I’m retired now but was in the auto industry for 42 years, these tips have a lot of value. For vehicles that aren’t used regularly a trickle/battery maintenance charger is very important, especially in cold climates. A fully charged battery can survive down to -40*f but a discharged or dead battery can freeze at 32*f destroying its internal structure. It will never come back. So get a charger made for colder climates. 😊
Ahmed and David - seriously, this would be the dream team for Toyota and Lexus owners - between them they could cover every aspect of each model, no problem.
This young man has so much good information. In my opinion, the most important item he lists is checking your tire pressures, making sure you do this every first of the month. So important.
Put on your seatbelt, turn on your car, adjust settings if needed, put in to drive. Drive slowly till you get out to main road. When temp gauge start to move, your car is warmed up. When you get off main road coming home slow down you should be in the neighborhood with 30 mph speed limit anyway. You should be cold down when you arrive home.
Another thing that might be good to know about the wipers is some of them can have just the rubber or silicone strip replaced rather than the whole blade. You can also get more life out of that rubber by cleaning them with a paper towel and some WD-40 or similar spray, as that stuff is excellent at lifting existing dirt off.
Good advice :). For mice 🐭 toned areas, mix peppermint and cinnamon essential oils, into an emulsion, and spray that around. No more mice. I drive trucks and heavy equipment in Saskatchewan, lots of mice looking for homes come fall…. That solution has completely solved nice issues.
3:38 I learnt that the hard way on my old kia rio. The water pressure at the car wash place was so strong it destroyed the clear coat on the top of the rearview mirrors and bumper bars. With my new car I invested in an electric pressure washer and cleaning chems to do at home, far safer, better clean and cheaper in the long run with 30% off sales.
I agree with most of your suggestions. However, one I disagree with is ( never use rains) I have used it for eons and it works great, as long as you maintain it. You mentioned wiper blades, you failed to mention using windshield washer fluid to periodically clean the blades. Along with that, new wiper blades need to be cleaned before their first use because the machining process leaves debris on the the blade.
Don't neglect changing the auto transmission oil, even though manufacturer claims it is a "sealed unit" , hence no dipstick. A transmission specialist will do this job at a fraction of the cost compared to most dealers. Also power steer fluid, if applicable and differential oil.
This is a great video! I don't drive a lot so my oil change interval is twice a year. I do this in April/May then in October/November because I don't want to work outside in the heat or cold. Project Farm determined that Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is the best for the money. $30 for 5 quarts. Your engine will outlast the rest of the car. Other things are that I never turn the steering wheel unless I am moving. It is a tremendous strain and wear. Do this and your steering will feel tight at 100k miles. Brake moderately. As soon as you see the red light ahead, take your foot off the gas. I try to slow to the point where I don't have to stop all the way...to just keep rolling. Thanks David Chao and great name too! I subscribed and liked!
Extra things I think are important. When I first start my 24 Pathfinder, the idle is higher the first few seconds. I would wait those seconds until putting into gear. That should prolong the engine and transmission. If you live in the north, having an engine heater or parking in the garage sure is nice on the engine and to get the heater going faster. If you live in the south, many parts of the car cook too hot. Park in the garage or shade whenever possible. I spend $1,30 to take the toll road over the road with 10 stoplights. I save gas, brakes, engine, transmission, and time.
I fill up an orange bucket from the shower until it gets warm before I shower. I don’t waste water. I use two wash cloths to wipe down my car. One towel for wiping above the door molding and the other for below the molding. Because the wash cloth below the molding has sand in it and will scratch the paint.
Apparently turning off the start/stop doesn't prevent wear anymore, the cars that have it ship with more robust starters, and the engine is going to stay warm. The engineers have studied it and found that starting a warm engine won't cause wear the same way that starting it cold does, especially with the lower friction piston rings and thinner modern oils. Also it takes about 7 seconds worth of fuel at idle to start the car, so it's almost always going to save fuel. For those who want to reduce the risk of fine scratching or marring when washing their car, don't rinse with water to start if you can help it, start with a soap or foam stage so the dirt will lift off and be encapsulated rather than being sandblasted against the paint by high pressure water.
More use = more wear Everything else is marketing speak and flowery disingenuous justifications. This system adds numerous completely unnecessary over-engineered new points of failure, not just at the starter, the increased costs are passed right to the customer for something with virtually no practical benefit.
@@NerdlySquared By that reasoning, if I am able to bend an aluminum bat that's got 1mm thick of aluminum by smashing it on something, I should be able to bend a 5mm thick one by applying the same force. The benefit of a start/stop system are improved fuel economy, one of the largest costs for owners of SUVs and trucks. Not a big factor for compact sedan/hatch owners though. Studies have shown that startup burns the same amount of fuel as 7 seconds of idle, so if you are stopped at a light for say 20 seconds on average, you will save big over your years of ownership, and if the starter is built to be 5x as resilient and only costs $100 more, it's still a big net savings.
I disconnected the i-stop feature on my Mazda 6 2.5T to prevent cooking the oil in the turbo at every traffic light. There seems to be plenty of prematurely deceased batteries resulting from I-stop too, which are extra costly to replace.
@@thedon7530 Yeah I think turbos and batteries are probably the two exceptions to the rule of these start/stop systems being good. If you are driving at highway speed and then stop and immediately shut the car off without giving the turbo time to cool down, you will eventually prematurely wear out the turbo. If you have a manual shutoff for start/stop, I would definitely use it in a non-hybrid car if you're hitting a ton of stop signs, or if you were going fast and then had to come to a sudden stop for a train or something like that.
@@theredscourgeI don't think you even know whose channel you are watching. He actually is one of those engineers and yet he doesn't like that feature. Saving that you mentioning is not there because it is taxing on battery, so batteries ends up more frequent changes and those batteries not cheap. That stop and go feature also keeps frequently stranding people in the middle of intersection. We have multiple forums that are boiling about it. Those who turned that feature off, had zero problems with battery lasting 3 years vs those who use it have battery failure in 1-2 years.
To add on to what you said about the break-in., if you have a truck you should avoid towing or hauling heavy things while the engine is still breaking in. It stresses the drive train more
You are absolutely right about OEM wipers! I've had my Ford Fusion for 10 years and that's all I've used. However, OEM parts being better is not always the case. TIRES are the opposite... Always buy quality aftermarket. I've got item 26 for you to keep your car longer: don't crash it! 😊
For bird poo, simply wet a paper towel, drain excess water, fold it, and place on the poo for 20-30 minutes, leave longer if super dry in hot, summer climate. 😊
Regarding rodents, my sister's ES 350 had that very problem. Fortunately, they only chewed through two wires to the ignition coils and it was an easy fix to splice the wires back together. Our garage is indoors, so sadly that won't necessarily fix it. To get rid of the rodents, we removed the nest and then took off the beauty covers, which is what helped create the perfectly sized warm dark place. With the cover off, the engine bay was a lot more open and thus less hospitable. We also got battery powered ultra sonic repellents and the combination of these has helped keep them away.
The ceramic coating technology. To be honest I'm still on the fence about going this particular route. I would have at ease going with a high grade natural canaby wax one wax per season as long as the water beads up and roll off I'm satisfied.
Another but of advice. Don't buy an expensive nice car unless you have a garage to park it in. Parking a car outside causes severe wear and tear.. For awhile, had to park one of my cars on the street cause one of my garages was being worked on. The car that sat outside was always covered in dirt, grime, tree sap, bird poop, leaves, literally was awful. Never park your car outside if you are OCD about keeping it clean like me
All good points. I think you may have forgot one - run the air conditioner every week or two during the winter for 5-10 minutes on days when the outside temp is above freezing.
I didn’t quite get what you were saying to put on top of a clearcoat. My car is two years old. I live in Florida. We get love bugs and sun fades. Cars. Which soap do I use to wash the car with and I didn’t quite get what you were using to wash the windows I hope I can keep this up. I’m 78 seems so much easier to go through the car wash but if it’s better for the car, I’ll try to do it myself, I’m loving my Hyundai 2022 with all the safety features because I constantly hit the curbs now I can see him them lol
Very intelligently presented. Thank you. Only thing i would add is to do oil change after the first 1000 miles to remove metal paricles in oil. I saw a lubricant specialist recommend that. Also, to drive gently using low revs until car reaches operating temperature.
All smart and common sense advice - thanks - especially for the early oil changes and the care of driving for the first 1,000 klms - I also advise changing oil after first 1,000 klms (as tiny micro metal bits break off when running in (I saw them when changing the oil myself after 1,000 klms). I also agree on OEM wipers! Yes! NEVER USE A CAR WASH ! And use sofy brushes when washing and rinse brushes regular in a separate bucket of clean water. PS NO engine cleaning on hybris cars - too much power running through some cables & wires!
Great video David, just a couple of others that I’d like to let viewers know about. Never use glass cleaner on touch screens like windex as it will permanently damage the screen. Also touch up paint chips that have exposed bare metal as soon as possible, so the bare metal doesn’t start to corrode.
During the winter, i use the clear flood mode, to allow the engine to turn over but not start, oil pump allows oil to circulate, water pump doesnt stay in same position, as well as serpintine belt. As far as varmints under the hood, i remove the engine beauty cover, which i found 90 % of most nest are built.
I just bought a new car and changed the engine oil at 600 kilometres …. usually I fill the oil filter but it’s a Subbie with the filter mounted on top of the motor …. the clear flood start is an excellent way to prime any engine with oil before starting, thanks for your advice. 👍
Engineer to engineer... Great points! All the things I practice and have learned over decades of vehicle ownership. 👍👍 I hate that auto stop/start system. One reason I changed to a hybrid! As far as rodents, I've found the only thing that works is to leave the hood up. If you have a garage, this works. Since doing that, never had a nest or damage. I do the same with my lawn equipment over winter, removing the engine covers, under which the mice love to nest. I also try to avoid dealer servicing at all costs! Expensive and poor quality work. I do my own maintenance. Oil filters do not need to be tightened so much that they require to be chiseled off after a dealer oil change! 😡
Great points thanks. I have a question. I’ve heard conflicting things. Can you apply a wax over paint that’s been ceramic coated? What type of wax can be applied? Thanks!
David, Re: your mention of tackling the question of automotive undercoating in a future video. What do you think of simply using a high quality clear coat for a new car on those areas that are subject to corrosion, such as all painted areas, nut & bolts, frame/chassis , etc. The alternatives are usually messy and they have a short life & would need to be reapplied.
It will be difficult to find a clear coat paint that will stay on and not get peeled from road debris... but if you can find a clearcoat that's thicker than normal ones it may be worth a try.
Great video, here are some of my notes: 22:00 Some aftermarket companies produce OEM parts for manufacturers. In that case, you are just paying a markup for a rebrand. I prefer to use OEM parts where tolerances are more unforgiving, like the serpentine belt which using aftermarket may squeal. Same with the timing belt tensioner, idler pulleys, etc. If it’s a radio, then it does not matter if it’s aftermarket IMO. Knowing when it is acceptable to use aftermarket is a good balance between cost and reliability because OEM parts add up FAST. 23:00 Buy a reputable trickle battery charger, ideally with overcharge protection. Sometimes, overcharging shows as corrosion on the positive terminal. At least on my car it did. 29:30 The average driver does not have the skills to out drive their bone stock car. Mod the driver first (autocross, drag, HPDE or other driver improvement education), then mod the car after.
OEM wiper blades. The man speaks pure truth. The cheap crap you get at auto parts stores doesn't even last a fraction of the time one can experience with OEM blades. I've gone 8-9 years on OEM's and ended up selling the car before I replaced the wipers because there was simply no need to do so. Threw auto parts store "premium" (I hate that word) blades on wife's car and the squeaking started immediately followed by a much needed replacement 2 years later.
@@DavidCartwright-ih6dsI've never heard of that and don't know anybody who does that. I don't even think they sell "winter blades" or "summer blades" at all at least in Europe
One big thing just before the summer heat is replacing the cabin air filter-filter's, I guess this could also be part of keeping it clean and Nice ice cold A/C, On our Honda's these filters are easy to change by dropping the glovebox down, Many how to Videos here on RUclips of course for that and almost everything else. But a Great list so far Dave, You or the Car care nut also mentioned Not to use Ammonia based glass cleaner's on infotainment screens because it has destroyed some of them in the past, Anyways Thanks 🇺🇸👍.
I live in the rust belt, how do you feel about oil based undercoating to stop rusting during winter road salt season? I've seen here and there that hybrids aren't supposed to get it done.
Fellow northshore person here, I thought I recognize that background! Thanks for all the info on your channel. For paint, I found out the hard way geyser water is really REALLY bad for your paint. Really really bad....
Fantastic advise and I really appreciate that you didn't say, "don't modify your car" in terms of more power etc.. but do your research and release more power can add more stress on the car.
Always very insightful! I will save this video to a playlist, so I can rewatch it occasionally, because I have 2 rather expensive vehicles that I want to preserve, the best I can. Very helpful, as always. Thanks!😊
@@AutomotivePress Yes, I need a slightly bigger tire. The 8.9 inch clearance is a bit too low on trails, and I get rubbing on familiar trails, where my 4Runner never did, and at lower speed. I think 9.5 inch will be perfect and thinking Lexus should offer the Overtrail models with a factory lift. I was able to get a dealership option small lift and bigger off road tires for my previous 2019 4Runner TRD Offroad, so I wouldn't mind a similar dealer option for the GX. I can't modify it like I did the cheaper 4Runner, so a set of tires is all I need. I always appreciate your advice and insight!😊
@@lunamaria1048 I'm getting a set of Falcon Wildpeak AT4W with wide 9" wheels soon. Can't wait to try out... you should definitely upgrade your set too! I might be getting a GX Overtrail in November as well, so lots of things to figure out. Where and how are we going to meet up to do some comparison and off road driving?
@@AutomotivePress I think you will get a GX 550 lol. Which one? I do like the factory Toyo Open Country A/TIII tires on the Overtrail, but just want something a bit more durable to punctures. Utah has very diverse trails, with familiar forest trails like in BC, as well as dry desert trails, rocky trails, and the Overtrail handles it all very well! It handled the drive from Utah, to Vancouver (and back) very well too (over 3000 kilometers!). I am very happy with it, so far! How is the Land Cruiser compared to the 4Runner? I have 2 friends who traded their 4Runners for the LC and I hear good things! My next trip to Vancouver (for the holidays) won't be a drive, so I'm not sure how we can compare lol.
@@lunamaria1048 Hey so sorry that I missed this message! I have a Nori Green GX 550 Overtrail coming in November but I do have some second thoughts about it... anyhow, I just changed out the tires on the LC for a 285/55/20 Falkins with a small +20 offset - have to show you how good this setup is! Let me known when you are coming back this way!
Had some ppf coating my truck before. It helps with rock chips but they can still get through the coating. When it does get through the coating, it doesn't get to thr bare metal, so it was easy to touch up. I would get ppf on the headlights though. It makes it much more resistant to uv rays
Me too but also makes me mad. We literally just bought a rx350 and specifically asked about that. They sold us on newer leathers don’t do that but I think we got a story sold to us
@@CJ-rk5eg we had a 2010 Nissan with light colored leather. My wife’s jeans had been washed but definitely left a stain My jeans have been washed repeatedly for 10-20 years. I doubt they will stain! But I still feel we were sold a story by the Lexus salesmen on improved new leather quality not doing this
I absolutely LOVE this video. I didn't know about the "jeans" thing. That is new info to me. I totally agree with everything on here. I see people scratch up their paint all the time. You really need to wash your car by yourself. I live in south Florida, so I don't agree with the PSI tire advice. I use an old tooth brush and "Super Clean" to spot clean very tough areas.
@@aaronsmegmasson7184 If you’re homeless you should be focused on buying a house not buying a nice car that needs washed. I shake my head when I see expensive cars at apartments. They should be driving old cars with faded paint.
@@user-tb7rn1il3qThis is a goofy post. It hasn't been economical to buy a home for years now. People renting out homes have mortgages at rates 7-8x better than those available. I'm going to punitively downvote you for boomer posting. Learn from this.
Awesome video. I will not only wash my car by hand and drive my old garaged sports car once a week. Does ANYONE know how to get rid of the brembo low speed brake squeak? Been told that this is a known issue.
I'm loosely laying aluminum foil on flat part of the engine bay after turning off the engine to keep rats away and that seems to work. Would my engine get damaged over time because laying foil takes longer for the engine to cool down?
Can somebody bring back the car of the 1990s and early 2000s that were well-built and lasted forever. Of course I'm talking about mostly imports. Why do we really need all of this stuff that just breaks things that are add ons
You mean you want me to actually use physical labor to scoot my seat forward and back? It's not enough that I had to pull on the handle and then pull the door open 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
You're dreaming if you think that will happen. As I type this they're plotting how to make you subscribe to car "ownership" where they milk you as much as possible without you owning anything
@@lexannaamnell6593LOL😂 I agree, I have a simple gas car from 1993, 31 years old and going strong. No turbo, no tons of electronics, no cheap super thin paint that basically washes off. Just simple 4 cylinder. Too bad these old cars rust, especially if driven in winter on salty roads, the salt is literally making them disintegrate. But engine wise, they lasted a lot longer than modern bs cars where engineers analyze every last bit and try to save every last cent to make the car as cheap as possible and don't care about longevity. I highly doubt that more than let's say 10% of cars made today will be driving around 31 years from now, like my car does
Thanks, David! Really great tips! Could I also ask about the Sports Mode that many new cars come with nowadays, with just a flick/push of the gear lever. What's your advice on driving with Sports Mode or should we stay off using that? Also about using manual override on automatic gearboxes. As you know, some gearboxes are not programmed well/optimised or that they shift too early etc. Would switching to manual override cause more damage to the engine? Thanks.
Neither of those would cause issues but they will use more gas since engine will rev up earlier and transmission shifting earlier as well. So a bit more wear and tear if you do those things...
This is exactly what I feel on my brand new Toyota highlander 2.4l turbo. My area is not flat but hilly. Putting it on Normal mode the car is lugging when going on an incline...so I have to force the transmission the down shift to get more power. Now, I am trying to put it in Sport Mode when going uphill. The ECO mode is even more pathetic. This new car has no better milage than the 2002 Sienna that I was replaced. I'm kind of disappointed,they should offer the V6 as an option. Can David share us the insight why every company is going this route?
David, my wife just purchased a 2025 Lexus Nx 350 hybrid .Salesman says use regular fuel owners manual says 91 octane or higher recommended 87 minimum. Whats your take? Will 87 shorten the engine life ? Great videos. Looking forward to seeing more, thanks.
The lexus uses higher octane to get more horsepower out of the turbocharger. It won't hurt to use 87, it'll just be a little less powerful when driving
Great selection of tips. I put a small 3 x 5 canvas sack with cat fur in my engine bay and seems to keep animals away. Coincidence? Not sure! Would love to hear your thoughts on anti corrosion methods for the under carriage. Picking up a 6th gen 4runner and want to ensure inside of tail gate and underside stay rust free!
If you are in a heavy salt area I would go and get the undercarriage treated at a local anti rust shop. They can coat the whole undercarriage. Here in Seattle we don’t get rust but if you are in the rust zone you’ll have plenty of folks that offer that service. I would get done every 5 years probably.
There are some water less options from Ammo NYC and Rubbit, but I look for a good hand wash place or take my supplies to a pay n’ spray to wash it myself with a rinseless cleaner like Absolute, ONR or DIY Detail.
You stated that car manufacturers service recs are the bare minimum. I disagree…. if anything they’re recommending some services too frequently…. probably to generate income. As an example, Acura ( in the owners manual) calls for differential oil changes every 15K miles for my MDX. Necessary? What do you think?
Auto stop/start is good when sitting at lights for a long time -- it saves significant money over time. It is just bad if you use it over 300,000 times. So, if you know your route, just turn it off when the lights tend to turn green quickly.
What do you think about this? I have dodge chargers 2020 that 106,000 miles never changed the transmission fluid, it's these "sealed for life" ones. I already know this is BS. With these chargers to change the fluid you will have to change out the oil pane and filter because it's integrated. Can be pricey, but what I'm asking now is with this higher mileage would you just leave it or just change the oil pan and filter and just add new fluid without a flush? I've been trying to get good recommendations for a long time now, but everyone just keeps saying no fluid is for life, I'm past that now , I know this and I understand it is BS. What do you think? Oh I also have a 2023 V8 charger with about 4000 miles and I want to know for future reference for that vehicle also. Thanks
I had wires on my AC chewed on my Toyota. I had no choice as to where to park it. A mechanic suggested I put several moth balls in a bag and hang it under the hood. Never had any more damage from rodents.
Genuine parts are not OEM. OEM parts are made by makers that supply genuine parts to a manufacturer. OEM parts can be great, but they are not Genuine. I work for an OEM manufacturer..: we make parts for different automakers to their specs. We also sell the nearly same parts we make for the automaker to places like Autozone (as OEM of course). OEM does not equal Genuine. Example: Genuine BMW filter can be made by Mahle. The filter you buy at the dealership will be labeled as BMW it is very specific in terms of QC and specs. The OEM filter Majle makes might look the same, but will likely differ QC and materials slightly. If you want to save a couple of bucks, go online and buy a Mahle filter- they will make nearly the same exact filter that fits same car with minor or no differences. The Mahle filter will be OEM at the point. Original Equipment Manufacturer. There is a difference.
Great check list! Useful tips & tricks. I own a BMW 2-series, and have had expensive under hood rodent damage twice. BMW service tech recommended mint anti-rodent spray, available on Amazon. In the last 3 years since, no more chewing mice!
Cars are better equipped, safer, and last longer than ever before. Go back to 1975, your brand new car is lucky to survive 100k miles. The steel frame will start rusting only months out of the show room. But now, most cars can easily get past 100k miles. That’s why used cars are so expensive. You probably don’t remember, but old cars need something called “tune ups” just so they can actually run without misfiring. I don’t know where people get the idea that old cars are somehow objectively better. In 1970, average age of cars on road was 5.7 years old. Now, it’s more than 13 years old.
You can also check how long a factory warranty was in the 70s and 80s. Usually 1 year 10k miles. Just speaks to how confident the manufacturers were in their cars.
Very good points. I would add not using some silicone based cleaning agents on the inside that can damage some surfaces and materials, using good products to clean and protect the leather. Overall, I agree with everything.
So many great tips. I finally just bought my first “brand new” car, at age72! A 2024 Honda Civic because I know I can rely on Honda quality. Alas I have to part with my (bought used) 2003 Honda Accord, as the trans is fading after 268,000 miles. I still love Honda, but the quality of products everywhere today is just not the same it seems. There is just no comparison. Still, I hope to have this Honda outlive me, even if it isn’t quite as posh as those of days gone by. So glad I found these pointers.
I’m retired now but was in the auto industry for 42 years, these tips have a lot of value. For vehicles that aren’t used regularly a trickle/battery maintenance charger is very important, especially in cold climates. A fully charged battery can survive down to -40*f but a discharged or dead battery can freeze at 32*f destroying its internal structure. It will never come back. So get a charger made for colder climates. 😊
Imagine a collab between David and Mr. Car Care nut. The Toyota internet would explode.
REAL!!!
Ahmed and David - seriously, this would be the dream team for Toyota and Lexus owners - between them they could cover every aspect of each model, no problem.
@@CeeJay591 Toyota/Lexus should sponsor such video
@@MR3DDev No question - would be much better than any promotional material they produce
Thank you! In fact, AMD and I've talked about this a few times and we plan to do a collab in a month or so!
This young man has so much good information. In my opinion, the most important item he lists is checking your tire pressures, making sure you do this every first of the month. So important.
very few people check them ever
David's advice is detailed and practical, and can help car owners use their cars safely for a million miles without investing a lot of money.
Never knew about the jeans and air freshener. Thanks for the video.
I have had good results using the Mr Clean magic eraser on my light interior to remove Blue Jean color from the seats.
Put on your seatbelt, turn on your car, adjust settings if needed, put in to drive. Drive slowly till you get out to main road. When temp gauge start to move, your car is warmed up. When you get off main road coming home slow down you should be in the neighborhood with 30 mph speed limit anyway. You should be cold down when you arrive home.
good point about the OEM windshield wipers.
Another thing that might be good to know about the wipers is some of them can have just the rubber or silicone strip replaced rather than the whole blade. You can also get more life out of that rubber by cleaning them with a paper towel and some WD-40 or similar spray, as that stuff is excellent at lifting existing dirt off.
Good advice :). For mice 🐭 toned areas, mix peppermint and cinnamon essential oils, into an emulsion, and spray that around. No more mice. I drive trucks and heavy equipment in Saskatchewan, lots of mice looking for homes come fall…. That solution has completely solved nice issues.
This video should be recommended at time of purchase. Thanks for the tips.
3:38 I learnt that the hard way on my old kia rio. The water pressure at the car wash place was so strong it destroyed the clear coat on the top of the rearview mirrors and bumper bars. With my new car I invested in an electric pressure washer and cleaning chems to do at home, far safer, better clean and cheaper in the long run with 30% off sales.
Great video my Japanese friend, the last tip about the paint protection. I think I will invest in a good quality canopy.
I agree with most of your suggestions. However, one I disagree with is ( never use rains) I have used it for eons and it works great, as long as you maintain it. You mentioned wiper blades, you failed to mention using windshield washer fluid to periodically clean the blades. Along with that, new wiper blades need to be cleaned before their first use because the machining process leaves debris on the the blade.
Don't neglect changing the auto transmission oil, even though manufacturer claims it is a "sealed unit" , hence no dipstick. A transmission specialist will do this job at a fraction of the cost compared to most dealers. Also power steer fluid, if applicable and differential oil.
I wish all car owners took care of their stuff like this, it makes it so much easier to purchase an used car. The next owner will appreciate this.
This is a great video! I don't drive a lot so my oil change interval is twice a year. I do this in April/May then in October/November because I don't want to work outside in the heat or cold. Project Farm determined that Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is the best for the money. $30 for 5 quarts. Your engine will outlast the rest of the car. Other things are that I never turn the steering wheel unless I am moving. It is a tremendous strain and wear. Do this and your steering will feel tight at 100k miles. Brake moderately. As soon as you see the red light ahead, take your foot off the gas. I try to slow to the point where I don't have to stop all the way...to just keep rolling.
Thanks David Chao and great name too! I subscribed and liked!
Extra things I think are important. When I first start my 24 Pathfinder, the idle is higher the first few seconds. I would wait those seconds until putting into gear. That should prolong the engine and transmission. If you live in the north, having an engine heater or parking in the garage sure is nice on the engine and to get the heater going faster. If you live in the south, many parts of the car cook too hot. Park in the garage or shade whenever possible. I spend $1,30 to take the toll road over the road with 10 stoplights. I save gas, brakes, engine, transmission, and time.
I fill up an orange bucket from the shower until it gets warm before I shower. I don’t waste water. I use two wash cloths to wipe down my car. One towel for wiping above the door molding and the other for below the molding. Because the wash cloth below the molding has sand in it and will scratch the paint.
Thanks!
Thank you so much! I really appreciate it!
Your advice is valuable especially if you want to keep your car for a long time. Great video highly recommended.
Apparently turning off the start/stop doesn't prevent wear anymore, the cars that have it ship with more robust starters, and the engine is going to stay warm. The engineers have studied it and found that starting a warm engine won't cause wear the same way that starting it cold does, especially with the lower friction piston rings and thinner modern oils. Also it takes about 7 seconds worth of fuel at idle to start the car, so it's almost always going to save fuel.
For those who want to reduce the risk of fine scratching or marring when washing their car, don't rinse with water to start if you can help it, start with a soap or foam stage so the dirt will lift off and be encapsulated rather than being sandblasted against the paint by high pressure water.
More use = more wear
Everything else is marketing speak and flowery disingenuous justifications.
This system adds numerous completely unnecessary over-engineered new points of failure, not just at the starter, the increased costs are passed right to the customer for something with virtually no practical benefit.
@@NerdlySquared By that reasoning, if I am able to bend an aluminum bat that's got 1mm thick of aluminum by smashing it on something, I should be able to bend a 5mm thick one by applying the same force.
The benefit of a start/stop system are improved fuel economy, one of the largest costs for owners of SUVs and trucks. Not a big factor for compact sedan/hatch owners though. Studies have shown that startup burns the same amount of fuel as 7 seconds of idle, so if you are stopped at a light for say 20 seconds on average, you will save big over your years of ownership, and if the starter is built to be 5x as resilient and only costs $100 more, it's still a big net savings.
I disconnected the i-stop feature on my Mazda 6 2.5T to prevent cooking the oil in the turbo at every traffic light. There seems to be plenty of prematurely deceased batteries resulting from I-stop too, which are extra costly to replace.
@@thedon7530 Yeah I think turbos and batteries are probably the two exceptions to the rule of these start/stop systems being good. If you are driving at highway speed and then stop and immediately shut the car off without giving the turbo time to cool down, you will eventually prematurely wear out the turbo. If you have a manual shutoff for start/stop, I would definitely use it in a non-hybrid car if you're hitting a ton of stop signs, or if you were going fast and then had to come to a sudden stop for a train or something like that.
@@theredscourgeI don't think you even know whose channel you are watching. He actually is one of those engineers and yet he doesn't like that feature. Saving that you mentioning is not there because it is taxing on battery, so batteries ends up more frequent changes and those batteries not cheap. That stop and go feature also keeps frequently stranding people in the middle of intersection. We have multiple forums that are boiling about it. Those who turned that feature off, had zero problems with battery lasting 3 years vs those who use it have battery failure in 1-2 years.
To add on to what you said about the break-in., if you have a truck you should avoid towing or hauling heavy things while the engine is still breaking in. It stresses the drive train more
You are absolutely right about OEM wipers! I've had my Ford Fusion for 10 years and that's all I've used. However, OEM parts being better is not always the case. TIRES are the opposite... Always buy quality aftermarket. I've got item 26 for you to keep your car longer: don't crash it! 😊
Not crashing the car helps a lot from my experience
For bird poo, simply wet a paper towel, drain excess water, fold it, and place on the poo for 20-30 minutes, leave longer if super dry in hot, summer climate. 😊
I use a wet cotton ball on birds dropping. Leave it there for 15 to 20 minutes. Make sure to do this inside your garage and not under the sun.
just leave a bottle of turtle bug & tar remover and a couple microfibre towels in the car
David, Thank you 25 times . 🙌🙌
Thank you Mike 25 times back!
@@AutomotivePress 😁
No tip? We live in a tip society.
Would a ceramic coating be adviseable?
I have two wash cloths for the car. One for wiping above the door handle and one for below the door handle level filled with sand.
Excellent, David, as always. Thank you very much. I realize that I have many mistakes with cars that I have owned.
Regarding rodents, my sister's ES 350 had that very problem. Fortunately, they only chewed through two wires to the ignition coils and it was an easy fix to splice the wires back together. Our garage is indoors, so sadly that won't necessarily fix it. To get rid of the rodents, we removed the nest and then took off the beauty covers, which is what helped create the perfectly sized warm dark place. With the cover off, the engine bay was a lot more open and thus less hospitable. We also got battery powered ultra sonic repellents and the combination of these has helped keep them away.
Very useful, David. Thank you & God bless.
The ceramic coating technology. To be honest I'm still on the fence about going this particular route. I would have at ease going with a high grade natural canaby wax one wax per season as long as the water beads up and roll off I'm satisfied.
Very useful information David.
Another but of advice. Don't buy an expensive nice car unless you have a garage to park it in. Parking a car outside causes severe wear and tear.. For awhile, had to park one of my cars on the street cause one of my garages was being worked on. The car that sat outside was always covered in dirt, grime, tree sap, bird poop, leaves, literally was awful. Never park your car outside if you are OCD about keeping it clean like me
All good points. I think you may have forgot one - run the air conditioner every week or two during the winter for 5-10 minutes on days when the outside temp is above freezing.
Not necessary. When you're running the defroster it's actually using your AC system.
@@ericd1632 Compressor doesn't turn on below about 32 degrees.
I didn’t quite get what you were saying to put on top of a clearcoat. My car is two years old. I live in Florida. We get love bugs and sun fades. Cars. Which soap do I use to wash the car with and I didn’t quite get what you were using to wash the windows I hope I can keep this up. I’m 78 seems so much easier to go through the car wash but if it’s better for the car, I’ll try to do it myself, I’m loving my Hyundai 2022 with all the safety features because I constantly hit the curbs now I can see him them lol
Very intelligently presented. Thank you. Only thing i would add is to do oil change after the first 1000 miles to remove metal paricles in oil. I saw a lubricant specialist recommend that. Also, to drive gently using low revs until car reaches operating temperature.
All smart and common sense advice - thanks - especially for the early oil changes and the care of driving for the first 1,000 klms - I also advise changing oil after first 1,000 klms (as tiny micro metal bits break off when running in (I saw them when changing the oil myself after 1,000 klms). I also agree on OEM wipers! Yes! NEVER USE A CAR WASH ! And use sofy brushes when washing and rinse brushes regular in a separate bucket of clean water. PS NO engine cleaning on hybris cars - too much power running through some cables & wires!
Thank you David for the advice. 🎉
Great video David, just a couple of others that I’d like to let viewers know about. Never use glass cleaner on touch screens like windex as it will permanently damage the screen. Also touch up paint chips that have exposed bare metal as soon as possible, so the bare metal doesn’t start to corrode.
During the winter, i use the clear flood mode, to allow the engine to turn over but not start, oil pump allows oil to circulate, water pump doesnt stay in same position, as well as serpintine belt. As far as varmints under the hood, i remove the engine beauty cover, which i found 90 % of most nest are built.
I just bought a new car and changed the engine oil at 600 kilometres …. usually I fill the oil filter but it’s a Subbie with the filter mounted on top of the motor …. the clear flood start is an excellent way to prime any engine with oil before starting, thanks for your advice. 👍
@@J_S209 i just bought a crosstrek, ive got 200 miles on it, getting ready for its first also at 500 miles.
Engineer to engineer... Great points! All the things I practice and have learned over decades of vehicle ownership. 👍👍
I hate that auto stop/start system. One reason I changed to a hybrid!
As far as rodents, I've found the only thing that works is to leave the hood up. If you have a garage, this works. Since doing that, never had a nest or damage. I do the same with my lawn equipment over winter, removing the engine covers, under which the mice love to nest.
I also try to avoid dealer servicing at all costs! Expensive and poor quality work. I do my own maintenance. Oil filters do not need to be tightened so much that they require to be chiseled off after a dealer oil change! 😡
Great points thanks.
I have a question. I’ve heard conflicting things.
Can you apply a wax over paint that’s been ceramic coated?
What type of wax can be applied?
Thanks!
David, Re: your mention of tackling the question of automotive undercoating in a future video. What do you think of simply using a high quality clear coat for a new car on those areas that are subject to corrosion, such as all painted areas, nut & bolts, frame/chassis , etc. The alternatives are usually messy and they have a short life & would need to be reapplied.
It will be difficult to find a clear coat paint that will stay on and not get peeled from road debris... but if you can find a clearcoat that's thicker than normal ones it may be worth a try.
Great video, here are some of my notes:
22:00 Some aftermarket companies produce OEM parts for manufacturers. In that case, you are just paying a markup for a rebrand. I prefer to use OEM parts where tolerances are more unforgiving, like the serpentine belt which using aftermarket may squeal. Same with the timing belt tensioner, idler pulleys, etc. If it’s a radio, then it does not matter if it’s aftermarket IMO. Knowing when it is acceptable to use aftermarket is a good balance between cost and reliability because OEM parts add up FAST.
23:00 Buy a reputable trickle battery charger, ideally with overcharge protection. Sometimes, overcharging shows as corrosion on the positive terminal. At least on my car it did.
29:30 The average driver does not have the skills to out drive their bone stock car. Mod the driver first (autocross, drag, HPDE or other driver improvement education), then mod the car after.
Look for aftermarket suppliers that refer to their particular part as "OEQ". Original equipment quality. Factory part without the labeling.
OEM wiper blades. The man speaks pure truth. The cheap crap you get at auto parts stores doesn't even last a fraction of the time one can experience with OEM blades. I've gone 8-9 years on OEM's and ended up selling the car before I replaced the wipers because there was simply no need to do so. Threw auto parts store "premium" (I hate that word) blades on wife's car and the squeaking started immediately followed by a much needed replacement 2 years later.
I actually got more wear from cheap walmart wiper blades (three years now and under 4 dollars) vs. the oem bosch that I had to replace every year.
You should be replacing the wipers twice a year. Winter and Summer wipers are designed/engineered for the weather.
@@DavidCartwright-ih6dsI've never heard of that and don't know anybody who does that. I don't even think they sell "winter blades" or "summer blades" at all at least in Europe
One big thing just before the summer heat is replacing the cabin air filter-filter's, I guess this could also be part of keeping it clean and Nice ice cold A/C, On our Honda's these filters are easy to change by dropping the glovebox down, Many how to Videos here on RUclips of course for that and almost everything else. But a Great list so far Dave, You or the Car care nut also mentioned Not to use Ammonia based glass cleaner's on infotainment screens because it has destroyed some of them in the past, Anyways Thanks 🇺🇸👍.
DAVE, do you recommend placing a clear automotive paint FILM? Would you place it on any of your vehicles?
I always do my first oil change on or before 500 miles.
I live in the rust belt, how do you feel about oil based undercoating to stop rusting during winter road salt season? I've seen here and there that hybrids aren't supposed to get it done.
Thank you for the tips that you provided here in your video.
Try to avoid short trips I.e less than 2 miles, especially with today's DFI engines
I go at least 10 miles on warm days and 15+ miles on colder days. Smaller engines warm up faster than larger ones. Highway miles are preferable.
Incredibly informative and useful video of educational construct. David! Thank you so very much!
Glad it was helpful!
EXCELLENT video and subject area! Thank you 👍
Can you do a video on care for hybrids?
Fellow northshore person here, I thought I recognize that background!
Thanks for all the info on your channel.
For paint, I found out the hard way geyser water is really REALLY bad for your paint. Really really bad....
Fantastic advise and I really appreciate that you didn't say, "don't modify your car" in terms of more power etc.. but do your research and release more power can add more stress on the car.
Always very insightful! I will save this video to a playlist, so I can rewatch it occasionally, because I have 2 rather expensive vehicles that I want to preserve, the best I can.
Very helpful, as always. Thanks!😊
Thank you Lunamaria! Always thankful to see your comments! How's the GX doing? Any plans to change the tires/wheels/suspension?
@@AutomotivePress Yes, I need a slightly bigger tire. The 8.9 inch clearance is a bit too low on trails, and I get rubbing on familiar trails, where my 4Runner never did, and at lower speed. I think 9.5 inch will be perfect and thinking Lexus should offer the Overtrail models with a factory lift.
I was able to get a dealership option small lift and bigger off road tires for my previous 2019 4Runner TRD Offroad, so I wouldn't mind a similar dealer option for the GX. I can't modify it like I did the cheaper 4Runner, so a set of tires is all I need.
I always appreciate your advice and insight!😊
@@lunamaria1048 I'm getting a set of Falcon Wildpeak AT4W with wide 9" wheels soon. Can't wait to try out... you should definitely upgrade your set too! I might be getting a GX Overtrail in November as well, so lots of things to figure out. Where and how are we going to meet up to do some comparison and off road driving?
@@AutomotivePress I think you will get a GX 550 lol. Which one? I do like the factory Toyo Open Country A/TIII tires on the Overtrail, but just want something a bit more durable to punctures. Utah has very diverse trails, with familiar forest trails like in BC, as well as dry desert trails, rocky trails, and the Overtrail handles it all very well! It handled the drive from Utah, to Vancouver (and back) very well too (over 3000 kilometers!). I am very happy with it, so far!
How is the Land Cruiser compared to the 4Runner? I have 2 friends who traded their 4Runners for the LC and I hear good things!
My next trip to Vancouver (for the holidays) won't be a drive, so I'm not sure how we can compare lol.
@@lunamaria1048 Hey so sorry that I missed this message! I have a Nori Green GX 550 Overtrail coming in November but I do have some second thoughts about it... anyhow, I just changed out the tires on the LC for a 285/55/20 Falkins with a small +20 offset - have to show you how good this setup is! Let me known when you are coming back this way!
As always, the Engineering side point of view. What I love! Arigato gozaimasu!
I would like to disagree with the first point. You can use a rinseless solution such as ONR. You can presoak first you don't need to hose it down.
Great video! Didn't know I shouldn't use windex, luckily I have Bon Ami!
I had a question. For things like tire rotations, the internet is claiming that you can rotate them too much. Is that true?
Do you recommend PPF coating? Or always go with ceramic or graphene coating?
I'm not too crazy about PPFs because if not done correctly, they can permanently damage the paint if left for too many years.
Had some ppf coating my truck before. It helps with rock chips but they can still get through the coating. When it does get through the coating, it doesn't get to thr bare metal, so it was easy to touch up. I would get ppf on the headlights though. It makes it much more resistant to uv rays
What about heel wear on the floor mat. Should I get a heel mat protector?
What should you clean the display panel with the screens
I have noticed the wiper blade problem. Oem are so expensive its ridiculous, but i guess its necessary.
Love this! I’ve done most of these things with our two cars (not Toyotas, but VW’s).
Fantastic video!
Love the jeans warning!
Me too but also makes me mad. We literally just bought a rx350 and specifically asked about that. They sold us on newer leathers don’t do that but I think we got a story sold to us
@@jerryyoung6494 hot tip- send new jeans to the laundry before wearing them!
@@CJ-rk5eg we had a 2010 Nissan with light colored leather. My wife’s jeans had been washed but definitely left a stain
My jeans have been washed repeatedly for 10-20 years. I doubt they will stain!
But I still feel we were sold a story by the Lexus salesmen on improved new leather quality not doing this
I absolutely LOVE this video. I didn't know about the "jeans" thing. That is new info to me. I totally agree with everything on here. I see people scratch up their paint all the time. You really need to wash your car by yourself. I live in south Florida, so I don't agree with the PSI tire advice. I use an old tooth brush and "Super Clean" to spot clean very tough areas.
All good advise. Unfortunately don’t have a hose at home so gotta use the touchless car wash.
You need to hire a plumber to install one.
Most people don't have homes either
@@aaronsmegmasson7184 If you’re homeless you should be focused on buying a house not buying a nice car that needs washed. I shake my head when I see expensive cars at apartments. They should be driving old cars with faded paint.
@@user-tb7rn1il3q You sound old
@@user-tb7rn1il3qThis is a goofy post. It hasn't been economical to buy a home for years now.
People renting out homes have mortgages at rates 7-8x better than those available.
I'm going to punitively downvote you for boomer posting. Learn from this.
Great car maintenance tips for people like me who keeps cars for a long time.
When would you change transmission oil? the manual says 150k miles?
I would change the tranny oil at 50 K miles.
Excellent video! Everything point you make are words to live by if you intend to get the most life from your vehicle!
Awesome video. I will not only wash my car by hand and drive my old garaged sports car once a week. Does ANYONE know how to get rid of the brembo low speed brake squeak? Been told that this is a known issue.
I'm loosely laying aluminum foil on flat part of the engine bay after turning off the engine to keep rats away and that seems to work. Would my engine get damaged over time because laying foil takes longer for the engine to cool down?
Can somebody bring back the car of the 1990s and early 2000s that were well-built and lasted forever. Of course I'm talking about mostly imports. Why do we really need all of this stuff that just breaks things that are add ons
You mean you want me to actually use physical labor to scoot my seat forward and back? It's not enough that I had to pull on the handle and then pull the door open 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
You're dreaming if you think that will happen. As I type this they're plotting how to make you subscribe to car "ownership" where they milk you as much as possible without you owning anything
@@lexannaamnell6593LOL😂
I agree, I have a simple gas car from 1993, 31 years old and going strong. No turbo, no tons of electronics, no cheap super thin paint that basically washes off. Just simple 4 cylinder. Too bad these old cars rust, especially if driven in winter on salty roads, the salt is literally making them disintegrate. But engine wise, they lasted a lot longer than modern bs cars where engineers analyze every last bit and try to save every last cent to make the car as cheap as possible and don't care about longevity. I highly doubt that more than let's say 10% of cars made today will be driving around 31 years from now, like my car does
Basically money for the shit government
Thanks, David! Really great tips! Could I also ask about the Sports Mode that many new cars come with nowadays, with just a flick/push of the gear lever. What's your advice on driving with Sports Mode or should we stay off using that? Also about using manual override on automatic gearboxes. As you know, some gearboxes are not programmed well/optimised or that they shift too early etc. Would switching to manual override cause more damage to the engine? Thanks.
Neither of those would cause issues but they will use more gas since engine will rev up earlier and transmission shifting earlier as well. So a bit more wear and tear if you do those things...
This is exactly what I feel on my brand new Toyota highlander 2.4l turbo. My area is not flat but hilly. Putting it on Normal mode the car is lugging when going on an incline...so I have to force the transmission the down shift to get more power. Now, I am trying to put it in Sport Mode when going uphill. The ECO mode is even more pathetic. This new car has no better milage than the 2002 Sienna that I was replaced. I'm kind of disappointed,they should offer the V6 as an option. Can David share us the insight why every company is going this route?
David, my wife just purchased a 2025 Lexus Nx 350 hybrid .Salesman says use regular fuel owners manual says 91 octane or higher recommended 87 minimum. Whats your take? Will 87 shorten the engine life ? Great videos. Looking forward to seeing more, thanks.
The lexus uses higher octane to get more horsepower out of the turbocharger. It won't hurt to use 87, it'll just be a little less powerful when driving
O.k got that ,won’t use car wash. And will rinse first before a wash but what should I wash car with.how to reach top of my Hyundai 2022
Great selection of tips. I put a small 3 x 5 canvas sack with cat fur in my engine bay and seems to keep animals away. Coincidence? Not sure! Would love to hear your thoughts on anti corrosion methods for the under carriage. Picking up a 6th gen 4runner and want to ensure inside of tail gate and underside stay rust free!
If you are in a heavy salt area I would go and get the undercarriage treated at a local anti rust shop. They can coat the whole undercarriage. Here in Seattle we don’t get rust but if you are in the rust zone you’ll have plenty of folks that offer that service. I would get done every 5 years probably.
So where do I get a car wash? I live in an apartment with no hose or place to do it myself.
There are some water less options from Ammo NYC and Rubbit, but I look for a good hand wash place or take my supplies to a pay n’ spray to wash it myself with a rinseless cleaner like Absolute, ONR or DIY Detail.
thank you for sharing your wisdom with us David-san.
You stated that car manufacturers service recs are the bare minimum. I disagree…. if anything they’re recommending some services too frequently….
probably to generate income. As an example, Acura ( in the owners manual) calls for differential oil changes every 15K miles for my MDX. Necessary? What do you think?
Excellent video! Very good to know, thank you Dave!
About the air freshener, is it ok if it doesn't touch any plastics?
Great and easy to understand advice
Auto stop/start is good when sitting at lights for a long time -- it saves significant money over time. It is just bad if you use it over 300,000 times. So, if you know your route, just turn it off when the lights tend to turn green quickly.
Can you give advice for engaging 4low for time to time on our GX460. How often should I do it?
Once a month is a common recommendation.
What do you think about this? I have dodge chargers 2020 that 106,000 miles never changed the transmission fluid, it's these "sealed for life" ones. I already know this is BS. With these chargers to change the fluid you will have to change out the oil pane and filter because it's integrated. Can be pricey, but what I'm asking now is with this higher mileage would you just leave it or just change the oil pan and filter and just add new fluid without a flush? I've been trying to get good recommendations for a long time now, but everyone just keeps saying no fluid is for life, I'm past that now , I know this and I understand it is BS. What do you think? Oh I also have a 2023 V8 charger with about 4000 miles and I want to know for future reference for that vehicle also. Thanks
Thank you for sharing! Greetings from Brazil.
I don’t go to any car wash anymore…the ones with the brushes flaps the mirrors around, even when they are folded in.
I had wires on my AC chewed on my Toyota. I had no choice as to where to park it. A mechanic suggested I put several moth balls in a bag and hang it under the hood. Never had any more damage from rodents.
In other words: don't use modern cars, don't start modern cars, don't touch modern cars.
that is why I keep my old cars!
LoL, good one!
Don’t look at them either. Remember, that super thin clearcoat!
Yeah don't use modern cars, but if you leave it standing unused for too long, that is also bad... Just don't buy modern cars
Do you recommend ‘ claying’ a car?
Genuine parts are not OEM.
OEM parts are made by makers that supply genuine parts to a manufacturer. OEM parts can be great, but they are not Genuine. I work for an OEM manufacturer..: we make parts for different automakers to their specs. We also sell the nearly same parts we make for the automaker to places like Autozone (as OEM of course). OEM does not equal Genuine.
Example: Genuine BMW filter can be made by Mahle. The filter you buy at the dealership will be labeled as BMW it is very specific in terms of QC and specs. The OEM filter Majle makes might look the same, but will likely differ QC and materials slightly.
If you want to save a couple of bucks, go online and buy a Mahle filter- they will make nearly the same exact filter that fits same car with minor or no differences. The Mahle filter will be OEM at the point. Original Equipment Manufacturer. There is a difference.
Great check list! Useful tips & tricks. I own a BMW 2-series, and have had expensive under hood rodent damage twice. BMW service tech recommended mint anti-rodent spray, available on Amazon. In the last 3 years since, no more chewing mice!
Good advice, thanks for sharing this David!
Basically new cars are cheaply made, less durable and more disposable than ever before.
Which is a good thing
@@scat3926???? For dealerships and the companies maybe, not for actual car owners
@@scat3926explain how that is a good thing
Cars are better equipped, safer, and last longer than ever before. Go back to 1975, your brand new car is lucky to survive 100k miles. The steel frame will start rusting only months out of the show room. But now, most cars can easily get past 100k miles. That’s why used cars are so expensive. You probably don’t remember, but old cars need something called “tune ups” just so they can actually run without misfiring. I don’t know where people get the idea that old cars are somehow objectively better. In 1970, average age of cars on road was 5.7 years old. Now, it’s more than 13 years old.
You can also check how long a factory warranty was in the 70s and 80s. Usually 1 year 10k miles. Just speaks to how confident the manufacturers were in their cars.
Very good points. I would add not using some silicone based cleaning agents on the inside that can damage some surfaces and materials, using good products to clean and protect the leather. Overall, I agree with everything.
So many great tips. I finally just bought my first “brand new” car, at age72! A 2024 Honda Civic because I know I can rely on Honda quality. Alas I have to part with my (bought used) 2003 Honda Accord, as the trans is fading after 268,000 miles.
I still love Honda, but the quality of products everywhere today is just not the same it seems. There is just no comparison. Still, I hope to have this Honda outlive me, even if it isn’t quite as posh as those of days gone by.
So glad I found these pointers.
We have a couple of car wash places that do undersides, but they are touch-less too.