fantastic! i will be stealing the "clean up after 15 min" trick forthwith. the "thick tape dams" trick looks like a winner too but i'm used to drilling two holes through the saddle slot into the top and gluing little dowels into the bridge as locater pins to locate the bridge before clamping; tape dams require no holes though, that's a good argument for them one trick i can throw in here is instead of the disposable bristle brushes, use those silicone rubber basting brushes! those bristle brushes can shed, and the last thing we want is a bristle left in there keeping the wood surfaces slightly apart and compromising the glue joint
Before your 7th tip I was just thinking what a modern age we live in where limitless students can benefit from what was only available to an apprentice years ago. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. 🙏
Thank you for passing this knowledge on. Great production quality. I consider this world class information from a world class builder and master craftsman. A Master is one who is at the pinnacle of their craft, and thus, not fearing being bettered, passes their knowledge on. This was more helpful than you could know.
Thanks :) I like teaching what I know. I don’t call myself a master- I think after about 40 years one becomes that :) but there is always more to learn
You do not have to, the level of your work, and willingness to pass on knowledge says it. Some of the best will never become true masters of their craft, and their knowledge will die and be forgotten....
Great video, Beau. Thanks! The masking tape tip is excellent, but I agree with others that #7 is the most important. Without it, the entire guitar community is all the poorer. I'm baffled by those few luthiers that maintain The Secret Sauce. They know who they are. But it's wonderful to see a vast majority sharing knowledge and answering questions of any kind!
Hi Beau. At 6:50 you mention the use of an egg timer to time the gluing of the bridge. Why not just use the timer on your phone? Or is it simply for convenience when gluing stuff-to-stuff regularly? Thank you so much for making this video.
Thanks and my pleasure- the egg timer is just a thing i use as im usually covered in glue and dust and try to keep my phone away from it (its still covered in glue!)
@@BeauHannamGuitars Cool. I look forward. I've worked for a few guitar makers, and never used HHG for luthiery/repairs, only TB, epoxy, CA etc. I did occasionally use it when I dabbled in antique furniture resto many years ago, but only because it was compatible with the remnants of the original adhesive. Cheers!
Thanks for the video. Something I have always wondered is, you wax the bridge to clean any glue off but how do you clean the bridge if you want to finish it somehow once it is glued on?
The wax isn’t needed. And just use that to coincide with my method of not cleaning up the glue for 30mins. Clean the glue with a warm damp brush (if using hide glue). When I used titebond for bridges I’d clean everything straight away and not use wax ever
Thank you Beau, excellent tips. I started restoring old mantle clocks (including cases) a few months ago, and today I have my first challenge to repair some 70+ year old clock case veneer that has lifted. I was a bit unsure about how to properly use hide glue, it's benefits and limitations. You've lifted my confidence to a much higher level. I'll use your tips which are great preventative measures and preparation ahead of using hide glue. A big two thumbs up for you sharing this 👍👍
I have some low tack tape and will soon be gluing the bridge onto my second acoustic guitar, so this tip will definitely come in handy. Same with the tape dams; that's a great idea! Oh, and I'll be using hide glue on this one (I used TB 1 on my first guitar).
Great tips, Beau, the masking tape dams/locators a new one even for me, a long-time hide glue user. Will definitely adopt this. I use my phone timer (also silent) - no need to go and buy a new egg timer! 😁
I love those masking tape dams- I got desperate one day when I screwed up bridge glue cuz I wasn’t quick enough- now it’s easy. I’ll add a link to that egg timer
A really nice and informative video Beau. I've seen you use the tape dam and wax before and I started using that myself. I especially like the light bulb in the background. That was a nice touch.
Hi Beau,... one question... Why did you leave a small gap of (1/32) between the scored bridge foot print and the masking tape?... Would it be easier and have much little to clean when taping the masking tape right on the edge of the scored bridge foot print (after you peel the masking tape off), Perhaps you wanted an excess glue to ooze out for a thorough gluing of the bridge???.... Kindly enlighten me on this issue please.😊
It’s easier to see if the bridge has moved off of where it should be. I did this before I came up with the masking tape dams but I still think it’s a good fail safe to do.
Love the tips. I have made several ukuleles and have found gluing the bridge quite stress full. This will make my work a lot easier and better quality. Thanks for the help.
Great video! Do you use a caul of some type on the inside under the bridge? If so, any tips on how to get it into place before or during glue up? Thanks.
Have you considered using Fish glue? It has the same properties as Hide glue, applied at room temperature, with a much longer open time. I know it is rumored to be more susceptible to softening with high humidity. Maybe you could do some tests??
@@BeauHannamGuitars Stories are stories. Unless you've experienced it yourself, you'll never know for sure. You should do some tests. Of course, the bridge would need to have a full string load. I've used fish glue on a few bridges (6 string acoustic) and haven't had any come off. I've had no problem using it with gluing acoustic necks back on after a neck reset. Humidity isn't getting in there. Of course, I've kept them in close to optimal conditions, temp 80 or less and humidity 60% or less. You'd certainly never have a problem in Colorado! It gets a bit more hot & humid in CT, especially in the last week or so. I know Bryan Kymsey has glued at least one bridge on with fish glue as a test, and I haven't seen him mention it coming off. It's possible having too much glue in the joint could cause the problem.
@@davefengler4266 first hand stories from full time professional internationally renowned luthiers are good enough for me. I’m really only In Charge of where it goes after me- the customer it’s built for. If you glue a guitar with fish glue and it gets sold on to someone in Singapore- the guitar will become deconstructed.
@@davefengler4266 I've build around 10 instruments with fish glue for fngerboards and bridges so far. Haven't had any issue with it. My customers live in "normal" climates though (no extreme temperatures and humidity). I do tell them to be extra careful with extremes climates though, are to not put them in front of a window in summer, or on the ground in winter if they have floor heating systems. It's just general good advice for instruments anyway IMHO. If someone orders a guitar and lives in more extreme climates or is going to tour the world with the guitar, I'll use Titebond to be on the safe side.
You gotta heat up the binding with a hair dryer so it pushes back into place with no effort. Then use 3m pr600 ca glue or canopy glue. It can get ugly very quick if you don’t know what your doing
Bridges are the things that come off and repaired the r replaced the most often. hHG is easy to reinvigorate without having to remove all the bits. Titebond you have to remove all the old stuff to reglue
Hey beau, nice video… with using hide glue on bridge… is it a problem if I don’t wax it as I want to French polish after gluing bridge on… scared the wax will repel the shellac… also what else do you use hide glue for? Or better still, what don’t you use it for? I’m considering using it on everything on my next flamenco guitar
You can use hide glue for EVERYTHING. I only use it on bridges and vintage repairs at the moment. I wouldn’t worry too much about much about the wax. It’s super thin and You can remove it easy. Or just don’t wax the bridge and clean the squeeze out immediately with a paint brush in warm water. Just use a damp brush, not “dripping wet” with water. Better still, try both ways and see what you prefer :) Best of luck
I noticed you used MinWax, I assume floor wax, instead of Renaissance wax, which you have previously promoted. Is the MinWax wax better, or did you run out of Renaissance wax and the MinWax wax was just available?
Renaissance I use for final finishing on fingerboards and bridges. I use this cheaper Johnson’s minwax for covering cauls, bridges, pickgaurd press cauls etc to minimize glue sticking.
It depends how hot everything is- the room you are flying in and the surfaces being glued. hHG gels at 110F. I would use Old Brown Glue (which is also a hot hide glue but with a longer open time as it gels at around 80F) for gluing on tops, backs and X braces. It can obviously be done with HHG, but I don’t want to stress rush those jobs.
I love the thick tape tip... Even a 60yr old woodworker can learn new tricks.
@@blh3741 thanks 😊
fantastic! i will be stealing the "clean up after 15 min" trick forthwith. the "thick tape dams" trick looks like a winner too but i'm used to drilling two holes through the saddle slot into the top and gluing little dowels into the bridge as locater pins to locate the bridge before clamping; tape dams require no holes though, that's a good argument for them
one trick i can throw in here is instead of the disposable bristle brushes, use those silicone rubber basting brushes! those bristle brushes can shed, and the last thing we want is a bristle left in there keeping the wood surfaces slightly apart and compromising the glue joint
The time to wait seems to depend on the glue batch- my current batch I wait more like 30mins for it to glue just right
Focused. To the point. The best style of youtube video I’ve seen.
Thanks- I’m trying to tighten up my editing
Before your 7th tip I was just thinking what a modern age we live in where limitless students can benefit from what was only available to an apprentice years ago. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. 🙏
Thanks- my pleasure
Thanks. So good to see the process in full. Now I'm not scared of screwing up.
Thanks and my pleasure. It’s not hard to use :)
Many thanks for the multi layered tape stop trick! Much better than my previous technique of using a tape “wrinkle”! Thanks!
My pleasure :)
7th tip is definitely the most important tip, one that I see a lot from the luthing community. As always thank you for your time !
My pleasure Ashley
Thank you for passing this knowledge on. Great production quality. I consider this world class information from a world class builder and master craftsman. A Master is one who is at the pinnacle of their craft, and thus, not fearing being bettered, passes their knowledge on. This was more helpful than you could know.
Thanks :) I like teaching what I know. I don’t call myself a master- I think after about 40 years one becomes that :) but there is always more to learn
You do not have to, the level of your work, and willingness to pass on knowledge says it. Some of the best will never become true masters of their craft, and their knowledge will die and be forgotten....
Lots of not so common or obvious knowledge here. Thank you for all the insight!
Thank You- i try to help :)
I’ve never considered using hide glue, I understand the benefits now. Great tips, thank you!
Thanks for watching -
Great video, Beau. Thanks! The masking tape tip is excellent, but I agree with others that #7 is the most important. Without it, the entire guitar community is all the poorer. I'm baffled by those few luthiers that maintain The Secret Sauce. They know who they are. But it's wonderful to see a vast majority sharing knowledge and answering questions of any kind!
Thanks. Yep 7 is the most important for sure
Brilliant video, a gem; thank you. I will be using this technique from now on.
Thanks and my pleasure :)
Hi Beau. At 6:50 you mention the use of an egg timer to time the gluing of the bridge. Why not just use the timer on your phone? Or is it simply for convenience when gluing stuff-to-stuff regularly? Thank you so much for making this video.
Thanks and my pleasure- the egg timer is just a thing i use as im usually covered in glue and dust and try to keep my phone away from it (its still covered in glue!)
Great refresher and a few good tips!
Thanks Beau.
Thanks for watching :)
Nice vid. How about a follow-up with why you use HHG in the first place? Cheers.
Thanks That video in the works - the when’s and whys of all the glues I use.
@@BeauHannamGuitars Cool. I look forward. I've worked for a few guitar makers, and never used HHG for luthiery/repairs, only TB, epoxy, CA etc. I did occasionally use it when I dabbled in antique furniture resto many years ago, but only because it was compatible with the remnants of the original adhesive. Cheers!
Thanks for the video. Something I have always wondered is, you wax the bridge to clean any glue off but how do you clean the bridge if you want to finish it somehow once it is glued on?
The wax isn’t needed. And just use that to coincide with my method of not cleaning up the glue for 30mins. Clean the glue with a warm damp brush (if using hide glue). When I used titebond for bridges I’d clean everything straight away and not use wax ever
Thank you Beau, excellent tips. I started restoring old mantle clocks (including cases) a few months ago, and today I have my first challenge to repair some 70+ year old clock case veneer that has lifted. I was a bit unsure about how to properly use hide glue, it's benefits and limitations. You've lifted my confidence to a much higher level. I'll use your tips which are great preventative measures and preparation ahead of using hide glue. A big two thumbs up for you sharing this 👍👍
Thanks so much. I love old
Clocks!
Cheers squire, lets me know I've been doing it in a good way
:) :) :)
Awesome 😘
Thanks 🤗
I have some low tack tape and will soon be gluing the bridge onto my second acoustic guitar, so this tip will definitely come in handy. Same with the tape dams; that's a great idea! Oh, and I'll be using hide glue on this one (I used TB 1 on my first guitar).
COOL!- good luck. with the little tape dams it always goes well for me.
Great info! Thanks again, this is going to help out a lot in the next few weeks as I try my hand at hide glue.
My pleasure- It’s worth getting into :)
Looking forward to this!
I've given all these tips before in various Instagram reels, shorts, and videos etc but i thought id make it into a video :)
@@BeauHannamGuitars I use a vacuum clamp - I’m hoping I can use it along with your tips. The vacuum clamp is just so damn convenient!
ive been meaning to get into vacuum clamping as it looks useful for alot of stuff
Great tips, Beau, the masking tape dams/locators a new one even for me, a long-time hide glue user. Will definitely adopt this. I use my phone timer (also silent) - no need to go and buy a new egg timer! 😁
I love those masking tape dams- I got desperate one day when I screwed up bridge glue cuz I wasn’t quick enough- now it’s easy. I’ll add a link to that egg timer
A really nice and informative video Beau. I've seen you use the tape dam and wax before and I started using that myself. I especially like the light bulb in the background. That was a nice touch.
Thanks :)
The Edison lightbulb! Best $14.95 I’ve spent! Hahahah
Hi Beau,... one question... Why did you leave a small gap of (1/32) between the scored bridge foot print and the masking tape?... Would it be easier and have much little to clean when taping the masking tape right on the edge of the scored bridge foot print (after you peel the masking tape off), Perhaps you wanted an excess glue to ooze out for a thorough gluing of the bridge???.... Kindly enlighten me on this issue please.😊
It’s easier to see if the bridge has moved off of where it should be. I did this before I came up with the masking tape dams but I still think it’s a good fail safe to do.
thanks so much for your time in sharing .bummer about L.M.I closing any word on who is making royal black wood aka torified purple heart for binding
No word on who might sell Royal Blackwood. You can get it here
maderasbarber.com/tonewood/en/1928-royal-blackwood
Appreciate your sharing of good tips.
My pleasure
Thank you kind sir. I used the tape dam tabs for the first time today. Works great!
My pleasure. It is a great method for hide glue use :) glad you like it too
Thanks for some great tips!
My pleasure
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Glue pots are antique, microwave is so much better!
But we do use glue pots for felting.
I’ve heard experienced people (Frank Ford) using a microwave to heat up hide glue but …. It ain’t for me. I like my glue pot
You’re the best. Thanks
Thank you :)
Love the tips. I have made several ukuleles and have found gluing the bridge quite stress full. This will make my work a lot easier and better quality. Thanks for the help.
Thanks- the little tape dams are good for hide glue. You can also use little sticks through the saddle to place a bridge.
does this also work with bottled hide glue@@BeauHannamGuitars
Yep- but the only bottles hide glue you should use in lutherie is "Old Brown Glue" brand.- Don't use the cold Franklin hide glue.
Thanks a lot for sharing the Tipps!
How do you prepare the glueing surfaces?
Thank you!
Gluing surface should be sanded with P80 grit
Thank you
My pleasure
Fantastic video! Thank you for sharing.
Thank you and my pleasure :)
Thanks for Sharing your tips.
My pleasure :)
I do like the 7th tip. Nice video Beau.
Hahahha. 6 is better then 7
Great video, Beau! :)
Thanks Zach :)
Thank, Beau
My pleasure :)
Great tips Beau, thanks for posting, really enjoyed your video!
Thanks TJ! I wish you would make more !!!
Beau, thanks for sharing the information in this video!
My pleasure :)
@@BeauHannamGuitars One day, will you show me the Glow-in-the-Dark headstock?
@@Morande23 I will do a video on that
@@BeauHannamGuitars Awesome!
Great video! Thanks for sharing Beau!
Thanks Joel :)
Great video! Do you use a caul of some type on the inside under the bridge? If so, any tips on how to get it into place before or during glue up? Thanks.
@@django02 thanks. I usually don’t use a caul on the inside - my clamps have about a 3/4” Teflon disk thing which is big enough
Thanks for the tip.
:)
Great tips, thanks.
My pleasure
thank you
My pleasure 😇
That was a very helpful tip. Thanks for sharing.
My pleasure
many good tips, thx
Thank you- My pleasure
Thanks Beau! 🙂
My pleasure
Dear Beau great video ! are you always cleaning the bridges with acetone before gluing or is it depending of which type of wood you use ?
I never clean a bridge with acetone. The only time I think I’ve ever done that in 20 years was with a cocobolo bridge.
Great suggestions. Thanks Beau!
Thanks and my pleasure
Have you considered using Fish glue? It has the same properties as Hide glue, applied at room temperature, with a much longer open time. I know it is rumored to be more susceptible to softening with high humidity. Maybe you could do some tests??
I use fish glue for some small things but I’ve heard to many stories about it releasing under heat/humidity.
@@BeauHannamGuitars Stories are stories. Unless you've experienced it yourself, you'll never know for sure. You should do some tests. Of course, the bridge would need to have a full string load. I've used fish glue on a few bridges (6 string acoustic) and haven't had any come off. I've had no problem using it with gluing acoustic necks back on after a neck reset. Humidity isn't getting in there. Of course, I've kept them in close to optimal conditions, temp 80 or less and humidity 60% or less. You'd certainly never have a problem in Colorado! It gets a bit more hot & humid in CT, especially in the last week or so. I know Bryan Kymsey has glued at least one bridge on with fish glue as a test, and I haven't seen him mention it coming off. It's possible having too much glue in the joint could cause the problem.
@@davefengler4266 first hand stories from full time professional internationally renowned luthiers are good enough for me. I’m really only In Charge of where it goes after me- the customer it’s built for. If you glue a guitar with fish glue and it gets sold on to someone in Singapore- the guitar will become deconstructed.
@@davefengler4266 I've build around 10 instruments with fish glue for fngerboards and bridges so far. Haven't had any issue with it. My customers live in "normal" climates though (no extreme temperatures and humidity). I do tell them to be extra careful with extremes climates though, are to not put them in front of a window in summer, or on the ground in winter if they have floor heating systems. It's just general good advice for instruments anyway IMHO.
If someone orders a guitar and lives in more extreme climates or is going to tour the world with the guitar, I'll use Titebond to be on the safe side.
Absolutely
Greatful for the tips ! My martin 00018's binding slightly shrink，Can hide glue or fish glue uesd for the repairing? Thinks!
You gotta heat up the binding with a hair dryer so it pushes back into place with no effort. Then use 3m pr600 ca glue or canopy glue. It can get ugly very quick if you don’t know what your doing
Why would hide glue be more appropriate than a traditional wood glue here?
More serviceable?
Bridges are the things that come off and repaired the r replaced the most often. hHG is easy to reinvigorate without having to remove all the bits. Titebond you have to remove all the old stuff to reglue
Hey beau, nice video… with using hide glue on bridge… is it a problem if I don’t wax it as I want to French polish after gluing bridge on… scared the wax will repel the shellac… also what else do you use hide glue for? Or better still, what don’t you use it for? I’m considering using it on everything on my next flamenco guitar
You can use hide glue for EVERYTHING. I only use it on bridges and vintage repairs at the moment. I wouldn’t worry too much about much about the wax. It’s super thin and You can remove it easy. Or just don’t wax the bridge and clean the squeeze out immediately with a paint brush in warm water. Just use a damp brush, not “dripping wet” with water.
Better still, try both ways and see what you prefer :)
Best of luck
I noticed you used MinWax, I assume floor wax, instead of Renaissance wax, which you have previously promoted. Is the MinWax wax better, or did you run out of Renaissance wax and the MinWax wax was just available?
Renaissance I use for final finishing on fingerboards and bridges. I use this cheaper Johnson’s minwax for covering cauls, bridges, pickgaurd press cauls etc to minimize glue sticking.
What do you consider the work time for HHG? Particularly concerned with the time to reattach a guitar back and clamp appropriately. Thanks!
It depends how hot everything is- the room you are flying in and the surfaces being glued. hHG gels at 110F.
I would use Old Brown Glue (which is also a hot hide glue but with a longer open time as it gels at around 80F) for gluing on tops, backs and X braces. It can obviously be done with HHG, but I don’t want to stress rush those jobs.
Will do, thanks very much!
Never though of an egg timer.
They are handy when you got many jobs going
Do you have one for each job? LOL.@@BeauHannamGuitars
hahahha- I have two!- the black round one is best as it is silent@@BlaisPianoGuitars
HAHA listening to yourlife tick away is never good good idea silence is golden.
Hahahh