Nice video, but don't you have to test the other connections according to your wiring diagram? My diagram shows multiple wires that should show closed when set on different cycle. My timer is bad but the red and black give tone. Some of the others do not. Replaced it and everything was fine.
Thanks Jim, is there a way to use a multimeter to test if the timer is causing the dryer to sometimes stop midcycle? I also wonder if you've ever tried to take apart a timer to clean the contacts. My commercial Amana ALE643RBW (looks identical to a Speed Queen inside) is from 2001. I've tried it on automatic dry and timed dry, it does the same thing. I'm able to immediately restart the dryer after it shuts down (after opening and closing the door just to check inside), so I doubt it's the overheat protection switch in the motor but correct me if I'm wrong. I'm going to replace the door switch and the latch mechanism, just because those items are so cheap. I've had it apart a few years ago and cleaned the lint out of the entire machine and motor and to replace the rollers and belt. Last night the thermostat and limit switches (checked on an electric pancake griddle ON/OFF cycle tested OK) and heating element tested 10 Ohms OK too. Thanks!
@@tubejim101 The dryer always stops when the timer stops. The trouble occurs on both the time dry and auto dry. Thank you! Say I did see some videos online about how to take apart a generic Whirlpool timer to clean and re-bend the contactors, mine seems to have different timer than those (a Maytag style) with different spade terminals and even a resistor attached.
@@maubunky1 It feels like a power issue. The timer, tends not to stop the dryer motor. You could try switching the black and red leads on your power cord, and see if the motor keeps running. Do you have a 4 or 3 wire setup? Don't mess around with the power, unless you know what your doing. I'll see if I have a video of how I test the motor with 120vac. Don't do what I do, it just how I do it.
I have a dryer just like yours and it’s not starting. It was running and then it’s made a frying sound and quit I don’t see anything burnt inside. I changed the plug because the end was burnt due to lent got underneath it and shorted it out . Was what I was thinking because it’s the only thing I can see burnt.
Hey Jim great video! I have a question my timer seems to not be advancing in auto dry I’ve checked continuity on the cycling thermostat and therm fuse both seem to be ok. Timer works fine in timed dry but not in auto dry. I did the test in this video and got continuity on normal dry but stopped when it got to less dry/ high heat. Do u think it’s a bad timer? Thanks in advance
@@tubejim101 Ok that makes sense. It being stuck closed and that’s why I’m gettin continuity. My wife said the dryer was super hot when she realized the timer wasn’t advancing so I think you’re right. I don’t think heating is the issue probably just thermostat wore out.
@@Rudy8558 That is how I check the cycling thermostat. I put it on auto dry, and see if it moves. The timer advances when it opens, and stops when it closes.
@@tubejim101 I have a gas dryer so I assume I’d just watch for blue flame? I found a set of therm fuse and cycling therm on Amazon for like $11 so it’ll be here tomorrow and I’ll throw it in. Thanks so much for your help man I really appreciate you. You’re the man!
On Auto Dry, (which is what we normally use) ... My timer moves along fine but when it gets to the * star and clicks, the heat stays on until the timer turns of and dryer stops. Also.. it gets done drying, the timer clicks to the off position but keeps ticking and it sound like there is still current flowing through. Even when I turn it to off, it continues clicking. Also, the heat is set to low but is HOT HOT. And when the knob gets to the point where it should be cooling down (at the *) it stays scalding hot. Any ideas? Thanks FYI: All lint is clear, I've clean all intakes and removed all accumulated debris and made sure vent to outside is clear.
@@tubejim101 Thanks. I figured it out. It actually was indeed the Heating element. Somehow the wire from the top of the element to the bottom touched the center plate separating the layers. Surprisingly it did not burn it out. I separated it from the plate and now it's working perfectly.
I have an Amana dryer . Timer won’t advance past the cool down and doesn’t even go into cool down. I’ve replaced the timer and all 4 parts on the back of the dryer except the heating element and still the same exact issue . What could be the issue. I replaced the timer twice thinking I may have purchased a bad one . Somebody please help. Lol
@@tubejim101 I replaced it ( the cycling thermostat) already. Could I have possibly got a bad one ? I also replaced the regular thermostat, the high limit cut off and the thermal fuse so I don’t think there’s anything else to replace. The timer advance’s on auto and timed to the cool down spot and won’t advance any further but also don’t go into the cool down mode . Gets really Hot if you forget about it, lol
Thanks for this. My dryer has been giving us trouble and you showed how to narrow in the issue super easily!
Very Helpful - appreciate the guidance!
Black and red wires are on the first and third connectors, not on first and second line you said.
Thank you for pointing that out.
Thanks!
Thanks for sharing this video with us.
It's not the 1st & 2nd wire. It's the 1st & 3rd wire. Is where you have your leads.
Great video thanks for the feedback
Is the dryer plugged in when you check the timer 😊
No. Also, never check resistance/continuity with a live circuit. You will damage your meter. If you lucky, it will pop a fuse/beaker first.
Nice video, but don't you have to test the other connections according to your wiring diagram? My diagram shows multiple wires that should show closed when set on different cycle. My timer is bad but the red and black give tone. Some of the others do not. Replaced it and everything was fine.
This is just to make sure your timer can call for heat. Sounds like your timer was not advancing, which was most likely a bad timer drive motor.
Thanks Jim, is there a way to use a multimeter to test if the timer is causing the dryer to sometimes stop midcycle? I also wonder if you've ever tried to take apart a timer to clean the contacts. My commercial Amana ALE643RBW (looks identical to a Speed Queen inside) is from 2001. I've tried it on automatic dry and timed dry, it does the same thing. I'm able to immediately restart the dryer after it shuts down (after opening and closing the door just to check inside), so I doubt it's the overheat protection switch in the motor but correct me if I'm wrong. I'm going to replace the door switch and the latch mechanism, just because those items are so cheap. I've had it apart a few years ago and cleaned the lint out of the entire machine and motor and to replace the rollers and belt. Last night the thermostat and limit switches (checked on an electric pancake griddle ON/OFF cycle tested OK) and heating element tested 10 Ohms OK too. Thanks!
When the timer stops, does the dryer keep going? Does it work fine on time dry, but has trouble one auto settings?
@@tubejim101 The dryer always stops when the timer stops. The trouble occurs on both the time dry and auto dry. Thank you! Say I did see some videos online about how to take apart a generic Whirlpool timer to clean and re-bend the contactors, mine seems to have different timer than those (a Maytag style) with different spade terminals and even a resistor attached.
@@maubunky1 It feels like a power issue. The timer, tends not to stop the dryer motor. You could try switching the black and red leads on your power cord, and see if the motor keeps running. Do you have a 4 or 3 wire setup? Don't mess around with the power, unless you know what your doing. I'll see if I have a video of how I test the motor with 120vac. Don't do what I do, it just how I do it.
@@maubunky1 Here is a video. Will make one, just talking about this. Sometime. ruclips.net/video/00Mhfu-s2IM/видео.html
Don’t you mean the blue and black wire
1 and 3. Red and Black for heating element.
I have the same dryer and timer works but when I push to start it doesn't work. Is it the start button or fuse that I have to replace?
ruclips.net/video/bKd9KMhxK8U/видео.html
I have a dryer just like yours and it’s not starting. It was running and then it’s made a frying sound and quit I don’t see anything burnt inside. I changed the plug because the end was burnt due to lent got underneath it and shorted it out . Was what I was thinking because it’s the only thing I can see burnt.
I tested the timer and like you showed and it worked
Hey Jim great video! I have a question my timer seems to not be advancing in auto dry I’ve checked continuity on the cycling thermostat and therm fuse both seem to be ok. Timer works fine in timed dry but not in auto dry. I did the test in this video and got continuity on normal dry but stopped when it got to less dry/ high heat. Do u think it’s a bad timer? Thanks in advance
Your cycling/operating thermostat is not opening. It is stuck close, or not getting hot enough to open.
@@tubejim101 Ok that makes sense. It being stuck closed and that’s why I’m gettin continuity. My wife said the dryer was super hot when she realized the timer wasn’t advancing so I think you’re right. I don’t think heating is the issue probably just thermostat wore out.
@@Rudy8558 That is how I check the cycling thermostat. I put it on auto dry, and see if it moves. The timer advances when it opens, and stops when it closes.
@@Rudy8558 You can also take the back off, and watch the heating element, to see if it ever shuts off, or just stays on.
@@tubejim101 I have a gas dryer so I assume I’d just watch for blue flame? I found a set of therm fuse and cycling therm on Amazon for like $11 so it’ll be here tomorrow and I’ll throw it in. Thanks so much for your help man I really appreciate you. You’re the man!
Can you put one on how to check on a ge
It is the same. You just have to find the wires that go to the heating element. Make sure you only work on it with it unplugged.
How do you tell if the "knob thing" is working??? motor is not running on mine.
The motor on the timer?
On Auto Dry, (which is what we normally use) ...
My timer moves along fine but when it gets to the * star and clicks, the heat stays on until the timer turns of and dryer stops.
Also.. it gets done drying, the timer clicks to the off position but keeps ticking and it sound like there is still current flowing through.
Even when I turn it to off, it continues clicking.
Also, the heat is set to low but is HOT HOT. And when the knob gets to the point where it should be cooling down (at the *) it stays scalding hot.
Any ideas? Thanks
FYI:
All lint is clear, I've clean all intakes and removed all accumulated debris and made sure vent to outside is clear.
Sounds like the heating element is shorting out.
@@tubejim101 Thanks. I figured it out. It actually was indeed the Heating element. Somehow the wire from the top of the element to the bottom touched the center plate separating the layers. Surprisingly it did not burn it out. I separated it from the plate and now it's working perfectly.
So, plug in the multimeter in A and C??? Why not A and H??
What does H go to?
I have an Amana dryer . Timer won’t advance past the cool down and doesn’t even go into cool down. I’ve replaced the timer and all 4 parts on the back of the dryer except the heating element and still the same exact issue . What could be the issue. I replaced the timer twice thinking I may have purchased a bad one . Somebody please help. Lol
Sounds like the operating thermostat. It only advances when it shuts off power to the heating element. Might be stuck closed.
Next time, if I have time, I will make a video, showing how I test the operating thermostat.
@@tubejim101 I replaced it ( the cycling thermostat) already. Could I have possibly got a bad one ? I also replaced the regular thermostat, the high limit cut off and the thermal fuse so I don’t think there’s anything else to replace. The timer advance’s on auto and timed to the cool down spot and won’t advance any further but also don’t go into the cool down mode . Gets really Hot if you forget about it, lol
@@Ez3Nelson Also, check your heating element, to make sure it is not grounding out.
This test might pickup a shorted element: ruclips.net/video/7jB1RTLFCFc/видео.html
thanks. it was a big help.
What’s the buzzer sound like when it’s done