I’m a professional piano tech specializing in replacing soundboards. Steinway & Sons has quit using hot hide glue in favor of Unibond 800 with medium hardener for many of the joints. It’s a 2 part mix of urea formaldehyde and catalyst. Unlike hot hide glue it doesn’t require a hot pot, hours of time to get it up to temp, and has a working time of about 10-15 minutes. Downside is it needs to be clamped for 24 hours for a bent lamination glueup, although not for simple glueups like most woodworkers use. But once it’s dry it’s acoustic properties are nigh indistinguishable from hot hide glue. There’s actually some violin luthiers that have switched to it and the customers have not noticed a change in quality. Steinway has been using it since the 1970’s and there hasn’t been any issues with glue failure since then. As for the hardener, it’s available in white, medium, and dark. It has nothing to do with strength but is just tint. Use dark hardener for walnut, medium for yellower woods like maple/spruce, and white for really light woods. It’s not quite as easily reversible as old school hide glue, but it’s pretty darn close. A bit of water and heat and it will soften enough to remove. A bit more moisture soaked in with a damp rag over the course of about 20 minutes and the joint can be scraped bone dry with a chisel. It’s glass hard quality is also sought after in piano hammer to shank glueups as most companies use titebond quick and thick, but people are realizing you can get more power and responsiveness out of the piano when using glue that dries harder, such as hide glue and Unibond. For that, the preference is to hot hide glue for the slight reversibility benefit but I’ve had great success with the Unibond 800 as well, including reversing the joints to repair it. Biggest downside is you do have to make sure to get the joint clean before re glueing as it’s a lot harder to melt it and get it to re bond well on hammers as there is no clamping force, but on clamped joints it seems to re glue to itself just fine.
James; Another use for Hide Glue is in glass art, doing “Peels”. You stencil a pattern on the glass and apply hide glue in a thin even layer. When dry grab an edge and pull hard. The very top layer of glass peels off with the glue leaving a refractive textured face which contrasts nicely with the smooth glass. Very popular in the 80’s. I don’t see it much now. But it proves how damn strong hide glue is. It is also used in making traditional asiatic recurve bows with horn and sinew. It binds these items together exceedingly well and can flex with the curving limbs. Nothing else works like that.
First experience with hide glue was watching my grandfather use it to repair a violin. Had a jar of granulated hide glue, wish I knew where it went. Watching him work it all was a memory I will treasure.
Lost art press is also selling hide glue now. I also like the cleanup for hide glue, and you can wash it out with water to prevent staining under a finish.
I made a delivery to a Jello plant back when I was an OTR driver, not knowing what they produced in the factory I made the mistake of asking and got a tour. I've never consumed Jello again. Interesting to know that Hide glue is the same product. Makes sense because my delivery that at the factory was 50k lbs of pig skins. Thanks for the great videos!!!
Collagen is súper healty Yeats back grandmas used to boil bones and pig skin and legs to make gelatin Also is súper nutritive unlike arabic gum or other staff that boils your intenstine bacteria Its gross? Yep
I’ve been building guitars for about ten years and most of the talk about hide glue has been by traditionalist who claim they can hear the difference between hide glue and pva-I’m skeptical- but you have provided the best explanation for its use in instrument making. Thanks! You ought to go into luthiery. 🙂
Seriously, you can hear the difference. And I think you'll find you'll get more resonance and longer reverberation. (I think PVA dries "softer" and acts like little shock absorbers all over the instrument.)
I currently use the Titebond stuff as my go-to for most things - when it runs out I might switch to Old Brown. Definitely want to try out the heated stuff, I think having it tack up as it cools would be really handy!
Got some of Old Brown Glue for a complicated glue up and quite liked it. The heat issue, not as much: No hot water in my shop, so I have to remember to carry down a mug of hot water. Not the end of the world, but I will reach for the PVA most times.
Heat guns are incredibly useful for makers/DIYers, you'd be surprised how often you can use one. There are even battery-powered ones, though their runtimes can be pretty short.
There was a monumental church witch woodwork was slowly being devoured by beetles and woodworm. So they decided to treat it. They put a huge tent around the building and treated it with gas and heat. After the treatment they returned to find al the old church benches joints loose and falling apart. 😅
Great video, I'm going to have to try some of this! I'm always interested in finding more natural stuff for my woodworking, and I had a similar experience a couple years ago when Stumpy Nubs turned me on to mixing Shellac from flakes.
Thomas Johnson antique restoration (in Goram, Maine) uses hide glue and uses a small crock pot to warm his glue. He used to use a glue pot from the 1900’s
Hot hide glue is our go to when releathering pipe organ pneumatics, regulators, etc. Unlike any other glue, if left forgotten for a long time (months/years) in the (cold) pot, it will grow... kind of a fuzzy stuff ;)
Thank you for this very informative video. Never tried this glue before, but it does seem fun to geek out into. Seems like shellac, as far as the various options that come with mixing something yourself.
It’s worth mentioning Old Brown Glue, unlike the dry stuff, can expire. I made a violin a couple years ago and now my bottle became runny at room temp and didn’t notice until i was building another instrument. I bought another bottle and keep what I don’t plan to use on the latest project in the fridge. Just plan on using what you buy in a timely manner.
So you think bacteria got in my bottle? I’m curious if you have used OBG past its labeled shelf life. I suspect the addition of urea gives it that 18mo shelf life.
Put the glue in a glass jar that sits in the pot, so you have a water bath to clean your brushes. And the hot water can help clean up any mess you encounter. I tend to use 400+ gram strength for most of my purposes, but otherwise, I’ll end up using Titebond Liquid Hide Glue. And often I’ll use a veneer iron to set hot hide glue where I’m gluing leather to wood.
Many years ago, I was doing a concrete job for Georgia Pacific at a plant where they made the resin for plywood. I kept seeing 'grey digger' ground squirrels running out of the plant with chunks of some thing in their mouths. When I asked what they were running off with, I was told that the #1 ingredient in the resin was wheat gluten. When relating this story to my young daughter, she commented "oh, maybe that is why they call it glue". I have not played much with hide glue. Maybe I need to change that...
i use hide glue whenever my joinery gets complicated enough that cleaning up squeeze out becomes at all tricky. hide glue doesn't show up when finish goes on the way pva glue will.... learned that lesson the hard way!
Mine was about the last class (‘77), that used hide glue for scenic painting. I think it was specifically from chickens, because before the 50 gallon drum of size would go bad, it smelled like chicken stock! Afterwards, the smell of the denatured alcohol ussssuallyyy covered the rotting smell! One of my classmate’s father worked for Jell-O, and she had horror stories of its manufacture, and of the experimental flavors he brought home, for the kids to try!
Interesting on the temp range. I keep hearing that the glue gets weaker if it gets above 150-160F but you said it is still good up to pretty close to a boil. Maybe a topic for a glue-shootout video (if not already part of your shootouts)?
Watch some of the guitar repair channels here on RUclips, especially @twoodfrd. He often uses hide and other protein-based glue, and explains the process and reasoning as they do so. As James mentioned, it's a common daily-use substance in guitar and violin making and repair.
Lookup 'fixingfurniture' on RUclips where he repairs chairs and other pieces. He uses vinegar to soften hide glue joints. Hide glue is predominant for chairs as at some point in a chairs life it will need to be repaired.
hide glue is THE goto glue for leather work n hard cover book binding by the way (for most applications) if your not trying to struggle with rubber cement.
A 1890-s recepie for liquid hide glue is 4 parts glue (unclear if granulate or dissolved in water), 4 parts strong vinegar (probably 24% acetic acid) mixed while heated, once mixed add one part spirits (alcohol, probably around 40-50%vol) and a bit of alun.
Different glues for different jobs, eh? We have a saying for that in England - "horses for courses". I suppose we could also say "horses for hide glue"!!
I might add that open working time for hide glue is longer than pva, and hide glue isn't supposed to swell wood fibers as much which makes it better for putting together tight fitting joints and it is hugely less likely to inter with stain application.
the open time depends on the mix of hide glue there are some that will only give you seconds to work and others with an hour or more. as to the swelling it is almost identical to PVA.
James, how does it do with oily woods, for instance, a rosewood plane tote repair? And are the heated granules any stronger than the convenient liquid stuff?
It is the same as a PVA. there are a lot of myths to "oily" woods. the truth is it does not matter as much as people make it sound. as tot he strength they are almost identical for the liquid and the flake.
@ YEP! On oily woods, I’ll use epoxy over pva OR hide glue. (If you read carefully, I’m not really contradicting Mr. Wright: he’s only comparing pva and hide glue to each other.)
< same angry voice as previous posts> This really is getting to be too much . Once again, you have provided thoughtful insight into an area of woodworking that I had not even contemplated exploring! This video is so frustratingly useful! Once again, I begrudgingly thank you very much for providing another informative video on your Channel! < even angrier voice > I genuinely hope you have a wonderful day! 🙂
Hello, thank you very much for the information! I have a question: you mentioned that if you're going to separate wood glued with PVA glue, you need to remove the remaining glue before rejoining the joint. Is that right? Did I understand correctly, or does PVA glue have some difficulty bonding to itself?
Great video, I am a wood turner and often glue pieces of wood together to make layered bowls. I am worried about using hide glue because of people cleaning the bowls with a warm/hot wet towel. Could someone wiping a bowl down with a warm/hot towel actually cause the joint to fail?
Hey, grate video! I can't grasp fish glue. Is it liquid or just sold in liquid form? Also saw some one claiming the liquid hide glue doesn't pull the joint the same way the classical version does. Do you have any experience in those areas?
Fish glue has the big benefit of being liquid at room temperature so you don't have to heat it much at all if you want to use it. But it is a very low gram strength glue so it's very flexible. As two liquid high glues there are a lot of people who claim a lot of different things. But in all practical functionality it's identical. It just has a longer open time
I’ve been using the Tite Bond Liquid Hide glue. I especially like the open time relative to PVA glue. Any chance you can describe how the open time compares for Tite Bond Liquid Hide glue to both the old brown glue and the traditional liquid hide glue. For me the open time is importnat. Thanks!
Great video as always. Curious about the working temperature- my shop is often a little cold. Would hide glue be better or worse as the temp reaches around the freezing point?
For a freezing shop, it's absolutely fantastic. The reason being is that if it freezes it has no problem at all. As soon as it thaws again, it's right back to where it was. Whereas with PVA once it freezes, it's trash. Every freeze loses about 50% of the strength with PVA. Now for using it in a freezing environment. It just means that it cures faster as it will cool down faster.
If I’m thinking of choosing between old brown glue and fish glue, am I already overthinking things, or are there reasons why I might want one over the other?
Luthier here. My opinion - if you need hide glue you need to make your own from the flakes or other ground up bits. The big brand name you show never seems to dry hard enough (well it wouldn't come out of the bottle if it did.) The kind you make dries hard enough that you can get amazing resonance out of an instrument. It doesn't take long to mix up. For big jobs I can dig out my mini crock pot but for a small job 10 - 15 seconds in a microwave and you're good to go. Oh, and clamp it. Don't clamp the stew out of it, but some clamping is better than none. Again, my opinion.
I had not really looked into hide glue before and even after your explanation I still wonder how you should use it. Is it really something to use for connections in furniture? Or when making a bookcase, for example, is it strong enough for connections of load-bearing parts? And can it withstand larger temperature differences such as on hot days in the sun or in freezing cold in winter? I ask the latter because I am busy refurbishing some more than a hundred year old wooden window shutters of a mansion, and I have to put the original panels back together. Hide glue will not be an option here anyway because of the chance of moisture ingress, but it makes me wonder about the impact of large temperature differences on the glue.
moisture and heat from the weather are not a problem for it and it is more then strong enough for joinery. it is not the glue to use for exterior use in direct rain, but moisture in the air even at 100+ degrees and 100% humidity wont be much of a problem at all. in that case it would be about the same as PVA.
Comment down below. Ohh, and I have found that hide glue can make things more traditional, gives you more time to work and makes it more fun. And the most important thing you have taught us is that it needs to be fun. Thank you.
I’m a professional piano tech specializing in replacing soundboards. Steinway & Sons has quit using hot hide glue in favor of Unibond 800 with medium hardener for many of the joints. It’s a 2 part mix of urea formaldehyde and catalyst. Unlike hot hide glue it doesn’t require a hot pot, hours of time to get it up to temp, and has a working time of about 10-15 minutes. Downside is it needs to be clamped for 24 hours for a bent lamination glueup, although not for simple glueups like most woodworkers use. But once it’s dry it’s acoustic properties are nigh indistinguishable from hot hide glue. There’s actually some violin luthiers that have switched to it and the customers have not noticed a change in quality. Steinway has been using it since the 1970’s and there hasn’t been any issues with glue failure since then.
As for the hardener, it’s available in white, medium, and dark. It has nothing to do with strength but is just tint. Use dark hardener for walnut, medium for yellower woods like maple/spruce, and white for really light woods.
It’s not quite as easily reversible as old school hide glue, but it’s pretty darn close. A bit of water and heat and it will soften enough to remove. A bit more moisture soaked in with a damp rag over the course of about 20 minutes and the joint can be scraped bone dry with a chisel.
It’s glass hard quality is also sought after in piano hammer to shank glueups as most companies use titebond quick and thick, but people are realizing you can get more power and responsiveness out of the piano when using glue that dries harder, such as hide glue and Unibond. For that, the preference is to hot hide glue for the slight reversibility benefit but I’ve had great success with the Unibond 800 as well, including reversing the joints to repair it. Biggest downside is you do have to make sure to get the joint clean before re glueing as it’s a lot harder to melt it and get it to re bond well on hammers as there is no clamping force, but on clamped joints it seems to re glue to itself just fine.
James; Another use for Hide Glue is in glass art, doing “Peels”. You stencil a pattern on the glass and apply hide glue in a thin even layer. When dry grab an edge and pull hard. The very top layer of glass peels off with the glue leaving a refractive textured face which contrasts nicely with the smooth glass. Very popular in the 80’s. I don’t see it much now. But it proves how damn strong hide glue is. It is also used in making traditional asiatic recurve bows with horn and sinew. It binds these items together exceedingly well and can flex with the curving limbs. Nothing else works like that.
Great video, James. I'm really glad I stuck around. Really, a gripping video.
Thanks James. I was glued to the screen for the whole video! Take care & stay safe.
First experience with hide glue was watching my grandfather use it to repair a violin. Had a jar of granulated hide glue, wish I knew where it went. Watching him work it all was a memory I will treasure.
Lost art press is also selling hide glue now. I also like the cleanup for hide glue, and you can wash it out with water to prevent staining under a finish.
And they publish the recipe so you can make it yourself w/ grocery store ingredients
Ngl "It's around here somewhere" got me 😂😂
I made a delivery to a Jello plant back when I was an OTR driver, not knowing what they produced in the factory I made the mistake of asking and got a tour. I've never consumed Jello again. Interesting to know that Hide glue is the same product. Makes sense because my delivery that at the factory was 50k lbs of pig skins. Thanks for the great videos!!!
Collagen is súper healty
Yeats back grandmas used to boil bones and pig skin and legs to make gelatin
Also is súper nutritive unlike arabic gum or other staff that boils your intenstine bacteria
Its gross? Yep
Thanks for that thorough treatment of a sticky subject.
Thank you. I really didn't know that much about hide glue, and your video was quite enlightening.
Great job on this video. I never knew anything about hide glue
I'm going to start asking people to pass the glue at Thanksgiving.
😂😂
I swear, everytime I think " I wonder" you come out with a video about that exact thing... keep it up! Thanks.
I’ve been building guitars for about ten years and most of the talk about hide glue has been by traditionalist who claim they can hear the difference between hide glue and pva-I’m skeptical- but you have provided the best explanation for its use in instrument making. Thanks!
You ought to go into luthiery. 🙂
Seriously, you can hear the difference. And I think you'll find you'll get more resonance and longer reverberation. (I think PVA dries "softer" and acts like little shock absorbers all over the instrument.)
I've been thinking that I want to see a guitar build from James. Maybe a lute. Or a ukelale for one of the kids.
I'm not sure that I can hear a difference, but a good guitar needs to be able to be repaired. Hide glue makes it much, much easier.
You can also buy powdered Urea to mix with the granular hide glue.
I was glued to my chair the whole time !
Back in the day carpenters had a glue pot. It’s a double boiler cast iron pot. Yes. I have one. Great job. Thank you 😊
I couldn't figure out what was sticking out on the workbench this week until it hit me - the SV Seeker mug! I love that thing.
Thank you James. I never knew about hide glue until this video. 👍
I currently use the Titebond stuff as my go-to for most things - when it runs out I might switch to Old Brown. Definitely want to try out the heated stuff, I think having it tack up as it cools would be really handy!
Got some of Old Brown Glue for a complicated glue up and quite liked it. The heat issue, not as much: No hot water in my shop, so I have to remember to carry down a mug of hot water. Not the end of the world, but I will reach for the PVA most times.
Heat guns are incredibly useful for makers/DIYers, you'd be surprised how often you can use one. There are even battery-powered ones, though their runtimes can be pretty short.
Thank you for this bit of education. Answered a lot of questions. Nice!
There was a monumental church witch woodwork was slowly being devoured by beetles and woodworm. So they decided to treat it. They put a huge tent around the building and treated it with gas and heat. After the treatment they returned to find al the old church benches joints loose and falling apart. 😅
Great video! I like all your videos, especially the long ones!!!
Excellent overview. The lutherier Frank Ford has a lot of practical information about hide glue on his site as well. Thanks for sharing.
Perfect timing I just bought rawhide toys to follow along with your tutorial glad to hear you still advocating this method :D
Great video, I'm going to have to try some of this! I'm always interested in finding more natural stuff for my woodworking, and I had a similar experience a couple years ago when Stumpy Nubs turned me on to mixing Shellac from flakes.
If you want to do a longer vid then Im here for it.
Thank you James, really great video!!!
Thomas Johnson antique restoration (in Goram, Maine) uses hide glue and uses a small crock pot to warm his glue. He used to use a glue pot from the 1900’s
Ahh, I knew all that already-NOT!!! This was an excellent, very informative and very useful vid, James!! Thank you so much!!
I'm looking forward to the find glue video. Thanks James.
Thanks James.
you really saved my hide
Old Brown Glue is my favorite wood glue.
Hot hide glue is our go to when releathering pipe organ pneumatics, regulators, etc.
Unlike any other glue, if left forgotten for a long time (months/years) in the (cold) pot, it will grow... kind of a fuzzy stuff ;)
Thank you for this very informative video. Never tried this glue before, but it does seem fun to geek out into. Seems like shellac, as far as the various options that come with mixing something yourself.
It’s worth mentioning Old Brown Glue, unlike the dry stuff, can expire. I made a violin a couple years ago and now my bottle became runny at room temp and didn’t notice until i was building another instrument. I bought another bottle and keep what I don’t plan to use on the latest project in the fridge. Just plan on using what you buy in a timely manner.
Yeah hide glue once it's been hydrated can expire but usually that's when some bacteria or something gets under it.
So you think bacteria got in my bottle? I’m curious if you have used OBG past its labeled shelf life. I suspect the addition of urea gives it that 18mo shelf life.
Yes the bottle I show in the video is over 5 years old. I keep it in the rifridurator.
in grade school the woodworking class always had a pot on the fire with a brush in the lid. that was about seventy years ago.
Thanks for the great info and puns...
Enlightening and entertaining James. I got a jeckle out of it.
Some places like Cuba still use home made fish glue. I've heard of a sort of hide glue commonly used in Mexico before the 1990s
I’ve seen rabbit skin glue, too! I think it is used in gold leaf work.
Put the glue in a glass jar that sits in the pot, so you have a water bath to clean your brushes. And the hot water can help clean up any mess you encounter.
I tend to use 400+ gram strength for most of my purposes, but otherwise, I’ll end up using Titebond Liquid Hide Glue.
And often I’ll use a veneer iron to set hot hide glue where I’m gluing leather to wood.
Fascinating... thanks for sharing!
Very helpful, thanks!
Thanks, James! This is a great explanation and I learned something.
Many years ago, I was doing a concrete job for Georgia Pacific at a plant where they made the resin for plywood. I kept seeing 'grey digger' ground squirrels running out of the plant with chunks of some thing in their mouths. When I asked what they were running off with, I was told that the #1 ingredient in the resin was wheat gluten. When relating this story to my young daughter, she commented "oh, maybe that is why they call it glue". I have not played much with hide glue. Maybe I need to change that...
i use hide glue whenever my joinery gets complicated enough that cleaning up squeeze out becomes at all tricky. hide glue doesn't show up when finish goes on the way pva glue will.... learned that lesson the hard way!
Very interesting - thanks !!!
Mine was about the last class (‘77), that used hide glue for scenic painting. I think it was specifically from chickens, because before the 50 gallon drum of size would go bad, it smelled like chicken stock! Afterwards, the smell of the denatured alcohol ussssuallyyy covered the rotting smell!
One of my classmate’s father worked for Jell-O, and she had horror stories of its manufacture, and of the experimental flavors he brought home, for the kids to try!
Awesome. Thanks!
thank you
Thanks for the info great video
Interesting on the temp range. I keep hearing that the glue gets weaker if it gets above 150-160F but you said it is still good up to pretty close to a boil. Maybe a topic for a glue-shootout video (if not already part of your shootouts)?
Great video, I’m going to use it to make a Kayak 👍
I would like to see practical demos of taking apart an instrument or what ever to show how that is done with hide glue.
Watch some of the guitar repair channels here on RUclips, especially @twoodfrd. He often uses hide and other protein-based glue, and explains the process and reasoning as they do so. As James mentioned, it's a common daily-use substance in guitar and violin making and repair.
I have never done a video on that. It might make a good video. Here is one by Chris. ruclips.net/video/2oDbmjwG98U/видео.htmlsi=QDeUEr5ojggAElte
Lookup 'fixingfurniture' on RUclips where he repairs chairs and other pieces. He uses vinegar to soften hide glue joints.
Hide glue is predominant for chairs as at some point in a chairs life it will need to be repaired.
hide glue is THE goto glue for leather work n hard cover book binding by the way (for most applications) if your not trying to struggle with rubber cement.
"When you can do something you actually made from your dog... toy" :)
Great info
Also great for paper sizing
Thank you for another great video.
Thanks
A 1890-s recepie for liquid hide glue is 4 parts glue (unclear if granulate or dissolved in water), 4 parts strong vinegar (probably 24% acetic acid) mixed while heated, once mixed add one part spirits (alcohol, probably around 40-50%vol) and a bit of alun.
Always excellent. Merci 🎉
Really well done
Different glues for different jobs, eh?
We have a saying for that in England - "horses for courses".
I suppose we could also say "horses for hide glue"!!
Thanks for the great video.
Could you do a short talking about clean up of hide glue?
I might have to add that to the list
I might add that open working time for hide glue is longer than pva, and hide glue isn't supposed to swell wood fibers as much which makes it better for putting together tight fitting joints and it is hugely less likely to inter with stain application.
the open time depends on the mix of hide glue there are some that will only give you seconds to work and others with an hour or more. as to the swelling it is almost identical to PVA.
I was glued to the screen
Hide Glue teaches you to be super organised with glueups. No time for pfaffing around, especially with Guitar builds.
James, how does it do with oily woods, for instance, a rosewood plane tote repair? And are the heated granules any stronger than the convenient liquid stuff?
It is the same as a PVA. there are a lot of myths to "oily" woods. the truth is it does not matter as much as people make it sound. as tot he strength they are almost identical for the liquid and the flake.
@ thanks, that’s good info. I’ll still use epoxy on totes!
Great video
Thanks for sharing that!
Great vid. I just realized, I can probably fix my leather shoes with this stuff quite well. I just may.
It’s not very flexible. It’ll probably crack if it’s flexed too much. I’d recommend Barge cement for leather shoes.
Plus if your shoes get wet, it’ll fall apart.
@@TheMrchuck2000 Ah okay, thanks. (I’m going to try it anyways, I’m very stubborn).
@ YEP! On oily woods, I’ll use epoxy over pva OR hide glue. (If you read carefully, I’m not really contradicting Mr. Wright: he’s only comparing pva and hide glue to each other.)
Quite useful, thanks.
Thank you...have you ever removed the top/bottom of a violin, viola, guitar etc.? Thanks again!!!
Thanks. No I have never done that. I don't do a lot of luthier work myself.
Hide glue is something I have never used yet. In my defense, the big box store always hides their hide glue.
< same angry voice as previous posts> This really is getting to be too much . Once again, you have provided thoughtful insight into an area of woodworking that I had not even contemplated exploring! This video is so frustratingly useful! Once again, I begrudgingly thank you very much for providing another informative video on your Channel! < even angrier voice > I genuinely hope you have a wonderful day! 🙂
Hello, thank you very much for the information! I have a question: you mentioned that if you're going to separate wood glued with PVA glue, you need to remove the remaining glue before rejoining the joint. Is that right? Did I understand correctly, or does PVA glue have some difficulty bonding to itself?
That is correct. PVA does not bond to itself well. if it is remoisturized then it will not go back to being a strong adhesive like Hide glue will.
Snide remarks? Don't you mean hide remakes?
This video was enlightening, especially the luthier stuff.
Great video, I am a wood turner and often glue pieces of wood together to make layered bowls. I am worried about using hide glue because of people cleaning the bowls with a warm/hot wet towel. Could someone wiping a bowl down with a warm/hot towel actually cause the joint to fail?
Wiping a bowl down would not cause a problem. But dunking it in a sink filled with water might.
Hey, grate video! I can't grasp fish glue. Is it liquid or just sold in liquid form? Also saw some one claiming the liquid hide glue doesn't pull the joint the same way the classical version does. Do you have any experience in those areas?
Fish glue has the big benefit of being liquid at room temperature so you don't have to heat it much at all if you want to use it. But it is a very low gram strength glue so it's very flexible. As two liquid high glues there are a lot of people who claim a lot of different things. But in all practical functionality it's identical. It just has a longer open time
Really interesting indeed! Thanks, James! 😃
So... Is that why people use it to glue leather to vises?
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Good evening!
Interesting thanks
Jim: I used to seek advice from Luthiers until I became a Baptist. I know you just laughed because you are just as corny as I am. 😅😊
I’ve been using the Tite Bond Liquid Hide glue. I especially like the open time relative to PVA glue. Any chance you can describe how the open time compares for Tite Bond Liquid Hide glue to both the old brown glue and the traditional liquid hide glue. For me the open time is importnat. Thanks!
It is the same as the old brown. For the flake it depends on how you mix it. But it is generally faster then the liquid glue.
Great video as always. Curious about the working temperature- my shop is often a little cold. Would hide glue be better or worse as the temp reaches around the freezing point?
For a freezing shop, it's absolutely fantastic. The reason being is that if it freezes it has no problem at all. As soon as it thaws again, it's right back to where it was. Whereas with PVA once it freezes, it's trash. Every freeze loses about 50% of the strength with PVA. Now for using it in a freezing environment. It just means that it cures faster as it will cool down faster.
Do you have a video talking about the applications of the different types of glue?🤔
Not directly. I have a series on testing different glues. What particularly are you asking for?
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Glues for dummies (beginners).😁
If I’m thinking of choosing between old brown glue and fish glue, am I already overthinking things, or are there reasons why I might want one over the other?
There are small differences between the two in specific applications, but for 99% of applications there's no difference.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thank you!
I really love high(?) glue, but makes me giggle 😂😂😂
Luthier here. My opinion - if you need hide glue you need to make your own from the flakes or other ground up bits. The big brand name you show never seems to dry hard enough (well it wouldn't come out of the bottle if it did.) The kind you make dries hard enough that you can get amazing resonance out of an instrument. It doesn't take long to mix up. For big jobs I can dig out my mini crock pot but for a small job 10 - 15 seconds in a microwave and you're good to go.
Oh, and clamp it. Don't clamp the stew out of it, but some clamping is better than none. Again, my opinion.
I repair a lot of antique furniture. I use hide glue because it will be reversible for future repairs
I had not really looked into hide glue before and even after your explanation I still wonder how you should use it. Is it really something to use for connections in furniture? Or when making a bookcase, for example, is it strong enough for connections of load-bearing parts? And can it withstand larger temperature differences such as on hot days in the sun or in freezing cold in winter? I ask the latter because I am busy refurbishing some more than a hundred year old wooden window shutters of a mansion, and I have to put the original panels back together. Hide glue will not be an option here anyway because of the chance of moisture ingress, but it makes me wonder about the impact of large temperature differences on the glue.
moisture and heat from the weather are not a problem for it and it is more then strong enough for joinery. it is not the glue to use for exterior use in direct rain, but moisture in the air even at 100+ degrees and 100% humidity wont be much of a problem at all. in that case it would be about the same as PVA.
Yup, guess I gotta get some hide glue now....
Comment down below. Ohh, and I have found that hide glue can make things more traditional, gives you more time to work and makes it more fun. And the most important thing you have taught us is that it needs to be fun. Thank you.
Where can you find glue made out of mucus? I'd really like to squeeze the snot out my joints.
"It is exactly the same thing... basically" thanks for letting me hit my pedantry quota before 10 am!
Believe it or not you can actually ingest a large amount of epoxy, but only once.