I was doing some work with NHL lime mortar a few months ago, felt strange because you're not supposed to point it with tools at all. Supposedly it can seal the surface and prevent it from breathing properly. Have to scrape it flush, let it go off a bit and then tap it with the bristles of a brush until you can see the stones in the mix.
Happy New Year! The commons (aka Flettons) are a pressed brick made of granular clay and as such are susceptible to frost, particularly when the face is damaged, this also goes for the LBC facing bricks - Dapple Lights, Tudors, Milton Buffs etc. In the past they were used as more economic facings as in your example. Originally, Fletton Commons from the inter-war years were a creamy coloured brick that was known for its hardness and frost resistance being close to a Class B engineering brick but that changed post-war. Its good to see that you are laying the LBCs frog up as they were intended although too many builders back in the day would lay them frog down ([permitted by LBC for low rise work) to save mortar. I was called in to propose a rectification spec for a 3 storey office block, built on a hill that p****d water in through the walls in torrential rain as the client's own property department had purchased the cheapest bricks (LBCs) and allowed them to be laid frog down to save money. Its also good to see that the abutment will be finished externally with a mastic joint because it will move as you say, and a crumbing mortar joint will look unsightly rather than being of structural/waterproofing concern. Where you have the gable adjacent to the neighbour's fence, I am not so sure that the vertical 'tanking' will do any good as water can enter the cavity lower down below the lower dpc. I have exactly this same condition on my 2 storey garage extension with the neighbour's ground level being above the normal external dpc level. This was resolved by incorporating a cavity tray to shed any incidental moisture within the insulated cavity towards the outside of the building and the brickwork below dpc was with Class B engineering bricks. It works and I have had no sign of any damp issues at all. As an aside, I found the cavity tray was built in the wrong way around that would have shed water into the building. The brickies insisted that the BI had told them to do it that way but when quizzed he sounded embarrassed and denied giving that instruction. Building Inspectors have no contractual involvement on the building and so cannot instruct any works at all unless there is a clear life threatening situation. Anything required by him should be passed to the person in charge of the contract, most good BI know this but some see themselves as boy scouts.
Thank you John! It's a great little milestone to get to, even if at the end of the day it doesn't really mean anything! Also, thank you for watching our videos, we really appreciate it. All the best mate.
Just stumbled across your channel. I'm not a builder just keen diy'er. Love how informative you are and how you find time to reply to most people's comments. If you're ever in Telford/Shropshire let me know I'd love to come watch and learn in person.
Morning Jim, hope you're well mate. Really glad that you're enjoying the videos, hopefully that'll continue! We work all over so when we're up your way I'll give you a shout! Thanks again mate, take care.
@@Mr_A_Builders I like the way you explain the finer points of the job. It educates people like me( will never do it myself but have studied building and bricklaying via youtube since the pandemic started and couldn't play golf 😂)
Wouldn't that be something! It wouldn't change us though!!! Haha!! Happy new year mate, thank you for sticking with us from the very start, we really really appreciate it.
On the topic of bricks, I love those ones in the garden wall behind you at 1:20. Nice and smooth but lots of depth and character. Some similar ones round here.
At the 8:00 mark, there are two reasons why you must either fit a vertical DPC or cut the full cavity. The exterior wall around that door is now an interior wall, an interior is only connected to an exterior wall by wall ties. So firstly, cutting the cavity stops cold bridging which is part of the building regs. Secondly, you maintain the cavity to stop damp tracking across onto the inner leaf.
Hello , hope you're well. There is no "must" around these parts mate, the building inspectors don't ask for it because of the damage that it causes to the building and the absolute nothing positive that it brings. Needless to say if they ask for it then I'll do it but until that silliness reaches us, we're not doing it.
@@Mr_A_Builders I have a 14" stone saw so it cuts fully through the brick so I get a hassle free cut out. When you do your City & Guilds in bricklaying, it's all about clear cavities. I always cut to maintain the full cavity, even 3 course below dpc. You would probably get pulled in Cumbria by Building Control. Top of cavity, used to be closed off by sitting bricks on the top, then because of cold bridging, changed to kingspan. Then because of Grenfell, has to be closed off with loft insulation as kingspan in combustible and the loft insulation stops the chimney effect within the cavity. Building Control in Cumbria can get quite anal, but rightly so in a way.
Yeah mines 14" too (if you pardon the expression) which as you say goes' straight through...if that cut is the corner of the original building which in most cases, like this one, it is then the structural damage that you've just caused is quite significant. All the strength that that corner creates has just been completely undone. That's the reason it's not a requirement here.
@@Mr_A_Builders The corner is fine for strength because it's got a return of a couple of bricks. If the single storey extension had been built at the same time as the house, it would have been built with a cavity. If it had been full height extension, we take the outer leaf off so it's not within the house. Either way, it needed a vertical dpc as a minimum.
Very true, if the extension was built at the same time as the house then the cavity would be throughout...and the walls therefore would be fully bonded together, which is a huge, huge difference. Not knowing that cutting vertically up a corner weakens it is an issue. Thinking that a set of wall starters along the cut replaces that strength is a bigger issue. It's a fundamental misunderstanding of what bonded brickwork does and how it works.
A great channel and thank you for the time and effort to post. I love your attention to detail and desire to get it right. Working in conditions akin to the Somme I admire all of you guys working in less than desirable conditions. Hurry up and get the roof on as maybe that will be the turning point when the weather changes for the better 🌞 Happy New Year to you and the team. Regards Mike
Thank you MOAZE, that's great to hear, thank you. You're right about the roof, as soon as it's on it'll be 25⁰C!!! Happy new year to you and yours. All the best.
That's great to hear G B and thank you for your sub too! If there's anything that you'd like to see or know just let us know. Thanks again, happy new year!
Great video, bringing back memories. How I missed those times, Its not about bodging, rather in the trade you come across a lot of anomalies during the working life of a brickie, the skill is how to get over them! Good video keep them coming.
When I built my extension building control made me cut a full channel up the existing house to form a continuous cavity! It was a complete pain in the backside but sometimes you have to do what they want.
Hello Simon, yes mate you have to do what you've got to do. If the building inspector makes us do it then of course we'll do it, luckily though they don't!
Absolutely. There absolutely must be a moisture break. It is done around windows so why not there. Both my extension and conservatory had continuous cavities. Surely it is part of building regs?
Happy new year, great vids... I enjoy a challenge.. vertical damp! If driving rain soaks the face brick in the corner on original house brickwork to say half way through the brick, the warmth on the inside of the new extension will draw the moisture water through. Once this capillary action starts it is impossible to stop without major works.
Cheers Deano, happy new year to you too. I get the theory...sort of... although why you'd do it to a house that isn't prone to prevailing rain is beyond me, I've seen this been done on a mid terrace! Then there's the huge damage to the strength of the corner that's just been caused. Madness I say, MADNESS!!! Haha! Take care mate.
Only time I'll do it is if I'm bolting a timber wall or post to a brick wall. Feel like if the brick holds any water it could stop the timber from drying out properly.
Happy New Year! Absolutely love your content, well edited, informative easy to watch, and feel your pain when things go against you, you managed to prevail. Keep posting my friend ! 🎉
To be totally honest with you, Tanzania, it's comments like yours that make it all worth while, I mean that! Thank you so much! All the best for the new year.
@@Mr_A_Builders I’m 70 this year retired conrtact plumber and domestic work mainly in the latter year, your work ethic is second to none if you didn’t live so far away, you’d be my first choice for my new garden room extension, stay safe and for decks sake don’t ever change.. your gem in this fecked up world. Total respect. 🍺🍺🍺
Yes i really like the clear info and descriptions. As a Yorkshire stonemason who does a bit of block and brickwork, I don't always find brickie jargon that easy to follow.
Hello Jon, hope you're well. I'm glad that you find what we do easy to follow, I get so tongue tied sometimes I wonder if anyone would be able to make any sense of it! Appreciate the comment mate, take care.
A nice video and some good work, I find it interesting how the building regulations vary around the Country, I built a 40sq m extension to my bungalow a couple of years ago and the council here on the Isle of Wight insisted on vertical DPCs which was a pain to be honest. Also I still had to have a 50 mm cavity as well as the 50mm insulation I wasn't allowed to fill the cavity.
Hello Michael, thank you for your comment. It's strange isn't it. I didn't realise just how much they differ up and down the country until we started this channel and people started commenting on what have to do and we don't, or vice versa. All the best for the new year mate, take care.
How is cutting a dpc in a right pain ? While you’re fixing the wall starters in you cut the channel with a Stihl saw and slot the dpc in . Takes about ten minutes
@@leer798 I still think it;s a pain to do, I have never managed to cut right through a full story of brickwork in ten minutes, however I have always done it as it is a council requirement in most areas.
Been loving the videos mate. Not a builder but you’ve given me a lot of tips on getting this sort of work done in future - hoping to find a firm like yours!
Happy new year to you too Nigel. Glad you like the videos, you've watched nearly all of them haven't you?! Thank you for that! I understand that people have to do this vertical damp but I'm glad we don't have to, for the time being anyway!
The original wall will cause a moisture bridge at the junction When both my conservatory and extension were done a slot was cut in the original brickwork to break the moisture bridge. Surely that is part of building regs.
Nice work mate. Always a debate about the pros/cons on cutting out the cavity. I believe it is necessary and there is no denying when it is not done there is a definite cold bridge. A simple question I'd ask is; if you were building the entire house from scratch would you continue that cavity? Of course you would and that answers it for me! Anyway happy NY mate, looking forward to more videos!
Hello Tiktok, hope you're well mate. I can't argue with the statement that if you were building it from scratch you'd have a cavity, but the corners would be properly bonded and structurally sound. Hoofing a 100mm channel 3000mm+ out of a corner of a house, both sides, doesn't sit right with me. As for the cold bridge... really??? It's that much of a problem that it deems this imperative? I'm not too sure. Saying that though, if I had to do it of course I would but thankfully we don't...yet...
All the best guys. Been waiting for the next episode..Now I know how you tie them into the wall as discussed the other week. That's changed compared to what I remember? ...It's a bit warmer as well.. I bet your client happy to see you back? :
Is a vertical cut in the wall with damp course stuck in it between the starter packs not to stop damp travelling across the wall as the outside wall in the new build is now a inside wall
Hello Ashley, if it was a solid floor then there wouldn't have been any air bricks. Also I would have used the same damp the same way if it would've have been a solid floor.
Hello dominic, hope you're well. The cavity regs haven't changed but the amount of insulation that you have to use has, meaning that you need to put more in and that's across the board, i.e the floor and roof too. The easiest way to do this regarding the cavity is to make it bigger and put all the insulation needed in it. You could keep the 100mm cavity and add the extra insulation to the face of the internal wall, cladding it basically, but I can't see many builders taking that route. Hope that helps?
Happy new year to you too mate. In my experience they all vary so it is what it is. My only advice is to get all of whatever brick you choose from the same place at the same time but even then you're in the lap of the Gods! Sorry that I couldn't have been more help!
i seen another youtuber saying you shouldnt build an external skin out of block unless its going to be rendered or cladded because blocks are not waterproof. whats your opinion on it. i thought solid blocks are more waterproof than a brick? is there actually any issues?
Morning Dale, happy new year to you too. I used to do cavity trays on site but since I left site and started private work the building inspector told me to just do it the way that's shown in the video.
The purpose of the vertical d.p.c against the existing building is to bring it up 1 metre above, F.F.L. It stops rising damp from the existing building crossing into the new build. I see in the Midlands a lot of houses built out of flettons/ commons , i thought if used externally you woul have to render them to stop the ingress of water.
Thank you TozBeats. We used to do it like that on site and when I moved into private work the building inspector told me not to! So now I do it like I shown in the video. Appreciate you watching and commenting mate.
happy new year guys, so you went for fletton or common and not the brick you stated earlier? Bag rub joints, air vents on opposite side are too low if cave in??
Hello Scott, happy new year mate. The brick choice is all explained in the video. One of the vents may be in the firing line but that'll be a maintenance issue for the customer. The others on that run are protected by next doors building, there's nothing to collapse there.
Hello Keith, hope you're well. I've got to get properly clued up on them as I haven't done one as of yet but my basic understanding is that the new regs are all about more insulation rather than the size of the cavity. From now on you'll need 150mm insulation overall and not 100mm. I believe that you can choose to have either a 150mm mass filled cavity or 100mm and an insulated plasterboard, depending on which method suits the project that you're on. Don't quote me on that but as it stands that's my understanding of the insulating of the cavities. Take care mate.
Where is the vertical dpc in cavity. Building control wouldn't except that in my area. The structural issues caused by cutting brickwork is countered by the stainless steel fixings creating corner/butress
Hello Katie and John, hope you're well. No I haven't as yet, although now that the regs have changed our next job will be 150mm cavities. Not that the process is any different in any significant way. The only loser is the customer, everything is more expensive and the space that's created is smaller.
@@Mr_A_Builders Hi, great channel, been following for a few months now. I am not in the trade but having an extension later in the year and have been following numerous builders channels to understand better. Is there an alternate way to achieve the same 'U' value that the new regs are striving for but with maintaining a 100mm cavity?. When I was chatting with an architect they suggested that there was an alternate, but I didn't get the detail. As you say, sounds like thew new way takes longer and reduces space. Thanks
Hello, hope you're well. Appreciate you watching our videos. The 100mm cavity hasn't gone, the amount of insulation has increased and you can implement that one of two ways...a bigger cavity and the insulation fills it, or keep the 100mm cavity and insulate the internal wall. The wall thickness is the same both ways. I think that I'll be advising that customers go down the 150mm cavity route but each job will need be to be assessed individually.
@@Mr_A_Builders Thanks for the swift reply, makes sense. For the customer their wall thickness is therefore the same either way, but will come down to builders preference. I have noted my architects plans have gone with the 150mm cavity route. Thanks again.
Always looks good when you're finally out of ground and the walls are flying up. Got to wholeheartedly agree LBC bricks are sh*te! You nailed it with cost, banana bricks and more broke than you can shake a big stick at, a pallet of 390 might only have 300 decent in it. I tend to use the best of the sh*te for 1/2s and cuts. Well done, keep the videos going and Happy New Year.
Building control down in the south are anal about it And to be fair its good practice forms a break To be honest i wouldnt do it without but your job you have your own methods
Hello David, we could debate for hours on the vertical damp issue and I still wouldn't be convinced! The structural damage to the house for the benefit of nothing is something I'll never understand. But saying that me not putting on in isn't my method, it's just that thankfully the building inspectors here don't require it, if they did of course I'll put one on because at the end of the day they are in charge.
How much length does ur labourer get in the thunder box it’s usually 6inch but he’s limping maybe try him on a whs or smaller he obviously can’t take the full 12inch it’s giving him sores an he may tell mommy
You may not think this to be A good idea but when I labourd for my m8 we put up a long marquee tent so when it raind we wouldn't be held up waiting for it to stop 2 it protects the bricks you've layed from the rain a frost's
I'm hearing you, Barry! I've done it once and half way through its first day a gust or wind kindly relocated it three doors down! I said it then and I'll say it again now...never again! Haha!
Common practice to cut out same width of cavity and feed insulation in to stop cold spots and moisture penetration . I have been building for 48 years now retired.
I live in Durham (NE England), Building Control here insist on a vertical damp to restrict damp penetration. Like you, I don't see the point, but they always whinge at you anyway. Love the videos. HNY
Ah that's interesting, I was wondering what part of the country make you do it! You've got to do what you've got to do haven't you. Happy new year mate, take care.
Something I got pulled up some time ago by BC and we had to take it down, standard 7.2 concrete blocks are not fit for purpose and must be rendered.When I checked manufacturers spec he was correct. Face blocks are a different animal, special order and weigh a ton is what should be used might as well use engineerings, hopefully your inspector won't be so attentive 👍
Hello Andy, happy new year mate. Hope you're having a great holiday, it looks ace. Hopefully that kind of building inspector is about as rare as a smoker in Costa Rica!!! The building control company that we use have never pulled us on it before and I've got to be honest I've never done it any other way but it's definitely food for thought for the future. Thank you as always mate, take care.
Happy new year. I must say the music / song had me reaching for the razor blades the singing sounded like a depressed brummie. 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀 Sorry it had to be done.
Haha! Sorry Bill! It's one of the few tunes that we know we can use and not get pulled on it by RUclips! We'll do better next time! What sort of music do you like?
Not sure youve got your technique right for fitting the cavity insulation! Lifting both leaves then stuffing the insulation down the gap risks the insulation rolling up as its pushed down and then not joining up with the batt below it leaving thermal holes . It also leaves snots on top of the batt below risking damp/thermal bridging. Check out the BBA cert for the insulation and it'll likely say raise one leaf, fit insulation, raise second leaf. Where youve joined to the existing house and not cut out the brick to separate the new inner and outer leaves, ends up with a massive thermal bridge. Youve got 4" of solid brick where there should be 4" insulation- you wouldn't close the cavity round a door or window with solid brick, would you.
Hello Paul, hope you're well. There's nothing wrong in the slightest regarding the installation of the insulation. It's not "stuffed" down the cavity, it's applied with care and to maintain the practical efficiency of the building process. There isn't an application method that exists that aid the build up of snots that cause thermal bridging, poorly maintained cavities are the sole cause of that, and that isn't an issue here. In regards to creating a continuous cavity.... good lord! Many people may have been told that that's what needs to be done, but no one can explain how the benefits trump the structural damage you need to make in order to do so. It's a complete nonsense that thankfully isn't enforced by the building inspectors round these parts. Appreciate the comment and you watching mate, all the best.
@@Mr_A_Builders Theres no extra work involved in following the manufacturers insulation install process but it virtually eliminates the chance of edges/corners getting rolled up when the batt is pushed into a completed cavity. Following the directions on the BBA cert is best practice and ensures the best quality. The presence of snots(blobs of mortar) is wholly down to the construction, nowt to do with maintenance. Working above an open cavity is a sure fire way to get snots on top of the insulation at the bottom of the open cavity.
Morning Sonia, do you mean to the left of the door at the bottom? I built the engineering bricks higher to give better protection to that side of the house. Hope that helps. Have a great day.
Hello Richard, hope you're well. It just goes to show just how much goes into a project in order to give the customer what they want. There's just so much to it and that's one of the purposes of our videos, to show everyone everything that needs to be done. Hope you're enjoying them, thank you for watching.
@@Mr_A_Builders i dont lay im afraid, im a mechanical engineer but ive had work done in the past and it was explained to me that way, frogs down mass production but frogs up for critical and structural areas.
Frog up is the way it should be done, there's no argument. However, for reasons that you've just explained when I was an apprentice on site it was always frog down! Whole housing estates built like it!
@@Mr_A_Builders I agree frogs up every time. Dont agree that the vertical damp on the hedge side is over engineered though. You need some form of protection there.
Not a fan of that cavity insulation which i believe is not allowed in the new regs . There is no air gap , the sun will cook the outer skin heating the insulation heating the inner skin , too warm in summer .
@@Mr_A_Builders first hand experience of it on our 2 story extension . The gable end faces south , in summer the external wall heats the internal skin .
Sorry but you’re talking BS regarding the vertical dpc . Should absolutely have one cut in . I have seen damp track along the old brickwork when this hasn’t been done. It’s less likely to happen on a fairly sheltered wall but when it’s exposed to driving rain the brickwork can get soaking and it tracks along easy .
Hello Lee, hope you're well. No need to apologise, we're all entitled to our opinions. I see you've also replied to another comment in this feed regarding the same issue. Before we get into it, when you fit yours, what size cutter do you use?
Hi mate. Again I will apologise because my reply comes across a little arrogant and it wasn’t meant to be . I am genuinely just surprised because you look like you do a really good job and then can’t get your head around the requirement of the vertical dpc . If you think about it, it’s no different to a window reveal, and you wouldn’t not put a dpc or break that with a cavity closer would you?! :) We use a standard size diamond blade in the stihl saw. Slot the dpc in and then hold it in with a low modulus silicone bead. As said on the other reply , it’s take 10 mins extra on top of fixing the wall starters. Makes no sense not to do it imo mate . Also, we stopped using that full full cavity insulation too a few years ago . We had a period where we got about 2 weeks of persistent driving rain, and even though it’s impregnated with a water proofer it only stops ‘damp’ and not water. The rain was soaking the brickwork on exposed walls and soaking the insulation in the process. Damp patches inside. It was happening all over our area , building inspector had been to loads of jobs with issues with it ! We now only use 50mm Pir now. Well , we do until we do a job with the new regs requiring 100mm PIR in the cavity ! Ridiculous! Long winded reply that one 😂
Haha! Cheers man. To be honest they are some of the best I've used when it comes to how tight the tie fits in the runner so I'd recommend them. Have a great day pal.
Happy New Year everyone! Thank you for watching our videos through 2022. We hope that you all have a great and healthy 2023.
Proper bricky we're a dying breed mate . Nice to see someone bedding in they're starter ties for a change 👍
Thank you for that Stevo, appreciate it. Hope you're well and busy mate, take care.
Pointing you internal blockwork shows your professionalism and pride in your work.
Thank you Angela! Happy new year.
I was doing some work with NHL lime mortar a few months ago, felt strange because you're not supposed to point it with tools at all. Supposedly it can seal the surface and prevent it from breathing properly. Have to scrape it flush, let it go off a bit and then tap it with the bristles of a brush until you can see the stones in the mix.
Wish I watched this 20 years ago clever stuff so to all the young listener's take note and be thankful for the hints n tips n hard work
Cheers Wayne, all the best mate, take care.
Happy New Year!
The commons (aka Flettons) are a pressed brick made of granular clay and as such are susceptible to frost, particularly when the face is damaged, this also goes for the LBC facing bricks - Dapple Lights, Tudors, Milton Buffs etc. In the past they were used as more economic facings as in your example. Originally, Fletton Commons from the inter-war years were a creamy coloured brick that was known for its hardness and frost resistance being close to a Class B engineering brick but that changed post-war. Its good to see that you are laying the LBCs frog up as they were intended although too many builders back in the day would lay them frog down ([permitted by LBC for low rise work) to save mortar. I was called in to propose a rectification spec for a 3 storey office block, built on a hill that p****d water in through the walls in torrential rain as the client's own property department had purchased the cheapest bricks (LBCs) and allowed them to be laid frog down to save money. Its also good to see that the abutment will be finished externally with a mastic joint because it will move as you say, and a crumbing mortar joint will look unsightly rather than being of structural/waterproofing concern.
Where you have the gable adjacent to the neighbour's fence, I am not so sure that the vertical 'tanking' will do any good as water can enter the cavity lower down below the lower dpc. I have exactly this same condition on my 2 storey garage extension with the neighbour's ground level being above the normal external dpc level. This was resolved by incorporating a cavity tray to shed any incidental moisture within the insulated cavity towards the outside of the building and the brickwork below dpc was with Class B engineering bricks. It works and I have had no sign of any damp issues at all. As an aside, I found the cavity tray was built in the wrong way around that would have shed water into the building. The brickies insisted that the BI had told them to do it that way but when quizzed he sounded embarrassed and denied giving that instruction. Building Inspectors have no contractual involvement on the building and so cannot instruct any works at all unless there is a clear life threatening situation. Anything required by him should be passed to the person in charge of the contract, most good BI know this but some see themselves as boy scouts.
Congrats on the 10K! Been working my way through your older videos, you are doing a great job!
Thank you John! It's a great little milestone to get to, even if at the end of the day it doesn't really mean anything! Also, thank you for watching our videos, we really appreciate it. All the best mate.
Just stumbled across your channel. I'm not a builder just keen diy'er. Love how informative you are and how you find time to reply to most people's comments. If you're ever in Telford/Shropshire let me know I'd love to come watch and learn in person.
Morning Jim, hope you're well mate. Really glad that you're enjoying the videos, hopefully that'll continue! We work all over so when we're up your way I'll give you a shout! Thanks again mate, take care.
You must have a secretary, or your wife does all the replies for you 🤣
Haha! A secretary?!! That's a great idea....
Great progress boys. I also binge watched the garden room and enjoyed it. Will def enjoy this build. Happy new year to all. 🍾
Doug that's ace! Thank you! Hopefully you'll like these videos too! Either way be sure to let us know! Happy new year!
@@Mr_A_Builders I like the way you explain the finer points of the job. It educates people like me( will never do it myself but have studied building and bricklaying via youtube since the pandemic started and couldn't play golf 😂)
Haha! Hopefully you're making up for lost time now!
A good start to 2023 guys👍
You’ll be on 50k subscribers by the end of the year- just wait and see
Wouldn't that be something! It wouldn't change us though!!! Haha!! Happy new year mate, thank you for sticking with us from the very start, we really really appreciate it.
On the topic of bricks, I love those ones in the garden wall behind you at 1:20. Nice and smooth but lots of depth and character. Some similar ones round here.
At the 8:00 mark, there are two reasons why you must either fit a vertical DPC or cut the full cavity. The exterior wall around that door is now an interior wall, an interior is only connected to an exterior wall by wall ties.
So firstly, cutting the cavity stops cold bridging which is part of the building regs.
Secondly, you maintain the cavity to stop damp tracking across onto the inner leaf.
Hello , hope you're well. There is no "must" around these parts mate, the building inspectors don't ask for it because of the damage that it causes to the building and the absolute nothing positive that it brings. Needless to say if they ask for it then I'll do it but until that silliness reaches us, we're not doing it.
@@Mr_A_Builders I have a 14" stone saw so it cuts fully through the brick so I get a hassle free cut out. When you do your City & Guilds in bricklaying, it's all about clear cavities. I always cut to maintain the full cavity, even 3 course below dpc. You would probably get pulled in Cumbria by Building Control.
Top of cavity, used to be closed off by sitting bricks on the top, then because of cold bridging, changed to kingspan. Then because of Grenfell, has to be closed off with loft insulation as kingspan in combustible and the loft insulation stops the chimney effect within the cavity. Building Control in Cumbria can get quite anal, but rightly so in a way.
Yeah mines 14" too (if you pardon the expression) which as you say goes' straight through...if that cut is the corner of the original building which in most cases, like this one, it is then the structural damage that you've just caused is quite significant. All the strength that that corner creates has just been completely undone. That's the reason it's not a requirement here.
@@Mr_A_Builders The corner is fine for strength because it's got a return of a couple of bricks. If the single storey extension had been built at the same time as the house, it would have been built with a cavity. If it had been full height extension, we take the outer leaf off so it's not within the house. Either way, it needed a vertical dpc as a minimum.
Very true, if the extension was built at the same time as the house then the cavity would be throughout...and the walls therefore would be fully bonded together, which is a huge, huge difference. Not knowing that cutting vertically up a corner weakens it is an issue. Thinking that a set of wall starters along the cut replaces that strength is a bigger issue. It's a fundamental misunderstanding of what bonded brickwork does and how it works.
A great channel and thank you for the time and effort to post. I love your attention to detail and desire to get it right. Working in conditions akin to the Somme I admire all of you guys working in less than desirable conditions. Hurry up and get the roof on as maybe that will be the turning point when the weather changes for the better 🌞 Happy New Year to you and the team. Regards Mike
Thank you MOAZE, that's great to hear, thank you. You're right about the roof, as soon as it's on it'll be 25⁰C!!! Happy new year to you and yours. All the best.
Amazed every time I watch...have a good year 👍🏴
Haha! In a good way??!!! All the best Ali, happy new year.
Enjoying this series of videos. I binge watched the ‘Garden Room’ vids a couple of days ago. 👍🏻 Happy New year to you all 🍻
Thank you Jimmy, that's ace that you've done that. Glad you're enjoying them, hopefully that'll continue! Take care.
New subscriber here. What a brilliant channel. Am learning so much and it's fantastic to watch a skilled tradesman work!
That's great to hear G B and thank you for your sub too! If there's anything that you'd like to see or know just let us know. Thanks again, happy new year!
Great video, bringing back memories. How I missed those times, Its not about bodging, rather in the trade you come across a lot of anomalies during the working life of a brickie, the skill is how to get over them! Good video keep them coming.
Thank you Jon, appreciate that mate. Hopefully you'll enjoy our other videos too. Take care.
When I built my extension building control made me cut a full channel up the existing house to form a continuous cavity! It was a complete pain in the backside but sometimes you have to do what they want.
Hello Simon, yes mate you have to do what you've got to do. If the building inspector makes us do it then of course we'll do it, luckily though they don't!
Always cut a dpc In minimum
Absolutely. There absolutely must be a moisture break. It is done around windows so why not there. Both my extension and conservatory had continuous cavities. Surely it is part of building regs?
@@Mr_A_BuildersThen you get called back when damp patches occur on the inside walls. Not doing it is penny pinching and asking for it
Happy new year, great vids... I enjoy a challenge.. vertical damp! If driving rain soaks the face brick in the corner on original house brickwork to say half way through the brick, the warmth on the inside of the new extension will draw the moisture water through. Once this capillary action starts it is impossible to stop without major works.
Cheers Deano, happy new year to you too. I get the theory...sort of... although why you'd do it to a house that isn't prone to prevailing rain is beyond me, I've seen this been done on a mid terrace! Then there's the huge damage to the strength of the corner that's just been caused. Madness I say, MADNESS!!! Haha! Take care mate.
The theory is correct but never seen it happen in 50 years.
@@Mr_A_Builders challenge failed then 😣 madness! 🤯 🤣🤣🤣
Haha! It was a valiant effort, Deano! You should hold your head up high!
Only time I'll do it is if I'm bolting a timber wall or post to a brick wall. Feel like if the brick holds any water it could stop the timber from drying out properly.
Happy New Year! Absolutely love your content, well edited, informative easy to watch, and feel your pain when things go against you, you managed to prevail. Keep posting my friend ! 🎉
To be totally honest with you, Tanzania, it's comments like yours that make it all worth while, I mean that! Thank you so much! All the best for the new year.
@@Mr_A_Builders I’m 70 this year retired conrtact plumber and domestic work mainly in the latter year, your work ethic is second to none if you didn’t live so far away, you’d be my first choice for my new garden room extension, stay safe and for decks sake don’t ever change.. your gem in this fecked up world. Total respect. 🍺🍺🍺
Again, thank you Tazmania! I hope your garden project goes well and you continue to enjoy your retirement. Take care.
Yes i really like the clear info and descriptions. As a Yorkshire stonemason who does a bit of block and brickwork, I don't always find brickie jargon that easy to follow.
Hello Jon, hope you're well. I'm glad that you find what we do easy to follow, I get so tongue tied sometimes I wonder if anyone would be able to make any sense of it! Appreciate the comment mate, take care.
A nice video and some good work, I find it interesting how the building regulations vary around the Country, I built a 40sq m extension to my bungalow a couple of years ago and the council here on the Isle of Wight insisted on vertical DPCs which was a pain to be honest. Also I still had to have a 50 mm cavity as well as the 50mm insulation I wasn't allowed to fill the cavity.
Hello Michael, thank you for your comment. It's strange isn't it. I didn't realise just how much they differ up and down the country until we started this channel and people started commenting on what have to do and we don't, or vice versa. All the best for the new year mate, take care.
How is cutting a dpc in a right pain ? While you’re fixing the wall starters in you cut the channel with a Stihl saw and slot the dpc in . Takes about ten minutes
@@leer798 I still think it;s a pain to do, I have never managed to cut right through a full story of brickwork in ten minutes, however I have always done it as it is a council requirement in most areas.
It's as.much of a pain as it is unnecessary, Michael! Hope you're well mate.
Been loving the videos mate. Not a builder but you’ve given me a lot of tips on getting this sort of work done in future - hoping to find a firm like yours!
That's great to hear, Anthony. Thank you! Where are you based?
@@Mr_A_Builders London unfortunately!
Ah! Bugger! Hope everything goes well mate.
Happy New year to you and yours it's been a pleasure watching your journey 😊 you have helped us mortals loads 😊 😀
Thank you Tom, it's great to hear that you're enjoying the videos and finding them useful. All the best for the new year, Tom. Take care.
Happy new year from the south of England we have to put in vertical damp all the time love the videos
Happy new year to you too Nigel. Glad you like the videos, you've watched nearly all of them haven't you?! Thank you for that! I understand that people have to do this vertical damp but I'm glad we don't have to, for the time being anyway!
@@Mr_A_Builders Yes nearly all of them getting through them thou every day is a school day even thou i am 65 never to old to learn something new
Fair play Nigel! Feel free to call us on anything that we get wrong or could do differently because as you say, every day is a school day!
Excellent work what an awesome channel my friend 💯💯💯💯
Thank you Martin! Really appreciate that mate!
Nice update and I’m with you on the pointing of internal block work. Happy New year to you guys!
Haha! I just can't not point it! Happy new year Colin, all the best mate.
Great videos, thank you very much..
No worries man! Glad you enjoy them. Take care.
Happy new year to all.
An exellent job,well done sir
Thank you Stephen. Happy new year to you too. All the best.
Brilliant video...very informative...Happy new year to you all and thanks
It's our pleasure Del, thank you for that and for all your support mate. Happy New year, take care.
Straight on it love it 👌
Cheers Wayne. All the best for the new year mate.
Thanks buddy appreciate that you enjoy it mate 👍
Great video - happy new year!
Thank you Charles! And to you mate, take care.
Lovin it, great video as always lads. Happy new year
Thank you Logan, for this and all your support over 2022. Happy new year mate.
Brilliant video as always Mr A, happy new year to you and your gang 👍
Thank you Mello, really appreciate you saying that. Happy new year mate. Take care.
Thank you so much, brilliant tips and explanation. 👍👍👍👍
No worries! Glad you found it useful. Take care.
The original wall will cause a moisture bridge at the junction When both my conservatory and extension were done a slot was cut in the original brickwork to break the moisture bridge. Surely that is part of building regs.
Happy new year, I learned so much from you
That's nice to hear John, thank you! Happy new year.
Nice work mate.
Always a debate about the pros/cons on cutting out the cavity. I believe it is necessary and there is no denying when it is not done there is a definite cold bridge.
A simple question I'd ask is; if you were building the entire house from scratch would you continue that cavity? Of course you would and that answers it for me!
Anyway happy NY mate, looking forward to more videos!
Hello Tiktok, hope you're well mate. I can't argue with the statement that if you were building it from scratch you'd have a cavity, but the corners would be properly bonded and structurally sound. Hoofing a 100mm channel 3000mm+ out of a corner of a house, both sides, doesn't sit right with me. As for the cold bridge... really??? It's that much of a problem that it deems this imperative? I'm not too sure. Saying that though, if I had to do it of course I would but thankfully we don't...yet...
@@Mr_A_Builders no need for a full cavity, stihl saw a cut central, breaks the bridge. Also provides a gap for a vertical dpc to go in.
That's what I always do. Quick and easy way to keep the inspectors happy.
All the best guys. Been waiting for the next episode..Now I know how you tie them into the wall as discussed the other week. That's changed compared to what I remember? ...It's a bit warmer as well.. I bet your client happy to see you back? :
Hello Steve, hope you're well mate. Yes, a lot warmer than what it was! I think we're as glad as the client to be back! All the best!
Is a vertical cut in the wall with damp course stuck in it between the starter packs not to stop damp travelling across the wall as the outside wall in the new build is now a inside wall
That's right, Shane. Never seen the need for one put in certain parts of the country the building inspectors are insistent on them.
@@Mr_A_Builders ok keep up the good work I always find different bricklayers methods and ways interesting 👍
Interested to hear more about the new regs and how that will affect your work.
Do damp tray to the external off your first course block over air bricks and it been a solid floor?
Hello Ashley, if it was a solid floor then there wouldn't have been any air bricks. Also I would have used the same damp the same way if it would've have been a solid floor.
Just curious with the beam & block floor is it just normal insulation used on top and a screed over?
Hello Austin, yes just normal insulation and screed, nothing special or different about it at all. Appreciate the question mate, take care.
What are the new regs then regarding cavity?
Hello dominic, hope you're well. The cavity regs haven't changed but the amount of insulation that you have to use has, meaning that you need to put more in and that's across the board, i.e the floor and roof too. The easiest way to do this regarding the cavity is to make it bigger and put all the insulation needed in it. You could keep the 100mm cavity and add the extra insulation to the face of the internal wall, cladding it basically, but I can't see many builders taking that route. Hope that helps?
HNY. Is there a particular brand of bricks that you find to be more consistent in size for facing work
Happy new year to you too mate. In my experience they all vary so it is what it is. My only advice is to get all of whatever brick you choose from the same place at the same time but even then you're in the lap of the Gods! Sorry that I couldn't have been more help!
Another great video Happy New year
And to you Paul, thank you.
i seen another youtuber saying you shouldnt build an external skin out of block unless its going to be rendered or cladded because blocks are not waterproof. whats your opinion on it. i thought solid blocks are more waterproof than a brick? is there actually any issues?
Happy new year 🎉
How come no gavity tray and weaps ? Bet your glad your out the ground
Morning Dale, happy new year to you too. I used to do cavity trays on site but since I left site and started private work the building inspector told me to just do it the way that's shown in the video.
In Northampton, down the road from you building inspector make us put them in on every extension!
The purpose of the vertical d.p.c against the existing building is to bring it up 1 metre above, F.F.L. It stops rising damp from the existing building crossing into the new build.
I see in the Midlands a lot of houses built out of flettons/ commons , i thought if used externally you woul have to render them to stop the ingress of water.
How does leaving the block work back work with the cavity closers ??
They just nail in as normal mate, on a slight angle, granted but who cares about that?!!
Is there supposed to be dpc that laps up from the airbrick onto the first course of block? Love the content 👍🏾
Thank you TozBeats. We used to do it like that on site and when I moved into private work the building inspector told me not to! So now I do it like I shown in the video. Appreciate you watching and commenting mate.
happy new year guys, so you went for fletton or common and not the brick you stated earlier? Bag rub joints, air vents on opposite side are too low if cave in??
Hello Scott, happy new year mate. The brick choice is all explained in the video. One of the vents may be in the firing line but that'll be a maintenance issue for the customer. The others on that run are protected by next doors building, there's nothing to collapse there.
how come you dont fill the cavity with concrete below ground level?
Nice job. What are the new regs for cavities?
Hello Keith, hope you're well. I've got to get properly clued up on them as I haven't done one as of yet but my basic understanding is that the new regs are all about more insulation rather than the size of the cavity. From now on you'll need 150mm insulation overall and not 100mm. I believe that you can choose to have either a 150mm mass filled cavity or 100mm and an insulated plasterboard, depending on which method suits the project that you're on. Don't quote me on that but as it stands that's my understanding of the insulating of the cavities. Take care mate.
Where is the vertical dpc in cavity. Building control wouldn't except that in my area. The structural issues caused by cutting brickwork is countered by the stainless steel fixings creating corner/butress
Hello David, as mentioned in the video we're not asked to do it in this part of the country. Thank you for watching.
I get lowering door thresholds but do you then lower windows 75mm to match head heights?
Not sure what you mean there mate.
great vid
quick question have you ever had to build a 150mm cavity? or only 100mm?
Hello Katie and John, hope you're well. No I haven't as yet, although now that the regs have changed our next job will be 150mm cavities. Not that the process is any different in any significant way. The only loser is the customer, everything is more expensive and the space that's created is smaller.
@@Mr_A_Builders Hi, great channel, been following for a few months now. I am not in the trade but having an extension later in the year and have been following numerous builders channels to understand better. Is there an alternate way to achieve the same 'U' value that the new regs are striving for but with maintaining a 100mm cavity?. When I was chatting with an architect they suggested that there was an alternate, but I didn't get the detail. As you say, sounds like thew new way takes longer and reduces space. Thanks
Hello, hope you're well. Appreciate you watching our videos. The 100mm cavity hasn't gone, the amount of insulation has increased and you can implement that one of two ways...a bigger cavity and the insulation fills it, or keep the 100mm cavity and insulate the internal wall. The wall thickness is the same both ways. I think that I'll be advising that customers go down the 150mm cavity route but each job will need be to be assessed individually.
@@Mr_A_Builders Thanks for the swift reply, makes sense. For the customer their wall thickness is therefore the same either way, but will come down to builders preference. I have noted my architects plans have gone with the 150mm cavity route. Thanks again.
No worries, any other questions please just ask. Good luck with the build.
Happy new year you not out a vertical damp the existing brickwork can carry the damp through to the new build
Hello mate, as explained in the video we don't have to do that here plus it's a complete nonsense! Thanks for watching!
@@Mr_A_Builders alot of things they ask for are nonsense to be honest lol
Haha!!!
Always looks good when you're finally out of ground and the walls are flying up. Got to wholeheartedly agree LBC bricks are sh*te! You nailed it with cost, banana bricks and more broke than you can shake a big stick at, a pallet of 390 might only have 300 decent in it. I tend to use the best of the sh*te for 1/2s and cuts. Well done, keep the videos going and Happy New Year.
Couldn't agree more Paul! It's hard to believe that they're that bad. Glad you're enjoying the videos mate, appreciate it. Happy new year!
No vertical dpc in centre of cavity where wall starters are ????
Hello David, hope you're well. That's all covered within the video. Have a great evening.
Building control down in the south are anal about it
And to be fair its good practice forms a break
To be honest i wouldnt do it without but your job you have your own methods
Hello David, we could debate for hours on the vertical damp issue and I still wouldn't be convinced! The structural damage to the house for the benefit of nothing is something I'll never understand. But saying that me not putting on in isn't my method, it's just that thankfully the building inspectors here don't require it, if they did of course I'll put one on because at the end of the day they are in charge.
Hi, can you recommend an architect for a loft conversion, I’m in the same area.
Hello Mart. What area are you in exactly please?
Halesowen
Haha! No way! That's where the architect is based! Google EasyPlan and you find it, the fellas name is Ray Gillet, we give all our jobs to him.
Ok thank I’ll give him a call.
How much length does ur labourer get in the thunder box it’s usually 6inch but he’s limping maybe try him on a whs or smaller he obviously can’t take the full 12inch it’s giving him sores an he may tell mommy
You may not think this to be A good idea but when I labourd for my m8 we put up a long marquee tent so when it raind we wouldn't be held up waiting for it to stop 2 it protects the bricks you've layed from the rain a frost's
I'm hearing you, Barry! I've done it once and half way through its first day a gust or wind kindly relocated it three doors down! I said it then and I'll say it again now...never again! Haha!
Brilliant as you don't want to be keeping 3 doors down dry 👍😅
Happy New Year
And to you mate, all the best.
Common practice to cut out same width of cavity and feed insulation in to stop cold spots and moisture penetration . I have been building for 48 years now retired.
Happy new year guys
And to you mate, take care.
I live in Durham (NE England), Building Control here insist on a vertical damp to restrict damp penetration. Like you, I don't see the point, but they always whinge at you anyway. Love the videos. HNY
Ah that's interesting, I was wondering what part of the country make you do it! You've got to do what you've got to do haven't you. Happy new year mate, take care.
Something I got pulled up some time ago by BC and we had to take it down, standard 7.2 concrete blocks are not fit for purpose and must be rendered.When I checked manufacturers spec he was correct. Face blocks are a different animal, special order and weigh a ton is what should be used might as well use engineerings, hopefully your inspector won't be so attentive 👍
Hello Andy, happy new year mate. Hope you're having a great holiday, it looks ace. Hopefully that kind of building inspector is about as rare as a smoker in Costa Rica!!! The building control company that we use have never pulled us on it before and I've got to be honest I've never done it any other way but it's definitely food for thought for the future. Thank you as always mate, take care.
@@Mr_A_Builders No probs 👍, I've got some spec somewhere I could send you ?
That would be great Andy if you could? Our email is mrabuilders21@gmail.com if you come across it. Not to worry if you can't find it. Thank you mate.
I bet you love the day your weatherproof.
We certainly will, James! Hopefully not long now!
Happy new year. I must say the music / song had me reaching for the razor blades the singing sounded like a depressed brummie. 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀 Sorry it had to be done.
Haha! Sorry Bill! It's one of the few tunes that we know we can use and not get pulled on it by RUclips! We'll do better next time! What sort of music do you like?
@@Mr_A_Builders bit of funk goes down well with me lol
Haha! I'll see what I can do!
We have to put a chase up next to the wall starter.! We got pulled on it by building control.! Like you I can’t see the point. HNY…!!
Mate, it's nonsense! But we have to do what we have to do at the end of the day! Happy new year to you too Nigel, all the best.
Not sure youve got your technique right for fitting the cavity insulation! Lifting both leaves then stuffing the insulation down the gap risks the insulation rolling up as its pushed down and then not joining up with the batt below it leaving thermal holes . It also leaves snots on top of the batt below risking damp/thermal bridging. Check out the BBA cert for the insulation and it'll likely say raise one leaf, fit insulation, raise second leaf.
Where youve joined to the existing house and not cut out the brick to separate the new inner and outer leaves, ends up with a massive thermal bridge. Youve got 4" of solid brick where there should be 4" insulation- you wouldn't close the cavity round a door or window with solid brick, would you.
Hello Paul, hope you're well. There's nothing wrong in the slightest regarding the installation of the insulation. It's not "stuffed" down the cavity, it's applied with care and to maintain the practical efficiency of the building process. There isn't an application method that exists that aid the build up of snots that cause thermal bridging, poorly maintained cavities are the sole cause of that, and that isn't an issue here. In regards to creating a continuous cavity.... good lord! Many people may have been told that that's what needs to be done, but no one can explain how the benefits trump the structural damage you need to make in order to do so. It's a complete nonsense that thankfully isn't enforced by the building inspectors round these parts. Appreciate the comment and you watching mate, all the best.
@@Mr_A_Builders Theres no extra work involved in following the manufacturers insulation install process but it virtually eliminates the chance of edges/corners getting rolled up when the batt is pushed into a completed cavity. Following the directions on the BBA cert is best practice and ensures the best quality.
The presence of snots(blobs of mortar) is wholly down to the construction, nowt to do with maintenance. Working above an open cavity is a sure fire way to get snots on top of the insulation at the bottom of the open cavity.
cavity closers should sit flush
We both know there won't be an issue mate.
I must of missed your explanation for the difference in the bricks, I think it looks odd.
Morning Sonia, do you mean to the left of the door at the bottom? I built the engineering bricks higher to give better protection to that side of the house. Hope that helps. Have a great day.
As a non builder it seem crazy it goes on for months and the actual brickying seems to take a few hours.
Hello Richard, hope you're well. It just goes to show just how much goes into a project in order to give the customer what they want. There's just so much to it and that's one of the purposes of our videos, to show everyone everything that needs to be done. Hope you're enjoying them, thank you for watching.
Nice brick work and some very good tips. You’re insulation got pretty soaked .
Cheers Paul. Take care mate.
front is ibstock
Just show why extension work is so much harder than site work 👍
It's a different beast mate!
👍🏻😀
04:10 daft bugger 😂
Haha!
Mate straight up the inside of your brickwork looks better then a lot of bricklayers outside facing brick work
Haha! I'm not sure about that but really appreciate the compliment mate! Cheers man, all the best for the new year.
all cavities should be made co extensive new to existing under building regulations.
We're not asked to do it round here, thankfully.
Pound a brick for a monkey old common shocking ain’t it doesn’t matter who lays them they look pony😂😂happy new year brother 👍
It's unbelievable isn't it! What's more unbelievable is that that was by far the best price I could find! Happy new year to you too fella, take care.
Frogs up, thats a lot of compo isn't it? And yes I know yournot the one mixing it!!!
Mate, loads!!! Do you lay frog down?
@@Mr_A_Builders i dont lay im afraid, im a mechanical engineer but ive had work done in the past and it was explained to me that way, frogs down mass production but frogs up for critical and structural areas.
Frog up is the way it should be done, there's no argument. However, for reasons that you've just explained when I was an apprentice on site it was always frog down! Whole housing estates built like it!
@@Mr_A_Builders I agree frogs up every time. Dont agree that the vertical damp on the hedge side is over engineered though. You need some form of protection there.
Not a fan of that cavity insulation which i believe is not allowed in the new regs . There is no air gap , the sun will cook the outer skin heating the insulation heating the inner skin , too warm in summer .
Apart from the air gap I don't think any of that is right??? I'll look into it...
@@Mr_A_Builders first hand experience of it on our 2 story extension . The gable end faces south , in summer the external wall heats the internal skin .
But is there evidence that proves that it's the insulation that's causing the issue?
@@Mr_A_Builders it’s certainly not helping the issue . The air gap helps keep the heat out .
Defo not on a price must be day rate 😂
Haha! What I lack in speed I make up for in...well...er... something else I'm sure...
😂👌👍
Sorry but you’re talking BS regarding the vertical dpc . Should absolutely have one cut in . I have seen damp track along the old brickwork when this hasn’t been done. It’s less likely to happen on a fairly sheltered wall but when it’s exposed to driving rain the brickwork can get soaking and it tracks along easy .
Hello Lee, hope you're well. No need to apologise, we're all entitled to our opinions. I see you've also replied to another comment in this feed regarding the same issue. Before we get into it, when you fit yours, what size cutter do you use?
Hi mate. Again I will apologise because my reply comes across a little arrogant and it wasn’t meant to be . I am genuinely just surprised because you look like you do a really good job and then can’t get your head around the requirement of the vertical dpc . If you think about it, it’s no different to a window reveal, and you wouldn’t not put a dpc or break that with a cavity closer would you?! :)
We use a standard size diamond blade in the stihl saw. Slot the dpc in and then hold it in with a low modulus silicone bead.
As said on the other reply , it’s take 10 mins extra on top of fixing the wall starters. Makes no sense not to do it imo mate .
Also, we stopped using that full full cavity insulation too a few years ago . We had a period where we got about 2 weeks of persistent driving rain, and even though it’s impregnated with a water proofer it only stops ‘damp’ and not water. The rain was soaking the brickwork on exposed walls and soaking the insulation in the process. Damp patches inside. It was happening all over our area , building inspector had been to loads of jobs with issues with it !
We now only use 50mm Pir now. Well , we do until we do a job with the new regs requiring 100mm PIR in the cavity ! Ridiculous!
Long winded reply that one 😂
nice brickwork. bla bla bla.
Haha! Cheers man.
Great video - I need a bunch of wall starters soon, anyone like to name a wall-starter kit that is not like this? 🤣
Haha! Cheers man. To be honest they are some of the best I've used when it comes to how tight the tie fits in the runner so I'd recommend them. Have a great day pal.