius 1, charger 0 😂👍
Thanks 👍😂😂
You are too damn clever 😊
100% agree
Thanks 👍
I'm somewhat surprised the original tech didn't pick that up. Given the display is at fault, wouldn't you would take out the display and examine it first?
Yes, I would have thought that too.
It's a good job you tried the other display or it may have had you running around in circles
Yes, I wanted to rule out that the display wasn't faulty, then noticed the dry joint. I surely wasn't expecting the connector to be broken underneath. That was purely found by chance!
It would be so cool if you could do a vintage radio repair video or even a vintage cb radio.
I'd actually been looking for a nice vintage radio or ghettoblaster or such, Thanks for the suggestion 👍
@@BuyitFixit Cant wait thank you for making awesome videos!
Thanks Charles 🙂👍
4:44 pfc bridge
Thanks for that👍. I've not came across one before, and it does indeed say power factor correction on the tin! I'm going to have a look into those.
Cannot believe you didn't use flux when soldering new connector in - ROOKIE move
Normally it's fine, but I had the connector a few years so it was slightly oxidized
Lol, stupid comment from someone who has never soldered in his life. The solder already HAS flux, you idiot. Stop watching garbage videos where they drown everything in flux, it's not necessary.
What the company meant "You cannot see the fan right so it's fanless of course".
😂😂😂😂
Also, any chance we can see what your component storage area looks like? You always seem to have extras of everything :) I try to save extras but always feel like a hoarder:)
Lol, my "component" storage area is probably a pile of boxes full of random crap 😂😂
You are a Genius No Doubt !!!!
Cheers Fred 👍
Great design let down by a poxy 2p connector, apparently.
Yes pretty much 👍
I can see why the other guy struggled, that board would require loads of heat to remove the connector 🤣🤣
Totally agree, although I think he was using a bent nail heated via a blowtorch 🤣🤣🤣
Seems the "local electronics repair shop" got a long way into repairing this and replaced loads of parts before falling at the final hurdle..
Yes 😂😂I'm not even sure if they replaced any parts, just looks like they removed the blown decoupling capacitor and possible soldered a few dry joints.. then gave up 🤷♂️
I get the impression the people aren't fans of this technology... "Fanless" Dad jokes aside great fix especially as others failed, I have the 5024hf version which is physically the same but for trucks etc I quite often max it out whilst programming but it puts up with the abuse great piece of kit
Thanks 👍I just did a quick search and it looks a very similar including the display. If the display ever goes off at least you now know what the likely culprit is 🙂
@@BuyitFixit I'm tempted to give it the hot glue treatment just in case tbh
The job is called Vehicle Electrician btw matey
I always thought it was they were called Auto Electricians as in Auto Electrics.
@@BuyitFixit Auto electrician is short for automobile electrician which is yank English.
In Great Britain 🇬🇧 we are referred to as Vehicle Electrician's.
Signed
A real certified Vehicle Electrician.
Ps have a Great Easter matey
Hope you had a great Easter too 👍🙂
The 2 little transformers could be gate drivers
Yes looking back at the video, and knowing what that IC does I'm pretty sure that's what they are.
nice charger, is the output of it capable of 100A? that would be pushing the 50A Anderson type connection.
That is indeed a very good point. I've just checked the connector and it is indeed a 50A Anderson, although it looks in good condition and has no signs of overheating. So either the connector is under-rated, the charger is over-rated, or they very rarely pull 100A.
There is a calibration mode where the charger measures resistanse in cable and connector. It automatically adjusts output voltage at the charger depending on current to give exactly the requested voltage in the car. I guess they have made their own tests for how long the connector can take 100A before overheating and implemented in the firmware since the Anderson datasheet only lists temperature up to 70A.
The internal forced air circulation probably helps.