I've been missing this for so long , I'm happy to get back to it! Of course been a healthy dose of 3DPRINTSOS to keep me satiated until my return lol thank you brother !
So much love so far and I really appreciate, it means so much! I am so happy to be back and I cannot wait to start working on more videos!! I appreciate you taking the time to welcome me back !!
Woah really! I had emailed them so long ago about it and they never responded with what their plans for it would be. It seemed like an odd omission , glad it's been added.
I purchased this today then got hit with a bit of buyers remorse from seeing some of the cons other reviewers delved into, namely the belt tensioning, build plate shroud issue you talked about, (other reviewers neglected to mention the shroud was removable), and the weird load/unload procedure that you skipped on? But after seeing your video i feel more confident in my choice the ability to use the camera in a meaningful way vs just taking Timelapse or live view (as if i could do much while driving somewhere) is really awesome! The bed plate being less finicky without the shroud is nice to hear too, the only worry now is the tensioners but I’m confident there will be tinkering to fix that. Looks like my second and most expensive printer purchase should be a good one! Thanks!
I think once you get this machine up and running you won't have any buyers remorse. At a base level this printer is easy to setup and will start off giving you great prints with minimal effort. Really the hardest part with these printers is understanding how to use a slicer, but if you have some experience with that alread, it should be a piece of cake. For the belt tensioners I never had an issue with them. Mine came at a good tension from the factory and I didn't need to make any adjustments. The fact that the tensioners are only held in by a set of 2 top screws (instead of all 4) seems like it could be an issue, but I haven't run into one yet. Tensioning them is supposed to be easy: release the tension, run the printhead by hand, resevjre the tension. Again, I haven't had to go through the process yet but I'm confident we should have some control on the tension of these belts. The load/unload I was gonna touch on but it's just something that hit the cutting room floor because the video was already long. I sort of mention it in the wishlist section at the end. The reason I didn't stress to have it make the final cut was that this machine is using Klipper and we can just create our own load/unload macros as we see fit. And we should be able to hijack whatever their macro is for load unload through the touchscreen and just supplant it with ours. So that issue should be able to be alleviated client side. If you're interested I could share a load unload macro on using. Other than that this thing should be solid for you, it sort of just works. I wish there was some form of filtration, but to be honest the best form is to vent the chamber fumes outside which is never going to come stock. Hope this helps and let me know if you want a load unload macro!
@@PrintsLeo3D a macro for that would be awesome! And again easing my mind thank you! For filtration i actually had it in my mind to print some sort of vent tube to my window, or attachment for something like a like a flexible cold air intake pipe from a car since I’ve got one lying around! I saw other reviews mentioning carbon filter etc and figured just not dealing with the fumes in my apartment at all would probably be better.
Thank you, thank you, happy to be back!! Can't wait to start getting back into the swing with some new modification and upgrade videos. I appreciate the support !
First timing seeing one of your videos, a really nice detailed review, i would love to see a video on how you add octoeverywhere to this machine. Thank you
Well you are in luck! That is going to be my next video and I am hoping to have it out in a few weeks! Thank you much for the kind words, it's what keeps this channel going.
Johnathan so happy to hear that! This printer does not ask a lot from you at all either. So you can use it while you are learning how Klipper works, which is such a great feature. If you need any advice while going forward with Klipper please let me know and I'd be happy to help. Thanks!
Good to see you again! I love what you do. Your videos helped me so much in the past. Great video once again. I own an X-plus 3 and X-Smart 3. I love the brand. Premium quality!
Louis, thank you! I have to say a large reason I am so positive about this printer is because of the experiences I have had with their other offerings, which it seems you're familiar with yourself. They have been rock solid machines, and the company seems to stand behind what they put out there. Happy to hear you're rocking some of their other printers already and I'm thankful for your comment. Cheers!
Bruce there absolutely is! Because we're using Klipper we get all of it's internal macros available to us, and PID tune is one of them. Whenever you want to PID tune the bed or the extruder you just need to send one of these commands (outside of a print): PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=heater_bed TARGET=(input_temp) or PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=extruder TARGET=(input_temp) ex. PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=extruder TARGET=210 -- What I usually do is add a quick macro to one of my configs and it makes this command into a button on your printer's home page that you can simply input the temp and then click! It's super simple. This is the macro: [gcode_macro PIDtuneHOTEND] gcode: {% set TEMP = params.TEMP|default(200)|float %} PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=extruder TARGET={TEMP} [gcode_macro PIDtuneBED] gcode: {% set TEMP = params.TEMP|default(60)|float %} PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=heater_bed TARGET={TEMP} ---- If you have any questions on how to implement this let me know!
That's unfortunate but at least you have one coming. I'm sure that will make it all the more special when it arrives! Good luck and have fun printing with it!
Great Review Leo, new here but a vet in 3D print space. Klippered all my machines apart from my ender 3 pro (OG) , So far this Qidi Q1 pro has impressed me no end, what a tool got octoeverywhere on mine working fine, and had to SSH to get the time and date on the MKS board correct. Only issue I have at present is when printing with the heated chamber on for ABS ASA etc, the printer crashes at random mid job, now I'm not sure if it is funky G-code or the MKS controller getting a little hot? My slicer is Orca 2.0 beta and PETG PLA print amazingly well so not sure what's up. I have e-mailed Qidi support so watch this space. Edit...! Not hard from Qidi yet but not been long so no bother... The issue is the MKSpi is reaching 95oC and thermal shutdown watched it in putty creep up then error out with thermal protection shutdown. The little fan either ain't working or not enough to cool the main board. Will update once I fix it , and I will fix it!!
Paul it sounds like we are doing the exact same thing to our Q1s! I got OctoEverywhere (OE) on this as well and I was even able to correct the clock issue directly through some prompts on OEs website. Which was easier than when I had to do some add-ons to the XMax3 which also had a clock issue! I haven't had any overheating issues as of late thankfully. I believe the MKSpi board is the printer head board (but I could be wrong), and I don't believe there's a fan to cool it properly. What is the chamber temperature reaching during these prints ? I would say to remove the back cover and maybe get some more airflow into that board but I'm afraid that may open you up to some other areas (by exposing the board). I would love to hear how the issues presents itself and how you end up tackling it. Keep me in the loop lol? Thanks
@@PrintsLeo3D Hi Leo, fixed it temps didn't breach 84oC max 80 while printing. Chamber I have set to 60 and it stays there no issue. With the back off temps never broke 65 on the mainboard. (Chamber took an age to warm though). Your right on the MKSpi I was just generalising the Qidi mainbaord has this element built in I believe doing the Klipper stuff it is this that was overheating. If you have an e-mail or discord I can share my Mod it's janky atm but I'll make a 3mf at some ponit. This was just to prove the point and get my issue sorted. Qidi came back and advised I need a new adapter plate and connect cable (not sure myself).
26:35 apparently the Q1 Pro is not compatible with cura though as qidi won't give the settings to set it up and say cura is for slower printers but hopefully It will become a supported slicer soon
That's weird because while I prefer Orca (and the slicers it's based on slic3r, prusa, Bambu studio) there should be no reason this should be incompatible with Cura. I know Cura allows you to set speeds, and it's slices into gcode like all the other slicers. I am going to contact Qidi today and find out. If for some reason they don't have a profile set up I will set one up myself to share 👍
@@PrintsLeo3D thank you SO MUCH! I eagerly await this profile because I Love CURA!! Their support email said "there was no way" (paraphrasing) but I'm absolutely sure they're just being lazy...
I haven't had Cura running in a while, so I downloaded the latest version and sure enough there are ZERO Qidi printers available lol so I created a custom printer the dimensions of the Q1 and created a profile. I just want to print with it a few times before I say it's good to go. After that I will though them up on my webstie for downloading. I can also email you the profiles if you like that way too.
So Glad you are back Leo , thanks for the awesome review Im currently kicking myself for buying the TwoTrees SK1 I feel that this one would have suited my needs a wants better, Im having some issues with my SK1 one of which is that it will not show skicer meta data in the klipper front end or screen including no thumbnails now im about to try and sell my sk1 to get this machine instead
I'm happy to be back! I actually have an SK1 in the box right now waiting to open it and get a review on it going. Once I do I will try and mess around with the thumbnail data and see if I can get something working for you! Thanks for watching and I am sorry this printer is so tempting lol
Those Enders can still give these newer printers a run for their money, but out of the box the quality you get nowadays is amazing (especially this Q1 Pro). Glad to hear you're upgrading and if you need any help or just want to take about it let me know! Thanks for watching.
Thanks for a very informative review. I would like your opinion or analysis on how it prints TPU. I currently have a Dremel 3D45 that prints very accurately however, to print 95a TPU I have to print no faster than 20 to 30 mm/s max.
This printed TPU well for me, though I am printing it pretty slow myself (but not 30mm/s slow). I am printing Overture TPU which I believe is 95a and it printed it perfectly. If you want I can start up a new TPU print and get back to you with top speeds and whatnot, if you have a particular model or design style you are printing let me know and I will try and find a model to match.
I know for my initial testing I capped my speed to 100mm/s printing at 240c. I think I expanded on those numbers afterwards though. I'll have a look tomorrow and see if I can find the top end speed.
Thank you for the kind words and support! It takes a lot of behind the scenes work to make these, and a lot of it is time, so I always thank my friends in family as being a large part of what drives these videos!
Leo I love your videos, i do. But i have a question at @22:36 there are four cooler for stepper drivers (the blue ones) and if there is one for X axis, one for Y axis, one for Extruder, I cannot find another two for Z and Z1 axis. Where are these located? (or then where are the rest of axis and extruder drivers)
Great question! The stepper drivers you see on the mainboard are (top to bottom) Z2, Z1, X, and then Y. The stepper driver (and heat sink) for the extruder is located on the printhead itself. It's attached to the breakout board at the rear of the printhead that controls all of its functions. This is a great question and it's super helpful because it reminds me of the sort of details that I can gloss over. I appreciate you asking and I'll try and remember this going forward and be a little more exacting with how I show the two separate boards. Thanks!
It's hard to say in general, because I think both printers have a lot going for them. If the extra cost isn't prohibitive for you then I think you may enjoy the experience the Q1 Pro offers more. The KLP1 one in my opinion is a great printer and uses Klipper firmware great, but there will probably be a little more 'hands-on' work you'll have to do. If you have more specific questions let me know and I'd love to help!
I want to replace my Ender 3v2 with either his printer or the Bambu X1C. There is a big price difference, but buy once, cry once. I am space limited , so I'll boot the Ender to the garbage dumps soon. Bed leveling issues and constant need for maintenance are my biggest complaints about the Ender.
Those Enders are great printers but there is a lot more hands on needed then with the newer coreXY printers on the market. I have the X1C, P1P, and now the Q1 Pro. Depending on your needs the P1P may be a better Bambu option than the X1C. That being said I am partial to Klipper based printers, which is what the Q1 Pro is. I think it's too early for me to give my definitive answer as to what I would buy, but I'd be happy to help you decide as I have both printers. The biggest hurdle for the Q1 is the slicer, as Bambu has made slicing for beginners pretty easy using its MakerWorld app. But if you have an Ender3V2 and are familiar with slicing in general, then I don't think that specific hurdle would apply to you.
To be honest none of that will be easy, but it shouldn't differ all that much from other printers in its class. Replacing the nozzle will require you to remove the hot end, take off the heating cartridge(so you don't break it) and then replace the nozzle. It's not hard, I would say the effort is about what you would expect for any nozzle change. I believe BambuLabs may now have a quick change nozzle (which is ahead of it's class), but I don't know for sure. I have replaced the nozzle on my P1P a few times, and the nozzle on the Q1 takes the same amount of effort. If you're replacing the belts it will never be easy, as you need to disassemble the printhead in order to get access to where the belts terminate. That being said it's no different from any other coreXY printer out there. Hope this helps and if you want more let me know, we can always chat through email and I can share some pics of the printer.
I wanted one until I jeard it's klipper is 2 years old and not easy to update. The live heater is a mute point really as you have to go out of your way to electricute youtself, more effort than electricution from a power outlet.
Steve, to be honest in my opinion I found the old release of Klipper to be a moot point. While this is an older release it still functions just like you want it to, and it does include one of the more important Klipper features 'object_exclusion'. This was a similar issue to some of the last printers Qidi released , but they made efforts to get those printers updated. To be totally honest if that is the only hurdle to buying this printer I think you should reconsider, but I do understand having concerns. If you have anymore questions about this printer please let me know. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I’ve seen some creators saying that Klipper is locked to an older version..which seems weird to me that they would require you to use one specific version of Klipper that’s 2 years old. Have you tried updating to a new version? I’m really interested in this printer and will be a huge upgrade from my ender 3 pro lol
What you heard is absolutely true. I think we are running Klipper V 0.10 which was released in 2021. Why they chose this particular release to use as. Base I don't know, but at the very least this release did integrate object exclusion which allows us to exclude object anr adaptive mesh. The issue, as far as it's known to me, is Qidi's integration through the touchscreen. Now a lot of this is stuff I've learned from the XMax3, which I've had for around a year, but it appears to hold true for the Q1. Qidi is wisely using Klipper to operate their printers but they are also attempting to make the touchscreen more intuitive for 'everyday users'. Thus they have eschewed Klipperscreen and created their own menu system. This is the rift between full Klipper and their version. Due to how they've implemented the touchscreen we cannot just update Klipper (and it's modules) without causing some game breaking errors on the menu side. Flashing last year's models was doable, but the firmware needed to be prepackaged by Qidi and then flashed as a unit to your machine, which took a long time to flash as opposed to a normal update. The other issue , I believe, is that Qidi has put some stop gaps in place to 'protect' the user from just upgrading certain sections of the Klipper environment and not others. That could render the printer useless and make QA and troubleshooting an issue. So overall what does this mean for people thinking about buying this ? It's hard to say, it's sort of a 'thats for you to decide' scenario. With their former machines Qidi was good about attempting to make new releases happen and allow you to update your firmware (albeit through their complete firmware package). If it's one thing I love about Qidi is the customer service I have seen, and received, so I would lean more towards believing they will come through with new releases than not. That all being said, V0.10 is stable and rock solid. Most importantly we get those features I listed earlier which are huge quality of life improvements. Now we Klipper and it's branches grow we won't have immediate access to them, and that's troubling, but it's something I think Qidi would be able to help with. I haven't dug deep enough into the configs yet to determine if I can unmarry the touchscreen from the main board and other mcu, this way you do get the total Klipper experience, but it's something I have been considering. I am going to reach out to my contact and ask what their plans are for future release and how they aim to deal with it. Great question and I hope this answers it somewhag well enough, because I don't know if there's a more complete answer out there. Thanks! P.s. I am not 100% sure on why the Klipper release issue exists, but I believe it is for the reasons listed above. When I get a better answer from Qidi (if I do) I will update this.
@@PrintsLeo3D thank you for your excellent response…I think for $469 I can deal with an older version of Klipper as I’m sure the community will find ways around this down the road if Qidi doesn’t decide to develop it further…
@@YouBetterCallSaul Just to add to Leo's excellent analysis, I have had my Qidi just over a week. The prints off of it are nothing less than outstanding. I've upgraded the machine with octoeverywhere which works perfectly. Qidi even have a guide on their wiki, just don't update Klipper or Moonraker. Qidi have responded to any issues for me within a day too, very impressed.
Thanks for the vid and responding to all the comments so fully, you earned a subscriber here. Do you think it would be possible to design and print a new build plate shroud to accept a Bambu Labs plate? The extra bit of space would be nice but I'm mainly interested because of the much larger range of build plates cheaply available for the Bambu's. This will be my first printer and while I'm waiting for it I have already started trying to learn OrcaSlicer a bit but I can't decide on which CAD to go with, any advice? I'm currently leaning towards OnShape but could be persuaded otherwise. Thanks
Hey Tony thanks for the kind words and the subscription. During the 'Bed' section of the video I remove that shroud that covers the bed, and it opens up the entire build surface. It makes it so you no longer need the bed shroud and you can in fact use Bambu Labs build plates with this ! I show a black build plate around that portion of the video, and that's an aftermarket PEO/PEI build plate I purchased for my P1P. It fits on this and works like a charm! Edit: as for CAD programs I use Fusion360 a lot, but it can have a higher learning curve. To be honest fusion 360 feels geared more towards functional parts. Where Onshape or Blender seem to lend themselves more to design or aesthetic parts (like busts, and cosplay pieces). I don't have a tremendous amount of experience with all of them (outside of Fusion) though, so that's just my 2 cents.
Well you wouldn't need to. If you set up your printer with a build volume of 245x245 it will know where the bounds are. Are you asking if we can actually print on the full 256x256 plates? I don't think we can. I believe the printhead on the Q1 Pro is limited to 245 in the X axis, and it can reach up to 258 in the Y axis but that is mainly to activate the nozzle brush. Removing the shroud allows us to use those BL build plates, they fit and can be printed on, but we will still be limited to the 245x245 printing area that the Q1 offers.
OK, I was just a bit confused between the listed spec and the fact that the build plate says 250x250 on it. I think I'll still give some third party Bambu plates a go at some point just to try the different patterns. Thanks for the help.
Yea , apologies if I was confusing. When I removed the shroud it now lets us use those larger build plates that are easier to find and come in more materials/colors. But we'll still be stuck with the 245x245 size. That being said the PEO bed I've been using has been working great and looks awesome !
I would love to try it out but I don't own any and it's a little (read: a lot) out of my price range. I wish I could start getting a hold of these higher end filaments, and will make some efforts to try and obtain them.
Lol maybe one of those small desk refrigerators. They are on the bulky looking size because of their housing but I don't think this one is all too big. It's probably does dwarf the P1P when out side by side, but that could be optics because it's enclosed. I am going to post some size comparisons to my Instagram this week if you are interested. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Patrick it's funny you said that because I was thinking of working it into my video lol! Thanks for watching and as always I appreciate you dropping a comment! Cheers!
LEO IS BACK! Instant watch.
I've been missing this for so long , I'm happy to get back to it! Of course been a healthy dose of 3DPRINTSOS to keep me satiated until my return lol thank you brother !
Welcome back, good to see you again.
So much love so far and I really appreciate, it means so much! I am so happy to be back and I cannot wait to start working on more videos!! I appreciate you taking the time to welcome me back !!
FYI - I bought this printer on July 10th in the US and my printer did come with the ethernet port, and it did work! WiFi works as well.
Woah really! I had emailed them so long ago about it and they never responded with what their plans for it would be. It seemed like an odd omission , glad it's been added.
I purchased this today then got hit with a bit of buyers remorse from seeing some of the cons other reviewers delved into, namely the belt tensioning, build plate shroud issue you talked about, (other reviewers neglected to mention the shroud was removable), and the weird load/unload procedure that you skipped on?
But after seeing your video i feel more confident in my choice the ability to use the camera in a meaningful way vs just taking Timelapse or live view (as if i could do much while driving somewhere) is really awesome! The bed plate being less finicky without the shroud is nice to hear too, the only worry now is the tensioners but I’m confident there will be tinkering to fix that.
Looks like my second and most expensive printer purchase should be a good one! Thanks!
I think once you get this machine up and running you won't have any buyers remorse. At a base level this printer is easy to setup and will start off giving you great prints with minimal effort. Really the hardest part with these printers is understanding how to use a slicer, but if you have some experience with that alread, it should be a piece of cake.
For the belt tensioners I never had an issue with them. Mine came at a good tension from the factory and I didn't need to make any adjustments. The fact that the tensioners are only held in by a set of 2 top screws (instead of all 4) seems like it could be an issue, but I haven't run into one yet. Tensioning them is supposed to be easy: release the tension, run the printhead by hand, resevjre the tension. Again, I haven't had to go through the process yet but I'm confident we should have some control on the tension of these belts.
The load/unload I was gonna touch on but it's just something that hit the cutting room floor because the video was already long. I sort of mention it in the wishlist section at the end. The reason I didn't stress to have it make the final cut was that this machine is using Klipper and we can just create our own load/unload macros as we see fit. And we should be able to hijack whatever their macro is for load unload through the touchscreen and just supplant it with ours. So that issue should be able to be alleviated client side. If you're interested I could share a load unload macro on using.
Other than that this thing should be solid for you, it sort of just works. I wish there was some form of filtration, but to be honest the best form is to vent the chamber fumes outside which is never going to come stock.
Hope this helps and let me know if you want a load unload macro!
@@PrintsLeo3D a macro for that would be awesome! And again easing my mind thank you! For filtration i actually had it in my mind to print some sort of vent tube to my window, or attachment for something like a like a flexible cold air intake pipe from a car since I’ve got one lying around! I saw other reviews mentioning carbon filter etc and figured just not dealing with the fumes in my apartment at all would probably be better.
Your videos are really good bro, keep up the good work !
Thank you much!! I have a YT shirt coming up where I print and build your Deadpool toy on this printer. I love your models and thanks for watching !!
Welcome back!
Thank you, thank you, happy to be back!! Can't wait to start getting back into the swing with some new modification and upgrade videos. I appreciate the support !
First timing seeing one of your videos, a really nice detailed review, i would love to see a video on how you add octoeverywhere to this machine. Thank you
Well you are in luck! That is going to be my next video and I am hoping to have it out in a few weeks! Thank you much for the kind words, it's what keeps this channel going.
Awesome to see. Thanks to you I have at least the basics of klipper figured out and printing going. Love these videos
Johnathan so happy to hear that! This printer does not ask a lot from you at all either. So you can use it while you are learning how Klipper works, which is such a great feature. If you need any advice while going forward with Klipper please let me know and I'd be happy to help. Thanks!
Welcome back! Good to see you back at it.
Thanks Kev! Hoping to keep this progress going and get another video out in a few weeks. I want to get back to the tutorial and Klipper zone lol
Good to see you again! I love what you do. Your videos helped me so much in the past. Great video once again. I own an X-plus 3 and X-Smart 3. I love the brand. Premium quality!
Louis, thank you! I have to say a large reason I am so positive about this printer is because of the experiences I have had with their other offerings, which it seems you're familiar with yourself. They have been rock solid machines, and the company seems to stand behind what they put out there. Happy to hear you're rocking some of their other printers already and I'm thankful for your comment. Cheers!
removing the bed shroud is a brilliant idea! Is there a pid tune in case it affects the thermals of the hotplate?
Bruce there absolutely is! Because we're using Klipper we get all of it's internal macros available to us, and PID tune is one of them. Whenever you want to PID tune the bed or the extruder you just need to send one of these commands (outside of a print):
PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=heater_bed TARGET=(input_temp)
or
PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=extruder TARGET=(input_temp)
ex. PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=extruder TARGET=210
--
What I usually do is add a quick macro to one of my configs and it makes this command into a button on your printer's home page that you can simply input the temp and then click! It's super simple. This is the macro:
[gcode_macro PIDtuneHOTEND]
gcode:
{% set TEMP = params.TEMP|default(200)|float %}
PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=extruder TARGET={TEMP}
[gcode_macro PIDtuneBED]
gcode:
{% set TEMP = params.TEMP|default(60)|float %}
PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=heater_bed TARGET={TEMP}
----
If you have any questions on how to implement this let me know!
@@PrintsLeo3D Pre ordered the day I saw Angus's video, but Au stock not until May
That's unfortunate but at least you have one coming. I'm sure that will make it all the more special when it arrives! Good luck and have fun printing with it!
Waiting in the UK too!
Probably a good thing though as I've absolutely no idea where I'm going to put it yet.@@brucemcleod5575
Great Review Leo, new here but a vet in 3D print space. Klippered all my machines apart from my ender 3 pro (OG) , So far this Qidi Q1 pro has impressed me no end, what a tool got octoeverywhere on mine working fine, and had to SSH to get the time and date on the MKS board correct. Only issue I have at present is when printing with the heated chamber on for ABS ASA etc, the printer crashes at random mid job, now I'm not sure if it is funky G-code or the MKS controller getting a little hot? My slicer is Orca 2.0 beta and PETG PLA print amazingly well so not sure what's up. I have e-mailed Qidi support so watch this space.
Edit...! Not hard from Qidi yet but not been long so no bother... The issue is the MKSpi is reaching 95oC and thermal shutdown watched it in putty creep up then error out with thermal protection shutdown. The little fan either ain't working or not enough to cool the main board.
Will update once I fix it , and I will fix it!!
Paul it sounds like we are doing the exact same thing to our Q1s! I got OctoEverywhere (OE) on this as well and I was even able to correct the clock issue directly through some prompts on OEs website. Which was easier than when I had to do some add-ons to the XMax3 which also had a clock issue!
I haven't had any overheating issues as of late thankfully. I believe the MKSpi board is the printer head board (but I could be wrong), and I don't believe there's a fan to cool it properly. What is the chamber temperature reaching during these prints ? I would say to remove the back cover and maybe get some more airflow into that board but I'm afraid that may open you up to some other areas (by exposing the board). I would love to hear how the issues presents itself and how you end up tackling it. Keep me in the loop lol? Thanks
@@PrintsLeo3D Hi Leo, fixed it temps didn't breach 84oC max 80 while printing. Chamber I have set to 60 and it stays there no issue. With the back off temps never broke 65 on the mainboard. (Chamber took an age to warm though). Your right on the MKSpi I was just generalising the Qidi mainbaord has this element built in I believe doing the Klipper stuff it is this that was overheating. If you have an e-mail or discord I can share my Mod it's janky atm but I'll make a 3mf at some ponit. This was just to prove the point and get my issue sorted. Qidi came back and advised I need a new adapter plate and connect cable (not sure myself).
Paul, sounds good! Send me an email at printsleo3d@gmail.com can't wait to see it !
26:35 apparently the Q1 Pro is not compatible with cura though as qidi won't give the settings to set it up and say cura is for slower printers but hopefully It will become a supported slicer soon
That's weird because while I prefer Orca (and the slicers it's based on slic3r, prusa, Bambu studio) there should be no reason this should be incompatible with Cura. I know Cura allows you to set speeds, and it's slices into gcode like all the other slicers. I am going to contact Qidi today and find out. If for some reason they don't have a profile set up I will set one up myself to share 👍
@@PrintsLeo3D thank you SO MUCH! I eagerly await this profile because I Love CURA!! Their support email said "there was no way" (paraphrasing) but I'm absolutely sure they're just being lazy...
I haven't had Cura running in a while, so I downloaded the latest version and sure enough there are ZERO Qidi printers available lol so I created a custom printer the dimensions of the Q1 and created a profile. I just want to print with it a few times before I say it's good to go. After that I will though them up on my webstie for downloading. I can also email you the profiles if you like that way too.
So Glad you are back Leo , thanks for the awesome review Im currently kicking myself for buying the TwoTrees SK1 I feel that this one would have suited my needs a wants better, Im having some issues with my SK1 one of which is that it will not show skicer meta data in the klipper front end or screen including no thumbnails now im about to try and sell my sk1 to get this machine instead
I'm happy to be back! I actually have an SK1 in the box right now waiting to open it and get a review on it going. Once I do I will try and mess around with the thumbnail data and see if I can get something working for you! Thanks for watching and I am sorry this printer is so tempting lol
Thanks for all this info. Nice video!
Thanks for watching and for taking the time to comment!
Just placed my order for one with the 5% discount code too. Time to upgrade from my aging original Ender 3...
Those Enders can still give these newer printers a run for their money, but out of the box the quality you get nowadays is amazing (especially this Q1 Pro). Glad to hear you're upgrading and if you need any help or just want to take about it let me know! Thanks for watching.
You said in your next video you would explain how to install octoeverywhere do you mind making that video or putting a short explainer in this video
Hey Garbo! I'm actually filming that video today and it will hopefully be out this weekend!
Leo lives!
Risen from the dead!
Thanks for a very informative review. I would like your opinion or analysis on how it prints TPU. I currently have a Dremel 3D45 that prints very accurately however, to print 95a TPU I have to print no faster than 20 to 30 mm/s max.
This printed TPU well for me, though I am printing it pretty slow myself (but not 30mm/s slow). I am printing Overture TPU which I believe is 95a and it printed it perfectly. If you want I can start up a new TPU print and get back to you with top speeds and whatnot, if you have a particular model or design style you are printing let me know and I will try and find a model to match.
@PrintsLeo3D
I'd love to hear some suggested speeds as I expect to be printing some TPU when my Q1 finally arrives
I know for my initial testing I capped my speed to 100mm/s printing at 240c. I think I expanded on those numbers afterwards though. I'll have a look tomorrow and see if I can find the top end speed.
This printer is so tempting....and i have 2 bed slingers already.
Your the best
Thank you for the kind words and support! It takes a lot of behind the scenes work to make these, and a lot of it is time, so I always thank my friends in family as being a large part of what drives these videos!
Leo I love your videos, i do. But i have a question at @22:36 there are four cooler for stepper drivers (the blue ones)
and if there is one for X axis, one for Y axis, one for Extruder, I cannot find another two for Z and Z1 axis.
Where are these located? (or then where are the rest of axis and extruder drivers)
Great question! The stepper drivers you see on the mainboard are (top to bottom) Z2, Z1, X, and then Y. The stepper driver (and heat sink) for the extruder is located on the printhead itself. It's attached to the breakout board at the rear of the printhead that controls all of its functions. This is a great question and it's super helpful because it reminds me of the sort of details that I can gloss over. I appreciate you asking and I'll try and remember this going forward and be a little more exacting with how I show the two separate boards. Thanks!
@@PrintsLeo3D There is Can bus connection to board on extruder head?
If I remember correctly it's a UART connection but I need to check
I like your videos! I finished watching this one and your video about the Kingroon KLP1, which would you recommend?
It's hard to say in general, because I think both printers have a lot going for them. If the extra cost isn't prohibitive for you then I think you may enjoy the experience the Q1 Pro offers more. The KLP1 one in my opinion is a great printer and uses Klipper firmware great, but there will probably be a little more 'hands-on' work you'll have to do. If you have more specific questions let me know and I'd love to help!
I want to replace my Ender 3v2 with either his printer or the Bambu X1C. There is a big price difference, but buy once, cry once. I am space limited , so I'll boot the Ender to the garbage dumps soon. Bed leveling issues and constant need for maintenance are my biggest complaints about the Ender.
Those Enders are great printers but there is a lot more hands on needed then with the newer coreXY printers on the market. I have the X1C, P1P, and now the Q1 Pro. Depending on your needs the P1P may be a better Bambu option than the X1C. That being said I am partial to Klipper based printers, which is what the Q1 Pro is. I think it's too early for me to give my definitive answer as to what I would buy, but I'd be happy to help you decide as I have both printers. The biggest hurdle for the Q1 is the slicer, as Bambu has made slicing for beginners pretty easy using its MakerWorld app. But if you have an Ender3V2 and are familiar with slicing in general, then I don't think that specific hurdle would apply to you.
How easy and how quick can you swap nozzles? Would you say it's easy to maintain this printer, for instance, if you need to replace the belts?
To be honest none of that will be easy, but it shouldn't differ all that much from other printers in its class.
Replacing the nozzle will require you to remove the hot end, take off the heating cartridge(so you don't break it) and then replace the nozzle. It's not hard, I would say the effort is about what you would expect for any nozzle change. I believe BambuLabs may now have a quick change nozzle (which is ahead of it's class), but I don't know for sure. I have replaced the nozzle on my P1P a few times, and the nozzle on the Q1 takes the same amount of effort.
If you're replacing the belts it will never be easy, as you need to disassemble the printhead in order to get access to where the belts terminate. That being said it's no different from any other coreXY printer out there.
Hope this helps and if you want more let me know, we can always chat through email and I can share some pics of the printer.
I wanted one until I jeard it's klipper is 2 years old and not easy to update. The live heater is a mute point really as you have to go out of your way to electricute youtself, more effort than electricution from a power outlet.
Steve, to be honest in my opinion I found the old release of Klipper to be a moot point. While this is an older release it still functions just like you want it to, and it does include one of the more important Klipper features 'object_exclusion'. This was a similar issue to some of the last printers Qidi released , but they made efforts to get those printers updated.
To be totally honest if that is the only hurdle to buying this printer I think you should reconsider, but I do understand having concerns. If you have anymore questions about this printer please let me know. Thanks for watching and commenting.
If this machine use 2 types of auto bed leveling sensors, How can manual bed leveling with paper ever be required?
How would you compare this to thre Bambu p1s?
I’ve seen some creators saying that Klipper is locked to an older version..which seems weird to me that they would require you to use one specific version of Klipper that’s 2 years old. Have you tried updating to a new version? I’m really interested in this printer and will be a huge upgrade from my ender 3 pro lol
What you heard is absolutely true. I think we are running Klipper V 0.10 which was released in 2021. Why they chose this particular release to use as. Base I don't know, but at the very least this release did integrate object exclusion which allows us to exclude object anr adaptive mesh.
The issue, as far as it's known to me, is Qidi's integration through the touchscreen. Now a lot of this is stuff I've learned from the XMax3, which I've had for around a year, but it appears to hold true for the Q1. Qidi is wisely using Klipper to operate their printers but they are also attempting to make the touchscreen more intuitive for 'everyday users'. Thus they have eschewed Klipperscreen and created their own menu system. This is the rift between full Klipper and their version. Due to how they've implemented the touchscreen we cannot just update Klipper (and it's modules) without causing some game breaking errors on the menu side. Flashing last year's models was doable, but the firmware needed to be prepackaged by Qidi and then flashed as a unit to your machine, which took a long time to flash as opposed to a normal update.
The other issue , I believe, is that Qidi has put some stop gaps in place to 'protect' the user from just upgrading certain sections of the Klipper environment and not others. That could render the printer useless and make QA and troubleshooting an issue.
So overall what does this mean for people thinking about buying this ? It's hard to say, it's sort of a 'thats for you to decide' scenario. With their former machines Qidi was good about attempting to make new releases happen and allow you to update your firmware (albeit through their complete firmware package). If it's one thing I love about Qidi is the customer service I have seen, and received, so I would lean more towards believing they will come through with new releases than not. That all being said, V0.10 is stable and rock solid. Most importantly we get those features I listed earlier which are huge quality of life improvements. Now we Klipper and it's branches grow we won't have immediate access to them, and that's troubling, but it's something I think Qidi would be able to help with. I haven't dug deep enough into the configs yet to determine if I can unmarry the touchscreen from the main board and other mcu, this way you do get the total Klipper experience, but it's something I have been considering. I am going to reach out to my contact and ask what their plans are for future release and how they aim to deal with it.
Great question and I hope this answers it somewhag well enough, because I don't know if there's a more complete answer out there. Thanks!
P.s. I am not 100% sure on why the Klipper release issue exists, but I believe it is for the reasons listed above. When I get a better answer from Qidi (if I do) I will update this.
@@PrintsLeo3D thank you for your excellent response…I think for $469 I can deal with an older version of Klipper as I’m sure the community will find ways around this down the road if Qidi doesn’t decide to develop it further…
@@YouBetterCallSaul Just to add to Leo's excellent analysis, I have had my Qidi just over a week. The prints off of it are nothing less than outstanding. I've upgraded the machine with octoeverywhere which works perfectly. Qidi even have a guide on their wiki, just don't update Klipper or Moonraker. Qidi have responded to any issues for me within a day too, very impressed.
Thanks for the vid and responding to all the comments so fully, you earned a subscriber here.
Do you think it would be possible to design and print a new build plate shroud to accept a Bambu Labs plate?
The extra bit of space would be nice but I'm mainly interested because of the much larger range of build plates cheaply available for the Bambu's.
This will be my first printer and while I'm waiting for it I have already started trying to learn OrcaSlicer a bit but I can't decide on which CAD to go with, any advice?
I'm currently leaning towards OnShape but could be persuaded otherwise.
Thanks
Hey Tony thanks for the kind words and the subscription. During the 'Bed' section of the video I remove that shroud that covers the bed, and it opens up the entire build surface. It makes it so you no longer need the bed shroud and you can in fact use Bambu Labs build plates with this ! I show a black build plate around that portion of the video, and that's an aftermarket PEO/PEI build plate I purchased for my P1P. It fits on this and works like a charm!
Edit: as for CAD programs I use Fusion360 a lot, but it can have a higher learning curve. To be honest fusion 360 feels geared more towards functional parts. Where Onshape or Blender seem to lend themselves more to design or aesthetic parts (like busts, and cosplay pieces). I don't have a tremendous amount of experience with all of them (outside of Fusion) though, so that's just my 2 cents.
Thanks.
How would I convince Orca to use the extra build volume if I remove the shroud?
Well you wouldn't need to. If you set up your printer with a build volume of 245x245 it will know where the bounds are. Are you asking if we can actually print on the full 256x256 plates? I don't think we can. I believe the printhead on the Q1 Pro is limited to 245 in the X axis, and it can reach up to 258 in the Y axis but that is mainly to activate the nozzle brush.
Removing the shroud allows us to use those BL build plates, they fit and can be printed on, but we will still be limited to the 245x245 printing area that the Q1 offers.
OK, I was just a bit confused between the listed spec and the fact that the build plate says 250x250 on it.
I think I'll still give some third party Bambu plates a go at some point just to try the different patterns.
Thanks for the help.
Yea , apologies if I was confusing. When I removed the shroud it now lets us use those larger build plates that are easier to find and come in more materials/colors. But we'll still be stuck with the 245x245 size. That being said the PEO bed I've been using has been working great and looks awesome !
Please print Ultem 1010.
I would love to try it out but I don't own any and it's a little (read: a lot) out of my price range. I wish I could start getting a hold of these higher end filaments, and will make some efforts to try and obtain them.
the website says the hotend goes to 350c?
It does in fact have a max temp of 350c. I never got a chance to print any materials at that temp though as I only have nylon on the higher temp end.
@@PrintsLeo3D lol ok i got confused cause the screen said 250c lol
@hasanmich1504 my apologies, I was probably running a petg or ASA print
2 weeks and mine is toast!
I’m gonna go ahead and keep passing on this company as long as they keep making printers the size of refrigerators.
Lol maybe one of those small desk refrigerators. They are on the bulky looking size because of their housing but I don't think this one is all too big. It's probably does dwarf the P1P when out side by side, but that could be optics because it's enclosed. I am going to post some size comparisons to my Instagram this week if you are interested. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Qidi Qidi Bang Bang
Patrick it's funny you said that because I was thinking of working it into my video lol! Thanks for watching and as always I appreciate you dropping a comment! Cheers!