At idle speed the alternator was not working.
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- Опубликовано: 8 янв 2014
- The alternator was replaced 3 times before the vehicle was diagnosed properly. 2006 Chevy Trailblazer 4.2L
Contact: geniuscarpros@gmail.com
Serving the Philadelphia/Delaware County PA area.
New battery, new alternator, hors of chasing down wires thinking it a short..... This fixed it!!! Thank y'all so much!
Excellent understanding of the problem. Considered all problems, eliminated each item and what was left fixed the problem. Very few shops understand alternator problems. Nice to find someone who thinks thing through. Job well done
I am a real mechanic in this town 🧑🏭 I just weld everything together so it never breaks apart again. Genius!
This video just solved a problem we’ve been having with our Toyota Sienna for like 5 years. This solution makes no sense to me as far as why it made the alternator not charge at idle but it just worked for me! Thanks so much!!
makes no sense for real.
An alternator does not work at abnormally low rpms. Fixing the rpm issue will restore the optimum working conditions for the alternator.
You did a fantastic job explaining that! Thank you for taking the time! God bless!
Thanks so much! I have been chasing this issue for quite awhile on our 2006 Toyota Tundra. You guys rock!!
I'm currently having the same problem with my 06 Tundra! I came out one morning to take the child to school and my battery was DEAD! Turns out the kid bumped the cargo light button with her backpack AND didn't close my door all the way! I replaced the battery, alternator and belt and I'm STILL having this voltage drop at idle!
You are a lifesaver when I watched this video it was like you were talking about my trailblazer I took the throttle body out cleaned it put it back pulled the pcm fuses for 20 mins and it's running like a champ ty so much
I had the same issue with the voltage regulator on my trailblazer! The volts would drop when at a stop and lights would dim. Had it tested at 2 auto parts store and the alternator tested fine till I would turn on the heater then it would fail the test as a bad voltage regulator. Replaced it and I did the same thing as this video showed. It was cold out so I cheated and used throttle body cleaner spray all around the butter fly inside and out. As soon as I started it up it was idling just as it should. a $2.00 fix thanks for this video!
Thanks for this video it saved me 400$ today. Local mechanics told me I needed a alternator. But I cleaned the throttle body and the surging stopped.
thank u for this video...a big help for me and my family...
I'm definitely going to try cleaning the TB on my 2002 Tahoe. My battery light will come on and alternator qont kick in till the engine warms up and I accelerate to around 3 or 4 thousand RPMs. Had my alternator checked and it's good. So I was going to start replacing wires except they all appeared to be ok. Started looking for anyone with a similar problem and found this video. Being a single mon I have to try to fix stuff on my own if possible . I'm so grateful for u tube videos!! My nephew suggested seafoam so 8 may not have to actually pull the throttle body out. Going to do this later today hope it works. Thank you!!
did it work?
@@ike_SYO1592solution plz
This is a very helpful video. Some times the mechanics don't further check the problems.
Thanks I can’t wait to try this tomorrow!
Great job. So many other mechanics just throw money at the problem.Well done!
Thats what I hate about working in this industry, people dont want to do the work and actually fix a problem...they just assume and throw parts on and be little the good techs that actually do the work...
That is the difference between throwing parts at the car and real troubleshooting. And that is why I have to fix my vehicles my self. I haven't found a real mechanic yet since I moved here in this town.
I am a real mechanic in this town 🧑🏭 I just weld everything together so it never breaks apart again. Genius!
he is a genius
learned something new today
This is a great vid man good mechanics🔥🙏
Wow just watching this,,,good stuff,,,clean the throttle body,,,,nice.
It makes sense. If idle speed is so low that the car barely runs alternator will not charge. So the fix is to correct whatever is causing it. It helps to have voltmeter gauge on the dash. If one is not there, one can buy the type that plugs into cigarette lighter. As long as you keep the RPMs in 13V range (or higher) you'll be able to drive.
Nice. I had a low charge condition which turned out to be positive battery terminal corrosion. Specifically, the stack of alternator and starter terminals on the terminal connector. They had substantial layers of corrosion between them. Wire brush and sandpaper cleaned it up and now reading 14.1 volts. It's a 2006 Matrix with 208k miles and it still runs like a Swiss watch (5k OCI, full synthetic).
This comment just saved me alit of trouble on MY 06 matrix thanks!
@@shadespellar684 Awesome. Turns out I did need a new alternator, as it was failing intermittently, so it seemed fixed but really was not. However, the terminals still needed to be cleaned anyway.
Thank you. Proof that if it's not something, it can be another thing. :-)
hehe anyone should subscribe after watching this genuine video. Great job mate. This video would help many people.
Thanks bro 💯💯
Excellent trouble shooting!! ..have been having the same problem myself ..alternator has been replaced once already ..will tell the shop about this theory ...this just might be the answer to the problem.
Great Video
Hi i recently just changed my battery around a year ago and my alternator around 3 months ago, however just got the problem that my alternator isnt charging at idle, anything below 900-1000 RPM the lights will turn on, however if i step on the gas and go over 1000 RPM the lights turn off. Would cleaning the throttle body be a solution to my problem? I drive a Toyota Soarer/ Lexus SC300 1995
I'm gonna try cleaning the throttle body on my car this weekend. The car was barely running the other day after I took it through a drive thru and started running properly again when I drove out after I got my food. Found out I have a situation like this where it's not charging at idle.
Have a Ford 6.0 Turbo Diesel gonna try at the 4th Alternator now
In idle. when i dont turn on the lights and other electrical appliances in the car the volts will be in 14 but when i turn the lights on it will drop to 13 to 12 volts .. is this also becuase of a dirty throttle plat?
I’ve been having this issue with my wife’s van. It started up with the engine reving up to the red zone before falling off and the van dying. This happens every time you started the van. I cleaned the throttle body at least without taking it off and then I started having issues the the battery light coming on while at idle. It goes off when I rev the engine. I’m about to look into the throttle body. Thank you.
great job , I wish I knew as much as you do
I hope u respond knowing this video is old but anyhow wen i connect the positive battery side and positive post on alternator on just idle i get .05-.07 i rev engine and it goes to .18-.25 so do i have a problem on positive side or no? Cause when checking voltage im getting 10.-9.vlts whether im checking just battery pos&neg or neg battery to pos on alt i kno its brand new battery that sat for long time in back seat never charged and after swapping out what i thought to be bad alternator and battery with junkyard alternator and this new battery i had but never installed those are my reading on my meter any thoughts oh and neg battery to alt housing at idle is .07 and stays .07 wen engine is revd please help
excellent; fault finding it's a slippery slope
Nice video. What are you doing now
Will a unplugged voltage regulator cause a battery to die
Hi! Could this also read a code for alternator but this be the issue? I just told my.mechanic to do the throttle body cleaning first to see if that was the problem.
Dam im on step 3 thanks man its 6 degrees outside step 1 aut,step2 bat,lol step 3 clean thottle which should be step 1 thanks
man i have a 2008 infiniti g35 i really need help this is a headache
i went thru 4 alternators (warranty free swap) in the matter of months (first 2 died because fluid from the power steering pump which is right on top of the alternator was leaking down into the alternator and killed it eventually) i fixed the leaking problem
im on the 3rd alternator and i was driving my car kind of hard on the highway and as i was getting off a exit ive noticed my battery light had came on and i have a device that tells me how much Volts my car is running it went from 13.8-14.5 to 10.9-12.1 - I replaced that alternator and the car was running fine for awhile
so now im on the 4th alternator i am starting to think this cannot be the Alternator because its a completely new one and its only lasting weeks
the 4th alternator i am on the highway today and same thing happened to me (battery light came on voltage dropped) But this time the battery light only came on under 3000rpms /idle when i drive the car around 5000-7000 rpm the light goes away. Luckily i work at a pepboys so i can put my car on the lift and had my friend sit in driver seat i repeatedly tapped the alternator and he told me while i tap the alternator the battery light turns off and my voltage goes up to around 14 Volts, when i stop tapping the alternator the light comes back on and volts drop back down.
After tapping it for awhile battery light stayed off for a little bit.
Then im driving the car home and now everytime i hit a bump or the rpms are under 3000rpms /idle the battery light comes back on and the volts slowly drop down
i checked the fuse and the connections and the belt and they were all good i dont even know anymore because even if i install a new alternator it will do the same thing
Lemme point out that the brand is Duralast from Autozone
Why is the alternator charging only when the headlights are on?
I am not sure if this is my battery or Alternator. Battery reads at 12.62 not started. When cranking it it hits at 10.49 then up to 13.80. I have not caught this on video yet but I assume Alternator is going bad but took it to Oreilly's it said it passed. I told them what is going on. I showed an image of the battery gauge going to the right about 3/4 the way. This is a 2006 Ford F150. While at idle the cluster of everything would move to the left & music goes off to NOT the truck just the cluster going weird but all I had to do is press the gas pedal & back to normal but I would see the battery gauge go the right about 3/4 then back to middle just weird. The codes I get are Battery Voltage too high. Oh, I do have a new Throttle body. But this does comes & goes. Alternator or Throttle body just suddenly went bad?
This happens to my expedition after driven and turn off the engine the idle is low and engine dies so you have to gas it up while putting one foot on the accelarrator to keep it running and it is fine as soon as it drives until you turn off the engine again.Let it cool off and it is normal again never it dies on a stop as long as it is in Drive mode so I just ignored it.
P
It could be a worn out brush in the alternator. It can be replaced at home for a few dollars.
I just replaced my civic alternator battery light coming on again albattery was popping before
Ah yes... The scientific method. Love it!
my bmw 120d e87 2004, starts moving at 12v and after 2-10 minutes, the voltage goes instantly 16,3 and after that stays at 14,3v which is perfect.what do you think is the cause?please?
My 2002 Tahoe is doing the same thing. It makes sense to ke to clean the throttle plates as my alternator is good. Theres some stuff called seafoam that my nephew suggested because you dont actually have to pull the throttle body out to clean it. You may want to try it I definitely am. Good luck !!
I just had the same problem on my car! I made a video on what I did
03:50 Why would ECU comand alternator not to charge under load (you said ECU thinks somebody is stepping on the pedal)?
it the more of the carbon build up, or debri, which gives the computer a false reading of where the closed position of the throttle valve, because the position is not accurate, the computer doesn't control the idle speed correctly, sometimes resulting in a lower speed at idle
On my 12 Scion tc i have a similar situation. Although i see no flickering lights or any other signs of electrical issues.
When stopped in Drive or Reverse and foot on break the car idles roughly at about 600.. when coming to a abrupt stop it goes down to 500 but never dies and goes back up to 600. Also having the AC on help idling at 700-800.
Today i noticed when stopped and the car is idling low it goes even lower when i turn the fans on all the way or roll both windows up and down. So i took it to autozone and they did 5 tests on the alternator, 3 out of those 5 tests failed so im assuming alternator is bad. The battery is new at 100% charge. Also cleaned the TB but never actually took it off the car just cleaned the inside as far as i could reach. Also replaced the MAF sensor and air filter.
Any advice?
Yes I would clean the throttle body very thoroughly first... Toyota's are known for low idle and stumble if carbon build up is on throttle and you replace the battery or the battery goes dead... Also you may need a proper scan tool to reset idle on some vehicles
Also make sure all hoses and intake is tight and there is no vacuum leaks after the MAF sensor are present
I’ll try that, taking off the TB and cleaning it throughly. Thank you!!!
@aydin9399 did you ever find a solution? I have the same exact thing happening to my car all the symptoms you described.
@@user-kx2ve6kt2g yes.. I found out that it’s perfectly normal. I still have the car and it’s never shut off on me. Is just hot the car runs.
But I did buy a pedal commander and omg.. different car!! Best thing and worth every penny. Look into that!
The part where he connects jumper cables to - what? in order to clear the computer?
So I took off my belt figured that was the problem. Now my car won’t starts 🤬
Hella smart
does this work on a 2008 impala....because i am going through the same problem right now
Kevin McMillan , hey what problem are you having exactly, I will see if I can lead you you in the right direction
@@geniuscarpros540 safe to say he figured it out haha
I just done the big 3 upgrade and after 2 days my battery and brake light came on. The alternator isn't charging my battery. We put zero ga wire over the factory wire and immediately started having problems. I'm at a loss
havel twink you sure you did the “big 3” ? And not a “fail big 3” ? Lol
At idle speed i get battery sign but when i accelerate once that sign disappears can any1 help me with solutions?
hey
Didnt you mean you put the jumper cables on the battery hook up cables and not the battery itself huh ?
Take the battery cables off the battery, and hold them together for a few minutes... do not do this if your vehicle has two batteries though
Are you still in business, I'm bringing you my vehicle and everyone I know I'm sending them to you all.
Alternator current capacity is less at idle speed below 1000 rpm. current is not enough to charge the battery if any additional electrical blower or radiator fan is running. At idle speed if Air conditon switched on its blower and electrical clutch starts draining of battery. To overcome this problem one vacuum operated actuator is provided in carburator of old cars. When AC switched on, ECU signal goes to actuator which raise the accelerator to increase engine rpm further. Engine running on idle speed with ac on condition, battery charging voltage shall be above 13.5 volt. Higher the engine rpm higher the current capacity as per characteristic of alternator. I had also once changed the battery after mechanic fails to solve the problem. Actual problem solved after the setting screw on actuator.
Throttle what? You mumble.
This is the most boring video I've ever seen.OMG, I had to stop watching halfway through.