It would be helpful to know that the bent nose pliers are the kind called “ external retaining clip” pliers or “snap ring “ pliers. When you squeeze the handle, the tips, which have little knobs that fit in the holes on the retaining clip, spread apart, so the clip can be slid over the shaft. See Knipex 6-3/4 inch 90 degree external snap-ring pliers .
May need to fabricate a new S-Pipe unsure if Yard Butler ships parts to Canada - I like this reel lasted me ~ 8 years plus before needing a new S pipe. Most of the comments are spot on - pain in the ass getting the corroded s-pipe out, hammer. block of wood then a screw driver and hammer to chip out the derlin bushings. Used a plumbers pipe brush to clean out most of the rust, shot of penetrating oil then run the brush through again. Now I just hope I can get a part. Otherwise I'll have to figure out how to fabricate one.
The o rings on the new s pipe were impossible to force into the pipe due to the thickness. Tried to substitute one size lower but leaked worse than the corroded pipe. the model I have is impossible to get your hands in because it is not of the open type as shown. no wiggle room to push the pipe into the sleeve makes it a real nightmare. Have to regroup and try again! I wish the video showed the pitfalls of older corroded and difficult situations!
Needed to stop for the day.. look alot to get it apart and now just as hard to feed to pipes together again... tried soap and wd40... will have to try again later
A lot more force will be required to remove a corroded S-pipe than shown. The inlet pipe should be cleaned out with fine sandpaper. Otherwise the rough spots on the corroded inlet pipe will degrade the O-rings in the S-pipe further reducing service life.
It would be a lot more informative if you showed us an older, corroded unit that actually NEEDS an s-pipe replacement rather than replacing the pipe on a NEW unit that doesn’t need the pipe replaced! What about all the built up corrosion that causes you to replace the pipe in the first place? Can you instruct your customers how to deal with THAT? Do we need to sand down the corrosion on the inlet pipe so that it doesn’t quickly grind down those shiny new o-rings? Let’s see how much effort is REALLY required to remove the s-pipe after it’s trapped in all that corrosion. We’d also love to see whether it can be as easily replaced by a girl with such beautiful nails compared to how effortlessly she replaced it on a new unit while preserving those nails. Something fishy going on here. This video only validates all those 1-star ratings over at Amazon.
It would be helpful to know that the bent nose pliers are the kind called “ external retaining clip” pliers or “snap ring “ pliers. When you squeeze the handle, the tips, which have little knobs that fit in the holes on the retaining clip, spread apart, so the clip can be slid over the shaft. See Knipex 6-3/4 inch 90 degree external snap-ring pliers .
May need to fabricate a new S-Pipe unsure if Yard Butler ships parts to Canada - I like this reel lasted me ~ 8 years plus before needing a new S pipe.
Most of the comments are spot on - pain in the ass getting the corroded s-pipe out, hammer. block of wood then a screw driver and hammer to chip out the derlin bushings. Used a plumbers pipe brush to clean out most of the rust, shot of penetrating oil then run the brush through again. Now I just hope I can get a part. Otherwise I'll have to figure out how to fabricate one.
The o rings on the new s pipe were impossible to force into the pipe due to the thickness. Tried to substitute one size lower but leaked worse than the corroded pipe. the model I have is impossible to get your hands in because it is not of the open type as shown. no wiggle room to push the pipe into the sleeve makes it a real nightmare. Have to regroup and try again! I wish the video showed the pitfalls of older corroded and difficult situations!
Needed to stop for the day.. look alot to get it apart and now just as hard to feed to pipes together again... tried soap and wd40... will have to try again later
Where do they sell S pipe in Canada for Yard Butler. It seems to be very hard to find and EBay Amazon do not show them as available.
A lot more force will be required to remove a corroded S-pipe than shown.
The inlet pipe should be cleaned out with fine sandpaper. Otherwise the rough spots
on the corroded inlet pipe will degrade the O-rings in the S-pipe further reducing service
life.
As other commenter have stated. I have a siezed s-pipe. Any tips for removal?
It would be a lot more informative if you showed us an older, corroded unit that actually NEEDS an s-pipe replacement rather than replacing the pipe on a NEW unit that doesn’t need the pipe replaced!
What about all the built up corrosion that causes you to replace the pipe in the first place? Can you instruct your customers how to deal with THAT? Do we need to sand down the corrosion on the inlet pipe so that it doesn’t quickly grind down those shiny new o-rings? Let’s see how much effort is REALLY required to remove the s-pipe after it’s trapped in all that corrosion.
We’d also love to see whether it can be as easily replaced by a girl with such beautiful nails compared to how effortlessly she replaced it on a new unit while preserving those nails.
Something fishy going on here. This video only validates all those 1-star ratings over at Amazon.
I want. What is price?
$20
Who the hell has bent nose pliers laying around? What else can I use???
Snap ring pliers
After about 3 weeks I was able to replace it. And it still leaks with the New S-Pipe!😡
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