You can do similar, but not with "grime", use a ball pein hammer onto either paper or card, ball for the holes, flat for the edges. Doesn't just mark the outline, it actually cuts the paper/card to make an accurate template. "Back in the day" it's how we made gaskets.
Made my first template/gasket at school in the workshop lesson, idly tapping a bit of paper on the vice while our tech teacher rattled on about Aluminium production. 1978, it was a self taught lesson i still use today.
@@AutoExpertJC Just "delete" the dirty hands.. locate the the Pad profiler.. press lightly at each corner with a clean finger/thumb & repeat at each mount hole.. bingo done.. no hand washing needed.. 50yrs in the workshop.. lovin' your vids, 👍👌 from NZ .. P.S. retirement affords the time to watch them now & share in your satire
A very good source of shims for the lathe is an old transformer that you might be scraping. The ones in microwave ovens are perfect because the top part of the transformer’s laminates forms and E, so you run the grinder lightly down the welded edge and the E comes away from the base. The base is a whole pack of laminates, perfectly flat with no burred edges and glued together ready for you to divide them up into shim packs. I have mine shim packs numbered 1 - 10 the numbers being the number of shims in a stack, then the lathe tools that need packing have the number of shims I need to get it centred. Sounds long winded but it takes about 5 minutes and is very easy for a handy man.
Back in the mid 80's, I did my locksmith trade course at Ultimo. Back then it was basically a toolmakers course with a few other things thrown in. Man some of those old tech teachers were so clever when it came to solving problems. I had so much respect for them. And now just like you, Every now and then I get to pass on a golden ticket
That is an old mechanics trick. And it works well. Along the same lines of making your own gaskets with a ball pein hammer. Have done both on many occasions. Even quicker for jobs like the one you just did. I use a round pencil stub. Spin round in hole. Perfect circle marked. Punch centre. Drill.
taking a simple Rubbing like this reminds me of the days i did stained glass restos, the rubbing was the only guide to rebuilding them after they were disassembled, worked a charm, cheers Dude
For a transfer punch I just have a 1/2 inch square bar with a hole drilled in it to take a concrete nail. The 1/2 inch square bar just slips into the back of any size 1/2 inch socket and then you can center pop boltheads or holes.
I did this yesterday to mount a Gorilla electric hoist to my rooftop tent removal rack. Picked this up back in the late 70's when I was an apprentice. You can also make gaskets by taping around the outline with a hammer and using the ball end for the holes. Love your magnetic tapping jig.
Used a similar trick for making paper gaskets for my old BSA 250 back in the day except old engine oil was handier than rusty metal, and yes, the bike still dribbled oil - just not as much.
I cast bullets. I use spray mould release: it’s a gray color. Wipes off easy. Just set that piece down, spray release where you need to see the fit up, and it will give you a perfect picture.
That's a good one, John. I once used a clear paper sheet protector to trace outlines of odd-shaped drywall holes to cut filler pieces. Just use a marker to write on the sheet protector.
Nice tip I have used something similar before . That mag tap wrench is awesome I am going to suggest one of those for work because we do a lot of tapping holes .
Only recently subscribed, mainly because of your comments on those that shall not be named vehicles . But when you give insight into your engineering knowledge , I’m totally fascinated . I won’t disgrace myself by adding an emoji , so you will just have to imagine the smile on my face .
Or... You could locate the tool where it will eventually belong, mark each hole with a stubby Sharpie pen, center-punch, drill, tap and you're done. The paper technique is nice when the mounting location isn't on a flat, horizontal plane.
I'd just have to say, we did similar impressions in primary school... usually used chalk or charcoal, pencils sometimes. And next we'll be getting finger painting tips to create amazing masterpieces.
Mate! Been doing that for forty five years only I was taught to do it with oil on the parts to make transfers…serial box transfers to make gaskets were the go…cheers mate.
5:17 ... I noticed! Only after you mentioned it and I rewound the video a few times to check 😊 Still... That's a fantastically simple, easy, and elegant (perhaps not elegant to the uneducated eyes) method to transfer the necessary dimensions without measuring a damned thing! Brilliant!
... and hot damn are those magnetic doobreies awesome! I remember when the first magnetic surfaces you could turn on or off came out because my dad got one! I thought I still had it, but I haven't been able to find it 😢
Beautiful tip! I have to reseat an Irwin No. 6 vice on my workbench (10 mm thicksteel), and your method here will ensure it won't FLICK up again. Thanks, John!
I am a boiler maker, do this alot for other things as well, grease on your hands is useful for a lot of things, swarf if 1 hole, paper with a pencil, I have used spray paint, spit, mud, welding rod with a bend, or just cut a nikko pen off at the nib
Stencil was my second guess and why I always have yellow and black crayons in my tool box😎👍🏻 First guess was to run the old Tipp-Ex brush down your transfer punch collar/sleeve and then centre punch the marks👍🏻 Top vid JC. Appreciated as always Sir😎👍🏻
Ha! I ran into that issue years ago... I solved my dilemma by modifying another transfer punch set, and cutting them in half. Not the most economical solution, but I had several sets laying around in my shop. Cheers!
I discovered that years ago for hanging pictures and shelving. I also line the paper with two of the edges. Put a mounting screw in one hole, than use a level to get the second hole parallel to the ground.
One other pearl of fabrication wisdom in line of your PAD/ CAD pattern put some studs in the cordless drill lathe and then using a grinder - air or cordless make points on the bolts (studs) that act as centres - you can then screw those into any threaded hole and then use the points to transfer those bolt hole centres to your paper or cardboard pattern and there you have it. equally the dirty finger marking of the paper paten over the surface . (used to make engine mounting plates for Hot rods and car or bike engine swaps)
That's pretty much how I make paper gaskets..... and have done for many years..... surprised people didn't know this. I always prick the hole locations through the paper before turning over to punch the marks... It's easier to centre them that way.
A simple piece of paper can have a lot of different uses. I have some spools of filament for my 3D printer that are smaller than the standard 1KG size, and these smaller spools don't work properly in the AMS of my Bambu printer. So, I printed some spacer rings to increase the diameter of the spools, but on a couple of the spools they're a slightly loose fit. My solution: Use a piece of paper to fill the gap.
Hi John, great to see your've discovered paper aided design.And thanks for showing the current generation, how it always been done before the ruler was invented. l won't brag ,but most of us bushees' have been doing this for most of our penny pinching lives, with old corn flakes packets (as some of your other correspondence writers have commented) and copper sheet, when making head gaskets for side valve briggs and stratton motors running gensets or water pumps, miles from anywhere, just add a smear of grease and tighten, torque till grease oozes out and it'll run for another 10 years,and don't forget the bailing wire to hold it onto the frame as those hi tension bolts have usually rattled loose .
I fear even the good manufacturers will refrain from spending this kind of money... At least in the higher end products you will get a dimensional drawing, which is nice for a 50k industrial component.
@@kampar82 What I was referring to here is just the cost of printing on paper. There are also very expensive steel templates for large equipment foundations, where they are needed to match up anchor bolts set in concrete.
@@Andriastravels In my previous position a supplier skipped dry assembling floodgates. The bolting holes did not match, but at least they got some experience transporting back and forth the 10 ton pieces. Now I'm involved with industrial equipment, I tried being sarcastic because sometimes any idiotic "saving" can be made. I have had to make spool pieces for pipelines, more expensive templates with a pressure rating.
@@kampar82 It happens - once we designed and tried to install a mirror image of a PVC reactor unit - on a lump sum contract, no less. I like sarcasm, but in comments sometimes it is difficult to tell. I used to get some heat at work with sarcasm sometimes, as everybody should smile and say everything's great.
I was blown away by this method. But that was back in shop class, in the early 1970s. I was a snot nose 13yo, and this was shown to me by the old (probably only in his late 40s, then) shop teacher.
Interesting. I would use center transfer plugs. (button pins). They are pins with a shoulder and a point in the center. One places them in the bottom of the base, sets the base down and taps on the base to set the marks. Amazon calls them "Dowel pin centers". Cool paper trick! Cheers.
I've seen a similar trick when you want to mount something like a powerboard that has a couple of screw holes in the back of it. A bit of tape over the holes, get a texta to mark the holes and their shape on the tape, peel it off and stick it to whatever you want to put the mounting screws into. Simples.
Also try masking tape! Layer it up so it's a few layers thick. Poke through the holes, trim the edge with a knife, make any necessary markings /orientations. Peel it off and transfer it to whatever you need. Learned this one in a panel beating vid.
I learned a similar technique , as a Grade 1 artificer in the Australian Navy , 40 plus years ago . Naval Equipment CAN be older than your Grandfather...... with technical paperwork misplaced Decades ago . Yep this really simple technique works like a CHARM .
Another way is the "photocopier" trick - if you have one, of course. Just put the device on the copier (try to not break or scratch the glass, works well for lighter things like power boards), make the copy, trim if needed. Make sure the copy is actually a 100% image, nit 99% or 101%.
Ooowoo, fabulous tip. I work wood, often hard wood. I've adapted many metal working tools to my trade (shopfitter) as woodwork can sometimes be a bit vague on accuracy.
I fell into the same answer once before. I used a piece of paper and a pencil to mark off the holes in much the same way, and noticed that all the graphite was getting all over the place making marks in places that were just as handy. It’s a good solution which I fell into quite by accident as well! Good idea to share it, I appreciate your videos - it would be nice if I could share them with my wife once in a while, the language gets too severe in my opinion, but I can see past it. I appreciate your mastery of the language and the thought you put into your videos, but might I recommend it is more clever to use proper language then to throw the F bomb and other nonessential words into an otherwise well thought out video,makes u look lazy. I recommend reserving those words for conditions that truly deserve accentuation. The 10 times in my life I’ve thrown out the f bomb in conversation, everyone took notice because it had meaning.
That is a good tip, especially for old equipment but usually in the case of new equipment you would hope it comes with a drawing either in the box or on the website you bought it from.
I did something similar the other day. I just got a new Sigmund welding table. It’s a great table, if you can figure out how to get the legs on. They attach on a ledge beneath the surface where you can’t see the screw holes. The leg attaches with two hardened 16mm bolts. But, first some reason, there are 6 holes down there, arraigned in a circle, as I found out, which you can’t see, but can feel from the bottom. The problem is they don’t tell you which holes to use. If you get one screw in, the other can’t find a hole most of the time. If you can, the leg isn’t straight and square, but at some weird angle. So I finally, after playing around with it for some time, took a piece of paper oriented it with the corner matching a table corner on the ledge, and punched then holes through the paper with my finger. Then I was able to put the paper on the leg and move it around until I found the proper holes. I don’t understand why companies do that. At least provide a piece of paper showing which holes to use.
Punching holes with paper is great, however I would use some adhesive tape either under the paper[doubled over on itself to be sticky both sides] or on top on the edges, with my luck the paper would creep a bit and muck up my accuracy without it.
This is a neat trick. BUT, for decades I just used a short pencil to mark the location of the holes then carefully used a center punch by eye to get the center of the hole. I can't tell you how much I would have given to have the magnetic drill and especially the magnetic tapping gizmo.
Another way of positioning holes is to place the item where you want it. Put some grease on the end of a bolt and put the bolt into the holes leaving a round smear of grease on the base. Punch the middle of the grease rounds then proceed as normal. No paper, no dirty hands and done quicker
That trick works great for those annoying power strips that have slotted screw holes on the back. Take a piece of paper and do the exact same thing and then just put where you want to mount it.
I’ve been doing this for over 40 years. A quicker method in your case will be to use graphite grease on the base around the holes and press the base onto the bench.
Wouldn't it be easier to just put that thing on the paper, draw around the base and then take that same pencil or pen and just make a scribble circle inside each hole? If the pencil is to long to fit under, just break it off and voila. It'll be more precise than a smeared on imprint. Even better. If you want to center that hole, just put the pencil inside a socket bit, which fits into the hole. It'll center the pen. Or use tape to make it fit the hole.
Crikey John, I don't want to sound like a smart arse, but along with the ball piene method, we learnt this in college & in apprenticeship. I started college, whilst in work, in 1972 (motor trade discipline). God bless ya🏴
Hi John. Love the magnetic base tapping jig, but can’t find it on the Vevor site. Did you purchase it from a different site. Can you please post or add along for this. Thanks.
Painters tape us ya best mate for this kinda thing. especially if you are looking at wall mounting anything as you just stick it in place on the wall and mark/drill/cut away
I just use a silver Sharpie, remove the shears (or whatever you are mounting) and punch the Sharpie marks. Less messy and much faster. Someone else mentioned spray paint. That works, too.
Of course, the manufacturer could have anticipated this issue and provided a template, but nice workaround. Another method is to just place it on the bench where you want it, grab a can of that white foot spray and spray the bottom of the unit. Will leave three perfect circles where you need to drill and a nice confirmation outline.
You mean to say most people don't know this tip? I learned it in grade 1 art class, longer ago than I care to admit. I just transferred it to making stuff when I needed a template. So it isn't actually obvious? Man, you're making me feel like some sort of brainiac!
I use the same trick to hang pictures with one or two hooks. But instead of paper, Iuse a piece of masking tape, and then you stick the tape on the wall, so it's sure to be level.
I used to do exactly that on holden red 202 six cylinder motors in a DIY setting….. to cut new thermostat housing gaskets out of a big roll of gasket paper except rather than grime….. I’d just swipe a smidgeon of grease weeping from one of the steering joints….. Just as Mr Thompson taught us in motor mechanics at high school in 1985….. that would do the job……. (God rest him - I’m sure he’s gone to the big home workshop in the sky by now)
@@grantleyhughes Yep And the metal they used was cheap rubbish so the housing used to bow in the middle with heat, so it didn’t matter how thick the paper gasket was If you didn’t file it flat in a vice you were stuffed. …….
You could also tap out the holes with the pein end of a ball pein hammer on your piece of paper (as per tapping out a gasket). But most machinists and maybe even a boiler maker or two have a few tricks up their sleeve to make marking out simple hole patterns by measurement a quick and simple task. Also, drilling the holes a couple of mm or a 1/16" oversize and using a nut bolt and washer saves a lot of fannying around and reduces the need for absolute prescision. If you're much more than say a total of 1/2 mm out in any out between any of the holes and you've put all that effort into drilling and tapping your work bench, if there isn't much clearance in the holes on the work piece, you're in for a lot of heartache.
A) it's not permanently mounted there - I fit it as needed. So nuts and washers are a pain in the arse. B) it's not that hard to get it right/accurate under 1mm
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You can do similar, but not with "grime", use a ball pein hammer onto either paper or card, ball for the holes, flat for the edges. Doesn't just mark the outline, it actually cuts the paper/card to make an accurate template. "Back in the day" it's how we made gaskets.
We also used ball bearings for holes, one tap with a hammer and job done..
I just put the object on my scanner/copier if it's less than A4 size.
Back in the day we used and still do use a gasket hammer
You beat me to it! Next lesson is Ghetto Gaskets.
Made my first template/gasket at school in the workshop lesson, idly tapping a bit of paper on the vice while our tech teacher rattled on about Aluminium production. 1978, it was a self taught lesson i still use today.
You can also use a tin of spray paint to mark the holes when it’s in position, one small squirt marks it perfectly and there is no possible slippage.
Yup, the trick is light
except you cover your shiny new gadget in paint.
@@lefty5349 you don’t coat the whole thing , just spray inside the holes with a little paint, if there is a little overspray then just wipe it off.
Paper template.n
I was thinking about scraping a stick of chalk so that the dust covers the metal under the hole.
All the oldtimers will be looking over their glasses and stifling a chuckle.
Too much uni ,not enough shed time.Glad to see you catching up.
Dude, I have done this for 45 years. The purpose of this video is to show others.
@@AutoExpertJC Just "delete" the dirty hands.. locate the the Pad profiler.. press lightly at each corner with a clean finger/thumb & repeat at each mount hole.. bingo done.. no hand washing needed.. 50yrs in the workshop.. lovin' your vids, 👍👌 from NZ .. P.S. retirement affords the time to watch them now & share in your satire
A very good source of shims for the lathe is an old transformer that you might be scraping. The ones in microwave ovens are perfect because the top part of the transformer’s laminates forms and E, so you run the grinder lightly down the welded edge and the E comes away from the base. The base is a whole pack of laminates, perfectly flat with no burred edges and glued together ready for you to divide them up into shim packs. I have mine shim packs numbered 1 - 10 the numbers being the number of shims in a stack, then the lathe tools that need packing have the number of shims I need to get it centred. Sounds long winded but it takes about 5 minutes and is very easy for a handy man.
Back in the mid 80's, I did my locksmith trade course at Ultimo. Back then it was basically a toolmakers course with a few other things thrown in. Man some of those old tech teachers were so clever when it came to solving problems. I had so much respect for them. And now just like you, Every now and then I get to pass on a golden ticket
Hacks are the baton that should never be dropped between generations.
Small World. Did my trade in the basement across the road from building V (Vulcan Hotel)
Know it well @@wiccatrix
That is an old mechanics trick. And it works well. Along the same lines of making your own gaskets with a ball pein hammer. Have done both on many occasions. Even quicker for jobs like the one you just did. I use a round pencil stub. Spin round in hole. Perfect circle marked. Punch centre. Drill.
taking a simple Rubbing like this reminds me of the days i did stained glass restos, the rubbing was the only guide to rebuilding them after they were disassembled, worked a charm, cheers Dude
For a transfer punch I just have a 1/2 inch square bar with a hole drilled in it to take a concrete nail. The 1/2 inch square bar just slips into the back of any size 1/2 inch socket and then you can center pop boltheads or holes.
That's how I made gaskets in the old days.
I did this yesterday to mount a Gorilla electric hoist to my rooftop tent removal rack.
Picked this up back in the late 70's when I was an apprentice.
You can also make gaskets by taping around the outline with a hammer and using the ball end for the holes.
Love your magnetic tapping jig.
I use grime to show everyone where to hold the curtains for opening and where I sit, stand and lean at home. The missus loves it. Cheers
Used a similar trick for making paper gaskets for my old BSA 250 back in the day except old engine oil was handier than rusty metal, and yes, the bike still dribbled oil - just not as much.
I cast bullets. I use spray mould release: it’s a gray color. Wipes off easy. Just set that piece down, spray release where you need to see the fit up, and it will give you a perfect picture.
That's a good one, John.
I once used a clear paper sheet protector to trace outlines of odd-shaped drywall holes to cut filler pieces. Just use a marker to write on the sheet protector.
I like that mag based tapping jig, that’s genius !
I have used that tip for years great tip. Love your tapping jig!
Hey John. I generally enjoy all your videos. I particularly like this one. Loads of good information and no silly names or voices.
Nice tip I have used something similar before . That mag tap wrench is awesome I am going to suggest one of those for work because we do a lot of tapping holes .
Only recently subscribed, mainly because of your comments on those that shall not be named vehicles . But when you give insight into your engineering knowledge , I’m totally fascinated . I won’t disgrace myself by adding an emoji , so you will just have to imagine the smile on my face .
Been doing that for 25 years to make gaskets, templates etc. Since been shown this its made things easier for alot of everyday DIY jobs.
Thank you John, PAD - brilliant. I devised a similar method years ago, making paper and cardboard templates for timber joinery and fitting castors.
Or... You could locate the tool where it will eventually belong, mark each hole with a stubby Sharpie pen, center-punch, drill, tap and you're done. The paper technique is nice when the mounting location isn't on a flat, horizontal plane.
I'd just have to say, we did similar impressions in primary school... usually used chalk or charcoal, pencils sometimes. And next we'll be getting finger painting tips to create amazing masterpieces.
Or identify people
Learnt a few different versions of this as a mechanic apprentice. Extremely useful over the years
Mate! Been doing that for forty five years only I was taught to do it with oil on the parts to make transfers…serial box transfers to make gaskets were the go…cheers mate.
5:17 ... I noticed!
Only after you mentioned it and I rewound the video a few times to check 😊
Still... That's a fantastically simple, easy, and elegant (perhaps not elegant to the uneducated eyes) method to transfer the necessary dimensions without measuring a damned thing! Brilliant!
... and hot damn are those magnetic doobreies awesome!
I remember when the first magnetic surfaces you could turn on or off came out because my dad got one! I thought I still had it, but I haven't been able to find it 😢
Excellent! Excellent! Excellent! This is the very best advice ever. Thanks so much, Jim Johnston. Albion IL USA
Beautiful tip! I have to reseat an Irwin No. 6 vice on my workbench (10 mm thicksteel), and your method here will ensure it won't FLICK up again. Thanks, John!
I am a boiler maker, do this alot for other things as well, grease on your hands is useful for a lot of things, swarf if 1 hole, paper with a pencil, I have used spray paint, spit, mud, welding rod with a bend, or just cut a nikko pen off at the nib
You can also use bearing blue on the base and press the paper on to that. Good trick for making gaskets as stated below.
Also looks useful for mounting things with multiple screw holes onto a wall. Especially things where the screw holes are partially obstructed.
Stencil was my second guess and why I always have yellow and black crayons in my tool box😎👍🏻
First guess was to run the old Tipp-Ex brush down your transfer punch collar/sleeve and then centre punch the marks👍🏻
Top vid JC. Appreciated as always Sir😎👍🏻
Made many a gasket with a similar technique, quite liked the rustolium media you employed for that one.
Been doing that for years, My dad showed me when I was a tot, but your presentatin is exellent
Ha! I ran into that issue years ago... I solved my dilemma by modifying another transfer punch set, and cutting them in half. Not the most economical solution, but I had several sets laying around in my shop. Cheers!
I discovered that years ago for hanging pictures and shelving. I also line the paper with two of the edges.
Put a mounting screw in one hole, than use a level to get the second hole parallel to the ground.
Mind blown! Thanks for the tip John!
As an apprentice fitter and machinist, I learnt that trick in the 1970s.
Though, your definition of CAD was a new one to me.
Thank You for sharing this with us!
Somebody is a rock star genius.
You, are a Doctor of Science!
One other pearl of fabrication wisdom in line of your PAD/ CAD pattern put some studs in the cordless drill lathe and then using a grinder - air or cordless make points on the bolts (studs) that act as centres - you can then screw those into any threaded hole and then use the points to transfer those bolt hole centres to your paper or cardboard pattern and there you have it. equally the dirty finger marking of the paper paten over the surface . (used to make engine mounting plates for Hot rods and car or bike engine swaps)
That's pretty much how I make paper gaskets..... and have done for many years..... surprised people didn't know this. I always prick the hole locations through the paper before turning over to punch the marks... It's easier to centre them that way.
Been using this trick for years. But the magnetic base tapping tool - now THAT got my attention!! :)
A simple piece of paper can have a lot of different uses.
I have some spools of filament for my 3D printer that are smaller than the standard 1KG size, and these smaller spools don't work properly in the AMS of my Bambu printer. So, I printed some spacer rings to increase the diameter of the spools, but on a couple of the spools they're a slightly loose fit.
My solution: Use a piece of paper to fill the gap.
Hi John, great to see your've discovered paper aided design.And thanks for showing the current generation, how it always been done before the ruler was invented.
l won't brag ,but most of us bushees' have been doing this for most of our penny pinching lives, with old corn flakes packets (as some of your other correspondence writers have commented) and copper sheet, when making head gaskets for side valve briggs and stratton motors running gensets or water pumps, miles from anywhere, just add a smear of grease and tighten, torque till grease oozes out and it'll run for another 10 years,and don't forget the bailing wire to hold it onto the frame as those hi tension bolts have usually rattled loose .
Have been doing that for about 40 years. Never thought that anybody would not be able just do it.
Dude, I'm showing the next generation something I was shown 45 years ago.
The engineer's version of UK church brass rubbing. Great video as usual@@AutoExpertJC
For a bit of added security, small bits of double-sided tape help too. No slip on the copy side nor the paste side.
Careful when peeling, though.
Love your videos John, can you please do more on stick welding, especially vertical up and tig welding, thanks
I'm not set up for TIG, but stick - sure. Best vertical up tip: flip the part and weld it downhand. (If possible.)
@@AutoExpertJCWhat do you need for TIG? Gas and a tip? I understand it is a safer process and more precise.
Not sure on the vertical up trick. Welding vertical up on clean work, should be inclusion free, and good penetration. U pattern.
@@dankeen4030 christmas tree pattern works best for vertical up welding
Define 'safer'. Certainly not safer with (for example) stainless steel @ home. Can't really be done outside. Requires obsessive cleanliness, different gas, dedicated tungsten grinder, TIG torch, foot pedal, different welder entirely (for aluminium).
Always check the papers inside the box, or for a layout on the box, as a good manufacturer should provide a template.
I fear even the good manufacturers will refrain from spending this kind of money... At least in the higher end products you will get a dimensional drawing, which is nice for a 50k industrial component.
@@kampar82 What I was referring to here is just the cost of printing on paper. There are also very expensive steel templates for large equipment foundations, where they are needed to match up anchor bolts set in concrete.
@@Andriastravels In my previous position a supplier skipped dry assembling floodgates. The bolting holes did not match, but at least they got some experience transporting back and forth the 10 ton pieces. Now I'm involved with industrial equipment, I tried being sarcastic because sometimes any idiotic "saving" can be made. I have had to make spool pieces for pipelines, more expensive templates with a pressure rating.
@@kampar82 It happens - once we designed and tried to install a mirror image of a PVC reactor unit - on a lump sum contract, no less. I like sarcasm, but in comments sometimes it is difficult to tell. I used to get some heat at work with sarcasm sometimes, as everybody should smile and say everything's great.
Back in my office days I used a photocopier to print the underside of extension cord surge protectors to perfectly position nails for hanging
I was blown away by this method. But that was back in shop class, in the early 1970s. I was a snot nose 13yo, and this was shown to me by the old (probably only in his late 40s, then) shop teacher.
I was shown by a toolmaker, when I was 15.
Interesting. I would use center transfer plugs. (button pins). They are pins with a shoulder and a point in the center. One places them in the bottom of the base, sets the base down and taps on the base to set the marks. Amazon calls them "Dowel pin centers". Cool paper trick! Cheers.
I've seen a similar trick when you want to mount something like a powerboard that has a couple of screw holes in the back of it.
A bit of tape over the holes, get a texta to mark the holes and their shape on the tape, peel it off and stick it to whatever you want to put the mounting screws into.
Simples.
Also try masking tape! Layer it up so it's a few layers thick. Poke through the holes, trim the edge with a knife, make any necessary markings /orientations. Peel it off and transfer it to whatever you need. Learned this one in a panel beating vid.
I learned a similar technique , as a Grade 1 artificer in the Australian Navy , 40 plus years ago .
Naval Equipment CAN be older than your Grandfather...... with technical paperwork misplaced Decades ago .
Yep this really simple technique works like a CHARM .
Another way is the "photocopier" trick - if you have one, of course. Just put the device on the copier (try to not break or scratch the glass, works well for lighter things like power boards), make the copy, trim if needed. Make sure the copy is actually a 100% image, nit 99% or 101%.
Or a scanner - if you can guarantee 1:1 reproduction, and if the part is smaller than A4...
Ooowoo, fabulous tip. I work wood, often hard wood.
I've adapted many metal working tools to my trade (shopfitter) as woodwork can sometimes be a bit vague on accuracy.
thats the beauty of wood: it gives you "wiggle room" and sufficient strength (if designed properly).
Great simple 1:1 markout trick, but be carful on the markout bench. No hammers allowed , or hammer used on fingers by the teacher. Have a good one.
eee i learned that when i was at school 11 yr old I'm now an old codger the things you learn at school and by the way love your channel keep it up sir
I think they called that stencilling in TAFE … we used bearing blue as the transfer medium but, “grime” is much cheaper.
Great stuff! What a great addition to the workshop and the clues to do it. Many thanks!
I fell into the same answer once before. I used a piece of paper and a pencil to mark off the holes in much the same way, and noticed that all the graphite was getting all over the place making marks in places that were just as handy. It’s a good solution which I fell into quite by accident as well! Good idea to share it, I appreciate your videos - it would be nice if I could share them with my wife once in a while, the language gets too severe in my opinion, but I can see past it. I appreciate your mastery of the language and the thought you put into your videos, but might I recommend it is more clever to use proper language then to throw the F bomb and other nonessential words into an otherwise well thought out video,makes u look lazy. I recommend reserving those words for conditions that truly deserve accentuation. The 10 times in my life I’ve thrown out the f bomb in conversation, everyone took notice because it had meaning.
Nice one. I know Cad... And now Pad. Thanks John.
The working man's wisdom. Very impressive.
That is a good tip, especially for old equipment but usually in the case of new equipment you would hope it comes with a drawing either in the box or on the website you bought it from.
I did something similar the other day. I just got a new Sigmund welding table. It’s a great table, if you can figure out how to get the legs on. They attach on a ledge beneath the surface where you can’t see the screw holes. The leg attaches with two hardened 16mm bolts. But, first some reason, there are 6 holes down there, arraigned in a circle, as I found out, which you can’t see, but can feel from the bottom. The problem is they don’t tell you which holes to use. If you get one screw in, the other can’t find a hole most of the time. If you can, the leg isn’t straight and square, but at some weird angle. So I finally, after playing around with it for some time, took a piece of paper oriented it with the corner matching a table corner on the ledge, and punched then holes through the paper with my finger. Then I was able to put the paper on the leg and move it around until I found the proper holes. I don’t understand why companies do that. At least provide a piece of paper showing which holes to use.
Punching holes with paper is great, however I would use some adhesive tape either under the paper[doubled over on itself to be sticky both sides] or on top on the edges, with my luck the paper would creep a bit and muck up my accuracy without it.
This is a neat trick. BUT, for decades I just used a short pencil to mark the location of the holes then carefully used a center punch by eye to get the center of the hole. I can't tell you how much I would have given to have the magnetic drill and especially the magnetic tapping gizmo.
Another great job John as usual thanks
Hi John Great tip video.
Can I find out where you got your glasses from as they look like a great help as well.
First thing I thought of when you started this, we were taught to make paper gaskets at school.
A bit of paint on the bottom of your capscrew in each hole works too.
Another way of positioning holes is to place the item where you want it. Put some grease on the end of a bolt and put the bolt into the holes leaving a round smear of grease on the base. Punch the middle of the grease rounds then proceed as normal. No paper, no dirty hands and done quicker
Paper in vice jaws was a good tip given to me if you don't want to mark your work and if it's a three hands fiddley job use masking tape 👍
Thank you John.
Nice, the best solutions are usually the simple ones.
Kudos to you, John! Any lesser man would have edited out the blooper!! Thanks for passing along the tip.
That trick works great for those annoying power strips that have slotted screw holes on the back. Take a piece of paper and do the exact same thing and then just put where you want to mount it.
I have used that trick for years, except I use a carpenters pencil to rub over the paper an stick it down with masking tape to stop it from moving.
Yep, done that before. Great idea
I’ve been doing this for over 40 years. A quicker method in your case will be to use graphite grease on the base around the holes and press the base onto the bench.
Wouldn't it be easier to just put that thing on the paper, draw around the base and then take that same pencil or pen and just make a scribble circle inside each hole? If the pencil is to long to fit under, just break it off and voila. It'll be more precise than a smeared on imprint. Even better. If you want to center that hole, just put the pencil inside a socket bit, which fits into the hole. It'll center the pen. Or use tape to make it fit the hole.
Have you ever done anything practical?
Love this channel - Dude!
Fair enough John. I like your toys. 🖤
Crikey John, I don't want to sound like a smart arse, but along with the ball piene method, we learnt this in college & in apprenticeship. I started college, whilst in work, in 1972 (motor trade discipline).
God bless ya🏴
Yeah - I learned it about 45 years ago...
@@AutoExpertJCfair play dude👍🏽🏴
Ball "piene"...
Is that a kink thing?
Hi John.
Love the magnetic base tapping jig, but can’t find it on the Vevor site. Did you purchase it from a different site. Can you please post or add along for this. Thanks.
Painters tape us ya best mate for this kinda thing. especially if you are looking at wall mounting anything as you just stick it in place on the wall and mark/drill/cut away
I just use a silver Sharpie, remove the shears (or whatever you are mounting) and punch the Sharpie marks. Less messy and much faster. Someone else mentioned spray paint. That works, too.
Not accurate enough if you're drilling & tapping.
Try to keep up, or watch some cat shorts.
just pressing down on paper or cardboard should leave a perfect impression in the rightdirection?
You could also use Heelball, graphite sticks or chalk.
Of course, the manufacturer could have anticipated this issue and provided a template, but nice workaround. Another method is to just place it on the bench where you want it, grab a can of that white foot spray and spray the bottom of the unit. Will leave three perfect circles where you need to drill and a nice confirmation outline.
You mean to say most people don't know this tip? I learned it in grade 1 art class, longer ago than I care to admit. I just transferred it to making stuff when I needed a template. So it isn't actually obvious? Man, you're making me feel like some sort of brainiac!
I've used paper to count splines on a drive-shaft. Wrap it round, simples.
I did not know that one thanks for the info
I’ve made gaskets using that sort of method for years, however, I use a hammer / ball bearing to cut the gasket
Same trick we used when making gaskets in the old (80s) days.
I use the same trick to hang pictures with one or two hooks. But instead of paper, Iuse a piece of masking tape, and then you stick the tape on the wall, so it's sure to be level.
The masking tape trick - also great for power boards...
Thanks John mate 😊.
I used to do exactly that on holden red 202 six cylinder motors in a DIY setting…..
to cut new thermostat housing gaskets out of a big roll of gasket paper
except rather than grime….. I’d just swipe a smidgeon of grease weeping from one of the steering joints…..
Just as Mr Thompson taught us in motor mechanics at high school in 1985…..
that would do the job…….
(God rest him - I’m sure he’s gone to the big home workshop in the sky by now)
Because the original gasket supplied was like a piece of rice paper.
@@grantleyhughes
Yep
And the metal they used was cheap rubbish so the housing used to bow in the middle with heat,
so it didn’t matter how thick the paper gasket was
If you didn’t file it flat in a vice you were stuffed. …….
You could also tap out the holes with the pein end of a ball pein hammer on your piece of paper (as per tapping out a gasket). But most machinists and maybe even a boiler maker or two have a few tricks up their sleeve to make marking out simple hole patterns by measurement a quick and simple task. Also, drilling the holes a couple of mm or a 1/16" oversize and using a nut bolt and washer saves a lot of fannying around and reduces the need for absolute prescision. If you're much more than say a total of 1/2 mm out in any out between any of the holes and you've put all that effort into drilling and tapping your work bench, if there isn't much clearance in the holes on the work piece, you're in for a lot of heartache.
A) it's not permanently mounted there - I fit it as needed. So nuts and washers are a pain in the arse.
B) it's not that hard to get it right/accurate under 1mm
@@AutoExpertJC Yeah, I keep forgetting, some people find the whole nut and bolt thing tricky 😄
Try to keep up.
@@AutoExpertJC I seem to be a few steps ahead 🥰
To you...
Those throatless shears are brilliant ,work very well!
Very good at complex shapes, rust repairs, etc.