Glue two pieces of veneer together to create a laminate and then sand the veneer down to the height you need. Should work great and you can get it to any thickness you need.
Thanks for all your videos and for taking some time to discuss the cabinets and tables. I was wondering if you might consider doing a video or 2 on the chairs and stools that were made by Singer and the other companies? I was lucky enough to get a matching stool and chair for a couple of my Singer cabinets. Interestingly (to me anyway) is the fact that even though they were made at least 25 years apart, the removable cushions are the same size.
Working on an almost identical table now that the SHELLAC was dissolved off some surfaces. (I only knew because ammonia was the only thing that stripped it) Then I've used steel wool and Restor a Finish walnut. The color was dark like the drawer front, but now has come out a beautiful match to the rest if the table. Trying to get a shine now. Restor a Shine product may take many coats to get the original polished look. Howard says NOT to use Poly over their products... ideas?
Hey there. FYI, the Restore-A-Finish is meant to even out the coloring and hide some scratches which is one of the things it excells at. But NOTE: You must remove any excess of this liquid after application and allow it to dry. Once you complete that step, I would follow up with either shellac or something like Howards Feed N Wax or another polish for shine. RestoreAFinish is not a polish and should not be left on. Hope that helps.
Thank you for this video series. I have an original Kenmore table which could really use a treatment with Restore and Finish. I also have a 100 year old hall table which needs both some veneer repair and Restore and Finish, so your experience is very helpful. I would ask a question though, and please don't be offended as I don't mean any disrespect. But wouldn't it have been much easier and maybe just a tad better aesthetically if you had squared off a piece for the larger repair? A small t-square ruler might have made it very easy to cut away the old veneer first, gently removing it starting at the lifted area then cutting a matching width piece from the new veneer. I am NOT any kind of expert in this; I've never even done it before. It just seems logical. And if you don't have a t-square, ask a quilter to borrow a straight ruler and a rolling cutter with an old, used blade - they are very accurate tools and that's what I plan to use. (Yep, I am a quilter, and a sewist, and a lover of vintage sewing machines, particularly Kenmores). Thanks again for teaching us about Restore and Finish - that stuff is great!
Hi, thank you so much for your videos. I'm learning so much! I'm attempting to restore a vintage Singer sewing table but I'm nervous about cleaning it because I don't want to damage the wood. It has some sticky dark grime on a big portion of one side and some black paint spots on top and I don't know how to go about removing them. Would a product like LA's Totally Awesome be ok to remove the sticky stuff? I know you don't strip or refinish furniture, but would you recommend using paint stripper on the paint spots? Or just sanding the wood down? The original varnish is already pretty damaged, but I'd like to preserve it if it's possible. I'd really appreciate your help. Thanks again!
Update: I cleaned the oily grime off with a mixture of white vinegar, Dawn, and a bit of water and got the paint circles off with denatured alcohol! I'm going to try some Howard orange oil next to do some more cleaning and then use their Restor-a-Finish with 0000 steel wool because I want to avoid stripping the top if I can...
thanks this was very useful. And the old machines are a lot better for sewing.
Yes they are!
Glue two pieces of veneer together to create a laminate and then sand the veneer down to the height you need. Should work great and you can get it to any thickness you need.
Thanks for all your videos and for taking some time to discuss the cabinets and tables. I was wondering if you might consider doing a video or 2 on the chairs and stools that were made by Singer and the other companies? I was lucky enough to get a matching stool and chair for a couple of my Singer cabinets. Interestingly (to me anyway) is the fact that even though they were made at least 25 years apart, the removable cushions are the same size.
What a great finish going to try with my cabinet , thanks for all your input and knowledge on this subject.
Good job on fixing the table!
It turned out beautiful.
I've learned a lot, many thanks.
Glad to hear it!
Working on an almost identical table now that the SHELLAC was dissolved off some surfaces. (I only knew because ammonia was the only thing that stripped it) Then I've used steel wool and Restor a Finish walnut. The color was dark like the drawer front, but now has come out a beautiful match to the rest if the table. Trying to get a shine now. Restor a Shine product may take many coats to get the original polished look. Howard says NOT to use Poly over their products... ideas?
Hey there. FYI, the Restore-A-Finish is meant to even out the coloring and hide some scratches which is one of the things it excells at. But NOTE: You must remove any excess of this liquid after application and allow it to dry. Once you complete that step, I would follow up with either shellac or something like Howards Feed N Wax or another polish for shine. RestoreAFinish is not a polish and should not be left on. Hope that helps.
Beautiful job!
Thank you for this video series. I have an original Kenmore table which could really use a treatment with Restore and Finish. I also have a 100 year old hall table which needs both some veneer repair and Restore and Finish, so your experience is very helpful. I would ask a question though, and please don't be offended as I don't mean any disrespect. But wouldn't it have been much easier and maybe just a tad better aesthetically if you had squared off a piece for the larger repair? A small t-square ruler might have made it very easy to cut away the old veneer first, gently removing it starting at the lifted area then cutting a matching width piece from the new veneer. I am NOT any kind of expert in this; I've never even done it before. It just seems logical. And if you don't have a t-square, ask a quilter to borrow a straight ruler and a rolling cutter with an old, used blade - they are very accurate tools and that's what I plan to use. (Yep, I am a quilter, and a sewist, and a lover of vintage sewing machines, particularly Kenmores).
Thanks again for teaching us about Restore and Finish - that stuff is great!
Hi, thank you so much for your videos. I'm learning so much! I'm attempting to restore a vintage Singer sewing table but I'm nervous about cleaning it because I don't want to damage the wood. It has some sticky dark grime on a big portion of one side and some black paint spots on top and I don't know how to go about removing them. Would a product like LA's Totally Awesome be ok to remove the sticky stuff? I know you don't strip or refinish furniture, but would you recommend using paint stripper on the paint spots? Or just sanding the wood down? The original varnish is already pretty damaged, but I'd like to preserve it if it's possible. I'd really appreciate your help. Thanks again!
Update: I cleaned the oily grime off with a mixture of white vinegar, Dawn, and a bit of water and got the paint circles off with denatured alcohol! I'm going to try some Howard orange oil next to do some more cleaning and then use their Restor-a-Finish with 0000 steel wool because I want to avoid stripping the top if I can...
@@warclassics Vinegar/denatured confirms it was shellac I think! How did it come out?
It's to bad your veneer didn't match better, I think the original was walnut.
Yes i agree. Test colour before applying.