I appreciate your videos especially the one you did on replacing the inlet pipes on the heater core. I took my granddaughters '95 maxima to my mechanic and he didn't know that they could be replaced. I showed him you video on that along with the part number you showed and he said you did a good job on that vid. She had trouble with it running hot and smoking and her stupid dad connected the two hoses together and let her go. I had my guy replace them just last week along with some other things. Thanks for the help.
+Manila Kid It's not required, just makes it a lot easier (especially if your calipers are seized up). You could use the cube, costs a couple bucks and designed to do several different types of rear calipers (I've got another video showing it's use somewhere on here), or you could even use pliers if the pistons move freely enough.
After you get the new pads on should you pump them up before starting the engine or will it matter? I have been told to pump before starting because if you start it first the pump will stir up bubbles in the brake line and then the brakes will have to be bled. Is that true?
+Jim Pinckard It doesn't matter, there is no pump to affect the brake lines/fluid. It's a purely mechanical/hydraulic system, there's just the pedal/master/lines/calipers.
Quick question just replaced the rear rotor and pads on my 1995 nissan maxima on the LR but it was making aloud clunking noise, so I limped it to work and back today. When I got home took the piston and caliber off an the rotor was cut in half where the circle meets the studs into a perfect circle what could this be from?? Please help... Making same noise again tonight on same one, we even bought new caliper :/
boredmder okay I got a new rotor on and new calipers in the rear but still grinding not nearly as bad like a little squeek and my brake pedal feels not very hard
Did you make sure to line the nub on the pads up with the slot on the caliper piston? If they're not lined up, you'll be trying to put the full force of the caliper piston through just that little nub, and you'll get poor braking performance and a poor pedal feel. Also, did you bleed the system well? Any kind of air in the lines will also lead to a poor pedal feel.
boredmder that may be the case as I can only feel the front brakes and none of the rears so is it possible that I didn't put it in the slot correctly on both sides?
Yep, it's easier to put it together incorrectly than it is correctly. Just rotate the caliper pistons until the two of the slots are parallel with the mounting bolts, and two point up and down, I show that a bit in the video I believe. One of them has to line up with where the nubs are on the pads.
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I know how to do my own shit, but you my friend have a great way of teaching the way to do it right with patience, good job,
Just used this to do mines, saved a ton of money watching this. Thank you sir.
I appreciate your videos especially the one you did on replacing the inlet pipes on the heater core. I took my granddaughters '95 maxima to my mechanic and he didn't know that they could be replaced. I showed him you video on that along with the part number you showed and he said you did a good job on that vid. She had trouble with it running hot and smoking and her stupid dad connected the two hoses together and let her go. I had my guy replace them just last week along with some other things. Thanks for the help.
Thank you, I really thought this was excellent. Very helpful!
Great video! thanks for the upload.
fyi this is essentially the same for 3rd gen, it's just that the assembly is on the front side of the rotor rather than the back
Agreed Twisted, nice work...
Dido. Nice job. Thanks much.
Great video, thanks!
Thsnks man! It really helped me
Save my ass last week , stupid thing wouldn't turn back in and watch this over and over again and it turned back in with piston tool
Is this pretty much the same setup for a 2001 Infiniti i30?
+Manila Kid Yep, should be identical.
+boredmder Also, is that special tool for the caliper needed?
+Manila Kid It's not required, just makes it a lot easier (especially if your calipers are seized up). You could use the cube, costs a couple bucks and designed to do several different types of rear calipers (I've got another video showing it's use somewhere on here), or you could even use pliers if the pistons move freely enough.
+boredmder Thanks for your input. I was going to just use pliers.
good video
After you get the new pads on should you pump them up before starting the engine or will it matter? I have been told to pump before starting because if you start it first the pump will stir up bubbles in the brake line and then the brakes will have to be bled. Is that true?
+Jim Pinckard It doesn't matter, there is no pump to affect the brake lines/fluid. It's a purely mechanical/hydraulic system, there's just the pedal/master/lines/calipers.
If your leaking from the rear caliper, would it be a seized up caliper or is it the washers of the banjo bolt that are worn out?
It could be from the hose, banjo bolt, or out from around the piston (meaning a failed internal seal).
thank you for this.. i was about to hit the whole thing with a hammer..
Quick question just replaced the rear rotor and pads on my 1995 nissan maxima on the LR but it was making aloud clunking noise, so I limped it to work and back today. When I got home took the piston and caliber off an the rotor was cut in half where the circle meets the studs into a perfect circle what could this be from?? Please help... Making same noise again tonight on same one, we even bought new caliper :/
Usually that's from a brake pad shim sticking out and rubbing into the rotor hat.
boredmder okay I got a new rotor on and new calipers in the rear but still grinding not nearly as bad like a little squeek and my brake pedal feels not very hard
Did you make sure to line the nub on the pads up with the slot on the caliper piston? If they're not lined up, you'll be trying to put the full force of the caliper piston through just that little nub, and you'll get poor braking performance and a poor pedal feel.
Also, did you bleed the system well? Any kind of air in the lines will also lead to a poor pedal feel.
boredmder that may be the case as I can only feel the front brakes and none of the rears so is it possible that I didn't put it in the slot correctly on both sides?
Yep, it's easier to put it together incorrectly than it is correctly. Just rotate the caliper pistons until the two of the slots are parallel with the mounting bolts, and two point up and down, I show that a bit in the video I believe. One of them has to line up with where the nubs are on the pads.