HX Extruder (HextrudORT Remix!)
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- Опубликовано: 17 сен 2021
- This is a remix of MirageC's lightweight HextrudORT. I modified the parts so that they print easier with a lot less support required. Uses the guts of a BMG extruder, and is driven by a Nema14 round pancake motor. It's very light and works great.
BOM:
BMG-type extruder or rebuild pack
Round Nema14 with 10-tooth gear attached
M3x25, M3x20, and (2) M3x16 socket head screws
(2) M3 hex nuts, and (1) M3 square nut.
Printed parts from Thingiverse link.
Download the files from Thingiverse:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:496...
MirageC - Creator of the HevORT and HextrudORT
/ miragec
Vez3D - Creator of the VzBot high-speed printer
/ vez3d
EVA carriage system:
main.eva-3d.page/ 
Наука
Fantastic job Mike! looks real good, solid and perhaps a little easier to print than mine... lol! :) Glad to see what you did with that little guy!
Thank you, Sir!! And extra thanks for the inspiration!
Liked for the guest appearance at 3:10!
You are the man. I just downloaded the Originals and was like, OMG how am I going to print this. You may have saved me. Thanks MirageC, I'm making your invention. Going to try to design a top rail mount system for a dragon hotend.
Great work man !!
Very nice. I’ve managed to print one of the originals very slow, 0.1mm layer height, and it turned out pretty good. Haven’t put it to use yet though. I may eventually have it SLS printed once I settle on a design… most likely Nova.
nice one.
Very interested in this extruder and the mini afterburner. Was looking into modding the orbiter and mini AB but if you do it for yours, Ill wait. Nice work
well, as it turns out, the mini afterburner is mechanically the same as this extruder (same nema 14 and BMG gears). so no need to remix it, unless you are looking for an alternate mounting method.
@@mikey631 was still looking to use the mini AB housing with a different extruder.
Nice :-)
Really good modification, nice job, really support not good for précision parts like extruder, btw you won't use m3 to hold the bmg bearing on the latch side, not good you have to use the smooth 3mm pin imp
Really nice mod. Btw, what's the filament you're using? Looks steelish grey, I like it.
that one is eSun PLA+ silver. Personally I like the Duramic silver a little better (less shiny than eSun). Also, PLA will work fine if your printer is NOT enclosed. If you are printing in an enclosure, be sure to print your parts with ABS, ASA, PETG, or Nylon.
This looks good. I will make a mod for my Ender3v2. I will modifiy petsfang base. Im using Bondtech BMG atm and i will use the parts from that. I guess gear ratio of 50:17 should be the same? Its what i use in Klipper atm.
You can see if someone is a profession. It is the cat that makes all the difference 🐱.
Does anyone know the modul of gears?
would you be willing to elabrate on how you mounted it on your hypercube? I have a boden Evolution that I want to go direct drive with and this is exactly what I was looking for..
I had converted the X carriage on the Hypercube to use a modified EVA carriage on a linear rails conversion. you can check that mod our here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4460475 I will upload the files for the HX extruder for that mod when I get home tonight.
1. What is the reason to separate this as a part ? Was it to be able to print it better ?
2. You should probably design an elongated hole on one side for the motor mount. So you can move the drive gear a little closer or further from/to the extruder wheel to compensate for tolerances and create prefect meshing between the two gears. What do you think ?
Being lighter than the Orbiter is already fantastic in itself, and all that with a really cheap and easy design.
Is there a reason why you didnt go with the Sherpa Mini by Annex? Should be lighter, is easily printable and the same parts can be used + it looks awesome.
I didn't run across the sherpa until after I started working on the hextrudort. I recently looked at the sherpa mini, and may still modify one for the EVA carriage, since it looks pretty easy to do with minimal modifications.
Whats your Vref set to for this motor? Mine gets really hot and PLA bends where its mounted (ill print PETG mount). Motor is 1A and i have set the Vref to 1,1V and still very hot.
the power handling depends on which version you have, but it sounds like you are setting current too high. In Klipper, I have my motor set to 0.300v, and it works fine there. you can go higher on some models (like .5 or so) but watch the heat.
Hey Mike, did you remix from the STP, F3D, F3Z, or STL file(s)?
I modified the .step (stp) files. I included the Step on my Thingiverse page for anyone who wants to make their own remix. Download that file if you want to make your own :)
Good stuff! I may have missed it but what is the total weight?
I don't have a super accurate scale, but it reads between 105 and 110 grams with the stepper motor attached
Why not use sacrificial bridging for the nut-hole which otherwise would need support?
There i s sacrificial bridging ,but there is additional area around the nut hole that needs bridging. That whole surface where the center of the nema motor sits is elevated off the build plate
Very cool 😎
Link to the polosi3d great kit please?
www.amazon.com/dp/B08F7MW72N?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
Hi Mike)
Maybe i have lost this in the video, but what is the total weight of your extruder?)
I only have an old postal scale. it rounds to the nearest 5 grams. WITH the stepper motor, it bounces between 105 and 110 grams
What Eva parts need printed for this to work on a rat rig?
check the link to the thingiverse page. you really only need the modified front face that I included. that will work with the standard EVA parts for the Dragon, V6, and Mosquito hotends
Is the gear reduction comperable to the orbiter? same stepper?
The gear reduction is very similar to the Orbiter. I don't remember what the exact rotation distance was with the orbiter (V1.5), but it was very close to what I ended up with this extruder.
This type of dual gear extruders has one big flaw. Either the gears mesh or the filament meshes with the gear but never both simultaneously. So you will always have either slop between the two gears or between the gear and the filament. What would ne needed is a decoupling between the right gear meshing amount and the right filament tension amout. This is even made harder because different filament has different hardness, think TPU vs PLA but even PETG vs PLA is already different. This problem was never solved with those dual gear type extruders.
One big drive gear should be way more consistent that dual dear drive, however the push forces would be a lot lower, question is do I really need all that push force ? Or ..How much push force do I really need ?
Yep! MihaiDesigns and MirageC have some pretty good videos regarding the inherent flaws of the dual gear bondtech-type extruders. Bondtech has released their new integrated drive gears, which should help the issue, but as you know, we are quite limited with our current options for small form-factor extruders. That said, I do have an old Titan extruder I used for my first hypercube build a few years ago that has a single drive gear. I'm Looking at it now, and I think there may be a way to design a shell for it that will accept a nema 14 motor. Could be a decent alternative to a dual drive unit?
And as far as pushing force, you really don't need a ton of pushing force, as long as you have a hotend that can melt the filament as fast as you want to extrude it. Being able to melt plastic quick enough is more important. This is why we are seeing extruders with longer melt zones and heater blocks. This allows for much faster printing speeds with the same type of small extruder/motor combo as this one!
@@mikey631 I think the Titan would be a really good option. It´s light, small part count, easy to clean/work with and works just fine. I mean the goal is to push filament in a well controlled manner with some force a Titan can do exactly that.
Absolutely, if your pushing forces get too hight it simply means your melt zone is not big enough for the throughput.
I absolutely agree with you.
Also let me say, the HX ExtrudORT is pretty good overall. I am thinking of printing my own version now (just with an idler instead of 2nd Gear), good job with the design.
If you are concerned with weight, try to cut down on bolts and other metal components. You can use counter sunk bolts for instance and make them 5mm shorter instead the regular zylinder head ones. replacing the 2nd gear with a smaller bearing and there might be a potential to replace some nuts with nylon nuts. Also cut out some material from the housing.
@@mikey631instead of the titan, just use this design but with 1 bondtech OEM idga gear and 1 bearing like mirage c showed in his video.
I want to know the weight of this extruder with motor
Hi, what extruder is that on 12:55 ? looks very nice.
That is the X carriage and extruder assembly from a Voron 0. check out Vorondesign.com for more info :)
@@mikey631 thanks I’ll check it out
So is this basically the same thing as the sherpa mini with a different housing?
it's very similar - Yes! Many of these small extruders are based on the BMG dual-gear setup with a nema 14 motor, but in slightly different packages.
Anyone else find Klipper's rotational distance annoying? I think the steps per mm is a better way to calculate and easier to undersrand.
it's not too bad once you understand it. think of it as mm per step instead of steps per mm. Basically, how far does the print head move for each rotation of the motor (or a given number of steps)? with a 20 tooth pulley, the print head will move 40mm for each rotation of a standard 1.8 degree motor, which has 200 steps for each rotation. So the number Klipper looks for, is how many mm does your printhead move in 200 steps. So if you have 0.9 degree steppers, than the distance moved is half, or 20mm for the same number of steps.
@@mikey631 That makes a lot of sense. If I changed the micro stepping the rotation distance would still be 40 with a 20 tooth pulley. The firmware takes that in to account?
The motor Pinion fits Poorly onto the White Main gear.
Rear mounting plate is Too thick to properly locate the Pinion gear.
which kit did you get to make the extruder? At 3:05, I explain that not every kit has the same size main gear, and this extruder only works with the kits that follow the same size as the BMG gear, which is 3mm thick.
Hi Mike. Very nice remix! Would you mind sharing the STEP files?
Step file will be up later today. Just needs a little cleanup first :-)
What motor you use? Where i can buy?
Look for an LDO nema 14 motor. It's the same one used on the orbiter and Sherpa mini extruders
Its dual gear?
Yes. it's essentially a repackaged BMG.
Why shying away from supports?
I can get better surface quality and dimensional accuracy if I can print things without supports.
Supports allow no real precision and have bad surfaces.
@@REDxFROG The proper way to use supports (in something like this) is to design them into the model itself as a separate part. For this, I would create a part that fit the infill area, but had a 0.4mm gap between it and the main part around the edges, and a 1layer gap between the top of the infill and the part. The infill part should be of a height that is evenly divided by layer height (though you can get some wiggle room by adjusting first layer height in the slicer).
Export both parts together, and they will be in proper alignment when imported into the slicer. You will get absolutely perfect layers over the infill.