I tried this a year ago when you first put the video out, failed so bad I didn't try again for a year, tried again, and failed again. But I kept going and figured out what I had done wrong (or rather, what I needed to change on my basic block for this modification to work)! I figured I'd comment in case anyone else had my same struggles. - Bianca's front bodice block appears to have the side seam almost parallel to the center seam. I had to swing some of my side dart to my waist dart for my block to match. - Bianca's front and back bodice blocks appear to be a similar width. My front block was a full 3" wider than my back block. I moved 1.5" from my front block to my back block to make them more similar - Bianca doesn't mention it in her voice-over, but it looks like the length of the "sleeve" part of the all-in-one sleeve shoulder seam is approximately equal to the "shoulder" part of the all-in-one sleeve shoulder seam. Before I fixed these three things, I had to put a giant swoopy curve in the arm opening because otherwise, even if I came straight up from the side seam and didn't add any extra, the shoulder seam still came nearly to my elbow. Fixing these three things, my all-in-one blocks look similar to Bianca's. I whipped out a wrap-front shirt using it over the past couple of nights, and I'm wearing it to work today! Success!
You have officially converted me to all-in-one sleeves. They're really easy to make, and they use practically no extra fabric beyond the bodice. Add the fact that they're comfortable and super cute, and you've got yourself a design winner! Thank you for introducing me to these babies, because they weren't on my radar before I started watching your videos.
Sometimes I feel like I use the /too/ often, but then I flip through my '40s and '50s catalogs and they are ALL OVER the place so I stopped feeling guilty for using them all the time 😅❤
I watched your video on making a sloper from a pattern, the new bodice block one, and then the all in one sleeve dart modification. Then I, a person who has done nothing but make small hand repairs to garments, bought a sloper pattern. I was also considering an adorable late 50s/early 60s pattern but when I looked at it more closely I went "hang on that's just an all in one bodice and a gathered skirt! I don't need no stinkin' pattern!" like a person who knows what they're doing 🤣. However I stand by my decision. Once I have a sewing machine and my own table of doom I'll be unstoppable!
I DID IT, I MADE THE SHIRT!!! I went through the whole process of making the bodice block and have been waiting for my mockup/lining fabric for said project (curse you living in the middle of nowhere), so I decided with the about 1 meter of fabric I had to make this. And it fits and turned out great!!!! you have officially converted me to making my own patterns this was surprisingly easy since I had the block, would have taken me way WAY longer if I hadn't done it. I'd tried to make a block before but it was with self measurements and it came out so weird and wonky and just not it. I'm currently hand stitching the neckline facing down because I want it to be perfect, I'm so happy! It's the best fitting garment I have ever made!
I'm such a fan of all your videos but I particularly liked this shorter explanation of the pattern adjustment! It will be so nice to have this on hand as opposed to looking through the longer project videos to find these explanations
"DID you Miss it??"LOL Thank you for an awesome and Quick show and tell I used to get all nervous thinking of modifying a block to this and Boom it really is so very easy once you have the right blocks Again You are awesome..
Your videos have always been immensely helpful for taking the terror out of flat pattern drafting. They are my favorite in RUclips! I also wanted to share a book recommendation for those with dart manipulation question: Make Your Own Patterns by Adele Margolis.
You may never read this but, thank you so much for giving me the courage to make a block that fits me. I finally have one, YEAH!!!! I have completed the all in one block and I am loving my new skills and the world of patterns I can make! Again Thank you for sharing your skills😃.
another comment for another watch! I have finally gotten out the block I had made by a local deessmaker and am going to sew it up and check the fit! I have invested in posterboard and muslin and throft store bedsheets and I AM READY!
I want to thank you for all your content. I especially want to thank you for sharing your vintage costume jewelry--seeing you and the fact that you remove clips and screwbacks to earrings has given me the gift of being able to wear some of my mother's and grandmother's pieces that had been just sitting in a drawer. I saw your video and thought, "Well, heck, these aren't any kind of fancy jewelry, but I like them." Boom. Now I wear the earrings all the time and get so many compliments. Thank you!!
I really like garments with this type of faux sleeves. Aside from them being flattering and super easy to put together, I just prefer to have my shoulders covered for sun protection in summer. I'm outside a lot and always carry a largish bag or backpack, which tends to mess with the sunscreen in that area. So sleeves are a must, but short, set-in sleeves are such a hassle and also less comfortable...so this design definitely gets a 10/10 from me. I traced mine from an existing garment, but it's nice, to know the proper technique now! I also like this format of short and to the point videos for this kind of thing. Not, that I won't happily watch the longer ones (I always enjoy listening to your commentary, while you draft and sew), but this is a very handy reference, for when one just wants to revisit a specific technique.
I thrifted a not finished jacket on the weekend and I've never made clothing but figured it was cute and $2 I'd have a crack. Thanks for sleeves! I did sew it together backwards and then sew one in on the wrong side but after finally admitting defeat and watching you put in sleeves I DID IT! Then I made interfacing and lined it so thanks for giving me the confidence to draft the pattern and forge ahead.
Thank you for this tutorial! I had attempted to make an all in one sleeve block myself but the armhole was pretty tight. Now I realize the underarm seam comes out of the bust apex and not the original seam Makes so much more sense! I'm going to try again and once I have the perfect block I also want to make the back wrap dress pattern 😍
This is so easy! I can’t wait to finish my block and make this alteration. One question- if I want the shoulder to angle down more, can I add a tuck or something? I like my sleeves to be a little less square.
You can indeed draw them angled down from the original shoulder tip. The tracing of the original pattern inside sorta shows you where that top seam goes from being a shoulder seam to being a sleeve seam past the shoulder tip, and you can just adjust the angle down from there. The best way to decide on this may be to make a muslin of the full square situation like this, try it on and pin the angle you like best that still gives you enough range of motion to lift your arms and such, and then transfer/trace the exact angle you like back down onto the paper pattern.
I second what Bianca said about making a muslin of this. I tried the same modification on a dress and made the shoulder line TOO sloped; a muslin would have prevented this!
I want to thank you so very much for sharing your knowledge! This was so helpful and I'm amazed how you manage to explain the magic of darts in a way that is not only possible, but easy to understand and to follow. I definitely want to try out this pattern, I love the tops you showed that you made with it. You are amazing at explaining and really, I can't thank you enough. I hope you have a lovely day :)
Thanks so much for the more detailed instructions. I love all your content (especially the hats!) but will rewatch the instructional videos a ridiculous number of times. What a lovely channel and host!
I am looking forward to giving this a try. I don’t have a legitimate “block” yet, still working on that, but I will trace off my latest shirt version and see what happens. Your videos are very inspirational to me and motivate me to try new pattern modifications. Over the past two years I have been teaching myself pattern drafting, fitting, and shirt construction, and I have only begun to understand the vast possibilities. Thank you for producing these videos and for leading by example with the pattern drafting and modifications.
This is amazing. PLEASE Will you tell us how to extend this sleeve cap to make long sleeve? Many of us cannot wear short sleeve. This would be a tremendous help.,
Thank you so much for doing this in a separate video!!!! I know you've gone over it before but I'd have to watch 50 videos to find it, and then would have no time to actually get to work. :p
Thank you!!! So helpful. I was literally trying to remember which of your videos you showed how to do this in last night. Is an all-in-one different from a Doleman (sp?) sleeve?
The dolman, in my patterning book at least, seems to be an exaggeration of the all-in-one, so they have you lower the armhole even further and then have the whole sleeve tilt up to create even more folds under the arm almost like a "batwing" sleeve 🦇
I loved this explanation., especially understanding the apex. The dart I am trying to deal with is one that starts low on the side seam below the waist and continues up in from the apex. There is no adjustment for petite size. I have the concept so i will be taking out my paper and trying,
Thank you for this little tutorial, so helpful! I could really get into these little drafting reviews without the sewing part! Any suggestions on making the sleeve longer? I used an earlier version of this tutorial and my personal block to made an awesome dress. Then I decided to get fancy and made a blouse with a slightly longer sleeve (just added about an inch ) and found that it reduced mobility significantly. I'd love to make a longer sleeve version even an elbow length sleeve as seen in some vintage patterns, but not sure how to solve the mobility issue. Current plans are either adding some width across the back (my block doesn't have a shoulder dart so it's not very wide mid back to start), or making the arm hole larger by either raising the line at the shoulder or lowering at the side seam or both, but don't want to get into batwing territory.
You could try adding a gusset to the underarm, I have seen that on some vintage patterns with long all in one sleeves. Not sure if its what you are looking for but might be worth a try?
Lowering the armhole comes with it's own drawbacks, at least with longer sleeves. It's a common fit issue with modern off the rack blazers and jackets/coats. Paradoxically, a low cut armhole means, the whole garment will move/twist (more), everytime you lift your arms. Gussets are definitely worth considering, though. I do remember something, about this having been an feature in vintage garments as well...but where did I hear about it?
Here's is a short and to the point video, that explains how to fit a regular set-in sleeve for maximum comfort and mobility. ruclips.net/video/GqFiVww0p84/видео.html It still doesn't quite answer your question about this type of sleeve, obviously, but I think, you'll find it helpful anyway, because it explains the fundamentals of 'sleeve ergonomics' so well. It definitely made a light bulb go on in my head, when I watched it for the first time.
Interesting! I have never run into this problem before! I usually just draw them on longer as can be seen in this video from earlier in the year here ruclips.net/video/l_PhhhcLDr8/видео.html
Yeah! I have hunted through your videos trying to find the one that shows how you make this fabulous “all in one bodice/sleeve” I just recently discovered your channel on RUclips & Love, love, love your designs & tutorials. Thanks for such outstanding information!
So cool! Last Wednesday I made a mock up of Style pattern 2248 out of a cotton bedsheet. All in one sleeves are a comfort revelation! You could not get me out of that old bedsheet dress 😝 Also I’m about to hem with bias tape 😎 because hell-yeah! What is the reason for the raising of the shoulder?
The 1/4" up from the shoulder is because...that's what my old pattern drafting book said to do and I still do it 😅 Probably gives a little more mobility to the sleeve I'd guess!
excellent video! My bust is too big for these to be nice most of the time, but man I would love not having to set a sleeve. It just leaves weird foldiness that I don't like.
Thank you for this video. I have been searching for a video on this subject. Some people call this a “dropped shoulder” (at least I think that term refers to this type of top), and I couldn’t find any how to videos like this. I like this style for summer because I’m old and hate how I look in sleeveless things, but this all in one/dropped shoulder is as cool as sleeveless but covers the upper arm enough. I don’t draw very well. But I now know how to take a “regular” blouse bodice pattern and change it to an all in one bodice-sleeve. Oh- question: the vertical end-of-sleeve line- is it at a 90 degree angle to the (new) shoulder line? And to make that sleeve part longer, you just extend the shoulder line further out from the neck and then add to the curved line of the (under arm) sleeve bottom out from the side seam, to meet the vertical line? Thank you. I have a silk top that I love but don’t know what pattern I used over 8 years ago and I want to make more tops like it (I’m leery of my ability to clone it).
I am 53 and a lover of vintage style. I like a slightly longer sleeve to cover the troublesome tops of my arms. Could I make the sleeve slightly longer on this block? Can you advise of any pitfalls that may encounter? Thanks for your videos, I have been sewing for years but never been able to pattern draft until your tutorials. They are some informative and real, no fuss or hype, I love them.
I'm curious, would you still be able to sew on a separate long sleeve to this? How would you draft that? Or, more specifically, a sleeve to drop shoulder pattern, but isn't this kind of a drop shoulder. If you could find the time to show this it'd be awesome. Thanx so much for everything you do here, hugely appreciated.
Thank you! You can both attach a sleeve to this, and also just draw this pattern's sleeve longer, the later of which I show in this video here ruclips.net/video/poeZoeVV51k/видео.html
Question, I just tried to make this all in one from my block, my basic front block has four darts including a shoulder and armhole dart. Do I need to do anything with them or just leave them as fullness for the sleeves? I am so happy to finally get this information about the all in one. Thank you so much!!!!!!!
Interesting question! Usually when I am drafting from instructions that have a differently darted starting block than mine, some of my '40s books start with a single dart (a big waist dart) block for example, I first make my block match theirs, (so in this example case, move the side dart into the waist to get one big waist dart) so that I have the "same" style of block to start with and don't worry about anything going wonky! It is hard for me to say if this all-in-one method would work starting with more darts than two without looking at it I'm afraid! I would say try closing the shoulder and side dart into the armhole dart, or splitting the fullness of those between the waist and armhole dart before drawing on the all in one.
I love your videos, so to the point. I have watched this video a million times (slight exaggeration). I have made several muslins and the sleeves are too tight and the back has more fabric. If I sew the shoulder seems together the back part of the sleeve has a ripple when laying flat. Is this ok?? Thanks
You've gotten into my brain: I'm watching this (while folding laundry) in preparation to make a modified 1-hour-dress with French darts! 'How To Make a Bodice Block' is next!
Extra video, yay! Looking forward to that, as always! This is great! Again, you've unravelled the mysteries of the universe and made them accessible to us lesser mortals. One query, how do I make sure the arm scye isn't too large? I hate a gaping arm hole that shows the underarm blubber when I lift my arm.
Thank you Kaytie! I have never had a problem with this 2" lowering, but perhaps a mock up to see if you like it or a little less, this is just what I learned in my classes/textbook!
I dont know why but my mock up isn't looking right and I can't decide if I drafted it wrong from my block or that this style doesn't suit me. I am going to try a cap sleeve on my standard block since they have the same vibe and that style was also common.
This was very useful, thank you! I have 2 questions: why did you raise the armline, is that something I should be doing? And does the grown-in sleeve should have the join below armpit, or ist this for aesthetic? I made soem all-in-one tops recently and I'm not fully happy so I wonder what can I change
this does indeed look easy, but a question: would it also be possible to just angle the bust dart down a bit in order to accommodate the all-in-one sleeve? I have some 1950s patterns that have both the bust dart and the kimono sleeve, so I know it is possible, just wouldn't know how to draft it from scratch.
I would almost think it would be easier to draft the all in one just like this video, then split the waist dart in two to make a "new" side dart if you wanted one there still. The side dart is used in making the all-in-one sleeve for the sake of movement, the extra ease it creates by moving that dart into the sleeve is essential to move the arms forward freely. Also, the less darts you have to sew, the faster the project gets done anyhow 😅
RIP. I need to try your method to draft my bodice block. I used the method in a book I have ("The Costume Technician's handbook") and ... let's just say that my bodice block looks all sorts of wonky. I haven't even gotten to the mock-up stage of the all in one sleeve because my bust dart is SO HUGE that moving that much fullness around leaves me with very strange shapes. To give you an idea, before any dart manipulation, when I fold the bust dart down towards the waist, the dart triangle is about as long as the side seam from bust dart to waist. 🤦♀️ Not sure if I'll get better results with a different method of drafting, but it's worth a shot. Just for grins (and to see what in the world I ended up with), I might just do a mock up of the monstrosity I concocted. Who knows? Maybe I did it right and my proportions are making me second guess myself. 🤷♀️
Thank you! This is my first attempt to make this kind of top. I have some trouble with a back shoulder dart, what should I do whit it? I am thinking that maybe it is best to just ignore it.
Hi Bianca, love this, so better than the block i had before, it takes my rounded shoulder into acount more somehow! Question - how long do you think the sleeve could be extended by before you get serious mobility issues? Could it be gathered into a cuff at the elbow maybe? Struggling to find a dolman block that has different front and backs that works for rounded shoulder. Love your channel, thanky you
Thank you Stella! I haven't played with long sleeves of this too too much, but I did in this video if you'd like to see ruclips.net/video/l_PhhhcLDr8/видео.html
Perfect, i just needed permission to have a curved back shoulder line!, slashing and removing fullness of the back sleeve to match front was an aha moment. I am away at the moment and all i can think of is sewing, will have to watch some more videos of you doing it instead.... thank you
My bodice block has a shoulder dart on the back. How would you suggest handling this on an all-in-one sleeve? Leave it as is? Pivot the entire thing to the armscye? Ease it out between the armscye, shoulder, and neck?
It does indeed get shifted into the armscye, I snapped a quick picture of the bit from my drafting book for reference here www.pinterest.com/pin/460563499400823649 It seems they have you blend it into the back armscye where it will serve as a bit of extra movement ease in the sleeve ✨
I sometimes put a shirt on inside out so I can pin the wrong side of the fabric without stabbing myself when trying to adjust the fit (eg. add darts to) an existing top. The problem is that since cancer surgery, I am no longer symmetrical and turning a shirt inside out puts the right side on the left and the left side on the right compared to when you turn it right side out again. I also have some scoliosis so I am not even symmetrical from the back! I hope this isn't confusing. How do you deal with asymmetry of the 'cones' short of reconstruction surgery. I don't own a sewing form so I can't try to fit things that way.This tutorial is brilliant by the way and I am an engineer. :)
I may have missed it - does the bodice block you're using already include a seam allowance, or do you add onto the fabric you're working with when you start a project? I'm new here, but I like it so far ❤️
Welcome, and thank you! Yes indeed my blocks already have seam allowance, I only have to add any if I cut into them for a change, adding a style line or seaming or such 🧵
Hello! I used your procedure to make an all in one. I am a DDD bust, and when I created the all in one block my sleeves were absolutely huge! Do you have an alternative or suggestion on how to make an all in one for larger busts? Thank you!
Hmm! I myself am a DD and haven't had anything suuuper wonky happen. Were the size of your waist and side darts similar in width to start off with? As in, on your block you start with, are the triangles of fullness a similar or the same amount at the side and waist dart? If instead the waist dart is thinner and the side dart quite large, I can see that creating a "too wide" shape for the sleeve of this. Perhaps try moving some of the fullness from the side dart into the waist dart and closing the smaller side dart into the all-in-one sleeve.
I tried this a year ago when you first put the video out, failed so bad I didn't try again for a year, tried again, and failed again. But I kept going and figured out what I had done wrong (or rather, what I needed to change on my basic block for this modification to work)! I figured I'd comment in case anyone else had my same struggles.
- Bianca's front bodice block appears to have the side seam almost parallel to the center seam. I had to swing some of my side dart to my waist dart for my block to match.
- Bianca's front and back bodice blocks appear to be a similar width. My front block was a full 3" wider than my back block. I moved 1.5" from my front block to my back block to make them more similar
- Bianca doesn't mention it in her voice-over, but it looks like the length of the "sleeve" part of the all-in-one sleeve shoulder seam is approximately equal to the "shoulder" part of the all-in-one sleeve shoulder seam.
Before I fixed these three things, I had to put a giant swoopy curve in the arm opening because otherwise, even if I came straight up from the side seam and didn't add any extra, the shoulder seam still came nearly to my elbow. Fixing these three things, my all-in-one blocks look similar to Bianca's. I whipped out a wrap-front shirt using it over the past couple of nights, and I'm wearing it to work today! Success!
I was surprised at how short the video was before watching. After watching? Huh didn't need to be any longer. As always you da best
You have officially converted me to all-in-one sleeves. They're really easy to make, and they use practically no extra fabric beyond the bodice. Add the fact that they're comfortable and super cute, and you've got yourself a design winner! Thank you for introducing me to these babies, because they weren't on my radar before I started watching your videos.
Just why do pattern companies make us struggle with set-in cap sleeves and such, when there's such an easy and economical solution?
Sometimes I feel like I use the /too/ often, but then I flip through my '40s and '50s catalogs and they are ALL OVER the place so I stopped feeling guilty for using them all the time 😅❤
I watched your video on making a sloper from a pattern, the new bodice block one, and then the all in one sleeve dart modification. Then I, a person who has done nothing but make small hand repairs to garments, bought a sloper pattern. I was also considering an adorable late 50s/early 60s pattern but when I looked at it more closely I went "hang on that's just an all in one bodice and a gathered skirt! I don't need no stinkin' pattern!" like a person who knows what they're doing 🤣. However I stand by my decision. Once I have a sewing machine and my own table of doom I'll be unstoppable!
You've got this! Training the eye like that is the key to seeing all designs are indeed possible!
I DID IT, I MADE THE SHIRT!!! I went through the whole process of making the bodice block and have been waiting for my mockup/lining fabric for said project (curse you living in the middle of nowhere), so I decided with the about 1 meter of fabric I had to make this. And it fits and turned out great!!!!
you have officially converted me to making my own patterns this was surprisingly easy since I had the block, would have taken me way WAY longer if I hadn't done it.
I'd tried to make a block before but it was with self measurements and it came out so weird and wonky and just not it. I'm currently hand stitching the neckline facing down because I want it to be perfect, I'm so happy! It's the best fitting garment I have ever made!
I'm such a fan of all your videos but I particularly liked this shorter explanation of the pattern adjustment! It will be so nice to have this on hand as opposed to looking through the longer project videos to find these explanations
Thank you Nadja!
"DID you Miss it??"LOL Thank you for an awesome and Quick show and tell I used to get all nervous thinking of modifying a block to this and Boom it really is so very easy once you have the right blocks Again You are awesome..
Thanks Alexandra! ❤
Your videos have always been immensely helpful for taking the terror out of flat pattern drafting. They are my favorite in RUclips! I also wanted to share a book recommendation for those with dart manipulation question: Make Your Own Patterns by Adele Margolis.
Thank you Kate! ❤
You may never read this but, thank you so much for giving me the courage to make a block that fits me. I finally have one, YEAH!!!! I have completed the all in one block and I am loving my new skills and the world of patterns I can make! Again Thank you for sharing your skills😃.
Excellent work!! Hope you're having a great time drafting all the things!! ✨
Did you miss it? Yes! I looked down at my sewing for a nanosecond and whoosh. Thank goodness for the tap back option 🤣
Love how efficient and straight forward your videos are.
Thank you!
Thanks for posting this- I know you have covered the all-in-one sleeve before, but it’s nice to have a quick way to reference!
Magic. I'm definitely going to try this. You have a great sounding voice Bianca. You could be a voice over in the movies or on the radio. 💐
Thank you Gemma! I'd love to do voice work actually, but I haven't the faintest how one gets into that 😂
Wow, that is great! It is very helpful. If I would have known that is so easy to add the sleeve to the bodice block, I would have done it a while ago!
And super easy to sew too, no setting in sleeves wahoo!
Thank you for showing us how to manipulate the darts to make an ALL-IN-ONE SLEEVES. Much love and I must say, I love them a lot too.
Thank you Diana!
Eight minutes! Can it really be that easy? Brilliant as always.
Thanks Michelle! It's really that simple 😅
another comment for another watch! I have finally gotten out the block I had made by a local deessmaker and am going to sew it up and check the fit!
I have invested in posterboard and muslin and throft store bedsheets and I
AM
READY!
I want to thank you for all your content. I especially want to thank you for sharing your vintage costume jewelry--seeing you and the fact that you remove clips and screwbacks to earrings has given me the gift of being able to wear some of my mother's and grandmother's pieces that had been just sitting in a drawer. I saw your video and thought, "Well, heck, these aren't any kind of fancy jewelry, but I like them." Boom. Now I wear the earrings all the time and get so many compliments. Thank you!!
Thank you Elaine! Things are meant to be enjoyed I figure 😅
This is so great. I kept going back longer pattern drafting for this instruction but it’s awesome you put it in a little short reference one.
Thank you Barbie!
Wow., You weren't kidding! That was really easy!
I really like garments with this type of faux sleeves. Aside from them being flattering and super easy to put together, I just prefer to have my shoulders covered for sun protection in summer. I'm outside a lot and always carry a largish bag or backpack, which tends to mess with the sunscreen in that area. So sleeves are a must, but short, set-in sleeves are such a hassle and also less comfortable...so this design definitely gets a 10/10 from me.
I traced mine from an existing garment, but it's nice, to know the proper technique now!
I also like this format of short and to the point videos for this kind of thing. Not, that I won't happily watch the longer ones (I always enjoy listening to your commentary, while you draft and sew), but this is a very handy reference, for when one just wants to revisit a specific technique.
Thank you Rara! I've got to start breaking down techniques so I don't overload my closet again ha 😂
I love short technique video's like this!
I thrifted a not finished jacket on the weekend and I've never made clothing but figured it was cute and $2 I'd have a crack. Thanks for sleeves! I did sew it together backwards and then sew one in on the wrong side but after finally admitting defeat and watching you put in sleeves I DID IT! Then I made interfacing and lined it so thanks for giving me the confidence to draft the pattern and forge ahead.
Thank you for this tutorial! I had attempted to make an all in one sleeve block myself but the armhole was pretty tight. Now I realize the underarm seam comes out of the bust apex and not the original seam
Makes so much more sense! I'm going to try again and once I have the perfect block I also want to make the back wrap dress pattern 😍
This is so easy! I can’t wait to finish my block and make this alteration. One question- if I want the shoulder to angle down more, can I add a tuck or something? I like my sleeves to be a little less square.
You can indeed draw them angled down from the original shoulder tip. The tracing of the original pattern inside sorta shows you where that top seam goes from being a shoulder seam to being a sleeve seam past the shoulder tip, and you can just adjust the angle down from there. The best way to decide on this may be to make a muslin of the full square situation like this, try it on and pin the angle you like best that still gives you enough range of motion to lift your arms and such, and then transfer/trace the exact angle you like back down onto the paper pattern.
I second what Bianca said about making a muslin of this. I tried the same modification on a dress and made the shoulder line TOO sloped; a muslin would have prevented this!
I’m convinced darts are magical 😆 I’m watching these while I work and now I just want to go sew or more appropriately go work on making a block
I want to thank you so very much for sharing your knowledge! This was so helpful and I'm amazed how you manage to explain the magic of darts in a way that is not only possible, but easy to understand and to follow. I definitely want to try out this pattern, I love the tops you showed that you made with it. You are amazing at explaining and really, I can't thank you enough. I hope you have a lovely day :)
Thanks so much for the more detailed instructions. I love all your content (especially the hats!) but will rewatch the instructional videos a ridiculous number of times. What a lovely channel and host!
Thank you so much!
I am looking forward to giving this a try. I don’t have a legitimate “block” yet, still working on that, but I will trace off my latest shirt version and see what happens. Your videos are very inspirational to me and motivate me to try new pattern modifications. Over the past two years I have been teaching myself pattern drafting, fitting, and shirt construction, and I have only begun to understand the vast possibilities. Thank you for producing these videos and for leading by example with the pattern drafting and modifications.
This is amazing.
PLEASE
Will you tell us how to extend this sleeve cap to make long sleeve?
Many of us cannot wear short sleeve. This would be a tremendous help.,
Thank you! I show how to make these long in my house coat video here if you'd like to see ruclips.net/video/l_PhhhcLDr8/видео.html
Great idea to make a short video on this simple conversion :) It will be super easy to link to.
Brilliant . Just brilliant
Thank you!!! i love the all in one sleeve pattern and its nice to have this short vid to reference back to when i finish making my block pattern!
Thank you so much for doing this in a separate video!!!! I know you've gone over it before but I'd have to watch 50 videos to find it, and then would have no time to actually get to work. :p
Yes! Thank you for this video! I reference your other all in one sleeve dress videos ALL THE TIME so it’s is a super handy one to have. Thank you!!!
I love the fabulously practical ( and gorgeous!) pattern options you share with us. Thanks for sharing your pattern drafting genius!
2 videos this week, cool!
Thank you!!! So helpful. I was literally trying to remember which of your videos you showed how to do this in last night.
Is an all-in-one different from a Doleman (sp?) sleeve?
The dolman, in my patterning book at least, seems to be an exaggeration of the all-in-one, so they have you lower the armhole even further and then have the whole sleeve tilt up to create even more folds under the arm almost like a "batwing" sleeve 🦇
Thank you!! Can't believe how easy this looks ... now to try it myself!!
Fantastic to have a simple reference video like this! Thank you SO much Bianca.
OMG It's so easy. And it looks so stylish. Excellent explanation, thank you very much.
Thank you Artemisa! It is simple indeed!
I loved this explanation., especially understanding the apex. The dart I am trying to deal with is one that starts low on the side seam below the waist and continues up in from the apex. There is no adjustment for petite size. I have the concept so i will be taking out my paper and trying,
hi how are you? nice tricks you have on your sleeves :)
I am sticking with you you work it simple
Thank you for showing this in a dedicated vlog. You always make this look so easy.
YAAAHS! I've been waiting for this tutorial!!! Thanks SO MUCH!
Thank you for this little tutorial, so helpful! I could really get into these little drafting reviews without the sewing part! Any suggestions on making the sleeve longer? I used an earlier version of this tutorial and my personal block to made an awesome dress. Then I decided to get fancy and made a blouse with a slightly longer sleeve (just added about an inch ) and found that it reduced mobility significantly. I'd love to make a longer sleeve version even an elbow length sleeve as seen in some vintage patterns, but not sure how to solve the mobility issue. Current plans are either adding some width across the back (my block doesn't have a shoulder dart so it's not very wide mid back to start), or making the arm hole larger by either raising the line at the shoulder or lowering at the side seam or both, but don't want to get into batwing territory.
You could try adding a gusset to the underarm, I have seen that on some vintage patterns with long all in one sleeves. Not sure if its what you are looking for but might be worth a try?
Lowering the armhole comes with it's own drawbacks, at least with longer sleeves.
It's a common fit issue with modern off the rack blazers and jackets/coats. Paradoxically, a low cut armhole means, the whole garment will move/twist (more), everytime you lift your arms.
Gussets are definitely worth considering, though. I do remember something, about this having been an feature in vintage garments as well...but where did I hear about it?
Here's is a short and to the point video, that explains how to fit a regular set-in sleeve for maximum comfort and mobility.
ruclips.net/video/GqFiVww0p84/видео.html
It still doesn't quite answer your question about this type of sleeve, obviously, but I think, you'll find it helpful anyway, because it explains the fundamentals of 'sleeve ergonomics' so well.
It definitely made a light bulb go on in my head, when I watched it for the first time.
Interesting! I have never run into this problem before! I usually just draw them on longer as can be seen in this video from earlier in the year here ruclips.net/video/l_PhhhcLDr8/видео.html
Yeah! I have hunted through your videos trying to find the one that shows how you make this fabulous “all in one bodice/sleeve” I just recently discovered your channel on RUclips & Love, love, love your designs & tutorials. Thanks for such outstanding information!
Thank you Diana!
I DID! I BLINKED!! I MISSED IT 😂 I had to rewind 🤣🤣🤣
Look out it's fast!! 😂✨
I have been looking for your card block patterns. Please explain how to make them.
❤❤ thank you! Appreciate how easy you make it for us new sewists!
Thank you once again for your clear, easy instruction. Very motivating!
Thank you Gary!
Your work is incredible.
So cool! Last Wednesday I made a mock up of Style pattern 2248 out of a cotton bedsheet. All in one sleeves are a comfort revelation! You could not get me out of that old bedsheet dress 😝 Also I’m about to hem with bias tape 😎 because hell-yeah! What is the reason for the raising of the shoulder?
The 1/4" up from the shoulder is because...that's what my old pattern drafting book said to do and I still do it 😅 Probably gives a little more mobility to the sleeve I'd guess!
Thanks for sharing ; such a practical sleeve option
You are a genious and explaining this stuff. Glad I tripped over your videos!
Thanks for doing these basics. Really appreciate them.
excellent video! My bust is too big for these to be nice most of the time, but man I would love not having to set a sleeve. It just leaves weird foldiness that I don't like.
Your channel is wonderful!
Love this block. Keep fingers crossed, making first all in one block for a dress today!!!!
Thank you Ina!
Hi ,here's a new subscriber From 🇺🇸 (USA)
Hello there!
I am too excited!
Thank you for this video. I have been searching for a video on this subject. Some people call this a “dropped shoulder” (at least I think that term refers to this type of top), and I couldn’t find any how to videos like this. I like this style for summer because I’m old and hate how I look in sleeveless things, but this all in one/dropped shoulder is as cool as sleeveless but covers the upper arm enough. I don’t draw very well. But I now know how to take a “regular” blouse bodice pattern and change it to an all in one bodice-sleeve. Oh- question: the vertical end-of-sleeve line- is it at a 90 degree angle to the (new) shoulder line? And to make that sleeve part longer, you just extend the shoulder line further out from the neck and then add to the curved line of the (under arm) sleeve bottom out from the side seam, to meet the vertical line? Thank you. I have a silk top that I love but don’t know what pattern I used over 8 years ago and I want to make more tops like it (I’m leery of my ability to clone it).
I'm shocked! Mind-blowing. Thank you very much 💓💓💓
Thanks Liv!
I did blink and miss it! Thanks for asking.
I am 53 and a lover of vintage style. I like a slightly longer sleeve to cover the troublesome tops of my arms. Could I make the sleeve slightly longer on this block? Can you advise of any pitfalls that may encounter? Thanks for your videos, I have been sewing for years but never been able to pattern draft until your tutorials. They are some informative and real, no fuss or hype, I love them.
Thank you! I have made a long sleeve version of this sleeve before which can be seen in this video ruclips.net/video/poeZoeVV51k/видео.html
,INCRÍVEL....ESPETACULAR...MARAVILHOSA
I am going to make that soon
I'm curious, would you still be able to sew on a separate long sleeve to this? How would you draft that? Or, more specifically, a sleeve to drop shoulder pattern, but isn't this kind of a drop shoulder. If you could find the time to show this it'd be awesome. Thanx so much for everything you do here, hugely appreciated.
Thank you! You can both attach a sleeve to this, and also just draw this pattern's sleeve longer, the later of which I show in this video here ruclips.net/video/poeZoeVV51k/видео.html
Thanks for sharing your technique, I definitely want to give this a try 😁
Very helpful. Instructions were clear. Thanks.
Thank you!
This video was just what I was looking for! Thanks
This was really helpful! Sorry I didn't catch it, but does the 1½ inch extension from the armhole already include seam allowance?
Question, I just tried to make this all in one from my block, my basic front block has four darts including a shoulder and armhole dart. Do I need to do anything with them or just leave them as fullness for the sleeves? I am so happy to finally get this information about the all in one. Thank you so much!!!!!!!
Interesting question! Usually when I am drafting from instructions that have a differently darted starting block than mine, some of my '40s books start with a single dart (a big waist dart) block for example, I first make my block match theirs, (so in this example case, move the side dart into the waist to get one big waist dart) so that I have the "same" style of block to start with and don't worry about anything going wonky! It is hard for me to say if this all-in-one method would work starting with more darts than two without looking at it I'm afraid! I would say try closing the shoulder and side dart into the armhole dart, or splitting the fullness of those between the waist and armhole dart before drawing on the all in one.
I love your videos, so to the point. I have watched this video a million times (slight exaggeration). I have made several muslins and the sleeves are too tight and the back has more fabric. If I sew the shoulder seems together the back part of the sleeve has a ripple when laying flat. Is this ok?? Thanks
You've gotten into my brain: I'm watching this (while folding laundry) in preparation to make a modified 1-hour-dress with French darts! 'How To Make a Bodice Block' is next!
Great tutorial! Thanks!
Thank you Lena!
This series is amazing 💕
Thank you!
Amazing! These videos are FANTASTIC…thank you for sharing your knowledge
Thank you Brenda!
Extra video, yay! Looking forward to that, as always!
This is great! Again, you've unravelled the mysteries of the universe and made them accessible to us lesser mortals. One query, how do I make sure the arm scye isn't too large? I hate a gaping arm hole that shows the underarm blubber when I lift my arm.
Thank you Kaytie! I have never had a problem with this 2" lowering, but perhaps a mock up to see if you like it or a little less, this is just what I learned in my classes/textbook!
I dont know why but my mock up isn't looking right and I can't decide if I drafted it wrong from my block or that this style doesn't suit me. I am going to try a cap sleeve on my standard block since they have the same vibe and that style was also common.
This was very useful, thank you! I have 2 questions: why did you raise the armline, is that something I should be doing? And does the grown-in sleeve should have the join below armpit, or ist this for aesthetic? I made soem all-in-one tops recently and I'm not fully happy so I wonder what can I change
Love you and your videos. Question can this work in longer length sleeve..3/4 or full? Thanks 🙏
Thank you! They can yes, I show them in this video here ruclips.net/video/poeZoeVV51k/видео.html
And…magic 😂 thank you for sharing
this does indeed look easy, but a question: would it also be possible to just angle the bust dart down a bit in order to accommodate the all-in-one sleeve? I have some 1950s patterns that have both the bust dart and the kimono sleeve, so I know it is possible, just wouldn't know how to draft it from scratch.
I would almost think it would be easier to draft the all in one just like this video, then split the waist dart in two to make a "new" side dart if you wanted one there still. The side dart is used in making the all-in-one sleeve for the sake of movement, the extra ease it creates by moving that dart into the sleeve is essential to move the arms forward freely. Also, the less darts you have to sew, the faster the project gets done anyhow 😅
RIP. I need to try your method to draft my bodice block. I used the method in a book I have ("The Costume Technician's handbook") and ... let's just say that my bodice block looks all sorts of wonky. I haven't even gotten to the mock-up stage of the all in one sleeve because my bust dart is SO HUGE that moving that much fullness around leaves me with very strange shapes.
To give you an idea, before any dart manipulation, when I fold the bust dart down towards the waist, the dart triangle is about as long as the side seam from bust dart to waist. 🤦♀️
Not sure if I'll get better results with a different method of drafting, but it's worth a shot.
Just for grins (and to see what in the world I ended up with), I might just do a mock up of the monstrosity I concocted. Who knows? Maybe I did it right and my proportions are making me second guess myself. 🤷♀️
Thank you! This is my first attempt to make this kind of top. I have some trouble with a back shoulder dart, what should I do whit it? I am thinking that maybe it is best to just ignore it.
I usually forget and therefore ignore it yes 😅
Thank you!!! 💚💚💚
Thank you for sharing 🐝
Thanks sooo much for sharing!!❤️
Hi Bianca, love this, so better than the block i had before, it takes my rounded shoulder into acount more somehow! Question - how long do you think the sleeve could be extended by before you get serious mobility issues? Could it be gathered into a cuff at the elbow maybe? Struggling to find a dolman block that has different front and backs that works for rounded shoulder. Love your channel, thanky you
Thank you Stella! I haven't played with long sleeves of this too too much, but I did in this video if you'd like to see ruclips.net/video/l_PhhhcLDr8/видео.html
Perfect, i just needed permission to have a curved back shoulder line!, slashing and removing fullness of the back sleeve to match front was an aha moment. I am away at the moment and all i can think of is sewing, will have to watch some more videos of you doing it instead.... thank you
My bodice block has a shoulder dart on the back. How would you suggest handling this on an all-in-one sleeve? Leave it as is? Pivot the entire thing to the armscye? Ease it out between the armscye, shoulder, and neck?
It does indeed get shifted into the armscye, I snapped a quick picture of the bit from my drafting book for reference here www.pinterest.com/pin/460563499400823649 It seems they have you blend it into the back armscye where it will serve as a bit of extra movement ease in the sleeve ✨
@@TheClosetHistorian Thanks!
This is so neat! I was wondering, what would happen if you made the sleeve length longer? Does it get restrictive?
Thank you Sarah! You can see a longer sleeved version of this in my house coat video as it works quite well ruclips.net/video/l_PhhhcLDr8/видео.html
What do you do if you want an elbow length or long sleeve? How do you angle the underarm seam?
ruclips.net/video/poeZoeVV51k/видео.html I have done long versions before as well!
Do you have to make another block if you gain weight?
I sometimes put a shirt on inside out so I can pin the wrong side of the fabric without stabbing myself when trying to adjust the fit (eg. add darts to) an existing top. The problem is that since cancer surgery, I am no longer symmetrical and turning a shirt inside out puts the right side on the left and the left side on the right compared to when you turn it right side out again. I also have some scoliosis so I am not even symmetrical from the back! I hope this isn't confusing. How do you deal with asymmetry of the 'cones' short of reconstruction surgery. I don't own a sewing form so I can't try to fit things that way.This tutorial is brilliant by the way and I am an engineer. :)
Oops! RUclips had fast forwarded me to the next video without me noticing. I meant to post this comment to the darts tutorial! Sorry about that!
I may have missed it - does the bodice block you're using already include a seam allowance, or do you add onto the fabric you're working with when you start a project?
I'm new here, but I like it so far ❤️
Welcome, and thank you! Yes indeed my blocks already have seam allowance, I only have to add any if I cut into them for a change, adding a style line or seaming or such 🧵
That is super handy! Thank you! Sew on, sistah 🧵🧷
Could you use this for a drop sleeve or is that a different thing entirely?
I love your channel!
Thank you!
Hello! I used your procedure to make an all in one. I am a DDD bust, and when I created the all in one block my sleeves were absolutely huge! Do you have an alternative or suggestion on how to make an all in one for larger busts? Thank you!
Hmm! I myself am a DD and haven't had anything suuuper wonky happen. Were the size of your waist and side darts similar in width to start off with? As in, on your block you start with, are the triangles of fullness a similar or the same amount at the side and waist dart? If instead the waist dart is thinner and the side dart quite large, I can see that creating a "too wide" shape for the sleeve of this. Perhaps try moving some of the fullness from the side dart into the waist dart and closing the smaller side dart into the all-in-one sleeve.
@@TheClosetHistorian indeed, my darts were not similar in size. So, I followed your suggestion and, voila!, it worked. Thank you.
The math of patterning