Well thought out, clever and unique solutions, high quality products, for the fairest price possible. This is what separates Taylor Tools from the rest of the competition and why they are THE BEST!
Interesting. One of the first things I did when I got my mag switches was to make a template so I could route a proper sized, tight fitting hole. The second thing I did was, buy my son a couple of mag switches and make a template for him too! This looks like a great, out of the box solution.
Perfect timing Mike!! I bought the 2 pack of MagJig 150s and the template kit from you and they were delivered last week. I am building dust hood for my 4 wheel buffing rig on my lathe and it will be held on with the two MagJig 150s. This video was perfect timing on the tricks and tips for using the routing template. Thanks!!
Hey Mike, I already bought the kit, so this video came out just in time. I was wondering what the point was for the smaller piece that fits in the larger hole. Well DUH! It is to provide a centering point for the Forstner bit. Of course. Thank you for tutorial on how to use this clever jig. It is brilliant!
When Mike Taylor introduced his drill-press sharpening system, I thought "This is the pinnacle; Mike has given us his ultimate innovation". Wrong! Keep it coming, Mike! P.S. I once attended a presentation by the great tool designer John Economaki. The man is a certified genius, and the way he fielded questions demonstrated how his nimble mind is always innovating. However, with all due respect to John E., Mike thinks in the same way, but adopting the (literal) PRODUCTS of his thinking will not drain my bank account! 😁
Another great idea and great video. The kit will be on my next order. I too would like to see something for the 95# as I have a couple of those as well. Thought maybe a master plate with swappable 150# and 95# inserts might be worth looking into. Just spit-balling. - Chris
Thank you for the information. Very good idea! I see Mag switches have different strengths. Have you come across situations where one would need a stronger magnet than a 95 pound? Please make a video using the bandsaw jig. Thanks in advance
This is great. I was literally just getting ready to make a table saw feed roller jig thingy using the Mag Switches and wondering how to design the mounting board. Being able to quickly remove the Switches to use elsewhere in the shop is ideal. Great idea! I have a question though. I cannot find a guide anywhere on Microjig or elsewhere that says what size magnets to use for a particular application or jig. What size should I use for a table saw roller feed jig?
This is fairly obvious, but you don't need two screws to prevent rotation and you don't need the oblong hole. 1a: Simply glue two "cleats" next to one of the ends. This will keep it from rotating. 1b: Or drill a hole through some 1/4"? cut half of it off and glue this on one end (,or both) This is the two cleats thing in one piece. But both of these are rather cobbled methods and shouldn't be used. 2a: drill two holes where screws go and drive in two screws, preferably brass. Cut off tops and these two pins replace the screws you might use. No need to screw and unscrew magnet just slip on and slip off. *2b: instead of screws use brass rod and simply press or glue in the holes. (You could use steel or aluminum, **_but brass is much more refined and noble.)_* This one I just discovered is a repeat of what @brentboerner6907 suggested. 3a: cover the magnet with waxed paper Suran wrap or other glue release material. Push through (round) hole. Mix up some epoxy or sawdust thickened wood glue. Goober up around the exposed top. When cured remove magnet. Remove glue release and you have a custom shaped pocket that prevents the thing from rotating. This is also very ugly, and it is not allowed in 283 countries. 3b: Same as above but done below to make round hole oblong hole. Much prettier. 4a: after drilling hole, insert magnet. FLIP OVER. glue in small bit of wood or dowels to fill in the gap near ends. 4b drill two holes sideways to intercept the end of magnet. screw in screws or push in dowel to keep magnet from rotating. This one is 90* from 3a. Through the edge rather from the top. 5: for the hardcore. drill the hole through material about 1" thick or so, insert the magnet. draw around the top, remove magnet and chisel out waste down to the proper depth. The top is pocketed, and the depth is correct. *if you are going this route you might want to buy the template or at this level of work make your own instead of the custom fit chiseling.* For shims you should be veneering your plywood jigs already. Veneer measures about 1/45" or .022" just about right. You should be veneering them because plain plywood with exposed ragged edges and no finish looks ugly. No jig manufacturer produces Jigs to this level of ugliness. (Rockler, Woodpecker...) A last tip is if you have a Silhouette or Cricut you can make your own shims for anything any shape. These are craft machines that are actually a CNC knife.
I only have a lower power MagSwitch that requires a 1" hole. I never add screws to my jigs. I'll just hold switch while turning it if it tries to turn.
@@brentboerner6907 - I think the way the jig is designed, the MagSwitch cannot rotate in the hole created, so the dowels would not really serve any purpose, would they? It just seems like more work and more fiddling. I'm probably missing the point or something.
Wonderful.. Now if they could only make something for aluminum table tops .. LOL! (I guess I gotta spend the money and upgrade table saw and bandsaw...)
Well thought out, clever and unique solutions, high quality products, for the fairest price possible. This is what separates Taylor Tools from the rest of the competition and why they are THE BEST!
Great idea. Would love to see more about those jigs in the background.
I have a video planned for all those jigs. Stay tuned.
Interesting. One of the first things I did when I got my mag switches was to make a template so I could route a proper sized, tight fitting hole. The second thing I did was, buy my son a couple of mag switches and make a template for him too! This looks like a great, out of the box solution.
You beat em toi it!! You are a good father to give your kids tools.
Perfect timing Mike!! I bought the 2 pack of MagJig 150s and the template kit from you and they were delivered last week. I am building dust hood for my 4 wheel buffing rig on my lathe and it will be held on with the two MagJig 150s. This video was perfect timing on the tricks and tips for using the routing template. Thanks!!
Glad we could help!!
That was easy! Had me at the magnet spinning in the Forstner hole without screws in place. Another great idea From Taylor Tools!
Hey Mike, I already bought the kit, so this video came out just in time. I was wondering what the point was for the smaller piece that fits in the larger hole. Well DUH! It is to provide a centering point for the Forstner bit. Of course.
Thank you for tutorial on how to use this clever jig. It is brilliant!
You got it!
just bought the kit - Great idea Mike!
Many thanks for the support.
Great 'how to' vid. I like the thought of making my own mag-templates. Guess I'll need some shims. 😉
❤
When Mike Taylor introduced his drill-press sharpening system, I thought "This is the pinnacle; Mike has given us his ultimate innovation". Wrong! Keep it coming, Mike! P.S. I once attended a presentation by the great tool designer John Economaki. The man is a certified genius, and the way he fielded questions demonstrated how his nimble mind is always innovating. However, with all due respect to John E., Mike thinks in the same way, but adopting the (literal) PRODUCTS of his thinking will not drain my bank account! 😁
That is a genuinely excellent idea. Would you consider making templates for the smaller versions?
Maybe. Let's see how this one does as the 150s are the best selling version
These work great! I also have the sharpening system for the drill press, exceptional idea! Thanks Mike.
Another great idea and great video. The kit will be on my next order. I too would like to see something for the 95# as I have a couple of those as well. Thought maybe a master plate with swappable 150# and 95# inserts might be worth looking into. Just spit-balling. - Chris
Hey, that's not a bad idea, 2 jigs in one.
Thank you for your always innovative ideas!
You are welcome!
Love love love this idea! I have the 95s though. Will the template still work? Maybe with a bushing?
These will not work with the 95s. Sorry about that. We sell 10x more 150s so made the jig for them. Not sure we'll make one for the 95s.
Thank you for the information. Very good idea! I see Mag switches have different strengths. Have you come across situations where one would need a stronger magnet than a 95 pound?
Please make a video using the bandsaw jig. Thanks in advance
Thanks. Now I need a table saw with a metal top!😅
Will you be making templates for other Magswitch sizes in the future? I have some of the smaller ones...
We do not have on in the works, but maybe.
Great video, Mike.
Thanks Yoav!!
This is great. I was literally just getting ready to make a table saw feed roller jig thingy using the Mag Switches and wondering how to design the mounting board. Being able to quickly remove the Switches to use elsewhere in the shop is ideal. Great idea! I have a question though. I cannot find a guide anywhere on Microjig or elsewhere that says what size magnets to use for a particular application or jig. What size should I use for a table saw roller feed jig?
I would use the Magjig 150 as it has more pull. Good question!
Nice Job. Thank you
Thanks!!
This is fairly obvious, but you don't need two screws to prevent rotation and you don't need the oblong hole.
1a: Simply glue two "cleats" next to one of the ends. This will keep it from rotating.
1b: Or drill a hole through some 1/4"? cut half of it off and glue this on one end (,or both) This is the two cleats thing in one piece. But both of these are rather cobbled methods and shouldn't be used.
2a: drill two holes where screws go and drive in two screws, preferably brass. Cut off tops and these two pins replace the screws you might use. No need to screw and unscrew magnet just slip on and slip off.
*2b: instead of screws use brass rod and simply press or glue in the holes. (You could use steel or aluminum, **_but brass is much more refined and noble.)_*
This one I just discovered is a repeat of what @brentboerner6907 suggested.
3a: cover the magnet with waxed paper Suran wrap or other glue release material. Push through (round) hole. Mix up some epoxy or sawdust thickened wood glue. Goober up around the exposed top. When cured remove magnet. Remove glue release and you have a custom shaped pocket that prevents the thing from rotating. This is also very ugly, and it is not allowed in 283 countries.
3b: Same as above but done below to make round hole oblong hole. Much prettier.
4a: after drilling hole, insert magnet. FLIP OVER. glue in small bit of wood or dowels to fill in the gap near ends.
4b drill two holes sideways to intercept the end of magnet. screw in screws or push in dowel to keep magnet from rotating. This one is 90* from 3a. Through the edge rather from the top.
5: for the hardcore. drill the hole through material about 1" thick or so, insert the magnet. draw around the top, remove magnet and chisel out waste down to the proper depth. The top is pocketed, and the depth is correct. *if you are going this route you might want to buy the template or at this level of work make your own instead of the custom fit chiseling.*
For shims you should be veneering your plywood jigs already. Veneer measures about 1/45" or .022" just about right. You should be veneering them because plain plywood with exposed ragged edges and no finish looks ugly.
No jig manufacturer produces Jigs to this level of ugliness. (Rockler, Woodpecker...)
A last tip is if you have a Silhouette or Cricut you can make your own shims for anything any shape. These are craft machines that are actually a CNC knife.
Do you sell the glue stick that you used in the video? If not, what is the brand name of the glue stick?
I only have a lower power MagSwitch that requires a 1" hole. I never add screws to my jigs. I'll just hold switch while turning it if it tries to turn.
That works.
You could add metal dowel pins to the jig. Then screws not necessary
Not sure what you mean??
Drill holes through screw holes diameter of the hole into jig and insert steel dowel pins in the jig
Jig would have dowel pins for magswich to drop on
@@brentboerner6907 - I think the way the jig is designed, the MagSwitch cannot rotate in the hole created, so the dowels would not really serve any purpose, would they? It just seems like more work and more fiddling. I'm probably missing the point or something.
@David_K_pi dowel pins would allow use of a simple drilled round hole
Well done
Thanks!
how much for the laser svg pattern for the jig and shims?
14,99. Very reasonable.
most of my jigs are mdf which is exactly 3/4.
Just make a washer of the size you need to raise the magnet to the right position.
Wonderful.. Now if they could only make something for aluminum table tops .. LOL! (I guess I gotta spend the money and upgrade table saw and bandsaw...)
I get right on that aluminum magnet. That would change the world!!
@@TaylorToolworks I think it's called Double sided tape.... ;)
You don;t even have to screw them down
if you are going to screw the mag switch down why can't the the hole be over sized. seems like this is over thought
Those are really annoying limitations, because they could all have been avoided with a better design. Someone needs to make a better version of these.