Just came across your video and would love to see the changes you have mentioned. I would also love to see a video of you using it on a bike. I have a dirt bike and a 4 wheeler that I am struggling to get running correctly and would love to make something like your setup to help me better adjust the carburetors.
We have actually updated the design a little bit by removing the rear "coiled" tube and adding a small length of tube and a check valve. It makes things a little more compact. Next we will probably make the whole setup portable. We have already tested with a 12v and 18v Rigid battery and it works fine. Just remember that in order for this to work you need to keep air out of the exhaust clamp, so get the copper tube as deep into the exhaust as possible. Fortunately even after a few minutes of running the whole setup doesn't get very hot.
Bikes are put away for the season but when we pull them back out I'll try and grab a video. Float level is pretty simple, just remove the drain plug in the bottom of the bowl and push in the rubber stopper. Then either hold the sight tube up the side of the carburetor bowl or tie it lightly in place. For the AFR we put the 1/4 copper tube as far into the exhaust as possible and then fire up the bikes. This allows use to see the AFR as we adjust idle and throttle on the bike. The challenge with dirt bikes is the way single cylinder bike "suck / blow" through the exhaust. If the AFR is out in the open the exhaust gas moves back and forth across the wideband O2 sensor. Therefor you need a rig and tubing like we have built. The smaller AFR just clamps on the tailpipe of a car.
Great video and I like the float level tool also. Can you tell me what software you’re using to read the O2 sensor? I’d like to take some readings on my bike while riding. An AEM wide band sensor is almost $200 and the software to read it is way too expensive for a DIYer. Thanks
We have a couple of the Innovate MTX-L wideband sensors that come with data logging software. We use them to tune and test all kinds of things including at the exhaust pipe on cars. It gives you a good idea of what is happening.
Just came across your video and would love to see the changes you have mentioned. I would also love to see a video of you using it on a bike. I have a dirt bike and a 4 wheeler that I am struggling to get running correctly and would love to make something like your setup to help me better adjust the carburetors.
We have actually updated the design a little bit by removing the rear "coiled" tube and adding a small length of tube and a check valve. It makes things a little more compact. Next we will probably make the whole setup portable. We have already tested with a 12v and 18v Rigid battery and it works fine. Just remember that in order for this to work you need to keep air out of the exhaust clamp, so get the copper tube as deep into the exhaust as possible. Fortunately even after a few minutes of running the whole setup doesn't get very hot.
Would love to see a video of it running data
Great vid! Would love to see a video of you actually measuring both float level and Afr on a bike.
Bikes are put away for the season but when we pull them back out I'll try and grab a video. Float level is pretty simple, just remove the drain plug in the bottom of the bowl and push in the rubber stopper. Then either hold the sight tube up the side of the carburetor bowl or tie it lightly in place.
For the AFR we put the 1/4 copper tube as far into the exhaust as possible and then fire up the bikes. This allows use to see the AFR as we adjust idle and throttle on the bike. The challenge with dirt bikes is the way single cylinder bike "suck / blow" through the exhaust. If the AFR is out in the open the exhaust gas moves back and forth across the wideband O2 sensor. Therefor you need a rig and tubing like we have built.
The smaller AFR just clamps on the tailpipe of a car.
Great video and I like the float level tool also. Can you tell me what software you’re using to read the O2 sensor? I’d like to take some readings on my bike while riding. An AEM wide band sensor is almost $200 and the software to read it is way too expensive for a DIYer. Thanks
We have a couple of the Innovate MTX-L wideband sensors that come with data logging software. We use them to tune and test all kinds of things including at the exhaust pipe on cars. It gives you a good idea of what is happening.