Thank you! I always appreciate your comments. Feedback is invaluable. I'm fortunate to have viewers so engaged with this project. Couldn't do it without you!
So in the video here you spoke of possibly drawing up plans for this build. If/when you decide to do so, you'll have my full attention, I can assure ya. Excellent work, sir!
@@MrUnderhilllI'd expect it to hold up pretty well as long as it isn't constantly docked in the water. Biggest problem I can see is it getting rubbed off during transport/loading/unloading. You'd just have to keep an eye on it and touch it up as needed
If you take the trouble to build a boat, then at least buy "water boiled plywood", that is the marine plywood. It is a lot more expensive, but that plywood stays being plywood, even six feet deep in the sea. Then you have a boat that gets seventy years old, if you paint it every couple of years. Now? You need to store it in a dry place, or it is gone before you can.
@ marine grade plywood and exterior grade plywood utilize the same glue and often the same wood such as fir. The difference is in voids. Marine grade plywood has less voids so in theory is stronger. No difference in water resistance or rot resistance. Both still need to be protected from environment.
Your video skills are equal to your building skills. Even if you dont care about boats its such a soothing gentle video. I built Parker's 19Ft Ohio Sharpie Skiff and have experienced all the benefits and drawbacks of the flat bottom. My primary need was shallow draft. 4 in with swing centre board up . Two sheets are the only running rigging. Freestanding bamboo pole masts. Its cat ketch so the foremast is right up in the eyes and the mainmast, as I call it, cos its closer to the middle of the hull is two inches shorter. Has balanced rudder which goes under the transom. Not good as you cant easily lift rudder when sailing on rocks. Done that a bit cos I love shallow sailing.And dont try walking around foremast while sailing or at anchor. You will tilt her up and there is no stability with half the hull out of the water and over she goes. Have capsized her under tow as painter was fitted high up on stem . Should be fitted down at waterline so bow doesnt get pulled under between waves when towing. She then drifted into sandy sloping beach with a little swell running and vacuumed onto the sand . Not enough to float her and too much to suck her off the bottom. Had to leave her to her fate overnight but managed to refloat her next day on high tide, walked her into deeper water to roll her over and then walked the submerged hull into the shallows to bail out and get back to my boatshed where I slipped her and had to pump out about 1/4 of a ton of sand. No damage except for sand chafe on stem. Saved all my gear but lost a sailing jacket.It is important that C/B case goes higher than gunnel, it may look goofy but without the height you cant bail her when submerged to neutral bouyancy as the water overflows the case. back into the hull.Give sharpies a go ,they are fun within their few limitations.
Thanks for the kind words. Truthfully, I'm mediocre at best, but can become very motivated when I get the bug. Sounds like you've been through it all with your sharpie. Very informative. I love hearing these kinds of first hand accounts. Interesting point about the trunk. I hadn't considered that. A sealed cap would solve the issue, but I know some boats require an open top trunk to accommodate a larger board.
Sweet little skiff you built yourself there. Here in Maine we seldom see that kind of flat water so I'd need to add another six inch plank to increase the freeboard a bit. Not difficult to do and would not add much weight. The wavy pattern on you side planks are chatter marks from the finish planer at the mil. They just pushed those planks through the machine to fast and that's the result.
I'm making a 9' dingy (beam of about 4'9") my fourth build, from plywood and planning to solve the floatation issue using several inflatable boat fenders fastened to the frames with big eye screws. I found some nice teal colored ones from one company. I'm using a dagger board.
You made the construction very understandable. I bought a very similar DIY boat from someone.never sailed before, absolutely love sailing now. It's falling apart.time to build my own sailboat!
Tjat ripple you refer to appears to be planing chatter from the mill, not a result of bending. It will be more apparent in certain lighting conditions so you may not have noticed it in the lumber yard
Nice little boat , I built a canoe years ago out of ply wood and then added a mast anda lug sail , wow I was impressed with it , I sailed hobbie sail boats when I was younger in my teens , since then built a motor boat 13 foot run about skiff and love to build a sail boat all over again after watching your video , my next build though will be so I can take it out into the ocean not just a lake or lock sailor , in Australia here we beautiful coast line to sail and stop at amazing beaches as well so now back to the drawing board to see what boat I want to build for my purpose , happy sailing who knows where boat building will take you ,it addictive 👍
Don't know much about sailing but i bet i could build it. Im in my 50s and have rediscovered the pleasures of non-moterized boating with canoeing and such. Very interesting build ❤
One of the things that make a boat beautiful is how well it fullfils it's function. It takes a practiced eye to appreciate that. Your boat is beautiful.
To me a small wooden flat iron skiff like yours beats a noisy aluminum motorboat. My favorite design is a very small traditional Chesapeake crab skiff in the National Watercraft Collection with plans in Sucher's "The Flat Bottom Boat". It is strictly a rowing boat (sail and cb could easily be added) and the hull lines are the most elegant I've ever laid eyes on. It is well within the ability of someone with some basic carpentry sills.
The part of the reel parker book that he references, has guide lines and examples of how boats were often made in the past... that's what he was referencing. It's not really a plan, and Cumberland rover used it as a guideline. Great book, it does have plans and tables of offsets for other hulls,
I love this little boat and may end up making one as my first boat build ever and have an idea how to build a how to build a bigger one so I can take my niece fishing
i also would like to know more particulars on the mast and spars. It looks like the later are 1 1/4" dowel, but the mast? A couple of 2 x 4s glued together and rounded off?
The guides that rowed the Adirondack boats had a rowing style where they overlapped the oars (crossing their hands) because the boats are so narrow. I wonder if that would help with the lower position of the oar locks here...🤔
Beautiful eye catching lines..super filming & narration..bet Wooden Boat Magazine would love presenting this via a full write-up. Canyon , with big gratefulness, and I'll 2nd- ' for sure- Saucy
Very nice boat. I also wanted a pickup bed boat. The Piccup Pram by Jim Michalak worked really well for me. A kayak dolly made it much easier to get the boat around.
Very nice. What type? 12 seems to be the magic number for small recreational boats. I love my bigger boats, but tend to have the most fun in the small ones.
@@cumberlandrover I'm building sort of a cross between Jim Michalak's Mayfl12 (flatiron skiff) and his Skat (catboat). In Missouri a sailboat under 12' with no motor doesn't require registration which makes them very attractive : )
@@geneberry7114 Interesting. The mayfly has some wild rocker for its length. Looks fun. No registry does sweeten the appeal haha. In Ky any non-powered vessel is registration exempt. I guess we're lucky.
Inspiring. Got the sharpie book thanks to this video. Will attempt a spring build. Any other books you suggest? Also, did you show us how you built your mast step?
@@mxDuzt Good luck to you! The Sharpie Book is pretty comprehensive. I cut the seat with a 2in hole saw where the mast passes through. The step is made from a pine 1x4, and also cut with a 2in hole saw. It's screwed to the keelson with 4 #8 deck screws. It's best for the holes to be a little larger than the mast. You can make a tight fit using a leather collar, tape, etc. Before fastening the step in, pass the mast through the hole in the seat and mark the step location on the keelson. Also, it's important to rig the halyard in such a way that it holds the mast down, preventing it from jumping out of the step. My halyard runs through a fairlead on the seat (mast partner), and aft to a cleat on the daggerboard trunk.
I am on my second canoe build. I am loving your channel. Thank you for sharing. The horizontal lines in the side board was from it not being sanded after planing. What glue are you using?
I've watched this so many times. Thanks for putting this out for all of us to enjoy. I'm inspired to build this boat as my first. How tall is your mast and square foot of sail?
Rocker is determined by the flare angle of the sides. Flare angle is set by the trapezoid shape of the temporary center mold and the transom. More flare creates more fore-aft rocker. It's also possible to cut a curve on the bottom of the side planks to create rocker. Building card stock models really helps to visualize how this works.
hey Rover, what exactly are you using for the rollers, my hobie compass is a little heavy for me to get to the water.......I enjoy your films.......Bama rick
I’ve watched a LOT of boat builds lately and yours is one of my favorites. Although, you made me question the boat I want to build so I’m struggling a bit. I like the ugly but practical Oz Goose plywood boats. I don’t have any experience but it seems doable. But after watching the simple and elegant way you made this boat, I’m not as sure about the Oz. One thing I would want to do differently is have it a bit more above the waterline. This will probably be a dumb question but my local big box store has 12x4x1/4 shiplap cedar that’s reasonably priced. Do you think it would be possible to use that, glueing as I go, to make a similar boat with about 3 more inches above the waterline? I don’t need a boat for the open ocean but we do have 100’+ yachts that cause serious wakes. One other question: if I’m not mistaken, the plywood you used was not marine grade, correct? Pretty much everyone on the internet says you can’t get away with standard plywood. I’m thinking if it’s sealed, painted, and kept stored dry it should be okay to not spend a small fortune on marine grade. Any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for sharing your videos. They are pleasant to watch and inspiring.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it. Excellent questions, and I appreciate the feedback. Keep in mind: I'm no expert, and have no special knowledge other than a good amount of experience tinkering around with boats. I've built several, 3 that I consider very successful. I would recommend taking a look at The Sharpie Book by Reul Parker before starting a build. That is an excellent primer on this type of craft that includes detailed building methods and sample plans. More free board would be nice. Mainly at the bow. An extra 3 inches would be perfect. Regardless, a skiff this small is really only suited to protected waters, and even then, there's always a way to find trouble ;) To my knowledge, the best way to gain this height is by using plywood joined with butt blocks (on ends to achieve 12ft length). Or, instead of a single 12in wide board for each side, use 2 8in wide boards butted together on edge (or a 10 and a 6 for example). This is how my 15ft skiff was planked. It ads a considerable amount of work and complexity. Vertical frames mast be used to tie the planking together. I would say 1/4 in is too thin for solid wood. Fewer joints is better for this style of build, as it can be a pain to fit and make tight. I like the lowest plank to be wide enough that the joint with the plank above it is above the waterline. I would not recommend 4in wide boards. Some skiffs are built with planking that narrow, but have to be caulked with cotton (which must be continually maintained) If you want the boat to last as long as possible, maybe marine ply would be best. I honestly don't know. My understanding is that there is not a major difference between the adhesives used on exterior grade ply and marine. The main thing is that the glue be waterproof. I've been successful using exterior ply on several small boats (just painted regularly). I know they won't last forever. Coat with epoxy, and/or fiberglass tape the seams, and exterior plywood will probably last a lifetime.
Wow! Fantastic build. I’m very impressed by your skills. The Sharpie book is a great resource along with Chappell. They’re in my library too. Looking forward to seeing you sail your fleet, Captain. What’s the length? Don’t think I caught that. Well done. Cheers.
I’m planning on building this with my father in law and our biggest question is regarding the actual sail rig. We aren’t sure you set that up and was wondering if you could give us some guidance.
This video should help: ruclips.net/video/5Cbj1CNOqc0/видео.html Detailed plans for this boat will be available to purchase in the very near future. Plans will include CAD drawings, step by step instructions, and the necessary dimensions/angles. They are almost finished, and should be available sometime in December.
It's available occasionally. To me, it's not worth shelling out the cash for small and experimental builds like this. For the right build, I would love cypress.
Hey CR, sorry for a comment on the year old video...planning a build like this very soon. Did you use the PL to glue up the Stern boards as well? Along with some clamps I assume before cutting. Thank you sir. I'm going to ware a hole in the internet watching this video over and over again.
Not a problem at all. The videos don't expire, and neither do the comments! I actually used Titan Tibond to edge glue the transom stock. (I think Tibond 2. Whichever is waterproof.) It's also a good idea to alternate the grain on the upper and lower boards. Look at the half circle (partial sections of tree rings) of the end grain, and set them facing opposite directions. Yes, big clamps! Glue and Clamp overnight. Wipe any excess glue thoroughly while wet. It's a pain to sand when it dries. I'm seriously wanting to get some plans out for this skiff, but it's going to be awhile. It's a big undertaking, and I'm busy enough as it is. Good luck to you!
I've done some sewing of sails, but not this one. It was purchased from Chesapeake Light Craft a while back for an old project. I may end up sewing a new lug sail for this boat. I think it would benefit from just a tiny bit more sail area.
@@cumberlandrover I really like this boat and am thinking about a copy for our calmer inland NC waters. Was the reasoning for the Lug sail shape because of your experience with them? I'm using a LOM for a Goose currently and think that sail would look nice on your Sharpie.
In my state, staying under 12' means that I don't have to register the boat (according to gov website). That would be ideal as a project for me and my son.
The ripple marks "pitch marks" are from the timber machining through the planer. Poor timber machining practice. Feed speed, blunt/over jointed knives etc
That flat bottom is easy building, but you are not exactly afraid to glue and screw a boat. Then can't you saw some triangle shaped beams to support a shallow V bottom? The boat would sail better, and how much support does that V need?
My Pepere would call this a chaloupe. Pronounced "Shall-oh" in our Acadian French. You can still see these little knock around boats all over French New Brunswick
@@chrisgardner3606 search engine optimization. Basically he wants money to make this video easier for people to find by using hash tags, keywords, and submitting links to the different search engines, each with its own price most likely, and when it doesn't work to increase the traffic substantially enough to justify the hundreds spent on it, he will basically defend his actions by saying something like "I never promised anything more than an X % increase in views," or another loophole he devised to get out of refunding the exorbitant amount he charges.
I can't tell you how much I enjoy your channel boating at it's purists and the waters there offer a wonderful backdrop.
Thanks for posting
Thank you! I always appreciate your comments. Feedback is invaluable. I'm fortunate to have viewers so engaged with this project. Couldn't do it without you!
So in the video here you spoke of possibly drawing up plans for this build. If/when you decide to do so, you'll have my full attention, I can assure ya. Excellent work, sir!
mine too
Mine3
It is called the Oz Goose. Plans are available online for $40.
This is nice, simple boatbuilding. No epoxy, no „marine” products. Something everyone can build in the garage.
How well will the house paint hold up to the water over time?
@@MrUnderhilllI'd expect it to hold up pretty well as long as it isn't constantly docked in the water. Biggest problem I can see is it getting rubbed off during transport/loading/unloading. You'd just have to keep an eye on it and touch it up as needed
If you take the trouble to build a boat, then at least buy "water boiled plywood", that is the marine plywood. It is a lot more expensive, but that plywood stays being plywood, even six feet deep in the sea. Then you have a boat that gets seventy years old, if you paint it every couple of years. Now? You need to store it in a dry place, or it is gone before you can.
@ marine grade plywood and exterior grade plywood utilize the same glue and often the same wood such as fir. The difference is in voids. Marine grade plywood has less voids so in theory is stronger. No difference in water resistance or rot resistance. Both still need to be protected from environment.
Your video skills are equal to your building skills. Even if you dont care about boats its such a soothing gentle video.
I built Parker's 19Ft Ohio Sharpie Skiff and have experienced all the benefits and drawbacks of the flat bottom. My primary need was shallow draft. 4 in with swing centre board up . Two sheets are the only running rigging. Freestanding bamboo pole masts. Its cat ketch so the foremast is right up in the eyes and the mainmast, as I call it, cos its closer to the middle of the hull is two inches shorter. Has balanced rudder which goes under the transom. Not good as you cant easily lift rudder when sailing on rocks. Done that a bit cos I love shallow sailing.And dont try walking around foremast while sailing or at anchor. You will tilt her up and there is no stability with half the hull out of the water and over she goes.
Have capsized her under tow as painter was fitted high up on stem . Should be fitted down at waterline so bow doesnt get pulled under between waves when towing. She then drifted into sandy sloping beach with a little swell running and vacuumed onto the sand . Not enough to float her and too much to suck her off the bottom. Had to leave her to her fate overnight but managed to refloat her next day on high tide, walked her into deeper water to roll her over and then walked the submerged hull into the shallows to bail out and get back to my boatshed where I slipped her and had to pump out about 1/4 of a ton of sand. No damage except for sand chafe on stem. Saved all my gear but lost a sailing jacket.It is important that C/B case goes higher than gunnel, it may look goofy but without the height you cant bail her when submerged to neutral bouyancy as the water overflows the case. back into the hull.Give sharpies a go ,they are fun within their few limitations.
Thanks for the kind words. Truthfully, I'm mediocre at best, but can become very motivated when I get the bug. Sounds like you've been through it all with your sharpie. Very informative. I love hearing these kinds of first hand accounts. Interesting point about the trunk. I hadn't considered that. A sealed cap would solve the issue, but I know some boats require an open top trunk to accommodate a larger board.
Your boat is influencing the dreams of many people,encouraging along
Love your build, it all makes sense when you mentioned duck punt, seems like the type of boat I want to build. Simple and light are what I am after.
Sweet little skiff you built yourself there. Here in Maine we seldom see that kind of flat water so I'd need to add another six inch plank to increase the freeboard a bit. Not difficult to do and would not add much weight. The wavy pattern on you side planks are chatter marks from the finish planer at the mil. They just pushed those planks through the machine to fast and that's the result.
Love the build!! Great Boat and I totally could use one in my area!!
This is awesome. I had no idea you could just damn build a boat.
i mean people did it for millenia, why couldn't you with modern tooling :D
Beautiful, conjuring up early 1900s vibes with the blue. And the old sail shape.
Favorite boat building video I've ever watched.
I'm making a 9' dingy (beam of about 4'9") my fourth build, from plywood and planning to solve the floatation issue using several inflatable boat fenders fastened to the frames with big eye screws. I found some nice teal colored ones from one company. I'm using a dagger board.
This is the most well designed boat ive seen ever if you do get those plans ill be buying a set
I think the ripples, that you mention, look like wobbles from the bandsaw mill that produced the plank. Dan S.from Michigan and Texas
thickness planer rather , as someone explained above
You made the construction very understandable. I bought a very similar DIY boat from someone.never sailed before, absolutely love sailing now. It's falling apart.time to build my own sailboat!
Tjat ripple you refer to appears to be planing chatter from the mill, not a result of bending. It will be more apparent in certain lighting conditions so you may not have noticed it in the lumber yard
Or maybe the bending stressed the wood enough to accentuate the planing "ripple"?
Very good boat, super video!!!
Nice little boat , I built a canoe years ago out of ply wood and then added a mast anda lug sail , wow I was impressed with it , I sailed hobbie sail boats when I was younger in my teens , since then built a motor boat 13 foot run about skiff and love to build a sail boat all over again after watching your video , my next build though will be so I can take it out into the ocean not just a lake or lock sailor , in Australia here we beautiful coast line to sail and stop at amazing beaches as well so now back to the drawing board to see what boat I want to build for my purpose , happy sailing who knows where boat building will take you ,it addictive 👍
Great skiff. Nice work getting it fit out and into the bigger waters with the sail.
Don't know much about sailing but i bet i could build it. Im in my 50s and have rediscovered the pleasures of non-moterized boating with canoeing and such. Very interesting build ❤
One of the things that make a boat beautiful is how well it fullfils it's function. It takes a practiced eye to appreciate that. Your boat is beautiful.
To me a small wooden flat iron skiff like yours beats a noisy aluminum motorboat. My favorite design is a very small traditional Chesapeake crab skiff in the National Watercraft Collection with plans in Sucher's "The Flat Bottom Boat". It is strictly a rowing boat (sail and cb could easily be added) and the hull lines are the most elegant I've ever laid eyes on. It is well within the ability of someone with some basic carpentry sills.
it’s not in the description, but at 3:09 he mentions that the boat is made from the sharpie book by reuel parker
The part of the reel parker book that he references, has guide lines and examples of how boats were often made in the past... that's what he was referencing. It's not really a plan, and Cumberland rover used it as a guideline. Great book, it does have plans and tables of offsets for other hulls,
I love old boats my dream has been to build my own baot thank you old see cap.
I love this little boat and may end up making one as my first boat build ever and have an idea how to build a how to build a bigger one so I can take my niece fishing
A very nice boat design with minimal inputs and materials. Thank you.
Would have liked some detail on what wood you chose for the mast and whatnot, love the boat!
i also would like to know more particulars on the mast and spars. It looks like the later are 1 1/4" dowel, but the mast? A couple of 2 x 4s glued together and rounded off?
This looks really easy to make
I think you did a fantastic job on this mate.
Very nice
Well done. That’s a sweet little skiff. A great entry level single handed boat. Great video. I envy you your building space.😊
The guides that rowed the Adirondack boats had a rowing style where they overlapped the oars (crossing their hands) because the boats are so narrow. I wonder if that would help with the lower position of the oar locks here...🤔
Beautiful eye catching lines..super filming & narration..bet Wooden Boat Magazine would love presenting this via a full write-up. Canyon , with big gratefulness, and I'll 2nd- ' for sure- Saucy
This is amazing!
Thank you for sharing
Loved the little digression on your families history. And great boat btw
Very nice boat. I also wanted a pickup bed boat. The Piccup Pram by Jim Michalak worked really well for me. A kayak dolly made it much easier to get the boat around.
May i ask how you waterproofed the seams where the plywwood bottom connects to the side planks? Great boat and vid. Thank you.
Great job!
Nice work! How much did it cost?
That’s a big success ❤
Nice build. i'm building a little 12 footer over the winter myself. just can't beat small boats for the most fun in the smallest package.
Very nice. What type? 12 seems to be the magic number for small recreational boats. I love my bigger boats, but tend to have the most fun in the small ones.
@@cumberlandrover I'm building sort of a cross between Jim Michalak's Mayfl12 (flatiron skiff) and his Skat (catboat). In Missouri a sailboat under 12' with no motor doesn't require registration which makes them very attractive : )
@@geneberry7114 Interesting. The mayfly has some wild rocker for its length. Looks fun. No registry does sweeten the appeal haha. In Ky any non-powered vessel is registration exempt. I guess we're lucky.
Inspiring. Got the sharpie book thanks to this video. Will attempt a spring build. Any other books you suggest? Also, did you show us how you built your mast step?
@@mxDuzt Good luck to you! The Sharpie Book is pretty comprehensive. I cut the seat with a 2in hole saw where the mast passes through. The step is made from a pine 1x4, and also cut with a 2in hole saw. It's screwed to the keelson with 4 #8 deck screws. It's best for the holes to be a little larger than the mast. You can make a tight fit using a leather collar, tape, etc. Before fastening the step in, pass the mast through the hole in the seat and mark the step location on the keelson. Also, it's important to rig the halyard in such a way that it holds the mast down, preventing it from jumping out of the step. My halyard runs through a fairlead on the seat (mast partner), and aft to a cleat on the daggerboard trunk.
Muito obrigado por postar seu conhecimento com barcos, este modelo é muito bom 🎖️🙏 thanks 🙏👍
Awesome video makes me want to build this boat and if a guy had a list of his materials that would be pretty amazing!
I am on my second canoe build. I am loving your channel. Thank you for sharing.
The horizontal lines in the side board was from it not being sanded after planing.
What glue are you using?
I've watched this so many times. Thanks for putting this out for all of us to enjoy. I'm inspired to build this boat as my first.
How tall is your mast and square foot of sail?
This is so cool
Both sides have planer ripples from the sawmill, starboard outside, port inside.
How did you choose the angles for the midship thing that you bent the boards around? Or for the transom angles?
Do you have the plans for this boat and mast/sail? seems like a fun project!
Coffee, Tea & Rum! Ahoy!
Beautiful little boat! Something I don’t understand how do you achieve the rocker?
Rocker is determined by the flare angle of the sides. Flare angle is set by the trapezoid shape of the temporary center mold and the transom. More flare creates more fore-aft rocker. It's also possible to cut a curve on the bottom of the side planks to create rocker. Building card stock models really helps to visualize how this works.
Thanks for the info!!!
hey Rover, what exactly are you using for the rollers, my hobie compass is a little heavy for me to get to the water.......I enjoy your films.......Bama rick
Beautiful channel and amazing adventures brother. I love what you are doing. Your work is inspiring and exciting.
I’ve watched a LOT of boat builds lately and yours is one of my favorites. Although, you made me question the boat I want to build so I’m struggling a bit.
I like the ugly but practical Oz Goose plywood boats. I don’t have any experience but it seems doable. But after watching the simple and elegant way you made this boat, I’m not as sure about the Oz.
One thing I would want to do differently is have it a bit more above the waterline. This will probably be a dumb question but my local big box store has 12x4x1/4 shiplap cedar that’s reasonably priced. Do you think it would be possible to use that, glueing as I go, to make a similar boat with about 3 more inches above the waterline? I don’t need a boat for the open ocean but we do have 100’+ yachts that cause serious wakes.
One other question: if I’m not mistaken, the plywood you used was not marine grade, correct? Pretty much everyone on the internet says you can’t get away with standard plywood. I’m thinking if it’s sealed, painted, and kept stored dry it should be okay to not spend a small fortune on marine grade.
Any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for sharing your videos. They are pleasant to watch and inspiring.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it. Excellent questions, and I appreciate the feedback. Keep in mind: I'm no expert, and have no special knowledge other than a good amount of experience tinkering around with boats. I've built several, 3 that I consider very successful.
I would recommend taking a look at The Sharpie Book by Reul Parker before starting a build. That is an excellent primer on this type of craft that includes detailed building methods and sample plans.
More free board would be nice. Mainly at the bow. An extra 3 inches would be perfect. Regardless, a skiff this small is really only suited to protected waters, and even then, there's always a way to find trouble ;)
To my knowledge, the best way to gain this height is by using plywood joined with butt blocks (on ends to achieve 12ft length). Or, instead of a single 12in wide board for each side, use 2 8in wide boards butted together on edge (or a 10 and a 6 for example). This is how my 15ft skiff was planked. It ads a considerable amount of work and complexity. Vertical frames mast be used to tie the planking together.
I would say 1/4 in is too thin for solid wood. Fewer joints is better for this style of build, as it can be a pain to fit and make tight. I like the lowest plank to be wide enough that the joint with the plank above it is above the waterline. I would not recommend 4in wide boards. Some skiffs are built with planking that narrow, but have to be caulked with cotton (which must be continually maintained)
If you want the boat to last as long as possible, maybe marine ply would be best. I honestly don't know. My understanding is that there is not a major difference between the adhesives used on exterior grade ply and marine. The main thing is that the glue be waterproof. I've been successful using exterior ply on several small boats (just painted regularly). I know they won't last forever. Coat with epoxy, and/or fiberglass tape the seams, and exterior plywood will probably last a lifetime.
Wow! Fantastic build. I’m very impressed by your skills. The Sharpie book is a great resource along with Chappell. They’re in my library too. Looking forward to seeing you sail your fleet, Captain. What’s the length? Don’t think I caught that. Well done. Cheers.
Thank you. The fleet probably measures100ft of hull if you include Kayaks and the Boston Whaler haha. I have too many boats.
Do you think it could work on coast water?
I’m planning on building this with my father in law and our biggest question is regarding the actual sail rig. We aren’t sure you set that up and was wondering if you could give us some guidance.
This video should help: ruclips.net/video/5Cbj1CNOqc0/видео.html
Detailed plans for this boat will be available to purchase in the very near future. Plans will include CAD drawings, step by step instructions, and the necessary dimensions/angles. They are almost finished, and should be available sometime in December.
@ thank you! And when you do we will definitely be taking a look.
if you can tell the sawmill what size boards you want they may be able to get you some cypress around here occasionally
Mike
It's available occasionally. To me, it's not worth shelling out the cash for small and experimental builds like this. For the right build, I would love cypress.
im hoping to try my hand at using your method to make a boat this winter. what angle did u use on the steam
Hey CR, sorry for a comment on the year old video...planning a build like this very soon. Did you use the PL to glue up the Stern boards as well? Along with some clamps I assume before cutting. Thank you sir. I'm going to ware a hole in the internet watching this video over and over again.
Not a problem at all. The videos don't expire, and neither do the comments!
I actually used Titan Tibond to edge glue the transom stock. (I think Tibond 2. Whichever is waterproof.) It's also a good idea to alternate the grain on the upper and lower boards. Look at the half circle (partial sections of tree rings) of the end grain, and set them facing opposite directions. Yes, big clamps! Glue and Clamp overnight. Wipe any excess glue thoroughly while wet. It's a pain to sand when it dries.
I'm seriously wanting to get some plans out for this skiff, but it's going to be awhile. It's a big undertaking, and I'm busy enough as it is. Good luck to you!
So after a year or more, how is the 1/4 ply working out? Ive heard of people pokin holes in their PDRacers that werent glassed
GREAT WORK, Mate!!
Have you made the sail also by yourself?
I've done some sewing of sails, but not this one. It was purchased from Chesapeake Light Craft a while back for an old project. I may end up sewing a new lug sail for this boat. I think it would benefit from just a tiny bit more sail area.
@@cumberlandrover I really like this boat and am thinking about a copy for our calmer inland NC waters. Was the reasoning for the Lug sail shape because of your experience with them? I'm using a LOM for a Goose currently and think that sail would look nice on your Sharpie.
SO - IN THE END - what are the finished dimensions of this small sharpie ? 12x4 ft ? What the width of the bottom ? Thanks in advance from Italy
In my state, staying under 12' means that I don't have to register the boat (according to gov website). That would be ideal as a project for me and my son.
The ripple you mention is the planer marks? if you want to get rid of them just use a finely set smoothing handplane.
What's the area of your lug sail? I'd love to build a boat like this.
I want one!
I had exactly the same criteria, but I wanted the boat to be really light, so I'm building a Storer Viola sailing canoe.
Very nice! I'd like to eventually experiment with a canoe or pirogue build. Personally, I prefer the initial stability of a boat.
Yes, I have bigger boats for that, but, if I end up one day with the Viola as my only boat, I may have to explore "training wheels"..@@cumberlandrover
whered you get that sail
Intuition will tell the thinking mind where to look next.
16:43 I would prefer not to screw up this step
The ripple marks "pitch marks" are from the timber machining through the planer. Poor timber machining practice. Feed speed, blunt/over jointed knives etc
That flat bottom is easy building, but you are not exactly afraid to glue and screw a boat. Then can't you saw some triangle shaped beams to support a shallow V bottom? The boat would sail better, and how much support does that V need?
...I have discovered a new ADHD fixation...
My Pepere would call this a chaloupe. Pronounced "Shall-oh" in our Acadian French.
You can still see these little knock around boats all over French New Brunswick
Very interesting! I will have to look into that type.
Hi, I visited your RUclips channel. That's all good but your video doesn't get that many views because your video isn't SEO optimized.
I'm not familiar with that term, what does it mean?
can you share any contact option then i will explain all of.@@chrisgardner3606
@@chrisgardner3606search engine optimised.
"SEO Optimised" is a dumb way to say it as it says optimised twice
@@chrisgardner3606 search engine optimization. Basically he wants money to make this video easier for people to find by using hash tags, keywords, and submitting links to the different search engines, each with its own price most likely, and when it doesn't work to increase the traffic substantially enough to justify the hundreds spent on it, he will basically defend his actions by saying something like "I never promised anything more than an X % increase in views," or another loophole he devised to get out of refunding the exorbitant amount he charges.